FR2968956A1 - Composition, useful as make up or care composition for keratin materials, preferably skin or lips, comprises supramolecular hydrocarbon compound, silicone compound comprising polysiloxanes or siloxane unit and coloring material in medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition (A) comprises, in a medium, (a) at least one supramolecular hydrocarbon compound obtainable by reaction between: at least one oil having at least one reactive nucleophile comprising OH or NH; and at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more binding group partners, each pairing of a linking group involving at least 3 hydrogen bonds; (b) a silicone compound (B1) comprising polysiloxanes (IIa) or comprising at least one siloxane unit (IIb); and (c) a coloring material. Cosmetic composition (A) comprises, in a medium, (a) at least one supramolecular hydrocarbon compound obtainable by reaction between: at least one oil having at least one reactive nucleophile comprising OH or NH; and at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more binding group partners, each pairing of a linking group involving at least 3 hydrogen bonds, where the linking group bears at least one isocyanate or imidazole reactive function capable of reacting with reactive function carried by the oil, and linking group further comprises at least one 1H-pyrimidin-4-one unit of formula (I) or (II); (b) a silicone compound (B1) comprising polysiloxanes of formula (Q1-Si(R)(R)-O-[-SiRQ2-O-] m-[-SiRR-O-] n-Si(R)(R)-Q3) (IIa) or comprising at least one siloxane unit of formula (-(Q4-[-SiRR-O-] n-) c) (IIb); and (c) a coloring material. R1, R3 : radical comprising divalent carbon radical comprising (i) 1-32C alkyl group, (ii) 4-16C cycloalkyl and (iii) 4-16C aryl, optionally comprising 1-8 heteroatoms of O, N, S, F, Si or P, and/or optionally substituted by an ester, amide and/or 1-12C alkyl; R2 : H or linear, branched or cyclic, optionally saturated, optionally aromatic, 1-32C carbon group, preferably hydrocarbon group, (optionally including one or more heteroatoms comprising O, N, S, F, Si or P); R : linear, branched and/or cyclic, optionally saturated 1-20C, monovalent hydrocarbon group (including alkyl) optionally aromatic and containing one or more heteroatoms of O, S or N; Q1-Q3 : R, a linking group capable of forming at least 3 H bonds, preferably 4 H bonds, provided that at least one of the radicals Q1-Q3 is different from R in (IIa); divalent radical Q4 : a linking group capable of forming at least 3 hydrogen bonds, preferably 4 hydrogen bonds; n : 2-1000; m : 0-300; and c : 1-300, where m, n and c being such that the number average molecular weight (Mn) of the functionalized polysiloxane (IIa) or (IIb) is 500-100000. [Image].

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, especially for the care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin or the lips, comprising new compounds A (called, in the context of this application, supramolecular hydrocarbon compounds obtained from an oil) capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with partner junction groups, associated with a silicone supramolecular compound called compound B, and with a coloring material.

There are numerous cosmetic compositions for which gloss properties of the deposited film, after application to the keratin materials, are desired. Examples include lipsticks or nail polish. In order to obtain such a result, it is possible to associate particular raw materials, especially lanolins, with so-called brilliant oils such as polybutenes, or esters of fatty acid or alcohol whose carbon number is Student; or some vegetable oils; or else esters resulting from the partial or total esterification of an aliphatic compound hydroxylated with an aromatic acid, as described in the patent application E P 1097699.

However, these oils associated with compounds obtained by modifying oils with OH or NH 2 function, can cause a sticky problem. This sticky nature is uncomfortable and leads these formulas to leave traces on the supports such as glasses, coffee cups.

Moreover, when one seeks to obtain solid compositions, it is important that the structuring of the composition gives them sufficient strength to prevent it from breaking, for example when being applied to keratin materials, especially the skin or lips, while being stable over time (especially after 1 month at 23 ° C, as well as at 45 ° C).

Furthermore, the composition must also be easy to apply, especially in terms of slippery on application, and disintegration (quantity deposited)

The formulator is therefore in search of raw materials and / or systems that make it possible to obtain solid compositions which are easy to apply (slip on application), which are easily disintegrated and stable over time, the deposit of which on the skin or lips is non-transfer and is characterized by a non-sticky (or at least slightly sticky) effect. The object of the present invention is to propose cosmetic compositions which are easy to apply (sliding on application) which make it possible to obtain such a uniform deposit on keratin materials, the said deposit having good resistance, in particular color, while being non-transfer and non-sticky (or not very sticky) and particularly comfortable to wear.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratinous substances (in particular of the skin or the lips), comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least (a) a hydrocarbon compound A (called, in the context of this application, supramolecular compound) obtainable by reaction between: at least one oil carrying at least one nucleophilic reactive function selected from OH and NH 2, and at least one linking group capable of to establish hydrogen bonds with one or more partner joining groups, each pairing of a linking group involving at least 3 hydrogen bonds, said linking group carrying at least one isocyanate or imidazole reactive functional group capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the oil, said junction group further comprising at least one unit of formula (I) or (II): ## STR1 ## in which: R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear or branched C1-alkyl group; ## STR2 ## -C32, (ii) a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group and (iii) a C4-C16 aryl group; optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-C12 alkyl radical; or a mixture of these groups; R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, hydrocarbon radical, in C1-C32, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and P; (b) silicone compound B chosen from polysiloxanes corresponding to the following formula (IIa) or comprising at least one unit of formula (IIb) according to: RRRR Qi Si-O [Si-O] m [Si-O] in which: the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon-based (especially alkyl) hydrocarbon-based group; saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic C1-C20, which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S and N;

the radicals Q1, Q2 and Q3, identical or different, monovalent, represent either a radical R as defined above; or a linking group capable of forming at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds, and most preferably 4 H bonds; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Q1 to Q3 is different from R in the formula (Ila);

the divalent radical Q4 represents a linking group capable of forming at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds, and even more preferably 4 H bonds;

- n is an integer between 2 and 1000; m is an integer from 0 to 300; - c is an integer between 1 and 300; And wherein m, n and c are such that the number average molecular weight (Mn) of the functionalized polysiloxane (Ila) or (Ilb) is between 500 and 100,000; (C) a coloring matter.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one silicone oil, preferably non-volatile. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the makeup of keratin materials, especially prau and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratin materials, and in particular the skin and / or the lips, of a composition according to the invention. Supramolecular compounds: Compounds A are hydrocarbon compounds. By "hydrocarbon" is meant a compound consisting essentially, or even consisting of carbon atoms and hydrogen, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus and not containing silicon atom or fluorine atom.

Compounds A (also referred to as hydrocarbon supramolecular compounds) functionalized according to the present invention are in the form of a solid; this allows in particular to form a non-sticky material, which does not transfer to the finger when applied to the keratin materials; this is not the case with the functionalized compounds of the prior art, especially as described in US Pat. No. 5,70,712, which are in the form of a liquid, more or less viscous, and which form a sticky material which transfers to the finger after application to keratin materials. Furthermore, it has been found that the crosslinking through four hydrogen bonds, via the ureidopyrimidone groups, could make it possible to increase the strength of this crosslinking, and thus improve the holding of the desired cosmetic effect, in particular keeping the deposit or gloss. In addition, the compounds or functionalized oils according to the invention are easily transportable in the usual cosmetic media, especially the usual cosmetic oily media. They are advantageously compatible with the oils usually present in cosmetic compositions, and also have good pigment or charge dispersion properties.

They are easily transportable in solvent or oily cosmetic media, especially oils, fatty alcohols and / or fatty esters, which facilitates their use in the cosmetic field, especially in lipsticks. They have a suitable solubility in various cosmetic oily media, such as vegetable oils, alkanes, short butyl acetate esters or ethyl, or fatty, fatty alcohols and especially in environments comprising isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, and / or a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention also have good applicability and good coverage; good adhesion to the support, whether on the nail, eyelashes, skin or lips; adequate film flexibility and strength, as well as an excellent level of durable gloss. The comfort and slip properties are also very satisfying.

Generally speaking, in the context of the present application, compounds A may be referred to as "supramolecular hydrocarbon compounds" by corn-55 modi and for greater clarity.

The hydrocarbon A (or so-called supramolecular hydrocarbon) compounds of the compositions according to the invention may be obtained by reaction between: at least one oil bearing at least one nucleophilic reactive functional group chosen from OH 5 and NH 2, and at least one joining group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a linking group involving at least 3 hydrogen bonds, said linking group carrying at least one isocyanate or imidazole reactive function capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the oil, said joining group further comprising at least one unit of formula (I) or (II): ## STR2 ## In which: R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear alkyl group or (II) branched in C1-C32, (ii) a group C4-C16 cycloalkyl; and (iii) C4-C16 aryl; optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-C12 alkyl radical; or a mixture of these groups; R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, carbon radical, containing from 1 to 32 carbon atoms, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and F; , Si and P.

In the end, the supramolecular compounds of the compositions according to the invention therefore comprise at least one part (HB) originating from the oil and at least one part (G) originating from the joining group, said part (G) comprising at least one pattern of formula (I) or (II). In particular, said parts (HB) and (G) are connected by a covalent bond, in particular can be connected by a covalent bond formed during the reaction between the OH and / or NH 2 reactive functional groups carried by the oil and the isocyanate functions carried. by the joining group; or between the reactive functions NH2 carried by the oil and the isocyanate or imidazole functions carried by the linking group.

It is thus possible, in particular, to schematize the preferential obtaining of the compounds according to the invention by the chemical reaction between the following entities: (HB) - (OH) m (NH 2) n + (G) - (NCO), or else (HB ) - (OH) m (NH2) n + (G) - (imidazole), with m, n and p being non-zero integers.

The oil which can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound according to the invention, which can preferably be represented schematically (HB) - (OH) m (NH 2) n, is a fatty substance or a mixture of fatty substances, not crystalline at 25 ° C, liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25 ° C, 1 atm.); preferably apolar, or preferably preferably not soluble in water.

Preferably, the oil that can be used to prepare the supra-molecular compound according to the invention is non-polymeric.

By liquid is meant that the viscosity of the compound is less than or equal to 2500 centipoise, at 110 ° C., 1 atm., Measured with a Brookfield DV-I or Brookfield Cap 1000+ rheometer, the person skilled in the art choosing apparatus suitable for measuring viscosity. By apolar is meant a compound whose HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) value is low; in particular less than or equal to 8, preferably less than or equal to 4, and more preferably less than or equal to 2; preferentially, the value of HLB must be sufficiently low to make it possible to obtain a supramolecular material which is not, or not too much, hygroscopic. By non-soluble it is meant that the fraction of oil which can dissolve in water, at 25 ° C., 1 atm., Is less than 5% by weight (ie 5 g of oil in 100 ml of water ); preferably less than 3%. By fatty substance is meant in particular but not exclusively, a hydrocarbon compound comprising one or more alkyl chains, linear, cyclic, branched, saturated or unsaturated, having at least 6 carbon atoms and may comprise polar groups such as an acid group, a hydroxyl or polyol, amine, amide, phosphoric acid, phosphate, ester, ether, urea, carbamate, thiol, thioether, thioester, this chain may contain up to 100 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the oil which can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound according to the invention is a glossy oil, that is to say having a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.46 at 25.degree. , in particular between 1.46 and 1.55 (the refraction index being defined with respect to the D line of sodium, at 25 ° C.).

Preferably, the oil which can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound according to the invention is a non-volatile oil. The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that can remain on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). Preferably, the oil has a molar mass (Mw) of between 150 and 6000, especially between 170 and 4000, or even between 180 and 2000, preferably between 200 and 1500, and more preferably between 220 and 800 g / mol.

The oil that can be used in the context of the present invention to prepare the supramolecular compound carries at least one reactive functional group capable of reacting with the reactive function carried on the linking group, in particular capable of reacting chemically with the groups isocyanates or imidazole carried by the joining group; preferably, this function is an OH or NH 2 function. Preferably, the oil comprises only OH functions, in particular 1 to 3 OH functions, preferably primary or secondary OH functions, and still better only primary.

The oil according to the present invention is preferably a carbonaceous oil, in particular a hydrocarbon oil, which, in addition to the reactive functional group capable of reacting with the linking group, may comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus. The oil is very preferably selected from cosmetically acceptable oils.

The oil that can be used in the context of the present invention to prepare the supramolecular compound may be chosen from:

(i) fatty alcohols, comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 1 or more OH; optionally comprising one or more NH 2. Mention may in particular be made of: linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 28, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols, and in particular isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and oleic alcohol; , oleyl alcohol, isopalmitoyl alcohol, butyl-2-octanol, hexyl-2-decane, 2-octyl decanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-octyltetradecanol, decylbenzoyl, 2 tetradecanol, 2-dodecyl hexadecanol, and especially the alcohols sold under the name Jarcol by Jarchem Industries, such as Jarcol I-12, Jarcol I-16, Jarcol I-20 and Jarcol I-24; linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 40, in particular C 8 -C 38, saturated or unsaturated diols, and in particular branched C 32-36, and in particular the commercial product Pripol 2033 from Unigema; linear or branched triols of C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 28, saturated or unsaturated, and especially phytantriol; (ii) esters and ethers bearing at least one free OH group, and in particular esters and partial polyol ethers, and hydroxylated carboxylic acid esters.

By partial polyol ester is meant the esters prepared by esterification of a polyol with a carboxylic acid, substituted or unsubstituted, the reaction not being total, that is to say not carried out on all the free OH of the polyol; in the end, the ester therefore still has at least one free OH. Preferably, the carboxylic acid is a monoacid. It is also possible to use a mixture of carboxylic acids, in particular monocarboxylic acids.

Partial polyol ether is understood to mean the ethers prepared by etherification of a polyol, on itself or with at least one other alcohol, mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably monoalcohol, the etherification reaction not being complete, c that is, not performed on all the free OHs of the polyol; in the end, the ether still has at least one free OH.

By hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester is meant the esters (mono and poly) prepared by reaction between a carboxylic acid carrying at least one OH function, and one or more alcohols (mono or poly), preferably monoalcohol, the reaction. may be total or partial (performed on all or part of the free OH of the alcohol).

Among the polyols which may be used to prepare the above esters or ethers, mention may be made of propylene glycol, glycerol, neopentyl glycol, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolethane, polyglycerols and especially polyglycerol-2, polyglycerol-3 and polyglycerol. -10; erythritol, dipentaerythritol, pentaerythritol, di-trimethylolpropane, phytantriol, sucrose, glucose, methylglucose, sorbitol, fructose, xylose, mannitol, glucosamine; as well as diol dimers in particular obtained from dimeric fatty acids, especially C32-C38 branched diols, especially C36, aliphatic and / or alycyclic diols, such as those defined in the Hofer et al. European Coating Journal (March 2000), pages 26-37; and their mixtures.

Among the monoalcohols that can be used to prepare the above esters or ethers, mention may be made of linear or branched, preferably branched, C 3 -C 50 alcohols, and especially 2-ethylhexanol, octanol, alcohol and the like. isostearyl, and mixtures thereof.

Among the carboxylic acids which may be used to prepare the above esters or ethers, mention may be made of monoacids having 6 to 50 carbon atoms and diacids having 3 to 12 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, among which may be mentioned octyldodecyl acid, hexyldecyl acid, ethylhexylic acid, isostearic acid, nonanoic acid, isononanoic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, oxalic acid, adipic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, capric acid, hexanedioic acid, decyl acid, acid decanoic, and their mixtures.

Among the hydroxylated carboxylic acids that may be used to prepare the above esters or ethers, mention may be made of monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, preferably monohydroxylated acids; having 4 to 28 carbon atoms for example, and especially 12-hydroxystearic acid, ricinoleic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid; and their mixtures.

Thus, the oil which may be used to prepare the supramolecular compound in the present invention may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture: the partial esters of pentaerythritol, and in particular pentaerythrityl adipate, pentaerythrityl caprate, pentaerythrityl succinate, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, pentaerythrityl triisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl triisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetradecyltetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctyl dodecanoate. dipentaerythritol diesters, triesters, tetraesters or pentaesters, and especially dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate, dipentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, dipentaerythrityl tri (polyhydroxystearate); trimethylolpropane mono- and di-esters, such as trimethylolpropane monoisostearate, trimethylolpropane diisostearate, trimethylolpropane monoethyl-2-hexylate and trimethylolpropane diethyl-2-hexylate; mono-, di- and tri-esters of di-trimethylolpropane such as di-trimethylolpropane diisostearate, di-trimethylolpropane triisostearate, di-trimethylolpropane tri-ethyl hexanoate; the mono-esters or partial polyesters of glycerol or polyglycerols, and especially: glycerol di-isostearate, glycerol di-isononanoate, polyglycerol-2 mono-, di- and tri-esters; for example with isostearic acid, 2-ethyl hexyl acid and / or isononanoic acid; and in particular polyglyceryl-2-isostearate; polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate; polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; polyglyceryl-2-nonaisostearate; polyglyceryl-2-nonanoate; mono-, di-, tri- or tetra-esters of polyglycerol-3; for example with either isostearic acid, 2-ethyl hexyl acid and / or isononanoic acid; and especially polyglyceryl-3-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate; polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate; polyglyceryl-3-nonaisostearate; polyglyceryl-3-nonanoate; partial esters of polyglycerol-10 and in particular polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate; polyglyceryl-10-nonanoate; polyglyceryl-10-isostearate, polyglyceryl-10-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 triisostearate; propylene glycol monoesters such as propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol neopentanoate, propylene glycol monooctanoate; dimer-diol monoesters such as isostearyl dimer dilinoleate and octyl dodecyl dimer dilinoleate; glycerol ethers, such as polyglyceryl-2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl-3-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl-3-decyltetradecyl ether and polyglyceryl-2 stearyl; esters between hydroxylated mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acid and monoalcohols, and in particular: esters, in particular monoesters, of 12-hydroxystearic acid; such as octyl hydroxystearate and octyl-2-dodecyl hydroxystearate; mention may also be made of the corresponding oligomeric polyhydroxystearates, in particular having a degree of polymerization of 1 to 10, having at least one residual OH; esters of lactic acid, and in particular C4-40 alkyl lactates, such as 2-ethylhexyl lactate, diisostearyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, isononyl lactate, lactate, 2-octyldodecyl; malic acid esters, and in particular C4-40 alkyl malates, such as 2-diethyl hexyl malate, diisostearyl malate, 2-dioctyl dodecyl malate; esters of citric acid, and in particular C4-40 alkyl citrates, such as triisostearyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate and tri-isoarachidyl citrate.

(iii) natural, modified, vegetable, hydroxylated natural oils and in particular: - triglycerine esters carrying one or more OH, - castor oil, hydrogenated or not, and its derivatives, especially those resulting from the transesterification of 'Castor oil; like the Polycin M-365 or Polycin 2525 products sold by Vertellus; modified epoxidized oils, the modification consisting of opening the epoxy function to obtain a diol, and especially hydroxylated modified soybean oil; hydroxylated soybean oils (directly hydroxylated or first epoxidized); and in particular Agrol 2.0, Agrol 3.0 or Agrol 7.0 oils marketed by BioBased Technologies, LLC; Soyol oil R2-052 from Urethane Soy System; Renuva oils marketed by Dow Chemical; BioH Polyol 210 and 500 oils marketed by Cargill.

According to a first particularly preferred embodiment, the oil that can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound in the context of the present invention is chosen from fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 1 or more OH; optionally comprising one or more NH 2, such as: linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 28, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols, and in particular isostearyl alcohol, alcohol Cetyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isopalmitoyl alcohol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-octyl decanol, 2-octyl dodecanol, 2-octyltetradecanol 2-decetetradecanol, 2-dodecyl hexadecanol, and especially the alcohols sold under the name Jarcol by Jarchem Industries, such as Jarcol I-12, Jarcol I-16, Jarcol I-20 and Jarcol. 1-24; linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 40, especially C 8 -C 38, saturated or unsaturated diols, and in particular branched C 32-36 diols, and in particular the commercial product Pripol 2033 from Unigema; linear or branched triols of C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 28, saturated or unsaturated, and especially phytantriol;

According to this first preferred embodiment, the oil which can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound in the context of the present invention is preferably chosen from linear or branched C 6 -C 50 and especially C 6 -C 32 monohydric alcohols. , in particular C8-C28, saturated or unsaturated, and in particular isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isopalmitoyl alcohol, butyl-2-octanol, hexyl-2 decanol, 2-octyl decanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-octyltetradecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, 2-dodecyl hexadecanol, and especially the alcohols sold under the name Jarcol by the company Jarchem Industries, such as Jarcol I-12, Jarcol I-16, Jarcol I-20 and Jarcol I-24.

According to a second particularly preferred embodiment, the oil which can be used to prepare the supramolecular compound in the context of the present invention is chosen from the esters of hydroxylated mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acid and monoalcohols. and in particular: esters, in particular monoesters, of 12-hydroxystearic acid; such as octyl hydroxystearate and octyl-2-dodecyl hydroxystearate; mention may also be made of the corresponding oligomeric polyhydroxystearates, in particular having a degree of polymerization of 1 to 10, having at least one residual OH; esters of lactic acid, and in particular C4-40 alkyl lactates, such as 2-ethylhexyl lactate, diisostearyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, isononyl lactate, lactate, 2-octyldodecyl; malic acid esters, and in particular C4-40 alkyl malates, such as 2-diethyl hexyl malate, diisostearyl malate, 2-dioctyl dodecyl malate; esters of citric acid, and in particular C4-40 alkyl citrates, such as triisostearyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate and tri-isoarachidyl citrate.

According to this second preferred embodiment, the oil which may be used in the context of the present invention is preferably chosen from the esters of hydroxyl-substituted dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohols, and in particular of malic acid, and especially the C4-40 alkyl malates, such as 2-diethyl hexyl malate, diisostearyl malate, 2-dioctyl dodecyl malate.

In particular, when using glossy oils, the following brilliant oils can be employed, for which the refractive index at 25 ° C is indicated in parentheses: polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (1.472), phytantriol (1.467 ), castor oil (1,475), octyl-2-dodecanol (1.46), oleyl alcohol (1.461), octyl hydroxystearate (1.46), polyglyceryl-2-isostearate (1,468), polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate (1,464), diisostearyl malate (1,462), butyl-2-octanol, 2-hexyl decanol (1.45), decyl-2-tetradecanol (1.457) , as well as their mixtures.

Preferably, the oils which may be employed in the present invention for preparing the supramolecular compound are chosen from octyl-2-dodecanol, diisostearyl malate, butyl-2-octanol, 2-hexyl decanol and decyl. -2 tetradecanol; castor oil, hydrogenated or not, as well as its derivatives; hydroxylated modified soybean oil, and mixtures thereof.

Junction Group The junction group that can be used to form the supramolecular compound of the compositions according to the invention carries at least one reactive group, in particular isocyanate or imidazole, which is capable of reacting with the reactive functional groups, in particular OH and / or NH 2 ( NH2 only for imidazole), oil, in order to form a covalent bond, especially of urethane type, between said oil and said joining group.

In a preferred manner, the linking group that can be used to form the supramolecular compound of the compositions according to the invention carries at least one reactive group, in particular isocyanate.

Said linking group is capable of establishing H bonds with one or more joint joining groups, of identical or different chemical nature, each pairing of a joining group involving at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably minus 4 H bonds, preferably 4 H bonds.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "linking group" is intended to mean any functional group comprising donor groups or acceptors of H bonds and capable of establishing at least three H bonds, preferably at least four H bonds, preferably four H bonds, with a partner junction group, identical or not. For the purposes of the invention, the term "partner joining group" means any joining group capable of establishing H bonds with one or more joining groups of the same or another polymer according to the invention. The joining groups can be of identical or different chemical nature. If they are identical, they can then establish H links between them and are then called self-complementary join groups. If they are different, they are chosen so that they are complementary to the H interactions.

Said linking group carrying isocyanate groups can therefore be schematized (G) - (NCO), p being a non-zero integer, preferably 1 or 2.

The junction group also comprises at least one monovalent unit of formula (I) and / or at least one divalent unit of formula (II), as defined below: ## EQU1 ## In which: R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a group (II) wherein R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a group linear or branched C1-C32 alkyl, (ii) a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group and (iii) a C4-C16 aryl group; optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-C12 alkyl radical; or a mixture of these groups; R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, C 1 -C 32 hydrocarbon (alkyl) radical, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S; , F, Si and P.

Preferably, the linking group also comprises at least one monovalent unit of formula (I).

In particular, the radical R 1 may especially be: a linear or branched C2-C12 divalent alkylene group, especially a 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene or 1,6- ( 2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4- (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene), 1,6- (6-methylheptylene), 1,5- trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene). a divalent C 4 -C 12 cycloalkylene or arylene group, especially chosen from the following radicals -isophorone-, tolylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene, 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène; 4,4-bisphénylèneméthylène; or of structure: Preferably, R1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH2) 6-methylenebiscyclohexylene.

In particular, the radical R 2 can in particular be H, or else: a C 1 -C 32 alkyl group, in particular a C 1 -C 16 or even a C 1 -C 10 alkyl group; a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group; a C4-C12 aryl group; a (C 4 -C 12) aryl (C 1 -C 18) alkyl group; a (C 1 -C 4) alkoxy group; an arylalkoxy group, in particular a (C 1 -C 4) aryl alkoxy group; a C4-C12 heterocycle by -isophorone means the divalent radical of structure: OH3 or 4,4'- or a combination of these radicals, which may optionally be substituted by an amino, ester and / or hydroxyl function. Preferably, R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9).

Preferably, R3 represents a divalent radical -R'3-0-C (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, which are identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from an alkyl group linear or branched C1-C32 or a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group or a C4-C16 aryl group; or their mixture.

In particular, R '3 and R' 4 may represent methylene, 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene, 1,6- (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4 (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene); 1,6- (6-méthylheptylène); 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene); 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-bisphénylèneméthylène; 1,2-tolylene, 1,4-tolylene, 2,4-tolylene, 2,6-tolylene; 1,5-naphthylene; tetramethylxylylene; isophorone. In particular, R'3 can represent a C1-C4 alkylene, especially 1,2-ethylene. Preferably, R'4 may represent the divalent radical derived from isophorone.

In particular, R3 can be of structure: H3 / CH3 CH3 O

Particularly preferably, in formula (I), there may be: - R 1 = -isophorone-, R 2 = methyl, which leads to the unit of formula: CH 3 - R 1 = - (CH 2) 6 -, R 2 = methyl which leads to the unit of formula: ## STR2 ## R 2 = isopropyl, which leads to the unit of formula: ## STR3 ## In a particularly preferred manner, in the formula (II), R 1 represents the radical - isophorone -, R 2 = methyl and R 3 = - (CH 2) 2 O - methylbiscyclohex. -NH-isophorone-, which leads to the divalent motif of formula: The: junction groups carrying a. The only isocyanate function may be of formula ## STR2 ## wherein R 1 and R 2 are as defined above; and in particular: RI is-isophorone-, - (CH2) 8-, -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (CH3) 2-CH2-CH2i, 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3- phenylene; and / or - R2 represents H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9). Preferably, the linking groups can be selected from the following groups: NCO H H

The linking groups carrying two isocyanate functional groups may be of the formula: ## STR2 ## in which R 1, R 2 and R 3 are as defined above, and in particular - R 1 represents isophorone, - (CH 2) 2 - (CHO6-, -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (GI-13) 2-CH2-CH2, 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene, and / or - R2 represents H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C21-15) (C4Hg) and / or - R3 represents a radical divalent -R'3-0-C (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, which are identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl group or a C 4 -C 12 cycloalkyl group or a C 1 -C 12 aryl group, or mixtures thereof, and especially R '3 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkylene, especially 1,2-ethylene and R' 4 represents the divalent radical derived isophorone A particularly preferred joining group is that of Formula: H 1 N Nco N 1 H 1 NCO Among the junction groups bearing an imidazole group, mention may be made of the following compound H According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the linking groups may be attached to the oil via the functionalization of the junction group by an isocyanate or imidazole. According to another embodiment, it is possible to carry out the reverse reaction by pre-conditioning the oil with a diisocyanate.

As mentioned above (the mode), the compound according to the invention can thus result from the chemical reaction between an oil (HB) - (OH) n, (NH 2) n and a junction group (G). (NCO) p or (G) - (imidazole) p. Preferably, the oil comprises only hydroxyl functions and the linking group comprises 1 or 2 isocyanate functions, which leads to the following reactions: (HB) - (OH) m + OCN- (G) -NCO (HB ) -OC (O) NH- (G) -NHC (O) - (HB) (HB) - (OH), + (G) -NCO (HB) -OC (O) NH- (G) with m = integer greater than or equal to 1 Preferably, the degree of grafting free OH of the oil is between 1 and 100%, especially between 20 and 99%, and more preferably between 50 and 95%; preferably, this level is 100% (all the free OH is functionalized by a linking group), especially when the oil initially comprises only one OH function. The supramolecular compound according to the invention may be prepared by the methods usually employed by those skilled in the art to form a urethane linkage between the free OH functions of the oil and the isocyanate functional groups carried by the linking group. By way of illustration, a general method of preparation consists in ensuring that the oil to be functionalized contains no residual water, heating the oil comprising at least one reactive function, in particular OH, to a temperature can be between 60 ° C and 140 ° C; add the junction group carrying the reactive functions, in particular isocyanate; optionally stirring the mixture, under a controlled atmosphere, at a temperature of the order of 100-130 ° C .; for 1 to 24 hours; followed by infrared spectroscopy, the disappearance of the isocyanate characteristic band (between 2500 and 2800 cm-1) so as to stop the reaction to the total disappearance of the peak, then allow the final product to return to ambient temperature; . The reaction may be carried out in the presence of a solvent, especially methyltetrahydrofuran, tetrahydrofuran, toluene or butyl acetate; the reaction can also be carried out without solvent, the oil then being able to serve as a solvent. It is also possible to add a conventional catalyst for urethane bond formation. By way of example, mention may be made of dibutyl tin dilaurate. The supramolecular compound can ultimately be washed and dried, or even purified, according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

According to the second embodiment, the reaction may comprise the following steps: (i) functionalization of the oil with a diisocyanate according to the reaction scheme: (HB) -OH (1 eq.) + NCO-X-NCO ( 1 eq.) -> (HB) -OC (O) -NH-X-NCO then (IIa) either reaction with 6-methylisocytosine (HB) -OC (O) -NX-NCO (HB) - OC (O) N- or (iib) is reaction with 5-hydroxyethyl-6-methyl isocytosine (HB) -OC (O) -NX-NCO + (HB) -OC (O) NX, An illustration of such a reaction is given in FOLMER et al., Adv. Mater, 12, 874-78 (2000). Or of structure: The supramolecular hydrocarbon compounds (compounds A) of the compositions according to the invention can in particular respond to the following structures: - functionalized octyldodecanol ureidopyrimidone structure: 30 - functionalized diisostearyl malate ureidopyrimidone structure: OO ~ NO 0 isostearyl isostearyl O isostearyl-oo 'o 1 isostearyl Or of structure: x isostearyl- - functionalized castor oil ureidopyrimidone structure: Or of structure: OH - 2-hexyl decanol functionalized ureidopyrimidone structure: Or of structure: - 2-decyltetradecanol functionalized ureidopyrimidone structure: Or of structure: ON o IIHH It has been found that the use of hydrocarbon compounds A can lead, after application of the composition on keratin materials, to the formation of supermolecular polymer in the form of a physically crosslinked network, especially hydrogen bonds, generally in the form of a film, and having a very good mechanical strength. For the purposes of the invention, the term "supramolecular polymer" means a polymer chain or network formed from the assembly of non-polymeric compounds according to the invention with at least one other non-polymer compound according to the invention, which is identical or different, each assembly comprising at least one pair of paired, identical or different joining groups. For the purposes of the invention, the term "pair of paired joining groups" means two joining groups, each of which may or may not be carried by the same compound according to the invention, the two groups being connected together via 4 Thus, the supramolecular polymer will have physical cross-linking points provided by the H bonds between these pairs of joining groups. The physical crosslinking will ensure the maintenance and persistence of the cosmetic effect in a manner analogous to the chemical crosslinking, while allowing reversibility, that is to say the possibility of completely eliminating the deposit.

Preferably, the supramolecular hydrocarbon compound A used in the compositions according to the invention has a viscosity, measured at 125 ° C., of between 30 and 6000 mPa.s, in particular between 150 and 4000 mPa.s, and even between 500 and 3500 mPa. and still better between 750 and 3000 mPa.s.

The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the supramolecular hydrocarbon compound of the composition according to the invention is preferably between 180 to 8000, preferably 200 to 6000, or even 300 to 4000, and even more preferably 400 to 3000, preferentially from 500 to 1500.

The supramolecular hydrocarbon compound is advantageously soluble in the oily cosmetic mediums usually employed, and in particular in vegetable oils, C 6 -C 32 alkanes, C 8 -C 32 fatty esters, C 2 -C 7 short esters and fatty alcohols. at C8-C32, and more particularly in the media comprising at least isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, butyl, ethyl acetate, alone or in admixture. By soluble is meant that the compound forms a clear solution in at least one solvent selected from isododecane, Parleam, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, acetate butyl acetate, at least 50% by weight, at 25 ° C.

The supramolecular hydrocarbon compounds may advantageously be used in a cosmetic composition, which moreover comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with keratin materials such as the skin of the face or the body, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, lips and nails.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of supramolecular hydrocarbon compound A of between 5% and 95% by weight, preferably between 10% and 95% by weight, and more preferably between 20% and 90% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

By way of example of supramolecular hydrocarbon compounds A that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds: Compound 1: Functionalized Octyldodecanol Ureidopyrimidone 70 g of ureidopyrimidone diisocyanate are dissolved in methyl tetrahydrofuran, under argon . 80.3 g of octyldodecanol are added to 100 ml of dichloromethane under argon and then 15 microliters of dibutyltin dilaurate (catalyst). The reaction mixture is refluxed until the peak of isocyanate (2250-2265 cm-1) has disappeared by IR spectrometry. The excess octyldodecanol is removed by washing the reaction medium successively with methanol, followed by three extractions and drying over MgSO 4. After evaporation of the organic phase, 103 g of a slightly yellow powder are obtained, characterized by 1 H NMR (conformal structure).

This powder may be carried in isododecane, for example at a concentration of 10% by weight; this concentration can range in particular up to 60% by weight in iso-45 dodecane, which then leads to a viscous but still manipulable solution. It is therefore found that, by functionalization with a ureidopyrimidane, a liquid oil is pissed to a solid which can be transported in isododecane at concentrations greater than 30%.

When a solution comprising 50% by weight of compound in risododecane is applied, after evaporation of the solvent, a transparent and glossy film is obtained, which has a good adherence by fragmentation, and a low resistance to friction.

Compound 2: Diisostearyl malate functionalized with a ureidopyrimidone 15 g (0.0234 mol) of diisostearyl malate are dried under reduced pressure at 80 ° C. for 4 hours. 7.21 g (0.0117 mol) of ureidopyrimidone diisocyanate dissolved in 60 ml of methyltetrahydrofuran and 12 μl of dilaurate dibutyltin catalyst are added. The mixture is heated at 95 ° C. under argon for 26 hours (disappearance of the characteristic band of isocyanates by IR spectroscopy). Methyl tetrahydrofuran (20 ml) is added to the reaction mixture and then filtered through Celite. After evaporation of the solvent and drying under reduced pressure, a pale yellow solid is obtained.

Compound 3: Castor oil functionalized with a ureidopyrimidone 15 g of castor oil (0.016 mole) are dried under reduced pressure at 80 ° C. for 4 hours. A solution of 4.9 g of ureidopyrimidone diisocyanate (0.008 mol) in 60 ml of methyltetrahydrofuran and 12 μl of dibutyltin dilaurate catalyst is added. The mixture is heated at 90 ° C. for 19 hours (complete disappearance of the isocyanate characteristic band by IR spectroscopy). At the end of the reaction, the solvent is evaporated and the resulting product is dried under reduced pressure at 35 ° C overnight.

A pale yellow solid gum is obtained.

Compound 4 (Comparative to Example 1) Octvldodecanal Functionalized by H Dryed under reduced pressure 10 g of octyldodecanof at 80 ° C. for 2 hours, then 3.72 g of isophorone diisocyanate and 25 microliter of catalyst were added. Dibutyl tin dilaurate The mixture is heated to 95 ° C. under argon The disappearance of the isocyanate is monitored by IR spectroscopy (disappearance of the band between 2250 and 2265 cm -1 after 12 hours of heating). viscous, not forming a cohesive material.

Compound 5 (Comparative Example 2): Sophorone functionalized diisostearyl malate 10 g (0.0159 mol) of diisostearyl malate are dried under reduced pressure at 80 ° C. for 3 hours. 1.77 g (0.079 mol) of isophorone diisocyanate and 2.5 μl of catalyst (dibutyl tin dilaurate) are added under argon and the reaction mixture is heated with isophorone OH + OCN 95 ° C. for 16 hours. During the reaction, the viscosity of the reaction medium increases. The reaction is stopped after the disappearance of the characteristic peak of the isocyanates by IR spectroscopy.

Compound 6 (Comparative to Example 3): Isophorone functionalized castor oil 15 g (0.016 mole) of castor oil are dried under reduced pressure at 80 ° C for 6 hours. 1.78 g (0.008 mol) of isophorone diisocyanate and 12 μl of dilaurate dibutyltin catalyst are added, and the mixture is heated at 90 ° C. for 16 hours. The reaction is stopped after the disappearance of the characteristic peak of the isocyanates by IR spectroscopy.

EXAMPLE 7 The compounds prepared in Examples 1 to 6 are visually and by touch, and the results are summarized in the following table: Physical Appearance Film Appearance of Compound Refractive Index ** (Refractive Index Non-Functionalized Oil) Compound Solid yellow Glossy and sticky film, which does not dewake; homogeneous deposit. Without transfer to the finger. 1.488 (1.46) Compound 4 Viscous oil Film that dews; non homogeneous deposition. Trans-transparent iron on the finger. 1.474 (1.46) (comparative) Compound 2 Yellow solid Glossy film that does not stick; homogeneous deposition. Without transfer to the finger. 1.478 (1.462) Compound 5 Viscous oil Sticky glossy film that dews; non-homogeneous, transparent deposit. Without transfer to the finger. 1.4598 (1.462) (comparative) Compound 3 Yellow solid Glossy, slightly tacky film; behavior (solid gum) of a fragile solid, which does not dewake; homogeneous deposition. Without transfer to the finger. 1.4852_0.48) Compound 6 Viscous oil Highly sticky shiny film, which dews; homogeneous non-transparent deposit. Transfer to the finger. 1.4813 (1.48) (comparative) * The films are formed from a solution containing 40% by weight of the compound, either in isododecane for Examples 1-2 and 4-5, or in tetrahydrofuran for compounds 3 and 6. ** For refractive index measurements, all films are formed from a 40% by weight solution of the compound in tetrahydrofuran; the refractive index is measured after evaporation of the solvent. The film which does not dewake means that after deposition and evaporation of the solvent, a true homogeneous continuous film is obtained. The film dew means that after deposition and evaporation of the solvent, a hole film is obtained, non-homogeneous, non-continuous. A tribometer test is carried out on these deposits / films: the films are formed from a 40% by weight solution in tetrahydrofuran by depositing on a nitrile elastomer and then drying for 24 hours at 25 ° C. The tests are carried out using a CSEM tribometer equipped with a 6mm diameter ball.

This ball subjected to a load of 0.15N repeatedly rubs on a film (10 to 20 μm thick). The speed of rotation of the disk is fixed at 6.3 cm / s which corresponds to a frequency of one revolution per second. The test is finished when the wear is total, or stopped after 1000 turns of solicitation. Remarks Compound 1 The film remains unchanged (homogeneous) for 300 turns (no wear or breakage); the material is therefore cohesive; behavior of a solid. Compound 4 No measurement possible: the material is loose, it behaves like an oil (comparatit) Compound 2 The film remains unchanged (homogeneous) for 1000 turns (no wear or breakage); the material is therefore very cohesive and does not wear out. Compound 5 The material behaves like an oil, with a buttering effect when it is subjected to the wear test. (comparative) Example 3 The film is a little brittle but remains unchanged for 10 turns; after 10 turns, the wear is sharper; this reflects the behavior of a solid Compound 6 No measurement possible because no film formed ab initio behavior of an oil (comparative) It is therefore found that there is no decrease in the refractive index after functionalization. The oil keeps its brilliant character, even functionalized. It is also noted that the functionalization with ureïdopyrimidones leads to more or less sticky films, but which do not transfer to the finger, unlike the comparative films. In addition, and mainly, in the case of isophorone functionalized oils (comparative), the films dewake and do not form a homogeneous deposit. In contrast, the films obtained from the compounds according to the invention do not dewake and are homogeneous and cohesive. The tribometer results confirm the cohesion properties obtained with the compounds of the invention. The functionalization with ureiopyrimidones thus leads to sufficiently cohesive materials to be able to ensure a remanence of the deposit, which is, moreover, brilliant, superior to the state of the art (isophorone). In summary: the brightness is constant, the cohesion of the improved deposit and therefore its amé-20 liorée.

Compound 8: Diisostearyl malate functionalized with a ureidopyrimidone

Preparation protocol Preparation of the supramolecular oil: diisostearyl malate functionalized with a ureidopyrimidone 150 g of diisostearyl malate was cast for 1 h 20 at 50 ° C. in a solution of 57.4 g isophorone diisocyanate and 38 g of methyl isocytosine, presence of dibutyltin dilaurate catalyst with exothermic control and inert atmosphere. Stirring was maintained for 55 minutes at 50 ° C after casting and then 50 ml propylene carbonate was added. The temperature of the reaction medium was then raised to 140 ° C. with a contact time of 2 hours, with stirring. The temperature of the reaction medium was then lowered to 70 ° C. and neutralized by addition of 30 ml of ethanol and the stirring was continued for one hour. After adding 780 ml of ethyl acetate, the mixture was filtered through celite. After evaporation of the ethyl acetate, 400 ml of cyclohexane were added to the reaction medium, and the mixture was washed twice with a mixture of H2O / EtOH (2 v / l) saturated with NaCl. The organic phase was then stripped with isododecane until a viscous liquid corresponding to the desired molecule at 50% solids content. For the purposes of the formulation this dry extract may possibly be modified by adding isododecane to the medium.

Compound 9: 2-hexyl decanol functionalized ureidopyrimidone 126.4 g of 2-hexyl decanol are heated at 60 ° C under reduced pressure for 2 hours to dry. After 2 hours, the oil is allowed to return to 20 ° C. under argon, then added slowly over 5 hours to a mixture of 116 g of isophorone diisocyanate and 55 mg of DBTL catalyst at 50 ° C. At the end of the addition, the temperature of the reaction mixture is brought to 110 ° C, then 90 ml of propylene carbonate, and 78.4 g of 6-methyl isocytosine, which leads to a white suspension and homogeneous. Stirring is maintained at 110 ° C for two hours and the disappearance of the isocyanate is monitored by infrared spectroscopy. The disappearance of the peak at 2250 cm -1 is observed. In parallel, the disappearance of the amine from isocytosine is followed by an amine assay. At the end of the reaction, 500 g of isododecane are added at 100 ° C., and a slightly turbid pale yellow solution is obtained. 300 ml of ethanol are added and the stirring is maintained for 2 hours. After filtration on celite, the reaction mixture is stripped with isododecane at 80 ° C. in order to remove the alcohol and the propylene carbonate. Finally, the desired product is obtained, transported in isododecane at 50% solids content. The product is characterized in particular by HPLC and GPC (confirmed structure).

Compound 10: 2-hexyl decanol functionalized ureidopyrimidone 173.1 g of 2-hexyl decanol were heated at 60 ° C under reduced pressure for 2 hours to dry. After 2 hours, the oil is allowed to return to 50 ° C under argon and then slowly added over a period of 5 hours to a mixture of 158.7 g of isophorone diisocyanate and 77 mg of DBTL catalyst at 50 ° C. At the end of the addition, the temperature of the reaction mixture is brought to 110 ° C., then 150 ml of propylene carbonate and 60.3 g of 5-hydroxyethyl-6-methyl isocytosine are added, which leads to a suspension. white and homogeneous. Stirring is maintained at 110 ° C for five hours and the disappearance of the isocyanate is monitored by infrared spectroscopy. The disappearance of the peak at 2250 cm -1 is observed At the end of the reaction, the temperature of the reaction medium is decreased to 100 ° C., and 780 g of isododecane are added, a slightly yellow turbid mixture is obtained. 1 ml of ethanol and the stirring is maintained for 2 hours After filtration on celite, the reaction mixture is stripped with isododecane at 80 ° C. in order to eliminate the alcohol and the propylene carbonate. The product is in particular characterized by HPLC and GPC (confirmed structure).

Compound 11: 2-decyi tetradecanol functionalized ureidopyrimidone 126 g of 2-decyl tetradecanol are heated at 100 ° C under reduced pressure for 4 hours to dry. After 2 hours, the oil is added, over 4 hours at 50 ° C. and under argon, to a mixture of 94.7 g of isophorone diisocyanate and catalyst DBTL (qs). A follow-up by isocyanate determination makes it possible to follow the reaction; at half equivalence, 126 g of propylene carbonate and 53.3 g of 6-methyl isocytosine are added. Stirring and heating are maintained at 100 ° C for 16 hours and the disappearance of the isocyanate is monitored by infrared spectroscopy. The disappearance of the peak at 2250 cm -1 is observed At the same time, the disappearance of the amine from isocytosine is followed by an amine measurement At the end of the reaction, the temperature is brought to 50.degree. 100 ml of ethanol are added and stirring is maintained for 5 h, after filtration on celite and stripping with isododecane, the desired product is obtained, carried in isododecane at 50% solids content. by GPC and HPLC coupled to a mass spectrum Compound 12: Jarcol 24 (J24) functionalized ureidopyrimidone

200 g of Jarcol 1-24 are cast at 50 ° C. in the IPDI (1.1 eq IPDI) in the presence of the catalyst, with control of the exotherm and under an inert atmosphere. The stirring is maintained after casting for 30 minutes at 50 ° C. 1.3 equivalents of methylisocytosine (MIC) are then added to the mixture, followed by the addition of 100 ml of propylene carbonate. The temperature of the reaction medium is then raised to 140 ° C., with a contact time of 1 h at 140 ° C. The disappearance of the isocyanate functions is monitored by infrared spectroscopy, then the temperature of the medium is lowered to 70 ° C. addition of 30 ml of ethanol and stirring for 1 hour. After addition of ethyl acetate, the mixture is filtered on filter paper. After evaporation of the ethyl acetate, cyclohexane is added, followed by 5 washes with a saturated water mixture of NaCl (2V / 1V ethanol). The organic phase is then dried over Na 2 SO 4, filtered and stripped with isododecane. A 50% solution of ex-dry oil product functionalized with a ureidopyrimidone is then obtained. Compound 13: Jarcol 20 (J20) Functionalized Ureidopyrimidone

180 g of Jarcol 1-20 are cast at 50 ° C. in the IPDI (1, IPDI qq) in the presence of the catalyst) with exothermic control and under an inert atmosphere. Stirring is maintained for 30 minutes at 50 ° C. 1.3 equivalents of MIC are added to the reaction medium followed by the addition of 100 ml of propylene carbonate. The temperature of the reaction medium is then raised to 140 ° C., and the stirring is maintained for 1 hour at 140 ° C. The reaction is monitored by infra-red spectroscopy, followed by the decrease of the characteristic peak of the isocyanate function. Decrease of the temperature to 70 ° C. and then add 30 ml of ethanol and stir for 1 h. After addition of ethyl acetate, the medium is filtered on filter paper. After evaporation of the ethyl acetate, cyclohexane is added, followed by 5 washes with a water mixture saturated with NaCl (2V / 1V). The organic phase is then dried over Na 2 SO 4, filtered and stripped with isododecane. A 50% solution of oil solids functionalized with a ureidopyrimidone is then obtained.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of supramolecular hydrocarbon compound A of between 5% and 95% by weight, preferably between 10% and 95% by weight, and more preferably between 20% and 90% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

FUNCTIONALIZED POLYSILOXANE,

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention therefore comprise a functionalized polysiloxane, that is to say carrying at least one linking group. The polysiloxane is capable of generating H (hydrogen) bonds.

The functionalized polysiloxanes according to the present invention are in particular described in the patent application WO2004 / 052963. The polysiloxanes present in the composition according to the invention preferably correspond to the following formula (IIa) or comprise at least one unit of the following formula (IIb): RRRR. Si-Q ~ SI-Q Jm [Si-Q-Si-Q3 R Q2 RRRI l * Q4SI1-Q n1 * R in which: the radicals R, which are identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon group 10 (in particular alkyl), linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C20, optionally aromatic, which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S and N;

the radicals Q1, Q2 and Q3, identical or different, monovalent, represent either a radical R as defined above; or a linking group capable of forming at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds, and most preferably 4 H bonds; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Q1 to Q3 is different from R in the formula (Ila); The divalent radical Q4 represents a linking group capable of forming at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds, and most preferably 4 H bonds;

N is an integer from 2 to 1000; m is an integer from 0 to 300; - c is an integer between 1 and 300; and wherein m, n and c are such that the number average molecular weight (Mn) of the functionalized polysiloxane (IIa) or (IIb) is between 500 and 100,000. In the above formulas, it is clear that the radicals Q1 to Q4 are connected via a silicon-carbon link to the polysiloxane backbone (or chain), said link being able to be direct or via a linker (binding agent) such as R1 as explained hereinafter.

Preferably, m, n and c are chosen in such a way that the number-average molecular weight of the functionalized polysiloxane (Ila) or (Ilb) is between 500 and 100,000, in particular between 1,000 and 50,000, or even between 2000 and 25 000, more preferably between 3000 and 15 000. Preferably, m is between 1 and 50, or even 2 and 20, more preferably 3 and 15. 40 Preferably, n is between 3 and 700, especially 5 and 400, even 10 and 200, even better 20 and 100. Preferably, c is between 2 and 150, more preferably between 3 and 80, more preferably between 4 and 20.

Preferably, the radical R may be a linear C 1 -C 20, in particular C 1 -C 12, alkyl group; a branched C 3 -C 20, in particular C 3 -C 12, alkyl group; C4-C20 cycloalkyl, especially C4-C10; C4-C20 aryl, especially C4-C10 aryl; C 5 -C 20 arylalkyl, especially C 5 -C 10 arylalkyl; these groups being optionally substituted by an NH 2 and / or OH function. The radical R may especially be chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl, octadecyl, cyclohexyl, phenyl, naphthyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl or xylyl radicals. Preferably, all the radicals R are identical; preferentially, R is a methyl radical.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "linking group" means any group comprising donor groups or acceptors of H bonds and capable of establishing at least three H bonds, preferably at least four H bonds, preferably four H bonds, with a partner junction group, identical or not. These linking groups may be lateral to the polymeric backbone (in lateral branching), and / or carried by the ends of the polymeric backbone, and / or in the chain forming the polymeric backbone. They can be randomly or controlled. The functionalized junction groups capable of forming at least 3 H bonds may comprise at least 3 functional groups, preferably at least 4, chosen from: / C = O / C = S / P = O / C = NH / S = O -CECH -SH -OH C = N- -CEN -NH2 / -NH -iO- -iS- -i -F / -NH2

the functional acceptor groups of H: / C = OC = S / C = N- / S = O -CEN-O- -S- -CI -F bonds. Preferably, the linking groups can establish 4 H bonds with one identical (or autocomplementary) partner group among which 2 donor (for example NH) and 2 acceptor (for example CO and -C = N-) bonds.

Preferably, the linking groups Q1 to Q4 comprise at least one monovalent unit of formula (Ia) and / or at least one divalent unit of formula (Ib): These functional groups can be classified into two categories: functional groups donors of bonds H: 1 C = NH -NH -CECH -SH -OH R2 R4NH O ONNN IIHH * - R3NH O ON ~ N ^ N 'IIHH R1 - (la) (Ib) in which: - R1 and R3, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear or branched C1-C32 alkyl group, (ii) a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group and (iii) a C4-C16 aryl group; said groups optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or said groups being optionally substituted by an ester, amide or a C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical function; or a mixture of these groups; - R2 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, C 1 -C 32 hydrocarbon (alkyl) radical, which may be include one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P.

Preferably, the linking group comprises at least one monovalent unit of formula (Ia).

In particular, the radical R 1 may especially be: a linear or branched C2-C12 divalent alkylene group, especially a 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene or 1,6- ( 2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4- (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene), 1,6- (6-methylheptylene), 1,5- trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene). a C 4 -C 12 divalent cycloalkylene or arylene group, chosen especially from the following radicals-isophorone, tolylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene, 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène; 4,4-bisphénylèneméthylène; or of structure: Preferably R 1 is-isophorone, - (CH 2) 6- or 4,4'-methylene bis-cyclohexylene.

In particular, the radicals R 2 or R 4, independently of one another, can be H or else: a C 1 -C 32, in particular C 1 -C 16 or even C 1 -C 10 alkyl group; A C4-C12 cycloalkyl group; a C4-C12 aryl group; an aryl (C4-C12) C1-C16 alkyl group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group; By -isophorone means the divalent radical of structure: CH 3 - an arylalkoxy group, in particular a (C 1 -C 4) aryl alkoxy group; a C4-C12 heterocycle or a combination of these radicals, which may optionally be substituted by an amino, ester and / or hydroxyl function.

Preferably, R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9). Preferably, R4 = H.

Preferably, R3 represents a divalent radical -R'3-0-C (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a linear or branched C1-C32 alkyl group or a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group or a C4-C16 aryl group; or their mixture. In particular, R '3 and R' 4 may represent methylene, 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene, 1,6- (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4 (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene); 1,6- (6-méthylheptylène); 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene); 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-bisphénylèneméthylène; 1,2-tolylene, 1,4-tolylene, 2,4-tolylene, 2,6-tolylene; 1,5-naphthylene; tetramethylxylylene; isophorone. In particular, R'3 can represent a C1-C4 alkylene, especially 1,2-ethylene. Preferably, R'4 may represent the divalent radical derived from isophorone.

In particular, R 3 can be of the following structure: ## STR1 ## In formula (Ia), it is particularly possible to have: R 1 = -isophorone, R 2 = methyl and R 4 = H, which leads to in the unit of formula: - R1 = - (CH2) 6-, R2 = methyl and R4 = H, which leads to the unit of formula: HH 1 1 NH rO HH 1 1 ON \ / N \ / N 30 35 - R1 = - (CH2) 6-, R2 = isopropyl and R4 = H, which leads to the unit of formula:

H H 1 1 O ~ N ~ N \ / N

## STR5 ## wherein R 2 = methyl and R 4 = H, which leads to the unit of formula: ## STR2 ##

CH3

In a particularly preferred embodiment, in formula (Ib), R 1 represents the radical - isophorone -, R 2 = methyl and R 3 = - (CH 2) 2OOO-NH-isophorone, which leads to the divalent unit of formula: embedded image The functionalized polysiloxanes according to the present invention may be derived from the reaction, in particular from the polycondensation, of at least a polysiloxane carrying at least one reactive functional group, for example OH or NH 2, with at least one linking group carrying at least one reactive functional group capable of reacting with the reactive function (s) of the polysiloxane.

Preferably, the polysiloxane bearing at least one reactive functional group, capable of forming all or part of the polymer backbone of the functionalized polysiloxane according to the invention, is of formula HX-P-X'H in which: XH and X'H are reactive groups, with X and X ', the same or different, selected from O, SH, NH or NRa, Ra representing a C1-C6 alkyl group; preferably, X and / or X 'denote O; preferentially, X and X 'denote O; P represents a homo- or copolymer of polysiloxane type, preferably a polydimethylsiloxane, linear or cyclic.

Said polysiloxane may in particular carry at least two reactive functions, which may be at the end of chains. We are talking about telechelic polymers. Said reactive functions may be attached to the polysiloxane via linkers, preferably linear or branched C1-C4 alkylene groups, or directly by a single bond. As reactive functions, there may be mentioned the OH, NH 2, NHR, SH or NCO functions. The reactive functions may also be present on the polymer skeleton.

As polysiloxanes bearing reactive functional groups, mention may notably be made of: telechelic polysiloxanes (end-of-chain reactive functions), such as those bearing hydride functional groups, and in particular those sold by Gelest under the names DMS-H21, DMS-D H25 and DMS-H31; those bearing amino functions and in particular those sold by Gelest under the names DMS-Al2, DMS-A15, DMS-A21 and DMS-A32, or by Shin-Etsu under the names X-22-161B or KF-8012; those bearing OH functions and in particular those sold by Shin-Etsu under the names KF-6001, KF-6002, KF-6003 and X-22-176-DX, or by Goldschmidt under the names TEGO-IS4181 and TEGO-IS4480P. polysiloxanes with pendant reactive functions, such as those bearing hydride functional groups, and in particular those sold by Gelest under the names HMS-064, HMS-071, HES-992 and HAM-303; those bearing amino functions and in particular those sold by Gelest under the names AMS-152 and AMS-162 or by Shin-Etsu under the names KF-864 or KF-868; those bearing OH functions and in particular the functionalized dimethicone copolyols OH; or aminomethicones; polysiloxanes having at least one reactive functional group at the end of the chain and at least one pendant reactive function, such as those carrying a hydride functional group, sold by Gelest under the names HDP-111 or HPM-502; those carrying an amino and alkoxy function, such as KF857 or KF-862 from Shin-Etsu.

In order to form the functionalized polysiloxane according to the invention, it is possible to use a junction group Q carrying at least one reactive functional group, in particular isocyanate or imidazole, capable of reacting with the reactive functional groups, in particular OH and / or NH 2 (NH 2 only for imidazole), polysiloxane, to form a covalent bond, especially urethane type, between said polysiloxane and said joining group.

As mentioned above, the linking groups can be linked to the polysiloxane backbone by means of a linker (linking agent), which is preferably chosen from the following divalent groups: phenylene; 1,4-nitrophenyl; 1,2-ethylene; 1,6-hexylene; 1,4-butylene; 1,6- (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene); 1,4- (4-methylpentylene); 1,5- (5-methylhexylene); 1,6- (6-méthylheptylène); 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene); 1,7- (3,7-diméthyloctylène); -isophorone-; 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene; tolylene; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4-biphénylèneméthylène; and preferably: - isophorone-; - (CH2) 2-; - (CH2) 6-; -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (CH3) 2-CH2-CH2; 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene.

Junction groups carrying a single isocyanate function may be of formula: ## STR2 ## in which R 1 and R 2 are as defined above; and in particular: - R1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH2) 6-, -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (CH3) 2 -CH2-CH2, 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3 phenylene; and / or - R2 represents H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27i C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9).

Preferably, the Isocyanate-functional junction groups may be chosen from the following groups: ## STR2 ## The junction groups carrying two isocyanate functional groups may have the formula: ## STR2 ## wherein R1, R2 and R3 are as defined above, and in particular: - R1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH2) 2-, - (CH2) 6-, -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (CH3) 2-CH 2 -CH 2, 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; and / or R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9); and / or - R3 represents a divalent radical -R'3-OC (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a linear alkyl group or branched C1-C30 or a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group or a C4-C12 aryl group; or their mixtures; and in particular R'3 represents a C1-C4 alkylene, especially 1,2-ethylene and R'4 represents the divalent radical derived from isophorone. A particularly preferred joining group is that of the formula: ## STR2 ##

Among the junction groups bearing an imidazole group, mention may be made of the following compound: CH 3

Preferably, the polysiloxanes having a linking group have a number-average molecular mass (Mn) of between 500 and 100,000, especially between 1,000 and 50,000, and even between 2,000 and 25,000, better between 3,000 and 15,000.

Preferably, the junction group-carrying polysiloxanes according to the invention have the following formula: ## STR2 ## In this formula, the groups Terminals have not been reported as statistical and may be process dependent. Preferably, in this formula, a is between 2 and 1000, more preferably 3 and 700, especially 5 and 400, or even 10 and 200, still more preferably 20 and 100; preferably, b is between 1 and 300, more preferably 2 and 150, more preferably between 3 and 80, more preferably between 4 and 20.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the linking groups can be attached to the polysiloxane backbone via functionalization of the linking group by an isocyanate or imidazole. According to another embodiment, it is possible to carry out the reverse reaction by prefunctionalizing the polysiloxane with a diisocyanate. The polysiloxane polymer having a linking group, alone or in a mixture, may be present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a proportion of 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 40% by weight. preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, or even 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

COLORING MATERIALS The composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff. Preferably, the dyestuff is present in a content of at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The coloring material may be chosen from pulverulent dyestuffs (in particular pigments and pearlescent agents) and water-soluble or liposoluble dyestuffs. By pigments within the meaning of the invention is meant white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting makeup film. The pigments also include nacres or pearlescent pigments.

The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, and in particular from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and Chromium hydrate. According to one embodiment, titanium oxides and iron oxides are more particularly considered in the invention. According to one embodiment, a pigment that is suitable for the invention may in particular be based on titanium dioxide and iron oxide.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by the company CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30. A pigment suitable for the invention may comprise a structure which may be, for example, of type silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrroles (DPP). ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537. By "nacres" or "pearlescent pigments", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL.

The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of pearlescent agents that can be used in the context of the present invention, it is possible, in particular, to mention gold-colored pearlescent agents, in particular sold by Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica). , 222C Gold (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with gold glare, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with gold reflection, sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue pearls, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with silvery reflection, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. According to an alternative embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise, as pigments, a pigment chosen from titanium dioxide, pigments based on titanium dioxide and iron oxide, or pigments based on dioxide. titanium, such as sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica, natural mica coated with titanium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff that is distinct from the pigments as defined above. Such a coloring material may be chosen from organic or inorganic, liposoluble or water-soluble dyestuffs, materials with specific optical effect and mixtures thereof. A cosmetic composition according to the invention may thus also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, p-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5 and yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and methylene blue. A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of variability of color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and especially interferential fibers. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: the particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, the particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomatiere or multimaterial, covered at least partially by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and - mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by SIBERLINE and METALURE® by ECKART.

Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the trade names ROTOSAFE 700 ECKART company, the aluminum-robé silica particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER ECKART company and the metal alloy particles, such as bronze powder (al-binding copper and zinc) coated with silica marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected from, for example, interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by Dupont. FROM NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL 35 by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / micaoxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure marketed under the trademark Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE 45 COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe.sub.2 O.sub.3 / SiO.sub.2 / Al.sub.2 / SiO.sub.2 / Fe.sub.2 O.sub.3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO.sub.2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm. Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by CHENIX, as well as those sold under the name HELICONE® HC by WACKER. The dyestuffs, in particular the pigments treated with a hydrophobic agent, may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight. PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE ENVIRONMENT

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin and / or the lips, such as oils or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted (tolerance, toxicology and acceptable touch) to the nature of the carrier on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

SILICONE OILS

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one silicone oil.

By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The silicone oils that can be used according to the invention can be volatile and / or nonvolatile. Thus a composition according to the invention may contain a volatile and nonvolatile silicone oil mixture.

In particular, the volatile or nonvolatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention preferably have a viscosity at 25 ° C. of less than 800,000 cSt, preferably less than or equal to 600,000 cSt, preferably less than or equal to 500,000 cSt. The viscosity of these silicone oils can be measured according to ASTM D-445.

By "volatile" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 300 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0, 1 to 10 mmHg). By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

The nonvolatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may especially be chosen from silicone oils having in particular a viscosity at 25 ° C. of greater than or equal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 × 10 -6 m 2 / s). and preferably less than 800,000 cSt, preferably between 50 and 600,000 cSt, preferably between 100 and 500,000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone can be measured according to ASTM D-445.

Among these silicone oils, two types of oils can be distinguished depending on whether or not they are phenylated.

According to a first embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is a non-phenylated oil. As non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils, mention may be made of: non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMSs comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, PDMSs comprising aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a fluorinated group such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, and substituted polyalkylmethylsiloxanes; by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-phenylated linear silicone oil. As representative of these non-volatile linear silicone oils, mention may be made of poly-dimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; as well as silicones modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

The non-phenylated linear silicone oil may in particular be chosen from the silicones of formula (I): ## STR2 ## in which: R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, a radical alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical, X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, where n and p are integers selected so as to have a fluid compound, in particular having a viscosity at 25 ° C of between 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 x 10-6 m2 / s)) and 800,000 cSt.

As non-volatile silicone oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those for which the substituents R 1, R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 500,000 cst, as that sold. under the name 6E30 by the company General Electric, that sold under the name AK 500000 by Waker, the one sold under the name Mirasil DM 500,000 by Bluestar and that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 cst by Dow Horning. the substituents R 1, R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cst, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning and that sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60,000 by the company Wacker. the substituents R 1, R 6 and X represent a methyl group, p and n are such that the viscosity is 350 cst, such as that sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the company Dow Corning. the substituents R 1 to R 6 represent a methyl group, the X group represents a hydroxyl group, n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cst, such as that sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by the company Momentive.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-phenylated linear silicone oil.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil.

As a representative of these phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of: phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR1 ## in which the R groups independently of one another represent a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl. Preferably in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR2 ##

wherein the R groups independently represent methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R is phenyl. Preferably in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described above can be used. For example, mixtures of organopolysiloxane triphenyl, tetra- or penta-phenyl. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl 1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name : trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. Phenylated silicone oils corresponding to the following formula: Me Me Me (IV) in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000, and X represents 5 -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) (Ph). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (V): ## STR2 ##

In which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group -OSiMe3 and y is 0 or varies between 1 and 1000, z varies between 1 and 1000, so that the compound ( V) 10 is a non-volatile oil. According to a first embodiment, y varies between 1 and 1000. It is possible to use, for example, trimethyl Siloxyphenyl Dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference BELSIL PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker. According to a second embodiment y is equal to 0. It is possible to use for example PHENYL TRIMETHYLSILOXY TRISILOXANE, sold in particular under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VI), and their mixtures: n (VI) in which: R, to Rio, independently of one another, are linear or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals; or branched, in C 1 -C 30, m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum 'm + n + q' is different Preferably, the sum 'm + n + q' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + p + q' is between 1 and 900, more preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0. The phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (VII), and their mixtures: ## STR1 ## R1 m R1 H3C-Si-O R2 Si R4 R3 in which: R1 to R6, independently of one another, are cyclic or branched, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals of C 1 -C 30, - m, n and p are, independant 1 to 100. Preferably, R1 to R6, independently of one another, represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical. , linear or branched, C1-C30, especially C1-C12, and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.

In particular, R1 to R6 may be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical. Preferably, one can have m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1, in the formula (VII). the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and mixtures thereof: ## STR1 ## in which: R is a C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical; aryl radical or aralkyl radical, - n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and - m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, provided that the sum n + m varies from 1 to 100. In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and R1 to R10 previously defined, may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, especially C 2 -C 20, in particular C 3 -C 16 and more particularly C 4 -C 10 alkyl radical, or a C6-C14 mono- or polycyclic aryl radical, especially C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl radicals are as defined above. Preferably, R of the formula (VIII) and R1 to R10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. According to one embodiment, it is possible to use a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably having a viscosity of between between 5 and 1000 mm2 / s (ie 5 to 1000 cSt). As phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII), phenyltrimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), Silbione 70663V30 from Rhône Poulenc (28 cSt), or diphenyldimethicones such as oils can be used in particular. Belsil, including Belsil PDM1000 (1000cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20cSt) from Wacker. Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C. the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula and their mixtures: ## STR2 ## in which: R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl radical, X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a radical vinyl, n and p being selected so as to impart to the oil a molecular weight of less than 200,000 g / mol, preferably less than 150,000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol. the phenyl silicones are more particularly chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, the phenyl silicones are more chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil according to the invention ranges from 500 to 10,000 g / mol.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from: i) the phenyl silicone oils, in particular of formula (II) or (VII) below: Si SiO SiO Si Si (CH3) 3 Ri H3C Si -O R2 Wherein R 1 to R 6, independently of one another, are cyclic or branched, linear or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radicals, m, n and p are, independently of one another, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m' is between 1 and 100; in which the groups R represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, at least one of the groups R being a phenyl group. ii) linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), iii) polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms.

As the phenyl silicone oil, an oil of formula (V) or of formula (II) (preferably of formula (III) is preferably used.

By way of example of preferred nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of silicone oils such as: phenyl silicones (also called phenylated silicone oil) such as Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (MW = 9000 g / mol (see formula (V) above), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane (such as that sold under the name Dow Coming PH-1555 HR1 cosmetic fluid by Dow Coming) (cf for-mule (III) above), non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, group-25 ments each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms e; - and their mixtures.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 60% by weight, or even from 1 to 50%, or even from 2% to 40% by weight, by total weight of silicone oil (s) ), and in particular of silicone oil (s) phenylated (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

It should be noted that among the above-mentioned silicone oils, the phenyl silicone oils are particularly advantageous. These make it possible in particular to impart a good level of gloss to the deposit on the skin or the lips made with the composition according to the invention, without generating any tack.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile silicone oil as a silicone oil. The volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils having in particular a viscosity of <8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s). In addition, the volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention can be chosen preferably from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. and lower or equal to 95 ° C, and preferably less than 80 ° C.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of: volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones having, awakening, alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, more particularly the volatile silicone oils are non-cyclic and in particular are chosen from: - non-cyclic linear silicones of formula (I): R3SiO- (R2SiO), - SiR3 (I)

in which R, identical or different, denotes: a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms or by one or more hydroxyl groups, or a hydroxyl group, one of the R radicals possibly being a phenyl group, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, preferably ranging from 2 to 6, and better still ranging from 3 to 5; silicone compound of formula (I) containing at most 15 carbon atoms. The branched silicones of formula (II) or (III) below:

R3SiO - [(R3SiO) RSiO] - (R2SiO) x-SiR3 (II)

[R 3 SiO] 4 Si (III) in which R, identical or different, denotes: a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms or by one or more a plurality of hydroxyl groups, or a hydroxyl group, one of the R radicals may be a phenyl group, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, the silicone compound of formula (II) or (III) containing at most 15 carbon atoms. Preferably, for the compounds of formulas (I), (II), (III), the ratio between the number of carbon atoms and the number of silicon atoms is between 2.25 and 4.33. The silicones of formulas (I) to (III) may be prepared according to the known processes for the synthesis of silicone compounds. Among the silicones of formula (I), mention may be made of: the following disiloxanes: hexamethyldisiloxane (surface tension = 15.9 mN / m), in particular sold under the name DC 200 Fluid 0. 65 cst by the company Dow Corning 1,3-di-tert-butyl-1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; 1,3-dipropyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; heptyl pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,3-trimethyl disiloxane; hexaethyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (2-methylpropyl) disiloxane; pentamethyl octyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-trimethyl 3,3,3-tris (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1-butyl 3-ethyl-1,1,3-trimethyl-3-propyl disiloxane; pentamethyl pentyl disiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-3- (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (1-methylpropyl) disiloxane; 1,1,3-triethyl-1,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; (3,3-dimethylbutyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; (3-methylbutyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; (3-methylpentyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3-dimethyl-3-propyl disiloxane; 1- (1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,3,3,3-pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-trimethyl 3,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; 1,3-dimethyl-1,1,3,3-tetrakis (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1-dibutyl 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetramethyl 3,3-bis (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetramethyl 3,3-dipropyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (3-methylbutyl) disiloxane; butyl pentamethyl disiloxane; pentaethyl methyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-dipentyl disiloxane; 1,3-dimethyl-1,1,3,3-tetrapropyl disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetraethyl 3,3-dimethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; 1,3-dibutyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane and hexyl pentamethyl disiloxane. the following trisiloxanes: octamethyltrisiloxane (surface tension = 17.4 55 mN / m), sold in particular under the name DC 200 FLUID 1 cst by the company Dow Corning 3-pentyl 1,1,1,3,5,5 5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1-hexyl-1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5-heptamethyl-5-octyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-octyl trisiloxane, especially sold under the name "Silsoft 034" by the company OSI; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-hexyltrisiloxane (surface tension = 20.5 mN / m), especially sold under the name "DC 2-1731" by the company DOW CORNING; 1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl 1,5-dipropyl trisiloxane; 3- (1-ethylbutyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (1-methylpentyl) trisiloxane; 1,5-diethyl-1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (1-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 3- (1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3,3-bis (1-methylethyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl 1,5-bis (1-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 1,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 3- (3,3-dimethylbutyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (3-methylbutyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (3-methylpentyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (2-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-propyl trisiloxane; 3-isohexyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,3,5-triethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentamethyltrisiloxane; 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 3-tert-pentyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3,3-dipropyl trisiloxane; 3,3-diethyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 1,5-dibutyl 1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexaethyl-3,3-dimethyltrisiloxane; 3,3-dibutyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 3-heptyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and 1-ethyl-1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane. the following tetrasiloxanes: decamethyltetrasiloxane (surface tension = 18 mN / m), sold in particular under the name DC 200 FLUID 1.5 is by the company Dow Corning; 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7-octamethyl 1,7-dipropyl tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl 5- (1-methylethyl) tetrasiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl tetrasiloxane; 3,5-diethyl-1,1,1,3,5,7,7,7-octamethyl tetrasiloxane; 1,3,5,7-tetraethyl-1,1,3,5,7,7-hexamethyltetrasiloxane; 3,3,5,5-tetraethyl 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyltetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7-nonamethyl 7-phenyltetrasiloxane; 3,3-diethyl 1,1,1,5,5,7,7,7-octamethyl tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl-5-phenyltetrasiloxane; d) - the following pentasiloxanes: dodecamethylpentasiloxane (surface tension = 18.7 mN / m), sold especially under the name DC 200 FLUID 2 is by the company Dow Corning; 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9-decamethyl-1,9-dipropyl pentasiloxane; 3,3,5,5,7,7-hexaethyl-1,1,1,9,9,9-hexamethylpentasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,9,9,9-undecamethyl 5-phenyl pentasiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-undecamethylpentasiloxane; 3,3-diethyl-1,1,1,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-decamethylpentasiloxane; 1,3,5,7,9-pentaethyl 1,1,3,5,7,9,9-heptamethylpentasiloxane; 3,5,7-triethyl 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,9,9-nonamethyl pentasiloxane and 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,5,5,7,7,9 , 9,9-nonamethylpentasiloxane. the following hexasiloxanes: 1-butyl-1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,11,11,11-tridecamethyl hexasiloxane; 3,5,7,9-tetraethyl 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,11,11,11-decamethyl hexasiloxane and tetradecamethyl hexasiloxane. hexadecamethyl heptasiloxane. Octadecamethyl octasiloxane. eicosomethylnonasiloxane Among the silicones of formula (II), mention may be made of: the following tetrasiloxanes: [3,3,3-trimethyl] -1-bis [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] ethyl; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3- (2-methylpropyl) 3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 3- (1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 3-butyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-propyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 3-ethyl-1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,5,5,5-tetramethyl-3- (trimethylsiloxy) trisiloxane; 3-methyl-1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3- [trimethylsilyl] oxy] trisiloxane; 3 - [(dimethylphenylsilyl) oxy] 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3- (2-methylpentyl) 3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3- (4-methylpentyl) -3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 3-hexyl-1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane and 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane. the following pentasiloxanes: 1,1,1,3,5,5,7,7,7 nonamethyl 3 (trimethylsiloxy) tetrasiloxane and 1,1,1,3,3,7,7,7-octamethyl 5- phenyl 5 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] tetrasiloxane. the following heptasiloxanes: 1,1,1,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,11,11,11-tridecamethyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] hexasiloxane. Among the silicones of formula (III), mention may be made of: 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3,3-bis (trimethylsiloxy) trisiloxane. It is also possible to use other volatile silicone oils chosen from: the following tetrasiloxanes: 2,2,8,8-tetramethyl-5 [(pentamethyldisiloxanyl) methyl] -3,7-dioxa-2,8-disilanonane; 2,2,5,8,8-pentamethyl-5 - [(trimethylsilyl) methoxy] 4,6-dioxa-2,5,8-trisilanonane; 1,3-dimethyl-1,3-bis [(trimethylsilyl) methyl] 1,3-disiloxanediol; 3-ethyl-1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3- [3- (trimethylsiloxy) propyl] trisiloxane and 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-phenyl-3- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane (Dow 556 Fluid). the following pentasiloxanes: 2,2,7,7,9,9,11,11,16,16-decamethyl-3,8,10,15-tetraoxa-2,7,9,11,16-pentasilaheptadecane and the tetrakis [(trimethylsilyl) methyl] silicic acid ester. the following hexasiloxanes: 3,5-diethyl-1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyl-3,5-bis [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] tetrasiloxane and 1,1,1,3,5,7, 7,7-octamethyl 3,5-bis [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] tetrasiloxane. heptasiloxane: 1,1,1,3,7,7,7-heptamethyl-3,5,5-tris [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] tetrasiloxane. the following octasiloxanes: 1,1,1,3,5,5,9,9,9-nonamethyl-3,7,7-tris [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] pentasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,9,9-nonamethyl-3,5,7-tris [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] pentasiloxane and 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyl 3,3,5,5-tetrakis [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] tetrasiloxane.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may more particularly be made of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold especially under the name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane sold especially under the name DC-246 by Dow Corning, and octamethyltrisiloxane sold in particular. under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 cst by Dow Corning and decamethyltetrasiloxane sold especially under the name DC-200 Fluid 1.5 cst by Dow Corning and DC-200 Fluid 5 cst marketed by the company Dow Corning , octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltri-siloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention advantageously contains from 1 to 80%, by weight, in particular from 5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 10 to 60% by total weight of silicone oil, preferably non-volatile. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains from 20 to 50% by total weight of silicone oil, preferably non-volatile, relative to the total weight of the composition.

ADDITIONAL OIL:

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of additional oil, different from said silicone oil.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional oil different from said silicone oil.

Additional non-volatile oil: According to a first embodiment, the additional oil is a non-volatile oil that is different from the silicone oil.

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). It is also possible to define a non-volatile oil as having an evaporation rate such that under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm 2.

Preferably, the additional oil is a hydrocarbon oil. Hydrocarbon apolar oils According to a first embodiment, the oil present in the composition according to the invention is an apolar hydrocarbon oil. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C., Sa, is equal to 0 (J / cm 3)%.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. HANSEN: "The three-dimensional-na) solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - SD characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - 8, characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - Sh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); and - Sa is determined by the equation: Sa = (8.2 + Sh2) i. The parameters 8 ,, 8h, SD and Sa are expressed in (J / cm3)%. By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil is free of oxygen atom.

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, petroleum jelly, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol) INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the AMOCO company (MW = 1340 g / mol), the Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol) - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14, - polydec nes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company 5 Mobil Chemicals, - and mixtures thereof.

Polar oils: According to a second preferred embodiment, said non-volatile oil is a polar, hydrocarbon-based, silicone or fluorinated oil. By silicone oil is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. By fluorinated oil is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. According to a first preferred embodiment, said polar nonvolatile oil is a hydrocarbon oil. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C., Sa, is other than 0 (J / cm 3)%.

These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom. or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. In particular, the non-volatile hydrocarbonaceous polar oil may be chosen from the following list of oils, and their mixtures: vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil; the hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR 'in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononanoate, isononyl, oleyl erucate or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate; isopropyl myristate. the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and , 4-butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or the copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, 40 fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; oils of plant origin such as sesame oil (820.6 g / mol), 45-fatty acids having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid; di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and non-volatile oils of high molecular weight, for example between 50 650 to 10000 g / mol, for example: i) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON V-216 marketed or manufactured by ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol), - (ii) esters such as: a) linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW) = 697.05 g / mol), b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g / mol), c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g). mol), d) esters of fatty alcohol or of C24-C28 branched fatty acids such as those described in application EP-AO 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol ), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697.05g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891.51 g / mol), tri-decyl-2 tetradecane glyceryl noate (MW = 1143.98 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g / mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g / mol) or tetra decyl Pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g / mol), e) diol dimer and mono- or dicarboxylic acid esters and polyesters, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters and dimer diols and dimer of dicarboxylic acid, there may be mentioned the esters of dilinoleic diacids and dimers dilinoleic diols sold by the company Nippon FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. - and their mixtures.

The esters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic acid can be obtained from monocarboxylic acid comprising from 4 to 34 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated. By way of illustration of an example of a monocarboxylic acid which is suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of fatty acids.

The diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid esters may be obtained from a di-di-dicarboxylic acid derivative derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, especially from C8 to C34, in particular from C12 to C22, in particular from C16 to C20, and more particularly C18. According to one particular variant, it is more particularly the dimer of carboxylic acid from which also the diol dimer to be esterified is derived. The dimer diol and carboxylic acid esters may be obtained from a di-mother diol produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a dicarboxylic acid dimer as described above, for example hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid. By way of illustration of the dimer diol esters, there may be mentioned the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil chosen from: According to another embodiment, said additional nonvolatile polar oil is a fluorinated oil.

Non-volatile fluorinated oil According to a second embodiment, the second non-volatile oil is a fluorinated oil. By "fluorinated oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The fluorinated oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752 and perfluorinated compounds. According to the invention, the term "perfluorinated compounds" means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been substituted with fluorine atoms. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluorinated oils. By way of example of perfluorinated oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluoro-5-γ-rodecalines and perfluoperhydrophenanthrenes. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil chosen from perfluoperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular Fiflow products. ® marketed by Créations Couleurs. In particular, it is possible to use the fluorinated oil whose INCI name is perfluoperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference FIFLOW 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention advantageously contains from 1 to 40%, by weight, in particular from 3 to 30% by weight, of additional nonvolatile oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL VOLATILE SOLVENT

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one additional volatile solvent. This may be an oil or a solvent miscible or partially miscible with water at 25 ° C, or their mixture.

Volatile Solvent: Preferably, the composition comprises as volatile solvent at least alcohol volatile, preferably a linear or branched lower monoalcohol having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one volatile alcohol chosen from ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. In particular, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises ethanol.

Preferably, said volatile alcohol is present in the composition in a content of between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Volatile oil: By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or nonaqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa ( 10-3 at 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 at 10 mmHg).

These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. In particular, volatile oils that may be mentioned include volatile hydrocarbon oils, and especially non-polar volatile hydrocarbon oils (the flash point is measured in particular according to ISO 3679), such as hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. carbon, and especially: C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C14 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isohexadecane, isodecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or permetyls; linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14); ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of WO2008 / 155059 of the Company Cognis, and their mixtures. Preferably, the volatile solvent is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 14 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, and in particular volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, which may also be mentioned include ketones which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone and acetone; short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate; ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alcohols and in particular linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one non-silicone volatile additional oil. Preferably, said additional oil is a hydrocarbon volatile oil. Preferably it is isododecane.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains from 1 to 50%, by weight, in particular from 3 to 40% by weight, of additional volatile oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SOLID BODY

Advantageously, particularly when the composition is in solid form, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes and pasty fatty substances.

Waxes For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. C up to 120 ° C. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a diffrential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

Preferably, the measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature measurement ranging from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate. at 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible 45 and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TATX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed is 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorinated and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point greater than 25 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a wax content of between 1 and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. more preferably 5 to 20% and more preferably 7 to 15% by weight.

Apolar waxes:

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar wax" is intended to mean a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. as defined below, Sa is equal to 0 (J / cm 3)%. The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

In particular, apolar wax means a wax which consists solely of apolar wax and not a mixture which also includes other types of waxes which are not apolar waxes.

Illustrative of apolar waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based apolar wax chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes. As polyethylene wax, mention may be made PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE and PERFORMALENE 400 POLYETHYLENE marketed by New Phase Technologies. As ozokerite mention may be made of OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P. As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of MULTIWAX W 445® sold by the company SONNEBORN and MICROWAX HW® and BASE WAX 30540® marketed by PARAMELT. Suitable microwaxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax include polyethylene microwires such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company. MICRO POWDERS.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar wax, preferably chosen from microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene waxes and ozokerite waxes.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an apolar wax content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular it may contain from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 15%.

Polar wax

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polar wax.

By "polar" wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C Sa is different from 0 (J / cm3)%. In particular, "polar" wax means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an atom. oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. HANSEN: "The three-dimensional-na) solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - SD characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - 8, characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - Sh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); - Sa is determined by the equation: Sa = (8.2 + Sh2) i The parameters 8 ,, 8h, SD and Sa are expressed in (J / cm3)%.

The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone. By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax. As hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred. By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. By "wax alcohol" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax:

ester waxes such as those chosen from:

i) waxes of formula RICOOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and whose Melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C. In particular, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate, may be used as ester wax. Such waxes are in particular sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "Kester KSH WAX" by the company Koster Keunen. It is also possible to use a montanate (octacosanoate) of glycol and butylene glycol, such as the wax LICOWAX KPS FLAKES (INCI name: glycol montanate) marketed by the company Clariant.

ii) di- (trimethylol-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Hetenere,

Iii) diester waxes of a carboxylic acid diacid of the general formula R 3 - (- OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5), wherein R 3 and R 5 are the same or different, preferably identical, and represent a C 4 -C 4 alkyl group; C30 (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) linear branched which may or may not contain 1 or more unsaturations, and preferably linear and unsaturated,

iv) We may also mention the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having C8-C32 linear or branched fatty chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190 and the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol such as that sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" or else ;

(vi) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax; sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax.

According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. By "alcoholic wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

As alcohol wax, there may be mentioned, for example, the Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol. According to a second embodiment, the polar wax may be silicone-like silicone beeswax, or an alkyl dimethicone such as C30-45 alkyl dimethicone sold under the reference SF1642 by Momentive Performance Materials.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar wax, preferably a hydrocarbon wax, and a polar wax, preferably a silicone wax.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a polar wax content ranging from 1 to 40% by weight of wax relative to the total weight of the composition and better still from 1 to 30% by weight, in particular 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Pasty fatty substance The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty fatty substance.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" (also referred to as pasty fatty substance) is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and having at the temperature of 23 ° C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C. preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed. in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments .

The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of paste or wax (as the case may be) placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the rate of heating of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from - 20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The melting enthalpy of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from - lanolin and its derivatives - polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (5 EO) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO) (CTFA name: PPG- Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more especially PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by Vevy, a mixture in which the constituents are found in a 46/46/8 weight ratio: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil. the polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, the non-polymeric fluorinated compounds or the vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers and copolymers of olefins; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of (meth) ) alkyl acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group - homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, - vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymers (INCI name VP / eicosene copolymer) ), for example sold by ISP under the trade name Ganex V220F®, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-diols. C100, preferably C2-050, esters, and / or mixtures thereof. The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. Among the liposoluble polyethers, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers are particularly preferred with C 6 -C 30 long chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. oxide and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxide in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers ( 22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the tradename Softisan 649 by the company Sasol - arachidyl propionate marketed under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, 40 - triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, - pentaerythritol esters, - non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C 2 -C 50 diol or polyol, the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of a hy-acid ester Aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably reamed. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is chosen from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) the partial or total esters of C2 to C16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono or poly carboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof. the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acidic radicals or alcohols, especially dimer dilinoleate esters, such esters may especially be chosen from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinyl-dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl-dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) , and their mixtures. the hydrogenated rosinate esters, such as the dilinoleyl dimers of hydrogenated rosinate (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine Chemical), and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the pasty compound (s) preferably represents 0.1 to 80%, better still 0.5 to 60%, better still 1 to 30% and better still 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Filmoqene Polymer The composition may comprise, in addition to the copolymer described above, an additional polymer such as a film-forming polymer. According to the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, in particular on keratin materials. Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. As film-forming polymer, there may be mentioned in particular acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers such as nitrocellulose. The polymer may be associated with one or more auxiliary film-forming agents. Such a film-forming agent may be chosen from all the compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular be chosen from plasticizers and coalescing agents.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one gelling agent. The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS.

It is also possible to mention the optionally hydrophobic fumed silica surface with a particle size of less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophilic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane. or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-OSIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of to establish hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

LOADS: The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" means solid particles of all forms, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition, even at temperatures up to the melting point of all the bodies. fat of the composition. Generally, the fillers used according to the invention are colorless or white, ie non-pigmentary, that is to say they are not used to impart a particular color or hue to the composition according to the invention, even if their use can inherently lead to such a result. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.

As such, they are, in this respect, distinct from nacres, organic pigment materials such as, for example, carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. and inorganic pigment materials such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate chromium and ferric blue, which are used to provide a hue and color effect to the compositions incorporating them. Such compounds are not covered, within the meaning of the invention, by the definition of charges which therefore cover non-pigmentary fillers that may be organic or inorganic.

The non-pigmentary fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber-like, or any other form intermediate between these defined forms. The size of the particles, namely their particle size, is chosen so as to ensure good dispersion of the fillers in the composition according to the invention. The particle size of the particles may be distributed in the range from 5 pm to 10 nm, in particular from 10 pm to 10 nm. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, in particular surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance that promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. Mineral Charts For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "mineral" and "inorganic" are used interchangeably. Among the non-pigmentary inorganic fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, perlite, which is especially commercially available from WORLD MINERALS EUROPE under the trade name Perlite P1430 and Perlite P2550. or Perlite P204, kaolin, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), microcapsules glass or ceramic, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-pigmentary inorganic filler selected from the group comprising kaolin, talc, silica, perlite, clay and mixtures thereof.

Organic fillers Among the organic fillers, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- (3-alanine and polyethylene, lauroyl-lysine, starch, polymer powders). tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymer (such as polytrap (Dow Corning)), acrylate copolymers , PMMA, 12-hydroxystearic acid oligomer stearate and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, acid-derived metallic soaps organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof. of the presen In the invention, the organic fillers are distinct from the pigments.

It may also be particles comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylolhexyl lactone. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from the company TOSHIKI.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one filler selected from talc, silica, starch, clay, kaolin, perlite, and mixtures thereof. One or more dispersing agents may be optionally used to protect the dispersed fillers or particles against agglomeration or flocculation. They can be added independently of solid charges or particles or as a colloidal dispersion of particles. The dispersant concentration is chosen so as to obtain a satisfactory dispersion of the solid particles (without flocculation).

This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, bearing one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, the polyhydroxy-12-stearic acid esters, such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate, having a molecular weight of about 750 g / mole, such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21000®, are used. the company Avecia, esters of polyhydroxy-12-stearic acid with polyols such as glycerol, diglycerol, such as polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymuls PGPH® by HENKEL (or poly (12-hydroxystearate) diglycerol), or poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema and mixtures thereof.

As another dispersant that may be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, such as Solsperse 17000® sold by the company Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.

Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a pasty fatty substance and / or a dyestuff and / or a filler and / or a lipophilic gelling agent and / or a silicone resin.

ADDITIONAL USUAL COSMETIC INGREDIENTS The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen in particular from film-forming polymers, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, deodorants, sequestering agents, film-forming agents, semi-crystalline polymers and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the envisioned addition.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any acceptable and customary form for a cosmetic composition. They can therefore be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion including oil in water with vesicles; an organic or oily solution optionally thickened or even gelled; an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, or multiple emulsion; a gel or a mousse; an oily or emulsified gel; a dispersion of vesicles, in particular lipids; a biphase or multiphase lotion; a spray; a lotion, a cream, an ointment, a soft paste, an ointment, a solid cast or molded and especially stick or cup, or compacted solid. Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand, of the application envisaged for the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 3%, or better, less than 1% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably the composition is completely anhydrous. By anhydrous is meant in particular that the water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a lipstick.

According to a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in a linear form at 20 ° C., such as a lip gloss, for example. According to a second embodiment, the composition is in solid form at 20 ° C. In the case of a lipstick, it can act as a lipstick stick or a lipstick poured cup for example. By "solid" is meant a composition whose hardness measured according to the preceding protocol is greater than or equal to 30 Nm- 'at the temperature of 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

Hardness measurement protocol: The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol: The lipstick stick is stored at 20 ° C. for 24 hours before measuring the hardness. The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C. by the so-called "butter-cutting thread" method, which consists in cutting a product stick, preferably cylindrical of revolution, transversely, using a rigid tungsten wire. diameter 250 μm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm-1, is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by INDELCO-20 CHATILLON. The measurement is repeated three times and averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and divided by L which represents the highest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in 25 meters). The hardness is converted to Nm- 'by the equation below: (Yx 10-3 x9.8) / L For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is kept at this new temperature for 24 hours before the measurement. According to this measuring method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure greater than or equal to 40 Nm -1, preferably greater than 50 Nm -1.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has, in particular, a hardness at 20 ° C. of less than 500 Nm, especially less than 400 Nm, preferably less than 300 Nm -1.

The compositions according to the invention can be used for care or makeup of keratin materials such as skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, and more particularly for makeup of lips, eyelashes and / or face.

They can therefore be in the form of a care product and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, or nails; a solar or self-tanning product; they are advantageously in the form of a make-up composition, in particular mascara, eyeliner, lipstick, lip gloss, blush, eyeliner, foundation, nail varnish. nails or nail care.

The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the nails and / or the eyelashes, comprising the application to the said materials of a cosmetic composition. as defined previously. This process according to the invention makes it possible in particular to care for or make up said keratin materials, in particular the lips and / or the nails, by application of a composition, in particular lipstick, lip gloss ( gloss), nail care or nail polish according to the invention.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following exemplary embodiments. Example 1B Preparation of the Supramolecular Silicone B Compound

Ureidopyrimidone functionalized PDMS In a 1 liter reactor, 296 g of reference silicone polymer KF6002 from Shin Etsu and 49.3 g of isophorone diisocyanate are mixed at 20 ° C. under an inert atmosphere. The reaction medium is heated to 40 ° C. and then the catalyst (dibutyl tin dilaurate, 25 microliters) is added. The heating is maintained for 45 minutes. 14.9 g of the following structure junction group (SupraPolix) CH 3 H, NOH 2 HN N O 15 previously dispersed in propylene carbonate (140 ml) were added, followed by the addition of 280 ml of butyl acetate. The reaction medium is heated at 140 ° C. for 1 hour. The isocyanates are neutralized with the addition of ethanol at 70 ° C for 3 hours and then overnight at room temperature. The reaction medium is diluted in 1300 ml of methyl tetrahydrofuran, followed by filtration under a slight vacuum (800 mbar). Evaporation of the solvent is followed by isododecane stripping. The desired polymer is obtained at 21.8% solids in isodoedcane, characterized by GPC.

Examples of compositions 1 and 2: Solid lipsticks

The following solid lipstick compositions were prepared: Type Cos-Compounds (INCI name) Composition Composite 1 according to the invention according to the invention (% by weight) Weight YELLOW 5 LAKE 0 , 86 - IRON OXIDES COLORANT (and) IRON OXIDES 0.96 - BLUE 1 LAKE COLORANT 0.2 - RED 7 COLORANT 0.45 1.51 TITANIUM DIOXIDE DYE 0.2 1.82 NACRE MICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE 4 , 3 - COLOR RED 28 LAKE - 1.26 COLOR YELLOW 6 LAKE - 2.05 COLOR Iron Oxide - 1.36 WAX MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (MICROWAX 8 - HW from Paramelt) WAX C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE (SF 1642 from 2 - Momentive Performance Materials) Wax Polyethylene wax (PERFORMALENE 500- - 8 L POLYETHYLENE from New Phase Technologies) HYDROGENATED BODY COCO-GLYCERIDES 10 - GRAS (SOFTISAN 100 from Sasol) Compound Supramolecular silicone compound B prep- 6,61 8,36 Supramolated in Example 1B above (at 21.8% in the silico-isododecane tube). Compound JARCOL 24 (51.3% in isodod) ecane) 26.45 33.42 supramolecular (Supramolecular compound No. 12 prepared beforehand) Ethanol 2 1 SILICONE PHENYL TRIMETHICONE (DC 556 16.93 26.22 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID Dow Corning) SILICONE TRIMETHYLSILOXYPHENYL 21.04 DIMETHICONE (WACKER WACKER-BELSIL PDM 1000) TOTAL: TOTAL: 100 100 Preparation Protocol: In a first step, the pigments were milled with the tri-cylinder mill in part of the phenyltrimethicone. The remaining liposoluble ingredients (except the waxes) were then mixed in a skillet at a temperature of about 45 ° C with Rayneri stirring. Once the mixture is homogeneous, the composition is heated to 98 ° C. and the waxes are added. Once the fatty phase is homogeneous, the ground material and the nacres if present have been incorporated into the mixture. Finally, the composition was cast in molds (preheated to 40 ° C to obtain sticks 11.6 mm in diameter and the whole is allowed to cool in a freezer for the time necessary to achieve an effective quenching (About one hour) The sticks were then allowed to stand at room temperature for 24 hours.

Evaluation :

For the compositions 1 and 2 are obtained homogeneous sticks, solid (not breaking during application), stable at 23 ° C. to 45 ° C. for 1 month (no exudation or phase shift is observed) . The sticks obtained are easy to apply on the lips (sliding and easy disintegration) and the deposit obtained is homogeneous and of uniform thickness.

After application of the compositions to the lips, the following results are observed: For each of compositions 1 and 2, the makeup deposits obtained are homogeneous, comfortable, non-transferable and non-tacky. In addition, for each of the deposits, a satisfactory gloss level (satin deposit) is obtained immediately after application and 1 hour after application.

Claims (31)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least (a) a supramolecular hydrocarbon compound A obtainable by reaction between: at least one oil bearing at least one nucleophilic reactive functional group chosen from OH and NH 2, and at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a linking group involving at least 3 hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least one function isocyanate or imidazole reactive reactive with the reactive function carried by the oil, said junction group further comprising at least one unit of formula (I) or (II): ## STR2 ## Embedded image in which: R 1 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear or branched alkyl group; ## STR2 ## in C1-C32, ( ii) a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group and (iii) a C4-C16 aryl group; optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-C12 alkyl radical; or a mixture of these groups; R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, carbon, radical, C1-C32, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F; , Si and P; (b) a silicone compound B chosen from polysiloxanes corresponding to the following formula (IIa) or comprising at least one unit of formula (IIb) according to: R R R R. Wherein: the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based (especially alkyl) hydrocarbon-based group, in which: ## STR1 ## in which: linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C20, optionally aromatic, which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S and N; the radicals Q1, Q2 and Q3, identical or different, monovalent, represent either unradical R as defined above; or a linking group capable of forming at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds, and most preferably 4 H bonds; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Q1 to Q3 is different from R in the formula (Ila); the divalent radical Q4 represents a linking group capable of forming at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds, and still more preferably 4 H bonds; - n is an integer between 2 and 1000; m is an integer from 0 to 300; - c is an integer between 1 and 300; and wherein m, n and c are such that the number average molecular weight (Mn) of the functionalized polysiloxane (Ila) or (Ilb) is between 500 and 100,000; (c) a coloring matter. 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil carrying the reactive function is chosen from, alone or in mixture: (i) fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated comprising 1 or more OH; optionally comprising one or more NH 2, such as linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 28, monohydric, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, and in particular isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isopalmitoyl alcohol, butyl-2-octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-octyl decanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-octyltetradecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, 2-dodecyl hexadecanol (ii) esters and ethers bearing at least one free OH group, and in particular esters and partial polyol ethers, and hydroxylated carboxylic acid esters; preferably the esters of dicarboxylic acid hydroxylated with a monoalcohol, and in particular of malic acid, and in particular C4-40 alkyl malates, such as 2-diethyl hexyl malate, diisostearyl malate, malate of 2-dioctyl dodecyl, (iii) natural, natural, modified, vegetable, hydroxylated oils. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil carrying the reactive functional group is chosen from, alone or as a mixture: linear or branched C 6 -C 50 and especially C 6 -C 32 monoalcohols, in particular C8-C28, saturated or unsaturated, and especially isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isopalmitoyl alcohol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-octyl decanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-octyltetradecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, 2-dodecyl hexadecanol; linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 40, in particular C 8 -C 38, diols, which are saturated or unsaturated, and in particular branched C 32 -C 36; linear or branched triols of C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 28, saturated or unsaturated, and especially phytantriol; the partial esters of pentaerythritol, and in particular pentaerythrityl adipate, pentaerythrityl caprate, pentaerythrityl succinate, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, pentaerythrityl triisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl triisostearate, tetradecyltetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl, pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctyl dodecanoate; dipentaerythritol diesters, triesters, tetraesters or pentaesters, and especially dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate, dipentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, dipentaerythrityl tri (polyhydroxystearate); trimethylolpropane mono and di-esters such as trimethylolpropane monoisostearate, trimethylolpropane di-isostearate, trimethylolpropane monoethyl-2 hexylate, trimethylolpropane diethyl-2 hexylate; di-trimethylolpropane mono-, di- and tri-esters, such as di-trimethylolpropane diisostearate, di-trimethylolpropane triisostearate, di-trimethylolpropane tri-ethyl hexanoate, monoesters or poly-esters; partial glycerol or polyglycerols, and in particular: - the glycerol di-isostearate, the di-isononanoate glycerol, - mono-, di- and tri-esters of polyglycerol-2; for example with isostearic acid, 2-ethyl hexyl acid and / or isononanoic acid; and in particular polyglyceryl-2-isostearate; polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate; polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; polyglyceryl-2-nonaisostearate; polyglyceryl-2-nonanoate; mono-, di-, tri- or tetra-esters of polyglycerol-3; for example with either isostearic acid, 2-ethyl hexyl acid and / or isononanoic acid; and especially polyglyceryl-3-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate; polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate; polyglyceryl-3-nonaisostearate; polyglyceryl-3-nonanoate; partial esters of polyglycerol-10 and in particular polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate; polyglyceryl-10-nonanoate; polyglyceryl-10-isostearate, polyglyceryl-10-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 triisostearate; propylene glycol monoesters such as propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol neopentanoate, propylene glycol monooctanoate; dimer-diol monoesters such as isostearyl dimer dilinoleate and octyl dodecyl dimer dilinoleate; glycerol ethers, such as polyglyceryl-2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl-3-cetyl ether, polyglyceryl-3-decyltetradecyl ether and polyglyceryl-2 stearyl; esters between hydroxylated mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acid and monoalcohols, and in particular: esters, in particular monoesters, of 12-hydroxystearic acid; such as octyl hydroxystearate and octyl-2-dodecyl hydroxystearate; mention may also be made of the corresponding oligomeric polyhydroxystearates, in particular having a degree of polymerization of 1 to 10, having at least one residual OH; esters of lactic acid, and in particular C4-40 alkyl lactates, such as 2-ethylhexyl lactate, diisostearyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, isononyl lactate, lactate, 2-octyldodecyl; malic acid esters, and in particular C4-40 alkyl malates, such as 2-diethyl hexyl malate, diisostearyl malate, 2-dioctyl dodecyl malate; esters of citric acid, and in particular C4-40 alkyl citrates, such as triisostearyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate and tri-isoarachidyl citrate. triglycerine esters bearing one or more OH, castor oil, hydrogenated or not, and its derivatives, in particular derived from the transesterification of castor oil; modified epoxidized oils, the modification consisting of opening the epoxy function to obtain a diol, and especially hydroxylated modified soybean oil; hydroxylated soybean oils (directly hydroxylated or first epoxidized). 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil has a molar mass (Mw) of between 150 and 6000, in particular between 170 and 4000, or even between 180 and 2000, preferably between 200 and 1500, and even better between 220 and 800 g / mol. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which, in the joining group, the radical R 1 represents: a divalent alkylene group, linear or branched, C 2 -C 12, in particular a 1,2-ethylene group, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene, 1,6- (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4- (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene), 1,6- (6-methylheptylene), 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene). a divalent C 4 -C 12 cycloalkylene or arylene group, especially chosen from the following radicals -isophorone-, tolylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene, 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène; 4,4-bisphénylèneméthylène; or of structure:> - 35 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which, in the joining group, the radical R2 represents H, or else: a C1-C32 alkyl group, in particular a C1-C16, or even a C1-C6 alkyl group; C10; a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group; a C4-C12 aryl group; an aryl (C 4 -C 12) C 1 -C 18 alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group; an arylalkoxy group, in particular a (C 1 -C 4) aryl alkoxy group; a C4-C12 heterocycle or a combination of these radicals, which may optionally be substituted by an amino, ester and / or hydroxyl function. 7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein in the joining group, the radical R3 represents a divalent radical -R'3-0-C (O) -NHR'4- in which R'3 and R'4, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a linear or branched C1-C32 alkyl group or a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group or a C4-C16 aryl group; or their mixture. 8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein in the joining group, (a) in the formula (I), there is: - R1 = -isophorone- and R2 = methyl, - R1 = - ( CH2) 6- and R2 = methyl, - R1 = - (CH2) 6- and R2 = isopropyl, or - R1 = 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene and R2 = methyl, or (b) in formula (II), R1 represents the radical -isophorone-, R2 = methyl and R3 = - (CH2) 2000-NH-isophorone-. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the linking group has the formula: ## STR1 ## or of formula: OCN - R 3 - 1 IN R2N NH Wherein R 1, R 2 and R 3 are as defined in any one of the preceding claims. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the linking group is selected from the following groups: ## STR1 ## NCO ~, NH O H3CCH3 0 NN ~~ N ~~~ NCO 1 1 HH x ONO ~ / N NCO O OCN XN NNOHH 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the supramolecular compounds are chosen from those corresponding to the following structures: O isostearyl-O-O-N-OOO isostearyl isostearyl isostearyl X 00 -0 N N-O O 0-isostearyl N NN H HOHO NO 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the number-average molecular weight (Mn) of the supramolecular compound is between 180 to 8000, preferably 200 to 6000, or even 300 to 4000, and even more preferably 400 to at 3000, preferably from 500 to 1500. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of supramolecular hydrocarbon compound A present in the composition is between 5% and 95% by weight, preferably between 10% and 95% by weight, and more preferably preferably between 20% and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the polysiloxane is such that m, n and c are chosen in such a way that the number-average molecular weight of the functionalized polysiloxane (Ila) or (Ilb) is between 500 and 100. 000, especially between 1000 and 50 000, even between 2000 and 25 000, even better between 3000 and 15 000. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysiloxane is such that: m is between 1 and 50, or even 2 and 20, more preferably 3 and 15; and / or - n is between 3 and 700, especially 5 and 400, or even 10 and 200, more preferably 20 and 100; and / or - c is between 2 and 150, more preferably between 3 and 80, more preferably between 4 and 20; and / or - the radical R is a linear C 1 -C 20, in particular C 1 -C 12, alkyl group; a branched C 3 -C 20, in particular C 3 -C 12, alkyl group; C4-C20 cycloalkyl, especially C4-C10; C4-C20 aryl, especially C4-C10 aryl; C 5 -C 20 arylalkyl, especially C 5 -C 10 arylalkyl; these groups being optionally substi-killed by an NH 2 and / or OH function; preferentially, R is a methyl radical. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysiloxane is such that the linking groups Q1 to Q4 comprise at least one monovalent unit of formula (Ia) and / or at least one divalent unit of formula (Ib): embedded image in which: R 1 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear alkyl group; branched C1-C32, (ii) C4-C16 cycloalkyl and (iii) C4-C16 aryl; said groups optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or said groups being optionally substituted by an ester, amide or a C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical function; or a mixture of these groups; R2 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, carbon, especially linear, hydrocarbon (alkyl) radical, in C1-C32, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P. 17. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polysiloxane is such that: a) the radical R1 is: - a divalent alkylene group, linear or branched, C 2 -C 12, especially a 1,2-ethylene group, 1 6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene, 1,6- (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4- (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene), 1,6- (6-methylheptylene), 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene). a divalent C 4 -C 12 cycloalkylene or arylene group, especially chosen from the following radicals -isophorone-, tolylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene, 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène; 4,4-bisphénylèneméthylène; or of structure: ## STR2 ## wherein R 2 is H, CH 3, ethyl, C 13 H 27, C 7 H 15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9); and / or c) R4 = H; and / or d) R3 is of structure: CH3 0 18. A composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the polysiloxane is such that: a) in the formula (la), R1 = -isophorone-, R2 = methyl and R4 = H, or R1 = - (CH2) 6- , R2 = methyl and R4 = H, or R1 = - (CH2) 6-, R2 = isopropyl and R4 = H, or R1 = 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, R2 = methyl and R4 = H, b) in the formula (Ib), R1 = -isophorone-, R2 = methyl and R3 = - (CH2) 2000-NH-isophorone-. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysiloxane of formula (Ila) or comprising a unit (Ilb) is derived from the reaction, in particular from the polycondensation, of at least one polysiloxane carrying at least one a reactive function, for example OH or NH 2, with at least one linking group carrying at least one reactive functional group capable of reacting with the reactive functional group (s) of the polysiloxane. 20. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polysiloxane carrying a reactive function is selected from: - telechelic polysiloxanes (end-chain reactive functions), such as those bearing hydride, amino or OH functions; polysiloxanes with pendant reactive functions, such as those bearing hydride, amino or OH functional groups; polysiloxanes having at least one reactive functional group at the end of the chain and at least one pendant reactive function, such as those carrying a hydride, amino or alkoxy functional group. 21. Composition according to Claim 19, characterized in that the linking group carrying a reactive functional group is of formula: ## STR2 ## in which: R 1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH 2) 6 -, -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (CH3) 2-CH2-CH2, 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; and / or - R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9); or the linking group carrying two reactive functional groups has the formula: ## STR2 ## in which: R 1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH 2) 2-, - (CH2) 6-, -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (CH3) 2-CH2-CH2,304,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; and / or - R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9); and / or - R3 represents a divalent radical -R'3-0-C (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl group or a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group or a C4-C12 aryl group; or their mixtures; and in particular R'3 represents a C1-C4 alkylene, especially 1,2-ethylene and R'4 represents the divalent radical derived from isophorone. 22. A composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the junction group is of formula: ## STR1 ## 23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysiloxane carrying the joining group has a number-average molecular mass (Mn) of between 500 and 100,000, in particular between 1,000 and 50,000, and even between 2,000 and 25,000. even better between 3,000 and 15,000. 24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysiloxane carrying the junction group is of the following formula: CH, CH, Si-O Si-C al H, CH, H, C CH, CH 3 CH, Si -0 CH, and preferably: - a is between 2 and 1000, more preferably 3 and 700, especially 5 and 400, or even 10 and 200, more preferably 20 and 100; and / or - b is between 1 and 300, more preferably 2 and 150, more preferably between 3 and 80, more preferably between 4 and 20. 25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone compound B, alone or as a mixture, is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 40% by weight. preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, or even 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 26. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one silicone oil, preferably chosen from: i) phenyl silicone oils, in particular of formula (VII) or (II): Wherein: R1 to R6, independently of one another, are cyclic or branched linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals, in C1, or in which R1 to R6 are independently of one another; -C30, - m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m' is between 1 and 100; Wherein the R groups independently represent methyl or phenyl, independently of one another. ii) linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), iii) polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. 15 27. - Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said (or said) oilsiliconée, is present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 28. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one wax, and in that the composition is preferably in solid form. 29. - Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a pasty fatty substance and / or a filler and / or a lipophilic gelling agent and / or a silicone resin and / or a film-forming polymer. 30. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in the form of a care composition and / or makeup of the skin or lips, preferably in the form of a lipstick. 35 31. A process for making up or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin or the lips, comprising the application to said materials of a cosmetic composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims. 25 30