FR2920989A1 - Preparing composition, useful for the make up/care of keratinous material e.g. skin, and for coloring and/or homogenizing skin color, comprises fluid percolation under pressure through recipient and incorporation of extract in dry support - Google Patents

Abstract

Preparation of a composition for topical application, comprises fluid percolation under pressure through a recipient, preferably in the form of sachet or capsule, where the recipient contains at least a colored vegetable substance under the form of solid or paste, and incorporation of the obtained extract in a dry support. Independent claims are included for: (1) a process for the make-up or care of keratin materials, comprising preparing the composition and applying the composition on the keratin materials; and (2) a kit for the implementation of the process, comprising one or more recipient for percolation under pressure by fluid, or delimited recipient containing at least one vegetable or mineral colored natural substance, and one or more dry support.

Description

The present invention relates to a process for the preparation of a composition for the dyeing of keratinous substances, in particular of the skin, eyelids, lips or nails, comprising a step of percolation of natural vegetable or mineral substances. colored, and the incorporation of this extract into a dry support. The subject of the invention is also the composition obtained and its use for coloring keratin materials, in particular skin or lips and human keratinous fibers such as the hair.

The compositions according to the invention may in particular be in the form of a make-up or skincare product, and in particular of the face.

Traditional make-up products such as, for example, blushes, eyeshadows, foundations, concealer or lipsticks, improve the aesthetics by giving more relief to the face, eyes and lips, and intensifying their color. They usually contain pigments and preservatives.

In the field of complexion, one of the main expectations of consumers is to have a make-up unifying the complexion, while remaining invisible to the eye, to obtain the most natural effect possible. However, make-up products generally contain solid particles such as pigments, in particular iron and titanium oxides, which make them difficult to spread on the skin when it has relief imperfections such as enlarged pores, wrinkles or fine lines. In addition, the presence of pulverulent dyestuffs often results in an unnatural powdery effect that consumers want to avoid.

Moreover, the color of the makeup obtained after application of these compositions to the skin is likely to change over time and in particular to become inhomogeneous due to the secretion of sebum and / or sweat during the day.

Finally, these compositions, when applied to the skin, have the disadvantage of transferring, that is to say, of being deposited at least in part, leaving traces, on certain supports with which they can be placed. in contact and in particular a garment or skin. It follows a poor performance of the applied film, requiring regular renewal of the application of the composition. In addition, the appearance of these unacceptable traces especially on the blouse collar may exclude some women from the use of this type of makeup

In the field of lipsticks also, consumers wish to have comfortable make-up compositions during the day, having a good hold in the time of the color, and not transferring.

To overcome the problems of resistance of pigmented compositions and overcome the powdery effect associated with the use of pulverulent dyestuffs, it is known to replace the pigments with soluble dyes. However, some soluble dyes have the disadvantage of poorly preserved. In particular, they can be degraded by hydrolysis in the presence of water, by oxidation in contact with oxygen in the air or water, or in the presence of other oxidizing agents such as light and in particular UV rays. by photolysis or photodegradation. These coloring agents, when used in aqueous solution, can also interact with other active agents commonly used in cosmetics. This causes an unacceptable drift of the original color of the composition during storage.

In addition, it is also necessary to add preservatives to avoid problems of bacterial proliferation and improve their conservation. Now, we are looking more and more at making products without preservatives.

There is therefore a need for a make-up composition, in particular of the skin, comprising soluble dyes, not having the instability problems mentioned above and requiring no or few preservatives.

The inventors have shown that by associating a colored extract obtained by a method of percolation of colored natural plant or mineral substances with a dry support, it was possible to obtain, extemporaneously, colored compositions, more or less concentrated. by coloring, not requiring the presence of additional preservatives.

The method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain compositions which are more or less concentrated in coloring agents, and which provide a homogeneous makeup effect for the unification and radiance of the complexion, or an effect of releasing the lips.

The invention thus relates to a process for the preparation of a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises (1) a step of percolating fluid under pressure through at least one natural vegetable or mineral colored substance In solid or pasty form, and (2) a step of incorporating the obtained extract into a dry support.

The process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain, extemporaneously, a composition for staining keratin materials, incorporating stained substances of plant or mineral origin which are sterile and do not require a grinding step to be well dispersed. This is achieved by bringing into contact with colored extracts of natural plant or mineral products, and a dry support, this support preferably being free of preservatives.

The invention also relates to a composition obtainable by the method described above.

Since the composition prepared according to the process of the invention is intended for topical application and in particular for application to keratin materials, it is physiologically acceptable. Physiologically acceptable composition means a non-toxic composition that can be applied to keratin materials and is pleasant to use. By keratin materials is meant the skin, the scalp, the lips, and / or the integuments such as the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair. The composition may in particular be a makeup cosmetic composition.

The percolation step makes it possible to obtain a more or less concentrated colored extract. The composition obtained comprises mixing the extract obtained at the end of the percolation and the dry support, the latter may contain any other compound usually used in the cosmetics field.

The invention also relates to a process for the makeup or care of keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the process described above, and that this composition is applied to the keratin material.

The invention further relates to a cosmetic process for dyeing the skin, comprising applying to the skin a composition obtained by the method described above. The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the composition obtained according to the process of the invention, for the makeup or the care of keratinous substances, and in particular for the coloration and / or the homogenization of the color of the skin. .

The invention finally relates to a packaging device for carrying out the preparation method of the present invention.

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "dry support" is intended to mean a cosmetic support comprising water at a content of less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still less than or equal to 0, 5%. In particular, the dry support according to the invention is free of water.

Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Percolation process

The percolation process is carried out according to the usual percolation technique. A fluid is passed whose temperature is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C, preferably from 30 ° C to 150 ° C, more preferably from 40 ° C to 120 ° C and more preferably from 70 to 80 ° C. C, under a pressure of preferably at least 3 bar (3.105 Pa), for a very short period of time, less than one minute, through at least one natural substance, vegetable or mineral, in solid or pasty form preferably in solid form, and more preferably in pulverulent form. It is thus possible to use, in anhydrous form, unstable coloring agents in aqueous compositions, either because they react with water or with ambient humidity, or because they react, in the presence of water, with compounds or active. It is also possible to store these dyes in anhydrous form without risk of degradation.

The compositions prepared according to this process may have a limited storage stability, which is not a disadvantage here since the method results in a ready-to-use composition, intended to be used rapidly after its preparation, for example in 45 minutes after its preparation, in particular after cooling to an acceptable temperature for the keratin materials, preferably below 60 ° C., better still below 50 ° C. The composition may also be used up to one week after its preparation, depending on the rate of degradation of the coloring agent used. In this case, they should be kept at a low temperature (below 4 ° C).

Given the very short preparation time, the extracts obtained by the method described above and the cosmetic compositions containing them can be prepared "on demand" by mixing the percolation extracts and the dry supports according to the desired cosmetic properties. In particular, it is possible to choose the nature, the quantity and the composition of the natural substance (s) used to obtain the desired color, and / or to choose the composition of the dry support, in particular the additives or cosmetic actives adapted to the type of skin (mixed, dry or oily) of the consumer and her preferences in terms of texture.

According to another embodiment, the natural vegetable or mineral substances can be packaged in a ready-to-use device of the kit type, and it is not necessary to determine beforehand the concentrations of the natural substances in solution, this which limits the measurement errors of the user.

The present invention also relates to a process for the makeup or care of keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the defined method of percolation defined above, and that this composition is applied to the keratin material. Preferably, the keratin material is the skin.

The subject of the present invention is also a kit for implementing the process defined above, comprising: one or more receptacles adapted to percolation under pressure by a fluid route, the receptacle or receptacles delimiting at least one housing containing at least one a natural substance, vegetable or mineral, and - one or more dry supports. The container may be in particular a capsule or a sachet.

This kit makes it possible to obtain a composition obtained by the process according to the invention, the percolation extract being added to the dry support. In addition, the method according to the invention makes it possible to avoid the use of multi-compartment bottles, which makes the process particularly economical and safer for the user.

Percolation is a movement of fluid through a saturated porous medium allowing the passage of fluid under the action or effect of pressure.

The fluid may be constituted by steam optionally with liquid water, or by one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and / or gaseous solvents, in particular organic solvents, or else by a mixture of water vapor, possibly accompanied by liquid water, and one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and / or gaseous solvents. Preferably, the fluid comprises at least one of

water vapor may be accompanied by liquid water, and even more preferably it is water vapor may be accompanied by liquid water.

As organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The percolation fluid may also be mineral water such as for example Vichy waters (sources of lucas, hospital, large grid); the water of La Roche Posay, the water of Avène, the water of Vittel. One or more solvents can also be added, as indicated above.

The process of the present invention may be carried out using a conventional device for generating a fluid under pressure, at a temperature preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C., and even more preferably ranging from 30 ° C. to 150 ° C. ° C. Such a device comprises a pressure-resistant chamber, equipped with a heat block, and a fluid flow circuit produced to the plant or mineral extract.

According to another embodiment, the device comprises a liquid reservoir (s) and a pump for conveying the liquid or liquids to the chamber.

The liquid contained in the reservoir is the percolation fluid as described above.

A particularly useful device for carrying out the process of the present invention is an espresso type coffee machine. Such machines are well known in the art. For example, these machines are described in the documents ATA-168405, US-A-2688911, DE-A-32433870 and IT-A-1265636, and in the applications FR0650303, FR0650304, FR0650306, FR0650308.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the percolation step is carried out with a fluid at a temperature greater than 30 ° C., preferably between 30 ° C. and 150 ° C., under a pressure preferably of at least 3 bars, more preferably at least 4 bars, more preferably at least 10 bars and most preferably between 10 and 30 bars.

The natural or vegetable substance or substances, in solid or pasty form, may be used directly, in the device generating the fluid under pressure, in a container intended for this purpose. They can also be packaged in a particular packaging device of the single dose type comprising a closed housing delimited by at least one wall at least partly permeable to a fluid under pressure of at least 3 bar. Such devices are, for example, described in WO-A-00/56629, EP-A-512470, US-A-5897899 or WO-A-99/03753. These conditioning devices are generally airtight, moisture and / or light. 20

According to a particular embodiment, the housing is delimited by two sealed sheets. According to another embodiment, the housing is delimited by a tray closed by a lid.

These devices can be made from woven or non-woven materials, plastic or vegetable, for example, cellulose, metal such as aluminum or composite. Such devices are for example described in WO-A-00/56629, EP-A-512470, US-A-5897899 or WO-A-99/03753.

The subject of the invention is also a container, in particular in the form of a sachet or a capsule, adapted to percolation under pressure by a fluid route, the container delimiting at least one housing containing at least one mineral substance in solid form or pasty. The mineral substance or substances may optionally be in admixture with at least one plant substance.

As indicated above, the housing may be delimited by two sealed sheets, or it may be delimited by a tray closed by a lid.

Vegetable or mineral colored substance To prepare the colored extract, it is possible to use any natural plant or mineral substance, in solid form or in pasty form, preferably in solid form, and even more preferably in pulverulent form.

By vegetable or mineral substance is meant any substance belonging to the vegetable field (trees, plants, leaves, flowers) or mineral. Thus, the plant substance can come from woods, leaves, herbs, flowers, fruits, roots, barks, pulps, peels, berries, beans, plant seeds, and seaweeds. Likewise, the natural mineral substances that can be used according to the invention can be mineral powders, for example volcanic or non-volcanic rock powders, corals, pearls. As volcanic rocks, there may be mentioned polymetallic nodules.

By plant or mineral colored substance is meant a plant or a mineral naturally rich in natural dyes, that is to say containing in an amount sufficient to impart coloring to keratin materials such as skin or lips.

In the present invention, the term solid form is understood to mean a compound or composition in the form of a tablet (or tablet), coarse grains or powders, fibers, a sheet or a finely divided powder. in particulates, as opposed to a cream or gel composition which are flexible compositions. In addition, the term "powder" means a compound or a composition in the form of a powder (consisting of particles or grains). In the sense of the present invention, pasty form means an intermediate consistency between a solid phase and a liquid phase. The viscosity of this pasty phase is preferably greater than 0.1 Pa.s, and even more preferably greater than 1 Pa.s, this at 25 ° C with a shear rate of 10 s-1.

By way of non-limiting illustration of the natural plant dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: polyphenols and their derivatives, present for example in cocoa, coffee, black tea, carotenoids and their derivatives : such as carotenes (for example (3-carotene, lycopene, ...), xanthophylls (for example capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein, bixin, etc.), present especially in carrots, tomatoes, spinach, paprika, tagetes, annatto, ... - anthocyanins and their derivatives (eg pelargonidin, cyanidin and derivatives, peonidin, petunidin, delphinidin, malvidin), present in particular in blackcurrant, red cabbage, grapes, hibiscus, black carrot, elderberry, ... - betalaines and their derivatives (for example betacyanin, betaxanthin), present especially in beetroot, - santalines and their derivatives, present especially in sandalwood, - the chlorophyll and its derivatives, pr especially in grass, nettle, spinach and alfalfa, - curcuminoids and their derivatives, especially present in turmeric, - flavonoids and their derivatives (for example flavones, chalcones, aurones, hematoxylin, haematein, braziline, carthamine), present in particular in henna, logwood, Brazil wood, safflower, ... - alkaloids (for example berberine) and their derivatives (for example quinine or abrine), present especially in Cinchona officinalis powder, or the roots of plants such as the abrus precatorius, quininoids (alizarin), present especially in Garance, juglone resulting in particular from black walnut, indigotine, especially from indigo or pastel, 30 - riboflavin present in particular in certain vegetables, - fermented soy extracts, algae, fungi, microorganisms, - unsubstituted Flavylium salts in position 3 such that for example this described in patent EP 1 172 091, extracts of Gesneria Fulgens, Blechum Procerum, Saxifraga. And their mixture. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the plants used to color the composition are selected from Campeche wood, Brazilian wood, Safflower, turmeric, annatto, madder, cocoa, nettle coffee, black tea, and their mixtures.

The process according to the invention makes it possible to extract the dye directly from the plant or the mineral comprising it. Some dyes already isolated from the plant or the mineral can be marketed in solid form, for example in the form of powder. Such dyes in powder or paste form may also be introduced into the capsule, alone or in combination with a mineral or a colored plant such as those described above, to be extracted via the percolation method according to the invention. Such dyes in powder or paste form may also be introduced into the capsule, alone or in combination in admixture with one or more solid or pasty additives.

The colored powdery materials can be used alone or in mixture. They can be introduced into the capsules according to the invention in a sufficiently high content to allow the dry support to be colored. Those skilled in the art will adjust the contents of colored powdery materials according to the nature of the extracted powdered color material and the desired color intensity in the final composition.

Adjuvants:

The colored powdery material (s) may be used in admixture, in particular in the capsule, with one or more solid or pasty, and preferably powdery, additives which may serve, for example, to improve the extraction. Once the percolation is complete, these adjuvants remain in the percolator.

The adjuvants may be chosen from clays, salts, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants, natural or synthetic thickeners, glass beads, silica, nylon, waxes and pigments. , alumina, titanium dioxide, zeolites, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, mono or disaccharides such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol, fructose, zinc oxide , zirconium, resin particles such as silicone or silicabades, talc, polyaspartic acid, borosilicates including calcium, polyethylene, cotton, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), cellulose and its derivatives, superabsorbent compounds , magnesium or calcium carbonates, optionally modified starch, corn kernels, polydimethylsiloxane gums, polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, silk, collagen, sci wood pulp, fucus powder, flour or extracts of wheat, rice, pea, lupine, soybean, barley, cross-linked polyvinylpyrrolidone, calcium alginate, activated carbon, poly particles (vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile), in particular those sold under the name Expancel by the company Akzo Nobel, additional dyes, in particular in the form of a powder, chosen from water-soluble and fat-soluble dyes, of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, and their mixtures.

Fat-soluble dyes include generally organic compounds soluble in fats such as oils. Fat-soluble, synthetic or natural dyes are, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, red Sudan, carotenes (13-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin. By water-soluble dyes are meant compounds generally soluble in water and water-miscible solvents.

The synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes are, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. The dyes may also be chosen from juglone, lawsone, fermented soybean extracts, algae, mushrooms, microorganisms and unsubstituted 3-position Flavylium salts, for example those described in the EP patent. 1 172 091, extracts of Gesneria Fulgens, Blechum Procerum, Saxifraga and pigments obtainable by extraction with an organic or hydro-organic solvent of a micromycete culture medium of the monascus Monascus type.

According to a preferred embodiment, the dyes introduced into the capsule with the colored materials are mineral and / or vegetable substances.

When one or more adjuvants are present, the natural substance or substances are present preferably in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 99% by weight, relative to the weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, and still more preferably from 2 to 60% by weight.

Dry support

The dry support receiving the percolated extract may be in various forms such as: atomized powders such as those described in EP-A-938892, which are powders comprising modified starch and oily phase; anhydrous powders such as, for example, powders comprising modified starch, an oily phase, a charge, a surfactant, for example those described in document FR-A-2844448, powdery anhydrous compositions, in particular of the type Chamallows, such as those described in EP-A-966956 and EP-A-968702, containing a powder based on solid particles of expanded polymers and a binder. These particles are in particular copolymer particles of acrylonitrile and an acrylic or styrene monomer and / or vinylidene chloride; water-soluble anhydrous thin films, for example those described in EP-A-1,588,694; foaming tablets which may be more or less gelled, such as effervescent tablets based on bicarbonate and acid, such as sodium bicarbonate 40 and citric acid, tablets which may be used in particular for bathing; water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers comprising units with LCST or thermogelling polymers, which are in the form of powders, such as those described in documents EP-A-1,307,501, EP-A-1,355,625, EP-A-1,355,999, EP -A-1,363,964 and WO-A-04/006872. According to a preferred embodiment, the dry support is an anhydrous powder comprising modified starch, an oily phase, a filler, a surfactant, for example those described in document FR-A-2844448. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition or the dry support according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of preservatives, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and better still it is free of preservatives.

Pigments, nacres and soluble dyes

The composition according to the invention and in particular the dry support may further comprise at least one additional coloring agent chosen from pigments, nacres or soluble dyes.

By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

The pigments may be white and / or colored, mineral and / or organic.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition or the dry support according to the invention may comprise at least one pigment chosen from inorganic pigments.

These inorganic pigments may, in particular, be chosen from metal oxide pigments.

Examples of inorganic pigments are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, violet manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder. In addition to the inorganic pigments, the pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise organic pigments. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The composition or the dry support may also comprise goniochromatic pigments. These pigments have a relatively large color change with the viewing angle.

The goniochromatic pigment may be chosen, for example, from pigments with multilayer interferential structure and liquid crystal pigments.

In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise for example at least two layers, each layer, independently or not of the other layer (s), 45 being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF 2, CeF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3, Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, 5203, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2 , CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations.

The goniochromatic agents with multilayer structures are in particular those described in the following documents: US-A-3,438,796, EP-A-227423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-170439, EP-A-341002, US -A-4,930,866, US-A-5,641,719, EP-A-472371, EP-A-395410, EP-A-753545, EP-A-768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154; , EP-A-579091, US-A-5,411,586, US-A-5,364,467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4,225,031, WO 9517479 (BASF), DE-A-196 14 637. They are in the form of flakes, metallic color.

The multilayer structures that can be used in the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Al; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / AU SiO2 / Fe2O3; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; MoS2 / SiO2 / micaoxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3. Depending on the thickness of the different layers, different colors are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

As a result, the multilayer structure can be essentially mineral or organic. Depending on the thickness of each of the different layers, different colors are obtained.

The goniochromatic pigments with multilayer interferential structure according to the invention are in particular those described in the following documents: US-A-3,438,796, EP-A-227423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-170439, A-341002, US-A-4 930 866, US-A-5 641 25 719, EP-A-472371, EP-A-395410, EP-A-753545, EP-A-768343, EP-A-571836 , EP-A-708154, EP-A-579091, US-A-5,411,586, US-A-5,364,467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4,225,031, WO 9517479 (BASF) , DE-A-196 14 637, and their associations. They are in the form of flakes, metallic color.

The goniochromatic pigment with interferential multilayer structure may be selected from the group consisting of the following commercial goniochromatic pigments: Infinite Colors from SHISEIDO, Sicopearl Fantastico from BASF, Colorstream, Xirallic, Xirona from MERCK, Colorglitter from FLEX, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, liquid crystal pigments are described in EP-A-1046692.

Examples of liquid crystal particles that may be used are those known under the name CTFA Polyacrylate-4 and sold under the names HELICONE HC Sapphire, HELICONE HC Scarabeus, HELICONE HC Jade, 40 HELICONE HC Maple, HELICONE HC XL Sapphire, HELICONE HC XL Scarabeus , HELICONE HC XL Jade, HELICONE HC XL Maple by the company WACKER.

By "nacres" it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, especially produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica.

coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye including the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

The pigments and / or nacres may be present in the final composition in a content of less than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 10% and more preferably still less than or equal to 5% by weight.

In particular, the pigments and / or nacres may be present in the final composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 10% and more. more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight.

The additional dyes are chosen from water-soluble and liposoluble dyes, of natural or synthetic origin. 35 40

Liposoluble, synthetic or natural dyes are, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red carotenes (13-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin. The synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes are, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. The dyes may also be chosen from juglone, lawsone, fermented soybean extracts, algae, mushrooms, microorganisms and unsubstituted 3-position Flavylium salts, for example those described in the EP patent. 1 172 091, extracts of Gesneria Fulgens, Blechum Procerum, Saxifraga and pigments obtainable by extraction with an organic or hydro-organic solvent of a micromycete culture medium of the monascus Monascus type.

In a particular embodiment, the direct dyeing system comprises at least one natural coloring agent, especially as defined above, in particular water-soluble.

In particular, the soluble dye may be in solid form in the dry support according to the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition or the dry support according to the invention may comprise at least one dye.

Fatty phase The composition and in particular the dry support according to the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase. The liquid fatty phase comprises at least one oil chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition and in particular the dry support according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm). Hg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). The volatile oil may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, volatile fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permethyls. Volatile silicones can also be used as volatile oils, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 5 centistokes (5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and especially having from 2 to 10 atoms. silicon, preferably from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The volatile fluorinated oil does not usually have a flash point. As fluorinated volatile oil, mention may be made of nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane and dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition and in particular the dry support according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil, preferably cyclic.

The composition and in particular the dry support according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil in a content ranging from 1 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from from 10 to 60% by weight, and even more preferably from 15 to 50% by weight. The composition and in particular the dry support according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil. 15 20 25 30 35 40 45

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg).

These non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from fluorinated hydrocarbon oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varied from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, of avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, cassis, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,

synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane, paraffin oils, and mixtures thereof,

synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1000R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that RI + R2 is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl palmitate -decyl, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 atoms. carbon, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile oil may be present in the composition and in particular the dry support according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 % to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 30% by weight.

The fatty phase of the composition or of the dry support according to the invention may also comprise fatty substances other than the oils mentioned above, such as waxes or pasty fatty substances.

By wax is meant a solid fat body at room temperature.

The pasty fatty substances can be defined using at least one of the following physicochemical properties:

a viscosity of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poise), measured at 40 ° C. with a CONTRAVES TV rotary viscometer equipped with a mobile MS-r3 or MS-r4 at a frequency of 60 Hz, a melting point of 25-70 ° C, preferably 25-55 ° C.

As waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

animal waxes such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, butter wax of cocoa or waxes of cork fiber or sugar cane,

mineral waxes, for example paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites,

synthetic waxes, among which polyethylene waxes, and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis,

silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; mention may be made, for example, of polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, alkyl methicones such as C30-C45 alkylmethicone sold under the trade name "AMS C 30" by DOW CORNING,

hydrogenated oils which are concretes at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and 25 ° specific fatty esters C as the C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name "Kester WAX K82H" by the company Koster Keunen,

and / or their mixtures.

Preferably, use will be made of polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, carnauba waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil, candellila waxes, beeswaxes and / or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the waxes are present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition or of the dry support.

These fatty substances may in particular be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in consistency or in texture.

Thickening agent

The composition and in particular the dry support according to the invention may comprise at least one thickening agent of the aqueous phase or of the fatty phase.

The thickening agent of the fatty phase (or oil thickener) may be chosen from polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures thereof.

The polymeric thickening agent of the oils is capable of thickening or gelling the organic phase of the composition. The polymeric thickening agent can also be film-forming, that is to say, it is capable of forming a film when it is applied to the skin. The polymeric thickening agent for the oils may especially be chosen from: polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid chosen from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimer fatty acids and (13) an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, wherein the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least one monohydric alcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear carbon atoms and saturated, and in particular, copolymers of ethylene diamine / stearyl dilinoleate such as that sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG by ARIZONA CHEMICAL; Silicone polymers of the type: 1) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or 2) polyorganosiloxanes containing at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches. Groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions may be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof.

The silicone polymers used as structuring agents in the composition of the invention are polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type, for example those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6,051,216 and US Pat. No. 5,981,680. In particular, the silicone polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above and whose units capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged in the polymer chain. The silicone polymers may more particularly be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the general formula I: ## STR2 ## in which: R 4, R 5, R 6 and R 7, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon-based groups containing 1 to more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms in their chain, and which may be partially or completely substituted by fluorine atoms, C 6 -C 10 aryl groups optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, or polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not containing one or more oxygen atoms. of sulfur and / or nitrogen, 2) X, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen atoms and / or nitrogen, 3) Y e is a divalent alkylene, linear or branched, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to Cso group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or carry as 10 15 20

substituting one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 40 alkyl, C 5 -C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups, hydroxyalkyl C1 to C3 and amino C1 to C6 alkyl, or 4) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: in which - T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted C3-C24, trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and - R8 represents a linear or branched C1-C50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another chain of the polymer, 5) G, which may be identical or different, represent divalent groups selected from: - C OOC N (R9) C. (R9) N (R9) SO2 SO2 N (R9) O -N (R9) 000CN (R9) N (R9) CO. O O S - O C N (R9); N (R 9) C N (R 9) S O - N (R 9) C N (R 9) S N (R 9) C C N (R 9). NH C NH. and

O O NH NH C NH NH NH NH 10

where R9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl group, provided that at least 50% of the R9 of the polymer represents a hydrogen atom and that at least two of the G groups of the polymer is a group other than: OC and CO Li 6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700, and more preferably from 6 to 200. According to the invention, 80% of R4, R5, R6 and R7, of the polymer are preferably selected from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. According to an advantageous embodiment, the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are amide groups of the formula ## STR2 ## and ## STR2 ## In this case, the structuring agent may be a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV): R 4 R 5

Wherein R4, R5, R6, R7, X, Y, m, and n are as follows: ## STR2 ## wherein R4, R5, R6, R7, X, Y, m and n are as defined above. In these polyamides of formula (III) or (IV), m ranges from 1 to 700, in particular from 15 to 500 and in particular from 50 to 200, and is particularly preferably from 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100 and better still from 4 to 25, X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, especially 5 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly 10 carbon atoms; and Y is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain or may include rings and / or unsaturations having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and

in particular from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 carbon atoms. galactomans containing from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular with C 1 -C 3 and mixtures thereof;

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mineral thickening agent for oils such as an organophilic clay, pyrogenic silicas. Organophilic clays are clays modified with chemical compounds that make the clay swellable in oily environments.

Clays are already well known products per se, which are described for example in the book "Clay Mineralogy, S. Caillere, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson", whose teaching is here included for reference. The clays are silicates containing a cation which may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations and their mixtures.

Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as the family of vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites .

These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays are used which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials such as the skin.

The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Bentone ISD V by Elementis, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34 Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; 18-quaternium / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay. The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200", "AEROSIL 255", "AEROSIL 300", "AEROSIL 380" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL HS-5" , "CAB-O-SIL EH-5", "CAB-O-SIL LM-130", "CAB-O-SIL MS-55", "CAB-O-SIL M-5" by Cabot.

It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the company Degussa, "CAB-OSIL TS-530" by Cabot. dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720" by Cabot.

The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise the combination of a hydrophobic fumed silica and quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite.

The aqueous thickener may be chosen from: homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names Versicolol F or Versicolol K by the company Allied Colloid, UTRAHOLD 8 by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type, and the salts, in particular of sodium, of polyacrylic acid (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (corresponding to the name INCI sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) sold under the name LUVIGEL EM by the company, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN by the company HERCULES the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name DARVAN No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, sold under the name HYDAGEN F by the company HENKEL, - polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of the PEMULEN type, -1AMPS (polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company 5 CLARIANT, - AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type marketed by the company SEPPIC, - polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or otherwise) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS type sold by Clariant, 10 - and mixtures thereof.

As other examples of water-soluble gelling polymers, mention may be made of: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and quaternized cellulose derivatives; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; Glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulphates, and mixtures thereof.

The thickening agent of the aqueous phase or of the fatty phase may be present in the composition or the dry support according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight.

Cosmetic additives

The dry supports used according to the invention may, in addition, contain one or more additives conventionally used in the cosmetics field, such as surfactants, polymers, oils, gelling agents, solvents, fillers, fibers, chelating agents, actives, perfumes, filters. etc. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the or the additions envisaged.

These cosmetic compositions obtained by the process according to the invention may be in any galenic form depending on the dry support used. They may for example be in the form of aqueous solutions or gels, hydroalcoholic or glycolic, or in the form of more or less fluid emulsions.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions obtained by the process according to the invention are in the form of an emulsion, and preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. In particular, the compositions obtained by the process according to the invention may constitute a product for coloring the skin, having an embellishing and homogenizing effect for the complexion, or a lip enhancement effect.

These compositions have a pH of preferably between 2 to 11, and more preferably between 3 to 9.

The invention also relates to a particularly cosmetic composition that can be obtained by the process according to the invention. This composition has the advantage of being free from preservatives. A particular embodiment of the invention consists in applying the composition obtained via a device that does not require human intervention and possibly equipped with a cooling means.

The subject of the invention is also a method for dyeing keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the process as defined above, and that this composition is applied to the keratin material. The keratinous material is preferably the skin.

The application to keratin materials can be carried out for example by means of an operator or via a device which does not require human intervention. The duration of application can vary between 15 seconds and 1 hour.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are 40 percentages by weight unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLE 1 45 A cream of complexion with extracts of madder was prepared according to the following preceded:

We place 5 grams of a natural madder extract (root, in powder form). in a capsule and the capsule is placed in a commercial coffee machine NESPRESSO 5 (Magimix M 250). This powder mixture is then passed through the water vapor produced by the machine until a composition (A) having a final volume of 30 ml is obtained. The extract is collected in 3.33 g of a white powder having the following composition: Phase Chemical name% A starch carboxymethyl ether, sodium salt 52 26.7 methyl polymethyl methacrylate hollow microspheres B butyl alcohol oxyethylenated (26 0E) 4.3 oxypropylene (26 OP), hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylenated (40 0E) in water Macadamia oil deodorized 17 TOTAL 100 Phase A (powder) was previously homogenized in a blender ( mini chopper 10 household). Phase B is then added to the powder mixture and the whole is rehomogenized in the mixer. A white preparation in the form of a powder is then obtained.

3.33 grams of this preparation is added the formulation of colored extracts 15 previously made, up to 30 ml with manual stirring for about a minute.

A creamy composition of colored foundation is prepared to be applied to the skin to give a radiance of the complexion. The composition does not require the presence of preservative.

EXAMPLE 2 A colored fluid complexion of complexion with coffee extract is prepared according to the following formula:

4 grams of a natural coffee extract (roasted coffee powder) are placed in a capsule and the capsule is placed in a commercial coffee machine NESPRESSO (Magimix M 250). This powder mixture is then passed through the steam produced by the machine until a composition (A) having a final volume of 15 ml is obtained. The extract is collected in a beaker containing a rectangular anhydrous thin film having a size of 3 cm by 2 cm and having the following composition:

- Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 68% 35 - Glycerin 30% 5 - Propylene glycol 15%

A colored composition is obtained which is ready to be applied to the skin to give a tanned effect to the complexion.

The composition does not require the presence of preservative. 20 25 45

Claims (18)

1. A process for the preparation of a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises: (1) a step of percolating fluid under pressure through at least one natural colored vegetable or mineral substance in solid or pasty form and (2) a step of incorporating the obtained extract into a dry support. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the fluid is constituted by water vapor optionally accompanied by liquid water, or by one or more liquid and / or gaseous solvents physiologically acceptable, or by a mixture of water vapor optionally accompanied by liquid water, and one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and / or gaseous solvents. 3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the pressure is at least 3 bar and preferably at least 4 bar. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the temperature is greater than 30 ° C. 5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural colored vegetable substance is selected from woods, leaves, herbs, flowers, fruits, roots, bark, pulp, peelings , berries, beans, plant seeds, seaweeds. 6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mineral colored natural substance is chosen from powders of volcanic or non-volcanic rocks, corals, pearls. 30 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colored natural substance is used in admixture with one or more solid or pasty additives. 8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dry support is in the form of atomized powder, anhydrous powder, powdery anhydrous composition, water-soluble anhydrous thin film, foaming tablet, water-soluble polymer. or hydrodispersible comprising units with LCST or thermogelling. 40 9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dry support comprises at least one soluble dye, especially in solid form. 10. A composition obtainable by the process according to any one of the preceding claims. 11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is free of preservative. 12. A method of makeup or care of keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the process defined according to any one of claims 1 to 9, and that this composition is applied to the keratinous material. 13. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the keratin material is the skin. 14. Process for the preparation of a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises (1) a step of percolating fluid under pressure through a container, in particular in the form of a sachet or a capsule , adapted for fluid pressure percolation, the container defining at least one housing containing at least one vegetable colored substance in solid or pasty form, (2) a step of incorporating the obtained extract into a dry support. 15. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the mineral substance or substances are mixed with at least one plant substance. 16. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the housing is defined by a tray closed by a cover. 17. Implementation kit of the method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising: - one or more containers adapted to fluid percolation under pressure, the container or containers defining at least one housing containing at least one natural colored substance, vegetable or mineral, and - one or more dry supports. 18. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 10 or 11, for the makeup or care of keratin materials, and in particular for coloring and / or homogenization of the skin color.