FR2924581A1 - Cosmetic product treating method for e.g. eyelashes, involves exciting electroactive polymer actuator with voltage by using power supply to induce continuous displacement of keratinous materials when actuator is placed - Google Patents

Abstract

The method involves placing an electroactive polymer actuator (1) on keratinous materials. The electroactive polymer actuator is excited with voltage by using a power supply to induce continuous displacement of the keratinous materials when the actuator is placed, where the voltage is lower than or equal to 300 volts. The keratinous materials are maintained after excitation in a configuration in which the actuator is presented by gluing a maintenance file or applying a film-forming composition on the keratinous materials. Independent claims are also included for the following: (1) a method for applying a cosmetic composition (2) a device to be applied on keratinous materials, comprising an electroactive polymer actuator.

Description

The present invention relates in particular to methods and devices for modifying the appearance of a person and those relating to the application of a composition to keratin materials. It is known to apply to the skin compositions having a tensor effect in order to reduce the visibility of wrinkles. The effect of these compositions may not be as durable as desirable. In addition, their effect is limited because tensor materials, beyond a certain contraction, are cracking. The voltage is therefore limited to small areas, typically a few millimeters.

Moreover, the tensors can only apply contractile forces. They can not give extension effects. Finally, their effect is neither adjustable nor adjustable. Therefore, if the new form is not the desired one, we do not know how to increase or diminish their effect. Cosmetic surgery can permanently transform the face or body. However, there are many situations where a temporary change in the appearance of a person would be sufficient, for example when participating in a show. US Pat. No. 6,937,893 discloses a patch comprising an electrostrictive polymer for acting electromechanically on the skin. An application to the treatment of wrinkles by exciting the polymer with a cyclic tension is disclosed.

Publication WO 99/56829 discloses bandages provided with ultrasonic transducers to accelerate healing of wounds. There is a need for new ways to change the appearance of a person. The invention aims, in some aspects, to provide solutions for temporarily changing the appearance of a person and in other aspects to propose new modes of action on keratin materials, for example for the application of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition. The invention is based in general on the use of at least one electroactive polymer actuator.

Electroactive polymer actuators are disclosed in various publications, including US 2007/0114116 A1, US 6,109,852, US 5,389,222, US 5,250,167, US 6,475,639 and WO 01/80284, for example to provide controllable catheters. or artificial muscles for prostheses or robots. According to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment method, comprising the following steps: a) setting up at least one actuator with an electroactive material, preferably an electroactive polymer, on keratin materials, b) exciting the actuator so as to induce a continuous movement of the keratin materials at least as long as the actuator is in place. By "continuous displacement" it is necessary to understand a displacement which is not cyclic, even if this displacement may be of non-constant amplitude in time. The displacement of the keratin materials can lead to a modification of the aspect of the observable person while the actuator is in place. The displacement can result from the application of a non-cyclic voltage to the actuator, of constant polarity.

Throughout the description, "cosmetic treatment" must be understood in a broad manner and includes including the modification of the appearance of keratin materials. The introduction of the actuator on keratin materials may include fixing the actuator by gluing or by other means such as suction cups for example.

The keratin materials may be chosen from the skin, the mucous membranes or the keratinous fibers, in particular the hair or the eyelashes. The excitation may be of electrical origin or other, for example light, biological, chemical or thermal. The actuator may for example comprise one or more compounds capable of transforming an external stimulus, for example a light radiation, a heat input or a mechanical stress into a potential difference leading to excitation of the actuator. For this, we can use one or more photovoltaic cells, providing, under irradiation, a voltage. In an exemplary implementation of the method, after excitation of the actuator, the keratin materials are maintained substantially in the configuration in which the actuator has brought them, by gluing the keratin materials with a holding film or application of a film-forming composition which by filming immobilizes the keratin materials. For example, using an adhesive strip, Scotch brand for example, an adhesive bandage, a lacquer, typically a hairspray, containing a resin-type polymer, a solvent and a propellant, a liquid dressing, an adhesive solution, cyanoacrylate for example.

After the application of this holding film or of this film-forming composition, the actuator may possibly be removed, if this is still possible. The actuator can also be left in place. However, the electrical conductors of the actuator can be removed. Prior to its installation on keratin materials, the actuator can be cut to a format depending on the keratin materials to be treated. The excitation of the actuator can be carried out in a gradual manner so as to induce a progressive force and / or a corresponding displacement, for example to enable the user to visually determine the degree of excitation of the actuator. actuator which is suitable for obtaining the desired result or for allowing a fine adjustment of the degree of expansion or contraction of the actuator. The invention thus also relates, independently or in combination with the foregoing, to a method of cosmetic treatment of a person, comprising the following step: a) exciting at least one material actuator, preferably a polymer, electroactive in a gradual manner, so as to induce a force and / or a progressive corresponding displacement on the keratin materials. The excitation of the actuator can be performed in response to the action of the user on control means, for example the movement of a button or cursor or the input of data on a keyboard or a touch screen. These control means can control an amplitude of the excitation voltage and / or an excitation polarity and / or an excitation frequency, among others. The electric excitation of the actuator can be at least partially automated, and be performed in response for example to the prior acquisition of at least one typological characteristic of the person, for example an image of his face or body or in response to at least one signal from a sensor, including a sensor carried by the person, for example a pressure, displacement, moisture, light-sensitive or other sensor.

The method can thus, in an exemplary implementation, include the steps of acquiring at least one image of the body or the face of the person, automatically determining a correction to be made by means of the actuator (s) or allowing the user to enter the desired correction, and automatically comrrander the actuator (s) so as to induce on the keratin materials a force and / or displacement to cause a change in the appearance of keratin materials corresponding to the correction sought . The method can be implemented to embellish the person, change his appearance, rectify asymmetries or age, for example for theatrical needs.

The method can also be implemented so that the force and / or displacement exerted by the actuator on the keratin materials tends to exert a persistent action after removal of the actuator. For example, the actuator can be used to locally tighten the skin, on either side of a wrinkle, to reduce the depth thereof and / or allow a tissue reconstruction in a particular configuration. The mechanical stress can be exerted for example on the skin during the night in order to make the wrinkle less apparent during the day. The actuator that is used in this case is for example an actuator that expands when powered electrically. The object of the invention is thus, independently or in combination with the foregoing, a cosmetic treatment process in which at least one material, preferably polymeric, electroactive actuator is applied to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, during a duration greater than 10 minutes, better 60 minutes, even better 3 hours, or even 6 hours or 12 hours, the actuator being applied for example during the night and removed for the day. Subjecting the keratin materials to a prolonged mechanical action can promote tissue reorganization, for example the reformation of collagen.

The invention also relates to a device for implementing such a method, comprising an actuator arranged to be for the user for the duration above, and the corresponding power supply. The force and / or displacement that is exerted on the keratin materials may also be aimed at performing a massage action, particularly when this force and / or displacement is modulated in time. The massage may for example aim to confer a feeling of well-being, to strengthen, to stimulate nerve endings and / or to promote the action of a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

In an exemplary implementation of the invention relating to particular aspects thereof, the electrical excitation of the actuator is effected by repeated cycles in order to exert a non-constant force and / or a reciprocating motion on the actuator. the skin. An advantage associated with the use of an electroactive polymer actuator is that it can benefit from the small thickness of the actuator, which can optionally be used to perform the treatment under clothing or under a masking film having the appearance of the materials. underlying keratin. The actuator may, in an exemplary implementation of the invention, serve to move one of the eyelids, for example the lower eyelid. An actuator that contracts during the application of a voltage is for example fixed at one end on the eyelid and at another end on the cheek. In another embodiment of the invention, several actuators are used simultaneously, and each of these actuators is excited to an individually controllable level. The degree of excitation of the different actuators depends for example on an aspect that is sought to reproduce, this aspect having for example been selected by the user among several. The method may comprise the automatic calculation of the electrical voltage to be applied to each actuator in order to deform the keratin materials to obtain the desired appearance. In another example of implementation of the invention, at least one actuator is used to act on the lower eyelid and at least one other actuator to act on the upper eyelid. Actuators are for example fixed on the eyelids at one end, just below and above the eyelashes, respectively. In one example of implementation of the method, several actuators are fixed at one end on the lower eyelid and at the other end on the cheek and these are contracted so as to obtain the desired deformation for the eyelid. In another example of implementation of the invention, an actuator is used which can contract when powered electrically, which is fixed at one end to the ear and at the other end to the skull, and the the actuator is electrically energized to bring the ear closer to the skull, for example to restore symmetry of the ears in case of detachment of one of them. The contraction of the actuator can be progressive, and one can maintain the ear in the desired configuration through an adhesive for example.

In an exemplary implementation of the invention, the actuator (s) are used to modify the appearance of the body or face before cosmetic surgery, in order to allow the person who will undergo the procedure and / or the surgeon to have an indication of the result of the operation.

In general, the actuator (s) used may be masked by a masking film and / or makeup, so as to be as little visible as possible, especially once the desired movement has been obtained. The object of the invention is therefore, according to another of its aspects, a process for making up keratin materials in which a make-up composition is applied not only to the keratin materials but also to an actuator comprising a material, preferably a polymer, electroactive or a holding film covering this actuator. The actuator (s) can also be initially painted with the color of the underlying keratin materials or have a rough or porous surface state allowing the application and maintenance of a makeup composition such as a foundation. for example. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a process for applying a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, to keratin materials, comprising the step of: excitement of a material actuator, preferably a polymer , electroactive to exert a force and / or move the keratin materials in the application zone of the composition. Such a process can: favor the penetration of the composition, for example by effecting a massage action of the keratin materials in the zone of application of the composition, and / or facilitate the renewal of the composition, at the interface with the keratin materials, and / or exerting a pressure tending to force the penetration of the composition into the keratin materials, and / or to make the contour of the zone of application less clear, which may be useful in the case of application of a foundation or self-tanner, for example.

In some applications, the movement of the actuator may be reciprocating, the frequency of extensions / contractions of the actuator being for example between 1 per minute and 500 per second. The composition may be applied to the keratin materials before the actuator is brought into contact with them. Alternatively, the composition is deposited on the actuator and the latter is applied to the keratin materials. The actuator may also include at least one opening or channel for bringing the composition to the keratin materials, while the actuator is in place. The actuator may, if necessary, be pre-impregnated with the composition to be applied and packaged in a receptacle for the preservation of the composition, for example a sealed receptacle. When the actuator is excited, the latter may or may not be fixed to the keratin materials. For a massage action or scrubbing and / or application of a composition, a contact of the actuator with the keratin materials without attachment to the latter may suffice. The actuator is then for example held by hand by the user or maintained by suitable means against keratin materials. The actuator can be integrated in a garment, the device for supplying the electrical stimulation voltage of the actuator being for example also integrated into the garment. One or more actuator (s) can be integrated into a patch or mask to be placed on the face, a belt to arrange around the waist or thighs or pants or pants. When the actuator is intended to exert a massage or scrubbing action and / or to apply to the application of a composition, the skin contact surface, set in motion by the actuator, may be flocked or defined by a foam, a woven or nonwoven, optionally impregnated (e) by the composition. The contact surface may be slightly abrasive if necessary, in order to achieve a dermabrasion. Another object of the invention is, according to another of its aspects, a kit comprising: at least one material actuator, preferably polymer, electroactive; at least one composition to be applied to keratin materials, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a kit comprising: at least one material actuator, preferably a polymer, electroactive, at least one holding film or a film-forming composition to be applied to the materials keratin to keep them in a configuration where the actuator has brought them. The holding film is for example adhesive, comprising for example one or more adhesive zone (s) covered (s) by a removable protective film.

The adhesive is preferably hypoallergenic. The film may still not be adhesive and the kit may include an adhesive in a separate package for adhering the retaining film to the keratin materials. The holding film may optionally have the same appearance as the underlying keratin materials and / or be makeup. In all these kits, the actuator may be at least partially transparent or have a face having substantially the color of the underlying keratin materials or being makeup. Each of the above kits can be contained in the same packaging, such as for example a box, a box or a blister. The kit may contain one or more reusable or single-use actuators. This or these actuators can be arranged in a sterile individual package, if necessary. Actuators can be conditioned already connected to electrical supply conductors. The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, to a massage device comprising at least one actuator material, preferably polymer, electroactive, and an apparatus for electrically powering the actuator so as to induce displacements periodic actuator. The latter may be an actuator contracting or expanding in response to the application of an electrical voltage always having the same polarity but a variable amplitude, or an actuator able to contract and expand, depending on the polarity of the voltage applied.

The massage device may, where appropriate, be integrated with a garment, as indicated above, or with a patch or a mask. The massage device can be used while the actuator (s) are arranged under at least one garment. The massage device can be used before or after the application of a cosmetic composition, for example a massage oil, a moisturizer, a slimming or exfoliating product, a self-tanning agent, etc. The actuator can be arranged , if appropriate, for heating when electrically powered, either because of heat dissipation in the electroactive polymer or in one or more ohmic heating elements arranged in parallel or in series with the electroactive polymer or connected to a separate power supply.

The massage device may also include at least one Peltier effect component for cooling the keratin materials when electrically powered. The massage device may comprise at least one electrode that comes into contact with the skin in order to allow electrostimulation of the keratin materials in addition to mechanical stimulation.

The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, to a method of manufacturing an actuator, in which the actuator is formed by successively depositing electrodes and an electroactive polymer on the keratin materials, with the possible interposition of a barrier film between these elements and the keratin materials. The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing an actuator, wherein the electroactive polymer is molded or shaped hot, so as to take the form of keratin materials on which the actuator will be put in place. This can make it possible to have an actuator that best matches the shape of the region of the body or face that will be affected by the excitation of the actuator. The realization of the electrodes of the actuator can be done on the electroactive polymer thus molded or shaped hot, or alternatively the electrodes may already be present on the electroactive polymer when it gives the latter the desired shape. The subject of the invention is also a device to be applied to keratin materials comprising a material actuator, preferably a polymer, electroactive and a source of electrical energy, integrated in the device, for example a battery, which may have been produced by a printing technique. The battery can be carried by the same support as the actuator, for example a flexible film. Stacks made by printing are known from the Powerpaper company in particular. The device may be in the form of a sheet, for example a patch or a mask, with, where appropriate, a control circuit which governs the supply of the electroactive polymer. The control circuit comprises for example a system for triggering the operation of the patch once it is applied to the keratin materials. The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, to a sheet device to be applied to keratin materials, this device incorporating at least one material actuator, preferably polymer, electroactive and having at least one optical layer providing an optical effect, arranged to accompany a mechanical deformation of the actuator, and whose appearance changes as a function of this deformation. The optical layer comprises, for example, an interferential structure whose color changes as a function of the degree of expansion or contraction of the actuator, for example because of a change in the distance between diffracting patterns within a diffraction grating . The optical layer can define the outer face of the device.

After application to the keratin materials, the deformation of the actuator is for example adjusted so that the appearance of the optical layer corresponds to that of neighboring keratin materials, which can effectively hide a defect. Another subject of the invention is a device comprising: an actuator with a material, preferably an electroactive polymer, a sensor, a control circuit of the actuator as a function of at least one signal delivered by the sensor, actuator being arranged to attach to the keratin materials. The sensor may be arranged to attach to the keratin materials, and may be arranged for example to detect relaxation of the skin, the device comprising a circuit arranged to excite the actuator in response to the detection of this release in order to retighten the skin. The actuator can be placed on areas that may give rise to wrinkles, for example around the eyes, to delay the appearance of wrinkles. The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description, non-limiting examples of implementation thereof, and on examining the appended drawing, in which: FIG. 2 is a section on II-II of FIG. 1; FIG. 3 is a top view of another example of an actuator; FIG. 4 is a view similar to FIG. FIG. 3 and 5 show schematically and partially in perspective, other examples of actuators, FIG. 7 illustrates the use of actuators for acting. on the lower eyelids. FIG. 8 illustrates the immobilization of the eyelids by application of a film, following the movements exerted by the actuators of FIG. 7; FIG. 9 illustrates an alternative embodiment of the method, using several actuators for each eyelid, FIG. 10 illustrates the use of actuators arranged on the cheeks; FIG. 11 illustrates the use of actuators on one arm; FIG. 12 is a view similar to FIG. a masking film covering the actuators, - Figure 13 illustrates the implementation of the method for moving an ear, - Figure 14 illustrates the use of actuators to act on both the lower and upper eyelids, and FIGS. 15 to 22 are block diagrams illustrating various steps of examples of methods according to the invention.

Actuators The invention is based on the use of actuators with electroactive materials, preferably electroactive polymers, also called EAP actuators according to English terminology. By actuator electroactive material means an actuator that is able to contract or expand in at least one direction, thanks to the presence in the actuator of at least one electroactive material capable of transforming electrical energy into energy mechanical. One distinguishes among the actuators with electroactive materials on the one hand those said ionic, such as those based for example on the use of polyelectrolyte gels, ionic composites, conjugated polymers or carbon nanotubes, and on the other hand those said electronic, based for example on the use of piezoelectric polymers, electrostrictive polymers, dielectric elastomers or liquid crystal elastomers and conductive polymers. The electroactive material is preferably not only sensitive to electrical voltage or current, but also has a flexibility, for example having the mechanical behavior of an elastomer. A polyelectrolyte gel comprises, for example, a polymer gel formed of an elastomer matrix filled with a liquid. Ionic composites are for example formed of an ionic polymer-metal combination, being also called IPMC according to the Anglo-Saxon terminology, and comprise for example a polymeric membrane comprising an ionic liquid, covered by metal electrodes, so that the Application of an electric field induces electrophoretic migration of ions leading to bending of the membrane. The actuator may comprise at least one conductive polymer, also called CP according to the English terminology. A conductive polymer actuator comprises, for example, an electrochemical cell whose electrodes are conductive polymers, such that the application of a voltage across the electrodes causes a deformation of the cell, due to the ion exchanges within the cell. the electrolyte. Examples of conductive polymer actuators that may be mentioned include polypyrrole-metal helical actuators, polyaniline fiber actuators coated with solid electrolyte polymer and copper or polyaniline fibers coated with a polypyrrole film. The dielectric elastomer actuators may comprise a thin elastomeric film, sandwiched between two electrodes, the application of the tension causing an extension of the polymeric film in all the dimensions of the plane. The dielectric elastomer may optionally be shaped in one or more plies or in a winding, for example helical. In general, depending on the electroactive polymer used, the deformation of the actuator can be reversible or not, take place essentially in elongation, bending, contraction, in a direction, in a plane or volume. By reversible deformation, it should be understood that the actuator can move in a direction opposite to that induced by the application of the electrical voltage, either spontaneously thanks to an elastic restoring force, for example related to the elasticity of the polymer itself electroactive or other active component of the actuator, for example an electrode. This restoring force can still be generated by an elastic return member integrated into the actuator. The reverse deformation can still take place under the effect of a reverse excitation voltage. When not energized electrically, the actuator can be used as a force or displacement sensor, for example. In this case, the current or potential difference created by the actuator can be analyzed to evaluate the mechanical stresses it perceives. This information can be used to monitor the skin and / or to trigger the activity of the actuator. When it is in film form, the thickness of the electroactive polymer is for example between 1 m and 2 mm, the electroactive polymer may have undergone, if necessary, a monoxial or biaxial stretching. The electroactive polymer is for example disposed between two electrodes to which is applied a potential difference. The electrodes may be made of various materials, such as, for example, graphite, carbon black, colloidal suspensions, thin layers of metals including, for example, gold and silver, electrically conductive polymers, such as examples of polymers comprising a charge of conductive particles, for example silver or carbon, or ionic conductive polymers. The choice of the material of the electrode may depend on the electroactive polymer. The electrodes may cover an entire face of the electroactive polymer or alternatively only a region thereof. An actuator may, where appropriate, have a plurality of electrodes for exciting corresponding regions of the electroactive polymer. These electrodes can be arranged in a network, for example. The electrodes can be electrically isolated from keratin materials. Alternatively, at least one electrode may come into contact with the keratin materials, for example in order to be able to electrostimulate simultaneously or not with the excitation of the electroactive polymer. The electrical voltage suitable for the activation of the electroactive polymer may depend on the properties of the this one, especially its dielectric constant and its dimensions. For example, the electrical excitation voltage may be less than or equal to 300 V, better still 150 V, being for example between 0 and 25 V. Preferably, this voltage is a low voltage compatible with its presence in the vicinity of the materials. keratin. If higher voltages are used, it is ensured that the current can not exceed a certain limit, and the system is advantageously provided in case of electrical leakage. The response of the actuator to the excitation voltage can be a linear response or not. The actuator may comprise at least one barrier film between the active structure of the actuator and the outside, for example to prevent contact of the keratin materials with the active chemical compounds of the actuator. This barrier film is for example a film of a thermoplastic material, for example a polyolefin, PVC, polyester, polyamide, polyurethane, cellulose, etc. The actuator may optionally be contained entirely in a sealed envelope, for example a envelope formed of a thin film of a thermoplastic material sealed at its periphery, for example a transparent thermoplastic material.

The barrier film may have, where appropriate, the color of the keratin materials or be makeup. The fixing of the actuator on the keratin materials can be carried out in various ways, for example by gluing. The attachment zones can be superimposed on the electroactive polymer or, alternatively, the attachment zones can be offset, the actuator transmitting the force or the displacement via one or more wire (s) or film (s) or the like. transmission members arranged in the extension of the actuator. The barrier film may be adhesive, for example being coated with a protective film prior to use. Alternatively, this film may be adhered by means of an extemporaneously applied adhesive. The actuator may comprise a stack of layers comprising several layers of electroactive polymers in order to multiply the mechanical forces. Figures 1 and 2 show an example of an actuator 1 that can be used in the invention.

This actuator 1 is in the general form of a strip and retracts when applying a voltage.

The actuator 1 illustrated in these figures comprises a membrane 10 of an ion exchange polymer, for example a perfluorinated polymer such as copolymers of tetrafluoroethylene and perfluorinated vinyl ether having groups ùSO 3 H or ùCO 2 H, sold by the company Dupont under the Nafion brand.

The ionic conductive polymer membrane 10 may be covered on each of its faces with a layer 11 of conductive polymer, for example polyaniline. This conductive polymer may be covered with a layer 12 of solid electrolyte, for example a sulphate salt. The active structure 14 thus formed can be covered, on at least one face, with a protective film 15 which is for example fixed at two opposite ends 16 and 17 to the structure 14 by means of an adhesive 18. Such an actuator is for example realized as follows. EXAMPLE 1 A film of Nafion 117 (Dupont Co Company) 0.15 mm thick, 10 mm wide and 30 mm long is immersed for 30 minutes in ethyl alcohol containing 2% of a solid electrolyte, potassium sulphate, for example. After immersion, the film is removed and allowed to dry. The polyaniline layers are deposited by immersing the film in an organic solution (n-methylpyrrolidone) of polyaniline. The film was allowed to dry at 60 ° C for 5 hours to remove the solvent. The film is then covered with a solid electrolyte layer following the same procedure as above. The solid electrolyte layer completely covers the polyaniline film. FIG. 3 shows another example of an actuator, which is intended to work in extension, and which comprises, for example, a dielectric-type electroactive polymer 20 covered on its two faces, in a central zone 21 providing a free peripheral edge 23, an electrically conductive greasy compound 24. The actuator can be covered on both sides with metal electrodes, for example copper, coming into contact with the compound 24 and a flexible film forming a barrier, glued on the edge 23. A barrier film covers the active structure of the actuator and can be used to transmit the extension of the actuator to the keratin materials, being glued on them.

In the absence of a barrier film, the actuator can be attached directly to the active structure, for example by the border 23, to the keratin materials. Such an actuator can be made as follows. Example 2 A material comprising a mixture of dielectric silicone elastomer with dispersed titanium oxide is produced. In this, one follows the method described in the article IEEE Transactions on dielectrics and electrical insulation, Vol 12, No. 4, 2005. The dielectric silicone (reference Cine-skin A / B / C 50% silicone, Burman industries, USA) is mixed with titanium oxide (30% by weight) (Titanio Biossiolote 488257, Carlo Erba Italy), pre-dried at 100 ° C. It is dispersed by stirring and the crosslinking freezes the mixture at rest in the form of a film of 1 mm thick by 50 mm side. This material is then coated on both sides with the Nyogel 755G conductive and greasy compound, Technolube seal, USA, with a 40 mm square.

The flat copper electrodes 2 mm wide and 200 m thick connect the two conductive layers to the voltage generator. The actuator thus formed is then covered with a flexible plastic film forming barrier on both sides, this film covering the entire surface and being glued only on the edges. The flat electrodes are also covered with the same insulating film. In the embodiment of Figure 4, the layer of conductive fat compound is deposited so as to provide reserves 25, also called islands, on which the electrical insulating barrier film can be glued. This or these islets are for example in a number between 1 and 20.

The presence of the islets may make it possible to transmit more uniformly the extension of the electroactive polymer to the barrier film, and to the keratin materials on which this film is fixed. The actuator can still, as illustrated in Figure 5, be filiform. The actuator comprises, for example, a core 30 of an electroconductive polymer, for example a doped polyaniline core, covered with a material serving as a solid electrolyte matrix 31, one of the electrodes being for example in the form of a wire 32, for example copper, spirally wound on the sheath 31. The other arrives on the polyaniline core. Such an actuator can be made as follows. Example 3 The procedure described in the article All Polymer Actuators for Microsystems by A. Mazzoldi et al. Reference: Proceedings of the 3rd Italian Conference on Sensors and Microsystems, World Scientific Publication 1999. Di Natale and D'Amico Editors. Pages 345 to 350. In this example, the actuator comprises a doped polyaniline core, covered with a sheath of a solid electrolytic matrix material, namely a mixture of propylene carbonate, ethylene carbonate, polyacrylonitrile and copper perchlorate in respective proportions 8%, 38%, 13% and 11%. The whole is covered with a copper filament that spirals around the sheath. The actuator can also, as illustrated in FIG. 6, have a helical shape, for example in the form of a ribbon 40 molded in an elastomeric polymer with a helical shape, covered on two opposite faces with a material 41 serving as a electrode itself covered with an insulator. The realization of such an actuator can be done for example as follows. Example 4 An elastomeric silicone is made, for example TC 5005, A / B-C, BJB Enterprises Inc. in the USA. It is molded and cut in the form of a helical coil, as described in the article Smart Structures and Materials 2005: Electroactive Polymers Actuators and Devices, edited by Yoseph Bar-Cohen. Proceedings of SPIE Vol. 5759, page 65, incorporated by reference. A material serving as an electrode, for example a mixture of carbon black in a silicone, is applied to two sides of the helicoidal coil. The whole is covered with an insulator, for example a varnish. In the end, we obtain a globally cylindrical actuator. Applications According to the invention, one or more electroactive polymer actuator (s) can be used on various regions of the body and the face.

As illustrated in FIG. 15, an exemplary method according to the invention may comprise a step 100 of placing one or more actuators on the region (s) concerned of the body or face . This installation can be carried out by the person himself or by trained personnel for this purpose, for example in a beauty institute. The actuator (s) can be fixed on keratinous materials, especially glued on them. The actuator (s) may also not be glued (s) directly on the keratin materials, but simply maintained (s) to their contact.

In the case of a bonding on keratin materials, the bonding may be provided by a hypoallergenic adhesive preferably which is deposited on the keratin materials and / or the actuator at the time of its introduction. Alternatively, the adhesive may already be present on the actuator, being for example a pressure-sensitive adhesive, covered before the use of a removable protective film. When the actuator (s) are simply held (s) against the keratin materials without being glued on, this maintenance can be provided for example by a garment or bandage. Fixing the actuator on keratin materials may allow to exert on them a force tending to stretch, wrinkle or bend the keratin materials, or to exert pressure on them. The force exerted may aim to modify the appearance of the keratin materials, in particular to move the keratin materials, for example the skin or the flesh, over a distance of, for example, between 0.2 mm and 4 cm, better still 0.5 mm to 1 mm. cm.

The movement may be aimed at stretching the skin, for example to reduce the appearance of a wrinkle or other defect such as, for example, orange peel or a fatty bead. The displacement may be aimed at fighting against ptosis for example. The movement can still be exerted on the hair, for example to fight against an ear.

When the actuator is attached to the keratin materials, it can still be used to exert a massage action or exfoliation.

When the actuator or actuators are simply held against the keratin materials, without being directly attached thereto, the excitation of the actuator or actuators may for example be intended to exert a massage action through a relative movement between the actuator and the underlying keratin materials and / or for the purpose of exerting friction, this massage action or this friction being able to assist in the penetration of an active ingredient or a cosmetic composition or to perform a scrubbing action keratin materials. Several actuators can be excited sequentially to perform a massage, these actuators being for example arranged side by side, being integral or not with the same support. At least one actuator may be applied to or attached at least temporarily to an eyelid, including the lower or upper eyelid, forehead, cheeks, lips, neck, arm. torso, belly, breasts, buttocks,. a leg. The implementation of an actuator on the face may be used to change the appearance of the latter. In this case, preferably, the actuator will be small and not very visible, being for example at least partially transparent or covered with a masking film of the same color as the keratin materials, or even having a face having the same color as the keratin materials. Returning to FIG. 15, the installation of the actuator (s) is followed by a step 110 of excitation, which can be carried out by means of an apparatus delivering a suitable electrical voltage, this apparatus being arranged for example at side of the person during the use of the actuator or alternatively being carried by the person, the apparatus comprising for example fastening means on the person such as for example a belt or a fastener for attachment to a belt .

The apparatus may comprise an autonomous source of electrical energy, for example one or more cells or a battery, or alternatively be arranged to be powered by the mains. The power supply of the actuator can still be present on the same support as the actuator, as indicated above. The excitation of the actuator can be performed with a single polarity, the potential difference being higher or lower depending on the displacement to be induced. Depending on the actuator used, the excitation can also be performed with an alternating voltage, the polarity of which changes periodically, which can make it possible to carry out a series of dilations and contractions of the actuator or flexures in alternating directions. Several actuators can be excited to combine their efforts and induce greater displacement or stronger traction.

The actuator can be gradually powered to induce a gradual displacement and a resultant gradual change in the area of the body to which it is applied, to allow the user to determine which modification is best suited to the result wish. Once the desired displacement has been achieved, a fixing means such as an adhesive film or a film-forming polymer may be applied to the region concerned, in order to keep it in the state where the actuator has brought it, which corresponds to step 120 in Figure 16. The holding means may be various, depending in particular keratin materials concerned.

When it comes to the skin, the holding means may comprise an adhesive film to be adhered to the keratin materials. This film is preferably as thin as possible, so as not to be an inconvenience for the person, and this film may be transparent or makeup, that is to say present on the opposite side to the keratin materials, a surface appearance for the attachment of the makeup composition, including a foundation. The holding means may also comprise a film-forming composition which may be applied in the fluid state to the keratin materials, in the state in which the actuator maintains them. This crosslinking or drying composition forms a film which adheres to the keratin materials and makes it possible to maintain them in the configuration in which the actuator has brought them. Once the installation of the holding means has been carried out, the actuator can optionally be removed in a step 130, as illustrated in FIG. 17, if this removal does not harm the maintenance of the keratin materials in the position where the user wishes to leave them. .

The user can possibly remove only the electrical supply conductors of the actuator. These electrical conductors can for example be very thin and separated by breaking or cutting them at their connection to the actuator. Alternatively, miniature electrical connectors may be used to connect the actuator power leads.

In a further variant, the power supply of the actuator is effected by means of a clamp which is applied to two opposite faces of the actuator, comprising corresponding electrodes. Once the actuator can stop being energized electrically, the clamp can be removed. The use of such a clamp is particularly suitable for actuators in the form of a film.

The supply of the actuator can still be carried out without contact, by induction, thanks to a coil connected to the actuator, for example formed by screen printing or removal of an electric wire or etching of a metal layer, on a same support as the actuator. In a variant, it is the actuator that permanently maintains the region of the body or face in the desired state and the installation of a holding means is not necessary. The voltage applied to the actuator can be adjusted by the user by acting on a control member of an excitation apparatus, such as for example a button or a slider. Alternatively, the excitation voltage can be determined automatically for the device used to supply the actuator or by a circuit board with the actuator on the same support. The voltage is for example gradually increased by the excitation device according to a programmable ramp. In this case, the user starts the operation and the actuator is excited progressively. The user can interrupt the evolution of the applied voltage when the desired result is achieved, for example by pressing a button of the excitation device. The excitation of the actuator (s) can also be performed after a step 140 of selecting a desired appearance, as shown in Figure 18. This selection is made for example from a screen of the excitation device, offering the user several aspects of the keratin materials according to different degrees of excitation of the actuator (s). Once the aspect has been selected, the method may comprise a step 150 for calculating the modifications to be made in order to obtain the desired appearance, in particular displacements to be exerted on the keratin materials. This calculation is for example carried out by a microcomputer from at least one image of the person on which the actuator (s) will be fixed and, if necessary, measurements made on the keratin materials, for example the skin. Once the calculation is made, the appropriate voltage (s) are applied to the actuators to induce the modifications sought in step 160. FIG. 19 illustrates a method in which the person wearing the actuator (s) is observed by a camera, at the step 200, and the image is analyzed at step 210 to determine whether the desired aspect by the person is reached following the movements induced by the actuator (s). The excitation of the actuator (s) in step 220 continues according to the analysis thus performed, in order to get as close as possible to the aspect modification sought by the person. The actuator (s) may thus be excited according to an iterative process and when the appearance corresponds best to that which is sought, holding means may be set in step 230, the excitation of the actuator (s) may then cease. The action exerted by the actuator can still depend on the response of a sensor, for example a sensor sensitive to a displacement of the skin. For example, the actuator may be excited depending on the detection of a movement of the skin, so as to counter this movement or control its amplitude. Figure 20 illustrates such a method. The latter may comprise a step 300 for placing a sensor on the keratin materials, for example a sensor sensitive to a displacement of the skin. Step 310 consists in analyzing the signals of this sensor in order to excite in step 320 the actuator in the desired manner, for example to counter the displacement above. The actuator can be used to exert pressure on the keratin materials, for example the skin, to facilitate the penetration of an asset.

The actuator can exert a constant, temporary or variable pressure over time.

The actuator that is used may in particular be an actuator that is capable of contraction and extension, depending on the polarity of the applied voltage. This may allow to exert vibrations on the skin and / or a massage action or spreading of the composition.

Figure 21 illustrates steps of a method of applying a composition involving one or more actuators. After step 400 of installing the actuator (s), the latter can be excited at step 410 in order to prepare the keratin materials, for example to stimulate the blood circulation, to exert a draining action or to perform a dermabrasion.

Then, in step 420, the composition is applied after removal of the actuator (s). FIG. 22 illustrates another example of a method, in which the composition is first applied to step 500, and then the actuator (s) are placed in step 510 in the region where the composition has been applied.

The actuator or actuators are excited at step 520, which can promote the penetration of the composition, and then are removed at step 530. Some examples of applications are described below. Example 5 An actuator made according to example 1 is used, for example, but other actuators retracting when a voltage is applied may be suitable. The actuator is bonded by the outer face of the barrier film 15 to one of its two longitudinal ends at the cheek, for example by means of a cyanoacrylate-based adhesive, and at the other end on the eyelid, for example half a centimeter below the lower eyelid, as shown in Figure 7.

The voltage can be applied by means of a device 3 making it possible to adjust the voltage applied to each actuator, comprising for example for each actuator a control means such as a button 60. The voltage varies for example from 0 to 3V and can be set to pull the skin under the eyelid, with a contraction ranging for example from 0 to about 3 mm.

When the user considers that he has the desired position, it can be fixed by depositing as shown in Figure 8 an adhesive holding film 5 on which, subsequently, a foundation can be applied, for example icolch 3M. This adhesive film may have been precut to the format of the actuator, so as to cover it completely. The electrical conductors can then be separated from the actuator. Example 6 In the example of FIG. 9, several actuators I are used to act on each lower eyelid. For example, according to Example 1, a series of actuators 1 30 mm long and 4 mm wide. In the same way as for example 1, each actuator comprises a barrier film, flexible, bonded to both ends of the active structure.

Four of these actuators are glued under each eyelid, vertically so that they are substantially aligned and parallel. The first arrives under the eyelid of the left eye substantially at the beginning of the eye. The second, a little off to the left, comes under the eyelid, 8 mm to the left of the beginning of the eye. The third, shifted to the left in relation to the second, arrives under the eyelid, 16 mm to the left of the beginning of the eye. Finally, the fourth, shifted to the left from the third, arrives under the eyelid 24 mm to the left of the beginning of the eye. With four other actuators, we realize the same arrangement, in symmetry on the other eye. Each of the eight actuators is electrically connected to an excitation device 3 capable of delivering to each actuator an adjustable voltage between 0 and 2.5 V. Each actuator is activated with different voltages to modify the outline of the eye according to the desired shape. Eight potentiometers 60 allow for example to individually adjust the voltage applied to each of the actuators. At the moment when the user considers that he has obtained the desired position, he fixes the eyelid in this position by depositing an adhesive film, flesh-colored, and the threads can be removed. Example 7 In this example, illustrated in Figures 11 and 12, the actuators are used to lift the flesh of a softened region of the body, for example the flesh of the arms and remedy the flaccid appearance of the arm. For example, the actuators 40 of Example 4 are used. These actuators are placed 20 cm long, 3 mm in diameter, around the flesh of the upper arms. The actuators, ten in number, are glued to one end on a hard part, for example, at the shoulder, and down to surround the flesh of the upper arm. Under the effect of the electrical excitation voltage, the actuators are stretched and raise the flesh of the upper arms. If necessary, the actuators can be concealed under a masking film 8, the same color as the skin, as shown in Figure 9. Example 8 In this example, one or more actuators are used to act on at least one ear of a person to restore for example a symmetry between the ears in the case of an ear initially more loose than the other. To do this, fixed as illustrated in Figure 13 an actuator at one end on the ear and at the other end on the skull, behind the ear.

The actuator is for example of the ionic polymer type, 0.5 cm wide, 2 cm long and about 0.25 mm thick, as sold by the American company ERI, with a voltage-modulable supply of 2 at 9V and in frequency, presented in a kit called Deluxe Complimentary Package. The actuator, electrically insulated, is adhered by a hydroalcoholic solution (ethanol) of polyacrylate resin, along the ear, behind it and on the skull. The electrodes are placed at the base of the actuator. The voltage is adjusted so that the ear takes the desired place, for example to obtain a symmetry of the two ears. In a variant, the actuator is made up by adding a pigmented cream of the same color as the skin of the user. In another variant, once the ear has reached the desired position, an adhesive retaining film or a film-forming composition, for example of the cyanoacrylate type, is positioned to hold the ear in its new position. Example 9 In this example, the fiber-type actuators of Example 3 are used to act on the lower and upper eyelids, as illustrated in FIG. 14. The actuators 33 are, for example, fixed respectively at an end just below the eyelashes. of the upper eyelid. These actuators can be masked. The actuators are attached at the other end to the cheek and the brow bone. By applying a very low voltage, for example from -IV to + 1 V, the activators can be stretched or relaxed and the shape of the eyelid can be varied.

Example 10 In this example, the actuator is used to apply a fluid composition. The actuator is placed example applied on the cheeks, as shown in Figure 10, or on the lips (variant not shown) or elsewhere. The composition is for example a composition comprising an anti-aging active ingredient.

The actuator is for example of the type capable of producing an extension, or even alternating movements extension / contraction obtained by varying the voltage is for example as described in Figures 3 and 4. The invention is not limited to the examples which have just been described. In particular, other types of electroactive polymer actuators may be used.

When applying a composition, it comprises for example any active ingredient currently used in cosmetics, especially anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, slimming, vitamins, ..., and may have various galenic forms. The composition may comprise a self-tanner, a pigment, a dye, fillers, etc.

The composition may be an emulsion, for example an oil-in-water emulsion. The expression having one must be understood as being synonymous with having at least one.

Claims (36)

1. Cosmetic treatment process, comprising the steps of: a) setting up at least one actuator with electroactive material, preferably electroactive polymer, on the keratin materials, b) exciting the actuator so as to induce a displacement continuous keratin materials at least as long as the actuator is in place. 2. Method according to claim 1, the keratin materials being chosen from skin, mucous membranes or keratin fibers, especially the hair or the eyelashes. 3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, the excitation being effected by means of a power supply. 4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, the keratin materials being, after excitation of the actuator, maintained substantially in the configuration in which the actuator has brought them by gluing on the keratin materials of a holding film or application of a film-forming composition. 5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, the excitation of the actuator being carried out in a gradual manner, so as to induce a force and / or a corresponding progressive displacement. 6. Method according to claim 5, the displacement of the actuator when excited being unidirectional. 7. The method of claim 5, the displacement of the actuator when excited being bidirectional. 8. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, the actuator exerting traction on keratin materials when excited. 9. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, the actuator deforming in extension the keratin materials when excited. 10. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, the actuator being excited with a constant polarity voltage. 11. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, the actuator being excited by a voltage less than or equal to 300 V. 12. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, the displacement of the keratin materials induced by the actuator being greater than or equal to 0.2 mm and less than 4 cm. 13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the actuator acting between two regions of keratin materials deforming differently when subjected to the application of a force. 14. The method of claim 13, one of the regions corresponding to a firm zone of the body or face, the other region corresponding to a flaccid zone of the body or face. 15. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 14, the excitation of the actuator being effected in response to an action of the user on control means. 16. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 14, the electric excitation of the actuator being at least partially automated. 17. The method of claim 16, the excitation of the actuator being effected in response to the acquisition of at least one typological characteristic of the person. 18. The method of claim 17, the excitation of the actuator being effected following the acquisition of at least one image of the face or body of the person. 19. The method of claim 16, the excitation of the actuator being effected in response to at least one signal from a sensor carried by the person. The method of claim 18, including the steps of acquiring at least one image of the body or face, automatically determining a correction to be made or allowing the user to enter a desired correction, and automatically controlling the less an actuator so as to induce on the keratin materials a force and / or a displacement to cause a change in the appearance of keratin materials corresponding to the desired correction. 21. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 20, the displacement caused by the actuator tending to exert an action on the keratin materials, this action persists after removal of the actuator. 22. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 21, comprising the step of locally tensioning, by means of the actuator, the skin on either side of a wrinkle, in order to reduce the depth of the wrinkle. -ci.29 23. The method of claim 22, the tension being exerted on the skin during the night to make a ride less apparent during the day. 24. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the laying of several actuators on the keratin materials. 25. The method of claim 24, the actuators being arranged to act on the same body of the person. 26. The method of claim 24 or 25, the actuators being arranged side by side. 27. A method according to any one of claims 24 to 26, the actuators being excited at respective excitation levels so as to deform the keratin materials according to a desired deformation profile. 28. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 27, the actuator being an electroactive polymer actuator. 29. A method of applying a cosmetic composition, comprising the step of: - exciting a material actuator, preferably polymer, electroactive to exert a force and / or move the keratin materials in a zone of application of the composition on keratinous materials, the composition being applied to said zone before or after the introduction of the actuator and / or being present on the actuator before it is put in place. 30. Kit comprising: - at least one actuator material, preferably polymer, electroactive, - at least one composition to be applied to keratin materials, including a cosmetic or dermatological composition. 31. Kit comprising: - several actuators material, preferably polymer, electroactive, - at least one adhesive compatible with its application on keratin materials, to fix each actuator on keratin materials and / or fix keratin materials in a configuration where they are left by the actuators, - an apparatus for electrically exciting all the actuators, each with an adjustable excitation level. 32. Kit comprising: at least one material actuator, preferably polymer, electroactive; at least one holding film or a film-forming composition to be applied to the keratin materials to maintain them in a configuration where the actuator has brought them. 33. Kit according to claim 32, the holding film or the film-forming composition having substantially the same color as the keratin materials. 34. Cosmetic treatment process in which is applied to the keratin materials, especially the skin, at least one actuator material, preferably polymer, electroactive for a period greater than 10 minutes, better 60 minutes, even better 3h, or even 6 hours or 12h, the actuator being applied for example during the night and removed for the day. 35. Apparatus to be applied to keratin materials comprising a material actuator, preferably a polymer, electroactive and a source of electrical energy, integrated in the device, for example a battery, which may have been performed by a printing technique. 36. Apparatus sheet to be applied to keratin materials, this device incorporating at least one actuator material, preferably polymeric, electroactive and having at least one optical layer providing an optical effect, arranged to accompany a mechanical deformation of the actuator, and whose appearance changes according to this deformation.