FR2900572A1 - Cosmetic care of skin, useful e.g. to maintain and/or increase the skin thickness, comprises applying a composition of saccharidic compound increasing mechanoreceptor expression in skin cells and a device to apply mechanical stress - Google Patents

Abstract

Process of cosmetic care of skin comprises simultaneous or sequential application of a composition (I) comprising a saccharidic compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in skin cells and a device (II) to apply mechanical stress on the skin in a controlled manner. An independent claim is included for a cosmetic kit comprising (I) and (II).

Description

The field of the invention relates to improving the appearance of the skin

face and / or body.

  The present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic skin care method comprising the simultaneous or sequential application of: (i) a composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin; (ii) a device for controlled application of mechanical stresses on the skin.

  It also relates to a cosmetic kit comprising at least a composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin; and a device for controlled application of mechanical stresses on the skin.

  The joint use of said composition and of said device makes it possible to potentiate and / or prolong the effect of the mechanical stresses induced by the application of said device on the improvement of the homeostasis of the skin, in particular the maintenance and / or improvement of the thickness of the skin, the smoothing of wrinkles and fine lines, and / or the improvement of the mechanical properties of the skin (ex: firmness, elasticity).

  The desire to keep as long as possible a young looking skin, with good mechanical properties (eg firmness, elasticity) is a concern of the majority of women and also concerns more and more men.

  The skin is a physical barrier between the body and its environment. It consists of two tissues: the epidermis and the dermis.

  The epidermis is a keratinizing pluristratified epithelium that is constantly renewed. Keratinocytes are the main epidermal cell population and are responsible for maintaining the epithelial structure and its barrier function. The epidermis rests on an acellular basement membrane, called a dermoepidermal junction, which ensures cohesion with the dermis.

  The epidermis consists of several layers of cells, the deepest of which is the basal layer of undifferentiated cells. Over time, these cells will differentiate and migrate to the surface of the epidermis by constituting the different bases of it, to form on the surface of the epidermis corneocytes which are dead cells that eliminate by desquamation. This loss of surface is compensated by the migration of cells from the basal layer to the surface of the epidermis. This is the continuous renewal of the skin.

  The dermis is a compressible and elastic supportive connective tissue of mesodermal origin mainly composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix consisting of fibrous proteins (collagen and elastin), and non-fibrous proteins (proteoglycans and glycoproteins) . The dermis is a nourishing tissue for the epidermis but it also plays a fundamental role in the development and growth of the epidermis, as well as in its differentiation. Fibroblasts and the extracellular matrix also influence the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular its elasticity and firmness.

  The homeostasis of the skin, and in particular of the epidermis, results from a finely regulated balance between the processes of proliferation and differentiation of skin cells.

  These proliferation and differentiation processes are perfectly regulated: they participate in the renewal and / or regeneration of the skin and lead to the maintenance of a constant thickness of the skin, and in particular of a constant thickness of the epidermis. This homeostasis of the skin also plays a role in the smoothing of wrinkles and fine lines and / or the maintenance of the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular its firmness and / or elasticity.

  But this homeostasis of the skin can be altered by certain physiological factors (age, menopause, hormones ...), or environmental (UV stress, pollution, oxidative stress, irritating stress ...). The regenerative potential of the epidermis becomes less important: the cells of the basal layer divide less actively, leading in particular to a slowing down and / or a decrease in epidermal renewal. Therefore, cell turnover no longer offsets the loss of surface-removed cells, leading to epidermal atrophy and / or decreased skin thickness and / or loss of elasticity and / or firmness skin and / or the formation of wrinkles or fine lines.

  This phenomenon can be accentuated by the menopause: women complain that their skin pulls and becomes dry, or even the appearance of xerosis. The hormonal deficits associated with menopause are accompanied by a decrease in metabolic activity, which could lead to a decrease in the proliferation of keratinocytes and an increase in epidermal differentiation.

  It is known that mechanical stress can influence various functions necessary for the development and homeostasis of tissues.

  The mechanical stresses are transmitted in the cell in the form of biochemical signals via membrane or mechanoreceptor receptors. Among them are the integrins (Pommerenke et al., Eur J Cell Biol 1996 Jun; 70 (2): 157-64), the PECAM1 type receptors (Fujiwara et al., Cell struct funct 2001 Feb; 26 (1)). ): 11-7) or PDGF growth factor receptors (Li et al., Cell Signal 2000 Jul; 12 (7): 435-45). The voltages, inducing a mechanical disturbance of these receivers trigger, in a first step, the activation of multiple second messengers. The voltages activate in particular Protein Tyrosine Kinase (PTK), Protein Kinase C (PKC), G proteins rac and cdc42 or induce the release of calcium fluxes. The activation of these various signaling pathways leads to the activation of protein kinases of the same family, MAPKinases, Erkl, Erk2 and p38. MAPKs, once activated, induce the activation of specific transcriptional factors that regulate the expression of many genes involved in keratinocyte homeostasis. These activation mechanisms are also well controlled: during the tensions, in particular, Erk induces the expression of MAPK phosphatases, known to inhibit Erk. This process allows the cells to control the signals induced by the voltages and to prevent pathological hyperproliferation of the keratinocytes.

  It is in this context that the Applicant proposes to use, in combination with a device for applying in a controlled manner mechanical stresses on the skin, a composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression and therefore the number of mechanoreceptors. in the cells of the skin in order to sensitize the cells to the mechanical stresses induced by the device and thus make it possible to potentiate and / or increase and / or prolong the effect of these mechanical stresses on the improvement of the homeostasis of the skin, maintaining and / or increasing the thickness of the skin, and / or improving the mechanical properties of the skin (firmness, elasticity, tonicity).

  'Sensitizing cells' means increasing their ability to respond to mechanical stress. This combination is also advantageous in that it makes it possible to limit the intensity of the mechanical stresses necessary to obtain the desired effect and to optimize the comfort of the devices used for the purpose of applying these stresses to the skin.

  By `mechanical stresses' is meant especially tensions and / or pulls and / or pressures on the skin.

  These mechanical stresses can not be obtained by a superficial effleurage of the skin as performed during manual local applications of cosmetic compositions.

  The present invention thus relates in particular to a cosmetic skin care method comprising the simultaneous or sequential application of: (i) a composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin; (ii) a device for controlled application of mechanical stresses on the skin.

  By "simultaneous application" is meant according to the invention an embodiment in which the composition is contained in a reservoir of said device or the composition is applied beforehand on said device before application thereof to the skin. Preferably, the composition will be contained in said device.

  "Sequential application" means an embodiment in which the composition and the device are applied successively (immediately) or delayed in time on the skin; preferably, the composition will be applied before the device during the first application (s), the composition being intended to sensitize the cells to mechanical stresses provided by said device; the order of application does not matter in subsequent applications, for a daily treatment of one to two applications per day.

  Composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in skin cells: "Mechanoreceptors" according to the invention are understood to mean, in particular, membrane receptors sensitive to mechanical tensions, that is to say membrane receptors. capable of inducing an intracellular biological response in response to a mechanical disturbance. Among them are integrins (Pommerenke et al., Eur J Cell Biol 1996 Jun; 70 (2): 157-64), PECAM1 type receptors (Fujiwara et al., Cell struct funct 2001 Feb; 26 (1)). ): 11-7) or PDGF growth factor receptors (Li et al., Cell Signal 2000 Jul; 12 (7): 435-45).

  We will focus in particular on the group of integrins, and in particular on the class of integrins pl involved in the sensitivity of cells to mechanical stresses.

  Integrins are adhesion molecules involved in cell-cell and cell-matrix interactions. They are heterodimeric receptors composed of two subunits α and R noncovalently associated. More than 17 chains of the subunit a and 8 chains of the subunit R have been described, which combine to form 23 different heterodimers. The transmembrane domain of the α-subunits consists of a α-helix, very conserved from one subunit to another, responsible for the anchor function of the integrin to the membrane and participates in signal transduction. . The cytoplasmic domain of the subunits 13, highly conserved from one subunit to another, is responsible on the one hand for the formation of the heterodimer and on the other hand for the binding with structural proteins of the cytoskeleton; this association also regulates signal transduction. The heterodimers of integrins can be classified according to their substrate; It is known in particular that: - the heterodimers a1 (31 and a2131 bind to collagen - the heterodimers 134131, a5131, a8131 and av (31 bind to fibronectin; - the heterodimers a1 (31, a2131, a3131 and a6131 bind to laminins.

  Collagen, fibronectin and laminin are matrix proteins or extracellular matrix proteins that participate in cell adhesion and play an important role in cell migration and signaling. During cell adhesion and migration processes, the cells interact with the template molecules via membrane receptors and in particular the integrins as described above. And this interaction initiates intracellular responses involved in cell signaling, cell differentiation, migration and / or cell proliferation.

  By "saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin" is meant in particular according to the invention any saccharide compound capable of inducing and / or stimulating the expression of mechanoreceptors in the skin cells, in particular particularly in the cells of the epidermis and the dermis (ex: keratinocytes, fibroblasts).

  Preferably, one is interested in saccharide compounds increasing the expression of integrins, and in particular to saccharide compounds increasing the expression of integrins 131. Such saccharide compounds can be selected according to standard methods of detection by immunofluorescence or by RT- Quantitative PCR. Preferably, quantitative RT-PCR technology will be used.

  The principle of detection by immunofluorescence consists in bringing cells in culture into contact with the saccharide compounds to be tested and then in revealing the effect of said saccharide compounds on the expression of mechanoreceptors and in particular integrins (eg integrins (31) using anti-integrin antibodies and secondary antibodies coupled to a fluorescent marker (fluorescein) The general principle of quantitative RT-PCR technology, which is preferred according to the invention, comprises for example the following steps: concentrations of the saccharide compounds to be tested from a cytotoxicity study under the conditions of the test: human keratinocytes and / or fibroblasts are cultured in a culture medium adapted to these different cell types; of culture against the same medium containing or not (control) the saccharide compound to be tested at different levels. selected incubations, after 24 hours of incubation for example, the mRNAs are extracted and the traces of DNA are removed by treatment with DNAse, which is then inactivated, followed by a reverse transcription reaction followed by fluorescence quantization of the synthesized cDNA; a first series of Q-PCRs is carried out on the actin marker (control) to verify the homogeneity of the preparations to be compared; triplicate Q-PCRs are then carried out using pairs of primers specific for the R-actin sequences, and markers specific for the mechanoreceptors and in particular integrins (eg integrins p1); the differential expression of the integrins is then evaluated by fluorescence analysis in the amplified DNA; the saccharide compounds are selected for which an increase in the fluorescence intensity corresponding to a stimulation and / or an increase in the expression of integrins with respect to the control condition (not treated by the agent) is obtained.

  The PCR (polymerase chain reaction) reactions may in particular be carried out by quantitative PCR with the Light Cycler system (Roche Molecular Systems Inc.) and according to the procedures recommended by the supplier. Preferably, the saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the skin cells present in the composition is a saccharide compound increasing the expression of integrins in the cells of the skin.

  The saccharide compounds according to the invention are saccharide compounds of low molecular weight, in particular capable of diffusing and / or penetrating the layers of the epidermis to increase the expression of mechanoreceptors.

  By `low molecular weight saccharide compounds' according to the invention is meant saccharide compounds with a molecular weight of less than 100 kD, in particular less than 80 kD, more preferably less than 60 kD, preferably less than 40 kD, even more preferentially less than 20 kD, even less than 10kD. According to one particular embodiment, the saccharide compounds according to the invention will have a molecular weight ranging from 0.01 to 10 kDa. Thus, as saccharide compounds increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors, the polysaccharides of high are excluded according to the invention. molecular weight, that is to say molecular weight greater than or equal to 100kD gelling power which, because of their large size, will remain on the surface of the skin.

  Among the high molecular weight saccharide compounds, generally ranging from 100kD to 10,000kD, there may be mentioned gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, guar gum, tamarind gum, xanthan, gellan, pectins, tragacanth, agar, alginate, carrageenan, furcelleran, konjac and cellulose derivatives.

  It is defined by `gelling power 'that at a concentration greater than or equal to 1 by weight in water, the viscosity of the solutions thus obtained is greater than or equal to 0.5 Pa.s for a shear rate equal to 1 s- '. The measurements are carried out at 25 C using a Haake RheoStress RS150 rheometer in a cone-plane configuration, the measurements of the measurement cone being: diameter: 60 mm and angle: 2.

  Preferably, the saccharide compounds increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors according to the invention will be chosen from: monosaccharides, polysaccharides and their derivatives, in particular C-glycoside derivatives of monosaccharides or of polysaccharides.

  The definition of the saccharide compounds according to the invention can be extended to plant extracts containing them and / or to the fractions of plant extracts enriched with these saccharide compounds, such as in particular extracts and / or fractions of wheat, rye, and especially rye. • Monosaccharides

  The term monosaccharide according to the invention means a saccharic unit, said monosaccharide having at least one hydroxyl function necessarily free and / or optionally one or more amine functions optionally protected. Advantageously, the monosaccharides may be in the pyranose and / or furanose, and L and / or D series form and chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D -galactosamine. Polysaccharides The term "polysaccharide" means a saccharide compound generally containing from 2 to 20 saccharide units as described above, said polysaccharide having at least one hydroxyl function which is necessarily free and / or possibly one or more optionally protected amine functional groups. When the polysaccharide contains from 3 to 6 sugar units, it will be called oligosaccharide. Homopolysaccharides consisting of the same monosaccharide and heteropolysaccharides formed of different monosaccharides are distinguished.

  In particular, the polysaccharide contains from 2 to 20 saccharide units, in particular from 15 to 20 saccharide units. The polysaccharides according to the invention may be of the linear and / or branched type. They may be oligomers of monosaccharides also called oligosaccharides, or polymers associating different monosaccharides, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose, and of series L and / or D. The polysaccharides according to the invention are advantageously chosen from: polysaccharides containing up to 20 saccharide units selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, and D-maltotriose; a disaccharide associating a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, and N-acetyl-D-galactosamine; acetyl-D-glucosamine; an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose advantageously chosen from xylobiose, methyl-13-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and preferably xylobiose which is composed of two xylose molecules linked by a linkage 1- 4; or polysaccharides consisting of a chain of monosaccharides in pyranose form on which are grafted saccharide units in furanose form, or vice versa, such as xylan and their derivatives. Examples of xylan derivatives which may be mentioned are arabinoxylan, arabinoglucoxylan, galactogalactoglucoxylan, fucoglucoxylan, galactoarabinoxylan, galactoglucomannoxylan, galactoglucoxylan, galactomannoglucoxylan, galactoxylan, glucogalactoxylan, glucomannofucoxylan, glucoarabinoxylan, glucomannoxylan, and glucoxylan. A preferred xylan derivative is the arabinoxylan shown below: The arabinoxylans consist of a D-xylopyranose backbone to which α-L-arabinofuranose linkages in 13- (1-4) linkages are attached. It is also possible to use plant extracts and / or extracts fractions rich in at least one saccharide compound as defined above and in particular plant extracts and / or fractions of extracts rich in a mixture of saccharide compounds as defined above. Preferred saccharide compounds include glucose, xylose, xylan and their derivatives. By way of example, extracts and / or fractions containing at least glucose, xylose and an arabinoxylan may be used, such as in particular extracts of rye or wheat seeds, in particular rye. Such extracts are in particular marketed by SILAB under the name Coheliss. As another example of commercially available rye seed extracts, mention may be made of Cosmetochem's Herbasol Extract Rye. • c-glvcosides and their derivatives

  As a saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in skin cells, mention may also be made of C-glycoside derivatives such as those described in application WO 02/051828, incorporated herein by reference.

  In particular, the C-glycoside derivative has the general formula (I):

  Wherein X represents a radical selected from the groups: ## STR2 ## wherein R 1, R 2 and R 3 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an OH group or an R radical with R as defined below, R represents: a linear, branched or cyclic C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, a polyfluoro- or perfluoroalkyl radical; C., C.sub.2o, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or an aryl radical, in particular phenyl, C.sub.1 -C.sub.20 alkylaryl, in particular benzyl, R.sub.3, the hydrocarbon-based chain constituting said radicals being able, if appropriate, to be interrupted. by 1, 2, 3 or more heteroatoms chosen from: - oxygen, - sulfur, - nitrogen, and - silicon, and possibly being substituted by at least one radical chosen from: - -OR4, --SR4, - -NR4R5, - -COOR4, - -CONHR4, - CN, - a halogen atom, - a polyfluoro- or perfluoro-alk radical C 1 -C 6, -C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl or heterocycloalkyl, and -C 5 -C 18 aryl; optionally substituted, with R4 and R5 being able to represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or an alkyl, acyl, perfluoroalkyl or polyfluoroalkyl radical of C, to Cao, especially C, to C12, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide having up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and L and / or D series said mono- or polysaccharide may be substituted with a radical (CH2) -OR6, with R6 representing a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl radical, with a hydroxyl group and / or with a radical 0- glycoside, and having at least one free hydroxyl function and / or an optionally protected amine function, and the SC bond represents a C-anomeric bond, or a salt or isomer thereof. 30

  Advantageously, the monosaccharide represented by S in formula (I) is chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, D-fucose, L-arabinose, D-maltose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and N-acetyl -D-galactosamine. As regards the polysaccharides, they may contain up to 6 sugar units and are especially chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose and D-maltotriose, a disaccharide associating a chosen uronic acid. among D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose advantageously chosen from xylobiose, methyl-13-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and preferably xylobiose which is composed of two xylose molecules linked by a 1-4 bond.

  More particularly, S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, D-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose and preferentially D-xylose.

  According to a preferred embodiment, a C-glycoside derivative corresponding to formula (II): (R ") p in which: p represents an integer chosen from 2 and 3, - R and X, is used in the composition of the invention; are as defined above, and - R "represents: - a radical (CH 2) -OR 6, with R 6 representing a hydrogen atom or a C 1 to C 6 alkyl radical, in particular C 1 to C 4, hydroxyl group, and / or - an O-glycoside radical.

  The C-anomeric bond in formulas (I) and (II) can be a or R.

  Preferably, X represents, in the formulas (I) and (II), a function: C 25 0 or a unit: ## STR2 ## According to another particular embodiment, R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical and saturated with C, at C6 and especially a methyl radical.

  The invention also extends to the optical and / or geometric isomers of the compounds of formulas (I) and (II), alone or as a mixture in all proportions, and to the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds. The C-glycoside derivatives according to the invention can be used alone or in mixture and in any proportion.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mixture" refers to mixtures of the different isomeric forms of the same compound as well as mixtures of different compounds of general formula I and / or their respective isomeric forms.

  The C-glycoside derivatives may be of natural or synthetic origin, totally or partially purified from any preparation containing them. By natural origin is meant a derivative extracted from a natural material like a plant, for example. By synthetic origin is meant a derivative prepared by chemical synthesis or by biotechnology.

  The term "totally or partially purified" herein means that during its synthesis or with respect to its natural state (fresh or dried plant or cells), the compounds of formulas (I) and (II) according to the invention have been at least a portion of the secondary reaction products from their synthesis or from at least a portion of the other constituents of the natural material in which they are present are concentrated and / or have been removed.

  In addition, certain hydroxyl functions of the C-glycoside derivatives of formula (II) may be sulfated after selective protection of other hydroxyl functions. This sulfation reaction after protection is described in particular by A. Lubineau in the reference J. Chem. Soc. Chem. Commun., 1993, page 1419. By way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycoside derivatives which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds: C-13- D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-G3-D- (3.4.5-triacetoxy) xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one - C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (C-13-D-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one, - 1- (CaD-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one; 1- (C-13-L-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one; 1- (CaL-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one; 1- (C-13-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (CaD-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (C-13-L-fucopyranoside) 2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (CaL-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (C-13-D-Glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxylpropane, 1- (CaD-Glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxylpropane, 1- (C-13-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxylpropane, 1- (CaD-ga) lactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxy-propane - 1- (C-13-D-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one, 1- (CaD-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one - 1- (C- 13-L-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one, 1- (CaL-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one, - C-13-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - CaD -maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one - C-13-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.

  These C-glycoside derivatives can increase the expression of mechanoreceptors in skin cells by inducing the activation of intracellular signals that lead to the transactivation of the integrin promoter and their expression. Advantageously, the C-glycosides according to the invention are chosen from: • C-13-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one • C-13-D- (3,4,5-triacetoxy) xylopyranoside-n-propane- 2-one • C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propan-2-one and their derivatives. The saccharide compounds that can be used in the compositions of the invention can be of natural or synthetic origin. By natural origin is meant a derivative extracted from a natural material like a plant, for example. By synthetic origin is meant a derivative prepared by chemical synthesis or by biotechnology. The amount of saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors usable in the compositions according to the invention obviously depends on the desired effect and must be in an amount effective to induce and / or increase the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the cells. skin. To give an order of magnitude, the composition of the invention may contain at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in an amount representing from 0.00001% to 30% of the total weight of the composition, in particular in a amount representing from 0.0001% to 10%, and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin of the face and / or the body. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tugging, redness), which is susceptible to divert the consumer from using this composition.

  The composition according to the invention may be a body or face care composition, or a makeup composition. The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of dispersions of the lotion or aqueous gel type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency, of the cream or gel type, or in the form of a serum, a stick or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H) , microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

  When the composition that can be used according to the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, the waxes, the emulsifiers and the coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics field. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles.

  When the composition that can be used according to the invention is an oily solution or gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.

  In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, chelating agents, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and / or into the nanoparticles.

  When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% of the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. As oils or waxes that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils (vaseline oil), vegetable oils (liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil), animal oils (perhydrosqualene), synthetic oils ( Purcellin oil), silicone oils or waxes (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers), bees, carnauba or paraffin waxes. To these oils can be added fatty alcohols and fatty acids (stearic acid). As emulsifiers that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60 and the PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate mixture sold under the name Tefose 63 by the company Gattefosse.

  As solvents that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, and propylene glycol.

  As emulsifiers and coemulsifiers that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, fatty acid and polyol esters. such as glyceryl stearate and sorbitan tristearate.

  As hydrophilic gelling agents that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as hydroxypropylcellulose, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, ethylcellulose and polyethylene.

  Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. . The application of the composition according to the invention is carried out according to the usual techniques, for example by application of creams, gels, serums, lotions, on the skin intended to be treated, in particular the skin of the body, of the face and / or neck.

  Device for controlled application of mechanical stress to the skin

  By 'controlled application' is meant a stimulation of the skin by means of a device. This stimulation can be in particular mechanical or electrical. Preferably, mechanical stimulation will be used.

  These devices can be manual, that is to say not requiring, for operation, external energy input other than a simple application of the device on the skin, possibly with a movement back and forth (massage) where can be equipped with an electric motor operating both on mains and battery.

  According to a first embodiment, the device may be a massage instrument chosen from a manual massage instrument or a massage instrument requiring external energy input.

  As an example of manual instruments, the devices developed or marketed by the companies: Environ (Environ Cosmetic Roll-Cit); Repechage (Facial Repleving Lift On The Go ()); Leaf & Rusher (Leaf & Rusher DermaRoller0). These instruments may be in the form of rollers or massage balls possibly containing pimples on their surface. 30

  Examples of instruments requiring external energy input include devices developed or marketed by companies: WinHealth (Magic Youth Wand Eye Roller0); HoMedics (FAC-100 Facial Spa ()); LPG (Lift6). These massage instruments may be mechanically assisted, that is to say comprising manual control means, comprising a treatment head connected to a suction circuit, said treatment head comprising two surfaces arranged opposite the one of the other and said suction circuit for forming by depression created a fold of skin which will then be moved on the surface of the human body.

  Devices such as Lift6 can perform specific massages that are obtained by using massage heads connected to a suction circuit. The massage heads comprise a housing, a chamber and two transverse surfaces consisting of positively rotated rollers, such devices are described for example in the French patent applications FR2579100, FR2589726, FR2612395, FR2723310, FR2752159, FR2768051 and FR2809952.

  According to another embodiment, the device intended to generate mechanical stresses on the skin is a particularly adhesive support capable of generating tension and / or pressure on the skin.

  This support will in particular be characterized by an elastic modulus greater than or equal to SMPa, in particular ranging from 5 to 1000 MPa, preferably from 5 to 200 MPa. This module can in particular be determined by dynamic mechanical analysis using, for example, DMA 2980 (Dynamical Mechanism Analysis) marketed by TA Instrument.

  This support may for example be a synthetic support.

  As an example of a particular adhesive support, patches may be mentioned. The patches generally have a composite structure in the form of layers. Advantageously, they contain a reservoir comprising the composition or the active agent intended to be released on the skin at the time of application of the patch. For example, there may be mentioned: controlled release patches with a hydrophobic polymeric matrix (L'Oreal); reservoir type patches containing an active substance reservoir, a diffusion membrane and an adhesive layer; optimized adhesion patches comprising a hydrophobic polymer layer fixed on a support layer and containing particles of active compound, oil particles and particles of a water-absorbing agent (FR 2 761 889 L'Oreal); and advantageously so-called 'reservoir' systems allowing controlled release of said active substance.

  The patch generally comprises at least one polymeric matrix whose surface, adhesive or capable of becoming, especially after hydration, is intended to be brought into contact with the skin. "Polymeric matrix" means a hydrophobic or hydrophilic polymer layer which may consist of a self-adhesive matrix (on dry skin and / or on wet skin). The `hydrophobic` polymeric matrices constituting` conventional` patches are based in particular on polyacrylic, polyvinyl adhesive, polyurethane silicone polymer, styrene or isoprene, the crosslinking of which is preferably partial so as to confer on it adhesion without requiring additional adhesive layer.

  An adhesive matrix of latex, butyl, or other elastomeric adhesive may also be used.

  The surface of the matrix intended to come into contact with the skin may be smooth or have asperities or reliefs.

  Preferably, the polymeric matrix is deposited on a support. The support can be an occlusive support. By way of example, the support consists of a thermoplastic material chosen from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chlorides, copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyesters and polyurethanes. , or a complex of such materials. These materials may also be present in laminated form with at least one sheet of metal such as aluminum foil. The support layer may be of any suitable thickness which will provide the desired support and protection functions. Preferably, the thickness of the support layer is from about 20 μm to about 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support layer is sufficiently flexible so as to perfectly fit the profile of the skin, and not to cause the user, a feeling of discomfort. Preferably, however, the support is `non-occlusive '. In the latter case, it is advantageous to use a support consisting of a paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven fabric, a nonwoven fabric or a perforated nonwoven fabric.

  Preferably, the patch comprises at least one protective sheet, peelable before application of the patch.

  The patch can be packaged in a tray or in a protective bag formed from two sheets of a paper / plastic film complex sealed, the paper being coated with a cold sealable adhesive, the sheets being sealed around the patch by contact of the coated faces of adhesive.

  According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin is contained in a reservoir of said device and released at the time of application to the skin of said device.

  The process according to the invention is intended in particular to promote the homeostasis of the skin, in particular to maintain and / or increase the thickness of the skin, to smooth out wrinkles and fine lines, and / or to improve the mechanical properties of the skin ( ex: firmness, elasticity).

  According to one particular embodiment, the composition and the device according to the invention may be applied to persons having a soft and / or flabby skin or to areas of the body presenting a loss of elasticity and / or firmness. In particular, the composition may be applied to the face, belly and thighs.

  Advantageously and to obtain a residual effect over time on the homeostasis of the skin, the application of the composition and the device according to the invention can be carried out daily, in the morning and / or evening.

  The method according to the invention may consist for example of a daily application, morning and / or evening, simultaneously or sequentially (successive or delayed in time), the composition and the device. The application is performed on the areas of the face and / or the body to be treated. The device intended to generate the mechanical stresses is applied to the skin for a duration preferably greater than or equal to 1 minute and possibly ranging from a few minutes (especially in the case of a massage with a massage instrument) to 1 or several hours (for example in the case of a controlled release patch of the active).

  The invention also relates to a cosmetic kit comprising at least: a composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin; and a device for controlled application of mechanical stresses on the skin.

  In particular, the device for applying in a controlled manner mechanical stress on the skin of this kit is a massage instrument chosen from a manual massage instrument or a massage instrument requiring external energy input.

  According to an alternative, the device intended to generate mechanical stresses on the skin of this kit is a particularly adhesive support capable of generating tension and / or pressure on the skin. A preferred support used in the kit according to the invention is a patch.

  According to a particular kit of the invention, the composition is contained in a reservoir of said device intended to apply in a controlled manner mechanical tensions on the skin.

  Examples of saccharide compounds increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors present in the composition are described above. In particular, a saccharide compound chosen from monosaccharides, polysaccharides and C-glycosides and their derivatives will be used in the constitutive composition of the care kit according to the invention.

  Examples of these compounds are described above.

  The invention also relates to the joint use of a composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in skin cells and a device for controlled application of mechanical stresses on the skin. , said composition being intended to sensitize the skin cells to the mechanical stresses induced by the application of said device. This joint use in particular has the effect of potentiating and / or prolonging the effect of the mechanical stresses induced by the application of said device on maintaining and / or increasing the thickness of the skin, smoothing wrinkles and fine lines. and / or improving the mechanical properties of the skin.

  The invention will now be described with reference to the following examples given for illustrative and non-limiting. In these examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as percentages by weight. The invention will now be described with reference to the following examples given for illustrative and non-limiting. In these examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as percentages by weight. EXAMPLES

  Example A: Cosmetic composition - oil-in-water emulsion AGlyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (ARLACEL 165FL): 2.00 g Dimyristyl tartrate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) C12-15 pareth-7 (and) PPG-25 laureth25 ( Cosmacol PSE): 1.50 g Cyclohexasiloxane: 10.00 g Stearyl alcohol: 1.00 g 25 B- Preservatives: 0.75 g Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphate: 0.05 g Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide (HOSTACERIN AMPS): 0.40 g C-13-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane -2-one 1.80 g Water: qp 30 Operating method: - heat phase B to about 75 C and incorporate Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide; stir until a homogeneous gel is obtained. heat the phase A to approximately 75 ° C. make the emulsion by incorporating phase A into phase B. mechanical properties of the skin. 3.50 g Example B: Cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion W / O / E Primary emulsion (A): Polyglyceryl 4 isostearate, hexyl laurate and cetyl PEG / PPG 10/1 dimethicone: Cyclopentasiloxane: 16.50 g Dimethicone: 4.00 g Magnesium sulphate 0.80 g Water: qsp Multiple emulsion 22.50 g Primary emulsion (A): Cyclopentasiloxane: 3.50 g Apricot almond oil: 4.00 g Water: 65, 05 g Preservatives 1.00 g Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphonate: 0.05 g Copolymer alkylacrylate: 0.60 g Sodium hydroxide: 0.30 g C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propan-2-one 3 Procedure Preparation of the Primary Emulsion: Polyglyceryl 4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, cetyl PEG / PPG 10/1 dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone are homogenized at room temperature with stirring. Under strong agitation, water is slowly added.

  The composition is applied to the skin of the face and / or the body and the area of skin on which said composition has been applied is massaged with a manual massage instrument of the Environ Cosmetic Roll-Cit type. The duration of the massage can range from 1 minute to several minutes to optimize the desired effect on skin homeostasis and / or the preparation of the triple emulsion: at room temperature and with stirring, the copolymer of alkylacrylate, preservatives and sequestering agent (pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphonate). Allowed to swell for about 45 minutes with stirring and then neutralized with sodium hydroxide. The primary emulsion is diluted with cyclopentasiloxane and apricot kernel oil, and this mixture is slowly incorporated with stirring into the aqueous phase.

  This composition is applied to the areas of the body where the skin is soft and / or flabby, in particular the belly and / or the thighs. Massage is then performed using a Lift6-type device for a period ranging from 10 to 30 minutes to optimize the desired effect on the elasticity and / or the firmness of the skin. 1.5 g Example C: Cosmetic composition in the form of a W / O emulsion A-Polymethylcetyl dimethyl methylsiloxane oxyethylene Isotearate polyglycerol 0.5 g Isohexadecane 4 g Squalane 1.85 g Dimethicone 2.05 g Almond oil apricot 1.1 g Cyclopentasiloxane 9 g Propylparaben 0.15 g B- Propylene glycol 3g Magnesium sulphate 1.75 g Methylparaben 0.2 g Preservative 0.3 g Xylotetraose 1.5 g Water qs 20 25 35 Procedure: 3g - Homogenize to room temperature with stirring phase A and phase B separately. - Make the emulsion by incorporating phase B into phase A. - Incorporate phase C with stirring. Example D: serum

  A- Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide (HOSTACERINE AMPS) 2.00 g 10 Preservatives 0.85 g Aqueous extract of arabinoxylan (COHELISS SILAB) 5g Water qs

  In the morning, the area of skin to be treated is massaged with a hand massage instrument of the Environ Cosmetic Roll-Cit type. The duration of the massage can range from 1 minute to several minutes to optimize the desired effect on the homeostasis of the skin and / or the mechanical properties of the skin. And we apply in the evening the composition described above.5

Claims (24)

  A method of cosmetic skin care comprising the simultaneous or sequential application of: (i) a composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin; (ii) a device for controlled application of mechanical stresses on the skin.   2. A method of cosmetic skin care according to claim 1, characterized in that the device for generating mechanical stress on the skin is a massage instrument selected from a manual massage instrument or a massage instrument requiring a contribution of outside energy.   3. Cosmetic skin care process according to claim 1, characterized in that the device for generating mechanical stresses on the skin is a particularly adhesive support capable of generating tension and / or pressure on the skin.   4. Method according to claim 3, characterized in that the particular adhesive support is a patch.   5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin is contained in a reservoir of said device and released at the time of the application on the skin of said device.   6. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the skin cells present in the composition is a saccharide compound increasing the expression of integrins in cells. skin.   7. Method according to claim 6, characterized in that said saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin has a molecular weight of less than 60 kD, preferably less than 40 kD and even more preferably less than 20 kD.   8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the saccharide compound increasing the expression of integrins in skin cells is selected from monosaccharides, polysaccharides, and derivatives thereof.   9. Process according to claim 8, characterized in that the monosaccharides are in pyranose and / or furanose form and of L and / or D series, chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-galactose and D-mannose. -xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D- glucosamine, and N-acetyl-D-galactosamine.   10. Process according to claim 8, characterized in that the polysaccharides are chosen from polysaccharides containing up to 20 saccharide units chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose and D-maltotriose; a disaccharide associating a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, and N-acetyl -D-glucosamine; an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose advantageously chosen from xylobiose, methyl-13-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose; and xylan and its derivatives.   11. The method of claim 10, characterized in that the xylan derivative is arabinoxylan.   12. The process as claimed in claim 8, characterized in that the mono- or polysaccharide derivatives are C-glycoside compounds of general formula (I) ## STR2 ## in which: X represents a radical chosen from with R 1, R 2 and R 3 being, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an OH group or an R radical with R as defined below, R represents: linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, a linear, branched or cyclic polyfluoro or perfluoro-C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, or an aryl radical, in particular phenyl radical; C5-C20 alkylaryl, in particular benzyl, the hydrocarbon-based chain constituting said radicals being able, if appropriate, to be interrupted by 1, 2, 3 or more heteroatoms chosen from: - oxygen, - sulfur, -l nitrogen, and - silicon, and may be optionally substituted by at least one rad ical chosen from: - -OR4, - -S Ra, - -NR4R5, -COOR4, -CONHR4, -CN, -a halogen atom, R3- a polyfluoro or perfluoro-C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical a C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl or heterocycloalkyl radical; and a C 5 to C 8 aryl radical, optionally substituted, with R 4 and R 5 being able to represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or an alkyl, acyl, perfluoroalkyl or polyfluoroalkyl radical C, to Cao, especially C, to ci, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, - S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units , in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and in series L and / or D, said mono- or polysaccharide possibly being substituted by a radical (CH 2) -OR 6, with R 6 representing a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl radical, with a hydroxyl group and / or with an O-glycoside radical, and having at least one and the S-C bond represents a C-anomeric bond, or a salt or isomer thereof.   13. Process according to claim 12, characterized in that S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, D-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose and preferentially D-xylose.   14. Method according to one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that X represents in the formula (I) a function: C O or a unit: H OH   15. Method according to one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that R represents in the formula (I) a linear or branched alkyl radical and saturated C, to C6 and in particular a methyl radical.   16. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.00001 to 30% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.   17. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it aims to improve the homeostasis of the skin, in particular to maintain and / or increase the thickness of the skin, to smooth out wrinkles and fine lines and / or improve the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.   18. Cosmetic kit comprising at least: a composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin; and a device for controlled application of mechanical stresses on the skin.   19. Kit according to claim 18, characterized in that the device for applying in a controlled manner mechanical stress on the skin is a massage instrument chosen from a manual massage instrument or a massage instrument requiring external energy input. .   20. Kit according to claim 18, characterized in that the device for generating mechanical stresses on the skin is a particularly adhesive support capable of generating tension and / or pressure on the skin.   21. Kit according to claim 20, characterized in that the particular adhesive support is a patch.   22. Kit according to any one of claims 18 to 21, characterized in that the composition is contained in a reservoir of said device for applying in a controlled manner mechanical tension on the skin.   23. Kit according to any one of claims 18 to 22, characterized in that the saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors present in the composition is as defined in any one of claims 6 to 15. 1 .   24. Joint use of a composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in skin cells and a device for controlled application of mechanical stresses on the skin, said composition being intended to sensitize the cells of the skin with mechanical stresses induced by the application of said device and thus potentiate and / or prolong the effect of the mechanical stresses induced by the application of said device on the maintenance and / or the increase in the thickness of the skin, smoothing out wrinkles and fine lines and / or improving the mechanical properties of the skin.