FR3104033A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising extracts of kigelia and orchid - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a kigelia extract and an orchid extract.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising kigelia and orchid extracts

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular the field of anti-aging cosmetic compositions. In particular, it relates to the combination of a kigelia extract and an orchid extract, to strengthen the extracellular matrix, and/or promote and/or stimulate cutaneous homeostasis, and/or promote the antioxidant defenses of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and/or the lips, and preventing and/or reducing nocturnal facial swelling and/or sleep wrinkles and contributing to the youthfulness of the skin.

STATE OF THE ART

The biological rhythm of our body and our skin differs between day and night: the activity of our organism follows its own 24-hour biological rhythm, called the circadian rhythm. In particular, during the night, specific biological processes are activated in the cells of our body to allow them to assimilate what they need to recover from daily stress.

Nevertheless, if sleep is essential for the rest and recovery of our body, sometimes deleterious phenomena can also take place during the nocturnal phase. In particular, slower nocturnal breathing and less frequent heartbeats (reduced blood flow) can lead to less oxygen transport to the skin. It has thus been demonstrated that the skin tissue undergoes a natural endogenous hypoxia during the night. This nocturnal hypoxia generates redox stress and directly impacts respiration and energy production at the cellular level. Over time, the regenerative capacities of the skin decrease and generate new aging phenomena specific to the night.

To this natural nocturnal hypoxia is added an induced exogenous hypoxia, which results from the pressure constraints exerted on the face by the lying position during sleep. This hypoxia is stronger in areas of skin compression, areas where skin microcirculation is less effective (less oxygen supply). This phenomenon of compression is even more important with age, where support movements last longer, due to the alternation of less frequent movements (Anson et al, Aesthetic Surgery Journal 2016, Vol 36(8) 931- 940).

The lying position also leads to a decrease in the rigidity and elasticity of the skin, favoring the creation of vertical lines on the face. The folds formed, distinct from those of expression which create horizontal lines, can persist and, over time, promote the installation of so-called sleep or pillow wrinkles (Anson et al, Aesthetic Surgery Journal 2016, Vol 36 (8) 931-940). Moreover, the distribution of the interstitial fluids of our body is radically different in the lying position compared to the vertical position, generating internal forces of deformation. On the face, these interstitial fluids increase the volume of the dermis and contribute to the dilation of the face. These deformities can cause perceptions of heaviness and internal tension in the face as well as skin swelling characteristic of facial congestion.

Hypoxic stress, sleep wrinkles, or even poor drainage of interstitial fluids, the phases of sleep and the lying position are not without effects on the aging of the skin. There is therefore a need to find new active ingredients to regulate hypoxic skin stress and promote the detoxification of skin tissue while being able to promote the firmness of skin tissue and thus limit nocturnal facial swelling and the appearance of sleep wrinkles. .

The Applicant has precisely developed a combination of plant extracts, in particular the combination of a kigelia extract and an orchid extract for use in cosmetic compositions, to protect the skin, prevent the leakage of interstitial fluids and help detoxify skin tissue. These compositions provide in particular an anti-ageing, regenerating, firming, soothing and decongestant effect.

A first subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an extract of kigelia, preferably an extract of kigelia fruits of the species Kigelia africana and an orchid extract, preferably an extract of the roots of orchid of the species Gastrodia elata .

Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention and a massage applicator.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising the topical application to said keratin materials of at least one layer of a composition of cosmetic composition according to the invention. Preferably applied in the evening, at bedtime, the composition of the invention advantageously makes it possible to strengthen the extracellular matrix, and/or promote and/or stimulate cutaneous homeostasis, and/or promote the antioxidant defenses of keratin materials, in particular skin and/or lips, and prevent and/or reduce nocturnal facial swelling and/or sleep wrinkles.

The term “keratin materials” according to the invention is understood to mean the skin and/or its appendages, and the lips. In particular, it will be the skin of the face, neck and/or body, and lips.

The "keratinous materials" according to the invention are preferably healthy keratinous materials, that is to say not exhibiting disorders or disorders which would be related to a pathological state ('non-healthy' subjects, suffering from a pathology). Reference will be made indiscriminately to healthy skin and/or lips or to healthy skin and/or lips in the rest of the description.

By “promoting and/or stimulating cutaneous homeostasis” is meant in particular maintaining and/or promoting the functional balance of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, in order to preserve its normal functioning.

By "promoting the antioxidant defenses of keratin materials" is meant in particular promoting the oxygenation of the skin and thus reducing the effects of cutaneous hypoxia, in particular nocturnal hypoxia, promoting cellular respiration and the production of energy in the cellular level.

By "reducing facial swelling" or "reducing nocturnal facial swelling" is meant in particular to reduce the dilation of the face induced by a change in the distribution of interstitial fluids at night, and in particular to reduce the cutaneous swellings characteristic of facial congestion lying down at night.

By "reducing sleep wrinkles" or "reducing pillow wrinkles" is meant in particular to reduce the folds formed on the face by lying down during the night, in particular the vertical lines on the face which may persist and, over time, form so-called sleep or pillow wrinkles.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of plant extracts, in particular the combination of at least one kigelia fruit extract, and at least one orchid root extract, such as combination of active ingredients to strengthen the extracellular matrix, promote and/or stimulate skin homeostasis, and/or promote the antioxidant defenses of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and/or lips, and prevent and/or reduce facial swelling nocturnal and/or sleep wrinkles.

DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

FIG. 1 is a graph representing the intensity of nuclear labeling of NF-kB p65 under stress conditions, under control conditions or in the presence of the extracts of the invention (Intensity of labeling/cell).

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Plant extracts according to the invention

According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a combination of plant extracts, in particular the combination of a kigelia extract and an orchid extract.

By "vegetable extract", we generally mean an isolated substance, obtained by extraction from a plant raw material, and which does not pre-exist in nature as such.

The plant extracts are implemented according to the invention in compositions, in the form of a solution or concentrate, otherwise called "product containing said extract", the solvent of the concentrate possibly being the extraction solvent and/or a solvent additional. The extracts illustrated in the examples of compositions are thus in the form of a solution. Reference will also be made to products or products each containing extracts, some of said products being commercial products.

Those skilled in the art know that plants, or plants in general, can produce many substances of cosmetic interest. Depending on the type of plant or flower used, these substances of interest may be present in different parts or different organs of said plant, in particular in the seeds, roots, bulbs, stems, leaves, petals, flowers, flowering tops, fruits or even even in the whole plant. For the same plant, or for the same flower, the different extracts, in particular the extracts of seeds, roots, bulbs, stems, leaves, petals, flowers, flowering tops, fruits will have compositions of different active molecules and will thus have complementary cosmetic properties. , even synergistic.

In the context of the present invention, said combination is characterized in that each of the plant extracts is obtained from a part of said plant chosen from the group consisting of seeds, roots, bulbs, stems, leaves, petals, flowers , flowering tops, fruits, whole plant, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular mode, each of the plant extracts is obtained from a part of said plant chosen from the group consisting of fruits, roots and mixtures thereof.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to the combination of a kigelia fruit extract and an orchid root extract.

Many processes for extracting plant raw material are known from the prior art and those skilled in the art can easily implement and, if necessary, adapt the known processes for the preparation of the plant extracts of the invention. According to certain embodiments, the plant extracts used in the invention are obtained by means of an eco-extraction process.

By “eco-extraction” we mean an extraction process that reduces energy consumption, but also the use of alternative solvents and renewable plant resources, while guaranteeing a safe and quality product/extract. Eco-extraction favors 6 main principles (Farid Chemat, Dunod, 2010, Eco-Extraction from plants):

• Promote innovation through varietal selection and the use of renewable plant resources,
• Favor alternative solvents called green solvents and mainly those from agro-resources,
• Reduce energy consumption through the assistance of innovative technologies and promote energy recovery,
• Promote the creation of co-products instead of waste to integrate the path of bio or agro-refining,
• Reduce unit operations through technological innovation and promote safe, robust and controlled processes, and
• Favor a product that is not denatured, biodegradable, without contaminants and above all carries “extract” values.

The green solvent will advantageously be used: water.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the kigelia fruit extracts and orchid root extracts used in the compositions of the invention are obtained by means of the extraction methods described below.

These extracts are obtained by extraction using a polar solvent.

The expression “polar solvent” means that the solvent has a Polarity index value which is equal to or greater than a value of 4. The polarity index is a quantity calculated on the basis of thermodynamic quantities (of solubility and change of state) which highlights the more or less polar character of a molecule. For the solvent polarity indices, see the article by L.R. SNYDER: Classification of the solvent properties of common liquids; Journal of Chromatography, 92 (1974), 223-230.

The preferred polar solvents are those consisting of a compound comprising at least one polar covalent bond of the O-H type.

As cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, a solvent or a mixture of solvents chosen from water, C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, glycols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, ethanol, water and glycols are used, preferably a mixture of water and ethanol or a mixture of water and glycols.

Kigelia extract

The present invention uses an extract of kigelia, preferably an extract of kigelia of the species Kigelia africana , which is a fruit tree native to Senegal.

In the context of the present invention, the kigelia plant extract is obtained from a part of said plant chosen from the group consisting of seeds, roots, bulbs, stems, leaves, petals, flowers, flowering tops, fruits and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment, said kigelia extract, Kigelia africana , is a fruit extract with INCI name (International Nomenclature Cosmetics Ingredients): Kigelia africana fruit extract.

Advantageously, the fruit extract or pulp of the kigelia fruit is used for its firming properties of the skin, toning, but also its soothing and restorative properties.

The use of kigelia fruit extract is therefore particularly advantageous for the implementation of the cosmetic processes of the invention, in particular this extract strengthens the extracellular matrix, it thus promotes the firmness of the cutaneous tissue and helps to fight against the appearance of sleep wrinkles.

According to a particular method, said kigelia extract is obtained by extracting kigelia fruits in a mixture of water and butylene glycol.

According to a particular and preferred mode, said kigelia extract, used in the present invention, is obtained by an extraction process comprising at least the steps of:

1. extraction of kigelia fruits in a mixture of water and butylene glycol,
2. clarification, and
3. decontamination.

According to a particular embodiment, use will be made of an extract of Kigelia africana obtained by extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, chosen from water, glycols, and mixtures thereof, in particular water and butylene glycol.

According to a particular embodiment, an extract of Kigelia africana will be used comprising butylene glycol in contents of between 10% and 70%, more preferably between 25% and 50% and more preferably between 35% and 45% relative to the total weight of the extract.

According to another particular embodiment, an extract of Kigelia africana will be used comprising water in contents of between 30% and 90%, more preferably between 45% and 70% and more preferably between 55% and 65% per relative to the total weight of the extract.

According to another particular mode, an extract of Kigelia africana will be used comprising between 0.1% and 5% of active ingredient (dry matter), more preferably between 0.3% and 3% of active ingredient, more preferably between 0.4% and 2% active ingredient and most preferably between 0.5 and 1.5% active ingredient based on the total weight of the extract.

In a preferred embodiment, the extract of Kigelia africana used in the present invention is the product marketed under the name “Kigeline” by the company Greentech. The product "Kigeline" is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI: BUTYLENE GLYCOL and WATER and KIGELIA AFRICANA FRUIT EXTRACT. This product contains in particular butylene glycol in a proportion of 39.5%, water in a proportion of 59.5% and kigelia fruit extract in a proportion of 1%. Advantageously, this product is also rich in antioxidant molecules, it contains in particular 10 to 100 mg/L of flavonoids.

The Kigelia africana extract is present in the compositions of the invention in an effective amount to obtain the desired effect. In particular, said extract of Kigelia africana , preferably the product marketed under the name “Kigeline”, is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10%, in particular from 0.05% to 5%, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight of raw material (product weight) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Orchid extract

The present invention uses an orchid extract, preferably an orchid extract of the species Gastrodia elata , a plant of the orchid family Orchidaceae . This species has 5 variants, including Gastrodia elataf.elata , Gastrodia elataf.glauca , Gastrodia elataf.viridis , Gastrodia elataf.flavida , and Gastrodia elataf.alba . Gastrodia elata is a perennial, parasitic herbaceous plant, the whole body of which is free of chlorophyll.

In the context of the invention, the orchids used to obtain the plant extracts are preferably of French origin.

In the context of the present invention, the orchid plant extract is obtained from a part of said plant chosen from the group consisting of seeds, roots, bulbs, stems, leaves, petals, flowers, flowering tops, fruits and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment, said orchid extract, Gastrodia elata , is extracted from the underground parts of the plant. It is preferably a root extract, with INCI name: Gastrodia elata root extract.

According to a particular mode, said orchid extract is obtained by extraction of the underground parts of the orchid in water and/or organic solvents such as alcohols

According to a particular and preferred mode, said orchid extract, used in the present invention, is obtained by an extraction process comprising at least the steps of:

1. Mixing plant material in a polar solvent, preferably in water and alcohol or in a mixture of water and alcohol,
2. Filtration,
3. Drying, in particular by evaporation,
4. Dissolution of the dry matter obtained in step c) in an organic solvent, in particular in a mixture of water and alcohol or a mixture of water and glycol,
5. Filtration, preferably micro-filtration.

According to certain embodiments, the plant material is previously reduced to fragments of an appropriate size to promote the extraction of the active materials therefrom. The plant material can in particular be crushed, pressed beforehand, or even subjected to microwaves or ultrasound.

According to some embodiments, the orchid roots used for the extraction are previously dried.

According to a particular embodiment, use will be made of an extract of Gastrodia elata obtained by extraction using a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent, chosen from water, alcohols and mixtures thereof, in particular a mixture of water and ethanol .

According to another mode, an extract of Gastrodia elata in a mixture of water and butylene glycol will be used.

According to another particular embodiment, use will be made of an extract of Gastrodia elata comprising water in contents of between 30% and 70%, more preferably between 40% and 60% and more preferably between 45% and 55% per relative to the total weight of the extract.

According to a particular embodiment, use will be made of an extract of Gastrodia elata comprising butylene glycol in contents of between 30% and 70%, more preferably between 40% and 60% and more preferably between 45% and 55% relative to the total weight of the extract.

According to another particular embodiment, use will be made of an extract of Gastrodia elata comprising between 0.05% and 5% of active matter (dry matter), more preferably between 0.1% and 3% of active matter and most preferably between 0.5 and 1.5% of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the extract.

In a preferred embodiment, the extract of Gastrodia elata used in the present invention is the product marketed under the name “Gastrodia elata root extract” by the company Safic Alcan. The product " Gastrodia elata root extract" is referenced under the international nomenclature, INCI: BUTYLENE GLYCOL and WATER and GASTRODIA ELATA ROOT EXTRACT. This product contains in particular butylene glycol in a proportion of 50%, water in a proportion of 49% and extract of orchid roots, in particular of orchid of the species Gastrodia elata , in a proportion of 1% relative to the total weight of the extract.

The Gastrodia elata extract is present in the compositions of the invention in an effective amount to obtain the desired effect. In particular, said Gastrodia elata extract, preferably the product marketed under the name “ Gastrodia elata root extract”, is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10%, in particular from 0.02% to 5%, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight of raw material (product weight) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Compositions and dosage forms according to the invention

In the context of the present invention, the combination of kigelia extract and orchid extract is used for the preparation of compositions, in particular the preparation of cosmetic compositions.

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention is a dermatological composition.

According to certain embodiments, said kigelia extract is an extract of kigelia fruits, preferably an extract of kigelia fruits of the species Kigelia africana .

According to other embodiments, said orchid extract is an extract of orchid flowers and/or leaves and/or stems, preferably an extract of orchid roots of the species Gastrodia elata .

According to certain particular and preferred embodiments, said kigelia extracts and orchid extract are prepared by means of the extraction methods described above.

According to particular and preferred modes, said kigelia extracts and orchid extract are prepared by means of extraction with a polar solvent, in particular chosen from water, alcohols, glycols and mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, the kigelia extract and the orchid extract are preferably used in combination and incorporated into a cosmetic composition or into a dermatological composition suitable for topical application to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and/or or lips and preferably on the skin of the face and/or neck.

According to a first aspect, the present invention thus relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a kigelia extract and an orchid extract, preferably the extracts described above.

By “physiologically acceptable” is meant that the composition is suitable for topical use, in contact with the skin and/or the lips of mammals, more particularly the skin and/or the human lips and preferably the lips.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition, in particular the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

To. an extract of kigelia fruit, preferably of Kigelia africana fruit,

b. an extract of orchid flowers, leaves and stems, preferably an extract of the roots of Gastrodia elata .

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition, in particular the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

To. an extract of kigelia fruits, preferably of Kigelia africana fruits, obtained by extraction using a polar solvent, in particular a mixture of water and glycols, in particular water and butylene glycol,

b. an extract of orchid flowers, leaves and stems, preferably an extract of the roots of Gastrodia elata , obtained by extraction using a polar solvent, in particular a mixture of water and alcohol, in particular water and ethanol.

According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition, in particular the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

• a kigelia fruit extract, in particular the extract marketed under the name “Kigeline” by the company Greentech and with the INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL and WATER and KIGELIA AFRICANA FRUIT EXTRACT, and
• an extract of orchid flowers, leaves and stems, in particular the extract marketed under the name “ Gastrodia elata root extract” by the company Safic Alcan with the INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL and WATER and GASTRODIA ELATA ROOT EXTRACT.

Said kigelia extract and said orchid extract are each present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 95%, in particular from 0.05% to 20%, preferably from 0.08% to 10% and from more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, each of the extracts is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.

According to another particular and preferred mode, the composition, in particular the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

• a kigelia fruit extract, in particular the extract marketed under the name “Kigeline” by the company Greentech and with the INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL and WATER and KIGELIA AFRICANA FRUIT EXTRACT, in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
• an extract of orchid flowers, leaves and stems, in particular the extract marketed under the name " Gastrodia elata root extract" by the company Safic Alcan with the INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL and WATER and GASTRODIA ELATA ROOT EXTRACT, in a content ranging from from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition, in particular the cosmetic composition of the invention is a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips and in particular the skin of the face. and/or neck.

The composition, in particular the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one kigelia extract, at least one orchid extract, and in addition one or more cosmetic excipients acceptable from those known to those skilled in the art with a view to obtaining a composition for topical application.

The invention therefore also relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition in the form of a topical composition for the skin and/or the lips, in particular in the form of a cream, oil-in-water emulsion or -in-oil or multiple emulsion, micro-emulsion, solution, suspension, gel, milk, lotion, serum, mask or lip balm.

In another preferred embodiment, said composition is in the form of a cream, a serum or a micro-emulsion for the skin and/or the lips and in particular the skin of the face and/or the neck.

By "micro-emulsion" is meant in particular an emulsion of the oil-in-water type, the size of the droplets of which is between 20 and 200 nm, preferably 90 to 105 nm.

The composition, in particular the cosmetic composition of the invention, may also additionally comprise at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidant agents, emollient agents, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, perfumes, and their mixtures.

The cosmetic adjuvants advantageously used in the composition of the invention may be present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10%, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight (of raw material) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Depending on the nature of the composition, one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients may also be selected from polymers, surfactants, rheology agents, perfumes, electrolytes, pH adjusters, preservatives, dyes, pearlescent agents, pigments and mixtures thereof.

Depending on the galenic form sought, the person skilled in the art will be able to adapt the nature and the content of the aqueous phase and/or, where appropriate, of the fatty phase.

Aqueous phase

In certain embodiments, the composition, in particular the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

The term “water-soluble solvent” according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure). We can cite in particular:

- lower C1-C5 mono-alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures,

- C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof,

- C2-C32 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof,

- and mixtures thereof.

It may also comprise hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

By way of “hydrophilic gelling agents”, mention may in particular be made of polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers, polysaccharide gelling agents, natural or modified gums, mineral gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

The content of hydrophilic gelling agent(s) in the cosmetic composition of the invention will generally range from 0.01% to 5%, in particular from 0.1% to 4%, preferably from 0.2% to 3% and more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Cosmetic processes and uses

The cosmetic processes and cosmetic uses described below are intended for application to keratin materials, in particular healthy keratin materials, preferably healthy skin and/or lips and in particular the skin of the face and/or neck of subjects 'healthy'.

By “healthy keratin materials” according to the invention is meant keratin materials not exhibiting disorders or disorders that would be part of a pathological state (“non-healthy” subjects, suffering from a pathology).

Another object of the invention therefore relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising the topical application to said keratin materials of at least one layer of a composition as described above.

In the context of the present invention, said cosmetic process is intended to reinforce the extracellular matrix, and/or promote and/or stimulate cutaneous homeostasis, and/or promote the antioxidant defenses of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and/or lips, and prevent and/or reduce nocturnal facial swelling and/or sleep wrinkles.

Thus, in the context of the cosmetic process of the invention, it is particularly advantageous to apply the composition of the invention in the evening at bedtime.

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a combination of plant extracts as defined above, in particular the combination of at least one kigelia fruit extract, and at least one of orchid roots, as a combination of active ingredients for strengthening the extracellular matrix, and/or promoting and/or stimulating cutaneous homeostasis, and/or promoting the antioxidant defenses of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and/or of the lips , and prevent and/or reduce nocturnal facial swelling and/or sleep wrinkles.

These terms are defined earlier in the description.

Another subject relates to a combination of plant extracts as described above, in particular the combination of at least one kigelia fruit extract, and at least one orchid root extract, as a combination of active for use for strengthening the extracellular matrix, and/or promoting and/or stimulating cutaneous homeostasis, and/or promoting the antioxidant defenses of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and/or lips and preventing and/or reducing swelling nocturnal facial and/or sleep wrinkles.

Another object relates to a method for treating keratin materials, preferably the skin and/or the lips, to reinforce the extracellular matrix, and/or promote and/or stimulate cutaneous homeostasis, and/or promote antioxidant defenses keratin materials, in particular from the skin and/or the lips and preventing and/or reducing nocturnal facial swelling and/or sleep wrinkles, comprising the administration by topical route to a person who needs it, of a combination plant extracts as described above, in particular the combination of at least one kigelia fruit extract, and at least one orchid root extract.

According to a particular embodiment, the compositions used in the process according to the invention comprise:

• an extract of kigelia fruits, preferably of Kigelia africana fruits, obtained by extraction using a polar solvent, in particular a mixture of water and glycols, in particular water and butylene glycol,

• an extract of orchid roots, preferably an extract of roots of Gastrodia elata , obtained by extraction using a polar solvent, in particular a mixture of water and alcohol, in particular water and ethanol.

According to a particular embodiment, the compositions used in the process according to the invention comprise:

• a kigelia fruit extract, in particular the extract marketed under the name “Kigeline” by the company Greentech and with the INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL and WATER and KIGELIA AFRICANA FRUIT EXTRACT, and
• an extract of orchid roots, in particular the extract marketed under the name “ Gastrodia elata root extract” by the company Safic Alcan with the INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL and WATER and GASTRODIA ELATA ROOT EXTRACT.

According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention will be applied to healthy subjects, in the evening at bedtime, in particular by means of a massage applicator as described below, in order to prevent nocturnal facial swelling and/ or the appearance of sleep wrinkles.

Applicator

Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition as described above, and a massage applicator.

Indeed, the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the invention are intended for application to the skin, in particular to the areas of the face exhibiting wrinkles and swelling. The application can be done with the finger but it can also advantageously be done using a massage applicator. Said massage applicator allows improved efficiency in connection with better penetration of cosmetic active ingredients but also a mechanical, draining action, linked to the gestures of the applicator.

The massage applicator may in particular comprise at least two massaging heads consisting of one or more identical balls, equipped with a rotation of 180 to 360°, preferably 360°. The massage surface is increased compared to a finger application, the drainage of swollen skin surfaces is more efficient than with a single-ball roll-on. Combined with a draining massage technique, following the channels of the lymphatic system, this applicator promotes better distribution and/or elimination of interstitial fluids and microcirculation, just as it promotes the assimilation of micronutrients in the cosmetic composition of the invention.

The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples.

The % are expressed by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLES

Hypoxia phenomena, whether natural or induced, induce oxidative stress in the skin tissue involved in particular in the acceleration of skin ageing. Recent studies have shown that the production of NF-KB is stimulated under hypoxic conditions (D'Ignazio et al, 2016).

NF-KB (Nuclear Factor-kappa B) is a protein complex that controls DNA transcription, cytokine production and cell survival. It is stored in the cytoplasm in an inactive form complexed with IkB, an NF-kB inhibitory factor. Many inducers such as UV or oxidative stress can cause the dissociation of this complex and the release of NF-kB. This then enters the nucleus where it will bind to DNA sites and act on the transcription (activity) of several genes. Binding of the NF-kB complex to DNA increases with age in many tissues (Salminen and Kaarniranta, 2009) and in normal human keratinocytes (Bernard et al, 2004).

Among the genes regulated by NF-kB, there are in particular those of the metalloproteinases (MMP), which are known to be involved in the degradation of dermal collagen, and can, ultimately , contribute to the leakage of interstitial fluids towards the cutaneous tissue, a phenomenon at the origin of cutaneous swellings at the facial level.

Topical inactivation of NF-kB in an aged animal model has also been shown to result in a shift in gene expression characteristic of aged individuals towards a gene expression profile characteristic of young individuals (Adler et al. , 2007, 2008). Thus, after inhibition of NF-kB in the skin of aged individuals, at least 54% of the "altered" genes (i.e. induced or repressed) during skin aging evolved towards a level of expression comparable to that in young individuals (phenomenon of "rejunevation" or rejuvenation). In other words, NF-kB would be involved in the regulation of 54% of skin genes implicated in skin aging processes.

The aim of the study was to evaluate the activity of the plant extracts of the invention, alone or in combination, on the nuclear expression of NF-kB, a pivotal transcription factor in skin homeostasis, and the phenomena of skin aging.

1. Material and methods

Kigelia and orchid extracts

The snippets used in the examples below are:

• Kigelia fruit extract: “Kigeline” from Greentech and INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL and WATER and KIGELIA AFRICANA FRUIT EXTRACT, and
• Extract of orchid flowers, leaves and stems: “ Gastrodia elata root extract” from Safic Alcan and INCI name: BUTYLENE GLYCOL and WATER and GASTRODIA ELATA ROOT EXTRACT.

These extracts were used at a concentration of 0.5% and 0.375% respectively, in the culture medium.

Cell culture and processing

The study was carried out on Normal Human Keratinocytes (KHN) from an abdominoplasty of a 47-year-old Caucasian woman. The KHNs were inoculated in passage 4 in TPP75 flasks in supplemented Epilife medium.

KHNs were trypsinized to pre-confluency (0.05% Trypsin-EDTA, GIBCO-Invitrogen), and neutralized with serum-containing medium. They were then inoculated at passage 5 in 3 24-well plates (μ-plate 24 well, ibiTreat, Ibidi) at a rate of 80,000 cells per well.

After 24 h of culture, the KHNs were treated with the plant extracts mentioned in paragraph 1.1 of the examples, as a pre-treatment. Plant extracts were prepared in complete epilife medium. For the untreated (NT) control condition, the medium is replaced with fresh medium.

After 24 hours of treatment, the cells were subjected to UVB stress (50 mJ/cm ² ) in PBS, then retreated with the active ingredients for 4 hours.

After 4h, the cells were fixed to be prepared for immunostaining. The treatment was performed in duplicate for each condition.

Immunolabelling

The cells were rinsed twice with PBS (PBS Tablets, Invitrogen GIBCO), then fixed with formalin (Formalin Solution 10% Neutral Buffered, Sigma) for 10 minutes. After 2 rinses with PBS, the cell membranes were permeabilized with a 0.1% PBS/Triton solution (Triton X-100, Sigma). Then they were again rinsed twice with PBS. The cells were covered with a 1% PBS/BSA solution (Albumin, from bovine serum, Sigma), for 30 minutes and at room temperature. The PBS/BSA solution was then replaced with a 1/500 NF-kB primary antibody solution (Santa Cruz SC-8008) diluted in 1% PBS/BSA. Plates were incubated overnight at 4°C. The cells were then rinsed three times with PBS and then covered with a solution of secondary antibody according to the primary antibody to be targeted (see Table 1) and DAPI at 1/500th (4',6'-diamidino-2- phenylindole, dihydrochloride, Invitrogen Molecular Probes) diluted in PBS/BSA 1%. The plates were kept for one hour in the dark and at room temperature. The secondary antibody solution was then aspirated and the cells rinsed twice with PBS and once with distilled water. The cells were then covered with PBS. Plates were stored at 4°C in the dark until image acquisition.

Target name NF-κB p65 Ref Primary Antibody Sc-8008 Santa Cruz Primary Antibody Batch G172 Species Mouse Primary antibody dilution 1/500 Permeabilization + Secondary antibody Molecular Probes
Anti-Mouse Goat 568 Ref Secondary Antibody A11011 Secondary antibody dilution 1/300

Table 1: Information on antibodies used in the study

Image acquisition and analysis

The plates were scanned with the ArrayScan XTi from Thermo Cellomics.

The images were then analyzed using Spot detector image analysis software, a bio-application developed for the arrayscan system.

This program (pipeline) makes it possible to detect the red marking corresponding to the expression of NF-kB p65. The surface of the measurement zone is delimited as being the entire nucleus of each cell.

Cell number was determined by counting nuclei by detection of blue labeling.

For the measurement at the basal state, the expression of NF-kB was quantified by measuring the intensity of nuclear fluorescence of the marker. For the measurement after UV stress, the effect of the ingredients was measured by a ratio of the nuclear intensity / perinuclear intensity of NF-kB, which corresponds to the translocation of the marker.

Statistical analysis

Statistical analysis of the results was done using Microsoft Excel software. This analysis consists of a calculation of the mean, the standard deviation and the confidence interval (α = 0.05) of the ratio of nuclei labeling intensity to the total number of cells per field. The significance of the differences in these ratios observed between the controls and the treated ones is measured by the Student test. Note: the Student test is said to be significant if its value is less than 0.05.

1. Results : Effect of the combination of extracts according to the invention on the nuclear expression of NF-kB

The results in FIG. 1 show that the kigelia fruit extract used by the invention significantly reduces the nuclear expression of NF-kB by -8.4% when it is used alone at a concentration of 0.5%, while the extract of orchid roots at a concentration of 0.375% does not show any effect on NF-kB.

Surprisingly, the combination of kigelia extract and orchid extract (at the same doses) produces a potentiating effect and significantly decreases the nuclear expression of NF-kB by -12.2%.

By inhibiting the nuclear expression of Nf-kB, the combination of extracts of the invention promotes the strengthening of the extracellular matrix and cutaneous homeostasis. It also helps to promote antioxidant defenses.

In conclusion , the combination of extracts of the invention makes it possible to limit the accumulation of interstitial fluids in connection with the congestion of facial skin tissue “nocturnal facial swelling” and to protect the skin against the appearance of sleep wrinkles. This association of extracts thus limits the harmful effects of nocturnal hypoxia and contributes to the youthfulness of the skin. It is therefore particularly suitable for a nocturnal regeneration treatment.

1. Wording examples s

The compositions are prepared according to the conventional methods used in the cosmetics field.

night cream

Ingredients Quantity Gastrodia elata root extract * 0.5% Kigeline * 0 , 5% Triglyceride of caprylic/capric acids 10% Glycerin 7% Cetearyl alcohol 3% Isostearyl hydroxystearate 2% Isotridecyl isononanoate 2% Steareth-21 1% Sodium polyacrylate 1% xanthan gum 0.5% Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Sodium hyaluronate 0.5% Tocopherol acetate (vitamin E) 0.05% Vitamin A Palmitate 0.1% Ascorbyl glucoside (vitamin CG) 2% Water qsp 100%

*as described in Materials and Methods

Applied to the skin of the face, in particular by means of a massage applicator, the night cream improves the firmness of the skin in order to prevent the leakage of interstitial fluids and nocturnal facial swelling.

night serum

Ingredients Quantity Gastrodia elata root extract* 0.375% Kigeline * 1% Oxygeskin RC 3% Alcohol 5% Glycols 8% Isotridecyl isononanoate 4% Squalane 2% Caprylic/capric acid triglyceride 2% Methyl gluceth-20 2% Steareth-2 0.5% Steareth-21 0.5% Carbomer 0.3% Sodium hyaluronate 0.2% xanthan gum 0.1% Sodium hydroxide 0.1% Water Qsp 100%

*as described in Materials and Methods

Applied to the skin of the face, the night serum improves the firmness of the skin, promotes cellular respiration and thus protects the skin against the deleterious effects associated with hypoxia.

Micro-emulsion

Ingredients Quantity Gastrodia elata root extract* 0.5% Kigeline * 0.8% Oxygeskin RC 2% Glycerine 25% Hydrogenated polyisobutene 12 Pentylene glycol 5 Phenoxythanol 0.5 Tocopherol 0.0005 D-alpha tocopheryl acetate 0.2 Water Qsp 100%

*as described in Materials and Methods

The "micro-emulsion" texture contains micro-droplets as fine as skin cells. This texture in the form of a micro-emulsion promotes the bioavailability of active ingredients at the cellular level, allows in-depth assimilation as well as maximum efficiency.

Claims (11)

Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a kigelia extract and an orchid extract. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the said kigelia extract is an extract of kigelia fruits, preferably an extract of kigelia fruits of the species Kigelia africana . Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, characterized in that the said orchid extract is an extract of orchid roots, preferably an extract of orchid roots of the species Gastrodia elata . Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the said kigelia extract and the said orchid extract are each present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 95%, in particular from 0.05 % to 20%, preferably from 0.08% to 10% and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it also comprises at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidant agents, emollient agents, moisturizing agents, anti-ageing agents , perfumes, and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is in the form of a topical composition for the skin and/or the lips, in particular in the form of a cream, oil- in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, micro-emulsion, solution, suspension, gel, milk, lotion, serum, mask or lip balm. Cosmetic set comprising a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 and a massage applicator. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising the topical application to said keratin materials of at least one layer of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 at 6. Cosmetic process according to Claim 8, characterized in that it is intended to reinforce the extracellular matrix, and/or promote and/or stimulate cutaneous homeostasis, and/or promote the antioxidant defenses of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and /or lips, and prevent and/or reduce nocturnal facial swelling and/or sleep wrinkles. Cosmetic process according to Claim 8 or Claim 9, characterized in that the said composition is applied in the evening at bedtime. Cosmetic use of a combination of plant extracts as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, in particular the combination of at least one kigelia fruit extract, and at least one orchid root extract , as a combination of active ingredients to strengthen the extracellular matrix, and/or promote and/or stimulate cutaneous homeostasis, and/or promote the antioxidant defenses of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and/or lips, and to prevent and/ or decrease nocturnal facial swelling and/or sleep wrinkles.