FR2916629A1 - Cleaning cosmetic composition, useful e.g. as shampoo composition/shower gel, for skin, preferably face, body/hair, comprises primary anionic surfactant with cleaning action, and crosslinked polymer/crosslinked super absorbent copolymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Cleaning cosmetic composition for skin, preferably face, body or hair, comprises at least a primary anionic surfactant with cleaning action of skin or hair, and at least a crosslinked polymer or a crosslinked super absorbent copolymer of water retention type in hydrated state. An independent claim is included for an aqueous composition for shower, comprising one or more excipient (plasticizers), coloring material (pigments), waxes (jojoba oil or ricin oil), preferably in hydrogenated form with polyethylene glycol.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic cleaning composition of the

body skin or hair.

  The present invention relates more particularly to a cosmetic composition cleaning the skin, in particular the face, the body, or the hair, which can advantageously be in the form of a gel, and in a preferred form, in the form of a gel for wash the face, body or hair, including a shower gel. STATE OF THE ART It is known in the trade many gels for the shower. These gels generally contain one or more surfactants, especially of anionic type, the function of which is to provide a good cleaning action and to form a good start of foam and abundant foam.

  The main disadvantage of commercial gels is that they remove lipids from the skin which are themselves one of the essential factors for the protection of the skin.

  The use of these gels thus results in a more or less pronounced drying of the skin, or even generates irritation phenomena or unpleasant sensation of tingling, tightness, or even sensations of burning of the skin.

  Some solutions of commercial gels have partially solved this problem by adding other surfactants much less aggressive to the skin, thus decreasing the stripping and irritating action of the composition due to the presence of the main surfactants.

  This combination with less aggressive surfactants makes it possible to produce acceptable cleaning compositions such as bath mousse compositions, shampoos, liquid soaps, shampoos for babies, or cleaning products for sensitive skin.

  OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION The main object of the invention is to provide a novel formulation of cosmetic compositions that cleanse the skin, in particular the face, the body, or the hair, with a simple use and providing a better comfort effect. remarkable softness when applied to the skin or hair.

  The main purpose of the invention is also to provide a novel formulation of cosmetic cleaning compositions for the shower, presenting new and advantageous characteristics for this type of compositions. In particular, the compositions according to the invention may have the appearance of a gel of solid consistency, unlike previously known shower compositions.

  It is also a principal object of the present invention to provide such a formulation which may have properties complementary to skin or hair cleansing, such as a very gentle exfoliating action. All of these objects are achieved by the present invention. described below.

  SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cleaning the skin, in particular the face or the body, or the hair, characterized in that it comprises at least one anionic primary surfactant with a cleaning action on the skin or hair, and at least one crosslinked polymer or a crosslinked superabsorbent copolymer of the hydro-retentor type in the substantially completely hydrated state, the particles of which, in the dry state, are not hydrated, have a mean particle size of between 5 and 100 μm, advantageously between 20 and 50 μm, in particular between 20 and 30 μm.

  According to an advantageous embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cleaning the skin or hair, characterized in that it comprises, in addition to the anionic primary surfactant and the crosslinked polymer or the cross-linked superabsorbent copolymer, at least one second surfactant, called "secondary surfactant", may contribute to reduce the delipidating action of the anionic primary surfactant contained in the composition.

  The super absorbent polymer or copolymer of the hydro-retaining type is a crosslinked polymer or a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid, such as polyacrylates and their salts, in particular sodium or potassium salts, and in particular sodium polyacrylate. These crosslinked polymers or crosslinked copolymers are obtained by means of crosslinking agents such as polyethyleneglycoldimethacrylate, ethyleneglycoldiacrylate, cyanomethylacrylate, vinyloxyethylacrylate or methacrylate, the compounds of the family of diglycidylethers, epoxides, as is well known to those skilled in the art. and in particular from document FR-2 805 461 previously cited.

  In the context of the invention, it is preferred to use, as superabsorbent polymer, crosslinked sodium or potassium polyacrylates such as those known commercially under the names OCTACARE MS100 marketed by Octel, Carbopol Aqua SF1 marketed by Noveon, or AQUA KEEP, in particular AQUA KEEP 10 SH-NF, marketed in the USA by Kobo Product Inc.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinked type of sodium polyacrylate has particles whose average particle size, in the dry state, not hydrated, is between 5 and 100 μm, advantageously between 20 and 50 μm, in particular between 20 and 50 μm. and 30 pm.

  The average particle size of the non-hydrated dry particles corresponds to the D50 value measured by laser particle size distribution or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.

  According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cross-linked polymer or crosslinked super absorbent copolymer of the above-mentioned hydroentaining type is contained in said composition in a proportion of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In the context of the invention, it is possible to use an anionic primary surfactant which is usual for cleaning compositions for the skin or the hair.

  This primary surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of:

  the alkyl sulphates of formula ROSO 3 -M +, the alkyl ether sulphates of formula R (OCH 2 CH 2) nOSO 3 -M +, the alkyl sulphonates of formula RSO 3 -M +, the alkyl benzene sulphonates of formula RC 6 H 4 SO 3 M +, the alkyl ether carboxylates of formula R (OCH2CH2) nOCH2CO2-M +, for which R is an alkyl group comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 15 carbon atoms, n being between 1 and 20, preferably between 2 and 6, so optimal equal to 2 or 3, and M being an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, preferably sodium or potassium, or alternatively ammonium or an alkanolammonium, preferably triethanolamine, or else dialkyl sulfosuccinates for which the alkyl groups comprise between 8 and 10 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

  Advantageously, the anionic primary surfactant will be sodium lauryl ether sulphate, also known as sodium laureth sulfate, of the formula CH 3 (CH 2) 16 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2) n OSO 3 Na, n being on average 1 to 4, preferably 3.

  By way of example, mention is made of sodium laureth sulfate sold by Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG (Germany), in aqueous solution at approximately 27% by weight, under the name Texapon NSO UP. Another preferred anionic primary surfactant is sodium lauryl sulfate, CH3 (CH2) 10CH2OSO3Na.

  Such a primary surfactant may be used in a proportion of 3 to 30%, preferably 5 to 20%, and optimally 5 to 15% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the final cosmetic composition.

  The secondary surfactant may be either anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant.

  According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one secondary surfactant chosen from the group of surfactant (s) consisting of: - amphoteric surfactants of betaine, imidazoline type, aminoalkanoate and iminodialkanoate; surfactants of the hydrolyzate type of acylated proteins or N-acylated amino acids, acylated sarcosinate-type surfactants, acylated fatty-chain glucosides comprising from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, surfactants, so-called superfatting agents, of mono type polyoxyethylenated fatty acid glycerides, polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols and cocoamphodiacetic acid ethylenediamine derivative surfactants, of formula 2 below, wherein RCO represents RCO (CH 2): ## STR2 ## an acyl radical of C 10 -C 20 fatty acids, preferably saturated, in particular fatty acids originating from coconut oil, predominantly lauric (C 12) and myristic (C 14), X and Y are identical or different and represent a single bond or a C1-C3 alkyl residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group, R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a carboxylic group preferably salt in the form of sodium salt, and R2 represents a carboxylic or sulphonic group, preferably salified in the form of a sodium salt. Among the preferred secondary surfactants are:

  amidoalkyl betaines, wheat protein cocoyl hydrolyzate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium alkyl sarcosinates, in particular sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl taurate, C12-13 pareth sodium sulfate (2) decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, PEG-200 glyceryl palmate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and their mixture marketed under the name REWODERM LI S 80 by the firm DEGUSSA CARE SPECIALITIES (United States), superfatting agents such as polyethylene glycol derivatives of fatty acid glycerides, in particular hydrogenated PEG-200 glyceryl palmate and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, a mixture of which is marketed under the trade name REWODERM LI S 80 from DEGUSSA.

  In addition to their surfactant function, some of these secondary surfactants may be used as thickeners and / or foam boosters.

  In the context of the invention, it will be possible more particularly to use as secondary surfactant, an amidopropyl betaine, in particular cocamidopropyl betaine, sold by the firm Degussa (United States) under the name TEGO BETAINE F50.

  Such a secondary surfactant may be used in a proportion of 1 to 15%, preferably 2 to 10 Io dry weight relative to the total weight of the final cosmetic composition.

  The ratio between the primary surfactant and the secondary surfactant (primary TA / secondary TA) is preferably at least 2, more preferably at least 3. This cosmetic cleaning composition may contain other substances usually contained in this composition. type of compositions and selected from the group comprising sequestering agents, proteins improving the smoothness and the touch (powdery touch), thickening agents, superfatting agents. The sequestering agents may be, for example, an EDTA salt.

  Softness and feel enhancing proteins are, for example, hydrolysates of natural proteins, such as hydrolysates of silk proteins.

  The thickening agents may be, for example, chosen from PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coca / isostearamide (Promidium 2, Uniquema / Croda), a mixture of glycereth-90 isostearate and laureth-2 (oxetal VD 92), PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate (Glucamate DOE 120, Noveon), PEG-75 (Polyglykol 3350, Clariant), PEG-18 glyceryl oleate / cocoate (Antil 171, Degussa), poloxamer 217 (Puracare F77, INN), disteareth-75 IPDI (Dermothix 75, Alzo / Bernel), polyglyceryl-3 caprate (Tegosoft PC 31, Degussa). The superfatting agents may be, for example, chosen from a mixture of hydrogenated PEG-200 glyceryl palmate and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate (Rewoderm LIS 80), PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate (Cetiol HE, Cognis) and PEG-10 olives. glycerides (Oxypon 288, Zschimmer & Schwarz), dicapryl ether and lauryl alcohol (LDO cetol, Cognis), a mixture of meadowfoam seed oil and PEG-6 (Crealba Aquasol).

  Furthermore, in the context of the invention, it will be possible to use one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients suitable for the manufacture of an aqueous shower composition chosen from the group comprising plasticizers, fillers of a dyestuff such as pigments, waxes, oils, for example jojoba or castor oil, especially in hydrogen form with polyethylglycol, which are well known to those skilled in the art.

  In a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition may contain particles with exfoliating action such as rice wax beads, polyethylene peels (Peeling Powder) or natural exfoliators such as loofah powder or the like. 'Orange peel.

  For a shampoo or shower gel composition for the body and hair, it contains a conditioning agent, in particular a conditioner which is attached to the hair fiber.

  Preferably this conditioning agent is present in a proportion of between 0.5 and 5% by dry weight of the composition.

  The conditioning agent may, for example, be selected from the group consisting of sodium salt of cocoyl wheat protein hydrolyzate (Gluadin WK, Cognis or Protelan VE / K, Zschimmer & Schwarz), hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride (Jaguar c -17, Rhodia), TERCocoyl collagen hydrolyzed (Monteine V, Seppic), polyquaternium-7 (Merquat 550, Nalco), cocoyl PCA potassium (Protelan NMA / C, Zschimmer Schwarz), sodium PCA (Ajidew SP 100, Ajinomoto), niacinamide (Aquaderm SP, Crodarom), bis-PEG-20 dimethicone (SF 1388, GE Advanced Materials-Silicones).

  The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one cosmetically acceptable compound chosen from the group comprising perfumes, preserving agents, coloring agents, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, antioxidants, in particular a tocopherol, such as tocopherol acetate.

  According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition may contain various cosmetically active agents, in particular at least one cosmetically active plant extract, for example an extract of the Scutellaria plant or an extract of Ogon.

  Those skilled in the art can furthermore choose the excipients or the other active ingredients, as well as their concentration, so that the advantageous properties of the composition of the invention are well preserved.

  According to a second aspect, the present invention also covers the use of the super-absorbent crosslinked crosslinked polymer or copolymer as defined in the present description, for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for cleaning the skin, in particular the face or the body, or hair in combination with at least one anionic primary surfactant as defined in the present description, optionally with at least one secondary surfactant, as defined in the present description, and optionally again with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, such as as defined in the present description.

  The use of crosslinked polymers or cross-linked superabsorbent copolymers in the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a cleansing composition for the body, the face or the hair, the consistency of which is solid.

  Such solid consistency has the advantage over prior art liquid compositions in preventing the loss of a substantial fraction of the product at the time of use.

  Indeed, the liquid compositions which are poured into the palm of the hand by the user, partially flow out of his hand and are entrained by the water, for example the shower, before being able to be used for cleaning the body, face or hair, a disadvantage that remedies the solid consistency composition according to the invention.

  The user thus has only to take the strictly necessary amount of the cleaning composition according to the invention for application to the body, face or hair, without losing any amount whatsoever.

  In addition, the use of cross-linked polymers or super-absorbent crosslinked copolymers in the form of particles having the particle size indicated in the description has the advantage, when these particles are in the substantially completely hydrated state, of forming a composition. Having no abrasive action of the scrub type on the skin, but possibly only a very light exfoliating action, which does not impair the impression of softness and comfort felt when applied to the skin or the scalp.

  Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will become clear in the light of the explanatory description, which will follow, made with reference to the presently preferred embodiments of a cosmetic cleaning composition according to the invention, given simply by way of example. illustration, and therefore can not in any way limit the scope of the invention.

  In the examples, all the percentages are given by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition; the temperature is the ambient temperature; the pressure is the atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated. By ambient temperature is meant a temperature of about 22 C, plus or minus 3 C.

  EXAMPLE 1 ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION Cosmetic cleansing composition for the shower This shower cleansing cosmetic composition is prepared from the following percentage composition: a) crosslinked sodium polyacrylate, available commercially under the trade name AQUA KEEP 10 SH-NF . : 4% b) crosslinked sodium polyacrylate, commercially available under the trade name OCTACARE MS100: 4A) c) at least one primary anionic surfactant, for example sodium laureth sulfate, commercially available, under the trade name TEXAPON from COGNIS: 15.3% c) at least one secondary surfactant, for example an amidopropylbetaine, available under the trade name TEGO Betain F 50 from TEGO COSMETICS: 3.5% e) at least one cosmetic excipient, comprising: at least one preservative (mixture of parabens well known to those skilled in the art) about 1%. dye pigment: traces f) perfuming solution comprising perfuming product (s); This composition is prepared in the following manner: a) in a first step, 4 g of the above-mentioned superabsorbent cross-linked polymer are mixed in approximately 33 g of polyisocyanate; hot purified water, at about 65 ° C., for 1 hour, with stirring; B) in a second step, it is allowed to cool to about 40 ° C and maintained at this temperature; c) stirring the surfactants in the form of an aqueous solution containing them, so that the total amount of water of the final composition is about 73%; D) in the last mixing step, the cosmetically acceptable excipient is added.

  Finally, water is optionally added to make the complement 100%. It should be noted that according to one variant, the preserving agents can be added to the starting water.

  There is obtained a gel-type shower cleansing cosmetic composition which has excellent consistency, holds well and avoids undesirable product losses in use, has a very soft contact, provides a caressing effect. on the skin, the sweetness persists throughout the application. Furthermore, the composition according to the invention, which comprises the cross-linked reticulated polymer or crosslinked super-absorbent type of hydro retentor type, avoids or reduces the uncomfortable sensations of rough feel generally observed when using the currently known shower gels.

  The invention thus provides a remarkable improvement over the state of the art.

  EXAMPLE 2 ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION Shampoo composition The shampoo is prepared from the following percentage composition (% expressed by dry weight relative to the final composition): a) crosslinked sodium polyacrylate, commercially available under the trade name AQUA KEEP 10 SH-NF. : 4% b) sodium laureth sulfate, commercially available under the trade name ZETESOL® 270: 11.9% c) cocamidopropylbetaine, available under the trade name AMPHOTENSID B 4 F 2.5% d) PEG-9 cocoglycerides sold under the name Oxypon 400 2.5% e) cocoyl sodium wheat protein hydrolyzate sold under the name Protelan VE / K 0.9% f) at least one preserving agent, at least one coloring pigment, a perfuming solution comprising ( s) perfuming product (s) and one or more antioxidants, qs g) 100% pure purified water This composition is prepared according to the method of Example 1.

Claims (25)

  1. Cosmetic cleansing composition of the skin, in particular of the face or of the body, or of the hair, characterized in that it comprises at least one anionic primary surfactant with cleaning action of the skin or the hair, and at least one polymer crosslinked or a super-absorbent reticulated copolymer of the hydro-retentor type in the substantially completely hydrated state.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the cross-linked polymer or the cross-linked superabsorbent copolymer is present in the form of particles having a mean particle size in the dry state, not hydrated, of between 5 and 100 μm, advantageously between 20 and 50 μm, in particular between 20 and 30 μm.   3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the cross-linked polymer or crosslinked super absorbent copolymer hydro retentive type above is contained in said composition in an amount of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably 2% 10% by weight, and more preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   4. Composition according to claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the crosslinked polymer is a crosslinked polyacrylate of sodium or potassium.   5. Composition according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the crosslinked polymer or the crosslinked copolymer is obtained by means of at least one crosslinking agent such as ethylene glycol diacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, cyanomethylacrylate, vinyloxyethylacrylate or methacrylate, a compound from the family of diglycidyl ethers, an epoxy compound.   6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the primary anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: alkyl sulfates of formula ROS03-M +, alkyl ether sulfates of formula R (OCH2CH2) nOSO3-M +, the alkyl sulphonates of formula RS03 M +, the alkyl benzene sulphonates of formula RC6H4SO3-M +, the alkyl ether carboxylates of formula R (OCH2CH2) nOCH2CO2-M + for which R is an alkyl group comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms preferably between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, n being between 1 and 20, preferably between 2 and 6, optimally equal to 2 or 3, and M being an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, preferably sodium or potassium, or alternatively ammonium or an alkanolammonium, preferably triethanolamine, or else dialkyl sulfosuccinates, for which the alkyl groups comprise between 8 and 10 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.   7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the primary anionic surfactant is selected from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate and mixtures thereof.   8. Composition according to claims 6 or 7, characterized in that the primary anionic surfactant is used in a proportion of 3 to 30%, preferably 5 to 20%, and optimally 5 to 15% by weight dry relative to the total weight of the final cosmetic composition.   9. Composition according to claims 1 to 8 characterized in that it comprises at least one secondary surfactant.   10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the secondary surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: - amphoteric surfactants betaine, imidazoline, aminoalkanoate and iminodialkanoate; surfactants of the acylated or N-acylated amino acid hydrolyzate type, acylated sarcosinate type surfactants, acylated fatty-chain glucosides comprising from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and surface-active agents, said over-degreasing agents. polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol mono-glycerides, polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols and cocoamphodiacetic acid ethylenediamine derived surfactants, of formula 2 below, RCOùNH (CH 2) 2 -NùCH ù Y ùR 2 (2) - wherein RCO represents an acyl radical of C 10 -C 20 fatty acids, preferably saturated, in particular fatty acids from coconut oil predominantly lauric (C 12) and myristic (C 14), X and Y are identical or different and represent a single bond or a C1-C3 alkyl residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a carboxylic group of ference salified in the form of sodium salt, and R2 represents a carboxylic or sulphonic group preferably salified in the form of sodium salt.   11. A composition according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the secondary surfactant is selected from the group comprising amidoalkyl betaines, cocoyl hydrolyzate of wheat protein, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium alkylsarcosinates, in particular lauroyl sodium sarcosinate sodium cocoyl taurate, C12-13 pareth sodium sulfate decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside PEG-200 glyceryl palmate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and their mixture, superfatters such as polyethylene glycol derivatives of fatty acid glycerides, especially a mixture of hydrogenated PEG-200 glyceryl palmate and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.   12. Composition according to claims 9 to 11, characterized in that the secondary surfactant is an amidopropylbetaine, in particular cocamidopropyl betaine   13. Composition according to one of claims 9 to 12, characterized in that the secondary surfactant is contained in a proportion of 1 to 15%, preferably 2 to 10% by dry weight relative to the total weight of the final cosmetic composition.   14. Composition according to one of Claims 9 to 13, characterized in that the ratio between the primary surfactant and the secondary surfactant (primary TA / secondary TA) is at least equal to 2, preferably at least equal to 3.   15. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it contains other substances usually contained in the cosmetic cleaning compositions, selected from the group comprising sequestering agents, proteins improving softness and touch ( powdery touch), thickeners, superfatting agents.   16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the sequestering agents are an EDTA salt, the proteins improving the softness and the touch are hydrolysates of natural proteins, such as hydrolysates of silk proteins, the thickening agents are selected from PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco / isostearamide, a mixture of glycereth-90 isostearate and laureth-2, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-75, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate / cocoate, poloxamer 217, disteareth-75 IPDI, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, the surfactants are selected from a mixture of hydrogenated PEG-200 glyceryl palmate and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-10 olivesglycerides, a mixture of dicapryl ether and lauryl alcohol, a mixture of Limnanthes Alba and PEG-6 seed oil.   17. An aqueous shower composition according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it contains one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients chosen from the group comprising plasticizers, fillers of a dyestuff such as pigments, waxes, oils, for example jojoba or castor oil, especially in hydrogen form with polyethylglycol.   18. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it contains at least one cosmetically acceptable compound selected from the group consisting of perfumes, preservatives, coloring agents, antioxidants, in particular a tocopherol , such as tocopherol acetate.   19. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that it contains particles with exfoliating action, such as rice wax beads, polyethylene balls or natural exfoliants such as loofah powder. or orange peel.   20. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that it is a composition of shampoo or shower gel for the body and the hair, and in that it contains a conditioner, in particular a conditioner that attaches to the hair fiber.   21. The composition as claimed in claim 20, characterized in that the conditioning agent is present in a proportion of between 0.5 and 5% by dry weight of the composition.   22. Composition according to one of Claims 20 or 21, characterized in that the conditioning agent is chosen from the group comprising sodium salt of cocoyl wheat protein hydrolyzate, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, TEA-Cocoyl collagen. hydrolyzed, polyquaternium-7, potassium cocoyl PCA, sodium PCA, niacinamide, bis-PEG-20 dimethicone.   23. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that it contains various cosmetically active agents, in particular at least one cosmetically active plant extract, for example an extract of the plant Scutellaria or an extract of Ogon .   24. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 23, characterized in that it contains at least one cosmetically acceptable compound selected from the group comprising fragrances, preservatives, coloring agents, opacifying agents, agents nacrants, antioxidants, in particular a tocopherol, such as tocopherol acetate.   25. Use of a cross-linked polymer or a cross-linked superabsorbent copolymer for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for cleaning the skin, in particular the face or the body, or the hair as defined above in any one of the Claims 1 to 24, in combination with at least one anionic primary surfactant, optionally with at least one secondary surfactant, and optionally again with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.