FR3044211A1 - ASSEMBLY AND METHOD FOR MOLDING KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an assembly comprising: at least one cosmetic composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, and a device comprising a mold (2a, 2b) comprising at least one individual cavity in which at least one one of said fibers can be introduced at least partially, so that the composition is molded on at least a portion of the fiber present in the cavity, the latter having at least one branch so that the molding of the composition on the fiber lead to the formation of at least two branches directed outwards.

Description

The present invention relates to the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows.

It is sought to cosmetically treat the keratinous fibers to give them more visibility and / or an original appearance.

There are known solutions such as the application of mascara, and reuse of additional fibers.

The first of these two solutions is effective for increasing the visibility of eyelashes, but it is limited in gaining visibility.

Attempts have been made to overcome this limit, in particular by increasing the amount of material deposited. If we increase the material deposited by means of a suitable brush, or by increasing the number of brush strokes, a limit is quickly reached, due to the fact that with each new deposit, almost as much material is withdrawn than filed. Unsightly surges and clumps are frequently created.

This solution is also limited by the number of possible aesthetic effects. For example, it is very difficult to obtain very smooth, and therefore very bright coatings.

The second solution is to stick additional fibers, including false eyelashes, on the eyelashes.

A first technique is to glue false eyelashes on the eyelid: the pose is delicate and the result unnatural. In addition the remanence is low, being limited to about a day. Such eyelash fringes, as well as their methods of manufacture, are described in US Pat. Nos. 2,421,432 and 3,559,657.

Another technique is to glue false eyelashes one by one on the eyelashes: the effect is not very visible, more durable but long to perform, expensive and only achievable by a professional.

We are therefore looking for a way to cosmetically treat the eyelashes to obtain effects of high volume and / or length, without risk of agglomeration of eyelashes. We are also looking for a way to create new effects on keratinous fibers, such as smooth and shiny coating effects, all with an easy-to-use process.

By "eyelash" is meant in the following both those of the fringe of eyelashes of the eyelid than those of the eyebrows.

Unless otherwise stated, the quantities according to the invention are given at ambient temperature and pressure, that is to say respectively at 25 ° C. and at 1 atmosphere.

Effects of multiple branches

Many people regret having poor eyelashes, with fewer eyelashes than they would like. The application of mascara is a potential solution to make eyelashes more visible. However, this solution is not always satisfactory because by increasing the thickness of the eyelashes, it is also possible to create groupings of eyelashes into bundles and the number of visible eyelashes is further depleted. We can also make the eyelashes with a mascara taking care to avoid groupings. But, in this case, the makeup of the eyelashes is very light and does not solve the problem completely.

The installation of eyelash extensions is also unsatisfactory because requiring significant work at a cost often prohibitive. The invention, according to a first of its aspects, aims to find a practical solution to obtain a load effect of the eyelashes and an aspect where the eyelashes appear multiplied.

According to this first aspect, the subject of the invention is an assembly comprising: at least one cosmetic composition for cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, and a device comprising a mold comprising at least one cavity in which at least one one of said fibers can be introduced at least partially, so that the composition is molded on at least a portion of the fiber present in the cavity, the latter having at least one branch so that the molding of the composition on the fiber lead to the formation of at least two branches directed outwards.

Instead of depositing as in the prior art a composition on the keratinous fibers by forcing it to spread thereon, for example with the aid of a brush, or to glue additional fibers, especially false eyelashes, one molds according to this aspect of the invention a composition on keratinous fibers. This composition is molded in the fluid state, and then takes the mass, which allows demolding and the formation of the aforementioned branches.

This makes it possible to control the shape of the composition deposit on the treated fibers and to obtain, whatever the dexterity of the person, a reproducible result.

The formation of branches directed outwards by molding on the eyelashes gives the impression of a greater density of eyelashes. The invention thus makes it possible to easily generate new forms and effects which are not easily accessible in the prior art, in particular a reduced eyelash effect, to exceed, if desired, the length of the keratin fibers or the thickness of the usual deposits, or even to achieve inaccessible color or gloss effects, and easily integrate if desired additional fibers, such as false eyelashes. The surface condition of the mold may be chosen to provide the deposit with a smooth outer surface and a glossy appearance if desired.

The cavity or cavities may be formed by the approximation of two jaws, in particular in a translational movement of one of the two jaws relative to the other, each jaw carrying a mold part. Each mold part may have cavity-forming cavities or alternatively only one of the two mold parts has such cavities. Each mold part may be made of an elastically deformable material, such as a silicone. The composition may be initially carried by one or both of the mold parts.

The branches can form spikes. Thus, an eyelash can carry several molded tips.

If necessary, the branches connect several eyelashes, which may tend to standardize their curvature and discipline them.

The mold may comprise a plurality of cavities in each of which at least one of said fibers may be introduced at least partially, so that the composition is molded on at least a portion of each fiber present in the corresponding cavity, the cavities each having at least one branch so that the molding of the composition on the fibers leads to the formation of at least two branches by fiber on which the composition is molded.

The eyelash receiving cavities are preferably oriented generally perpendicular to the adjacent proximal edge of the mold.

All mold cavities may have branches. In a variant, only a portion of the cavities have branches. The branch can be located more than halfway down the corresponding cavity from its proximal end. This makes it possible to retain more mobility in the eyelashes, making it easier to avoid, if desired, the formed branches from crossing other eyelashes.

The or each cavity may thus comprise at least one Y-shaped pattern, in particular be constituted by a single Y-pattern. The angle of divergence between the branches of the Y, which form peaks extending preferably beyond the molded eyelash, is for example between 10 ° and 60 °, better between 10 ° and 40 °.

In a variant, the or each cavity comprises at least one X-shaped pattern, in particular has only one X pattern or two X patterns succeeding one another in the longitudinal direction of the cavity. X patterns of different cavities can join to form a continuous composition grid extending over several eyelashes; this may tend to standardize the curvature of the eyelashes.

A pattern in X or Y may, if necessary, cover in top view several eyelashes.

The mold may comprise a single X-pattern per cavity receiving an eyelash, the crossing of the branches of the X being preferably located between 1/3 and 2/3 of the length of the cavity, from its proximal end.

The or each cavity may be open at its proximal and distal ends.

In addition to the eyelash receiving cavities, at least one of the mold portions may comprise a groove extending transversely to the cavities, as detailed below. Such a groove may be useful for molding a strip of composition connecting the eyelashes to each other, and thus uniform their curvature. Such a groove may be further useful for molding a web of composition serving as a backing for added added fibers.

The cavities may have proximal ends that lie along a curvilinear baseline concave toward the proximal edge of the mold, i.e. towards the user, and the aforementioned groove may be of longitudinal axis curvilinear concave towards the proximal edge of the mold also. The longitudinal axis of the groove is preferably closer to the proximal end of the cavities that it crosses than to their distal end.

The groove can thus be less than 2 mm away from the proximal edge of the mold, better by less than 1 mm. The throat can be used to mold a band of composition giving a liner appearance on the eyelid or the brow bone.

The branches formed by the same cavity can be separated at their distal end by a distance of between 0.5 and 3 mm, this distance being measured from edge to edge.

The shape and / or spacing between the cavities may vary along a baseline from which the cavities extend, as detailed below. This allows for an evolutionary makeup. The number of branches per fiber receiving cavity can thus vary along the baseline. The invention further relates to a process for making eyelashes, comprising the step of: molding the composition on the eyelashes using an assembly as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also, according to a second of its aspects, which may or may not combine with the first, an assembly comprising: at least one cosmetic treatment composition for keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, and device comprising a mold having a plurality of cavities distributed along a base line and extending generally transversely to this baseline outwardly, cavities in each of which at least one of said fibers can be introduced at least partially, so that the composition is molded on at least a portion of the fibers present in the corresponding cavities, the shape and / or spacing between the cavities varying along said baseline and / or the nature of the composition varying along said baseline. The invention makes it possible to achieve in this aspect diversified makeup.

The shape of the cavities may vary along the baseline. "Form" includes length or section; for example, two rectilinear cavities of different lengths are considered to be of different shapes. The spacing between the cavities may vary along the baseline.

The mold can be made to mold several areas with patterns of the same type within each zone and patterns that differ from one area to another. For example, the mold is arranged in zones, with cavities of the same shape within each zone, and the cavities have different shapes from one zone to another. For example, there is an area where the cavities are arranged to produce X-patterns and an area where they are arranged to make Y-patterns.

The number of such areas ranges from 2 to 10, for example.

Along the baseline, the length of the cavities receiving the eyelashes may vary, for example to mold molded portions on the eyelashes, which are longer in a central region than at the ends.

Along the baseline, the section of the cavities on the proximal end side may vary, for example with a section that passes through a maximum as one travels along the baseline from one end to the other of it.

Along the baseline, the cross section of the mid-length cavities may vary, for example with the section of the cavities that passes through a maximum when moving along the baseline from one end to the other .

The mold may have cavities all of different shapes. Alternatively, some cavities are identical, but at least half of the cavities each receiving at least one eyelash has a different shape. Less than a third, or even less than a quarter of cavities, may have different shapes.

In an area where the cavities are identical, when such an area exists, one can have the ratio η, / N, where m is the number of identical cavities and N is the total number of cavities, satisfying the relation 1/10 <ni / N <9/10, better 1/10 <n, / N <1/3.

Along the baseline, the nature of the composition may evolve. For example, different color compositions are molded in separate areas of the mold.

Concave band of composition

Many people regret having fringes of bushy eyelashes. The term "bushy" means that the eyelashes are not or slightly aligned, leaving some out of the expected angle.

This phenomenon is detrimental to aesthetics and there is no alternative to trying to comb them. If the situation is limited to a few unruly eyelashes, the application of a mascara may limit the problem. However, mascara tends to lose its effectiveness throughout the day, causing the return of the bushy effect. Moreover this solution is not adapted to the situation where many eyelashes are undisciplined. The result in this case tends to be worse than before because the mascara application creates many groupings. The invention aims, according to a third aspect, which may or may not combine with each of the first two, to solve this problem and relates to a set comprising: at least one cosmetic composition for the cosmetic treatment of eyelashes or eyebrows, and a device comprising a mold comprising two mold parts to be closed on the eyelashes, one of these parts having a concave groove, in particular curvilinear, allowing the formation of a band of composition connecting at least a portion of the eyelashes along the eyelid or brow bone.

The groove is concave towards the proximal edge of the mold.

Such a band makes it possible to secure the eyelashes to one another and thus tends to standardize their curvature. It can also make it possible to modify the natural orientation of the eyelashes if during the molding the eyelashes are forced to take a certain orientation and the demolding occurs once the band has cooled sufficiently to maintain its cohesion.

The device may comprise cavities in which the eyelashes engage and which force the eyelashes to take a certain orientation during the molding of the strip.

The molding of the composition band on the eyelashes can take place after combing the eyelashes, if necessary.

The groove may have a constant width along its longitudinal axis; alternatively, the width of the groove varies, to form a band of variable width.

The width of the groove may in particular gradually decrease towards an end which corresponds to the inner corner of the eye, or on the contrary to the outside of the eye. A larger width on the outside of the eye gives a particularly sought after aesthetic effect.

The depth of the groove may be constant along its longitudinal axis; alternatively, the depth of the groove varies along its longitudinal axis. A greater depth on the outside of the eye may also be aesthetically desirable.

The distance from the groove to the proximal edge of the mold, that is to say the one turned towards the eyelid or the brow bone at the moment of use, can be relatively small, so that the band gives an appearance liner on the eyelid or brow bone.

The distance from the groove to the proximal edge can thus be less than or equal to 2 mm, better than 1 mm. The longitudinal axis of the groove may have a constant or variable curvature. The longitudinal axis of the groove may be without any straight segment, or alternatively may be curvilinear in pieces or concave due to a succession of relatively short straight segments whose orientations differ so as to give a concave shape towards the proximal edge of the groove. mold, for example at least 25 such segments, for example 30 segments.

The throat can be unique. In a variant, each mold part has several grooves which are, for example, concentric. For example, there are several grooves substantially parallel and spaced from each other, the width of which decreases from one band to the other, towards the free end of the eyelashes.

The groove is preferably arranged to allow the formation of a continuous composition band over the entire eyelash fringe; alternatively, the throat is interrupted, for example at mid-length, the throat can still extend over half of the fringe only, for example to give a liner effect on the outside of the eye only.

The length of the band formed on the eyelashes preferably corresponds substantially to the length of the eyelash fringe. The length of the strip is preferably greater than or equal to 20 mm.

The groove may optionally extend along a curvilinear median axis concave to the proximal edge of the mold by waving along this median axis, sinusoidally or zig-zag, and create new aesthetic effects.

The mold may be devoid of other molding cavities. In a variant, the mold comprises, in addition to the groove serving to mold the composition band, at least one additional cavity intended to receive an eyelash for molding the composition thereon, in particular a cavity as defined above, having at least one a fork.

The mold may thus include cavities for molding eyelashes as described elsewhere in this document.

In the presence of such cavities, the groove may intersect them so that for each cavity the intersection is substantially at the same distance from the proximal end of the cavity. In a variant, this distance changes from one cavity to another.

The maximum depth of the groove on the corresponding mold part may be the same as that of the cavities corresponding to the cavities on the same mold part; alternatively, it is different, for example the groove is deeper than the cavities intended to form the cavities for receiving the eyelashes. This allows to have a pronounced liner effect while keeping a lash of eyelashes.

In the presence of eyelash molding cavities, these may have no proximal end emerging on the proximal edge of the mold; the cavities can then open into the groove, which preferably extends as indicated above a short distance from the proximal edge of the mold, along it, for example a distance representing less than the width of the groove.

The depth of the cavities intended for the formation of the eyelash molding cavities may decrease towards the distal edge of the mold, on which the cavities can open.

Preferably, the longitudinal ends of the groove are closed, that is to say that the groove does not open at its ends outside the mold. The longitudinal axis of the groove preferably extends in a plane.

The maximum width of the band formed is, for example, between 0.15 and 3 mm and the thickness of the band formed is preferably between 0.2 and 2 mm. The mold can be used for the manufacture of an article comprising a molded strip, obtained by means of the aforementioned groove, and possibly fibers supported by this band.

Article to apply on eyelashes

Such an article comprises a preformed band that can be applied to the eyelashes by fixing the strip on the eyelashes, for example by melting it if a hot-melt composition is used to make the strip.

The preformed strip is preferably concave, especially in a plane, so as to follow the curvature of the eyelid. The band is preferably curvilinear.

The preformed strip may or may not include fibers chosen to look the same as the eyelashes of the person using the article, which may give the impression of more lashes or eyebrows.

The fibers may be attached to the web by being oriented substantially perpendicular thereto. The fibers may extend only to one side of the web, with their end located in or on the web.

To achieve the article, the mold described above can be used by placing the additional fibers inside the lash-receiving cavities and filling the groove with the composition, the fibers protruding into the groove. After demolding, a band is formed, which holds the fibers. The invention thus also relates to an article to be applied to the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising a band of composition to be applied to the eyelashes or eyebrows.

Preferably, the composition is hot-melt, which makes it possible to fix the strip on the eyelashes by melting it at least partially, for example by pressing it on the eyelashes with the aid of two jaws close to one another, at least one of which is heated to a temperature sufficient to cause at least partial fusion of the strip. The article may consist only of the composition band to be applied to the eyelashes or eyebrows.

In a variant, the article is constituted by the band and by fibers carried by the band, preferably oriented substantially perpendicular thereto.

Preferably, the strip then bears between 10 and 120 fibers.

Preferably, the band is concave towards the eyelid or the brow bone, so for example to follow the contour of the eyelid. It is preferably curvilinear, but can be rectilinear in pieces.

The radius of curvature of the strip may be between 15 and 60 mm.

The length of the strip of the article may be between 10 and 60 mm and its width between 0.2 and 3 mm.

The fibers carried by the strip may be of length between 5 and 30 mm. The subject of the invention is also an assembly comprising, in particular within the same package: an article as defined above, in the form of a band of single composition or of a band of composition carrying fibers, and a device to fix the band on the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising two jaws movable relative to each other, which can be brought together to press the article against the eyelashes, at least one of the jaws advantageously comprises heating means for wear the strip at a temperature above its melting temperature, when the strip is made of a hot melt material.

These heating means comprise for example a heating resistor, at least one lamp emitting in the infrared or microwave means.

The invention also relates to a method for treating eyelashes or eyebrows, in which: - it is applied to the eyelashes, using a device applicator, in particular an applicator device comprising two jaws to be tightened on the eyelashes, at least one concave band, in particular curvilinear, with a composition that connects the eyelashes to one another, in particular being oriented transversely thereto.

This band is preferably formed by a heat-sensitive composition, especially as defined below.

The band may belong to an article as defined above, being preformed and fixed on the eyelashes by being melted on contact, or be formed in situ on the eyelashes using a device comprising a mold of which the at least one of the parts has a groove forming the band, as defined above.

When the strip is preformed, can be used to achieve a device as defined above, at least one of the mold parts has a non-rectilinear groove.

When the band is formed in situ, the fact of depositing at the base of the eyelashes a composition melted with the aid of an applicator device, allows after the application and caking of the composition due to cooling, to block the fringe eyelashes in a given position.

According to a variant of the process: - the eyelashes are combed, then - the strip of hot melt composition is applied, preferably taking care not to change the orientation of the eyelashes.

According to another variant, the melted composition is applied to the eyelashes, or it is melted in contact with the eyelashes, and it is combed before cooling and freezing of the composition.

According to another variant, means are used arranged to align the eyelashes, the time of the operation of application of the composition and its cooling. For example, the eyelashes can be combed and / or vibrated to align them.

This aspect of the invention applies to situations other than the treatment of scrubby eyelashes.

For example, it is possible to use the method for modifying the angle of implantation of the eyelashes, on the whole of the fringe, or only on a part, for example the outer edge, to create visual effects. For this, we can send a stream of air or apply another force from top to bottom, or vice versa, or side (sweep), before the composition takes up mass. The advantage is that eyelashes can be made more visible without having to change the general curvature of the eyelash or the length of the fiber. In this way, it is possible to obtain an apparent change in the angle of implantation of the eyelashes.

You can also use a comb to spread the eyelashes and make the eyelashes grow larger. For this we can use a comb capable of removing the eyelashes, such as a comb whose teeth are movable and provided to move away from each other after introduction between the eyelashes. Thus, in one variant of the process, the eyelashes are spread apart and kept apart by the addition of the composition band.

It is also possible to apply the composition and, after cooling, carry out a new heating step so as to melt the composition and to be able to modify the orientation of the eyelashes. This is useful if you are not satisfied with the initial result or you want to change it during the day. The application of the composition can be done from below the eyelash fringe or from above or from both sides. An application of the composition from above is carried out for example by means of a mold of which only the upper part comprises the forming groove of the strip. The application of the composition from below is carried out with a mold of which only the lower part comprises said groove. The application of the composition from above and below is carried out with a mold whose upper and lower parts each comprise a groove, the two grooves overlapping preferably at least partially, more accurately, when the mold is closed on the lashes.

The composition band may be black, which makes it possible to obtain a liner effect, or a flesh-colored effect, in particular of the same color as that of the skin of the person, in order to correct the perceived shape of the eye, especially in the case of eyes too open. In this case, the band of composition is applied closer to the eyelid.

For example, the band is applied less than 2 mm from the eyelid, better within 1 mm. The band of composition can still be white to give the illusion of a more open eye.

Method of molding a hot melt composition

The molding around the eyelashes using a hot-melt composition, such as that defined below, whose melting temperature is between 40 ° C. and 120 ° C., requires a mold formed of two parts, and a composition capable of changing state. with temperature: Fluid at a temperature above its melting temperature, solid at room temperature. Thus, one can position the eyelash fringe between the two parts of the mold containing the composition in the molten state and then press the mold, wait for the temperature to go down and remove the mold.

However, this process can pose difficulties of realization: 1) Either the composition is heated without heating the mold. This solution works but requires good dexterity to quickly position the mold parts before the composition cools; Or 2) the mold is heated to transfer heat to the composition to melt. This approach works but poses problems of material migration. Indeed, it is inevitable that the user takes some time to position the mold. In doing so, it may take about a minute to approach the device, the two mold parts being separated at this time, and then position it so that the eyelashes fit between the two mold parts. In general, he needs to check the correct positioning again. This verification also takes time. Thus, there is an evolution of the fusible composition during this approach and this verification. In particular, the composition can migrate, forming surpluses in some parts of the mold and gaps in others. In addition, during positioning, it is difficult not to touch the skin, or the tip of the eyelashes, especially if they are bushy, or the base of the eyelashes. The user realizes this in general and rectifies his position. However, there is sometimes a staining effect or alteration of the natural shape of the eyelashes or the effects of unwanted clumps of eyelashes.

This problem can be solved by starting the heating only after proper positioning and tightening of the mold parts. However, this solution is not perfectly satisfactory from an aesthetic point of view. It can be seen that moldings can form on eyelashes that are not well positioned. One can risk molding on a network of eyelashes that can be intertwined. To limit this problem, the eyelashes can be combed beforehand with the composition, but it is observed that the positioning operation inevitably causes certain contacts between the device and the eyelashes, thus undoing the combing effect.

So there is a problem to solve. The invention aims, in a fourth aspect, which may or may not combine with each of the foregoing, to the extent that a heat-sensitive composition is used, to find a method and a molding device that allow a comfortable positioning of the eyelashes and a result aesthetic molding, with in particular relatively arranged lashes in the molding. The subject of the invention is therefore, according to a fourth aspect, a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, using a two-part mold between which the fibers are positioned, the two mold parts defining at least one cavity containing a heat-sensitive cosmetic composition and in which at least one of the fibers is at least partially introduced, at least one of said mold parts being provided with heating means, said method comprising the steps of to: a) heating the composition beyond its melting temperature by means of the heating means, b) interrupting the heating of the composition, c) bringing the two mold parts together to mold the composition on said at least one fiber.

With this aspect of the invention, we have: 1) a comfortable positioning of the device, without risk of slackening, 2) no problem of migration of the composition and therefore a homogeneous molding result; and 3) a molding result where the eyelashes are well aligned.

This alignment seems to be due to the fact that when the composition comes into contact with the eyelashes, it is sufficiently melted to cause a capillary force effect tending to align the eyelashes, without giving them time to make groupings or release effects.

The temperature Ti at which the composition is heated beyond its melting temperature Tf is for example such that Ti-Tf> 5 ° C, better Ti-Tf> 10 ° C.

The result can be further improved by the use of a mechanical force at the moment of contact between the eyelashes and the mold parts, such as transverse, longitudinal or vertical shear.

The method can thus comprise the step of subjecting the eyelashes to vibrations while the composition is in contact with them in the molten state.

The vibrations and oscillations that result can have the effect of further improving the alignment of the eyelashes and therefore the final aesthetic result.

The oscillations can be caused manually or by a mechanical system such as a vibrator, subjecting to vibration only one or both mold parts, the frequency of the vibrations being preferably between 50 and 125 Hz and the amplitude between 0.2 and 0.4 mm, in particular 100 Hz and 0.3 mm.

Accelerated cooling of the composition can also be caused as soon as the contact between the mold parts and the eyelashes is effected.

In particular, it can be sought to ensure that the cooling rate of the composition after closure of the mold is greater than or equal to 0.3 ° CS'1.

For this, one can use a Peltier type element.

The operations a), b) and c) above, possibly with an intermediate latency time and / or a shearing operation and / or a cooling operation, and the operation of separating the parts of the mold can be carried out with a control of the heating and / or cooling means, and optionally the closing and opening of the mold, automatically with the aid of an electronic circuit. Thus, a single trigger by the user at the beginning of operations will cause the sequential execution of these actions.

The mold parts can be preheated before step a) above at a temperature lower than the melting temperature of the composition, for example to maintain the mold parts prior to the introduction of the composition at a temperature Tm with T [- tm <5 ° C where Tm is the preheating temperature and Tf the melting temperature.

The molding device used may comprise an internal temperature sensor enabling it to know the temperature of the composition.

The heating and / or cooling means may be integrated with only one of the mold parts, preferably the lower part, or with the two mold parts.

In one example, the lower mold part has the heating means and the upper mold part the cooling means.

The heating means may comprise an electrical resistance, or a source of infrared radiation or microwaves. Preferably, these heating means are indissociable from at least one of the jaws of the device. The invention also relates to a set of treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, for the implementation of the above process, comprising: a hot-melt cosmetic composition, a treatment device comprising two mold parts between wherein the fibers can be positioned, said portions defining at least one mold cavity in which at least one of said fibers can be introduced at least partially for molding a composition on the fiber, heating means of one at least said mold parts, for bringing the composition to a temperature above its melting temperature prior to the closing of the mold on the fiber or fibers, control means for controlling the heating means in order to deactivate them automatically before closing mold or when closing the mold. These control means comprise for example a microprocessor card or microcontroller or programmable logic network or the like.

Preferably, the heating means are deactivated before closing the mold, so that the mold portion containing the composition begins to cool before closing the mold, but with still insufficient cooling of the composition so that it solidifies.

The closure of the mold occurs for example in less than 2s.

The mold parts may be made of elastomer, in particular silicone, and be carried by metal plates, in particular aluminum.

The heating means may comprise a heating resistor.

The device may comprise a vibrator, for subjecting at least one of the mold parts to vibrations at the moment when the composition is still fluid. The shutdown of the vibrator and its start can be controlled automatically by the device depending on the temperature. In particular, the stop of the vibrator can be automatic as soon as the temperature of the composition falls below a temperature Te with Te = Tf + 5 ° C, where Tf denotes the melting temperature of the composition under 1 atm.

The device may include a Peltier effect element to accelerate the cooling once the heating means are deactivated. Where appropriate, the heating means comprise the Peltier element, traversed by a current opposite to that causing the cooling.

The device may comprise an electric switch actuated during the closure of the mold and / or at the beginning of the movement of approximation of the mold parts from an initial position of insertion of the eyelashes together. The change of state of this switch can be used to disable the heating means.

The mold parts may be biased by elastic return means, in spacing.

The device may comprise an electronic circuit which makes it possible to carry out the sequence of heating and stopping operations of the heating automatically, as well as possibly closing or opening the mold and / or activating the cooling means. This electronic circuit may be a microprocessor, a microcontroller or a programmable logic network or the like. I. Processed keratin fibers

The keratinous fibers to which, according to any one of its aspects, are applied in detail above, the invention is preferably human, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, more preferably eyelashes.

Keratin fibers can be hair. It is thus possible to treat the hair, particularly over a part of their length, such as for example the roots to increase the rigidity and / or their peaks to improve the appearance.

It is possible to post-treat the keratinous fibers molded according to the invention with other products, for example mascara, or by contact with a hot surface.

Each of said fibers may be at least partially introduced into a respective cavity of the mold. At least two of said fibers may be at least partially introduced into the same cavity. At least one cavity may contain only one fiber.

When the cavities have branches (first aspect of the invention), and / or to make an evolutionary makeup (second aspect of the invention), and / or for the implementation of the molding process (fourth aspect of the invention) invention), the composition may be deposited over at least three quarters of the length of at least one of said fibers, more preferably at least three quarters of the length of each of said fibers.

The length of a fiber is measured from the surface of the skin to its free end when the fiber is laid flat.

The composition may be deposited on only a portion of the length of at least one of said fibers, more preferably on only a portion of the length of each of said fibers. II. Mold

The molding of the composition, at least according to the first, second and fourth aspects of the invention, or even according to the third aspect, is carried out in situ in the mold, and the molding allows the shaping of the composition.

Each mold part may comprise one or more indentations, each of which at least partially defines a cavity of the mold or the aforementioned groove used for producing the composition band which connects the eyelashes. Preferably, the mold is not limited to a single cavity.

The mold may comprise at least two parts each comprising one or more impressions, the fingerprint or fingerprints of one of the parts being arranged facing the fingerprint or fingerprints of at least one other part, so as to form all the necessary recesses molding the composition when the mold parts are joined.

The mold may comprise at least two parts, a part comprising one or more imprints, each of the imprints being in particular, over at least part of its length, of semicircular cross-section, the other part being devoid of imprint, of to form the cavity or cavities of the mold when the mold parts are joined together. Such a mold has the advantage of not requiring a high accuracy of facing the two parts of the mold to form the cavities.

The imprints can be arranged in a fan on the corresponding mold part to accommodate the eyelashes of a fringe.

The impressions may be arranged along only a portion of the mold, especially at the front thereof, that is to say on the proximal side where the keratinous fibers to be treated are introduced.

The mold can be single use or not. The surface condition of the mold may be smooth to impart to the molded composition a smooth outer surface and a shiny appearance.

There may be no relative speed between the keratinous fibers and the cavities during molding, for example for a time necessary for the curing or drying of the composition, for example a duration of 10 to 60 seconds. Alternatively, as explained above, the mold is exposed to vibration while the composition is fluid. III. Mold cavities

The volume of the cavity (s) receiving the fibers to be treated may exceed by at least a factor of 2, more preferably by a factor of 10 to 100, the volume of the portion of these fibers filling them.

The cavity or cavities may each be, over at least part of their length, of circular, semicircular, oval or polygonal cross section, constant or not when moving along the cavity.

The cavity or cavities may comprise portions of substantially cylindrical or conical shape.

The cavity or cavities may each be at least a portion of their length of decreasing cross-section so as to give a tapered appearance to the fiber (s) once molded by the composition.

The cavity or cavities may each be of length between 5 and 30 mm and width at the entrance, in particular of diameter, between 150 pm and 3 mm.

Each cavity may have an elongated curvilinear shape so as to substantially reproduce the curvature of the eyelashes introduced therein. Each cavity may instead have an elongated shape that does not reproduce the curvature of the eyelashes, in particular being of rectilinear longitudinal axis or broken line (for the second and fourth aspects of the invention at least).

Each cavity may have an elongated shape and be closed at at least one of its longitudinal ends.

Each cavity may constitute a substantially completely closed space, in the absence of keratinous fiber. In this case, a portion of each keratin fiber introduced at least partially into a cavity can be clamped between the two parts of the assembled mold, while another part of the keratinous fiber extends into the cavity. The cavity may be closed on the insertion side of the keratinous fiber or fibers by a flexible wall, which may deform, preferably elastically, to let the keratinous fiber or fibers into the cavity.

As a variant, each cavity may constitute a semi-open space, in the absence of keratin fiber. In particular, each cavity may delimit a closed space with the exception of one end through which the keratinous fiber or fibers introduced at least partially into the cavity communicate with the outside. Thus, each cavity can open out, on the insertion side of the keratinous fiber or fibers, by an opening through which the keratinous fiber or fibers are introduced.

At least two of the cavities may be disjoint. All the cavities can be disjointed.

The cavities can be parallel to each other, or not.

The cavities may be arranged at regular intervals, for example in a pitch of 1 to 2 mm, center to center.

The number of cavities may be greater than or equal to six, more preferably greater than or equal to ten. IV. Jaws

The cavity or cavities may be formed by the approximation of two jaws, including a translational movement and / or rotation of one of the jaws relative to the other.

The two jaws can be removed at the time when the keratinous fibers are introduced and closed to form the cavities into which the keratinous fibers are introduced.

The jaws can carry or integrate the mold.

The jaws may be curved, in particular around a geometrical axis perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the mold cavities receiving the eyelashes.

To separate the two jaws at the time when the keratinous fibers are introduced and to close them to form the cavities, it is possible to use a device where one or both jaws slide on columns, or a device where one of the jaws is carried by a slider.

One can also use a device where the jaws are connected by a hinge.

Preferably, the jaws are brought closer with a translational movement, at least at the end of the movement of approximation.

It is also possible to use a system where the jaws are disjoint, and are or are not associated by a guide system.

The two jaws with the corresponding mold parts preferably fit so well that the composition present in the cavities does not escape.

The jaws may comprise mold parts made of an elastomeric material, for example to absorb deformation of the mold. V. Deformation of the mold

It may be advantageous to deform the mold with the keratin fibers in place to reduce the volume of the cavities, and for example force the composition to be distributed around the fibers introduced into the cavities.

The mold may comprise a flexible material, in particular a plastic material, in particular an elastomeric material.

An extensible mold, in particular an elastomeric mold, makes it possible to compress the composition in order to avoid dead volume problems and / or to force a better integration of the fibers into the composition. The mold may be integrally formed of flexible material, in particular plastic, in particular elastomeric material.

The mold may have flexible portions and non-flexible portions. The mold may in particular be covered on the surface with flexible material, in particular elastomeric material, for example on a thickness ranging from 0.5 to 2 mm.

The deformation of the mold can be done by compression, for example mechanical with the fingers, or be pneumatic or hydraulic, or by suction. For example, by pressing a trigger, it can create an overpressure between a jaw and the mold, which has the effect of compressing the two parts of the mold on top of each other, and avoid dead zones. VI. Divesting

The composition may be demolded, extracted from the mold, preferably without losing its cohesion around the keratinous fibers and retaining the surface condition imparted by the mold.

Demolding of the composition without deterioration is desired.

The mold can be extensible, especially elastomeric, to facilitate demolding.

The cavity or cavities of the mold may have a release coating or have undergone a treatment aimed at imparting anti-adhesive properties. Thus, the mold parts may comprise on the surface a low adhesion material, in particular of the silicone or PTFE type. It is also possible to apply a layer of a release agent to the mold cavity (s), especially an oil, a silicone, a PTFE powder or boron nitride.

The device may comprise a demolding system, automatic or not, to act on the mold and / or the composition contained in the cavity or cavities to facilitate the separation of the composition-coated fibers from the mold. This demolding system may comprise a set of small blades or other reliefs which deform the mold being pressed against it. The deformation of the mold can take place at the level of the cavities, which facilitates the ejection of the molded material.

Bridges of composition can connect several cavities together after molding, unwanted way. The device may comprise blades or other reliefs for cutting bridges of composition between at least two cavities after molding, in particular for the first, second and fourth aspects of the invention. These blades or other reliefs can act by coming to apply on the bridges between the cavities. These blades can be reported on the mold.

The blades or other reliefs that serve to cut the bridges of composition can be carried by one of the jaws. In this case, the other jaw may have a flat surface facing the blade or other relief or a groove in which the blade or other relief engages. The blades or other reliefs can still be arranged on the two jaws, so that a blade or other relief of one of the jaws is applied to a blade or other relief of the other jaw.

The demolding of the molded composition is preferably carried out mechanically, in particular by deformation of the mold, removal of the two jaws from each other and / or by pulling the keratinous fibers out of the mold.

The demolding of the composition may be carried out, if necessary, by pulling at one end of a portion of the mold to separate it from the other part, in the manner in which two sheets adhering to each other are separated by peeling. The demolding of the molded composition may also, according to one variant, be carried out at least in part by physicochemical means, in particular by at least partial dissolution by a solvent of the mold or of a film present inside the mold between this mold. and the composition molded on the keratinous fibers. VII. Contribution of the composition

In the case in particular where a non-hot-melt composition is used to implement the invention according to one of the first, second and third aspects, at least a part of the composition, in particular the entire composition, may be deposited on at least one part. one of said fibers, better on each of said fibers, before their introduction into the mold. In this case, the closing of the mold can distribute the composition in the cavities and, if appropriate, expel the excess of composition from the mold.

In particular when using a hot melt composition, at least a portion of the composition, especially the entire composition, may initially be present in the mold before introduction of the fiber or fibers into the mold. This may facilitate the dosing of the composition introduced into the mold cavity (s).

The composition may be contained with the mold in a sealed package, as appropriate.

At least a part of the composition, in particular the entire composition, can be injected into the mold by at least one injection channel.

The mold may comprise mold parts with imprints in which at least a part of the composition, in particular the entire composition, is present before introduction of the keratinous fiber or fibers into the mold. The imprints define the mold cavities when the latter is closed.

The mold may comprise at least two parts each comprising indentations, at least a part of the composition, especially the entire composition, being present in at least one mold part, in particular in all parts of the mold, before introduction of the keratin fibers in the mold. For example, the composition completely fills the imprints and is present only in the cavities, before closing the mold.

The mold can also be pre-filled with excess of the composition, so that the material protrudes from the cavity, for example by being a little curved. In this way, it avoids a possible lack of product around the eyelash and ensures the formation of a perfect molding. VIII. automatism

The operation of the molding device can be automated, as previously indicated. A single trigger may allow to perform a series of operations, for example the filling of the cavities with the molding composition, and an action exerted on the mold to deform it in order to proceed with the demolding. The closing of the mold can also be automatic. IX. Device

As already indicated, the device used to implement the invention according to any one of its four aspects may comprise at least one heating element for increasing the temperature of the composition. The increase in temperature may induce a change of state of the composition, in particular a passage from the solid state to the liquid state by melting, or for the first and second aspect of the invention at least when the composition used is not heat-sensitive, the solidification of the composition, or an increase in the reactivity of the composition.

For the first and second aspects of the invention in particular, during the temperature increase, the composition may be present in the mold or outside the mold. The composition may be present outside the mold during the increase of the temperature of the mold and be injected in the liquid state into the mold, in particular by at least one injection channel. Heating can also be triggered automatically when the mold is closed. Alternatively, the heating can be triggered before closing the mold and a visual and / or audible indicator can signal to the user that the desired temperature for closing the mold and / or placing the fibers has been reached.

In particular, when the composition is not a heat-sensitive composition, the device may comprise at least one evaporation system for evaporating a solvent. It may be a heating element and / or a suitable ventilation.

The device may comprise at least one material admission system for introducing part or all of the composition into the cavity or cavities of the mold, in particular comprising one or more injection channels communicating with one or more cavities of the mold . The composition is, for example, contained in a reservoir, and a piston or a pump makes it possible to force it to flow into the cavity or cavities of the mold.

The device may comprise at least one light element, in particular IR, UV or visible, or microwave, serving in particular to increase the temperature of the composition, in particular by absorption of the light radiation or microwave by the cosmetic composition.

The closure of the jaws can be operated manually.

The device may be in the form of a clamp comprising at least one housing in which at least one of the fingers of one hand, for example the thumb or the index finger, can be introduced to move the two jaws apart, so that to allow to introduce the keratinous fibers and to close them on them.

The device can be in the form of a clamp comprising two housings in which two of the fingers of one hand, for example the thumb and the index finger, can be introduced to move the two jaws apart, in order to allow insertion of the two jaws. keratin fibers and close them on them. Each of these housing can be removable or not. Each of these housings can be rotatable or not.

Preferably, the composition is hot melt.

More preferably, the device for molding the composition allows the implementation of the molding process according to the fourth aspect of the invention, detailed above.

The device thus preferably comprises two jaws can be close together, at least one integrates heating means. X. Cosmetic composition

The composition for molding eyelashes and / or the formation of the aforementioned band is a cosmetic composition. It can be removed from the keratin fibers to which it has been applied by conventional methods of removing make-up, for example by the application of water, in particular hot water.

A. Hot melt composition having a melting temperature of 40 ° C to 120 ° C

When the cosmetic composition implemented according to one of the four aspects of the invention is hot-melt, which is very particularly preferred, it preferably has a melting point of between 40 ° C. and 120 ° C., and comprises at least 15% by weight of fusible compound (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, such a composition is worn during molding at a temperature greater than or equal to its melting temperature Tf.

In particular, the cosmetic composition may have a melting point of between 40 ° C. and 100 ° C., preferably between 45 ° C. and 85 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 120 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, and is then cooled from 120 ° C to -20 ° C. ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 120 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the following parameters are measured: the melting point (Tf) of the sample, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed depending on the temperature;

Ahf: the melting enthalpy of the sample corresponding to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of melting of the sample is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

Such a cosmetic composition may be fluid or solid at 25 ° C. and at 1 atm.

It can be aqueous or anhydrous, and preferably anhydrous.

It may have a solids content greater than or equal to 42% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 45% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 48% by weight, and preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purpose of the present invention, the "dry matter content" denotes the content of non-volatile matter.

The amount of dry extract (abbreviated as ES) of a composition according to the invention is measured by means of a commercial halogen desiccant "Halogen Moisture Analyzer HR 73" from Mettler TOLEDO. The measurement is based on the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and thus represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatiles have evaporated.

This technique is described in particular in the device documentation provided by Mettler TOLEDO.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

About 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, is spread on a metal cup which is introduced into the halogen desiccant mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 120 ° C until a constant weight is obtained. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured by means of a precision balance. The experimental error related to the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%.

The content of Dry Extract is calculated as follows:

Dry extract content (expressed in% by weight) = 100 x (Dry mass / Wet mass)

According to a first embodiment, the cosmetic composition is fluid at ambient temperature.

Within the meaning of the invention, the qualification of "fluid" intends to characterize the fact that a composition according to the invention is not solid. In other words, it has sufficient fluidity to be endowed with flow properties. A composition of the mascara type is for example representative of this type of fluidity.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may advantageously have a viscosity of less than 100 Pa.s, preferably of between 0.1 Pa.s and 50 Pa.s, and better still between 1 Pa s and 30 Pa.s, at room temperature and pressure, the viscosity being measured in particular using a Rheomat RMI00® instrument.

Such a composition may be aqueous or anhydrous.

It can be in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, as is the case for emulsions of wax in water. It may also be in the form of a dispersion of wax particles in an anhydrous medium, as is the case with wax dispersion in isododecane.

According to this first embodiment, the cosmetic composition may comprise from 15% to 60% by weight, preferably from 18% to 55% by weight, and still more preferably from 20% to 50% by weight of fusible compound (s) ( s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a second, preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition is solid at ambient temperature.

Within the meaning of the invention, the qualification "solid" intends to characterize the fact that a composition according to the invention is not liquid. In other words, it exhibits sufficient rigidity not to be endowed with flow properties.

The composition may thus advantageously have a viscosity greater than 1000 Pa s, preferably greater than 10000 Pa s at ambient temperature and pressure.

Such a composition may be aqueous, in particular in the form of an emulsion or the compound (s) fuse (s) in water, or anhydrous. In particular, it may be in the form of dispersion of the compound (s) fusible (s) in an organic solvent, preferably volatile, preferably hydrocarbon.

Such a cosmetic composition is preferably anhydrous.

According to this second embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises from 40% to 100% by weight, preferably from 60% to 100% by weight, and still more preferably from 80% to 100% by weight of fusible compound (s). ), relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may be subjected to heating means before and / or during application.

These heating means are adapted to melt at least a portion of the fusible compound (s) of the cosmetic composition.

The composition may be heated locally at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 ° C, or even greater than or equal to 50 ° C, or greater than or equal to 55 ° C.

The temperature at which at least a portion of the composition is heated may be between 45 ° C and 120 ° C, more preferably between 45 ° C and 85 ° C.

For example, the temperature may be measured on the surface using an infrared pyrometer, for example a FlukeR® brand.

Only the heated composition can come into contact with the keratinous fibers, for example eyelashes, during application.

It is understood that the temperature of the cosmetic composition should not cause a risk of burning at the time of application.

Thus, when the composition is heated before application, a waiting time between the moment when the composition is heated and the application to the keratin materials may possibly be necessary.

According to an alternative embodiment, the composition is heated simultaneously with its application to keratinous fibers.

According to another variant embodiment, the composition is heated before and during its application on the keratinous fibers. The total melting enthalpy of the composition is the enthalpy consumed by the composition between -20 ° C. and 120 ° C. The total melting enthalpy of the composition is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 ° C or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of composition is placed in a crucible then is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C. to 120 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, and then is cooled by 120 ° C. C at -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / min. The sample is maintained at -20 ° C for 5 minutes, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute.

During the second rise in temperature, the variation of the power difference absorbed by an empty crucible and the crucible containing the sample of the composition is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The enthalpy of melting of the composition consumed at the temperature Te is the amount of energy required Ah to change the composition from the solid or highly viscous state from -20 ° C. to the state of the composition at the temperature Te. . It is expressed in J / g.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition is chosen so that when said composition is heated to the temperature Te, the ratio of the enthalpy consumed between -20 ° C. and Te by the composition on the Total consumed enthalpy Ah between -20 ° C and 120 ° C, is greater than 0.4.

This relationship is for example verified for a temperature Te of the composition between 45 ° C and 85 ° C.

The choice of the temperature Te at which the composition is fed by the heating means can thus be done so that said ratio is greater than or equal to 0.4, for example greater than 0.5. In other words, heating to a temperature such that the ratio of the enthalpy supplied to heat the composition sample to the temperature Te on the total enthalpy is greater than or equal to 0.4, such a parameter being measured according to the protocol DSC described above.

The composition according to the invention, when thermofusible, is capable of passing from a solid state to a state that is at least partially liquid or even totally liquid, preferably and reversibly.

As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention comprises a content of fusible compound (s) greater than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it may comprise a content of fusible compound (s) ranging from 15% to 100%, better still from 20% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Within the meaning of the invention, the (the) fusible compound (s) present (have) advantageously a melting point between 40 ° C and 120 ° C.

Preferably, this (these) compound (s) may be chosen from thermoplastic polymers, waxes, semi-crystalline polymers, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the fusible compound (s) may be provided with crystallizable chains.

In this embodiment, the cosmetic composition is then heated to a temperature Te such that at least a portion of the crystallizable chains of the fusible compound (s) are melted at least partially or completely. The change of solid / liquid state is thus due, at least in part, to the melting of a crystalline part of the fuse (s) compound (s).

Preferably, the fusible compound (s) according to the invention are not in the form of a particulate dispersion in a solvent medium.

Thermoplastic polymer

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thermoplastic polymer", a polymer that softens and can be molded retaining its shape after cooling.

The thermoplastic polymers that can be used in the context of the present invention are any polymer, copolymer or mixture of polymers and / or copolymers having the property of being thermoplastic.

Among the thermoplastic polymers, there may be mentioned polyethylene, polystyrene, polyamides, polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene terephthalate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of aliphatic polyesters, and in particular polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs) such as poly-3-hydroxybutyrate (PHB), polyhydroxyvalerate (PHV) or polyhydroxyhexanoate (PHH), polylactic acids (PLA), polybutylene succinate ( PB S), polycaprolactone (PCL), polyanhydrides, polyvinyl alcohols and their derivatives, acetate esters, such as the copolymer of acetate and polyvinyl (PVAc), starch derivatives, polysaccharides including cellulose derivatives such as cellulose esters, and derivatives thereof, in particular celluloids or cellulose ethers, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, among the cellulose esters, mention may be made of cellulose acetate, cellulose triacetate, cellulose propionate, cellulose acetate propionate, cellulose acetate butyrate, and cellulose sulphate, and their mixtures.

Among the cellulose ethers, there may be mentioned methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, ethyl methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC), hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (HPMC) ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), and mixtures thereof.

Among the acetate esters, there may be mentioned copolymers of acetate and polyvinyl, including ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) and its derivatives. For example, mention may be made of EVA / ethylcellulose or EVA / starch copolymers.

As thermoplastic polymer that is particularly suitable for a composition according to the invention, mention may preferably be made of ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), in particular sold under the name Evatane 28-800 by the company Arkema.

In a cosmetic composition according to the invention, use may especially be made of thermoplastic polymers formulated in a mixture, such as the mixture of ethylene-vinyl acetate and paraffin marketed under the name COOL BIND 34-1300® by the company National Starch .

Preferably, the film-forming polymers considered in the context of the present invention are distinct from particulate dispersions of latex type.

Wax

By "wax" is generally meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. which can up to 200 ° C and especially up to 120 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, and is then cooled from 100 ° C. to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They may in particular be polar or apolar, silicone hydrocarbonaceous and / or fluorinated, optionally having ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin. a) Apolar waxes

By "apolar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, 0a is equal to 0 (J / cm3) / 2.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen: "The three dimensional soluhilityparameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space: - δο characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - δρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; hh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; - δa is determined by the equation: δa = (δρ2 + δh2) 2.

The parameters δρ, δh, δο and δa are expressed in (J / cm3) '2.

The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

The apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

As ozokerite, mention may be made of Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.

Microcrystalline waxes that may be used include Multiwax W 445® sold by Sonnebom, Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by Paramelt, and Cerewax® No. 3 sold by Baerlocher.

As microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, there may be mentioned in particular polyethylene microwires such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.

As polyethylene wax, mention may be made of Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene marketed by New Phase Technologies, Asensa® SC 211 sold by Honeywell. b) Polar wax

By "polar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C δa is different from 0 (J / cm3) 1/2.

In particular, "polar wax" is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone.

Preferably, the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based.

By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

It is especially possible to use as polar waxes those as chosen from: i) waxes of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 ° C to 120 ° C. ii) di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3 - (- OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (group alkyl comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a C4-C30 aliphatic group (linear or branched alkyl group comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms) which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and preferably linear and unsaturated. iv) We may also mention the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having C8-C32 linear or branched fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. v) Beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, wax Hydrogenated Jojoba, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax, berry wax.

According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. As alcohol wax, mention may be made, for example, of the wax C30-50 Alcohols Performacol® 550 Alcohol marketed by New Phase Technologie, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point.

By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made especially of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric) .

The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones, as well as (C 2 -C 6) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C 3 -C 4) alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones. or C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-8005® C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning.

In the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned as a particularly advantageous wax beeswax, for example that marketed under the name White Beeswax SP-453P by the company Strahl &amp; Pitsch or paraffin wax.

Semi-crystalline polymer

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). . The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone.

When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 120 ° C.

The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 40 ° C and less than 85 ° C.

The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company, with a temperature rise of 5 °. C or 10 ° C per minute. The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram.

Apart from crystallizable chains or blocks, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous. By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.

The crystallizable sequences or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers may represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. Crystallizable side-chain semi-crystalline polymers are homo- or copolymers. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable sequences are copolymers, sequenced or multi-sequenced. They can be obtained by reactive (or ethylenic) double bond monomer polymerization or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are crystallizable side chain polymers, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form.

The semi-crystalline polymers of the invention may be of synthetic origin.

In particular, the semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from: homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable lateral chain (s) hydrophobic (s), polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, polyester polycondensates, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic, metallocene-catalyzed ethylene-propylene copolymers, and acrylate-silicone copolymers.

The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from: - block copolymers of controlled crystallization polyolefins, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897, - polycondensates and in particular of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic type or aliphatic / aromatic, copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or co-polymers carrying in the skeleton at least one sequence crystallizable, such as those described in US 5,156,911, such as the (Cio-C3o) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer® Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer® polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97) and by example the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from the company Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate molecular weight of about 145,000 and whose temp melting point equals 49 ° C, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO 01/19333, acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl acrylate, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate and acrylic acid copolymers, copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers sold by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (CTFA name acrylates / dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane), and mixtures thereof.

In the context of the present invention, poly (C 10 -C 30) alkyl acrylates, for example the one marketed under the name Intelimer IPA 13-1 NG by the company Air Products and Chemical, may be mentioned as particularly advantageous semi-crystalline polymers.

Preferably, in the context of the present invention, the fusible compound (s) are (s) chosen from ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), a beeswax, a paraffin wax, a poly ( Cio-C3o) alkylacrylate, a vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymer and mixtures thereof.

In the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers, for example that sold under the name Mexomere PQ by the company Chimex.

Aqueous phase

The cosmetic composition of an assembly according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase, which can form a continuous phase of the composition.

The aqueous phase may comprise water. It may also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent.

By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the context of the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water.

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned in particular lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, the glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.

The aqueous phase, for example composed of water and optionally a solvent miscible with water, is generally present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 40% to 80% by weight. % to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Volatile solvent

A cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more volatile solvent (s).

In the context of the present invention, the term volatile solvent is understood to mean a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (20 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure and has a vapor pressure at 20 ° C. of greater than 0.1 mmHg and preferably between 0.1 and 300 mmHg, more preferably between 0.5 and 200 mmHg.

This volatile solvent may be water, a non-silicone organic solvent, a silicone organic solvent or mixtures thereof. As a volatile non-silicone organic solvent, mention may be made of: volatile C1-C4 alkanols such as ethanol or isopropanol; volatile C5-C7 alkanes such as n-pentane, hexane, cyclopentane, 2,3-dimethylbutane, 2,2-dimethylbutane, 2-methylpentane or 3-methylpentane; esters of liquid C1-C20 acids and volatile C1-C6 alcohols such as methyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, isopentyl acetate or ethyl 3-ethoxypopionate; room-temperature and volatile ketones such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone; volatile polyols such as propylene glycol; volatile ethers such as dimethoxymethane, diethoxyethane or diethyl ether; volatile glycol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, butyl diglycol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol n-butyl ether or propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate; volatile hydrocarbon oils such as volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular C8-C18 branched alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) in Ce-Cs, isododecane; , isodecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate; volatile perfluoroalkanes C4-C10 such as dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane or decafluoropentane; volatile perfluorocycloalkyls such as perfluoromethylcyclopentane, 1,3-perfluorodimethylcyclohexane and perfluorodecalin, sold respectively under the names "Flutec PC 10", "Flutec PC30" and "Flutec PC60" by the company F2 Chemicals, as well as perfluorodimethylcyclobutane; and perfluoromorpholine; the fluoroalkyl or volatile heterofluoroalkyl compounds corresponding to the following formula: CH 3 - (CH 2) n - [Z] rX-CF 3 in which t is 0 or 1; n is 0, 1, 2 or 3; X is a divalent perfluoroalkyl radical, linear or branched, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and Z represents O, S, or NR, R being a hydrogen, a radical - (CH2) n -CH3 or - (CF2) m -CF3, m being equal to 2, 3, 4 or 5.

Among the volatile fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds, there may be mentioned in particular the methoxynonafluorobutane sold under the name "MSX 4518 (R)", "HFE-7100 (R)" by the company 3M and the ethoxynonafluorobutane sold under the name "HFE-7200 (R) "by 3M Corporation.

Preferably, the solvent is chosen such that its boiling point is below 200 ° C.

According to a particular embodiment, the non-silicone organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, acetone and isododecane. As a volatile silicone solvent, mention may be made of low viscosity silicone compounds chosen from linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for example octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltri-siloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the silicone compound is chosen from cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

According to a particular embodiment, the volatile silicone solvent has a viscosity of less than 50 centistokes.

Preferably, the volatile silicone is cyclic and chosen from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane. By way of example, mention may be made of the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DC-245 by Dow Corning, the octamethyltrisiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 by the company Dow Corning and the decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed under the name DC -200 Fluid 1.5 cSt by the company Dow Corning.

This cyclic volatile silicone generally has a low viscosity, for example a viscosity of less than 5 cSt at 25 ° C.

Preferably, the volatile silicone is cyclic and is decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DC-245 by the company

Dow Corning.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises less than 20% of volatile solvent (s), preferably less than 10% of volatile solvent (s), and even more preferably the cosmetic composition is devoid of solvent (s). ) volatile (s).

In this first embodiment, the composition solidifies when its temperature drops to a value less than or equal to its melting temperature. B. Fluid composition containing particles in the dispersed state

According to a second variant embodiment of the composition, the composition is fluid at ambient temperature and contains at least particles in the dispersed state in a liquid medium, said composition being solidifiable via the aggregation of said particles.

Within the meaning of the invention, the qualification of "fluid" intends to characterize the fact that a composition according to the invention is not solid. In other words, it has sufficient fluidity to be endowed with flow properties.

According to this embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention may advantageously have a viscosity of less than 100 Pa.s, preferably of between 0.01 Pa s and 50 Pa s, preferably of between 0.1 Pa.s and 50 Pa s. Pa.s, and more preferably between 5 Pa s and 50 Pa s, at ambient temperature and pressure, the viscosity being measured in particular using a Rheomat RM100® apparatus.

In the context of the present invention, it is the reorganization of the particles dispersed in the liquid medium which produces the setting of the particles.

To do this, a composition may comprise from 10% to 55% by weight, preferably from 12% to 50% by weight, of particles in the dispersed state, relative to the total weight of the composition.

These particles in the solid state are present in the composition according to the invention in a dispersed state within the associated liquid medium. Thus, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of a colloid or a suspension.

As mentioned above, the cosmetic composition is solidifiable via aggregation of the particles in the dispersed state.

The particles aggregate under the effect of an increase in temperature and / or evaporation of the liquid medium. Thus, the composition changes from a fluid state to a thicker state, and even better to a solid state.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "aggregation" means that a sufficiently cohesive material or deposit is obtained, and that said material or deposit can be isolated.

A macroscopically continuous, and preferably cohesive, deposition is thus obtained. Preferably, an isolable deposit which can be handled individually is obtained. For example, such a deposit can be obtained when the deposit is made by casting on a non-stick surface, such as a surface coated with PTFE or silicone.

Therefore, the present invention is different from a composition that solidifies by aggregation but does not become cohesive. For example, a composition according to the invention is different from a composition containing water and pigments that aggregate when drying. In fact, the deposit obtained will then be pulverulent but not cohesive.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, a fluid cosmetic composition according to the invention provides, after its solidification via the aggregation of particles, a material or cohesive deposit, and preferably insensitive to water. In particular, such a material or cohesive deposit has a water uptake of less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5%, and even more preferably less than or equal to 3%.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "water absorption" means the percentage of water absorbed by the material or the deposit after 60 minutes of immersion in water at 25 ° C. (ambient temperature).

The water uptake is measured for a layer of composition 300 μm thick (before drying), deposited using a 300 μ applicator on a glass plate provided with a layer of teflon tape and then dried for 24 hours. hours at 30 ° C on a thermostatically controlled plate. Three pieces of about 1 cm 2 are cut from the dry film and weighed (measurement of the mass M1) and immersed in water for 60 minutes; after immersion, the piece of film is wiped to remove the excess surface water and weighed again (measurement of mass M2). The difference M2-M1 corresponds to the amount of water absorbed by the film. The water uptake is equal to [(M2-M1) / M1] × 100 and is expressed as a percentage of weight of water relative to the weight of the film.

Thus, according to one embodiment, the aggregation of the particles dispersed in the liquid medium can be induced by evaporation, at least partial or total, of said liquid medium.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the evaporation of said liquid medium takes place at a temperature of between 45 ° C. and 90 ° C., preferably between 50 ° C. and 80 ° C. The evaporation of the liquid medium can also be carried out at ambient temperature, in particular being stimulated by forced ventilation, using for example a hair dryer.

Thus, such a composition according to the invention lends itself to thickening via the partial or total evaporation of the liquid ingredients, most often represented mainly by water.

As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention, subject to this phenomenon of evaporation of liquid ingredients forming its liquid medium, has the advantage of solidifying to ultimately form a fully cohesive solid material.

This phenomenon is to be distinguished from a phase transition in the proper sense, when passing from one state of matter to another, such as crystallization.

As seen above, the cosmetic composition comprises particles in the dispersed state and a liquid medium.

Said liquid medium may for example be chosen from water, ethanol or their mixtures.

The particles in the dispersed state may be chosen from a wax, a film-forming polymer, and mixtures thereof, and in particular may be chosen from a mixture of a film-forming polymer and a wax.

In particular, they may be wax emulsions, microdispersion of wax in water, dispersion of wax in an anhydrous solvent or film-forming polymer dispersed in water.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more film-forming polymer (s) in the form of particles in the dispersed state and a liquid medium.

Wax

It may especially be a wax as defined above.

According to one embodiment of the invention, a composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 0% to 35% by weight, in particular from 5% to 30% by weight of wax (s), or even from 10% to 25% by weight of wax (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a quantity of wax less than 8%, or even less than 3%, and more preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned as a particularly advantageous wax camauba wax, preferably in the form of microdispersion, for example that sold under the name Mexoryl SAP by Chimex.

Film-forming polymer

A composition according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of film-forming polymer (s), and possibly at least one additional film-forming polymer (not present in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles, such as a water-soluble film-forming polymer).

In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposition, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and more preferably a deposit of which the cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said deposit is made by casting on a non-stick surface such as a teflon or silicone surface.

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total dry matter content of polymer (s) film-forming (s) greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and better than or equal to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total dry matter content of polymer (s) film-forming (s) ranging from 10% to 55% by weight, in particular from 12% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, a composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of particles formed from one or more film-forming polymers.

It may also comprise at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer.

Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional film-forming polymer, distinct from particles of film-forming polymer (s) present (s) in the form of aqueous dispersion.

The content of these (these) additional film-forming polymer (s), said water-soluble (s), is preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably still less than or equal to 5% by weight, better than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polymer (s) film-forming (s) in aqueous dispersion

Such a film-forming polymer present in said preparation of the composition in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, are generally called (pseudo) latex, that is to say latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

A dispersion suitable for the invention may comprise one or more types of particles, these particles being able to vary in size, structure and / or chemical nature.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of dry matter of film-forming polymer particles in the form of an aqueous dispersion greater than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a total dry matter content of film-forming polymer (s) in the form of an aqueous dispersion greater than or equal to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total dry matter content of polymer particles (s) film-forming (s) ranging from 10% to 55% by weight, better from 12% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition.

The total content of particles of film-forming polymer (s) present (s) in the form of aqueous dispersion (s) is preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight. , based on the total weight of the particles.

These particles may be of anionic, cationic or neutral nature and may constitute a mixture of particles of different natures.

Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures. In general, these polymers may be random polymers, block copolymers of AB type, multi-block ABA, or even ABCD type of graft polymers.

Radical film-forming polymer:

By "radical polymer" is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers including ethylenic, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be homopolymers or copolymers, acrylic and / or vinylic.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.

As ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group or monomer bearing an acid group, it is possible to use α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, and acid. maleic, itaconic acid. In particular, (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more particularly (meth) acrylic acid.

The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 20 alkyl, more particularly C 1 -C 10 -alkyl, (meth) acrylates, in particular C 6 -C 10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl.

Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

The esters of (meth) acrylic acid are in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, ie some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide and Nt-octyl acrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene of alpha-methyl styrene.

The list of monomers given is not limiting and it is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art falling into the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified with a silicone chain).

As the vinyl polymer, it is also possible to use silicone acrylic polymers.

Mention may also be made of the polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers, inside and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes and polyureas. , polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called "hybrid polymers".

Polvcondensat:

As film-forming polymer of the polycondensate type, mention may be made of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea / polyurethanes, silicone polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

The film-forming polyurethane may be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane or polyurea, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymer, comprising, alone or as a mixture, at least one sequence chosen from: a sequence of aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic polyester origin and and / or aromatic, and / or a silicone sequence, branched or unbranched, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or a sequence comprising fluorinated groups.

The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention may also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters or from alkyds containing mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro , diamino or hydroxyamino), further comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or a tertiary amine neutralizable group or a quaternary ammonium group.

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may also be made of polyesters, polyester amides, fatty-chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.

The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols. The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-acid. dimethylgluratic acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-acid, cyclohexanedicarbocylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-acid naphthalene dicarboxylic. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are chosen in particular.

The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. In particular, a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol and 4-butanediol is used. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane.

The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As the diamine, there can be used ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta or para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

Polymer of natural origin:

Naturally occurring polymers, optionally modified, such as shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, water-insoluble cellulosic polymers such as nitrocellulose, water-soluble polymers, can be used in the present invention. modified cellulose esters including especially carboxyalkylcellulose esters such as those described in patent application US 2003/185774, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is chosen from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyesters dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions. vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer dispersions, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride, polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymer dispersions, core-shell particle dispersions and mixtures thereof.

The following are various types of aqueous dispersions, especially commercial dispersions, suitable for the preparation of the composition according to the present invention. 1 / Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer.

The acrylic polymer may be a styrene / acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one C 1 -C 18 alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer.

As styrene monomer usable in the invention include for example styrene or alpha-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene.

The (C 1 -C) alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer is in particular a C 1 -C 12 alkyl (meth) acrylate and more particularly a C 1 -C 10 alkyl (meth) acrylate. The (C 1 -C) alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, methacrylate and the like. butyl, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate and stearyl (meth) acrylate.

As acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use according to the invention the styrene / acrylate copolymer sold under the name "Joncryl SCX-8211®" by the company BASF or "Syntran 5760cg" by the company Interpolymer, the acrylic polymer marketed under the name reference "Acronal® DS-6250" by BASF, acrylic copolymer "Joncryl® 95" by BASF. 2 / According to one embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane particles and / or polyether polyurethane in particular anionic.

The anionic character of the polyester-polyurethanes and polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in their constituent units of groups with a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function.

The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally marketed in the form of aqueous dispersions.

The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from about 20% to about 60% by weight based on the total weight of the dispersion.

Among the dispersions of anionic polyester-polyurethane used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of the product sold under the name "Avalure UR 405®" by the company Noveon or "Baycusan Cl004" by the company BAYER MATERIAL SCIENCE.

Among the dispersions of anionic polyether polyurethane particles that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the name "Avalure UR 450®" by the company Noveon, and under the name "Néorez R 970®" by the company DSM.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a mixture of commercial dispersions consisting of anionic polyester-polyurethane particles as defined above and anionic polyether-polyurethane particles also defined above.

For example, it is possible to use a mixture consisting of the dispersion marketed under the name "Sancure 861®" or a mixture of the one marketed under the name "Avalure UR 405®" and that marketed under the name "Avalure UR 450". ®, these dispersions being marketed by the company NOVEON. 3 / According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion used comprises a mixture of at least two film-forming polymers in the form of distinct particles by their respective glass transition temperatures (Tg).

In particular, according to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one first film-forming polymer in the dispersed state and at least one second film-forming polymer in the dispersed state, said first and second polymers having different Tg and preferably the Tg of the first polymer (Tgi) is greater than the Tg of the second polymer (¾). In particular, the difference between Tgi and Tg2 is in absolute value, at least 10 ° C, preferably at least 20 ° C.

More specifically, it comprises in an acceptable aqueous medium: a) particles dispersed in the aqueous medium of a first film-forming polymer having at least a glass transition temperature Tgi greater than or equal to 20 ° C, and b) particles dispersed in the aqueous medium of a second film-forming polymer having at least a glass transition temperature Tg2 of less than or equal to 70 ° C.

This dispersion generally results from a mixture of two aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer.

The first film-forming polymer has at least one glass transition temperature Tgi greater than or equal to 20 ° C., in particular ranging from 20 ° C. to 150 ° C., and advantageously greater than or equal to 40 ° C., in particular ranging from 40 ° C. to 150 ° C. ° C, and in particular greater than or equal to 50 ° C, in particular ranging from 50 ° C to 150 ° C.

The second film-forming polymer has at least one glass transition temperature Tg2 less than or equal to 70 ° C., in particular ranging from -120 ° C. to 70 ° C., and in particular lower than 50 ° C., in particular ranging from -60 ° C. to +50.degree. C., and more particularly from -30.degree. C. to 30.degree.

The measurement of the glass transition temperature (Tg) of a polymer is carried out by DMTA (Dynamic and Mechanical Temperature Analysis) as described below.

To measure the glass transition temperature (Tg) of a polymer, viscoelasticimetry tests were performed with a DMTA apparatus of "Polymer Laboratories" on a film sample. This film is prepared by casting the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer in a Teflon matrix and then dried at 120 ° C. for 24 hours. A film is then obtained in which the specimens are cut (for example by punching). These typically have a thickness of about 150 μm, a width of 5 to 10 mm and a useful length of about 10 to 15 mm. This sample is imposed a tensile stress. The sample is subjected to a static force of 0.01 N superimposed on a sinusoidal displacement of ± 8 μm at a frequency of 1 Hz. This is done in the linear domain under low deformation levels. This tensile stress is performed on the sample at temperatures ranging from -150 ° C to +200 ° C, with a temperature variation of 3 ° C per minute.

The complex modulus E * = E '+ iE "of the tested polymer is then measured as a function of temperature.

From these measurements, one deduces the dynamic modules E ', E "and the damping power: tgs = E''/E'.

Then the curve of the values of tgs is plotted as a function of the temperature; this curve has at least one peak. The glass transition temperature Tg of the polymer corresponds to the temperature at which the peak of this peak is located.

When the curve has at least 2 peaks (in this case, the polymer has at least 2 Tg), the value of Tg of the tested polymer is taken as the temperature for which the curve has a peak of greater amplitude (ie ie, corresponding to the largest value of tgs, in this case only the "majority" Tg is considered as the Tg value of the tested polymer).

In the present invention, the transition temperature Tgi corresponds to the "majority" Tg (in the meaning defined above) of the first film-forming polymer when the latter has at least 2 Tg; the glass transition temperature Tg2 corresponds to the "majority" Tg of the second film-forming polymer when the latter exhibits at least 2 Tg ·

The first film-forming polymer and the second film-forming polymer may be chosen, independently of one another, from free-radical polymers, polycondensates and polymers of natural origin as defined previously, having the glass transition temperature characteristics defined above. .

As the first film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use the aqueous polymer dispersions sold under the names "NeoRez R-989®" by the company DSM, "Joncryl 95" and "Joncryl® 8211" by the company BASF.

As the second film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use, for example, the aqueous polymer dispersions sold under the names "Avalure® UR-405", "Avalure® UR-460" by the company NOVEON or "Acrilem IC89RT®" by the company ICAP, Neocryl A-45 by the company DSM.

The film-forming polymer of the aqueous dispersion "Avalure® UR-460" is a polyurethane obtained by the polycondensation of tetramethylene polyoxide, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate and dimethylol propionic acid.

According to a very particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the combination of styrene / acrylate polymer dispersion such as the dispersion marketed under the reference "Joncryl 8211®" by BASF is used as the first and second film-forming polymers in aqueous dispersion. acrylic polymer dispersion such as the dispersion marketed under the reference "Neocryl A-45®" by DSM.

According to another preferred embodiment, a dispersion of acrylic polymer such as the dispersion marketed under the reference "Joncryl 95®" by BASF is used as the first film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion and, as a second film-forming polymer, a dispersion of anionic polyurethane polymer marketed under the reference "Avalure UR405®" by DSM.

As aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use: acrylic dispersions sold under the names "Acronal DS-6250®" by the company BASF, "Neocryl A-45®", "Neocryl XK-90®", "Neocryl A" -1070® "," Neocryl A-1090® "," Neocryl BT-62® "," Neocryl A-1079® "and" Neocryl A-523® "by DSM," Joncryl 95® "," Joncryl 8211 " ® by the company BASF, "Daitosol 5000 AD®" or "Daitosol 5000 SJ" by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; "Syntran 5760 CG" by the company Interpolymer, - the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names "Neorez R-981®" and "Neorez R-974®" by the company DSM, the "Avalure UR-405®", " Avalure UR-410® "," Avalure UR-425® "," Avalure UR-450® "," Sancure 875® "," Avalure UR 445® "," Avalure UR 450® "by the company NOVEON," Impranil 85 ® by the company BAYER, "Baycusan Cl004®" by the company BAYER MATERIAL SCIENCE, - sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name "Eastman AQ®" by Eastman Chemical Products, - vinyl dispersions such as "Mexomère PAM" aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as "Vinybran®" from Nisshin Chemical or those marketed by UNION CARBIDE, aqueous dispersions of terpolymer vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride such as the "Styleze W®" of ISP, polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid aqueous polymer dispersions such as those sold under the references "Hybridur®" by the company AIR PRODUCTS or "Duromer®" by NATIONAL STARCH, -the dispersions core-shell type particles such as those sold by Arkema under the reference "Kynar ®" (heart: fluorinated-bark: acrylic) or those described in US 5,188,899 (core: silica - bark: silicone) and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of particles chosen from aqueous dispersions of acrylic-derived and / or derivative-derived film-forming polymer (s), in particular styrene-acrylic and derivatives thereof, and dispersions aqueous polymer (s) (s) polyurethane (s), in particular polyester-polyurethane, and their derivatives, and their (s) mixture.

In the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned as particularly advantageous film-forming polymer latexes, for example that marketed under the name Syntran 5760 CG by the company INTERPOLYMER

According to a particular embodiment, the total wax content (s) and the total content of particles of film-forming polymer (s) are such that the weight ratio of the wax (es) to the polymer particles. (s) film-forming (s) is greater than or equal to 1/2, better to 2/3.

Preferably, this ratio is included between 1/2 and 2, more preferably between 2/3 and 3/2.

According to one particular embodiment, the total wax content (s) and the total content of particles of film-forming polymer (s), both preferably present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, with the polymer (s) ( s) film-forming agent (s) chosen from aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer (s) and acrylic derivatives, in particular styrene-acrylic and derivatives, and aqueous dispersions of polymer (s) polyester-polyurethane, and mixtures thereof, are such that the weight ratio of the wax particles to said film-forming polymer particles is greater than or equal to 1/2, more preferably 2/3.

For example, this ratio is included between 1/2 and 2, more preferably between 2/3 and 3/2.

Preferably, the particles in the dispersed state may be chosen from a wax, latex, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention consists of a particulate dispersion comprising at least one mixture of a microdispersion of camauba and a latex.

The composition may be packaged in a pressure vessel and comprise a propellant gas under pressure.

During molding, the composition may be heated beyond the vaporization temperature of the liquid medium.

The composition may be ventilated, for example by a flow of air, during molding, so as to accelerate the evaporation of the liquid medium. The opening of the jaws can also contribute to the evaporation of the liquid medium.

A specific absorber of the liquid medium can be introduced during molding or before it. The solvent is then removed at least in part by absorption.

The mold, especially if it is disposable, may comprise a specific absorber in the liquid medium.

The device may comprise a system that aids drying of the composition, the system providing a supply of energy, especially in the form of light or heat, and / or comprising a ventilation circuit, a suction and / or blowing of the composition. 'air. One or both of the jaws of the device may be provided with a system of an admission of drying compounds, such as a calcium salt for example.

The mold may comprise an absorbent material or be covered with absorbent or desiccant material, in particular a ceramic or a porous material, or a chemical active agent capable of absorbing, such as a silica-gel or at least one compound such as an airgel, from clay, bentonite, calcium or cobalt or copper salts (chloride, sulphate), lithium halides, potassium carbonate, magnesium or sodium sulphates, or organic compounds such as sugars.

The keratinous fibers to be treated may be covered with an absorbent material such as the above before they are introduced into the mold. C. Fluid Composition Comprising an Activatable Compound

According to a third embodiment variant of the composition which is particularly suitable for the first, second and third aspects thereof, a cosmetic composition in a process or an assembly according to the invention is fluid at ambient temperature and contains at least one activatable compound by a physical or chemical stimulus, said composition being solidifiable via the transformation of the activated form of said compound into a solid material, by self-reaction and / or interaction with at least one additional compound.

Within the meaning of the invention, the qualification of "fluid" intends to characterize the fact that a composition according to the invention is not solid. In other words, it has sufficient fluidity to be endowed with flow properties.

Thus, such a composition may advantageously have a viscosity of less than 100 Pa.s, preferably of between 0.1 Pa.s and 50 Pa.s, preferably of between 1 Pa.s and 50 Pa.s at temperature and ambient pressure, the viscosity being in particle measured using a Rheomat RM 100® apparatus.

A composition according to this embodiment is suitable for solidification via the transformation of the activated form of an activatable compound into a solid material, by self-reaction and / or interaction with at least one additional compound.

Crosslinking may be AA or AB type.

Thus, the composition is fluid before reaction and becomes solid after reaction.

Within the meaning of the invention, an "activatable" compound is a compound or species that typically reacts in response to a physical or chemical stimulus.

In particular, the physical or chemical stimulus may be a variation of light, for example UV or visible, pH, temperature or humidity, or the presence with at least one reagent, distinct or not, the annexed compound.

Thus, in response to such a stimulus, the activated form of the activatable compound is transformed into a solid material, thereby inducing solidification of the composition containing it.

According to a first embodiment, the composition is solidifiable by self-reaction of the activatable compound.

In this embodiment, the activatable compound reacts with itself or itself in response to a physical or chemical stimulus.

More particularly, the activatable compound is a photosensitive compound.

Thus, the stimulus can be a variation of light, for example UV or visible. Such a stimulus may cause crosslinking of the activatable compound.

Thus, the activatable compound is preferably chosen from acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide-functional monomers, oligomers or polymers and monomers, oligomers or polymers capable of reacting with 2 + 2 or 2 + 4 cycloaddition, such as the compounds stilbazolium.

It may advantageously be methacrylate compounds sold under the name Power Polish ™ Top Coat by the company CND Shellac.

As oligomers or polymers capable of reacting by 2 + 2 or 2 + 4 cycloaddition, mention may in particular be made of polyvinylalcohol / acetate grafted with stilbazolium functions.

According to a second embodiment, the composition is solidifiable by interaction of the activatable compound with at least one additional compound, the interaction being of covalent or non-covalent type.

In this embodiment, the two compounds activable and annex can react quickly, and produce in less than a few minutes, through their transformation, the desired solidification of the composition containing them.

According to a first aspect, the additional compound is a compound present in the atmosphere, for example water or oxygen, and the activatable compound is chosen from a drying oil, a monomer, oligomer or silane-functional polymer, a cyanoacrylate , a reactive silicone, and mixtures thereof.

By "drying oil" is meant an oil which, when spread in a thin layer and then exposed to air, turns into a solid film. In particular, in the context of the present invention, the term "drying oil" is intended to mean oils, and preferably triglycerides, comprising conjugated double bonds, preferably comprising at least two conjugated double bonds, and preferably comprising at least two conjugated double bonds. three conjugated double bonds.

The drying oils according to the invention may be of natural origin. Advantageously, the drying oil may be chosen from drying vegetable oils such as linseed oil, Chinese wood (or Canton) oil, oitica oil, vernonia oil, lemon oil, carnation oil, pomegranate oil, calendula oil, esters of these vegetable oils, alkyd resins obtained from these vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. The alkyd resins are polyesters comprising hydrocarbon chains of fatty acids, obtained in particular by polymerization of polyols and polyacids or their corresponding anhydride, in the presence of fatty acids. These fatty acids are present, especially in the form of triglycerides, in the majority of natural oils, such as in particular the oils mentioned above. The drying oil suitable for carrying out the present invention can be modified by chemical reaction. In particular, it can be refined and / or partially polymerized. As such, there may be mentioned blown oils and standolies, maleinized oils, epoxidized or cooked. The blowing of an oil is characterized in particular by a polymerization of said oil with oxygen in the air.

As cyanocrylate particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of 2-octyl-2-cyanoacrylate stabilized with 1% phosphoric acid, for example RITE LOK CON895, marketed by CHEMENCE.

Advantageously, the activatable compound is ethylcyanoacrylate, especially sold under the name Superglue 3 by the company Loctite can also be cited.

The reactive silicones may be chosen from reactive silicones sensitive to moisture.

Preferably, it will be reactive silicones sold under the name Joint &amp; Fix by the company GEB.

In a second aspect, the activatable compound and the annexed compound respectively have complementary functional groups.

"Complementary functional groups" means groups that are able to react with each other.

Thus, the activatable compound and the annexed compound may be respectively a nucleophilic compound and an electrophilic compound.

As couples of nucleophilic compound and electrophilic compound that are particularly suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned polyols or polyamines to be reacted with polyanhydrides or polyisocyanates.

Preferably, the nucleophilic compound and the electrophilic compound are a polyamine and a polyanhydride or two distinct reactive silicones. As reactive silicones, Platsil gel 10 (A: B) reactive silicones sold by the company Polytek or the product Dow Corning 7-FC4210 ELASTOMER film forming base sold by the company Dow Corning and the Dow product may be particularly particularly mentioned. Corning 7-FC4210 Curing Agent marketed by Dow Corning. As an example of polyamine / polyanhydride, it is possible to use diamino propane to be mixed with GANTREZ AN-119 BF from Ashland.

The activatable compound and the additional compound may also be a cationic polymer and an anionic polymer respectively.

As couples of cationic polymer and anionic polymer that are particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of polyacrylates or polymethacrylates or copolymers (such as UltraHold STrong from BASF) having neutralized acid functions (ammonia, amine, strong base). to be combined with cationic polymers such as JR 400, quaternized polysaccharides (quaternized guar gum of Jaguar C13S type from Rhodia, HEC Quaternized), PolyDADMAC such as POLYQUATERNIUM-7 from NALCO.

The activatable compound and the additional compound can also be a carbonate or alginate compound and a calcium-based compound, respectively.

As carbonate compound, there may be mentioned ammonium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate.

The alginate compounds can be chosen from PROTAN AL PH 6160 from FMC corporation. As calcium-based compounds, mention may be made of calcium chloride and other halides.

Preferably, it is a solution of sodium alginate such as that marketed under the name Kelcosol by the company ISP and an aqueous solution of calcium chloride.

Catalyst

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition further comprises a catalyst, in particular adapted to the acceleration of the reaction. By way of example, in the case of reactive silicones, the catalyst may especially be chosen from titanium derivatives.

The reactivity of the compound or of the composition may be accelerated by conventional routes such as an energy supply, in particular by light or heat, or a catalyst.

The molding device may comprise an admission system for at least one reagent. One or both jaws may have at least two separate reagent inlet systems, wherein the reactants come into contact within the mold cavity (s).

The device may comprise a reagent mixing chamber upstream of the mold cavity or cavities.

The device may comprise a triggering system such as an illuminator, especially an illuminator in IR, UV or visible light. The mold is then preferably transparent to the wavelengths used to trigger the reaction. D. Ductile Composition

According to a fourth embodiment variant of the composition that is particularly suitable for the first and second aspects of the latter as well as in the third aspect, the cosmetic composition is ductile and preferably has a Young's modulus less than or equal to 100 MPa, temperature and ambient pressure.

In this embodiment of the composition, the latter is associated with a deformable mold, under compression or suction.

The term "ductile" is understood to mean the ability of the cosmetic composition to deform plastically without breaking. The break occurs when a defect, such as a crack or a cavity, induced by the plastic deformation, becomes critical and spreads. Ductility therefore reflects the ability of the cosmetic composition to resist this propagation.

Thus, the composition under consideration deforms, under compression or suction, plastically, that is to say that it retains at least partly the deformation that is given to it by the mold, without breaking.

In particular, the composition, under compression or under suction, deforms and conforms to the shape of the keratin fiber or fibers introduced into the cavity or cavities of the deformable mold.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition is deformable at a pressure of between 0.02 bar and 100 bar at room temperature.

In addition, the composition is preferably self-healing, that is to say that it gives a material which, when subjected to mechanical deformation causing it to reveal a crack, said fissure heals and in doing so , the material finds all or part of its integrity. The healing operation is of itself in a time ranging from a few seconds to an hour, simply by contacting the two edges of the crack.

In particular, the composition is preferably pasty, that is to say that the consistency of this composition is intermediate between a solid phase and a liquid phase. The viscosity of a pasty composition is advantageously greater than 0.1 Pa.s, and preferably greater than 1 Pa.s, this at 25 ° C. with a shear rate of 10 s -1, the viscosity being in particular measured using a Rheomat RM100® device.

Thus, the composition in question is pasty enough not to flow under its own weight under the ambient conditions of temperature and pressure. In this case, the composition may advantageously be presented in a form that aids in the integration of keratinous fibers. For example, streaks may be included in the composition. Streaks guide keratin fibers and facilitate integration within the material.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition has a Young's modulus less than or equal to 100 MPa at room temperature and pressure.

In particular, it may have a Young's modulus less than or equal to 10 MPa at room temperature and pressure.

Young's modulus characterizes the resistance of the composition exposed to a mechanical action. Thus, it characterizes the force to be imposed, per unit area, to produce a modification of the composition.

To measure the Young's modulus, tensile tests are carried out. The film is cut into test pieces of rectangular shape, length 80 mm and width 15 mm.

The tests are carried out on an apparatus marketed under the name Lloyd or marketed under the name Zwick under the same conditions of temperature and humidity as for drying, that is to say a temperature of 22 ° C. + / - 2 ° C and a relative humidity of 50% +/- 5%.

The specimens are stretched at a speed of 20 mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 mm +/- 1 mm

In other words, advantageously, the composition according to the invention has in the dry state a deformation at break εΓ greater than or equal to 15%, and preferably greater than or equal to 25%.

The strain at break is determined by tensile tests performed on a sample of a composition of the invention in the form of a film of about 200 μm in thickness.

To carry out these tests, the film is cut into dumbbells with a useful length of 33 ± 1 mm and a useful width of 6 mm. The section (S) of the test piece is then defined as S = width x thickness (cm2); this section will be used for the calculation of the constraint.

The tests are carried out, for example, on a traction device marketed under the name Lloyd® LR5K. The measurements are carried out at ambient temperature (20 ° C.).

The specimens are stretched at a movement speed of 33 mm / min, corresponding to a speed of 100% elongation per minute.

A speed of displacement is thus imposed and the elongation AL of the specimen and the force F necessary to impose this elongation are measured simultaneously. It is from these data AL and F that one determines the parameters stress σ and strain ε.

It is thus obtained a stress curve σ = (F / S) as a function of the deformation ε = ([A] L / L0) x 100, the test being conducted until the test piece is broken, L0 being the length initial test piece.

The breaking strain εΓ is the maximum deformation of the sample before the breaking point (in%).

Moreover, the cosmetic composition may have an elastic recovery of less than or equal to 80%, after a tensile strength of 40%.

Elastic recovery is understood to mean the level of return to its initial length, of a test piece after a tension of 40% then relaxation of the stress. Thus, if the initial length of the specimen is L0, the length after tension of 40%, and the relaxation of the stress is L (t), the recovery R (t) at time t, counted after relaxation, is equal to: 100 x (1 - ((L (t) -Lo) / Lo) / 0.4).

So, if L (t) = L0, then R (t) = 100.

If L (t) = 1.4 x L0, then R (t) = 0.

The recovery test is carried out by first preparing a specimen about 200 μm thick, 6 cm long, and 1 cm wide. If necessary, the test piece is optionally made on a support film whose mechanical impact is considered to be low with respect to the mechanical properties of the test piece. The test piece is subjected to a tension of 40% of its length at a speed of 0.1 mm / s. Then, the constraint is released and wait 1 minute.

The composition is preferably concentrated in dry matter and therefore has a strong adhesion, or a strong "tack". Adhesion can be measured as shown below.

By "FmaX" is meant the maximum tensile force, measured with the aid of an extensometer, necessary to lift off the respective 38 mm 2 surfaces of two supports (A) and (B), rigid, inert, absorbent, placed opposite one another. The surface A is precoated with said composition at a rate of 519 μg / mm 2, dried for 24 hours at 22 ° C. under a relative humidity of 50%. Surface B is uncoated. Then, the two surfaces are subjected for 20 seconds to a compression of 3 Newtons and finally subject for 30 seconds to a speed of 20 mm / minute. The tensile force Fmax required for separating two surfaces of two rigid, inert and non-absorbent supports facing each other and coated with the styling material to be evaluated with the aid of an extensometer is determined. for example a device type LLOYD model LR5K. Solid, rigid, inert and non-absorbent carriers are typically a glass type plastic. According to the invention, the force Fmax is preferably greater than IN, and preferably greater than 4N.

Thus, the cosmetic composition comprises at least 20% by weight of dry material (s), preferably at least 50% by weight of dry material (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one compound chosen from a wax, for example carnauba wax, beeswax and paraffin wax, an oil, a gum such as gum arabic, a modeling clay, a long-chain organic compound such as cetyl phosphate, a polymer having a Tg ranging from -20 ° C to 20 ° C, and mixtures thereof.

In the context of the present invention, the values of Tg (or glass transition temperature) indicated are theoretical Tg values determined from the theoretical Tg of the constituent monomers of the polymer, which can be found in a reference manual. such as Polymer Handbook, 3rd ed, 1989, John Wiley, according to the following relationship, known as Fox's Law:

GOi being the mass fraction of the monomer i in the sequence under consideration and Tg, being the glass transition temperature of the homopolymer of the monomer i.

Thus, unless otherwise indicated, the Tg of the polymers in the present application are theoretical Tg values.

Wax

Particularly suitable as waxes are those described above.

In this variant, there may be mentioned as a particularly advantageous wax camauba wax, beeswax and paraffin wax.

Oil As oils suitable for the invention may be mentioned: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R 1 + R 2 is> 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, palmitate, and the like. isopropyl, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, - esters of polyols and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, like the 2-o ctyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, - higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, - non-phenylated silicone oils, as for example caprylyl methycone, and - phenyl silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as the mixtures of these different oils.

Gum As a gum suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum cassava, gum-lac, shellac, gum karaya, gum tara or gellan gum.

In the context of the present invention, gum arabic can be mentioned as gum particularly advantageous. Modeling Clay As a modeling paste that is suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of platicin, plasticine or clastilene. They are characterized by their malleability and the fact that they do not dry and thus retain their malleability.

Long-chain organic compound As an organic compound that is suitable for the present invention, mention may notably be made of long-chain carbonaceous oils, especially of Cis and more.

In the context of the present invention, mention may be made, as long-chain organic compound which is particularly advantageous, of cetyl phosphate.

Polymer having a Tz varying from -20 ° C to 20 ° C as a polymer having a Tg ranging from -20 ° C to 20 ° C suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of polypropylenes, or else acrylic, methacrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyester of higher Tg, but whose Tg of the final material was lowered by the use of a plasticizer.

In particular, mention may be made of the sulfonic polyester sold in particular under the name AQ 1350 polyester sulfonic acid by the company Eastman Chemicals whose Tg is close to 0 ° C.

The composition may, under pressure, be deformed and conform to the shape of the keratinous fiber or fibers, in particular human fibers, introduced into the mold cavity (s).

It deforms under compression in a plastic way, that is to say that it retains at least partly the deformation that is given to it by the mold.

In this case, the molding device is preferably adapted to compression. Thus, the device may comprise one or more deformable mold parts under compression. The one or more mold parts may thus comprise at least one elastically deformable material, in particular an elastomeric material and / or a plastic material.

Coloring matter

In all of the variants A. to D. detailed above, it is advantageous that the composition preferably comprises at least one dyestuff, in particular of black color or of another one or more other colors.

New bi- or multicolored effects can be created.

The composition may be substantially the same color as those of the additional fibers where appropriate.

This (or these) dyestuff (s) is (or are) preferably chosen from pulverulent materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres, preferably from pigments.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, and also oxides of iron, titanium or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D type pigments &amp; C, and lacquers based on carmine cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, the nacres Timiron marketed by Merck, nacres based on mica Prestige marketed by the company Eckart and nacres based on Sunshine synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical.

The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D &amp; C Red 17, D &amp; C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D &amp; C Yellow 11, D &amp; C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, yellow quinoline, annatto.

Preferably, the pigments contained in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from metal oxides.

A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one particulate dyestuff or not, water-soluble or not, and preferably at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the dyestuffs considered and its adjustment is clearly within the competence of the man of the art.

These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 6% to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the dye (s) is (are) chosen from one or more metal oxide (s) present (s) at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to total weight of the composition, advantageously between 6% and 22% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description, non-limiting examples of implementation thereof, and on examining the appended drawing in which: FIG. 1 represents an example molding device according to the invention, in the open position, - Figure 2 shows the device of Figure 1 in the closed position, - Figure 3 shows the device of Figure 1 in top view along the arrow III, - the FIG. 4 schematically represents the electronic circuit of the device of FIGS. 1 to 3; FIG. 5 represents the evolution of the temperature over time in the case of the use of a hot-melt composition with the device of FIGS. 3, FIG. 6 represents different steps of the method implemented with the device of FIGS. 1 to 3 in the case of the use of a hot-melt composition, FIG. 7 represents a mold part with fingerprints. providing the formation of rectilinear molding cavities; FIG. 8 is a perspective view of an example of a mold part for effecting an increased eyelash effect with outward pointing points; FIG. analogous to FIG. 8 of an alternative embodiment of the mold part; FIG. 10 is a view from above according to the arrow X of FIG. 9; FIG. 11 represents another example of formation of branches during the FIG. 12 illustrates an example of an evolutive makeup; FIGS. 13 to 15 are views similar to FIG. 12 of other examples of evolutive makeup; FIG. 16 represents an example of a mold part allowing the formation of a concave band of composition on the eyelashes; - Fig. 17 is a cross-section of the mold part of Fig. 16; - Fig. 18 illustrates an eyelash fringe on which the band has been molded; - Fig. 19 represents variant embodiment of the mold part, and - Figure 20 shows an article comprising a preformed curvilinear composition strip according to the third aspect of the invention; - Figure 21 shows in section an example of a curved mold part; FIGS. 22 and 23 show another example of an assembly according to the invention, in the form of a clamp, respectively with the jaws of the mold closed in the molding configuration and open, FIG. 24 schematically represents an example of a mold before closing. FIGS. 25A and 25B, 26, 27 and 28 show other examples of devices according to the invention in the form of a clamp, the molds not being shown, FIGS. 25A and 25B illustrating a similar example of a device respectively with With the jaws closed and open, FIG. 26 shows the device of FIGS. 25A and 25B, the finger receiving housings having been disassembled, FIGS. There are various steps in the use of an exemplary demolding system, FIG. 30 shows another example of a mold before closing, FIG. 31 shows an example of a device part equipped with blades, FIGS. 33 show two examples of connection of an additional fiber to an eyelash with a composition according to the invention, - Figures 34A and 34B respectively represent a mold part with fibers waiting, before introduction of eyelashes and the composition, and the mold part after placement of the eyelashes and introduction of the composition, - Figures 35 and 36 show a cavity comprising an eyelash and a cavity having a plurality of eyelashes, - Figures 37A to 37E show in FIG. cutting examples of arrangements of the composition according to the invention before molding, within a mold cavity into which an eyelash is introduced; - FIG. 38 represents an example of an injection channel communicating with With Fig. 39A, 39B and 39C illustrate various steps of an exemplary compression molding, and Figs. 40A and 40B illustrate an example of mold compression.

The molding device 1 shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 comprises a box 100 that can be manipulated by the user, with a frame 101 whose upper part 102 carries a first jaw with a first mold part 2a.

The frame 100 has amounts 103 between which can move a second jaw with a second mold part 2b, carried by a slider 104.

The latter can be moved between a low position, represented in FIG. 1, insertion of the eyelashes between the jaws, and a raised position, illustrated in FIG. 2, in which the two mold parts 2a, 2b are close to each other or contact for molding the composition on the eyelashes. The two jaws can be urged in the open position by a spring, not shown.

The lower jaw carrying the mold part 2b is traversed, as can be seen in FIG. 3, by an electrical resistor 110 which for example extends in the form of crenellations.

The lower jaw may extend cantilevered relative to the housing 100 a distance s, as well as the upper jaw.

The electrical resistance 110 is for example a length of 10 cm.

Each of the lower and upper jaws preferably comprises a metal plate, for example aluminum.

The aluminum plate which carries the lower part 2b of the mold is for example 2 cm wide and 2 cm long. This plate is fixed by bonding with the electrical resistance on the slide 104.

The travel upward movement of the lower mold part 2b between the configurations of Figures 1 and 2 is for example between 1 and 3 cm, and preferably of the order of 2 cm. The intensity of the current flowing through the electrical resistance 110 is chosen for example so as to obtain a temperature of 80 ° C. at the level of the aluminum plate of the lower jaw in less than 20 seconds, starting from an initial temperature of 24 ° C in an environment at 24 ° C.

The housing 100 can house an electronic circuit 600 for controlling the operation of the device 1, shown schematically in FIG. 4.

In the example considered, an electric switch 601 is actuated from the upward movement of the lower jaw to allow the electronic circuit 600 to be informed, and a temperature sensor 602 is integrated in the lower jaw to allow to know its temperature.

The device 1 can integrate a vibrator 605, controlled by the electronic circuit 600. This vibrator is for example integrated in the housing 100, near the frame 103, or one of the jaws. The frequency of the vibrations is for example 100 Hz, and the amplitude of the vibrations of 0.3 mm

The device 1 may comprise, where appropriate, one or more Peltier elements 610 to accelerate the cooling, integrated in the jaws.

The electronic circuit 600 comprises a controller arranged for, as illustrated in FIG. 6, in a first step 700, to maintain the temperature of the mold at a preheating set value Tm, for example less than or equal to 15 degrees Celsius at the temperature of melting of the cosmetic composition.

This preheating can only be applied to the mold part in which the composition is received before the mold is closed, in particular when the composition is only received in the cavities of one of the mold parts, for example the lower part 2b. as in the example of Figures 1 and 2. In this case, the preheating is performed only on the lower part of the mold.

When the user initiates the heating of the composition at a temperature Ti greater than Tf, for example greater by more than 5 ° C to the melting temperature Tf of the composition, in step 710, the electronic circuit 600 regulates the current in the heating resistor 110 so as to reach the temperature Ti and then to keep it in step 711. The reaching of the temperature Ti may be signaled to the user for example by an audible and / or visual signal, for example lighting a warning light on the housing 100. The user positions his eyelashes between the mold parts 2a and 2b and when he considers that the positioning is correct, he proceeds at the instant ti closing the mold by acting on the slider 104 to bring the mold part 2b closer to the other part 2a.

The approximation of the jaws is detected in step 712 by the contactor 601 which changes state. The electronic circuit 600 is arranged to, in this case, interrupt the heating in step 713 and, if necessary, in the presence of one or more Peltier elements 610, accelerate cooling using these elements.

FIG. 5 shows the evolution of the temperature T between the moment at which the user triggers the heating of the composition to reach the value Ti and that where the approach of the jaws of the mold parts begins.

Immediately after stopping the heating at time ti, the vibrator 605 is turned on, when it is present in the device 1.

The composition is cooled down, the melting point is reached at time t2 and the temperature reaches a value Te at instant te with Te <Tf. The user can then be informed that the composition is frozen by the emission of an audible and / or visual signal, for example the lighting of a corresponding indicator on the housing 100.

When the temperature Te is reached, the stop of the vibrator 605 can be controlled by the circuit 600 in step 716 and the user can open the mold parts to remove the eyelashes.

This method, which corresponds to the fourth aspect of the invention above, is implemented with a hot-melt composition as described in chapter A above and with eyelash molding cavities which may have any shape, and in particular from mold parts having rectilinear and parallel indentations 4 as shown in Figure 7.

However, this method is advantageously implemented with mold parts made according to the first, second or third aspect of the invention.

FIG. 8 shows a mold part 2a or 2b allowing the formation of multiple tips by molding the composition on the eyelashes, for example using the device 1 shown in FIGS. 1 to 3.

Each individual cavity 4 of the mold part has on the proximal side a single-piece section and which splits in two in a branch 120 to form two branches 121, also called spikes.

Thus, in view from above, the mold part has lash-receiving impressions each Y-shaped. The junction 120 is located for example along the individual cavity at a distance from the proximal end thereof. which is between 1/3 and 2/3 of its length, the branch being preferably located as illustrated at more than half the length of the cavity.

When using a mold having such a mold part, the eyelashes can be introduced into each individual cavity for a length less than the distance separating the junction 120 from the inlet of the cavity on the proximal side, so that to form a double tip for each eyelash introduced into an individual cavity.

Multiple spikes can also be made with X-shaped fingerprints 4, as shown in FIGS. 9 and 10.

It is seen on these that each footprint comprises two branches 130 which intersect in a branch 131 located for example between 1/3 and 2/3 of the length of the cavity measured along its longitudinal axis Xc.

In the example considered, this branch 130 is at a distance lc from the proximal end 133 of the cavity less than half its length, measured along the longitudinal axis of the cavity.

The section of each leg 130 may be tapering towards its distal end 137 as shown in FIG.

In the example considered, each branch 130 is rectilinear but it is possible, in a non-illustrated variant, to use non-rectilinear, intersecting branches.

In use, the eyelashes are at least partially introduced into each of only one branch of an X pattern, or alternatively two consecutive eyelashes are introduced into the two branches of the same pattern.

It is possible to make a mold with cavities which intersect at several points, so as to form a grid on the eyelashes, as illustrated in FIG. 11. In this figure, it is shown that the result of the molding, without making the eyelashes appear. . Such a grid may help to smooth the fringe of eyelashes and thus to discipline it, especially in the presence of bushy eyelashes. The mold may comprise on each mold part an imprint which constitutes a half-grid. The eyelashes are sandwiched between the two closed half grids on the two mold parts.

It can be seen in FIG. 11 that the mold may comprise cavities making it possible to produce X-shaped patterns and other cavities of inverted V-shaped patterns or rectilinear branches that converge towards the outside without joining one another.

It is possible according to the second aspect of the invention, to produce mold cavities whose shape and / or spacing or orientation evolves along the mold, so as to allow the formation, on the eyelashes, of the patterns. molded which vary along the eyelash fringe, as shown in Figure 12. In this figure, the eyelashes themselves have not been represented, for the sake of clarity.

It is thus possible to have on a first zone ZI a first type of pattern formed on the eyelashes, then along a zone Z2 a second type of pattern, and finally along a zone Z3 a third type of pattern, all reasons being different.

FIG. 13 illustrates a progressive makeup corresponding to a mold cavity length that tends to grow along the baseline from one end to the opposite end.

The length can grow steadily or not. The angle α of the molded pattern with respect to the normal to the eyelid may also change, increasing for example with the length of the cavities. The angle has for example from 0 ° to 30 ° when the length increases. The length of the molded patterns passes, for example, from 3 mm to 15 mm.

FIG. 14 represents a multi-zone evolutionary make-up with lateral zones Z 1 and Z 3 with rectilinear cavities of different lengths and a central zone Z 2 with Y-patterns.

FIG. 15 represents an evolutionary make-up where the density of patterns molded along the base line varies, being for example substantially the same for the lateral zones Z 1 and Z 3 and higher by the central zone Z 2.

FIGS. 16 and 17 show an alternative mold part 2a or 2b intended for forming a band of composition molded on the eyelashes, according to the third aspect of the invention.

The mold part preferably includes, near its proximal edge 150 as illustrated, a groove 160, also called a groove, concave towards the proximal edge 150. This groove 160 is curvilinear and follows the curvilinear shape of the proximal edge 150 of the part of mold.

Such a groove 160 allows the formation by molding on the eyelashes 7 of a composition band 170, which has a curvilinear shape, as shown in Figure 18 and which follows the contour of the eyelid P or the adjacent brow bone.

The mold portion may include only this curvilinear groove 160, to form only the band of composition on the eyelashes to connect them and help to discipline them.

Each mold part may comprise a single groove 160, the two grooves superimposed when the two mold parts are brought into contact on the eyelashes, and a cavity for molding a single band of composition.

As a variant, only one of the mold parts, preferably the lower part 2b, comprises the groove 160, the other being devoid of it.

The groove 160 is preferably made at a small distance dg from the proximal edge 150, preferably <2mm, better 1mm

As illustrated in FIG. 19, the mold part 2a or 2b may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned groove 160, a plurality of individual lash-receiving impressions 4 which allow the molding formation not only of the composition band 170 but also molding the composition on each lash, in order to sheath and / or form extensions or multiple branches, as detailed above, subject to adapt the appropriate shape.

It is possible to produce out of the eyelash fringe, with mold parts 2a, 2b as illustrated in FIG. 19, an article 200 having a preformed composition band 210, carrying a plurality of fibers 220, as illustrated in FIG. Figure 20.

Such an article 200 may be applied after its manufacture on a fringe of eyelashes by melting at least partially the composition band using a heating applicator device, similar to an eyelash curler, for example. This allows, on the one hand, to obtain a liner effect on the eyelid, by the proximity or contact of the composition band 210 with the eyelid or the skin of the brow bone and, on the other hand, the made of the presence of the fibers 220, to increase the density of eyelashes.

It can be seen that the lower mold part 2b can be curved if necessary, as illustrated in FIG. 21, in order to reproduce the curved shape of the eyelashes, the radius of curvature preferably being between 15 and 25 mm.

The proximal edge of the mold part 2b intended to come into contact with the eyelid may have a radius of curvature of between 15 and 25 mm

The device 1 can be, according to an alternative embodiment of the invention, in the form of a clamp, as shown in Figures 22 and 23.

Like the device shown in Figures 1 to 3, this device in the form of clamp comprises a mold 2 in two parts 2a and 2b elastomer. The two parts 2a and 2b of the mold 2 have, for example, each a thickness e of about 2 mm. The two parts 2a and 2b of the mold 2 comprise imprints 4, which are suitable for implementing the invention according to its first or its second aspect for example. The device 1 comprises two jaws 3a and 3b which respectively carry the mold parts 2a and 2b. The operation can be performed in the same manner as described with reference to Figure 6 so as to implement the invention according to its fourth aspect.

Each portion 2a, 2b for example comprises about fifteen indentations 4, for example of width / of about 0.5 mm, of length L of about 2.5 cm, and of semicircular cross-section decreasing on a part at least their length so as to give a tapered appearance to the eyelashes once molded by the composition 6. The impressions 4 of each portion 2a, 2b of the mold 2 are preferably, as illustrated, substantially parallel to each other at least on the proximal side of the mold. The footprints can be regularly spaced, in a pitch p 1.5 mm, center to center.

The mold 2a, 2b may have a radius of curvature in the direction M of Figure 23 between 15 and 25 mm in order to match the shape of the eyelashes. The edge of the portion 2b intended to come into contact with the eyelid may be rounded in shape, concave towards the outside, with a radius of curvature preferably between 15 and 25 mm.

The edges of the jaws 3a, 3b and the mold 2a, 2b intended to come into contact with the eyelid may be rounded in shape, concave outwards, in particular circular, the edge of the eyelid describing a first approximation of a circular arc.

When the jaws are closed against each other, as shown in Figure 22, cavities 5 are formed through fingerprints 4 which are superimposed in pairs. Thus, for example, about fifteen cavities are created. The cavities are closed on the sides and open outwards, on the front, proximal, insertion of the eyelashes, by a circular opening through which the eyelashes are introduced. The cavities can be closed at their rear, distal end.

The device 1 in the form of a clamp may comprise, as illustrated, two housings 20a, 20b in which fingers of one hand, for example the thumb and the index finger, can be introduced to move the two jaws 3a, 3b, in order to allow to introduce the eyelashes together and to close them on them.

The cosmetic composition 6 to be molded is placed in impressions 4 of the part 2b of the mold 2 before introduction of the eyelashes. The composition 6 is preferably a cosmetic composition having a melting point of between 40 ° C. and 120 ° C., and comprising at least 15% by weight of fusible compound (s), relative to the total weight of the composition. as previously described.

Only one of the mold parts may have cavities, which is particularly advantageous for a device 1 without a guiding system, the connection between the two parts of the mold does not need to be performed very easily. precise. By way of example, FIG. 24 shows a device 1 in which the part 2a of the mold 2 is smooth and the part 2b has semicircular imprints 4.

Furthermore, each cavity 5 may have an elongated shape that does not reproduce the curvature of the eyelash or eyelashes introduced, the cavity being particularly non-curved along its longitudinal direction, being for example of rectilinear longitudinal axis.

The device 1 in the form of a clamp may comprise a guiding system, for example in the form of reliefs of complementary shapes, causing the jaws 3a, 3b to be positioned in order to match the two parts of the mold 2a, 2b precisely between each other. The device 1 in the form of clamp can thus comprise for example a guide system by male and female cones.

The clip device 1 may comprise a film hinge-type guiding system or other hinge form 40, as shown in FIGS. 25A and 25B, so that the jaws can be brought together by a pivoting movement of one with respect to the other. Each cavity formed by the superimposition of two cavities may be of rectilinear longitudinal axis. The front edges of the jaws 3a, 3b intended to come into contact with the eyelid may be circular in shape, as illustrated.

When using the device 1, the angle that the molding plane makes with the horizontal may be zero or non-zero, in particular between 20 and 40 °, as illustrated in FIG. the plane of the molds can best stall the curvature of the edge coming into contact with the eyelid of the curvature of the eyelid itself.

The hinge 40 may comprise one or more springs 50 as shown in Figure 27, assisting the opening movement for example.

The device 1 in the form of clamp may comprise a single housing 20a for receiving a finger, as shown in Figure 28 or two housings, as described above.

The housing or housing 20a, 20b can be rotated, which allows adjustment according to the angle between the thumb and the index of the user. They may be positionable where appropriate at different points 60a, 60b, or 60c, depending on the desired distance between the fingers and the face of the user, as shown in FIG. 26.

Each mold part 2a, 2b can be integrated with the corresponding jaw 3a, 3b. The device 1 in the form of clamp can then be made of a flexible material of the silicone type for example, to facilitate demolding.

The mold can also be made of a flexible material of silicone type with inclusion of a rigid frame. The housing or the housing 20a, 20b may be made of a rigid material, to improve the holding of the clamps and the overall shape of the mold, while facilitating demolding.

The mold 2a, 2b may not be integrated with the jaws 3a, 3b. The jaws then carry the mold parts, which are reported on the jaws. The mold may be flexible and held to the jaws for example by adhesion or by cooperation of shapes, for example by snap and / or slide fastener. The jaws are then preferably rigid.

The mold 2a, 2b may be disposable or not. The jaws 3a, 3b may be reusable or not.

The composition 6 may be present in the mold before use of the device 1, in the part 2a, the part 2b or in both parts. The loading of the mold in composition can be performed prior to the use of the device, for example using a metering device.

A device in the form of a clamp has the advantage of being light, to allow the user to accurately perceive the stresses applied, on the eyelid, during operations, to generate a very low visual occultation allowing optimal vision for the eye. user, and to be easy to use.

The device 1, whether in the form of a clamp or not, may comprise a system facilitating demolding, such as a set of small blades 10 which deform the mold, for example when moved relative to it in the direction of fingerprints 4, as illustrated in FIGS. 29A and 29B. In the case where it is sought to produce a composition strip connecting several eyelashes to each other according to the third aspect of the invention, it will of course be ensured that such blades do not cut the strip.

The mold 2 may also comprise, as illustrated in Figure 30, reliefs 9 between two cavities 4 intended to form two cavities, so as to cut any bridges of composition.

The device 1 may comprise blades 11 serving to cut possible bridges of composition between two cavities, as illustrated in FIG.

The blades 11 are for example retracted within the portion of the mold 2a before closing thereof, and tend to advance to closing the mold. The blades 11 are for example integral with a carrier 111 movable relative to the portion 2a.

Alternatively, the material of the part 2a is elastomeric and overmolded on the blades 11, which can press on the bridges of composition extending between the cavities 4 due to the deformability of the material with which the part 2a is made.

Still other systems can be used for cutting bridges, for example a system for sending compressed air through slots located between the cavities or a heating element.

The composition 6 can make it possible to fix an additional fiber 12 to an eyelash 7, with or without an axial overlap between the eyelash and the additional fiber, as illustrated respectively in FIGS. 32 and 33. The eyelash can be found on the additional fiber if the additional fiber is in a cavity of the lower mold part, and conversely if the additional fibers are in the cavities of the upper mold part. Practically, the additional fibers can also be found next to the eyelashes according to the organization that will cause the pressure of the two parts of the mold.

The additional fibers may in particular be false eyelashes.

The additional fibers 12 may be arranged in waiting in indentations 4 of the mold 2, as illustrated in FIG. 34A. The composition 6 can then be applied to the ends of the additional fibers 12 and the eyelashes 7 introduced into the cavities 4 of the mold 2 and brought into contact with the composition 6, as illustrated in FIG. 34B. The imprints 4 have here been shown rectilinear but they may alternatively include branches in accordance with the first aspect of the invention, or aim to achieve an evolutionary makeup according to the second aspect of the invention.

The cavities may be on at least part of their length of semi-cylindrical shape in the case where the portion 2a of the mold is flat and the portion 2b of the mold is semi-cylindrical in the forming zone of the cavity 5, as illustrated in Figure 24.

Each cavity 5 can receive one or more eyelashes 7, as illustrated respectively in FIGS. 35 and 36.

Before molding, the composition 6 may, according to different variants, be present on only a part of the cavity 5, as shown in FIGS. 37A to 37C, over the entire cavity, as illustrated in FIG. 37E, or absent from FIG. the cavity as shown in Figure 37D. In the latter case, the composition may be injected through an injection channel 8 communicating with the cavities 5 of the mold, as illustrated in FIG. 38.

The composition 6 may be present initially, before placement of the eyelashes, on the upper part of the cavity, corresponding to the part of the mold 2a, as illustrated in FIG. 37A, on the lower part of the cavity, corresponding to the part of the mold 2b, as illustrated in FIG. 37B, or both on the upper part and on the lower part of the cavity, corresponding to the two parts of the mold 2a and 2b, as in FIGS. 37C and 37E.

It is possible, except when it is desired to implement the fourth aspect of the invention, to replace the hot-melt composition with a cosmetic composition that is fluid at ambient temperature and contains at least particles in the dispersed state in a liquid medium.

The device may then include or be placed close to a heating element, the heating element being for example a resistive element, a radiative element, or a wave dispenser.

The device may comprise or be placed in the vicinity of a system which assists in drying by the supply of energy, in particular in the form of light or heat, and / or comprising a ventilation circuit, a suction and / or blowing operation. in order to evaporate at least a portion of the liquid medium.

The mold may include a specific absorber of the liquid medium to remove at least a portion of the liquid medium.

In another embodiment of the invention, a composition is used which is a fluid composition at ambient temperature and containing at least one activatable compound by a physical or chemical stimulus. The eyelashes and the composition are enclosed in the mold. After reaction, we unmold.

The device may then include or be placed close to a heating element in order to accelerate the reaction, the heating element being for example a resistive element, a radiative element, or a wave dispenser.

The device according to the invention may comprise a triggering system such as a light element in order to trigger the reaction, for example an illuminator in IR, UV or visible light. The mold is then preferably transparent to the wavelengths used to trigger the reaction.

In another embodiment of the invention, the composition is a ductile composition and preferably has a Young's modulus less than or equal to 100 MPa, at room temperature and pressure.

Figs. 39A to 39C illustrate various steps of an exemplary compression molding. The composition 6 is initially present in the part 2a of the mold and the eyelashes 7 in the other part 2b.

After closing the two mold parts, the cavities 5 are formed as shown in Figs. 39B and 39C.

A compression exerted on the flexible mold makes it possible to reduce the volume of the cavities of the mold, as illustrated in FIG. 39C and to improve the contact between the eyelashes 7 and the composition 6.

Figures 40A and 40B show a mold before and after compression of the cavities, without eyelashes or composition. The largest dimension of the cavities A is, for example, 3 mm before compression and is reduced by at least 30%, for example to 2 mm, after compression.

PROPOSED EXAMPLES

Examples 1 to 8: Hot melt composition having a melting point between 40 ° C and 120 ° C

Example 1 Set Containing a Composition Based on a Thermoplastic Polymer and a Device Having a Heating Element 1) Cosmetic Composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared as described below.

All the raw materials used are weighed using a scale (precision 0,01 g). The compounds are melted in a 500 mL double jacketed skillet with hot oil circulation to control the temperature. The assembly is heated to about 95 ° C - 98 ° C.

Once the mixture is melted, it is homogenized by stirring at Moritz (stator rotor type stirring consisting of a fixed part in which a second moving part rotates at a variable speed) in order to disperse the pigments.

The composition is then used hot in liquid form to be deposited on the molds or at room temperature in solid form.

The formula is prepared from the weight proportions described below.

2) Device

The device used in Example 1 is as described with reference to Figures 1 to 3 with the mold described in Figure 8 or 9. 3) Implementation

The thermoplastic polymer-based thermoplastic composition is placed in the mold cavities using a pipette or syringe, and the excess is scraped with a razor blade if necessary. The whole is then left to cool.

The two parts of the mold are then placed on the jaws of the device.

The heating is operated by feeding the heating element of the device for 4 minutes until reaching a temperature of about 60 ° C within the composition.

The heating is then stopped while the two jaws are tightened on the eyelash fringe so as to trap it. The whole is allowed to cool for 4 minutes. At the end of 4 minutes, the two jaws are spread apart.

The two parts of the mold remain attached to the eyelash fringe. The two parts of the mold are spread apart, pulling on their width, to clear the eyelashes.

A makeup with advanced effect multiplied is obtained on the eyelashes.

Example 2: Set containing a composition based on wax and a device having a heating element U Cosmetic composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared as described below.

All the raw materials used are weighed using a scale (precision 0,01 g). The compounds are melted in a 500 mL double jacketed skillet with hot oil circulation to control the temperature. The assembly is heated to about 95 ° C - 98 ° C.

Once the mixture is melted, it is homogenized by stirring at Moritz (stator rotor type stirring consisting of a fixed part in which a second moving part rotates at a variable speed) in order to disperse the pigments.

The composition is then used hot in liquid form to be deposited on the molds or at room temperature in solid form.

The formula is prepared from the weight proportions described below.

2) Device

The device used is identical to that of example 1. 3) Implementation

The cosmetic composition based on wax is placed in the mold cavities.

The device and the cosmetic composition are used in the same manner as illustrated in Example 1.

Example 3: Set containing a composition based on semi-crystalline polymer and a device having a heating element 13 Cosmetic composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared as described in Example 2.

The formula is prepared from the weight proportions described below.

2) Device

The device used is identical to that of example 1. 3) Implementation

The cosmetic composition based on semi-crystalline polymer is placed in the cavities of the mold.

The device and the cosmetic composition are used in the same manner as illustrated in Example 1.

Example 4: Set containing a fluid composition and a device having a heating element Γ) Fluid cosmetic composition

The fluid cosmetic composition used is identical to that marketed under the name Mascara Volume Millions of Lashes by L'Oréal. This composition has a viscosity of about 4 Pa.s. 2) Device

The device used is identical to that of example 1. 3Ί Implementation

The cosmetic composition is placed in the impressions of the mold.

The device and the cosmetic composition are used in the same manner as illustrated in Example 1.

Examples 5 and 6: Fluid composition containing particles in the dispersed state

Example 5 Set Containing a Composition Based on Wax and Latex and a Device Having a Heating Element 1) Solidifiable Cosmetic Composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared from the weight proportions described below.

The composition is fluid at room temperature.

21 Device

The device used in Example 9 is as described in Example 1, modified so that the heating can begin after closure of the mold. 31 Implementation

The solidifiable cosmetic composition based on wax and latex is placed in the cavities of the mold.

The two jaws containing the two parts of the mold are approached from the eyelash fringe and then tightened so as to imprison it.

The heating is operated by the heating element of the device for 5 minutes until reaching a temperature of about 70 ° C.

The heating is then stopped and the whole is allowed to cool for 10 minutes. Both jaws are then opened. The cosmetic composition became solid by aggregation of the particles during the temperature rise.

The two parts of the mold remain attached to the eyelash fringe. The two parts of the mold are spread apart, pulling on their width, to clear the eyelashes.

The result is then slightly rubbed in order to break the possible bridges of composition formed between two impressions.

The eyelashes are sheathed with a smooth, homogeneous and cohesive deposit, with a reduced eyelash effect.

Example 6 Set Containing a Composition Based on Latex and Ethanol and a Device Having a Heating Element 1) Solidifiable Cosmetic Composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared from the weight proportions described below.

The composition is fluid at room temperature.

2) Device

The device used is identical to that of example 5. 3Ί Implementation

The solidifiable cosmetic composition based on latex and ethanol is placed in the mold cavities.

The two jaws are approaching the eyelash fringe and then tightened so as to imprison it.

The heating is operated by the heating element of the device for 5 minutes until reaching a temperature of about 70 ° C.

The heating is then stopped and the whole is allowed to cool for 10 minutes. Both jaws are then opened. The cosmetic composition became solid by aggregation of the latex particles during the temperature rise.

The two parts of the mold remain attached to the eyelash fringe. The two parts of the mold are spread apart, pulling on their width, to clear the eyelashes.

The result is then slightly rubbed in order to break the possible bridges of composition formed between two impressions.

The eyelashes are sheathed with a smooth, homogeneous and cohesive deposit. A multiplied point effect is obtained.

Examples 7 A12: Fluid composition comprising an activatable compound

Example 7 Set Containing a Composition Based on Methacrylate Compounds U Cosmetic Composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared. The formula consists of 100% by weight of methacrylate compounds sold under the name Power Polish ™ Top Coat by CND Shellac. The composition is handled taking care to avoid contact with daylight. 2) Device

The device used in Example 11 comprises two jaws displaceable on columns. The two parts of the mold, placed between two movable jaws, are made of UV-transparent silicone elastomer (Platsil gel 10 (A: B) reactive silicones marketed by Polytek) and have the imprints shown in FIGS. 8 or 9. 3 ) Implementation

The cosmetic composition based on methacrylate compounds is placed in the imprints of the lower part of the mold. The upper part of the mold is then placed.

The two parts of the mold are then placed on the jaws of the device.

The two jaws are approaching the eyelash fringe and then tightened so as to imprison it. The set is placed near a UV A source (UV lamp used for UV gels producing 36 W).

After 4 minutes of exposure, the two jaws are open and the sculptures are cleared.

A homogeneous makeup with effect of increased eyelashes is obtained on the eyelashes.

Example 8: Set containing a reactive composition based on ethylcycloacrylate 1) Cosmetic composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared. The formula consists of 100% by weight of ethylcyanoacrylate sold under the name Superglue 3 by Loctite. The composition is handled taking care to avoid contact with water. 2) Device

The device used is identical to that of example 7. 3) Implementation

The cosmetic composition based on ethylcyanoacrylate is placed in the grooves of the lower part of the mold. The upper part of the mold is moistened by a spray so as to deposit 0.3 g of water and then put in place.

The two parts of the mold are then placed on the jaws of the device.

The two jaws (3a) and (3b) are close to the eyelash fringe and then tightened so as to imprison it.

After 4 minutes of waiting, both jaws are open and the sculptures are clear.

Example 9: Set containing a composition based on reactive silicone 1) Cosmetic composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared. The formula consists of 100% by weight of reactive silicone sold under the name Joint &amp; Fix by the company GEB. The composition is handled taking care to avoid contact with water. 2) Device

The device used is identical to that of example 7. 3) Implementation

The cosmetic composition based on reactive silicone is placed in the cavities of the lower part of the mold. The upper part of the mold is moistened with a spray so as to deposit 0.1 g of water, and then put in place.

The two parts of the mold are then placed on the jaws of the device. The two jaws are approaching the eyelash fringe and then tightened so as to imprison it.

After 12 minutes of waiting, the two jaws are open and the sculptures are cleared.

A homogeneous makeup is obtained on the eyelashes, with the effect of reducing the spikes.

Example 10 Set Containing a Composition Based on Reactive Silicones 1) Cosmetic Composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared. The formula consists of two components of reactive silicone Platsil gel 10 (A: B) marketed by Polytek.

The two compounds are mixed and the mixture is introduced into the mold without delay, in less than 3 minutes after completion of the mixture. 2) Device

The device used is identical to that of example 7. 3) Implementation

The cosmetic composition based on reactive silicones is placed, immediately after its preparation, in the cavities of the lower part of the mold. The upper part of the mold is then put in place.

The two parts of the mold are then placed on the jaws of the device.

The two jaws are approaching the eyelash fringe and then tightened so as to imprison it.

After 7 minutes of waiting, the two jaws are open and the sculptures are cleared.

A homogeneous makeup is obtained on the eyelashes, without brushing movement of eyelashes. The makeup is easy to apply without the need to calibrate the amount of composition removed and applied.

Example 11 Set Containing a Composition Based on Reactive Silicones U Cosmetic Composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared. The formula consists of two components of reactive silicone Platsil gel 10 (A: B) marketed by Polytek. The mixing of the components is done in situ in the device. 2) Device

The device used is identical to that of example 7. 3Ί Implementation

Component A is placed in the grooves of the lower part of the mold. As for compound B, it is placed in the upper part of the mold.

The two parts of the mold are then placed on the jaws of the device.

The two jaws are approaching the eyelash fringe and then tightened so as to imprison it.

After 7 minutes of waiting, the two jaws are open and the sculptures are cleared.

A homogeneous makeup is obtained on the eyelashes, with a lash effect multiplied.

Example 12 Set Containing a Composition of Sodium Alginate and Calcium Chloride 1) Cosmetic Composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared as described below.

The formula consists on the one hand of a solution of sodium alginate (marketed under the name Kelcosol by ISP) at 5% and on the other hand of an aqueous solution of calcium chloride at 3% of pH = 7 gelled with a nonionic thickener of 2% hydroxyethylcellulose. The compositions are prepared by dissolving the compounds in water.

The mixing of the components is done in situ in the device. 2) Device

The device used is identical to that of Example 11. 3) Implementation

The sodium alginate solution is placed in the cavities of the lower part of the mold. As for the gelled solution based on calcium chloride, it is placed in an amount equivalent to the amount of alginate solution in the upper part of the mold.

The two parts of the mold are then placed on the jaws of the device.

The two jaws are approaching the eyelash fringe and then tightened so as to imprison it.

After 3 minutes of waiting, the two jaws are open and the sculptures are cleared.

A homogeneous makeup is obtained on the eyelashes, with an effect of eyelashes multiplied.

Examples 13 to 15: Ductile Composition

Example 13 1) Cosmetic composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared from the weight proportions described below.

2) Device

The device used in Example 13 comprises two movable jaws on columns. The two parts of the mold, placed between two movable jaws, are made of silicone elastomer (Platsil gel 10 (A: B) reactive silicones marketed by Polytek). The mold is as described in Figures 8 or 9.

Under compression, the mold deforms and pushes the cavities to reduce their volume. 3) Implementation

Vegetable oil and platinum boron nitride powder (Boron Nitride from Merck) are placed at 25 mg and 50 mg, respectively, in each of the mold parts.

The cosmetic composition described above is then placed in the indentations of the two parts of the mold until they are filled.

The composition is allowed to dry for 10 minutes.

The two jaws containing the two parts of the mold are approached from the eyelash fringe and then tightened so as to imprison it.

The eyelashes are compressed strongly, applying a pressure of about 4 kg on the upper jaw for 1 minute.

The two jaws are then opened and the sculptures are released.

A homogeneous makeup is obtained on the eyelashes with a lash effect multiplied. The mascara layer took the shape of the mold.

Example 14 1) Cosmetic composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared from the weight proportions described below by dissolving the sulfonic polyester in ethanol.

2d Device

The device used is identical to that of example 13. 3) Implementation

Vegetable oil and platinum boron nitride powder (Boron Nitride from Merck) are placed at 25 mg and 50 mg, respectively, in each of the mold parts.

The cosmetic composition described above is then placed in the cavities of the mold until they are filled.

The composition is allowed to dry for 24 hours.

The two jaws containing the two parts of the mold are approached from the eyelash fringe and then tightened so as to imprison it.

The eyelashes are compressed strongly, applying a pressure of about 4 kg on the upper jaw for 1 minute.

The two jaws are then opened and the formed patterns are released.

A homogeneous makeup is obtained on the eyelashes, with a lash effect multiplied. The mascara layer took the shape of the mold.

Example 15 1) Cosmetic composition

A composition according to the invention is prepared. It consists of Chavant modeling clay marketed by Esprit composite under the name Plastiline Ivoire. 2) Device

The device used is identical to that of example 13. 3) Implementation

Vegetable oil and platinum boron nitride powder (Boron Nitride from Merck) are placed at 25 mg and 50 mg, respectively, in each of the mold parts.

The cosmetic composition described above is then placed in the cavities of the mold until they are filled.

The two jaws containing the two parts of the mold are approached from the eyelash fringe and then tightened so as to imprison it.

The eyelashes are compressed strongly, applying a pressure of about 4 kg on the upper jaw for 1 minute.

The two jaws are then opened and the sculptures are released.

The material has integrated eyelashes, while taking the form of the mold.

Example 16

A mold is made of a silicone material with on one of the mold parts a curvilinear groove of about 3 cm in length, 2 mm in width, 1 mm in height, as illustrated in FIG. 16. It is filled with a hot melt composition. It is cooled and the article produced is released.

Then we put this article on a hair curler device, for example brand Talika.

The eyelash curler is used as a heating applicator, taking care not to curl the eyelashes. TEST 1

The eyelashes are combed and then the strip of hot-melt composition is applied. TEST 2

The strip of hot-melt composition is applied and then combed before cooling. TEST 3

The lashes are kept aligned using a comb during the application of the composition band.

For these three tests, one obtains, even on an undisciplined fringe, results of discipline.

The same tests are made with a colored material (black or flesh color). In the first case, the eyelashes are treated with a liner effect. In the second case, we obtain an effect of prolongation of the eyelid especially interesting in the case of the eyes too open ("round eye").

The figures and examples have been described with eyelashes as treated keratinous fibers, but these figures and examples also apply to other types of keratinous fibers, in particular to eyebrows or hair.

The particular features of the various examples described can be combined within non-illustrated variants.

Claims (15)

1. An assembly comprising at least one cosmetic composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, and a device comprising a mold (2a, 2b) comprising at least one individual cavity in which at least one of said fibers may be introduced at least partially, so that the composition is molded on at least a portion of the fiber present in the cavity, the latter having at least one branch (131) so that the molding of the composition on the fiber leads to the formation of at least two branches (130) directed outwards. 2. Assembly according to the preceding claim, the mold comprising a plurality of cavities in each of which at least one of said fibers can be introduced at least partially, so that the composition is molded on at least a portion of each fiber present in a corresponding cavity, the cavities each having at least one branch (131) so that the molding of the composition on the fibers leads to the formation of at least two branches per fiber. 3. Assembly according to one of the preceding claims, the branch (131) being located more than the mid-length of the individual cavity from its proximal end. 4. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, the or each cavity having at least one Y-shaped pattern, in particular consisting of a single Y-pattern. 5. An assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 3, the or each cavity having at least one X-shaped pattern, including a single X pattern or two X patterns succeeding in the longitudinal direction of the cavity. 6. Assembly according to the preceding claim, comprising a single pattern X per cavity, the crossing of the legs of the X being located between 1/3 and 2/3 of the length of the cavity from its proximal end. 7. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, the or each cavity being open at its proximal and distal ends. 8. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a groove extending transversely to the cavities. 9. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, the cavities having proximal ends located along a concave curvilinear baseline towards the proximal edge of the mold, the groove being of curvilinear longitudinal axis concave towards the proximal edge. mold too. 10. The assembly of claim 9, the longitudinal axis of the groove being closer to the proximal end of the cavities it intersects than their distal end. 11. The assembly of claim 10, the groove being less than 2 mm from the baseline, better less than 1 mm. 12. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, the branches formed by the same cavity being separated at their distal end by a distance (wt) of between 0.5 and 3 mm. An assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, the shape and / or spacing between the cavities varying along a baseline from which the cavities extend. 14. The assembly of claim 13, the number of branches per cavity varying along the baseline. The eyelash makeup process, comprising the step of: molding the composition on the eyelashes using an assembly according to any one of the preceding claims.