FR2940110A1 - Preparing kaki extract, useful for reducing unpleasant odors remaining on hair after and/or during perming or straightening, comprises percolation of fluids (e.g. water), through solid or pasty substance containing kaki or pieces of kaki - Google Patents

Abstract

Preparing kaki extract, comprises percolation of one or more fluids, under a pressure of at least 3 bars (3x 10 5>Pa), through a solid or pasty substance containing one or more kaki or pieces of kaki. An independent claim is included for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as hair, comprising preparing the extract of kaki, optionally mixing the obtained extract to one or more solvents and/or one or more additives, and applying the obtained extract in the preparation step or mixture obtained in mixing step on the keratin materials.

Description

B 08/4070 EN GD / VMC OA 08537 / FLB Société Anonyme known as L'OREAL Process for the preparation of a persimmon extract, and use of this extract to reduce the unpleasant odors of the hair after a perm or straightening.

The invention relates to the use of a particular extract. khaki, to reduce the unpleasant odors that remain on the hair after a permanent shaping treatment or straightening. The present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic hair treatment using this particular extract. The present invention finally relates to a process for the preparation of this persimmon extract. One of the techniques commonly used in the cosmetics field to give the hair a durable form consists in carrying out the deformation of the hair using a reducing compound and then an oxidizing compound. The most usual technique for obtaining a permanent deformation of the hair consists firstly in opening the disulfide bonds (-SS-) of the keratin (cystine) with the aid of a composition containing a reducing compound, then after having preferably rinsed the hair thus treated, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to hair previously tensioned for example by means of hair curlers, or shaped or smoothed by other means, a oxidizing composition also called "fixer" so as to give the desired shape to the hair. This technique thus makes it possible to achieve either the waving of the hair, or their straightening or their curing or even their smoothing. This new form imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment, is durable over time for a few weeks and resists especially the action of washing with water or shampoos and this as opposed to techniques using styling products resulting in a temporary deformation, such as styling, such deformation disappearing from styling or shampooing. The reducing compositions generally used for the first step of a permanent shaping or straightening operation contain at least one reducing compound generally thiolated in an aqueous medium, and generally ammonia as basifying agent. These compositions lead to acceptable shaping.

However, these reducing compositions have a particular disadvantage. Indeed, when they are applied to the hair, there is an unpleasant odor associated with the (x) thiol (s) and ammonia used, the odor resulting from the intrinsic odor of these compounds and the odor of the products formed. by interaction with keratin ..

At the end of the treatment of permanent shaping or straightening, despite the fact that the compositions used are carefully rinsed, this unpleasant odor remains on the hair. It persists in a lasting way, including after several shampoos.

The use of the leaves and / or fruits of Diospyros persimmon for the preparation of deodorant compositions has already been described in the state of the art. Thus, patent application JP 2000/79158 describes a deodorant composition intended to eliminate undesirable dietary or body odors, and which comprises as active agent a water-soluble extract of green tea, in combination with either persimmon juice, optionally in solid or dehydrated form, an extract of persimmon. JP 2005/118230 discloses a deodorant composition prepared by adding an aqueous alkaline solution to a mixture of water and pressed persimmon juice. The patent application JP 2003/231620 describes a deodorant composition intended to be used in hair dyeing, to reduce unpleasant odors related in particular to the use of ammonia. This composition comprises as active agent at least one compound selected from abietic acid, its salts and derivatives, persimmon tannin, and fruit polyphenols. It is used by mixing it directly with the product containing ammonia such as an oxidation dyeing composition or a hair bleaching composition, which helps to reduce the unpleasant odors associated with the release of ammonia that occurs at the time of use of these products. The Applicant has now discovered that the unpleasant odor that remains on the hair after a permanent shaping treatment or hair straightening can be greatly reduced or eliminated, and this in a particularly effective manner, using a particular extract of persimmon . This extract is obtained by pressure extraction of persimmon.

The subject of the present invention is therefore the use, in order to reduce the unpleasant odors remaining on the hair after and / or during a permanent shaping or straightening treatment, of a persimmon extract obtained by percolation of one or more fluid (s) cosmetically acceptable (s), under a pressure of at least 3 bar (3.105 Pa), through a solid or pasty substance containing one or more persimmon or pieces of persimmon. In this paper, kaki refers to the leaking of the tree known as Diospyros khaki or persimmon, a deciduous tree, native to Central Asia and Japan.

According to the present invention, "percolation" refers to passing a fluid through a porous medium (i.e., a medium permitting passage of said fluid), under the action of pressure. The persimmon extract thus obtained has proved particularly effective in removing odors remaining on the hair after a permanent shaping or straightening treatment. In particular, its action persists over time, including after several shampoos.

The subject of the present invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the hair comprising: (a) the preparation of a persimmon extract by percolation of one or more cosmetically acceptable fluid (s) under a pressure of at least 3 bar (3.105 Pa) through a solid or pasty substance containing one or more persimmon or pieces of persimmon, then (b) optionally, the mixture of the extract obtained in step (a) ) to one or more cosmetically acceptable solvent (s) and / or one or more additive (s), and then (c) applying the extract obtained in step (a) or the mixture obtained to the step (b) on keratin materials. Preferably, the cosmetic treatment is a deodorizing treatment of keratin materials, carried out in particular during or after a permanent and / or straightening operation using one or more thiols. The subject of the present invention is also a process for preparing a persimmon extract, by percolation of one or more cosmetically acceptable fluid (s), under a pressure of at least 3 bar (3 × 10 5 Pa), at through a solid or pasty substance containing one or more persimmon or pieces of persimmon. This process makes it possible to obtain persimmon extracts whose effectiveness is improved, while avoiding the degradation of the active substances derived from persimmon fruit. The extracts are obtained fresh without the need to use preservatives or other stabilizers. The extracts are also enriched in active ingredients as a result of the extraction efficiency and low preparation times which limit the risk of degradation of said active ingredients. According to the present invention, the percolation is carried out by means of a fluid under pressure, at a temperature which is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C., more preferably of between 30 and 150 ° C., and even more preferentially of between 40 ° C. and 150 ° C. and 120 ° C, terminals included.

The pressure at which the percolation is carried out is preferably greater than or equal to 4 bar (4.105 Pa), more preferably greater than or equal to 10 bar (106 Pa), and more preferably between 10 and 30 bar (106 to 3.106 Pa). Pa) terminals included. According to an advantageous embodiment, the percolation step is carried out for a very short period of time, less than or equal to 2 minutes, preferably less than or equal to 1 minute, and more preferably less than or equal to 30 seconds.

The substance containing persimmon used for the preparation of the extract is in solid form or in pasty form. In the sense of the present invention, pasty form means an intermediate consistency between a solid phase and a liquid phase. The viscosity of this pasty form is preferably greater than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s at 25 ° C. with a shear rate of 10 s 1. Preferably, said substance is in solid form. It can for example be in the form of pieces, or powder. This substance may consist entirely of persimmon, or include persimmon. The persimmon can be used mixed with one or more adjuvants. When one or more adjuvants are present, the mixture preferably contains from 0.5 to 99% by weight of kaki, more preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, and still more preferably from 2 to 60% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the mixture. These adjuvants can be in particular solid or pasty, for example pulverulent. The adjuvants may be chosen from clays, salts, anionic, nonionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants, natural or synthetic thickeners, optionally modified starch, glass beads, silica, nylon, alumina , titanium dioxide, zeolites, poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, mono- or disaccharides such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol or fructose, oxide zinc, zirconium, silicates, talc, polyaspartic acid, calcium borosilicates, polyethylene, cotton, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), cellulose and its derivatives, superabsorbent compounds, magnesium carbonates or calcium, corn kernels, polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, silk, collagen, sawdust, fucus powder, flour or extracts of wheat, rice, pea, lupine, soy or barley, pol crosslinked yvinylpyrrolidone, calcium alginate, activated carbon, polyvinylidene / acrylonitrile particles, especially those sold under the general name of Expancel by the company Akzo Nobel under the particular references Expancel WE or DE Expancels, and their mixtures. Inert adjuvants which do not absorb the active ingredients of persimmon are preferred. According to a preferred embodiment, the substance to be extracted consists entirely of persimmon fruit, that is to say that it does not contain mixed admixture. Whether or not the substance to be extracted contains adjuvants, the khaki used in the composition of this substance may be in various forms, for example in the form of crushed or uncrushed whole fruits and / or dried, in the form of pieces of fresh fruit whole crushed or not and / or dried, in the form of a dried fruit powder.

According to the present invention, the percolation is carried out by means of one or more cosmetically acceptable fluids. By "cosmetically acceptable fluid" is meant a fluid compatible with keratin materials such as in particular the hair and the scalp.

Preferably, the cosmetically acceptable fluid comprises water and / or a cosmetically acceptable solvent chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols; polyol ethers; C5-C10 alkanes; C3.4 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; C1-C4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate; dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane; and their mixtures.

Said fluid may be in gaseous or liquid form. Preferably, the fluid comprises water. More preferably, said fluid is water, or a mixture of water with one or more C1-C4 alcohols and / or one or more polyols. In a particularly preferred manner, said fluid consists of water. It can then be in the form of liquid water, water vapor, or a mixture of water vapor and liquid water. The method according to the present invention can be implemented from a conventional device for generating a fluid under pressure. Such a device comprises a pressure-resistant chamber, equipped with a heat block, and a circuit for conveying the cosmetically acceptable fluid (s) to the substance to be extracted. According to one embodiment, the device further comprises a reservoir containing the cosmetically acceptable fluid (s), and a pump for conveying the fluid or fluids to the chamber. A particularly suitable device for carrying out the process of the present invention is an espresso type coffee machine. Such machines are well known in the art.

For example, these machines are described in patents AT 168405, US 2688911, DE 32433870 and IT 1265636. The substance to be extracted can be placed directly in the device generating the fluid under pressure, for example in a container intended for this purpose.

It may also be packaged in a particular packaging device, of the single dose or capsule type, comprising a closed housing delimited by at least one wall at least partially permeable to the fluid under a pressure of at least 3 bars. Such devices are, for example, described in patent applications WO 00/56629, EP 512470, WO 99/03573 or US 5897899. These packaging devices are generally airtight, moisture and / or light. According to a particular embodiment, the housing is delimited by two sealed sheets. According to another embodiment, the housing is delimited by a tray closed by a lid. These devices can be made from woven or non-woven materials, plastic or vegetable, for example, cellulose, metal such as aluminum or composite. Such devices are for example described in patent applications WO 00/56629, EP512470, US5897899 or WO 99/03573. According to the present invention, the persimmon fruit extract obtained by the particular method described above is used to reduce the unpleasant odors remaining on the hair after a permanent shaping or straightening treatment. This extract contains the active substances extracted by percolation of persimmon fruit, in solution or in suspension in the cosmetically acceptable fluid (s), as well as all or part of the possible adjuvants present in the substance to extract the extract. thus obtained can be used as such, or in the form of a cosmetic composition consisting of said extract in admixture with one or more cosmetically acceptable solvent (s) and / or one or more additive (s). The solvents that may be used for this purpose may advantageously be chosen from water and / or cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C 1 -C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols; polyol ethers; C5-C10 alkanes; C3.4 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; C1-C4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate; dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane; and their mixtures.

The additives which may be employed with the persimmon extract may be chosen for example from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof; anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrating agents; sequestering agents; the perfumes ; tampons; dispersants; conditioning agents; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents; colored or pearlescent pigments. The above additives are preferably present in an amount which may range, for each of them, up to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additives in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the persimmon fruit extract according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions envisaged. Preferably the composition used contains one or more thickeners or suspension stabilizers, such as for example Polyquaternium-37, marketed in particular under the name Salcare SC 96. The pH of the composition used is generally between 3 and 12, and preferably between 5 and 11. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used in cosmetics or else using conventional buffer systems. The composition used according to the invention may be in various forms, for example in the form of liquids such as lotions, creams, gels, foams, or in any other form suitable for carrying out treatment and / or care. keratinous fibers.

It may be for example a composition of shampoo, conditioner, care rinsed or not rinsed. Thus, according to one embodiment of the invention the persimmon extract can be incorporated into a shampoo or conditioner composition. The composition of shampoos and conditioners is widely known to those skilled in the art. The shampoos conventionally comprise a washing base consisting of one or more surfactant (s) chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. The after shampoos conventionally comprise at least one conditioning agent such as, for example, cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers and silicones. Shampoos may also include such conditioners. The shampoos and shampoos may also contain, in a non-exhaustive manner and known per se, one or more fatty substances such as for example vegetable oils, animal oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, waxes including waxy fatty alcohols liquid fatty alcohols, one or more conventional additives such as anti-hair loss agents, oxidizing agents, ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, inorganic or organic pigments, colored or not colorants, dyes, pearlescent and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilising agents, acidifying agents, basifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxyacids, perfumes and preservatives. According to another embodiment, the persimmon extract may be incorporated in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic lotion. The composition comprising the khaki extract may also be applied by means of an aerosol, and then comprise one or more propellants.

The cosmetic treatment method according to the invention comprises the application to the keratin materials of the persimmon fruit extract obtained by means of the process according to the invention, or of a cosmetic composition containing such an extract. The application can be done after the operation of permanent or straightening. It can also be done at the heart of the straightening or permanent operation, after the application of the reducing compositions and before the application of the fixing compositions which contain one or more oxidizing agents.

Preferably, after an exposure time of between 30 seconds and 30 minutes, more preferably between 5 minutes and 20 minutes, the keratin materials are rinsed. The following example is given purely by way of illustration of the invention.

EXAMPLE:

A fresh kaki was cut into slices, which were dried.

From the dried fruit slices were prepared capsules containing 4 g of dried fruit, which were extracted in a commercial espresso machine, at a pressure of 15 bar in the following manner: water through the capsule until an extract is obtained in the form of a liquid having a final volume of 50 ml. The extract thus obtained was then mixed with an additive, Polyquaternium-37 sold under the name SALCARE SC 96 by the company CIBA, in a weight ratio of 24 g of persimmon extract to 1 g of additive.

The composition thus obtained was applied on the one hand to strands of freshly permed SA 20 sensitized hair, and on the other hand to freshly permed strands of natural white hair. Each time, 10 g of composition were applied to 1 g of locks. After a exposure time of 15 minutes, the locks were thoroughly rinsed. The smell of the locks of hair before the treatment, and after the treatment with the composition according to the invention, was evaluated by a panel of testers.

The odor resulting from thiols and ammonia was very strong on the control locks (locks of natural hair and freshly permed sensitized hair, not treated with the composition according to the invention). For locks treated with the composition according to the invention, the odor was largely attenuated on the locks of hair sensitized, and very low on the locks of natural hair. Two days later, the locks were rewaxed, and the smell was again evaluated in the same way.

The odor from thiols and ammonia was still very strong on the control locks. For the locks treated with the composition according to the invention, the odor was very weak on the locks of hair sensitized, and nonexistent on the locks of natural hair.

Claims (18)

REVENDICATIONS1. Process for the preparation of a persimmon extract, by percolation of one or more cosmetically acceptable fluid (s), under a pressure of at least 3 bar (3.105 Pa), through a solid or pasty substance containing one or more persimmon or pieces of persimmon. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the percolation is carried out by means of a fluid under pressure, at a temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C, preferably between 30 and 150 ° C, and even more preferably between 40 and 120 ° C, including terminals. 3. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pressure at which the percolation is carried out is greater than or equal to 4.105 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 106 Pa, and more preferably between 106 and 3.106 Pa, inclusive. 4. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the substance containing persimmon is in solid form. 5. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said substance is entirely made of persimmon. 6. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said substance comprises persimmon mixed with one or more adjuvants, and contains from 0.5 to 99% by weight of persimmon, preferably from 1 to 80 % by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture. 7. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the adjuvant (s) is (are) chosen from clays, salts, anionic, nonionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants, natural thickeners or synthesis, optionally modified starch, glass beads, silica, nylon, alumina, titanium dioxide, zeolites, poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin mono- or disaccharides, such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol or fructose, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates, talc, polyaspartic acid, calcium borosilicates, polyethylene, cotton, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), cellulose and its derivatives, superabsorbent compounds, magnesium or calcium carbonates, corn kernels, polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, silk, collagen, sawdust, powder of fucus, f arines or extracts of wheat, rice, peas, lupine, soya or barley, cross-linked polyvinylpyrrolidone, calcium alginate, activated carbon, polyvinylidene / acrylonitrile particles, and their mixtures. 8. Process according to a preceding, characterized in that the substance to be extracted is or is not and / or dried, in crushed form or not and / or dried, under 9. Method according to one of the preceding, characterized in that any of the claims khaki entering the composition in the form of whole fruit crushed whole pieces of fresh fruit forms a dried fruit powder. any of the claims percolation is carried out by means of one or more cosmetically acceptable fluid (s) comprising water and / or one or more solvent (s) chosen (s) among alcohols C1-C4, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols; polyol ethers; C5-C10 alkanes; C3.4 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; C1-C4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate; dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane; and their mixtures. 10. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said fluid consists of water. 11. Use, for reducing unpleasant odors remaining on the hair after and / or during a permanent shaping or straightening treatment, of a persimmon extract obtained by percolation of one or more cosmetically acceptable fluid (s) ( s), under a pressure of at least 3 bar (3.105 Pa), through a solid or pasty substance containing one or more khaki or pieces of persimmon. 12. Use according to claim 11, characterized in that the extract is used as it is. 13. Use according to claim 11, characterized in that the extract is employed in the form of a cosmetic composition consisting of said extract in admixture with one or more cosmetically acceptable solvent (s) and / or one or more additive (s). (s). 14. Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the solvent (s) is (are) chosen from water and / or alcohols C1-C4, such as ethanol, isopropanol. tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols; polyol ethers; C5-C10 alkanes; C3.4 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; C1-C4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate; dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane; and their mixtures. 15. Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the additive (s) is (are) chosen from anionic surfactants, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or mixtures thereof; anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrating agents; sequestering agents; the perfumes ; tampons; dispersants; conditioning agents; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents; colored or pearlescent pigments. 16. A method of cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials such as the hair comprising: (a) the preparation of a persimmon extract by percolation of one or more cosmetically acceptable fluid (s) under a pressure of at least 3 bars (3.105 Pa) through a solid or pasty substance containing one or more persimmon or pieces of persimmon, then (b) optionally, mixing the extract obtained in step (a) with one or more solvents ( s) and / or one or more additives, and then (c) applying the extract obtained in step (a) or the mixture obtained in step (b) to the keratin materials. 17. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that, after an exposure time of between 30 seconds and 30 minutes, the keratin materials are rinsed. 18. Method according to one of claims 16 and 17, characterized in that the cosmetic treatment is a deodorizing treatment of keratin materials, carried out especially during and / or after a permanent operation or straightening using one or more thiols .