FR3093431A1 - PERFUMING LIQUID SOLUTION, RESTITUTED BY AN AEROSOL IN THE FORM OF A MOISTURIZING AND REMANENT FOAM - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a liquid perfuming composition capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam. The invention is characterized in that it comprises: - at least one odorous concentrate; - at least two emulsifiers; - at least one foaming agent; - at least one thickening agent comprising a mixture of sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, alkyl glucosides, sorbitan esters and an oil of polyolefin type; - at least one emollient; - some water ; - an alcohol; and - a liquefied propellant gas. The invention also relates to a process for preparing a composition according to the invention and to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in the form of a mousse for perfuming the skin, the scalp and / or integuments and for moisturizing. the skin and strengthen the barrier function. Fig. 1

Description

PERFUME MOUSSE AND ITS USES

The present invention relates in particular to the field of cosmetics. It relates more particularly to a novel liquid perfuming composition capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam, and its use, for example in cosmetics and in perfumery.

Perfume commonly refers to an odorous product that is used to perfume oneself.

A perfume is generally composed of three distinct elements, namely an odorous concentrate, a carrier and a fixer.

The selected support will define the category of the perfume. There are mainly three of them, namely oily perfumes, solid perfumes and alcoholic perfumes.

So-called alcoholic perfumes are liquid perfumes whose support is alcohol. It is commonly ethyl alcohol because it is a neutral substance which will therefore not alter the scents of the fragrant concentrate. This formula is the most used in the perfumery industry.

Ethyl alcohol is used to dilute the fragrant concentrate. In addition, being very volatile, alcohol will evaporate quickly to leave room for odorous substances on the skin. It is also the alcohol that is responsible for the feeling of freshness felt on the skin after having sprayed the alcoholic perfume. Finally, alcohol is important in that it allows the perfume to keep well over time.

Depending on the alcohol concentration, it will more particularly be a perfume, an eau de parfum, an eau de toilette or an eau fraîche.

With regard to perfumes, also called extracts or essences, the fragrant concentrate between 15% and 30% in their composition. It is the most concentrated formula, and therefore the one whose scents last the longest, commonly up to eight hours.

Then comes the eau de parfum, with a concentration of 10% to 15% of fragrant concentrate. Its hold often extends for up to six hours.

Third form of concentration, eau de toilette which includes 4% to 10% of fragrant concentrate. Its scent lasts for up to three hours.

Eau de Cologne often includes 2% to 4% of fragrant concentrate.

Finally, fresh water has a low concentration of fragrant matter, at most 2%. Its hold on the skin is limited to one or two hour(s).

Thus, it is generally considered that the duration of wear of a perfuming composition but also its olfactory power will depend on the quantity of the odorous concentrate.

We therefore know the perfume in particular liquid (alcoholic) whose support is commonly at least 70% ethyl alcohol.

It appears that perfume as an alcoholic liquid, dries the skin, as well as eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de Cologne and eau fraîche. In addition, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne and eau fraîche do not offer sufficient persistence.

Perfumes also often have the disadvantage of containing a large number of allergens.

Other perfuming cosmetics are also known.

For example, perfumed body milks are known, the main purpose of which is a cosmetic or even medical virtue. They can be moisturizing or nourishing, for example, and have an aqueous base (water in oil). The perfume or fragrant concentrate in these body milks only serves to bring a slight odor to the composition, the primary virtue of body milks not being to perfume.

There are also many cosmetic products in the form of aerosol foam such as shaving foam, depilatory foam, tanning foam, foam sunscreen, etc.

Usually, the foams used in cosmetics contain less than 1% of fragrant concentrate.

Also, these foams are usually made from an emulsion and a liquefied or compressed gas.

The emulsion consists of two immiscible liquids. The dispersed phase is also called the internal or discontinuous phase, and the dispersing phase can be called the external or continuous phase.

The emulsions in which the dispersed phase is lipophilic (example: vegetable or mineral oil) and the hydrophilic dispersing phase (example: water) are said to be of the aqueous type (O/W); the emulsions in which the dispersed phase is hydrophilic and the dispersing phase lipophilic are said to be of the oily type (W/O).

These emulsions are often subject to flocculation. The droplets of the dispersed phase then form aggregates and each of these aggregates still retains its identity; there is only creaming or sedimentation, so homogeneity can be easily restored by simple agitation to redistribute the particles evenly.

However, there is a risk of coalescence (complete and irreversible rupture of the emulsion).

Finally, patent document CH706323 is more particularly known, which discloses a liquid cosmetic preparation for aerosol which, mixed with a propellant gas, makes it possible to obtain a foam with a view to its application to the body. This preparation contains in particular from 2% to 7% of perfume (fragrant concentrate) and from 35% to 60% of perfumery alcohol of vegetable origin.

The foam thus obtained contains a lot of alcohol, which does not allow it to be sufficiently differentiated from an alcoholic liquid perfume; such an alcohol content contributes to the rapid evaporation of the smell of the foam after application and therefore lacks persistence.

In addition, it liquefies and is not resistant to solvents such as isopropyl myristate.

It is also noted that at ambient temperature of more than 30°C, the foam liquefies. It therefore comes out of the bottle in the form of a milky liquid and not in the form of a foam.

Technical problem

In general, it remains necessary to seek a new perfuming composition that can be used in cosmetics and perfumery which has good persistence while providing moisturizing properties, rather than drying out the skin as with traditional alcoholic perfumes.

Considering the foregoing, a problem which the invention proposes to solve is to develop a new liquid perfuming composition capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam, the hold, persistence and moisturizing power of which are improved while being formulated without disruptive endocrine and allergen-free.

Technical solution

The solution to this problem has as its first object a liquid perfuming composition capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam, characterized in that it comprises: - at least one fragrant concentrate; - at least two emulsifiers chosen from nonionic surfactants chosen from alkyl glucosides, fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms and polysorbates, taken alone or as a mixture, at a concentration of between 4.5% and 8% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w); - at least one foaming agent chosen from anionic or nonionic surfactants having a hydrophilic-lipophilic ratio (HLB) greater than or equal to 12, at a concentration of between 3.5% and 7% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w); - at least one thickening agent comprising a mixture of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, alkyl glucosides, sorbitan esters and a polyolefin-type oil, at a concentration of between 0.1% and 1.5% by weight of the total weight composition (w/w); - at least one emollient, at a concentration of between 2% and 6% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w); - water at a concentration of at least 45% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w); - an alcohol at a concentration less than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w); - a moisturizing agent at a concentration of between 0 and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w); and - a liquefied propellant gas chosen from butane, propane or isobutane taken alone or in combination, at a concentration of between 5% and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w).

In addition, the second object of the invention is a process for preparing a composition according to the invention, characterized in that it comprises the following steps according to which:
- water is mixed, a thickening agent comprising a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, an alkyl glucoside, a sorbitan ester and a polyolefin type oil, an acyl glutamic acid salt and a moisturizing agent to obtain a aqueous solution (phase 1) which is heated to a temperature between 70° C. and 85° C.;
- an emollient is mixed with a first emulsifier comprising another alkyl glucoside and a fatty alcohol having 8 to 26 carbon atoms to obtain a waxy solution (phase 2) which is heated to a temperature between 70°C and 85 °C;
- when the two phases 1 and 2 are at a temperature between 70° C. and 85° C., phase 2 is poured into phase 1 to obtain a mixture (phase 3) which is left to cool with stirring;
- when the mixture (phase 3) has reached a temperature between 30°C and 40°C, an alcohol, an odorant concentrate, another polysorbate emulsifier and possibly a softener, a preservative and a pH stabilizer are added to obtain after addition of liquefied propellant gas to said liquid perfuming composition capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam.

Finally, the invention has as third and fourth objects the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention in the form of a mousse for respectively perfuming the skin, the scalp and/or the superficial body growths and for moisturizing the skin and reinforcing the function fence.

Benefits provided

With a concentration of fragrant concentrate equivalent to that of eau de cologne, an improved persistence is obtained at least equivalent to that of an eau de parfum with the composition according to the invention.

Compared to cosmetic foams, the concentration of fragrant concentrate can be increased without destabilizing the foam in order to obtain a persistence greater than 4 hours .

Instead of an emulsion, a continuous solution is used, obtained by adding specific emulsifiers, a foaming agent and a thickening agent and which therefore does not undergo destabilization.

The composition according to the invention is formulated without endocrine disruptors and without allergens, with an alcohol concentration less than or equal to 5%.

Dyes and other aesthetic elements such as glitter can advantageously be added to the composition according to the invention.

Active principles making it possible to combine a cosmetic virtue, for example for cleaning the skin, with the perfuming virtue can also be advantageously added to the composition according to the invention.

In this description, unless otherwise specified, it is understood that when an interval is given, it includes the upper and lower limits of said interval.

The invention and the advantages resulting therefrom will be better understood on reading the description and the non-limiting embodiments which follow, illustrated with regard to the appended drawings in which:

Fig.1

represents a curved graph of the average intensity (expressed as a percentage) of the smell of a perfuming foam according to the invention and of an eau de toilette comprising 4% of the same fragrant compound "FLOWER FEVER®" during time up to 8 hours after application;

Fig.2

represents a curved graph of the average intensity (expressed as a percentage) of the smell of a perfuming mousse according to the invention and of an eau de toilette comprising 4% of the same fragrant compound "MADE IN THE SHADE®" over time up to 8 hours after application;

Fig.3

represents a curved graph of the average intensity (expressed as a percentage) of the smell of a perfuming mousse according to the invention and of an eau de toilette comprising 4% of the same "RAZZ MY BERRIES®" fragrant compound in course of time up to 8 hours after application;

Fig.4

represents a curved graph of the average intensity (expressed as a percentage) of the smell of a perfuming foam according to the invention and of an eau de toilette comprising 4% of the same "PAPER SHAKER®" fragrant compound during time up to 8 hours after application;

Fig.5

represents a curved graph of the average intensity (expressed as a percentage) of the smell of a perfuming foam according to the invention and of an eau de toilette comprising 4% of the same "WOODY GROOVY®" fragrant compound during time up to 8 hours after application;

Fig.6

represents a curved graph of the average intensity (expressed as a percentage) of the smell of a perfuming foam according to the invention and of an eau de toilette comprising 4% of the same "SWINGING SKIRT®" fragrant compound during time up to 8 hours after application.

The invention relates to a liquid perfuming composition capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam.

The composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one fragrant concentrate;
- at least two emulsifiers chosen from nonionic surfactants chosen from alkyl glucosides, fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms and polysorbates, taken alone or as a mixture, at a concentration of between 4.5% and 8% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w);
- at least one foaming agent chosen from anionic or nonionic surfactants having a hydrophilic-lipophilic ratio (HLB) greater than or equal to 12, at a concentration of between 3.5% and 7% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w);
- at least one thickening agent comprising a mixture of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, alkyl glucosides, sorbitan esters and a polyolefin-type oil, at a concentration of between 0.1% and 1.5% by weight of the total weight composition (w/w);
- at least one emollient, at a concentration of between 2% and 6% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w);
- water at a concentration of at least 45% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w);
- an alcohol at a concentration less than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w);
- a moisturizing agent at a concentration of between 0 and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w); and
- a liquefied propellant gas chosen from butane, propane or isobutane taken alone or in combination, at a concentration of between 5% and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w).

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fragrant concentrate.

By fragrant concentrate according to the invention is meant a natural plant extract such as an essence, essential oil, gum, resin and absolute extracted from a plant, for example a plant or an algae, taken alone or in a mixture; we also mean a synthetic odorant concentrate, i.e. a compound chemically identical to a natural odorant compound and obtained by synthesis, taken alone or in a mixture with other natural or synthetic odorant compounds. It will give the odor to the composition according to the invention.

The natural odorant concentrates used according to the invention are obtained by conventional processes, for example steam distillation for an essential oil.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a concentration of less than or equal to 5% of odorant concentrate by weight of the total weight of the composition, more preferably a concentration of between 2.5 and 5%, for example 3%, 3.33% , 3.5%, 4% or 4.5%.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least two emulsifiers chosen from nonionic surfactants chosen from alkyl glucosides, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms and polysorbates, taken alone or as a mixture, at a concentration of between 4 .5% and 8% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w), for example 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7% or 7.5%.

By taken alone, it is meant that the at least two emulsifiers are chosen within the same category of nonionic surfactant according to the invention; by taken as a mixture, it is meant that the at least two emulsifiers are chosen from at least two different categories of nonionic surfactants, advantageously, three categories, at least two surfactants also being able to be taken within the same category.

The at least two, advantageously three, nonionic surfactants used as emulsifiers in the composition according to the invention are preferably a mixture of alkyl glucosides, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms and polysorbates.

The alkyl glucosides, the fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms and the polysorbates are preferably taken as a mixture, more preferably in concentrations respectively of:
- 1.5% to 2.5% for alkyl glucosides, for example 1.7%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.2% or 2.4%;
- 1.5% to 2.5% for fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for example 1.7%, 1.9%, 2%, 2.2% or 2.4%; and
- 1.5% to 3% for polysorbates, for example 2%, or 2.5%.

The alkyl glucosides can preferably be chosen from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, C10-16 alkyl glucoside, C12-18 alkyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, C20-22 glucoside cetearyl glucoside, even more preferably caprylyl/capryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, taken alone or as a mixture.

According to the invention, cetearyl glucoside is more particularly used as an emulsifier while caprylyl/capryl glucoside is also used as a mixture as a thickening agent.

The fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms can be preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2 -undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, preferably cetearyl alcohol.

Polysorbates are esters of fatty acids and of polyoxyethylene sorbitan (ethoxylated derivative of sorbitan) which can be preferentially chosen from polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (polysorbate 80), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate (polysorbate 40), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (polysorbate 60), polyoxyethylene sorbitan tristearate (polysorbate 65), more preferably polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (polysorbate 80), even more preferably polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), taken alone or in a mixture.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one foaming agent chosen from anionic or nonionic surfactants having a hydrophilic-lipophilic ratio (HLB) greater than or equal to 12, at a concentration of between 3.5% and 7% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w), preferably at least 4.5%, for example 5%, 5.5%, 6% or 6.5 %.

The surfactant having a hydrophilic-lipophilic ratio (HLB) greater than or equal to 12 means a surfactant having at 25°C an HLB balance within the meaning of GRIFFIN greater than or equal to 12. The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J .Soci. Cosm. Chem. 1954 20 (volume 5), p.249-256. Reference may be made to the document Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, volume 22, p.333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions of surfactants, in particular p.347-377 of this reference, for nonionic surfactants. The surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 12 can be ionic, nonionic or of mixed ionic and nonionic character.

The anionic or nonionic surfactant having a hydrophilic-lipophilic ratio (HLB) greater than or equal to 12 is preferably chosen from a salt and/or derivative of glutamic acid, more preferably salts of acyl glutamic acid.

The glutamic acid salt and/or derivative may for example be chosen from acyl glutamic acids, their salts (glutamates) and mixtures thereof, preferably from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example lauroyl glutamic, myristoyl glutamic, palmitoyl glutamic, stearoyl glutamic, behenoyl glutamic, olivoyl glutamic, cocoyl glutamic acids and alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or ammonium salts of said acids. Mention may in particular be made of compounds bearing the INCI name lauroyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof, preferably disodium olivoyl glutamate or sodium olivoyl glutamate, taken alone or in mixture.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one thickening agent comprising a mixture of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, alkyl glucosides, sorbitan esters and a polyolefin-type oil, at a concentration of between 0.1% and 1.5 % by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w).

The sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer is preferably used as a mixture as a thickening agent.

Among the alkyl glucosides, caprylyl/capryl glucoside is preferably used as a mixture as a thickening agent.

Sorbitan esters are derivatives of sorbitan by esterification of one or more of its alcohol or phenol functions which can be preferentially chosen from sorbitan monostearate (Span 60), sorbitan tristearate (Span 65), sorbitan monolaurate (Span 20), sorbitan monooleate (Span 80), sorbitan monopalmitate (Span 40), sorbitan trioleate (Span 85), more preferably sorbitan monooleate (Span 80), sorbitan trioleate (Span 85), even more preferably sorbitan monooleate sorbitan (Span 80), taken alone or in a mixture.

Sorbitan monooleate (Span 80) is preferably used as a mixture as a thickening agent.

The oil of the polyolefin type preferably means poly-α-olefins and in particular of the polybutene type, hydrogenated or not, and more preferably polyisobutene, hydrogenated or not, even more preferably not hydrogenated.

Unhydrogenated polyisobutene is preferably used as the vehicle for the thickening agent.

The sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, alkyl glucoside, sorbitan ester and polyolefin-type oil copolymers are taken as a mixture, preferably in concentrations by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w) respectively of:
- 0.1% to 1% for sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, for example 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8% or 0.9%;
- 0.01% and 0.1% for alkyl glucosides, for example 0.02%, 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08 %, or 0.09%;
- 0.001% to 0.01% for sorbitan esters, for example 0.002%, 0.004%, 0.006% or 0.008%; and
- 0.01% and 0.1% for the polyolefin type oil, for example 0.025%, 0.035%, 0.045%, 0.055%, 0.065%, 0.075%, 0.085%, or 0.095%.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one emollient, at a concentration of between 2% and 6% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w), for example 2.5%, 3%, 3.5% , 4%, 4.5%, 5%, or 5.5%.

The use of one or more emollients allows penetration into the upper layers of the epidermis of the composition according to the invention and improves the adhesion of the odorous concentrate to the skin and therefore its persistence.

The emollient is preferably chosen from monoesters of carboxylic acids and in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic acids, linear or branched C1-C26 or esters of aromatic acids, and saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alcohols, linear or branched C1-C26, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 10, taken alone or as a mixture.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate, octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, cetyl lactate, C12-C15 alkyl lactate, C12-C13 alkyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate, (iso)stearyl octanoate, isocetyl octanoate, octanoate octyl, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, isocetyl isostearate, isocetyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl oleate, l isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl palmitate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, myristyl stearate, octyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl isononate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates d alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2 -hexyldecyl, taken alone or as a mixture, preferably C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, C12-C15 alkyl lactate and/or C12-C13 alkyl lactate, even more preferably alkyl benzoate C12-C15 and C12-C13 alkyl lactate.

The composition according to the invention comprises water at a concentration of at least 45% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w), preferably between 50% and 65%, for example 52%, 55%, 58%, 60%, or 62%.

The water is preferably demineralised, distilled or reverse osmosis water, more preferably demineralised water.

The composition according to the invention comprises an alcohol at a concentration less than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w).

The low concentration of alcohol used according to the invention, or even advantageously the absence of alcohol, allows the non-volatility of the liquid perfuming composition according to the invention capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam on leaving the aerosol.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an alcohol at a concentration of less than 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w), more preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition ( w/w), for example 3%.

The alcohol is a perfumery alcohol, advantageously of vegetable origin, more preferably chosen from ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, butyl alcohol, sec-butyl alcohol, isobutyl alcohol, tert- butyl alcohol, pentanol, benzyl alcohol, even more preferably ethanol of plant origin.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise alcohol.

The composition according to the invention comprises a moisturizing agent at a concentration of between 0 and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w).

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the moisturizing agent at a concentration of between 5% and 12% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w), for example 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, or 11%.

The moisturizing agent is preferably chosen from an extract of aloe vera in powder or juice form, fruit and vegetable extracts such as cucumber, vegetable collagen, glycerin, sorbitol, urea or hyaluronic acid.

The composition according to the invention also comprises a liquefied propellant gas chosen from butane, propane or isobutane taken alone or in combination, at a concentration of between 5% and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w), for example 6%, 7%, 8%, or 9%.

The composition according to the invention is formulated in a form suitable for being applied topically to the skin, the scalp and/or the superficial body growths and is presented, for example, in the form of an aerosol packaged in an aluminum can or bottle, protected glass or glass unprotected.

By topical application, is meant the fact of applying or spreading the composition according to the invention, on the surface of the skin, of a mucous membrane or of the appendages without risk of discomfort during its application, in particular for a use in contact with human and animal cells, in particular epidermal cells, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit/risk ratio.

The skin refers to the skin of the face, in particular the outline of the eyes and the mouth, the nose, the forehead, the neck, the hands, but also the skin of the whole body.

Appendages designate substances naturally present in the human organism or the animal organism rich in keratin, and more particularly the hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails.

The case or bottle is for example expanded or assembled by crimping.

Checks during packaging are carried out according to the legislation on aerosols.

A foam diffuser is advantageously installed and protected by a protective cover.

The liquefied propellant gas is dosed through a valve. The propellant gas pressure varies depending on the container used. It is for example 2.5 bars to 3.2 bars at 20° C. for the aluminum casing and less than or equal to 1.5 bars at 20° C. for the protected glass or unprotected glass bottles.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the propellant gas for the aluminum case or bottle version is composed of N-butane, propane and isobutane, preferably in concentrations respectively of 5.5% (w/w) for butane, 2% (w/w) for propane, and 0.5% (w/w) for isobutane.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the propellant gas for the case or bottle version made of glass or protected glass is N-butane.

The composition according to the invention further comprises one or more agent(s) chosen from a softener, a preservative, a pH stabilizer, a colorant, glitter and an active principle.

In all cases, the person skilled in the art will ensure that the agents and their proportions are chosen in such a way as not to harm the desired advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention. These agents can, for example, correspond to 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

For example, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises a softener at a concentration of between 2% and 8% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w), a preservative at a concentration of between 0.5% and 2 % by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w) and a pH stabilizer at a concentration of between 0.01% and 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w).

By active ingredient that can be added to the composition according to the invention, by way of non-limiting example, mention may be made of a bleaching agent, an anti-acne or even an anti-pollutant.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition is formulated without endocrine disruptor and without allergen.

According to another object, by way of non-limiting example of a method of preparing a composition according to the invention, the following steps are carried out according to which:
- water is mixed, a thickening agent comprising a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, an alkyl glucoside, a sorbitan ester and a polyolefin-type oil, an acyl glutamic acid salt, and a moisturizing agent to obtain an aqueous solution (phase 1) which is heated to a temperature between 70° C. and 85° C.;
- an emollient is mixed with a first emulsifier comprising another alkyl glucoside and a fatty alcohol having 8 to 26 carbon atoms to obtain a waxy solution (phase 2) which is heated to a temperature between 70°C and 85 °C;
- when the two phases 1 and 2 are at a temperature between 70° C. and 85° C., phase 2 is poured into phase 1 to obtain a mixture (phase 3) which is left to cool with stirring;
- when the mixture (phase 3) has reached a temperature between 30°C and 40°C, an alcohol, an odorant concentrate, another polysorbate emulsifier and possibly a softener, a preservative and a pH stabilizer are added to obtain after addition of liquefied propellant gas to said liquid perfuming composition capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam.

The liquefied propellant gas is added to the composition according to the invention at the end of the preparation process:
- the mixture (phase 3) thus prepared is poured into a case or bottle;
- A valve is crimped on the case or bottle;
- the liquefied propellant gas is introduced through the valve;
- the valve is then purged with nitrogen; and
- a diffuser and a cap are finally placed on the valve to allow the diffusion by pressure of the liquid perfuming composition according to the invention capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the liquid perfuming composition capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam is preferably obtained by carrying out the following steps according to which:
- the water is mixed, the thickening agent comprising a mixture of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, sorbitan monooleate and polyisobutene, sodium olivoyl glutamate and a moisturizing agent, for example a powder or a juice aloe vera ( Aloe Barbadensis ) and advantageously a softener, for example sorbitol, to obtain an aqueous solution (phase 1) which is heated to a temperature between 70° C. and 85° C., preferably 80° C.;
- the C12-C15 alkyl benzoate and the C12-C13 alkyl lactate are mixed with the cetearyl glucoside and the cetearyl alcohol to obtain a waxy solution (phase 2) which is heated to a temperature between 70° C. and 85° C., preferably 80° C.;
- when the two phases 1 and 2 are at a temperature between 70°C and 85°C, preferably at 80°C, phase 2 is poured into phase 1 to obtain a mixture (phase 3) which is left cool with stirring;
- when the mixture (phase 3) has reached a temperature between 30°C and 40°C, preferably 35°C, ethanol of vegetable origin, an odorant concentrate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate and advantageously a preservative, for example based on propanediol, undecilic alcohol, tocopherol and phenethyl alcohol, and a pH stabilizer, for example citric acid, to obtain after addition of the liquefied propellant gas said liquid perfuming composition capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam .

According to another object of the invention, a slow-breaking perfuming foam is obtained from a composition according to the invention capable of being prepared according to the process described above.

By slow break foam we mean a foam which, once out of the case or bottle, does not lose more than 50% of its volume in the space of 15 minutes.

The foam according to the invention is obtained by dispersing a gas in a volume of liquid causing the appearance of bubbles.

The foam according to the invention is characterized by the appearance of bubbles whose size varies between 50 μm and 5 mm.

The addition of a surfactant in each of the phases during the preparation of the composition according to the invention makes it possible to increase the stability of the foam thus obtained. The surfactants used will adsorb at the gas/liquid interfaces. The structure of a bubble thus formed results from a double internal and external adsorption of the surfactant on the film of water constituting the lamellar wall of the bubble.

The choice of surfactants according to the invention and their respective concentrations, up to the critical micellar concentration, make it possible to impregnate the interface of the bubbles to stop the gas flow and improve the resistance to thermal and mechanical fluctuations. Thus, the films resist coalescence as well as ripening and the foam obtained is more stable.

According to another subject of the invention, the composition according to the invention is used in cosmetics, in the form of a mousse to perfume the skin, the scalp and/or the appendages.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, insofar as the composition comprises a moisturizing agent, it is also used in the form of a mousse to perfume the skin, the scalp and/or the appendages and to improve the hydration of the skin and strengthen the barrier function.

Examples

The present invention will now be illustrated by means of the following examples:

Example 1:

Phase Mixed INCI names (Commodity) % (w/w) 1 Demineralized Water 47 – 56 1 Plant-based moisturizer 9 – 11 4 Butane/Propane/Isobutane 6 - 10 1 Thickening agent 0.5 - 1 2-3 At least 2 nonionic surfactants 5 – 7 1 softener 4.2 – 6 1 Anionic or nonionic surfactant having a hydrophilic-lipophilic ratio (HLB) greater than or equal to 12 3.7 – 5.2 3 Fragrant concentrate 0.5 – 5 2 Emollient 2.7 – 4.2 3 Alcohol 0 – 4 3 Conservative 0.8 – 1.2 3 pH stabilizer 0.04 – 0.07 3 Dye 0 – 0.01 3 Sparkling 0 – 1

The composition of Example 1 according to the invention is prepared according to the method described above.

Example 2:

Phase Mixed INCI names (Commodity) % (w/w) 1 Demineralized Water 53,718 1 Plant-based moisturizer: Aloe Barbadensis leaf juice 10,093 4 Butane 5.5%/Propane 2%/Isobutane 0.5% 8 1 Thickener: Sodium acrylate/Sodium Acryloildimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside and Sorbitan Oleate 0.5 - 1 2 Emulsifier: Cetearyl Glucoside and Cetearyl Alcohol 3.5 - 5 3 Emulsifier: polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate 1.5 - 3 1 Softener: sorbitol 5 1 Sodium olivoyl glutamate 5 3 Fragrant concentrate 4 2 Emollient: C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE and C12-13 ALKYL LACTATE 3,519 3 Ethanol 3,056 3 Preservative: propanediol, undecyl alcohol, tocopherol and phenethyl alcohol 0.925 3 pH stabilizer: citric acid 0.05 3 Dye 0.006 3 Sparkling 0

The composition of Example 2 according to the invention is prepared according to the process described above.

Example 3:

Phase INCI names Trade name % (w/w) 1 AQUA Demineralized Water 53,718 1 Aloe Barbadensis LEAF JUICE Aloe Vera 10,093 4 BUTANE 5.5%/PROPANE 2%/ISOBUTANE 0.5% MIXTURE 3.2™ 8 1 SODIUM ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMERPOLYISOBUTENECAPRYLYL/CAPRYL GLUCOSIDEAQUASORBITAN OLEATE SIMULGEL EPG™ 0.704 2 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDECETEARYL ALCOHOL EMULGADE PL 68/50™ 3,888 3 POLYSORBATE 20 EMULGIN SML 20™ 2,037 1 SORBITOL (70%) AQUA (30%) SORBITOL SYRUP™ 5 1 SODIUM OLIVOYL GLUTAMATEAQUASODIUM CHLORIDE OLIVOYL GLUTAMATE™ 5 3 PERFUME EXOTIC TROPIC™ 4.00038 2 C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE CETIOL AB™ 2.5 2 C12-13 ALKYL LACTATE COSMACOL ELI™ 1,019 3 ALCOHOL DENAT. Denatured ethanol 3,056 3 PROPANEDIOLUNDECYL ALCOHOLTOCOPHEROLPHENETHYL ALCOHOL SENSIVA PA 30™ 0.925 3 CITRIC ACID Citric acid monohydrate 0.05 3 CI16035 ALLURA RED AC™ 0.005 3 CI19140 TARTRAZINE™ 0.005

The composition of Example 3 according to the invention is prepared according to the method described above.

Example 4: Measurement of remanence

The persistence of six different compositions according to the invention formulated according to Example 3 was tested. Each of the compositions according to the invention tested respectively comprises an odorous compound mentioned below (instead of the perfume of Example 3) at a concentration of 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The persistence is measured in a comparative manner with respectively an eau de toilette comprising 96% (w/w) of ethyl alcohol and 4% (w/w) of the same odorous compound as the composition according to the invention.

For each odorous compound, the concentrations of the various constituents are expressed by weight of the total weight of the odorous compound.

“FLOWER FEVER®” fragrant compound

Fragrant compound “MADE IN THE SHADE®”

“RAZZ MY BERRIES®” fragrant compound

"PAPER SHAKER®" fragrant compound

“WOODY GROOVY®” fragrant compound

"SWINGING SKIRT®" fragrant compound

Each composition according to the invention (perfume foam) and relative eau de toilette (EDT) is applied to 3 different panelists, specialists in perfumery and perfume development, in a room protected from air and odors .

A determined quantity of each of the compositions according to the invention is applied to one forearm then a comparable quantity of 4% eau de toilette is applied to the other.

The intensity of the perfume is evaluated by each panelist immediately after application, then after 1h, 2h, 4h, 6h and finally 8h. Starting from a value of 100 at T0, the evaluation consists of indicating a proportion of remaining odor compared to this first value of 100 after 1h, 2h, 4h, 6h, 8h.

The average of the results thus obtained, expressed as a percentage of product odor intensity (t=0 being 100%) are compiled in the following tables.

For the “FLOWER FEVER®” fragrant compound, as illustrated in Figure 1, the smell of the perfuming foam according to the invention is more intense over time; after 8 hours of application, 23% of the odor remains for the perfuming foam according to the invention compared to only 3% for the relative eau de toilette, the odor of which has almost completely disappeared.

For the fragrant compound “MADE IN THE SHADE®”, as illustrated by Figure 2, the smell of the perfuming foam according to the invention is more intense over time; after 8 hours of application, 30% of the odor remains for the perfuming mousse according to the invention, whereas that of the relative eau de toilette is only 5% and has almost completely disappeared.

For the fragrant compound "RAZZ MY BERRIES®", as illustrated by Figure 3, the intensity of the perfume decreases in the same way for the perfumed mousse according to the invention and for the relative eau de toilette, but it is always more persistent for the fragrant mousse. There is hardly any odor left after 8 hours for each of the two compositions tested.

For the "PAPER SHAKER®" fragrant compound, as illustrated by Figure 4, the smell of the perfuming foam according to the invention is much more intense than that of the relative eau de toilette. After 2 hours of application, the smell of the eau de toilette is already very weak, whereas that of the perfuming foam according to the invention persists at least until 8 hours.

For the fragrant compound "WOODY GROOVY®", as illustrated by Figure 5, the intensity of the perfume decreases in the same way for the perfumed foam according to the invention and for the relative eau de toilette but it is always more lingering for foam. There is hardly any odor left after 8 hours for each of the two compositions tested.

For the “SWINGING SKIRT®” fragrant compound, as illustrated in Figure 6, the smell of the perfuming foam according to the invention is more intense over time than that of the relative eau de toilette; after 8 hours of application, 17% of the odor remains for the perfuming mousse according to the invention compared to only 8% for the relative eau de toilette, the odor of which has almost completely disappeared.

The average of the odor intensity results obtained for all of the 6 compositions according to the invention tested in comparison with the relative toilet waters is compiled in the following table.

By comparing the results thus obtained, it can be noted surprisingly that the smell of the perfuming foam according to the invention has an improvement in the intensity of the smell and a substantially improved persistence compared to the eau de toilette.

To this end, under the test conditions carried out, the improvement in the intensity of the odor with the perfuming foam according to the invention compared to the relative eau de toilette is 18% at T=1h, 25% at T=2h, 62% at T=4h and increases significantly up to a time of at least 8h with 136% improvement at T=6h and 217% at T=8h.

Claims (15)

Liquid perfuming composition capable of being dispersed in the form of a mousse, characterized in that it comprises:
- at least one fragrant concentrate;
- at least two emulsifiers chosen from nonionic surfactants chosen from alkyl glucosides, fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms and polysorbates, taken alone or as a mixture, at a concentration of between 4.5% and 8% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w);
- at least one foaming agent chosen from anionic or nonionic surfactants having a hydrophilic-lipophilic ratio (HLB) greater than or equal to 12, at a concentration of between 3.5% and 7% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w);
- at least one thickening agent comprising a mixture of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, alkyl glucosides, sorbitan esters and a polyolefin-type oil, at a concentration of between 0.1% and 1.5% by weight of the total weight composition (w/w);
- at least one emollient, at a concentration of between 2% and 6% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w);
- water at a concentration of at least 45% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w);
- an alcohol at a concentration less than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w);
- a moisturizing agent at a concentration of between 0 and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w); and
- a liquefied propellant gas chosen from butane, propane or isobutane taken alone or in combination, at a concentration of between 5% and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w). Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it comprises an alcohol at a concentration of less than 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w), preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight composition (w/w). Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the alcohol is chosen from ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, butyl alcohol, sec-butyl alcohol, isobutyl alcohol, tert-butyl alcohol, pentanol, benzyl alcohol, preferably ethanol of plant origin. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water is demineralised, distilled or osmosis water, preferably demineralised. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the odorant concentrate at a concentration of less than or equal to 5%, preferably between 2.5% and 5%, by weight of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the moisturizing agent at a concentration of between 5% and 12% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w/w). Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the moisturizing agent is chosen from an extract of aloe vera in the form of powder or juice, fruit and vegetable extracts such as cucumber, plant collagen, glycerin, sorbitol, urea or hyaluronic acid. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least two nonionic surfactants used as emulsifiers are a mixture of alkyl glucosides, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms and polysorbates. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic or nonionic surfactant having a hydrophilic-lipophilic ratio (HLB) greater than or equal to 12 is chosen from acyl glutamic acid salts. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises one or more agent(s) chosen from a softener, a preservative, a pH stabilizer, a colorant, glitter and an active principle . Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is formulated in a form suitable for being applied topically to the skin, the scalp and/or the integuments and is in the form of an aerosol packaged in a box or bottle aluminum, protected glass or unprotected glass. Process for the preparation of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises the following stages according to which:
- the water, a thickening agent comprising a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, an alkyl glucoside, a sorbitan ester and a polyolefin type oil, an acyl glutamic acid salt and the moisturizing agent are mixed together to obtain a aqueous solution (phase 1) which is heated to a temperature between 70° C. and 85° C., preferably 80° C.;
- the emollient is mixed with a first emulsifier comprising another alkyl glucoside and a fatty alcohol having 8 to 26 carbon atoms to obtain a waxy solution (phase 2) which is heated to a temperature between 70°C and 85° C., preferably 80° C.;
- when the two phases 1 and 2 are at a temperature between 70°C and 85°C, preferably 80°C, phase 2 is poured into phase 1 to obtain a mixture (phase 3) which is left to cool under agitation;
- when the mixture (phase 3) has reached a temperature between 30°C and 40°C, preferably 35°C, the alcohol, the fragrant concentrate, another polysorbate emulsifier and optionally a softener, a preservative and a pH stabilizer to obtain, after addition of the liquefied propellant gas, said liquid perfuming composition capable of being dispersed in the form of a foam. Slow-breaking perfuming mousse obtained from a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized by the appearance of bubbles whose size varies between 50 µm and 5 mm. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11 in the form of a mousse for perfuming the skin, the scalp and/or the appendages. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11 in the form of a mousse for moisturizing the skin and reinforcing the barrier function.