FR2958545A1 - Cosmetic use of an extract from Pyrus cydonia to stimulate production of collagen type I, to fight against or prevent sagging skin, to fight against and prevent breast ptosis, and prevent or treat the skin and mammary ptosis - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of an extract from Pyrus cydoniato stimulate production of collagen type I, is claimed. An independent claim is included for use of an extract from Pyrus cydonia, for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition to stimulate production of collagen type I. ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Ophthalmological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : Collagen I synthesis stimulator. The ability of the extract to stimulate synthesis of collagen type I was tested. The result showed that the extract increased 230% of the production of the collagen type I.

Description

COSMETIC USE OF A COING EXTRACT

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of Pyrus cydonia to stimulate the production of type I collagen. It also relates, in particular, to a method for preventing or treating mammary ptosis consisting of to apply an extract of Pyrus l0 cydonia on the chest. It finds applications in the fields of cosmetics.

The skin consists of three main parts. A superficial thin part called epidermis, an inner and thick part called dermis, and a deep part called hypodermis. The dermis is separated from the epidermis by the "dermoepidermal junction". It continues in depth with no frank limit by the hypodermis. The main cells present in the dermis are fibroblasts. These cells, of mesenchymal origin, intervene in the formation and the stabilization of the extracellular material, but also in their dystrophy and their lysis. They synthesize collagen, elastin, the basic substance and structural glycoproteins. Their activity is intense, especially during healing phenomena. During aging, the fibroblast decreases its activity and this resting cell is often called a fibrocyte. It becomes globular, with a decrease in its cytoplasm and a rarefaction of its endoplasmic reticulum whose vesicles are very dispersed. The cytoskeleton takes on a fasciculated appearance. This cell is no longer in contact with the collagen. The dermis thus consists of a connective tissue which combines collagen fibers, elastic fibers and various cells bathed in an amorphous fundamental substance. It also contains the cutaneous appendages, which are the pilosebaceous follicles and the sweat glands, as well as vessels and nerves. By its fibers and its fundamental substance, the dermis contributes first of all to give the skin its mechanical properties: elasticity, impact resistance, etc. Dermal fibers include collagen fibers and elastic fibers. They represent quantitatively the most important structural proteins of the dermis, respectively 75% and 5% of their dry weight. Their relative proportion and their disposition are different according to the superficial or deep zones of the dermis. Collagens are a very big family. These are extracellular matrix molecules composed of three polypeptide chains bearing the repetition of 3 amino acids: -Gly-X-Y, where X and Y are often prolines and hydroxyprolines.

The "collagen fibers" of the dermis consist respectively of type I collagen and type III collagen, around an axis composed of type V collagen. These collagens belong to the group of fibrillar collagens. The proportion of collagen I increases when one approaches the hypodermis.

In adults, type I collagen is, on average, six times more abundant than type III collagen. The collagen type I / collagen type III ratio decreases during aging. In particular, there is an exponential increase in chemical bridging between the collagen fibers due to the non-enzymatic Maillard glycation reaction. This chemical bridging of the aged collagen results in an increasing stiffening of the collagen fibers, which makes them more resistant to attack by collagenases and by free radicals. Its degradation and renewal are thus slowed down.

The breast is an even organ maintained by the skin and resting on the pectoral muscles. The mammary gland is at the origin of a specialized sweat gland. It consists of fat lobules and about twenty glandular lobules placed deep within the gland. Greasy lobules give the breast its supple consistency and shape. The glandular lobules are responsible for the secretion of the milk conveyed by the milk ducts towards the galactophore sinus opening on the nipple. The excretory ducts are surrounded and maintained by spans of connective tissue. The nipple and areola are a point of attachment of the breast but the skin is the main means of suspension of the gland. The skin is connected to the superficial face of the gland by Cooper's ligaments. The musculation of the pectorals does not make it possible to modify the form, nor to raise the breasts. With age, hormonal influences weight variations but also solar exposure, lack of bra, etc. the elastic fibers of the skin can break, the ligaments of Cooper distend. The skin losing its tonicity, the breasts sag. This phenomenon is called ptôse. The mammary ptosis thus translates a sliding with sagging of the gland and an exaggerated distension of the skin envelope. The structure and the volume of the breasts evolve throughout the life of the women. Over time, the skin of the chest loses its elasticity and tone. Breasts no longer have the same shape or the same outfit. Several factors are involved. The main cause of bust alteration is natural aging. Aging leads in particular to a slowing down of the synthesis of dermal fibers. The support tissues of the bust relax even earlier than the breasts are subjected to the law of gravity. Other causes of loss of elasticity and tonicity of the breasts are due to changes in volume. These variations can be related to puberty, hormonal changes, pregnancy, breastfeeding, menopause, menstrual cycles, sudden weight gain or loss.

All these variations make the cutaneous tissue less elastic and less firm. Collagen fibers, exposed to an earlier rupture, are less effective against relaxation.

Lifestyle habits also influence the elasticity and tone of the bust. This may include sun exposure, lack of bra, inappropriate bras, hot baths, physical exercise. These factors affect the quality of the skin texture, which becomes less tight and less smooth, but especially on the skin reinforcement whose support function is reduced.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The object of the present invention is precisely to provide a solution to the problems of the prior art. To this end, the subject of the present invention is in particular the cosmetic use of an extract of Pyrus cydonia to stimulate the production of type I collagen. The inventors have unexpectedly realized that the use of an extract of Pyrus cydonia can improve and even restore the elasticity and tone of the skin. It also makes it possible to tighten and smooth the grain of the skin while strengthening the skin reinforcement. Surprisingly, the inventors have also found that the use of an extract of Pyrus cydonia can prevent and treat the sagging of the breasts, or even to make them shapely. The genus Pyrus, from the Rosaceae family, is native to Asia. He arrived in Europe from the temperate regions of the Caucasus and Iran. Pyrus cydonia is also called Cydonia oblonga, Cydonia vulgaris or "quince". The quince is a shrub or small deciduous tree, usually between 5 and 8 meters high and between 4 and 6 meters wide. The young twigs are tomentose. The leaves are alternate, simple, 6 to 11 centimeters long, with a pubescent edge. The 30 flowers of the quince tree have five pink-white petals are 4 to 5 centimeters in diameter. The quince forms like pome fruits called "quince". Immature fruits are green and cottony on the surface. Most varieties lose this cottony veil before the end of autumn when the fruit changes color and becomes golden yellow when ripe. Piriforms, voluminous and very fragrant, the quinces measure in general from 7 to 12 centimeters long and 6 to 9 centimeters wide. Low in calories, quince is particularly rich in tannin, pectin and fiber, especially in skin and seeds, and vitamins A, B1, B2 and C, and calcium, iron, phosphorus manganese and potassium. Quince also contains flavonol glucosides, glucosides derived from alpha-ionol, a terpenoid, namely cydonioside A, and glycosylated carotenoids. The skin of the quince contains in particular many polyphenols. Quince is recognized for its antidiarrheal, antidysenteric, astringent, haemostatic, emollient and soothing activities. Quince is especially indicated against gingivitis, diarrhea and hemorrhoids.

According to the present invention, the Pyrus cydonia extract may, for example, be a hydrophilic extract. The pyrus cydonia extract may, for example, come from fruits, leaves, flowers, roots or seeds (or pips) of Pyrus cydonia. The extract preferably comes from the whole fruit, that is to say with the skin, the pulp and the seeds. Whatever part of the plant used to make Pyrus cydonia extract, the extract can be obtained by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art. It may be for example a process comprising the following steps: aqueous pyrus cydonia extraction, clarification, optionally an addition of polyol, optionally filtration.

The aqueous extraction step (a) makes it possible to solubilize the active substances present in Pyrus cydonia. It may, for example, consist of a step of grinding, pressing, cutting or a combination of these (a) (b) (c) (d) steps, of one or more parts of Pyrus cydonia. This step is preferably followed by infusion of parts of Pyrus cydonia which have been cut and / or crushed and / or pressed in an aqueous medium. Alternatively, the grinding and / or pressing and / or cutting steps are carried out directly in an aqueous medium. The aqueous solution may be, for example, water, a mixture of water and alcohol. For example, the alcohol may be selected from the group consisting of ethanol. When the aqueous solution is a water / alcohol mixture, the water / alcohol ratio can be between 20/80 and 80/20, for example between 40/60 and 60/40, for example the water / ethanol ratio can be 50/80. / 50. The step (b) of clarifying the medium obtained in step (a) makes it possible to separate the pieces of Pyrus cydonia from an aqueous solution containing the assets stimulating the production of type I collagen. It may be decantation, filtration, centrifugation or a combination of two or three of these clarification means. For example, the filtration can be carried out through a filter whose pore size is between 10 and 450 microns, for example between 20 and 250 microns. According to the present invention, the extract obtained in step (b) can be used as such for stimulating the production of type I collagen. This extract can also be subjected to steps (c) and (d). Step (c) of adding polyol allows forming a creamy composition comprising an extract of Pyrus cydonia. For example, the polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerine, erythriol, lactitol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol. For example, the polyol is glycerine. The polyol may be added to the clarified extract obtained in step (b) at a concentration ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, for example between 40% and 60%, for example between 45% and 55% by weight. .

The filtration step (d) makes it possible to retain the impurities present in the Pyrus cydonia extract and polyol extract mixture, as is well known to those skilled in the art.

The pyrus cydonia extract may also be obtained from a supplier, for example the company Greentech S.A (Beauzire, France) under the reference "Organic Hydroglycerine Coing Extract (G)". To stimulate the production of type I collagen, the Pyrus cydonia extract can in particular be used alone or in a cosmetic composition. When the extract is used in a cosmetic composition, it can be used at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 99.9% by weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the concentration of Pyrus cydonia extract may range from 0.01% to 50%, for example from 0.01% to 10%, for example from 0.01% to 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition. According to the present invention, Pyrus cydonia extract can be used to prevent or treat sagging skin. Pyrus cydonia extract may, for example, be used to prevent or treat breast ptosis. The present invention also relates to the use of an extract of Pyrus cydonia for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition intended to stimulate the production of type I collagen. In other words, the present invention also relates to a process for producing a cosmetic composition comprising a step of adding an extract of Pyrus cydonia in a mixture to form a cosmetic composition intended to stimulate the production of type I collagen. In the cosmetic composition, the Pyrus extract cydonia may, for example, be used at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 99.9% by weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the concentration of Pyrus cydonia extract may range from 0.01% to 50%, for example from 0.01% to 10%, for example from 0.01% to 5% by weight of the cosmetic composition. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more formulating agents or additives of known and conventional use in cosmetic compositions. It may be for example a softener, a dye, a sunscreen, a film-forming active agent, a surfactant, a preservative, an emulsifier, a glycol , a vitamin. With this knowledge of cosmetics, those skilled in the art will know which formulating agents to add to the composition and in what quantities depending on the desired properties.

The cosmetic composition may be in any form known to those skilled in the art. It may be, for example, a form selected from the group consisting of an emulsion, a serum, a gel and a lotion. For example, the emulsion may be a microemulsion. On the other hand, the emulsion may be, for example, a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion. By way of example, the emulsion may be, for example, a milk. The subject of the present invention is also a process for the prevention or cosmetic treatment of applying an extract of Pyrus cydonia or a composition comprising such an extract to the skin. The present invention also relates to a method for the prevention or cosmetic treatment of mammary ptosis comprising applying an extract of Pyrus cydonia or a composition comprising such an extract on the bust. According to the present invention, Pyrus cydonia extract can be applied to any part of the body to fight against or prevent sagging skin.

Other advantages may still appear to those skilled in the art on reading the examples, illustrated by the appended figures, given for illustrative purposes.

Brief Description of the Figures - Figure 1 shows a diagram of a cross section of a breast. "0" represents the skin, "1" the pectoral muscles, "2" the Cooper ligaments, "3" the nipple, "4" the areola, "5" the milk ducts, "6" the connective tissue, " 7 "greasy lobules and" 8 "glandular lobules. FIG. 2 is a diagram representing the quantity (in nanogram ("ng")) of type I collagen ("Col I") secreted as a function of the concentration of quince extract expressed as a percentage by volume. "T" means untreated control. "Ext" means quince extract.

EXAMPLES Example 1: Quince Extract A quince extract obtained from the company Greentech S.A (Beauzire, France) under the reference "Coing Extract Hydroglycerine Bio (G)".

EXAMPLE 2 Effects of a Quince Extract on the Elasticity and Firmness of the Skin This example aims at a particular type of modification favoring the loss of elasticity and firmness of the skin, namely the disorganization and the rarefaction of collagen.

The activity of quince extracts at different concentrations on the secretion of collagen type I fibroblasts in culture was measured.

2.1 Fibroblast culture: As a first step, normal human fibroblast cultures were established by the explant method from healthy Caucasian skin samples (abdominoplasty). The fibroblasts are cultured to confluence, that is to say until a cellular mat having no interstices between each cell is formed at 37 ° C. in a MEM ("Minimum Essential Medium") medium containing 2mM L-Glutamine and 10% fetal calf serum, in an atmosphere saturated with moisture with 5% CO2.

The fibroblasts are then peeled off with a buffered isotonic solution at pH 7.2 of 0.1% trypsin and 0.02% EDTA, and then seeded in 96-well microplates (Falcon) at 104 cells per well in MEM medium.

After 24 hours, this medium is replaced for a 48-hour incubation with an incubation medium (MEM medium containing no fetal calf serum and supplemented with 0.15 mM sodium ascorbate, with or without the complex of assets to be tested). Fibroblast cultures were made in incubation media comprising respectively 0.5, 1 and 3% by volume of quince extract. Control cultures did not contain quince extract.

2.2 Toxicity: Metabolism and cell viability were measured by colorimetry at 570 nm. MTT (dimethyl thiazol diphenyl tetrazolium) is metabolised by mitochondria to give blue crystals, the amount of which depends directly on the activity of the enzyme mitochondrial succinate dehydrogenase and the number of living cells.

The quince extract concentrations used were found to be non-cytotoxic for MU test cells.

2.3 Determination of collagen: The amount of type I collagen secreted in the medium after incubation with or without quince extract was determined using an ELISA test (Enzyme - Linked Immuno Sorbent Assay) allowing detect certain molecules (non-radioactive) at very low doses. The direct method was chosen, namely: - adsorption of the antigen (type I collagen) to a solid phase (plastic of a microtiter plate reserved for the ELISA). - addition of a first specific antibody (mouse monoclonal anti-collagen I antibody). - Fixing a second antibody (goat anti-mouse IgG Conjugate) directed against the first antibody. This second antibody is itself linked to an enzymatic mark, alkaline phosphatase. - transformation by the enzymatic mark of a substrate (p NPP or paranitrophenylphosphate) into a detectable product (paranitrophenol at 405 nm) in proportion to the amount of bound enzyme.

The incubation medium was collected and transferred to the wells of a microtiter plate. A 24 hour incubation at + 4 ° C. of the incubation medium allowed the adhesion of the collagen to the plastic. The plate is then rinsed with PBS (Phosphate Buffer Saline).

After 24 hours of incubation at + 4 ° C., anti-collagen I (Sigma, St Quentin Fallavier, France) antibodies diluted to 1/2000 and conjugated to an alkaline phosphatase (2 hours at room temperature) were placed in the cells. well, in the presence of serum albumin (2% in PBS) to avoid non-specific antibody-plastic binding.

Paranitrophenyl phosphate was introduced into the wells (1 hour at room temperature), making it possible to convert the alkaline phosphatase to absorbing paranitrophenol at 405 nm. The optical densities obtained are converted into ng of collagen using a calibration curve established under the same experimental conditions with collagen I, rat tail (collaborative Biomedical products). The calibration curve is constructed from the results obtained at from the rat type I collagen dilution range, from 0 to 2500 ng / mL from the stock solution. This experiment was carried out three times for each of the incubation media (quince extract at 0.5% by volume, quince extract at 1% by volume, quince extract at 3% by volume, control). 2.4 Results: Under the experimental conditions mentioned above, the quince extracts used at 0.5% and 1% respectively favored the synthesis of type I collagen at the level of 30% and 60% relative to the control.

When used at 3%, the extract generates a 230% increase in type I collagen production. The results are shown in Table 1 below and in Figure 1. Table 1: Effect of quince extracts on the production of collagen of Tvae I Collagen I average / deviation Synthesis of (ng) / well type collagen I (%) 32, 940 Control 69,887 54,6 +/- 19,3 - 61,057 Extract of 79,414 Quince at 0.5% 66,402 70.0 +/- 8.3 +28.1 64.078 Extract of 90.104 1% Quince 76.858 86.6 +/- 8.6 +58.6 92.892 Extract of 191.185 Quince at 3% 174.919 180.3 +/- 9.5 +230.2 174.687 Quince extract surprisingly stimulates and stimulates type I collagen synthesis programs at all tested concentrations.

EXAMPLE 3 Example of use of a quince extract A quince extract obtained in Example 1 is applied twice a day to the bust of a woman.

EXAMPLE 4 Example of Cosmetic Compositions Usable According to the Present Invention In these formulations, the quince extract is that defined in Example 1. The percentages of the compounds are expressed as a percentage by weight of the composition. "Q.S.P" means "sufficient quantity for" or "Quantum satis".

4.1 Water-in-oil emulsion An emulsion which can be used according to the present invention is prepared by mixing the following compounds: Compounds% PEG DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE 4.00 TRIGLYCERIDES C16-C18 HYDROGENES 5.00 PEG-45 / DODECYL GLYCOL COPOLYMER 1.20 TRIGLYCERIDES C8 -C10 19.00 VASELIN OIL FLUID 8.00 GLYCOLS 10.00 COATING EXTRACT 1.00 DEMINERALIZED WATER QSP 100 4.2 Lotion A lotion which can be used according to the present invention is prepared by mixing the following compounds. Compounds% GLYCOLS 2.00 CHLORIDE DE SODIUM 1.00 ETHANOL 5.00 COATING EXTRACT 1.00 TROMETHAMINE 0.80 PRESERVATIVES 0.50 SOLUBILIZING 0.30 PERFUME 0.10 DEMINERALIZED WATER QSP 100 4.3 Gel A gel which can be used according to the present invention is prepared by mixing the following compounds Compounds oh, CARBOXYMETHYLCELLULOSE 0.03 CARBOMER 0.60 WELDING 0.17 GLYCERIN 5.00 COING EXTRACT 1.00 D-PANTHENOL 75L 0.30 TOCOPHEROL ACETATE 0.05 HYDROGENATED CAST IRON PEG-40 1.35 CHELATING 0 , 03 PRESERVATIVES 0,50 COLOR ANT 0.017 PERFUME 0.30 DEMINERALIZED WATER QSP 100 4.4 Gel-Cream Oil in water A gel which can be used according to the present invention is prepared by mixing the following compounds: Compounds% CARBOPOL ULTREZ 10 0.20 ARISTOFLEX AVC 0.20 GLYCERIN 3, 00 CITRIC ACID 0.01 STEARINE 4.45 DIMETHICONE 350 CST 0.45 LANETTE SX 0.80 TRIGLYCERIDES C8-C10 7.10 WELDING 0.05 COATING EXTRACT 0.50 CHELATING 1.00 PRESERVATIVES 0.10 PERFUME 0.40 DEMINERALIZED WATER QSP 1000 4.5 Oil-in-water emulsion A gel which can be used according to the present invention is prepared by mixing the following compounds: Compounds 0.70 HELIOGEL ACRYLOYL DIMETHYLTAURATE / VP 0.50 COPOLYMER 4.00 GLYCOLS POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 0.30 C14 -22 ALCOHOLS & C12-20 ALKYL 2.00 GLUCOSIDE 4.00 CETEARYLETHYLHEXANOATE CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 8.00 SHEA BUTTER 3.00 DIMETHICONE 1.00 COATING EXTRACT 1.00 CHELATING 0.10 PRESERVATIVES 0.10 PERFUME 0, 40 DEMINERALIZED WATER QSP 1000

Claims (12)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic use of an extract of Pyrus cydonia to stimulate the production of type I collagen. 2. Use according to claim 1, wherein the Pyrus cydonia extract is a hydrophilic extract of Pyrus cydonia 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the Pyrus cydonia extract is an extract of the fruit of the plant. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the Pyrus cydonia extract is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: (a) aqueous extraction of Pyrus cydonia, and (b) clarification. 5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein, when the pyrus cydonia extract is used in a cosmetic composition, it is used at a concentration of from 0.01% to 10% by weight of the composition. 6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for combating or preventing sagging skin. 7. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for combating or preventing ptosis of the breasts. 8. Use of an extract of Pyrus cydonia for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for stimulating the production of type I collagen. 9. Use according to claim 8, wherein the pyrus cydonia extract is present in the cosmetic composition at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight of the composition. The use according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the cosmetic composition is in a form selected from the group consisting of an emulsion, a serum, a gel and a lotion. 11. A method of prevention or cosmetic treatment consisting in applying an extract of Pyrus cydonia or a composition comprising an extract of Pyrus cydonia on the skin. 12. A method for the prevention or cosmetic treatment of mammary ptosis comprising applying an extract of Pyrus cydonia or a composition comprising an extract of Pyrus cydonia on the bust.