FR2894468A1 - Water-in-oil emulsion composition, useful e.g. to attenuate skin irregularities, to smooth/harden the skin and/or to unify the complexion, comprises emulsifying silicone elastomer, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oil and wax - Google Patents

Abstract

Water-in-oil emulsion composition comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase, comprises an emulsifying silicone elastomer, hydrocarbon oils (>=30 wt.% of the oily phase), silicone oil and a wax. An independent claim is included for a cosmetic process to attenuate the visible/tactile skin irregularities, cutaneous wrinkles/ridules and/or spots, to smooth and/or harden the skin and/or to unify the complexion, comprising topical application of the composition on the skin. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

W / O emulsion for treating signs of aging

  relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O) comprising an organopolysiloxane elastomeric crosslinked oxyalkylenated, and its uses, in particular as a skincare product and more particularly in the field anti-aging for the treatment of the signs of aging.

  Cosmetic products known to be effective for smoothing wrinkles generally contain tensor effect active agents, which provide immediate effects of smoothing wrinkles by a mechanical action, or biological assets acting on wrinkles.

  Tensing agents can be, for example, polymers, vegetable proteins, mineral materials such as silica, etc. Although sometimes spectacular, the surface effects obtained with these tensor actives are superficial and last only a few hours. The wrinkle is not treated in depth but just temporarily dimmed on the surface thanks to a tightening effect.

  In addition, certain tensor active agents such as proteins are difficult to formulate because they tend to destabilize the compositions containing them. Other tensors such as polymers or silica sometimes lead to the formation of fluff when the composition containing them is applied to the skin. In addition, some tensors pose problems of cosmetic pleasure and comfort because they give compositions that have a dry, rough feel on the skin; they can also give a feeling of uncomfortable tugging, due to the tensor effect. These discomforts are more difficult to bear for older skin that suffer from dehydration and delipidation of the skin.

  The biological active agents acting on wrinkles are, for example, hydroxy acids, in particular α-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, and retinoids such as retinol. To be effective, these assets must be used for a long period of time (a few months) at fairly large concentrations. However, they have the disadvantage of causing tingling problems, discomfort, and redness especially for sensitive skin that does not tolerate them well. In addition, some assets tend to destabilize the compositions containing them.

  There is therefore still a need for a composition that makes it possible to treat wrinkles and signs of aging effectively and durably without causing problems of discomfort, sensory pleasure or stability.

  The Applicant has now found, surprisingly, that a composition of this type could be obtained by using a water-in-oil emulsion containing an emulsifying silicone elastomer and an oily phase (also called the oily phase) containing at least one wax, at least a silicone oil and at least 30% by weight of non-silicone oils. By emulsifying silicone elastomer is meant a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain. The oily phase includes oils and any fatty substances including emulsifying silicone elastomer.

  The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase, characterized in that it comprises an emulsifying silicone elastomer, at least 30% by weight of one or more hydrocarbon oils with respect to the total weight of the oily phase, at least one silicone oil and at least one wax.

  The composition being a cosmetic composition, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium. By physiologically acceptable medium is meant in the present invention, a nontoxic medium, compatible with the skin (including the interior of the eyelids), the mucous membranes, the hair or the lips of human beings. A cosmetic composition is a product having a pleasant appearance, odor and feel, and intended for topical application.

  In addition, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means a non-silicone oil, that is to say any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. .

  The composition of the invention has the advantage of effectively treating the signs of aging of the skin, and in particular the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin, while being comfortable and very well tolerated (softness, absence of irritation).

  By "silicone elastomer" is meant a partially or fully crosslinked organopolysiloxane, a flexible and deformable material having viscoelastic properties. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching.

  The emulsifying silicone elastomer used according to the invention is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrophilic chain, this chain possibly being oxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated. The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.

  The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane 40 which is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon (Al), and a polyoxyalkylene having at least two groups to ethylenic unsaturation (B1), especially in the presence of a catalyst (Cl), especially platinum catalyst, as described for example in US-A-5,236,986 and US-A-5,412,004.

  The compound (Al) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (Al) with the compound (B1) in the presence of the catalyst (Cl). The compound (B1) is advantageously an oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated compound having at least two vinyl groups in the α-w position of the silicone chain, which will react with Si-H bonds of the compound (Al). The compound (B1) may in particular be a polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations.

  The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (Al) can be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

  The compound (Al) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogensiloxane copolymers, cyclic methylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.

  Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum. on support.

  The catalyst (C1) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as a clean platinum metal for 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds ( A1) and (B1).

  In particular, the polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

  The polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably a polyoxyethylenated silicone elastomer.

  In addition, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is preferably gel-mediated in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylene elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.

  Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers are especially described in US-A-5,236,986, US-A-5,412,004, US-A-5,837,793, US-A-5,811,487, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

  Suitable polyoxyethylenated silicone elastomers are those marketed by Shin Etsu under the names: - KSG-21 (27% active ingredient INCI name Dimethicone / PEG-10 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG 20% (to 95% active ingredient, INCI name: PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer), - KSG-30, (100% active ingredient, INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), -KSG-31 ( 25% active ingredient INCI name: Lauryl PEG-15 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-32 or KSG-42 or KSG-320 or KSG-30 (25% active ingredient INCI name: Lauryl PEG- Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), - KSG-33 (20% active ingredient), - KSG-210 (25% active ingredient, INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer), - KSG-310: Lauryl modified polyoxyethylenesiloxane modified polydimethylsiloxane in mineral oil (mineral oil) - KSG-330, -KSG-340, - X-226146 (at 32% relative to INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10 dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), or those marketed by Dow Corning under the names: DC9010 (9% active ingredient. INCI name: PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer) - DC9011 (at 11% active ingredient). These products are generally in the form of oily gels containing the silicone elastomer particles.

  KSG-210 (INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer) which is 25% active material of silicone elastomer in silicone oil is preferably used.

  The emulsifying silicone elastomer may also be chosen from polyglycerolated silicone elastomers. The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane obtainable in particular by crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen (A2) and a polyglycerolated compound having ethylenically unsaturated groups. (B2), especially in the presence of catalyst (C2), especially platinum catalyst.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reacting a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerol compound and a trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogen polysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

  The compound (A2) is the base compound for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2). The compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. The compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B2).

  The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A2) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

  The compound (A2) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogensiloxane copolymers, cyclic methylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.

  The compound (B2) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the following formula (B'2): CmH2m 1-0- [Gly] n-CmH2m-1 (B'2) in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 n is an integer from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, more preferably from 2 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 10, and most preferably from 2 to 5, and in particular is equal to 3; Gly means: -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2-O- or -CH2-CH (CH2OH) -O-

  Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A2) is at least 4.

  It is advantageous that the compound (A2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to 40 silicon atoms in the compound (A2) and the total amount of all the groups with ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (B2) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1.

  Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the amount. total of the compounds (A2) and (B2).

  The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.

  Such elastomers are described in particular in document WO-A-2004/024798. As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, those sold under the names: KSG-710 (25% active ingredient, INCI name: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer), KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, - KSG-840, by the company Shin Etsu. Preferably, the emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in the composition of the invention in an amount (of active material) ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably more preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight and more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The emulsifying silicone elastomer is generally introduced into the oily phase. and is part of this oily phase. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of emulsifier other than emulsifying silicone elastomers.

  Oily phase The oily phase consists of the oils and all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents that may be present in the composition of the invention, including the silicone elastomer.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily phase contains at least one hydrocarbon oil, at least one silicone oil and at least one wax.

  The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.). On the other hand, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means a non-silicone oil, that is to say any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol.

  Hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include, for example: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631); linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil. - and their mixtures.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily phase contains 30 as hydrocarbon oils, at least one linear or branched hydrocarbon, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil.

  The oily phase of the composition of the invention contains at least 30% by weight of hydrocarbon oils relative to the total weight of the oily phase. The amount of hydrocarbon oils may range, for example, from 30 to 80% of the total weight of the oily phase, preferably from 30 to 70% and more preferably from 32 to 60% of the total weight of the oily phase.

  In addition, the oily phase contains at least one silicone oil. As silicone oils, mention may be made of volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the silicone oil is chosen from volatile silicone oils such as cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylsiloxanes having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 cSt at 25 C.

  The weight ratio between the amount of hydrocarbon oils and the amount of silicone oils is preferably from 0.3 to 2.

  The composition according to the invention contains at least one wax. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than 30 ° C. and up to at 200 ° C., a hardness of preferably greater than 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization.

  The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. To perform the hardness measurement, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 C. The melted wax is cast in a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours and then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement. The value of the hardness is the measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

  The waxes, in the sense of the application, may be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions.

  The wax used in the composition of the invention may especially be chosen from waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives; waxes of plant origin such as candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax; microcrystalline waxes; ozokerites; 25 C-hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil; polyethylene waxes such as those sold under the names "Performalene 400 Polyethylene" by the company New Phase Technologies; polymethylene waxes, such as the product sold under the name Cirebelle 303 by the company Sasol (INCI name: Synthetic wax); silicone waxes such as polyalkyl C24-C28 methyl dimethyl siloxane such as that sold under the name "ABIL WAX 9810" by the company Goldschmidt; butters of plant origin such as palm butter, cocoa butter and shea butter; C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the name "Kester WAX K82H" by Kester Keunen; stearyl benzoate; Shellac wax; montan wax; and their mixtures.

  According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the wax is chosen from polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, vegetable butters, shellac wax and waxes. silicones, and mixtures thereof.

  The composition of the invention may contain one or more waxes, and the amount of wax (s) may range, for example, from 0.2 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 80% by weight and better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In addition to hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and waxes, the composition of the invention may contain other fatty substances in the oily phase, and for example fatty substances chosen from: fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol ; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl -4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; silicone gums (dimethiconol), non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the names KSG 6 or KSG 16 by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Corning or under the names Gransil by the company Grant Industries; - their mixtures.

  The oily phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 10 to 60% and preferably from 15 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Aqueous Phase The amount of aqueous phase may range from 40 to 90% by weight and preferably from 60 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase comprises water and hydrophilic adjuvants (active or additive). The water preferably represents at least 30% of the total weight of the composition, and for example from 30 to 90%, preferably from 40 to 80% by weight and better still from 45 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. the composition. As hydrophilic adjuvants, there may be mentioned in particular monoalcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, and polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose; and their mixtures.

  In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants which are customary in the cosmetic field, such as active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, complexing agents, solvents, fragrances, fillers, bactericidal agents, odor absorbers, dyestuffs (dyes and pigments) and lipid vesicles. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles.

  These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the desired property for the composition of the invention.

  As fillers which may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of silica and in particular silica microspheres such as those sold under the name SB150 by the company Myoshi; talcum; kaolin; glass and ceramic beads marketed by 3M under the trade name MACROLITE; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the names ORGASOL by the company Atochem; unexpanded synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polystyrene, polyester, polyamide (e.g. nylon or poly-β-alanine) powders, acrylate copolymers (e.g. microporous microspheres sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade name POLYTRAP), polymethacrylic acids, Teflon (polytetrafluoroethylene or PTFE) such as the products sold under the names FLUON by the company Uniqema and the product sold under the name FLUOROPURE 812C by the company Shamrock (powder PTFE having a particle size of 12 m); expanded powders such as hollow microspheres made of thermoplastic material prepared by known processes, such as those described in US-A-3,615,972 and EP-A-0 56219, and in particular, the microspheres sold under the names Expancel by the company Kemanord Piast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as starch (corn, wheat or rice), crosslinked or unmodified, modified or unmodified powders, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY-FLO by National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains at least one filler, preferably at least one filler selected from expanded powders, starch powders, silicas, polyamides, and mixtures thereof.

  The amount of fillers is preferably less than or equal to 8% of the total weight of the composition, and better still less than or equal to 5% of the total weight of the composition. When present, these fillers may be in amounts ranging for example from 0.05 to 8% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more active agents and in particular one or more anti-aging active agents. The anti-aging (or anti-aging) active ingredient can be any active agent capable of treating or preventing any sign of aging of the skin.

  The active agents may be chosen for example from moisturizing agents; anti-free radical agents; keratolytic and desquamating agents; vitamins; anti-elastase and anti-collagenase agents; trace elements; seaweed or plankton extracts; enzymes and co-enzymes; flavonoids and isoflavonoids; ceramides; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes; tensors; anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents; and myorelaxant or dermo-decontracting agents; and their mixtures.

  Examples of active agents that may be mentioned include (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEP ES); hyaluronic acid; lanolin; urea, mixtures containing urea, such as NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), and urea derivatives such as N- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea (Hydrovance from National Starch); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine); α-hydroxy acids, especially acids derived from fruits, such as glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, tartaric and mandelic acids, their derivatives and mixtures thereof; 13-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid or n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; α-ketoacids such as ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives such as its salts such as sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate; its esters such as ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl propionate, or its sugars such as glycosylated ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof; 13-keto acids; retinoids such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives, as well as the retinoids described in documents FR-A-2,570,377, EP-A-199,636, EP-A-325 540, EP-A-402,072, EP-A-325,540, EP-A-402,072; carotenoids such as lycopene; ceramides; sapogenins and plant extracts containing them, in particular extracts of Wild Yam; resveratrol; pseudodipeptides such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethylphenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid; vitamins, for example, in addition to the vitamins A and C indicated above, vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B3 (or vitamin PP or niacinamide), vitamin B5 (panthenol in its various forms: D-panthenol, DL panthenol), vitamin D, vitamin F (a mixture of essential fatty acids), derivatives, precursors and analogues of these vitamins; soy extracts, particularly soy protein hydrolysates or isoflavone-rich soy extracts; trace elements such as copper, zinc, selenium, iron, magnesium, manganese; algae extracts such as the product marketed under the name STIMODERM by the company CLR; plankton extracts such as plankton in aqueous dispersion (CTFA name: Vitreoscilla Ferment) marketed under the name MEXORYL SAH by the company Chimex; enzymes; coenzymes such as ubiquinone or coenzyme Q10 which belongs to the family of alkaline chain benzoquinones, coenzyme R which is biotin (or vitamin H); yeast extracts such as the extract of s.cerevisiae sold under the name CYTOVITIN LS 9388 by the Serobiobiology laboratories; adenosine; plant extracts such as licorice extract; soothing agents such as bisabolol and soothing plant extracts such as rose extract (rosa gallica) and mint extracts (mentha piperita); and any suitable active for the final purpose of the composition, and mixtures thereof.

  The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds its application in a large number of cosmetic treatments of the skin, including the scalp and the mucous membranes (lips), in particular for the treatment of the signs of aging of the skin, in particular to reduce visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular to reduce wrinkles, fine lines and skin spots, to smooth the skin, to even out the complexion of the skin.

  Indeed, panel tests have shown very good anti-wrinkle effects, and also effects of improving the tone, firmness and extensibility of the skin, as well as moisturizing effects. In addition, the texture was found to be very pleasant to use.

  Also, the subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, for the care of the skin, in particular for the treatment of the signs of aging of the skin.

  The present invention also relates to a cosmetic skin care method comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition.

  The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular for reducing wrinkles and / or skin spots and / or smoothing and / or firming the skin and / or or unifying the complexion, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition as defined above.

  The following examples of compositions according to the invention are given by way of illustration and without limitation. The compounds are indicated in chemical name or INCI name. Quantities are given in% by weight unless otherwise stated. Example 1 Cream for the Treatment of Wrinkles A. Oily Phase - Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam Oil) -Cyclohexamethicone - Polymethylene Wax (Cirebelle 303) - KSG-210 = Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer 45 (at 25% by weight) active ingredient in dimethicone) (ie 4% silicone elastomer and 12% dimethicone) B. Aqueous phase - Glycerine 50 - Magnesium sulphate 7 8 2

  16 7/0 0.7 / 0 - Water qs 100 0/0 C. Charges 2 0/0 Expancel Dry Flo 0.3 0/0 Procedure: the two phases were prepared separately and the aqueous phase was slowly introduced in the oily phase with stirring under heat (about 70 ° C), then the charges were added.

  A white cream having a viscosity of 70 poise (7 Pa. $) Was obtained from Rheomat 180 (mobile 4).

  This cream has been the subject of several tests on the panel of users, and these tests have shown: effects of improving the tone, firmness and extensibility of the skin; 85% of people found a skin firming and smoothing effect, and 82% found an effect on the radiance of the complexion, anti-wrinkle effects at 4 weeks, measured by skin tests. wrinkle marks, - persistent moisturizing effects; - a very good appreciation of the texture.

  Thus, this cream thus brings many benefits for the skin, in particular the fading of wrinkles, the smoothing, firming, nutrition and hydration of the skin, and it constitutes a complete anti-aging care.

  Moreover, we tried to see if this anti-wrinkle effect was due to a tightening effect. By definition, a tensing agent is an agent producing at a concentration of 7% in water an isolated stratum corneum shrinkage, measured with an extensometer, of more than 1%, and preferably more than 1.5% to 30 C under a relative humidity of 40%.

  The principle of the tensor effect measurement method is to measure the length of a stratum corneum specimen isolated from human skin from a surgical procedure, before and after treatment with the potential tightening agent.

  To do this, the test piece is placed between the two jaws of the apparatus, one of which is fixed and the other movable, in an atmosphere at 30 ° C. and 40% relative humidity. Traction is exerted on the test piece, and the curve of the force (in grams) is recorded as a function of the length (in millimeters), the zero length corresponding to the contact between the two jaws of the apparatus. The tangent is then drawn to the curve in its linear region. The intersection of this tangent with the abscissa axis corresponds to the apparent length Lo of the zero force specimen. The test piece is then relaxed and then 2 mg / cm 2 of the composition to be tested is applied to the stratum corneum. After 15 minutes of drying, the above steps are again used to determine the length L, of the specimen after treatment. The retraction percentage is defined as: 0/0 retraction = 100 x (L1-Lo) / Lo. To characterize a tensor effect, this percentage must be negative and the tensor effect is all the more important as the absolute value of the retraction percentage is high. In this test, the composition of the invention gave a value of 0.02. This test showed that this anti-wrinkle effect of the composition of Example 1 was not due to a tightening effect, as might have been suggested by the presence of waxes, but was due to a real effect of corrections of the signs of aging. . Example 2 Cream for wrinkle treatment A. Oily phase - Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam oil) - Cyclohexamethicone 8% - Beeswax 2% - KSG-210 = Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer 16 0 / 0 (at 25% active ingredient in dimethicone) (ie 4% silicone elastomer and 12% dimethicone) 7% B. Aqueous phase - Glycerine - Magnesium sulphate 0.7% - Water qs 100 0 / C. Charges 20% Expancel Dry Flo 0.3% Method: The two phases were prepared separately and the aqueous phase was slowly introduced into the oily phase with stirring under heat (about 70 ° C.). Then, the charges were added.

  A white cream having a viscosity of 70 poise (7 Pa. $) Was obtained from Rheomat 180 (mobile 4). having the same properties as that of Example 1.

Claims (18)

  1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase, characterized in that it comprises an emulsifying silicone elastomer, at least 30% by weight of one or more hydrocarbon-based oils relative to the total weight of the oily phase, at least one silicone oil and at least one wax.   2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the emulsifying silicone elastomer is chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.   3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganosiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in the presence of catalyst.   4. Composition according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer is a polyoxyethylenated silicone elastomer.   5. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganosiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, in the presence of catalyst.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone oil is chosen from volatile silicone oils.   9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio between the amount of hydrocarbon oils and the amount of silicone oils ranges from 0.3 to 2.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is chosen from polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, butters of vegetable origin, wax of Shellac, silicone waxes, and mixtures thereof. 50   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of wax (s) ranges from 0.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase is present in an amount ranging from 10 to 60% relative to the total weight of the composition.   13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least 30% water by weight, and preferably at least 40% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further contains at least one filler selected from expanded powders, starch powders, silicas, polyamides, and mixtures thereof.   15. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the amount of charge is less than or equal to 8% of the total weight of the composition.   16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further contains one or more active agents chosen from moisturizing agents; anti-free radical agents; keratolytic and desquamating agents; vitamins; anti-elastase and anti-collagenase agents; trace elements; seaweed or plankton extracts; enzymes and co-enzymes; flavonoids and isoflavonoids; ceramides; antiglycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes; tensors; anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents; and myorelaxant or dermo-decontracting agents; and their mixtures. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, for the care of the skin. 18. Cosmetic process for attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular for attenuating wrinkles and / or skin spots and / or smoothing and / or firming the skin and / or unifying the complexion, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16.