FR3015275A1 - PROCESS FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS COMPRISING THE APPLICATION TO KERATIN FIBERS OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING INSOLUBLE SOLID PARTICLES - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for the treatment of keratinous fibers comprising the application to the keratinous fibers of a composition resulting from the mixture of a composition A and a composition B in which: the composition A comprises at least one agent alkalinizing composition B comprises: a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance, an aqueous phase, insoluble solid particles different from the fatty substances, at least one chemical oxidizing agent, according to the invention, the content in a fatty substance represents a total of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition resulting from the mixture of A and B.

Description

The present invention relates to a process for the treatment of keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, and in particular the process for the treatment of keratinous fibers. , comprising the application to the keratin fibers of a composition derived from the mixture of two compositions A and B in which the composition A comprises at least one alkaline agent and the composition B comprises at least one fatty phase, at least one aqueous phase, solid particles and at least one chemical oxidizing agent. In cosmetics, in the fields of dyeing, bleaching and permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, oxidizing compositions are used.

Thus, in oxidation dyeing of the hair, oxidizing compositions are mixed with the oxidation dyes (bases and couplers), which are colorless by themselves, to generate colored and coloring compounds by a process of oxidative condensation. Oxidizing compositions are also used in the direct dyeing of hair mixed with certain direct dyes which are colored and dyed to obtain a coloration with a lightening effect of the hair. Among the oxidizing agents conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers, mention may be made of hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide. Persals such as perborates and persulfates can also be used. Hydrogen peroxide is more particularly preferred. In hair discoloration, the bleaching compositions contain one or more oxidizing agents. Among these oxidizing agents, the most conventionally used are hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide. Persals such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates can also be used. Hydrogen peroxide and persulfates are particularly preferred. These compositions may be aqueous compositions containing alkaline agents (amines or ammonia) which are diluted at the time of use with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition.

These compositions can also be formed from anhydrous products which contain alkaline compounds (amines and / or alkali silicates), and a peroxygen compound such as persulfates, perborates or percarbonates, ammonium or alkali metals, which are diluted with moment of use with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide. The oxidizing compositions necessary for the implementation of the fixing step, are most often compositions based on hydrogen peroxide. It is sought to obtain more effective oxidizing compositions, that is to say reacting more quickly with the structure of the fiber, while having a good tolerance vis-à-vis said fiber and scalp. Thus, it has been proposed processes using compositions comprising a large amount of oil. However, the use of a high oil content requires the use of significant amounts of surfactants, which can induce interactions with hydrogen peroxide and scalp irritation in some cases. In addition, these compositions may have an undesirable adhesion to the hair, causing difficulty spreading the compositions on the hair. The present invention aims to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art and therefore to provide a keratinous fiber processing method comprising the application of compositions comprising a reduced oil content, which are easy to use, especially easy to apply and spread on the hair, which respect the scalp and have a reduced impact on the environment. The subject of the present invention is therefore a process for the treatment of keratinous fibers comprising the application to the keratinous fibers of a composition resulting from the mixing of a composition A and a composition B in which: composition A comprises at least less an alkalinizing agent, the composition B, comprises: o a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance, o an aqueous phase, o insoluble solid particles different from the fatty substances, o at least one chemical oxidizing agent, it being understood that the fat content represents in total at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition resulting from the mixture of A and B.35. When the process according to the invention is used for dyeing keratin fibers, good dyeing properties, in particular powerful coloring, chromatic, not very selective and resistant well to the various external aggressions that can undergo the hair (shampoos, light, sweat, permanent deformities). When the process according to the present invention is used for the bleaching of keratinous fibers, it makes it possible to obtain a good lightening effect of these fibers without degrading them and without altering their cosmetic properties.

Other features, aspects, objects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and the examples which follow. In what follows, unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of the ranges indicated are included in the invention.

The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more". Composition A: Alkalizing agents: Composition A comprises at least one basifying agent.

The basifying agent (s) may be inorganic, organic or hybrid. The inorganic alkalinizing agent (s) is (are) preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates, such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, or mixtures thereof. The organic basifying agent (s) are preferably chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C. is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise a fatty chain, alkyl or alkenyl, comprising more than ten carbon atoms. The organic basifying agent (s) are, for example, chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and compounds of the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## wherein a divalent C 1 -C 6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O or NRu; Rx, Ry, Rz, Rt, Ru and the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical. Examples of amines of formula (I) are 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diaminopropanol, spermine and spermidine.

By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C 1 -C 8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals. In particular, the organic amines chosen from alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are suitable in the embodiment of the invention. Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and triisopropanolamine. 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane. More particularly, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from the carboxylic, sulphonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form. As amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine and cysteine. , glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (II), as well as their salts: ## STR2 ## wherein R represents a group chosen from YNN NH - (CH2) 3NH2 - (CH2) 2NH2; The compounds corresponding to the formula (II) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline and (CH 2) 2 NHCONH 2 and - (CH 2) 2 N H - C -NH 2 NH 3. The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to the histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made, in particular, of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, carnosine, anserin and balenine may be mentioned in particular. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine function. As amino amines of this type which can be used in the present invention, mention may in addition be made of arginine already mentioned as amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1 diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2 - ([amino (imino) methyl] amino acid) - ethane-1-sulfonic acid. As hybrid compounds, mention may be made of the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid and hydrochloric acid. In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used.

Preferably, the alkalinizing agent (s) present in the composition of the invention are chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids in neutral or ionic form, in particular basic amino acids, and preferably corresponding to those of formula (III).

Even more preferentially, the alkalinizing agent (s) are chosen from alkanolamines and in particular monoethanolamine (MEA), and basic amino acids, in neutral or ionic form. Advantageously, composition A has a content of alkalinizing agent (s) ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of composition A. According to a first particular embodiment, the composition A does not use ammonia or one of its salts, as alkalinizing agent. According to a second embodiment, if the composition A used ammonia or one of its salts as alkalinizing agent, its content would advantageously not exceed 0.03% by weight (expressed as NH 3), preferably not would not exceed 0.01% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition A. Preferably, if the composition A comprises ammonia or a salt thereof, then the weight amount of basifying agent (s) other than ammonia is greater than that of ammonia (expressed as NH3).

Fatty Substances: By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 1.013 × 10 5 Pa) (solubility less than 5% and preferably at 1% even more preferentially at 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), petrolatum oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. The fatty substances of the invention do not contain salified carboxylic acid groups. In addition, the fatty substances of the invention are not (poly) oxyalkylenated (especially C 2 -C 3) or (poly) glycerolated ethers.

By "oil" is meant a "fat" which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1,013.105 Pa). The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom. More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, alcohols fatty acids, non-salified fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides and non-silicone waxes, in particular vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes, silicones, and mixtures thereof. It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30, more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or several hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from petrolatum or paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and mixtures thereof. ; With regard to the C6-C16 hydrocarbons, the latter are linear, branched, optionally cyclic and preferably alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane and isododecane, and mixtures thereof. As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene. Triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or even more particularly from those present in vegetable oils such as for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado jojoba oil, shea butter oil or synthetic triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and mixtures thereof . As regards the fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTECO PC1" and "FLUTECO PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M. The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol and linolenic alcohol. , ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol and mixtures thereof. The fatty acids that can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. These fatty acids are the composition not salified by organic or mineral bases to not give birth to soaps. With regard to fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, different from the triglycerides mentioned above and non-silicone waxes; mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 -C 26 or branched C 3 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1 -C 26 or branched C 3 -C 26 aliphatic or monohydric alcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more preferably greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; , styryl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Still within the scope of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of di, tri, alcohols. C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy. These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, sodium myristates and the like. alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkyls, such as methyl derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate esters. More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE. The non-silicone wax or waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax or rice wax. hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ; other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

The silicones that can be used in the dyeing composition of the present invention are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1m2 / s. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. Preferably, the silicone or silicones are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group preferably chosen from amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE @ 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE @ 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 sold by UNION CARBIDE, of the formula: ## STR5 ## The cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and the like, can also be mentioned. oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone, silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70,047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of the company Dow Corning; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMI DT, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes. The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from a hydroxyl end-of-the-chain polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2/2, R 3 SiO 1/2, RSiO 3 / 2 and SiO4 / 2 wherein R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl. Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company SHI N-ETSU. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups as mentioned previously, attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; . RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; . silicones of the PK series from BAYER, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER, such as the PN 1000 and PH1000 products; . certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. Preferably, the fatty substances are non-silicone, that is to say that their structure does not contain a silicon atom. They generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and not including a siloxane group. Preferably, the fatty substances are different from the fatty acids. The liquid fatty substances that can be used in the invention are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). They preferably have a viscosity less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at the temperature of 25 ° C. and at a shear rate. from 1 s-1. Usable liquid fatty substances are generally not oxyalkylenated and preferably do not contain a carboxylic acid function COOH.

Preferably, the fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, C6-C16 alkanes, vegetable oils or triglycerides, liquid synthetic triglycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters. and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides and non-silicone waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones, or mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, they are chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils, C6-C16 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters different from triglycerides, liquid fatty alcohols, or their mixtures. Even more preferentially, the fatty substances are chosen from paraffin oil or petroleum jelly. The fatty substances, preferably liquid, according to the invention are present at a content greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition resulting from the mixture of A and B, preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 35%.

The content of fatty substances, preferably liquid, in the composition resulting from the mixture of composition A and B may be less than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition resulting from the mixture of A and B, of preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to 45%, preferably less than or equal to 40%. The fatty substances, preferably liquid, may in particular be present in a content ranging from 20 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition resulting from the mixture of A and B, preferably at a content ranging from 25 to 60 % by weight, preferably at a content ranging from 30 to 50%.

Composition A may comprise fatty substances. The fat content in the composition A may be greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition A, preferably greater than or equal to 40% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight .

Composition B comprises a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance. Preferably, the fatty phase comprises at least one fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The fat content in the composition B may be greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition B, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight. They may especially be present in a content ranging from 5 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B, preferably at a content ranging from 10 to 75%, preferably at a content ranging from 15 to 65%. Composition B: Particles: Composition B comprises insoluble solid particles, different from fatty substances. The term "average particle size" means the parameter D [4.3] measured using a "Mastersizer 2000" granulometer (Malvern). The light intensity scattered by the particles as a function of the angle at which they are illuminated is converted into a size distribution according to Mie's theory. The parameter D [4.3] is measured, it is the average diameter of the sphere having the same volume as the particle. For the spherical particle, we will often speak of "average diameter". Composition B therefore comprises solid particles intended to stabilize it, by positioning at the disperse phase / continuous phase interface.

In the context of the invention, the term "insoluble particles" means insoluble particles in water and insoluble in liquid fats. By "insoluble" is meant, in particular, particles having a solubility at 25 ° C. in water or in liquid fatty substances and in particular in petroleum jelly oil of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1%. by weight and preferably still less than 0.01%, by weight in water or in liquid fatty substances and in particular in petrolatum oil The solid particles used in the context of the invention are not considered as surfactants in sense of the present invention. The particles used in the composition B can be surface treated with an organic agent. In particular, the particles may have undergone totally or partially a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanical-chemical or mechanical surface treatment with an organic agent such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64.

These organic agents may be for example chosen from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth) acrylic polymers or copolymers, for example polymethyl (meth) acrylates; alkanoamines; silicone compounds such as silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds such as perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.

The surface-treated particles may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments. Surface-treated particles may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such commercially. The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in US Pat. No. 4,578,266. Preferably, an organic agent bound to the particles will be covalently used.

The organic agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated particle, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight. weight. Preferably, the surface treatments of the particles are chosen from the following treatments: a PEG-silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCVV; a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCVV; a dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCVV; a dimethicone / trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCVV; an aluminum dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; a perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCVV; an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; a Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate treatment such as the NAI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; a perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito; an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoroalkyl phosphate copolymer treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito; a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito; an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito; an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito; an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito; a perfluoroalkyl phosphate / lsopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito. - teflon treatment; a polyester treatment; - a chitosan treatment; an N-lauroyl-L-lysine treatment. The particles that may be used in the context of the invention may be silica particles. Thus, the composition may more particularly comprise one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic silicas, or mixtures thereof. By "hydrophilic silica" is meant both pure hydrophilic silicas and particles totally or partially coated with hydrophilic silica.

The hydrophilic silicas that may be used are preferably amorphous. They are generally in powder form. They may also be of pyrogenic origin or of precipitated origin. The fumed silicas are usually obtained by continuous pyrolysis at 1000 ° C. of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl 4) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. The precipitated silicas are obtained more particularly by reaction of an acid with alkali silicate solutions, preferably sodium silicate. In a first embodiment of the invention, the hydrophilic silica may be chosen from hydrophilic silicas, optionally pyrogenic, having a mean particle size ranging from 3 to 50 nm, such as the particles sold under the names AEROSIL 90, 130 , 150, 200, 300, 380, OX50, FK320DS by the company Degussa-Hüls. The hydrophilic silica that may be used may also consist of a particle, in particular a mineral particle, totally or partially covered with silica.

There may be mentioned in particular silica beads containing titanium oxide, for example sold under the name TORAYCERAM S-IT® by the company Toray; silica coated with titanium dioxide and coated with porous silica (85/5/10) (size: 0.6 μm), in particular sold under the name ACS0050510® by SACI-CFPA; anatase titanium nano-oxide treated with alumina and 40% silica in water (size: 60 nm, monodisperse), sold especially under the name MIRASUN TIW 60® by the company Rhodia Chimie; anatase titanium nano-oxide (60 nm) coated with silica / alumina / cerium IV 15/5/3 in a 32% aqueous dispersion, in particular sold under the name MIRASUN TIW 160® by the company Rhodia Chimie; anatase titanium nano-oxide treated with alumina and silica (34 / 4.3 / 1.7) in a 40% aqueous dispersion, in particular marketed under the name TIOVEIL AQ-N® by Uniqema; silica-coated titanium nano-oxide (66/33) (titanium dioxide granulometry: 30 nm, silica thickness: 4 nm), sold especially under the name MAXLIGHT TS-04® by the company Nichimen Europe PLC; silica-coated titanium nano-oxide (80/20) (titanium dioxide granulometry: 30 nm, silica thickness: 2 nm), sold especially under the name MAXLIGHT TS-042® by the company Nichimen Europe PLC. The term "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean both pure hydrophobic silicas and particles totally or partially coated with hydrophobic silica.

The hydrophobic silicas that may be used are preferably amorphous and of pyrogenic origin. They are preferably in powder form. The amorphous hydrophobic silicas of pyrogenic origin are generally obtained from hydrophilic pyrogenic silicas. These are obtained by pyrolysis in a continuous flame at 1000 ° C of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl4) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are then rendered hydrophobic by treatment with halogenated silanes, alkoxysilanes or silazanes. The hydrophobic silicas differ from the hydrophilic starting silicas by, inter alia, a lower silanol group density and by a smaller water vapor adsorption.

In a second embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic silica is chosen from silicas having a number average particle size ranging from 3 to 50 nm, such as the particles sold under the names AEROSIL R202, R805, R812, R972 and R974 by the company Degussa-Hüls. The hydrophobic silica that may be used may also consist of a particle, in particular a mineral particle, such as pigments and metal oxides, totally or partially covered with hydrophobic silica. In one variant of the invention, it is possible to use, as hydrophobic silica, a hydrophobic fumed silica treated surface-treated with a dimethylsiloxane, such as that marketed under the name AEROSIL R972 (INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) by the company Degussa-Hüls.

In a third embodiment of the invention, the silica may be selected from silicas having a mean particle size greater than 1 .mu.m. The silicas proposed under the names Silliston N85 (3 μm), Siliston N87 (3 μm), Siliston N82 (3 μm), Siliston V85 (4 μm) and Silicon V88 (4 μm) by the company Hoffmann Mineral can thus be mentioned. or SUNSIL 130 (6-9 pm) by the company SUNJIN CHEMICAL, MSS-500-3 H (3 pm) by the company Kobo, SUNSPHERE H 51 (5 pm) by the company AGC SI-TECH, as well as the amorphous silica hollow particles of ellipsoidal shape marketed by Kobo under the reference Silica Shells.

The particles that may be used in the context of the invention may be insoluble silicate particles. Silicates can be natural or chemically modified (or synthetic). The silicates correspond to optionally hydrated silica, part of the silicon atoms of which are replaced by metal cations such as Al3 +, B3 +, Fe3 +, Ga3 +, Be2 +, Zn2 +, Mg2 +, Co3 +, Ni3 +, Na +, Li +, Ca2 +, Cu2 +. More particularly, the silicates that may be used in the context of the invention may be chosen from (i) clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, and ii) clays of the family vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites and talcs or pyrophyllite. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, the clays are used which are cosmetically compatible with the keratin materials. The silicate may advantageously be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, talcs and mixtures thereof. The compounds marketed by LAPORTE under the name LAPONITE XLG and LAPONITE XLS may thus be mentioned. The silicate particles are advantageously magnesium silicate particles.

The magnesium silicates according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. Talc is particularly preferred as magnesium silicate according to the invention. Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates, most often including aluminum silicate. The crystalline structure of the talc consists of repeated layers of a brucite sandwich between silica layers. The talc according to the invention may more particularly be chosen from those sold under the names TALC SG-2000® sold by Nippon Talc, LUZENAC PHARMA M® sold by LUZENAC, J-68BC from US Corporation and MICRO ACE- P-3® sold by the company Nippon Talc. The silicates may be modified with a compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. As silicates that may be used, there may be mentioned quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by the company Rheox; Tixogel VP by United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by the company Rheox; Tixogel LG by United Catalyst; Clay Clay AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay, Quaternium-18 Hectorites such as those sold under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel ECO5, Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone IPP Gel, Bentone Gel ISD, Bentone Gel SS71, Bentone Gel VS8, Bentone Gel VS38 by Rhéox and Simagel M, Simagel SI 345 by Biophil. According to a particular embodiment, the silicates are unmodified. The particles may also be metal oxide particles, in particular metal oxides of columns 4 to 13 of the periodic table of the elements, modified or otherwise, in particular by surface treatments.

The particles may be selected from titanium oxide or zinc oxide particles, preferably titanium oxide particles. The oxides can be coated or not. Among the uncoated titanium oxides, mention may be made in particular of the following products: in powder form: BAYERTITAN and DIOXIDE DE TITANE A proposed by the company BAYER; 70110 CARDRE UF TIO2 proposed by CARDRE; in aqueous dispersion at 10%, 20% or 30% and particle size of 15, 20 or 60 nanometers: SUNVEIL 1010, 1020, 1030, 2020, 2030, 6010, 6030 offered by the company CATALYSTS &CHEMICALS; MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE- USP GRADE proposed by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES.

Among the coated titanium oxides, mention may be made in particular of the following products: those coated with polydimethylsiloxane (CARDRE ULTRAFINE TITANIUM DIOXIDE AS proposed by CARDRE); those coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane (untreated titanium oxide coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane sold under the trade name Cosmetic White SA-C47-051-10 by the company Myoshi); those coated with perfluoro-polymethylisopropyl ether (CARDRE MICA FHC 70173 or 70170 CARDRE UF TIO2 FHC proposed by CARDRE); those coated with teflon (CS-13997 TEFLON COATED TITANIUM DIOXIDE proposed by the company CLARK COLORS); those coated with polyester (EXPERIMENTAL DESOTO BEADS proposed by the company DESOTO); those coated with chitosan (CT-2 TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-500SA proposed by the company DAINIHON KASEI); those coated with N-lauroyl-L-lysine (LL-5 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 100 or LL-3 TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SA, or LL-5 TITANIUM DIOXIDE CR-50, or LL-5 TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT- 100SA, or LL-5 TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT500SA, offered by the company DAINIHON KASEI.

Among the titanium mica mention may be made in particular of the following products: FLONAC FS 20 C, FLONAC ME 10 C, FLONAC MG 10 C, FLONAC MI 10 C, FLONAC ML 10 C, FLONAC MS 10 C, proposed by the company ECKART; TIMICA IRIDESCENT RED, or MATTINA GREEN offered by ENGELHARD; MATTINA GREEN, or TIMIRON GREEN MP-165 (17212) or TIMIRON STARLUSTER MP-115 (17200), or TIMIRON SUPER SPARKLE MP-148 (17297), proposed by MERCK. The insoluble solid particles are selected from silicate particles, silica particles, titanium oxide particles, zinc oxide particles, mica-titanium and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid particles are magnesium silicate particles, and more preferably talc. The insoluble solid particles are coated with a hydrophobic surfactant, preferably polydimethylsiloxane. Preferably, the insoluble solid particles are talc particles coated with polydimethylsiloxane.

Preferably, the insoluble solid particles have an average size greater than or equal to 0.10 μm. The insoluble solid particles preferably have an average size ranging from 0.10 to 100 μm, preferably from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 1.5 to 15 μm, preferably from 1.5 to 10 μm. The insoluble solid particles may be used at a content ranging from 0.01 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B, preferably from 0.5 to 40% by weight, and better still from 1 to 35% by weight. % in weight.

Chemical Oxidizing Agent: Composition B comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent. By chemical oxidizing agent is meant an oxidizing agent different from the oxygen of the air. In particular, the chemical oxidizing agent (s) that are suitable for the present invention are, for example, chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates. Advantageously, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing agent or agents generally represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30%, better still from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B. Aqueous phase: Composition B comprises an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase preferably comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more water-soluble organic solvents. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound which is liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa) having a solubility in water under these conditions, greater or equal to 5%. Preferably, the water is present in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

Composition A may comprise an aqueous phase as indicated above, in a content ranging from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight relative to to the total weight of composition A.

Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include non-aromatic alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers. , 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, or polyols such as glycerol. Polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols and mixtures of all these compounds can also be used as solvents. If they are present, the organic solvents preferably represent from 1 to 40% by weight and even more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition resulting from the mixture of composition A and composition B Composition B can be in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion, that is to say comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed oily phase. Composition B can also be in the form of a water-in-oil dispersion, that is to say comprises an oily continuous phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. Preferably, the composition B is in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion. The pH of composition B generally ranges from 1 to 7, preferably from 1.5 to 4.5, preferably from 2 to 3.5. It can be adjusted by adding acidifying agents such as hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid and phosphoric acid or acidifying agents in the presence of alkaline agents. Composition B can be manufactured according to the known methods. Thus, the fatty phase is heated and homogenized. The aqueous phase is also prepared and the pH is adjusted. Once the aqueous phase is incorporated in the fatty phase, the solid particles are added. Additives: Composition A and / or composition B may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dyeing or bleaching compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; organic thickeners, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; vitamins ; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of composition A and / or composition B. Composition A and / or composition B may comprise at least one surfactant. In particular, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants, and preferably nonionic surfactants.

According to one embodiment, the composition A comprises at least one surfactant, preferably nonionic, preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated sorbitan esters, polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkylpolyglucosides and their mixtures. If they are present, the composition A may have a content of surfactants ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A. According to a embodiment, the composition B has a surfactant content less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition B, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight.

According to one embodiment, the composition B is free of surfactants. Composition A and / or composition B can comprise at least one organic thickening polymer. These organic thickening polymers may be chosen from cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), homopolymers or copolymers optionally crosslinked, acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic zones, and fatty-chain hydrophobic zones (alkyl, alkenyl comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) capable, in an aqueous medium, to associate reversibly with each other or with other molecules). According to one particular embodiment, the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum). ), homopolymers or copolymers, optionally crosslinked, of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulosic thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose.

The content of polymeric organic thickening agent (s), if present, usually ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition resulting from the mixture of the composition of A and B, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. The composition resulting from the mixture of A and B may be in various forms, such as in the form of cream, gel, milk, lotion, mousse, or in any other form suitable for carrying out the treatment of keratinous fibers. , and in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair. Preferably, it is in the form of a cream or a milk.

Processes of the invention According to one embodiment, the process for treating keratinous fibers according to the invention is a process for bleaching or lightening keratinous fibers using a composition comprising an oxidizing composition B as defined hereinabove. above and an alkaline composition A as described above. Conventionally, a second step of the bleaching process according to the invention is a step of rinsing the keratinous fibers. The alkaline composition may comprise hydrogen peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates or compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide, hydrogen peroxide and the like. persulfates being particularly preferred. The weight ratio composition (A) / composition (B) may vary from 0.1 to 10 and preferably from 0.25 to 5. The composition resulting from the mixture of composition A and composition B may in particular be obtained in part. of 5 parts of the composition B and 2 parts of the composition A, preferably obtained from 2 parts of the composition B and 1 part of the composition A. According to one embodiment, the method according to the invention is a method for staining keratinous fibers using a composition A comprising one or more direct dyes and / or one or more oxidation dyes and an oxidizing composition B as defined above. According to this method, the dyeing composition is applied to the keratin fibers, the color being revealed at acidic, neutral or alkaline pH using an oxidizing composition according to the invention which is applied simultaneously without intermediate rinsing. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the dyeing process according to the invention, the dye composition is mixed at the time of use with an oxidizing composition according to the invention. The resulting mixture is then applied to the keratin fibers and allowed to stand for about 3 to 50 minutes, preferably about 5 to 30 minutes, after which it is rinsed, washed with shampoo, rinsed again and dried. As oxidation dye precursors, mention may be made of oxidation bases and couplers. By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Among the couplers that may be used, mention may especially be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers such as, for example, indole derivatives, indoline derivatives, and sesamol. its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolones, indazoles, benzimidazoles, benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles, 1,3-benzodioxoles, quinolines, and the addition salts of these compounds with an acid. The addition salts of the oxidation bases and the couplers are in particular chosen from acid addition salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates and tosylates. , benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates. The direct dyes are, for example, chosen from ionic or nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species. These direct dyes can be synthetic or of natural origin.

As examples of suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; methinic; carbonyls; azinic; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

The present invention is further illustrated in the following examples. Examples: The following compositions are prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are expressed in g% of material as it is). Alkaline composition A Compound A Sodium metabisulfite powder 0.22 Monoethanolamine pure 6.25 Ethyl diamine tetracetic acid 0.2 Overseas blue 0.1 Vaseline oil 60 Palmyl palmitate 2 Mixture of C18 to C24 linear alcohols 2 (C18 / C20 / C22 / C247 / 58/30/6), alcohol content sup. at 95% sold under the name Nafol 2022 EN by SASOL Poly [(dimethyliminio) -1,3-propanediyl (dimethyliminio) -1,6-hexanediyl] dichloride in 60% aqueous solution sold under the name MEXOMERE PO by the company CHIM EX 0.48 (0.29 MA) Poly di-methyl di-allyl ammonium chloride in water at 40% unstabilized sold under the name MERQUAT 100 POLYMER by the company NALCO 0.96 (0.38 MA) Carbomer sold under the name CARBOPOL 980 POLYMER by the company LUBRIZOL 0.1 glycerol Oleyl alcohol oxyethylene (10 OE) 1 Oleic alcohol oxyethylene (20 OE) 4 Decyl alcohol oxyethylene (50E) 1,2 Cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / 018) oxyethylene (600E) myristyl glycol ether 0.01 Vitamin C: l-ascorbic acid 0.12 Deionized water Qs 100 Oxidizing composition B Compound B Hydrogen peroxide 50% solution (water 24 (12 MA) oxygenated 200 vol.) Ethidronic acid, tetrasodium salt in 30% aqueous solution 0.2 Tetra-sodium pyrophosphate, 10H20 0.04 Talc coated with polydimethylsiloxane (98/2 VVT%) sold under the name SA-TA-13R sold by MIYOSHIKASEI Sodium salicylate 0.035 Vaseline oil Copolymer acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methylpropane sodium sulphonate sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 by the company SEPPIC Vitamin E: DL-alpha-tocopherol 0.1 Phosphoric acid Qs pH2.2 Deionized water Qs 100 Comparative oxidizing composition Compound B 'Hydrogen peroxide in solution at 50% (water 24 (12 MA ) oxygenated 200 vol.) Ethidronic acid, tetrasodium salt in 30% aqueous solution 0.2 Tetra-sodium pyrophosphate, 10H20 0.04 Sodium salicylate 0.035 Vaseline oil 50 glycerol 0.5 Cetyl-stearyl alcohol (C16 / C18, 30 / 70) 6 Stearyl oxyethylene alcohol 5 Protected oxyethylene (40E) rapeseed acid amide 1.3 Vitamin E: DL-alpha-tocopherol 0.1 Phosphoric acid Qs pH2.2 Deionized water Qs 100 Application method: The compositions are mixed according to the propo following orders and in the following order: Mix 1 according to the invention: 2 parts by weight of the composition B + 1 part by weight of the comparative composition A Mix 2: 2 parts by weight of the composition B '+ 1 part in weight of composition A.

Each resulting mixture is then applied to locks of natural brown pigs hair tone 4, at the rate of 10 g of mixture to 1 g of hair. The locks are then placed on a hot plate set at 27 ° C for 50 minutes.

The hair is then rinsed, washed with a post INOA shampoo and dried under a helmet at 40 ° C. Results: The lightening of the locks is measured using a MINOLTA CM3600D spectrocolorimeter. Wick lightening (LE) has been evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system. In this system L * a * b *, L * represents the intensity of the color, a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. The lower the value of L *, the darker or more intense the color.

The value of DE was calculated from the values of L * a * b * according to the following equation (i): A ELab V (I-L 0 *) 2 ± (a * ao *) 2 (b * bo (/) 2 * * (i) The lightening (AELab *) was calculated on untreated locks of hair (L0 *, a0 * and bO *) and on locks of colored hair (L *, a * and B*). In addition, the spread of the compositions is evaluated by hairdressing experts, after application of the compositions on the locks of hair of a panel of at least 10 people.

Results Mix 1 Mix 2 DE 29.8 28.5 Mixture fat content 43.40 64.9 Solids content of the mixture 20 0 The spreading of the keratinous fiber treatment composition according to the invention (Mix 1 ) is significantly improved over the spread of the comparative composition (Mix 2). The use of the compositions according to the invention is therefore clearly facilitated. In addition, the brightening results are comparable between the two compositions but with a significantly lower level of fat in the composition according to the invention compared to the comparative composition. This induces a much better environmental benefit, greater ease of disposal and lower formula cost.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. Process for the treatment of keratinous fibers, comprising the application to the keratinous fibers of a composition derived from the mixture of a composition A and a composition B in which: the composition A comprises at least one basifying agent, the composition B, comprises: o a fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance, o an aqueous phase, o insoluble solid particles different from the fatty substances, o at least one chemical oxidizing agent, it being understood that the total fat content represents less than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition resulting from the mixture of A and B. 2. Method according to claim 1 wherein the fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and non-silicone waxes, in particular plant-based waxes, non-silicone waxes, silicones, and their mixtures. 3. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one fatty substance liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. 4. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the fatty substances are preferably chosen from paraffin oils or petroleum jelly, C6-C16 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or alcohol different fatty acids, liquid fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof, more preferably from liquid paraffin or petroleum jelly oils. 5. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the content of fatty substances, preferably liquid, in the composition resulting from the mixture of composition A and B is less than or equal to 70% by weight relative to the poidstotal of the composition from the mixture of A and B, preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to 45%, preferably less than or equal to 40%. 6. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the fatty substances, preferably liquid, are present at a content ranging from 20 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition resulting from the mixture of A and B, preferably at a content ranging from 25 to 60% by weight, preferably at a content ranging from 30 to 50%. 7. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the chemical oxidizing agent is selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts such as persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates, preferably hydrogen peroxide. 8. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the chemical oxidizing agent or agents generally represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30%, better still from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the weight. total composition B. 9. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the insoluble solid particles are selected from silicate particles, silica particles, titanium oxide particles, zinc oxide particles, mica-titanium and as their mixtures. 10. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the insoluble solid particles are magnesium silicate particles, and more preferably a talc. 11. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the insoluble solid particles are coated with a hydrophobic surfactant, preferably polydimethylsiloxane. 12. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the insoluble solid particles are used at a content ranging from 0.01 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition B, preferably from 0.5 to 40. % by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 35% by weight 13. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the basifying agent (s) are mineral, organic or hybrid, and chosen in particular from alkanolamines. 14. Method according to one of the preceding claims wherein the composition A and / or composition B comprise at least one thickening polymer. 15. Method according to one of the preceding claims used for dyeing keratinous fibers and in particular hair. 16. Method according to one of the preceding claims used for the bleaching of keratin fibers and in particular hair.