FR2915374A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF POWDER - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising at least one pulverulent phase and a fatty binder, the said pulverulent phase comprising at least a first spherical solid particle having a refractive index of less than or equal to 1.6, boron nitride particles, and 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one lamellar particle.The subject of the present invention is also a process for making up the skin, comprising the application of said composition and its use to obtain a natural makeup veil and whose color effect is slightly attenuated with respect to the color effect of coloring materials alone.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition of

  skin makeup in the form of a powder comprising a high content of pigments. The subject of the invention is also a process for making up the skin, comprising applying to the skin of said composition.

  The makeup composition according to the invention is in particular a composition for making up the skin in the form of a powder, such as a powder of the face and body, an eyeshadow, a blush, a concealer product. More specifically, the invention relates to a powder for the face.

  Makeup products such as loose powders, blushes or eyeshadows generally comprise a powdery phase containing in particular fillers and pigments. However, some fillers such as talc, because of their opacity to light, tend to reduce the saturation of the color of the pigments present in the composition. As a result, the makeup obtained has an apparent color less bright than the color of the dyestuffs alone. The attenuation of the color of the makeup is particularly noticeable for eye shadows or blushes in the form of powders (free powders or compact powders) whose content is high, for example at least 50% by weight.

  It is also known to use as coloring material reflective particles such as metal-coated glass particles as described in application EP-A-1082952 or goniochromatic pigments with interferential multilayer structure or liquid crystal structure as described in EP application -A-953330, or nacres for their iridescent effects. These dyes produce original, intense, and different color optical effects from those obtained with conventional pigments such as iron oxides or titanium dioxide. However, if these original dyestuffs are formulated with opaque fillers such as talc, in particular when they are present in large amounts, the opaque fillers attenuate the original color effect of the product and the makeup obtained then has a diminished color effect. . Thus, the intensity of the optical effects of the dyestuffs is masked by the opacity of the charges. It is then necessary to introduce a large quantity of dyestuffs so that the colored effects (optical effects) sought are clearly visible.

  The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a make-up composition in the form of a powder comprising dyestuffs and having a color effect that is slightly attenuated with respect to the colored effect of the dyestuffs alone. The inventors have discovered that such a composition is obtained by using specific solid particles associated with lamellar fillers.

  The compositions obtained have, in addition, good softness properties when they are applied to the skin.

  According to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising at least one pulverulent phase and a fatty binder, the said pulverulent phase comprising: i) at least a first spherical solid particle having a refractive index less than or equal to 1.6, ii) particles of boron nitride, and iii) 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one lamellar particle. 50

  The subject of the invention is also, according to a second aspect, a process for making up the skin of the face and / or the body, comprising the application to said skin of a composition as defined above.

  The invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above to obtain a natural makeup veil, whose color effect is slightly attenuated with respect to the color effect of the dyestuffs alone.

  The composition according to the invention is in the form of a powder, which can be in particular a loose powder or a compacted powder (which can be dry-slaked or water-based).

Powdery phase

  The composition according to the invention comprises a pulverulent phase comprising at least a first spherical solid particle, particles of boron nitride and at least one additional lamellar particle.

  First spherical solid particles The composition according to the invention comprises first spherical solid particles having a refractive index less than or equal to 1.6 (in particular ranging from 1.3 to 1.6). In particular, said first spherical solid particles are non-deformable particles. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-deformable particles" means solid particles of sufficient hardness not to deform during the taking of the composition by finger or sponge or directly by friction on the skin. In particular, by non-deformable, it should be understood that the particles are rigid.

  Solid particles are understood to mean particles remaining in the solid state in the composition. Advantageously, the first spherical solid particles have a refractive index less than or equal to 1.55, in particular ranging from 1.3 to 1.55.

  The refractive index of a solid particle is determined by mixing said solid particle in a content of from about 1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the mixture with a liquid medium comprising an oil or a solvent or a mixture of oils or solvents chosen so that the mixture of particles and liquid medium is transparent, ie that mixture, when subjected to radiation in the length range of 400-700 nm wave with the aid of a spectrophotometer, has a direct transmission is equal to 40 to 100%.

  The refractive index of the particle is then equal to the refractive index of the medium making it possible to obtain a direct transmission equal to 100%.

  If the liquid medium contains a single oil or a single solvent, the refractive index of the solid particle is equal to the refractive index of the oil or solvent.

  If the liquid medium contains a mixture of oils or solvents, the refractive index is calculated as a function of the volume proportion of each oil or solvent in the liquid medium weighted by their refractive index. For example, a mixture of ethanol (which has a refractive index of 1.36) and phenyl alcohol (which has a refractive index of 1.529) can be used. The determination of the refractive index is made at room temperature (25 C).

  The first spherical solid particles may be glass particles. Preferably, the particles are solid glass spherical particles (microbeads).

  Such particles (microbeads) of glass are sold in particular under the names P2015SL, P2015SL, P2043SL, P2415BT, P2453BT and P2453BTA by the company PRIZMALITE, under the name SILIBEADS "by the company SIGMUND LINDNER, under the names Durasphères and Identisphères by the company MoSci Corporation, and under the denomination LUXSIL "by Potters Industries.

  Advantageously, the first particles have a number average size ranging from 1 μm to 150 μm, and preferably from 3 μm to 100 μm, and more preferably from 3 μm to 60 μm. In the composition according to the invention, said first spherical solid particles may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight. % by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight. 20 Particles of boron nitride

  The composition according to the invention also comprises particles of boron nitride.

  Advantageously, the particles of boron nitride have a number-average size ranging from 1 μm to 20 μm, preferably from 3 μm to 15 μm, and more preferably from 3 μm to 10 μm.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the particles of boron nitride may have a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.6, especially ranging from 1.6 to 2.0. Preferably, the boron nitride particles are lamellar.

  Such lamellar boron nitride particles are in particular sold under the names Ceram Blanche 1, Ceram Blanche by the company SPCI, PUHP 3008 and PUH 1030L by the company Saint Gobain or SOFT TOUCH BORON NITRIDE POWDER CC6058 by the company General Electrics Advanced Materials.

  In the composition according to the invention, said particles of boron nitride may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight.

  According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the first spherical solid particles and the particles of boron nitride are present in the composition in a content such that the weight ratio of the first spherical solid particles to the particles of boron nitride is between 1 and 15 and preferably 1 and 2.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent phase and a fatty binder, said pulverulent phase comprising:

  i) at least a first particle in the form of glass beads, ii) particles of boron nitride, iii) 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one lamellar particle.

  Additional lamellar particles

  The composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional lamellar particle other than the particles of boron nitride described above.

  For lamellar particle in the sense of the present application means particles in the form of sheets possibly laminated.

  These leaflets are characterized by a lower thickness than the largest of their size. Preferably, the ratio between the largest dimension and the thickness is between 2 and 100.

  The lamellar particles present in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from lamellar nacres, lamellar fillers and / or lamellar reflective particles.

  By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, in particular produced by some shellfish in their shell or else synthesized.

  The lamellar nacres may be chosen from white nacres such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacres such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with, inter alia, ferric blue. , carmine or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as nacres of bismuth oxychloride or bismuth oxychloride. According to a preferred embodiment, the lamellar mother-of-pearl is chosen from bismuth oxychloride, in particular sold under the name BIRON LF 2000 by the company Merck, mica coated with titanium, iron oxide or carmine, and their mixed.

  The lamellar nacres may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight.

  The lamellar fillers may be chosen from: talc, which is a hydrated magnesium silicate, and in particular the talcs sold according to the names "Talc Luzenac 00" by the company Luzenac, "Talc P3" by the company Nippon Talc; kaolin, which is a hydrated aluminum silicate which is in the form of particles of anisotropic form with dimensions generally less than 30 m. As 45 kaolin can be used that sold under the name Kaolin Supreme 1 by the company ENGLISH CHINA LAYS; mica, or alumino silicate chosen from muscovite, phlogopite, tiotite, sericite, lepidolite, paragonite, margarite, roscoelite, artificial or synthetic mica having a fluorine atom substituting the hydroxyl group of natural mica as well as the cooked or calcinated products 50 of these micas. The micas are generally in the form of scales having dimensions of 2 to 200 m, preferably 5 to 70 gm and a thickness of 0.1 to 5 m.

  preferably 0.2-3 m. As mica, it is possible, for example, to use those sold under the names MICA SFG70 by the company ASPANGER or MICA CONCORD 1000 by SCIAMA; lamellar silica, such as in particular that sold under the names SG Flake 3M by the company MAPRECOS or Chemicelen by the company SUMITOMO; - and their mixtures.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the lamellar fillers are chosen from mica, sericite and their mixture.

  According to one particular embodiment, the mica and / or sericite may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 80%.

  The lamellar fillers other than the particles of boron nitride according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 10% by weight. 85% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 80%. The lamellar particles may be selected from lamellar reflective particles. Reflective particles are particles whose size, structure, especially the thickness of the layer (s) which constitute it (s) and their physical and chemical nature, and the surface state, allow them to reflect the incident light. This reflection 25 may, if necessary, have sufficient intensity to create, on the surface of the composition or mixture, when it is applied to the support to make up, highlight points visible to the naked eye, c that is to say brighter points that contrast with their environment by a shine effect.

  The lamellar reflective particles may have a multilayer structure or not and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially a reflective material.

  When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or material. metallic. The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic.

  More particularly, the substrate may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof. being not limiting.

  The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic material. Reflective particles are described in particular in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

  Still by way of example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a metal layer, there may also be mentioned particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver. Particles with platelet-shaped silver-coated glass substrate are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.

  The lamellar reflecting particles may also be chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic material, in particular a metal oxide chosen, for example, from titanium oxides, in particular TiO 2 oxides, iron, especially Fe 2 O 3, tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following materials: MgF 2, CrF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, SeO 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta2O5, MoS2 and mixtures or alloys thereof.

  By way of example of such particles, mention may be made, for example, of particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or particles of coated glass of brown iron oxide, of titanium oxide, of tin oxide or a mixture thereof such as those sold under the trade name REFLECKS by ENGELHARD.

  The reflective particle (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5 to 70% relative to the total weight of the first composition, in particular of 10% to 50% by weight, and more preferably 20 to 40% by weight. The lamellar particles other than boron nitride particles may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 10 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 50% to 85% by weight. %.

Pigments

  In addition to the first spherical solid particles, the boron nitride particles, and the additional lamellar fillers mentioned above, the composition according to the invention may comprise pigments.

  By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

  The pigments may be white and / or colored, mineral and / or organic.

  According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pigment chosen from inorganic pigments.

  These inorganic pigments may, in particular, be chosen from metal oxide pigments.

  Examples of inorganic pigments are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, and zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, violet manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the inorganic pigments, in particular metal oxide, present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and / or iron oxide.

  According to a particular embodiment, the pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two different pigments.

  According to a still more preferred embodiment, the pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one first pigment chosen from iron oxides and at least one second titanium dioxide pigment.

  In addition to the inorganic pigments, the pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise organic pigments. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

  The pulverulent phase may also comprise goniochromatic pigments. These pigments have a relatively large color change with the viewing angle. The goniochromatic pigment may be chosen, for example, from pigments with multilayer interferential structure and liquid crystal pigments.

  In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise, for example, at least two layers, each layer, whether or not independent of the other layer (s), being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: Mg F 2, CeF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3, Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, S 2 O 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations. The goniochromatic agents with multilayer structures are especially those described in the following documents: US-A-3,438,796, EP-A-227423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-170439, EP-A-341002, US-A-4,930,866, US-A-5,641,719, EP-A-472371, EP-A-395410, EP-A-753545, EP-A-768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A- 708154, EP-A-579091, US-A-5,411,586, US-A-5,364,467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4,225,031, WO 9517479 (BASF), DE-A -196 14 637. They are in the form of flakes, metallized color.

  The multilayer structures that can be used in the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al; Cr / MgF2 / AI / MgF2 / AI; MoS2 / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / 40 SiO2 / Fe2O3; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3. Depending on the thickness of the different layers, different colors are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; red copper for SiO2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.

  As a result, the multilayer structure can be essentially mineral or organic. Depending on the thickness of each of the different layers, different colors are obtained. The goniochromatic pigments with an interferential multilayer structure according to the invention are in particular those described in the following documents: US-A-3,438,796, EP-A-227423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-170439, EP-A-341002, US-A-4,930,866, US-A-5,641,719, EP-A-472371, EP-A-395410, A-753545, EP-A-768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154, EP-A-579091, US-A-5,411,586, US-A-5,364,467, WO-A-97 / 39066, DE-A-4,225,031, WO 9517479 (BASF), DE-A-196 14 637, and combinations thereof. They are in the form of flakes, metallic color.

  The goniochromatic pigment with an interferential multilayer structure may be chosen from the group consisting of the following commercial goniochromatic pigments: Infinite Colors by the company SHISEIDO, Sicopearl Fantastico by BASF, Colorstream, Xirallic, Xirona by MERCK, Colorglitter by FLEX, and their mixtures.

  Liquid crystal pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1046692.

  Examples of liquid crystal particles that may be used include those known under the name CTFA Polyacrylate-4 and sold under the names HELICONE HC Sapphire, HELICONE HC Scarabeus, HELICONE HC Jade, HELICONE HC Maple, HELICONE HC XL Sapphire, HELICONE HC XL Scarabeus, HELICONE HC XL Jade, HELICONE HC XL Maple by the company WACKER.

  The pigments may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight. % in weight.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the lamellar particles and the pigments are present in the composition in a content such that the weight ratio of the lamellar particles on the pigments ranges from 0.1 to 20, preferably from 5 to 15.

  Additional Particles In addition to the lamellar particles previously described, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional non-lamellar particle of any shape, for example spherical or oblong.

  There may be mentioned spherical silica, polyamide (nylon) powders, poly-palanine powders, polyethylene powders, polyurethane powders such as the hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer powder sold under the names PLASTIC POWDER D-400 by TOSHIKI, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, 40 polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin powders, in particular silsesquioxane powders (silicone resin powders, for example, described in patent EP 293795, Toshiba's Tospearls, for example) elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, polymethyl methacrylate particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrate. magnesium ro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, carbon, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; barium sulfate and mixtures thereof. Binder macroses The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty binder. The term "fatty binder" as used herein means a fatty phase which generally comprises at least one oil. This type of fatty phase serves in particular as a dispersing medium for the powdery phase.

  Advantageously, the fatty binder may comprise at least one oil.

  The oil may be chosen from the oils conventionally used as binder in free or compact powders. These oils may be chosen in particular from: mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil; hydrocarbon oils, such as paraffin oils, squalane, petroleum jelly; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, isoketyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, malate diisostearyl, glycerol triisostearate or diglycerine; silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones or perfluorinated oils; higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; Higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleic alcohol; polymethylfluoroalkyl dimethylsiloxanes of formula (I): ## STR2 ## wherein: from 50 to 80,

from 1 to 40, 40

  and (I) - n represents an integer varying from 5 to 90, in particular from 30 to 80, and in particular - m represents an integer varying from 1 to 150, in particular from 1 to 80, and in particular - a represents a variant integer from 0 to 5, and - Rf denotes a perfluoroalkyl radical comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms; - their mixtures.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from ester esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, laurate, and isopropyl myristate. hexyl, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl, diisostearyl malate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerine.

  In a more preferred embodiment, the oil is isononyl isononanoate.

  The binder oil may represent from 10 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the binder.

  The binder may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1, 5 to 5% by weight. Waxes and pasty aras

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise a wax and / or a pasty fatty substance. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa), with a reversible solid / liquid state change. , having in particular a melting temperature of greater than or equal to 30 ° C., in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C., and up to 250 ° C., in particular up to 230 ° C., and in particular up to 120 ° C.

  By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by restoring the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the Mixing.

  The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 C per minute.

  The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

  In a nonlimiting manner, there may be mentioned the following waxes: the beeswax, lanolin wax and insect waxes from China; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and glycerides concretes at 40 C and especially at more than 55 C, 15

  the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, especially hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, silicone waxes or fluorinated waxes, and their mixtures.

  According to a particular variant of the invention, the solid fatty phase may comprise at least one wax chosen from carnauba waxes, paraffin waxes and mixtures thereof.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the wax present in the composition according to the invention may be wholly or partly in the form of a powder, in particular a micronized powder, to facilitate its use in the preparation of the cosmetic composition.

  Among the waxes that can be used in the form of a powder, mention may especially be made of the Carnauba wax microbeads sold under the name Microcare 350® by the company Micro Powders and the paraffin wax microbeads sold under the name Microease 114S by the company Micro Powders Such micronized additional waxes make it possible in particular to improve the properties during application of the composition to the skin The waxes and / or pasty fatty substances may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 8 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight.

25 Additives

  The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one other usual cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen in particular from gelling agents and / or lipophilic thickeners, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-pollution or anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, film-forming agents, non-elastomeric surfactants, dermorelaxing active agents, agents soothing agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, anti-glycation agents, anti-irritant agents, desquamating agents, depigmenting agents, anti-pigmenting agents, or pro-pigmenting agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents that stimulate fibroblast or keranocyte proliferation and / or differentiation of keranocytes, agents acting on microcirculation, agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells, healing agents, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be a cosmetic composition in powder form comprising: i) 1 to 20% of spherical solid particles having a refractive index less than or equal to 1.6, 45 ii ) 1 to 20% of particles of boron nitride, iii) 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment chosen from iron oxides, titanium oxides and their mixture iv) 20 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one lamellar filler, 50 v) 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one fatty binder . 10

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may be an anhydrous composition. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

  The invention is illustrated in more detail in the examples below. Examples 1 to 3 A free finishing powder (Example 1), a blush (Example 2) and a complexion-enhancing powder (Example 3) were prepared having the following compositions: Ex.1 Ex.2 Ex.3 (% by weight) weight) (% by weight) (% by weight) Al phase Iron oxide Yellow 1,2 2,61 3,33 Titanium dioxide 1,00 5,00 5,00 Overseas blue - 1,95 0,20 Pink Helindone - 0, 35 Carmine red lacquer 0,14 Bismuth oxychloride 1,00 7,00 7,00 Mica 35,00 35,00 35,00 Sericite 39,74 16,09 4,07 Nacres 10,00 23,20 Boron Nitride 8.00 8.00 8.00 Carnauba Wax 1.00 1.00 1.00 Microbeads 10, 00 10.00 10.00 Phase A2 Isononyl Isononanoate 3.00 3.00 3.00 Active ingredients / vitamins qs qs qs All the constituents of phase Al are mixed in a Lodige mixer for 15 minutes (without emptying).

  While stirring, the constituents of the A2 phase are added to Al and mixed for 15 minutes. The resulting mixture is then milled in a pin mill at a speed of 1800 rpm.

  A composition in the form of a powder is obtained, giving the skin, after application, a natural make-up veil, the color effect of which is less attenuated with respect to the colored effect of the dyestuffs alone.

Claims (35)

claims   An anhydrous cosmetic composition in powder form comprising at least one pulverulent phase and a fatty binder, said powdery phase comprising: i) at least one first spherical solid particle having a refractive index of less than or equal to 1.6, and ii) particles of boron nitride, and iii) 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one lamellar particle.   2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the first solid particles are non-deformable particles.   3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first solid particles have a refractive index ranging from 1.3 to 1.6.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first solid particles have a refractive index less than or equal to 1.55, in particular ranging from 1.3 to 1.55.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first solid particles are glass particles.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first spherical solid particles are solid glass particles.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first spherical solid particles are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particles of boron nitride have a size ranging from 1 μm to 20 μm, preferably from 3 μm to 15 μm, and more preferably from 3 μm to 10 μm. m.   9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particles of boron nitride are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 5% to 15% by weight.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first spherical solid particles and the particles of boron nitride are present in a content such that the weight ratio of the first spherical solid particles to the particles of boron nitride. is between 1 to 15, and preferably 1 to 2. 45   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises: i) at least a first particle in the form of glass beads, ii) particles of boron nitride, 50 iii) 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one lamellar particle. 35 40   12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lamellar particle is chosen from lamellar nacres, lamellar fillers and / or lamellar reflective particles.   13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pulverulent phase comprises at least two lamellar particles of different nature.   14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the pulverulent phase comprises at least one lamellar nacre and at least two lamellar fillers.   15. Composition according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that the lamellar nacre is chosen from white nacres such as mica covered with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacres such as titanium mica. coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with, inter alia, ferric blue, carmine or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as the nacres of oxychloride of bismuth or bismuth oxychloride.   16. Composition according to any one of claims 12 to 15, characterized in that the lamellar nacre is chosen from bismuth oxychloride, mica coated with titanium, and their mixture.   17. Composition according to any one of claims 12 to 16, characterized in that the lamellar nacre is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight.   18. Composition according to any one of claims 12 to 17, characterized in that the lamellar filler is selected from talc, mica, sericite, kaolin, silica, or their mixture.   19. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the lamellar filler is selected from mica, sericite, and their mixture.   20. Composition according to any one of claims 18 and 19, characterized in that the mica and / or sericite are present in a content ranging from 5 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of preferably from 10 to 85% by weight, and preferably from 20 to 80%.   21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lamellar particles are present in the composition in a content ranging from 30 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better 50 % to 85%.   22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one pigment chosen from metal oxide pigments.   23. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the metal oxide pigments are chosen from pigments of iron oxide, zinc oxide, and / or titanium dioxide. 50   24. Composition according to any one of claims 22 and 23, characterized in that the pulverulent phase comprises at least two different pigments. 30 45   25. Composition according to any one of claims 22 to 24, characterized in that the pulverulent phase comprises at least one first pigment selected from iron oxide pigments and at least one second pigment selected from titanium dioxide pigments.   26. Composition according to any one of claims 22 to 25, characterized in that the pigments are present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from at 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight.   27. Composition according to any one of claims 22 to 26, characterized in that the lamellar particles and pigments are present in the composition in a content such that the weight ratio of the lamellar particles on the pigments is from 0.1 to 20 and preferably from 5 to 15.   28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty binder comprises an oil.   29. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oil is chosen from fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, stearate. isoketyl, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristate or lactate 2- octyl-dodecyl, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerine. 25   30. Composition according to one of claims 28 or 29, characterized in that the oil is isononyl isononanoate.   31. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a wax and / or a pasty fatty substance.   32. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the wax is chosen from carnauba waxes, paraffin waxes and their mixture. 35   33. An anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a powder comprising: i) 1 to 20% of spherical solid particles having a refractive index less than or equal to 1.6, ii) 1 to 20% of boron nitride particles, iii) 1 at 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one pigment 40 chosen from iron oxides, titanium oxides and their mixture, iv) 20 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one lamellar filler, v) 2 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one fatty binder. 45   34. A method of makeup of the skin of the face and / or the body comprising the application to said skin of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 33.   35. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 33 to obtain a natural makeup veil and whose color effect is slightly attenuated with respect to the color effect of the dyestuffs alone. 10 15