FR2864775A1 - Cosmetic composition useful as a hair conditioner comprises a cationic surfactant, a noncellulosic thickening polymer and a stringy polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises a cationic surfactant, a noncellulosic thickening polymer (I) and a stringy polymer (II) with a string length of more than 5 cm. An independent claim is also included for cosmetic treatment of keratinic materials by applying a composition as above and rinsing it off.

Description

2864775 1

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair conditioning composition, comprising a cationic surfactant, at least one non-cellulosic thickening polymer and at least one high-molecular-weight polymer. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION particular molecular weight and a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular the hair.

  It is well known that hair which has been sensitized (ie damaged and / or embrittled) to varying degrees under the action of atmospheric agents or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as colorations, discolorations and / or perms, are often difficult to disentangle and comb, and lack softness.

  It has already been proposed for the treatment of keratin materials and in particular hair, cosmetic compositions containing cationic surfactants and thickening polysaccharides such as in particular starch or celluloses.

  However, such compositions have drawbacks such as rinsability problems, stability problems, distribution difficulties on keratinous materials as well as insufficient cosmetic properties.

  It has already been advocated in the compositions for washing or caring for keratin materials such as the hair, the use of cationic polymers, cationic silicones or cationic surfactants to facilitate disentangling of the hair and to impart to it softness and suppleness. The use of cationic polymers or cations for this purpose has various disadvantages.

  Because of their high affinity for the hair, some of these polymers deposit significantly during repeated use, and lead to undesirable effects such as unpleasant, loaded, stiffening of the hair, and adhesion. interfiber affecting styling.

  In addition it is most often necessary to use a second product to give a shape to the hair and fix the hairstyle.

  In summary, it turns out that the current cosmetic conditioning compositions do not give complete satisfaction. Thus, it is sought to obtain cosmetic compositions having rinsed styling properties equivalent to those of fixing gels or lacquers while having good conditioning properties.

  The Applicant has now discovered that the combination of a cationic surfactant, certain polymers having a particular spinning power and a noncellulosic thickening polymer, especially in non-detergent media having a low or no concentration of washing surfactants to overcome these disadvantages.

  The hair treated with this composition is smooth, disentangles easily are shiny, flexible, individualized and have a soft touch and without residues. The hair has a natural appearance and not loaded.

  Thus, according to the present invention, it is now proposed new non-washing cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one cationic surfactant, at least one non-cellulosic thickening polymer and at least one polymer having superior spinning power. at 5 cm.

  Another object of the invention consists in a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular the hair using the aforementioned composition.

  The invention further relates to the use of said composition as a conditioner.

  Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the various examples which follow.

  The spinning power of a polymer corresponds to the length of the polymer yarn obtained at the breaking of said yarn according to the procedure defined below.

  The spinning power of the polymers that can be used according to the invention is that measured for a composition containing (% by weight): Sodium lauryl ether sulphate oxyethylenated with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide 12.5% Cocoamidopropylbetaine 2.5% Polymer to test 1 Water qs 100%.

  The measurement of the spinning power is done using a texture analyzer TATX2 (Rhéo / stable Micro Systems) The measurement is done after compression of the product: - Displacement of the disc (cylinder 35 mm in aluminum) with the speed of 2 , 5 mm / s and detection of the compressive strength Penetration in the product at the same speed to a depth of 10 mm - Removal of the probe at a speed of 2.5 mm / s 2864775 4 - Measurement of the displacement of the Probe and detection of the breakage of the product wire According to the present invention, the polymers having a spinning power of greater than 5 cm will also be called strand polymers.

  The polymers having a spinning power greater than 5 cm are in particular either (a1) a dispersion of particles of a water-soluble polymer having a weight average molecular weight greater than 106 in an aqueous salt solution, obtained by heterogeneous radical polymerization of water-soluble monomers with precipitating the polymer formed, at least one of the monomers being cationic or (a2) an aqueous solution of a water-soluble polymer having a weight average molecular weight greater than 106, obtained by heterogeneous radical polymerization of water-soluble monomers with precipitation of the polymer formed, at least one of the monomers being cationic.

  The water-soluble polymer of high molecular weight is a polyelectrolyte polymerized from at least one cationic monomer of formula (I). As indicated above, the synthesis of the high molecular weight water soluble polymers used in the present invention is by heterogeneous radical polymerization of water-soluble monomers having at least one ethylenic unsaturation. The polymerization is carried out in an aqueous solution of a mineral electrolyte (salt) having an ionic strength sufficient to cause the precipitation of the formed polymer as soon as it reaches a certain molecular weight. This polymerization technique thus makes it possible, thanks to the well-known salt-salting-out phenomenon, to produce aqueous saline dispersions of water-soluble polymer particles. The polymers thus synthesized are distinguished by a high weight average molecular weight, generally greater than 106.

  The heterogeneous radical polymerization technique in an aqueous medium with precipitation of the polymer formed is described, for example, in US Pat. No. 4,929,655, in the patent application EP 0 943 628 or in the international application WO 02134796.

  To ensure the stability of the dispersions of polymer particles during synthesis and during storage, it is generally essential to perform the polymerization in the presence of a dispersing agent. This dispersing agent is preferably a polyelectrolyte which, unlike the high molecular weight polymer used in the invention, is soluble in the aqueous medium of high ionic strength polymerization.

  This dispersing polyelectrolyte preferably has a charge identical to that of the synthesized polymer, in other words for the synthesis of cationic polyelectrolytes, a cationic dispersing polyelectrolyte is generally used.

  As preferred dispersing agents, mention may be made of cationic polyelectrolytes obtained by polymerization of from 50 to 100 mol% of at least one cationic monomer chosen from the salts, preferably the hydrochlorides or sulphates, of dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate. , N-dimethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylamide or di (meth) allylamine, (meth) acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, (meth) acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, and from 50 to 0 molar acrylamide. It is also possible to use a polyamine such as a polyalkyleneamine.

  The dispersing agent is preferably used in a proportion of 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the monomers to be polymerized.

  The aqueous saline solution which serves as a synthesis and dispersion medium for the water-soluble polymer of high molecular weight is a solution of one or more mineral salts preferably chosen from divalent anionic salts. As anionic salts, mention may be made, for example, of ammonium sulphate, ammonium hydrogen sulphate, sodium sulphate, sodium hydrogen sulphate, magnesium sulphate, magnesium hydrogen sulphate and sulphate. aluminum and aluminum hydrogen sulfate. Ammonium sulfate and sodium sulfate are particularly preferred.

  The concentration of this salt (s) should preferably be sufficient to induce the precipitation of the water-soluble polymer formed in the polymerization medium. To obtain such a precipitation, the salt concentration is preferably at least 15% by weight and can go up to the saturation concentration of each salt. The aqueous salt solution may further contain monovalent salts such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

  Heterogeneous radical polymerization in an aqueous medium as described above is most often accompanied by a significant increase in the viscosity of the reaction medium, which results in stirring difficulties, a lack of homogeneity of the reaction medium, and an enlargement of the particle size of the polymer particles formed. To prevent such an increase in viscosity, it has been proposed in European Patent Application EP 0 943 628 to add to the polymerization medium at least one agent preventing the increase of the viscosity of the reaction medium during polymerization. .

  The water-soluble, high molecular weight polymers used in the present invention are preferably prepared in the presence of such an agent to prevent the increase in viscosity.

  These agents preventing the increase in the viscosity of the reaction medium are chosen, for example, from (1) polycarboxylic acids and their salts, (2) polyphenols, (3) cyclic compounds containing a hydroxy group and a carboxy group, or their salts, (4) gluconic acid or its salts, (5) the reaction products obtained by reaction of a methoxyhydroquinone and / or (meth) acrylic cationic monomer with a compound which generates radicals under an atmosphere (6) the reaction products obtained by reacting a cationic (meth) acrylic polymer with a compound which generates radicals under an oxidizing atmosphere; (7) the reaction products obtained by reaction of a cationic polymer. (meth) acrylic with an oxidizing agent, and mixtures thereof.

  The addition of at least one viscosity-increasing agent as described above makes it possible to carry out the polymerization of the water-soluble monomers described above with a low-power stirrer while avoiding the formation of coarse particles. The agents preventing the increase of the viscosity are preferably soluble in the aqueous reaction medium.

  Examples of compounds (A) include oxalic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, phthalic acid and their salts.

  Examples of compounds (B) that may be mentioned include resorcinol and pyrogallol.

  Examples of compounds (C) include mhydroxybenzoic acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid, salicylic acid, gallic acid, tannic acid and salts thereof.

  As examples of compounds (D), mention may be made of sodium gluconate, potassium gluconate, ammonium gluconate and various amino salts of gluconic acid.

  Examples of compounds (E) include those obtained by reacting a radical generating compound under a stream of oxygen gas in a solution containing methoxyhydroquinone and / or (meth) acrylic cationic monomer. The compound that generates radicals may be an initiator commonly used for radical polymerization. Mention may be made, for example, of water-soluble azo initiators such as 2,2'-azo-bis (2-amidinopropane) hydrochloride sold, for example, under the name V-50 by the company Wako Chemical Industries, or the hydrochloride of 2.2 azo-bis [2- (2-imidazolin-2-yl) propane] sold for example under the trade name 2864775 8 VA-044 by the company Wako Chemical Industries, or an initiator of the group of water-soluble redox reductors such as ammonium persulfate / sodium hydrogen sulfite combination.

  An agent preventing the increase of the viscosity (F) can be obtained by reacting a radical initiator, under an oxygenated atmosphere, with a dispersing agent according to the invention. The polymerization initiator may be a water-soluble azo initiator or a water-soluble redox as described above.

  The compounds (G) can be obtained in the form of low molecular weight oxidized polymers by oxidation of a cationic dispersing agent according to the invention obtained by polymerization of a (meth) acrylic cationic monomer, using as oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide or halogen.

  As (meth) acrylic cationic monomers used for the preparation of the agents preventing the increase of the viscosity (E), (F) and (G), mention may be made, for example, of the hydrochloride or the sulphate of dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, (meth) acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, (meth) acryloyloxyethyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, hydrochloride or sulfate derived from N-dimethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylamide, (meth) acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, (meth) acrylate chloride or dimethylaminohydroxypropyl, (meth) acryloyloxyhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, (meth) acryloyloxyhydroxypropyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride.

  These agents preventing the increase of the viscosity (A) to (G) may be used alone or as a mixture, in an amount preferably of between ppm and 10,000 ppm relative to the total weight of the reaction solution.

  The water-soluble monomers polymerized by heterogeneous radical polymerization to obtain water-soluble polymers of high molecular weight are monomers comprising at least one ethylenic double bond, for example a vinyl, acrylic or allyl double bond. They may be cationic, anionic or nonionic and may be used in admixture.

  Examples of water-soluble anionic monomers include acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and itaconic acid. These anionic monomers are at least partially neutralized in the form of a salt of an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, ammonium or an organic amine such as an alkanolamine including ethanolamine.

  As water-soluble nonionic monomers, mention may be made of acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-vinylformamide, Nvinylacetonamide, hydroxypropyl acrylate and hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

  The water-soluble cationic monomers are preferably chosen from di (C 1-4 alkyl diallyl ammonium) salts and compounds of formula (I) 1 R (I) D, NR 2 X R 4 R 3 in which R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group R 2 and R 3, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1-4 alkyl group, R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1-4 alkyl group or an aryl group, D represents the following unit -EY) n (Ai in which Y represents an amide function (-CO-NH-), ester (O-CO- or CO-25 O-), urethane (-O-CO-NH-) or urea (-NH-CO-NH-), A represents a linear, branched or cyclic C1-10 alkyl group, which may be substituted or interrupted by an aromatic or divalent heteroaromatic ring, or may be interrupted by a chosen heteroatom among O, N, S and P, and which may comprise a ketone, amide, ester, urethane or urea function, n is 0 or 1, and X- represents an anionic counterion such as a chloride or sulfate ion.

  Examples of water-soluble cationic monomers that may be mentioned include dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate hydrochloride or sulfate, (meth) acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, (meth) acryloyloxyethyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, hydrochloride or N dimethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylamide, (meth) acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, (meth) acrylamidopropyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, dimethylaminohydroxypropyl (meth) acrylate sulfate or (meth) acrylate, (meth) acryloyloxyhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, (meth) acrylate ) acryloyloxyhydroxypropyl-dimethylbenzylammonium and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.

  In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the high molecular weight water-soluble polymer is obtained by heterogeneous radical polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising from 0 to 30 mol% of acrylic acid, from 0 to 95.5% in moles of acrylamide and from 0.5 to 100 mol% of at least one cationic monomer of formula (I).

  According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble polymers are obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers consisting of acrylic acid and a cationic monomer of formula (I), in which the number of moles of cationic monomer of formula ( I) is greater than the number of moles of acrylic acid.

  Particularly preferred water-soluble polymers are, for example, those polymerized from monomer mixtures consisting respectively of 10 mol% of acryloyloxyethyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and 90 mol% of acrylamide.

  2. 30 mol% of acryloyloxytrimethylammonium chloride, 50 mol% of acryloyloxyethyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and 20 mol of acrylamide.

  3. 10 mol% acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride and 90 mol% acrylamide.

  4. 30 mol% diallyldimethylammonium chloride and 70 mol% acrylamide.

  The water-soluble polymer of high molecular weight can also be an anionic polyelectrolyte polymerized from a mixture of anionic monomers and nonionic monomers. By way of example of such an anionic polyelectrolyte, there may be mentioned a copolymer obtained from a mixture of 30 mol% of acrylic acid and 70 mol% of acrylamide.

  The water-soluble polymers used in the present invention have a weight average molecular weight greater than 1,000,000, preferably between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and more particularly between 1,000,000 and 20,000,000. Weight is determined by the Reduced Specific Viscosity (RSV) method as defined in Principles of Polymer Chemistry, Cornell University Press, Ithaca, NY, 1953, Chapter VII, Determination of Molecular Weight, pages 266,316.

  The spinning polymers used in the present invention preferably have a weight average molecular weight greater than 1,000,000, preferably between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000. This weight average molecular weight is determined by the RSV method (Reduced Specific Viscosity) as defined in Principles of Polymer Chemistry, Cornell University Press, Ithaca, NY, 1953, Chapter VII entitled Determination of Molecular Weight, pages 266,316.

  The concentration of the high molecular weight water-soluble polymer dispersion or solution is preferably chosen so that the concentration of the water-soluble polymer is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 0.05% by weight. and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

  The concentration of the spinning polymer according to the invention is preferably between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

  The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants that are well known per se, such as primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

  As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made, for example, of: - those which have the following general formula (V): + R N. R3 R2 R4 X- (V) in which the symbols R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C 2 -C 6), alkylamide, (C 12 C 22) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22) alkyl acetate, hydroxyalkyl radicals, comprising from about 1 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon atoms; X- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 -C 6) alkyl sulphates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates; the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of the following formula (VI): CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 8) -CO-R 5 N 7 N 7 / R 7

R +

  X- (VI) in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow or coconut fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates. Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R 7 denotes methyl and R 8 denotes hydrogen. Such a product is for example Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997) marketed under the names "REWOQUAT" W 75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG by the company WITCO, - the diammonium quaternary salts of formula (VII): embedded image in which R 9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R 1 D, R 11, R 12, R 13 and R 14, R 9, R 11, R 11, R 13, R 13 and R 14, the same or different are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethylsulfates and methylsulfates. Such diammonium quaternary salts include in particular propane dichloride diammonium; quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VIII) below: CrH2rO) zR18 R17 C (O CnH2n) y N + (CpH2pO) X-R16) (R15 (VIII) in which: R15 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals; R16 is chosen from: O - the radical R1s C- - linear or branched, C1-C22 hydrocarbon radicals R20, which are saturated or unsaturated, - the hydrogen atom, R17 is chosen from:

O

  the radical R21 C- - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon radicals R22, - the hydrogen atom,

O II

  R 17, R 19 and R 21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon radicals; r, n and p, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16 is R20 and that when z is 0 then R18 is R22.

  The alkyl radicals R15 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

  Preferably, R 15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

  When R16 is a hydrocarbon radical R20, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 18 is a hydrocarbon radical R 22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

  Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. or unsaturated.

  Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is 1.

  Preferably, r, n and p, identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are 2.

  The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or a (C1-C4) alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an organic acid derivative anion such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible ammonium ester anion.

  The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (IV) are used more particularly in which: R 15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, x and y are equal to 1; -z is 0 or 1; r, net pt are equal to 2; - R16 is chosen from: O n - the radical R19 C- - methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals, - the hydrogen atom; - R15 is chosen from:

O

H

  the radical R2 CC- - the hydrogen atom; - R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or branched C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals; unsaturated.

  Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

  There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (VIII) such as the salts (especially chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium and their mixtures. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil.

  When the compound contains several acyl radicals, the latter may be identical or different.

  These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, para-toluenesulfonate methyl, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol.

  Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYQUART by the company COGNIS, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 by the company REWOGOLDSCHMIDT.

  The composition according to the invention may preferably contain a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

  As a mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium methylsulphate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methylsulphate and 15 to 30% of methylsulphate. triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, acyl radicals having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and from partially hydrogenated palm oil.

  It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

  Among the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above, it is preferred to use those having the formula (V). On the one hand, mention may be made, on the one hand, of tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium chlorides. , cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL 70 by VAN DYK.

  The cationic surfactants that are particularly preferred in the composition of the invention are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, and in particular from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83 and behenylamidopropyl 2,3-dihydroxypropyl chloride. dimethyl ammonium and palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

  The composition according to the invention preferably contains the cationic surfactant (s) in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and more particularly from 0.2 to 5% by weight.

  By the term "non-cellulosic thickening polymer" is meant according to the invention a thickening polymer having no cellulose unit.

  The non-cellulosic thickeners according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin.

  They are especially chosen from: (i) homopolymers and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and / or amide type, (ii) homopolymers or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, and (iii) non-cellulosic polysaccharides.

  The purely synthetic thickening agents according to the invention are advantageously polymers or copolymers of acrylic and / or methacrylic acid, such as acrylic acid ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers. Examples of such polymers or copolymers are in particular the "carbomer" (CTFA) sold by the company Goodrich under the name Carbopol (CARBOPOL 980, 981, 954, 2984, 5984) or SYNTHALEN or the polyglyceryl methacrylate sold by the company GUARDIAN under the name Lubragel or the polyglyceryl acrylate sold under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA.

  Polyethylene glycols (PEG) and their derivatives can also be used as thickeners.

  The homopolymers and copolymers of crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the copolymers of acrylamide and of optionally crosslinked ammonium acrylate, the homopolymers and the optionally crosslinked copolymers of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride; copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, partially or totally neutralized, optionally crosslinked.

  As crosslinked copolymers of acrylamide 1 ammonium acrylate used in accordance with the present invention, there may be mentioned more particularly acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymers (5/95 by weight) crosslinked with an olefinic polyunsaturated crosslinking agent. such as divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylene bis-acrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ethers or allyl alcohol ethers of the sugar series, such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol or glucose.

  Analogous copolymers are described and prepared in FR-2,416,723 and US-2,798,053 and US-2,923,692. This type of crosslinked copolymer in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion consisting of approximately 30% by weight of the said copolymer, 25% by weight of paraffin oil and 4% by weight of the stearate mixture is especially used. sorbitan and a hydrophilic ethoxylated derivative and 41% by weight of water. Such an emulsion is marketed under the name "BOZEPOL C" by HOECHST.

  The copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, used in accordance with the present invention, are copolymers crosslinked with an olefinic polyunsaturated compound, such as those mentioned above, and partially or totally neutralized by a neutralizing agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or an amine such as triethanolamine or monoethanolamine.

  They can be prepared by copolymerizing acrylamide and 2-acrylamido sodium 2-methylpropane sulfonate by radical means by means of initiators of the azobisisobutyronitrile type and by precipitation in an alcohol such as tert-butanol.

  Copolymers obtained by copolymerization of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonate are used more particularly. The crosslinking agent is used at concentrations of 10-4 to 4 × 10 4 moles per mole of the monomer mixture.

  These particular copolymers are incorporated in the compositions of the invention, preferably in the form of water-in-oil emulsions containing from 35 to 40% by weight of this copolymer, from 15 to 25% by weight of a mixture. of C12-C13 isoparaffinic hydrocarbons, from 3 to 8% by weight of polyethylene glycol lauryl ether with 7 moles of ethylene oxide and water. Such an emulsion is marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 by the company SEPPIC.

  The crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyl oxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer used according to the invention is more particularly a copolymer obtained by copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, followed by crosslinking with a compound. with olefinic unsaturation, especially methylenebisacrylamide.

  More particularly, a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyl oxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (approximately 50% by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil is used. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE SC92" by the company CIBA.

  A cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloyl oxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used, preferably in the form of an inverse dispersion. These dispersions are in particular sold under the names "SALCARE SC95" and "SALCARE SC96" by the company CIBA.

  Uncrosslinked copolymers of methacrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride are, for example, the products sold under the trade names ROHAGIT KF 400 and KF720 by the company Rohm and Haas.

  Among the homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and / or amide type, mention may be made of polyamides, in particular the products sold under the names: CYANAMER P250 by CYTEC (polyacrylamide); methyl methacrylate copolymers 1 ethylene glycol dimethacrylate (PMMA MBX-8C by the company US COSMETICS); butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymers (ACRYLOID B66 by the company RHOM & HAAS), polymethyl methacrylate (BPA 500 by the company KOBO); The homo or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone are in particular chosen from crosslinked vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers such as the ACP-10 POLYMER marketed by ISP; The thickening polysaccharides are chosen in particular from glucans, modified or non-modified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables such as sweet pea, from tubers such as potatoes. or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen dextrans, mannans, xylans, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arabic, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their derivatives. ionic compounds (hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof.

  In general, the compounds of this type which can be used in the present invention are chosen from those described in particular in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896. -900, and volume 15, pp 439-458 ", in" Polymers in Nature, by EA MacGREGOR and CT GREENWOOD, John Wiley & Sons Editions, Chapter 6, pp 240-328, 1980 "and in the Industrial Gums Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, Edited by Roy L. WHISTLER, Second Edition, Academic Press Publishing Inc. ", the contents of these three works are fully included in this application for reference.

  Starches, guar gums and their derivatives will preferably be used.

  The polysaccharides may be modified or unmodified.

  The unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE, and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company Rhodia Chimie.

  The modified non-ionic guar gums are especially modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

  Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, there may be mentioned by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

  These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

  The level of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2.

  Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie or under the name GALACTASOL. 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.

  Preferably, the polymers of the cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention advantageously have, in solution or in dispersion, at 1% of active substance in water, a viscosity measured using Rheomat RM 180 rheometer, at 25 ° C., greater than 0 1 ps, and more preferably still greater than 0.2 cp, at a shear rate of 200 sec -1.

  According to the invention, the thickening polymer or polymers may represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight. of the final composition ..

  The composition according to the invention may optionally contain other surfactants than cationic surfactants.

  The surfactants are generally present in an amount of between 0.1% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 8% and even more preferably between 1% and 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention preferably contains at least one surfactant chosen from nonionic surfactants.

  Nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this connection "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R.

  PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a critical nature. Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (not limited to) polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alpha-diols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alkylphenols, or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated fatty acids or polyglycerolated, all these compounds having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups that can range from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucosamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkyl oxides or oxides N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. It will be noted that alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants that fall particularly well within the scope of the present invention.

  The concentration of the nonionic surfactants in the non-detergent compositions can vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight and more particularly from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The non-washing compositions (non-detergent) preferably comprise less than 4% by weight of anionic surfactants and more particularly less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one conditioning agent chosen from silicones, cationic polymers, carboxylic esters comprising at least 12 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils such as poly (alphaolefins), and mixtures thereof.

  The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition, and they may in particular be polyorganosiloxanes that are insoluble in the composition of the invention. They can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. They can be used pure or in emulsion, dispersion or microemulsion.

  Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

  When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly still from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and, preferably, 4 to 5. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

  Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxanelmethylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure: ## STR2 ## Examples of cyclic silicone mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and dicarboxylic acid, can also be mentioned. oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by TORAY SILICONE Silicones in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol 91, Jan. 76, 27-32 - TODD & BYERS Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics.

  Among the non-volatile silicones, there may be mentioned polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, gums and silicone resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.

  The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

  Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally containing C6-C24 alkyl groups such as the products known as dimethicone-copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) -methicone-copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE; alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxyl groups, such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FR-A-85 16334; acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US-A-4957732; anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, such as, for example, in the products described in patent EP 186 507 of the company Chisso Corporation, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin -ETSU; 2hydroxyalkylsulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulphate, such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL S201" and "ABIL S255"; hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2- 8413 from the company Dow Corning.

  By way of examples of silicones, use is preferably made of polydimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and polydimethylsiloxanes containing amino or alkoxylated groups.

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more carboxylic acid esters, such as, for example, compounds of formula RaCOORb in which Ra represents the residue of a higher fatty acid having from 4 to 29 carbon atoms and Rb represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as purcellin oil (stearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, isostearyl neopentanoate and their mixtures.

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more vegetable oils such as sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil and the like. jojoba, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, lemon safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil and their mixtures.

  As mineral oils, mention may in particular be made of liquid paraffin and liquid petroleum jelly.

  The conditioning agents are preferably contained in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more particularly ranging from 0%. 3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably aqueous and may comprise water or a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent such as a lower alcohol C1-C4, for example ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, n-butanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, glycerine; polyol ethers; C 5 -C 10 alkanes; and their mixtures. The solvents are preferably selected from glycerine and propylene glycol.

  The cosmetically acceptable medium, in particular aqueous, represents from 30 to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The solvents are preferably present in concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The pH of the compositions of the invention is from 2 to 8, preferably from 3 to 7.

  The compositions according to the invention may also contain conventional additives well known in the art, such as anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, non-polymeric thickeners such as acids or electrolytes, opacifiers, nacrants, vitamins, provitamines such as panthenol, waxes such as vegetable waxes, natural or synthetic ceramides, perfumes, dyes, organic or inorganic particles, preservatives, pH stabilizers.

  Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additives and their amount so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

  These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The compositions of the invention may be in the form of a conditioner to be rinsed or not, compositions for permanent, straightening, coloring or bleaching, or in the form of compositions to be rinsed, to be applied before or after a coloring. , discoloration, permanent or straightening or between the two stages of a perm or straightening.

  They can be used, for example, as after-shampoos, care, deep-care masks, lotions or creams for treating the scalp. These compositions may be rinsed or not rinsed.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition can be used as a conditioner, in particular on fine hair. This conditioner may be rinsed or not rinsed and preferably rinsed.

  The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, milk, cream, emulsion, fluid or thickening lotion or foam and may be used for the skin, the nails, the eyelashes, the lips and more. especially the hair.

  The compositions may be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump bottles or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in foam form. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for the treatment of the hair.

  The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances such as, for example, the skin or the hair, which consists in applying an effective amount of a cosmetic composition as described above, to keratin materials, to carry out a possible rinsing after a possible exposure time.

  The rinsing is carried out for example with water.

  Thus, this method according to the invention allows the maintenance of the hairstyle, the treatment, the conditioning, the care of the hair or any other keratin material.

  The following examples illustrate the present invention and should not be construed in any way as limiting the invention.

EXAMPLES 1 TO 3

  The following compositions of conditioner were prepared for rinsing: 1 2 3 Copolymer (30/70 mol) Acid - 1% MA - Acrylic / Acrylamide dispersed in concentrated aqueous saline solution Copolymer (90/10 mol) 1% MA - 0.5% MA of acrylamide and dimethylamino ethyl quaternized with benzyl chloride (MW> 5.106) in dispersion in a concentrated aqueous saline solution (ULTIMER from ONDEO) Behenyl trimethylammonium - - 1.5% MA chloride cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 2.5% MA 1.5% MA - Cetylstearyl alcohol - - 1.5% MA Amodimethicone 1.5% MA - (DC 939 from Dow Corning 35% MA) Cetyl alcohol - 0.8% MA - Di-starch phosphate 8% 8% MA - Polyquaternium- 37 / Ore ore / - - 1.5% MA PPG1 Trideceth 6 (SALCARE SC95 from CIBA) NaCl 2% - - Water qs 100% 100% 100%

Claims (4)

  Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one cationic surfactant, at least one non-cellulosic thickening polymer and at least one polymer having a spinning power greater than 5 cm.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the spinning polymer is chosen from: either (a1) a dispersion of particles of a water-soluble polymer having a weight average molecular weight greater than 106 in an aqueous salt solution, obtained by Heterogeneous radical polymerization of water-soluble monomers with precipitation of the polymer formed, at least one of the monomers being cationic or (a2) an aqueous solution of a water-soluble polymer having a weight average molecular weight greater than 106, obtained by heterogeneous radical polymerization of monomers water-soluble with precipitation of the polymer formed, at least one of the monomers being cationic.   3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the water-soluble monomer or monomers are chosen from cationic, anionic or nonionic monomers comprising at least one ethylenic double bond or a mixture thereof.   4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the anionic monomers are chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and itaconic acid.   5. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the nonionic monomers are chosen from acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-vinylformamide, N-vinylacetonamide, hydroxypropyl acrylate and methacrylate. hydroxypropyl.   6. Composition according to Claim 3, characterized in that the cationic monomers are chosen from the di (C 1-4 alkyl) diallylammonium salts and the compounds of formula (I) ## STR2 ## in which R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-4 alkyl group; linear or branched or aryl group, D represents the following unit EY) n (A *.   in which Y represents an amide, ester, urethane or urea function, A represents a linear, branched or cyclic C1-10 alkyene group which may be substituted or interrupted by a divalent aromatic or heteroaromatic ring, or which may be interrupted by a chosen heteroatom of O, N, S and P, and may comprise a ketone, amide, ester, urethane or urea function, n is 0 or 1, and X- represents anionic counterion such as a halide or sulfate ion. (I)   7- Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 6, characterized in that the water-soluble polymer is polymerized from at least one cationic monomer of formula (I).   8- Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the water-soluble polymer is polymerized from a monomer mixture consisting of 0 to 30 mol% of acrylic acid, from 0 to 95.5 mol% of acrylamide and from 0.5 to 100 mol% of at least one cationic monomer of formula (I).   9- Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the water-soluble polymer is polymerized from a mixture of monomers consisting of acrylic acid and a cationic monomer of formula (I), the number of moles of the cationic monomer of formula (I) being greater than the number of moles of acrylic acid.   10- Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the water-soluble polymer is polymerized from a monomer mixture consisting of 10 mol% of acryloyloxyéthyldiméthylbenzylammonium chloride and 90 mol% of acrylamide.   11- Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the water-soluble polymer is polymerized from a monomer mixture consisting of 30 mol% of acryloyloxytrimethylammonium chloride, 50 mol% of acryloyloxyéthyldiméthybenzylammonium chloride and 20 mol% of acrylamide.   12- Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the water-soluble polymer is polymerized from 10 mol% of acryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride and 90 mol% of acrylamide.   13- The composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the water-soluble polymer is polymerized from 30 mol% of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and 70 mol% of acrylamide.   14- Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 13, characterized in that the concentration of the water-soluble polymer particles dispersed in an aqueous salt solution in (a1) is between 0.01 and 20% by weight.   15- Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 14, characterized in that the concentration of the water-soluble polymer in solution in (a2) is between 0.01 and 20% by weight.   16. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 15, characterized in that the aqueous salt solution in (a1) or (a2) contains at least one anionic salt.   17- Composition according to Claim 16, characterized in that the anionic salt is chosen from ammonium sulphate, ammonium hydrogen sulphate, sodium sulphate, sodium hydrogen sulphate, magnesium sulphate, magnesium hydrogen sulfate, aluminum sulphate, aluminum hydrogen sulphate.   18- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymers having a spinning power greater than 5 cm are present in the composition of the invention at a concentration of between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.   19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactants are chosen from salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.   20. A composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium salts are chosen from: those which have the following general formula (V): + R 1 R 3 N, R 2 R 4 X- (V) in which the symbols R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl; X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 -C 6) alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline; the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VII): embedded image in which R 9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R 10, R 11, R 12 and R 13; and R14, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X "is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulphates; quaternary ammonium containing at least one ester function.   21. Composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline are chosen from those of formula 5 (VI) below: R   CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 8) -CO-R 5 N 'NK 1 R 7 + X- (VI) in which R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 7 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a radical C1-C4 alkyl, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates. Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R 7 denotes methyl and R 8 denotes hydrogen.   22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactants are chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-83, behenylamidopropyl 2,3-dihydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.   23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactants are contained in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.   24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening agent is of natural or synthetic origin.   25. Composition according to Claim 24, characterized in that the thickening agent is chosen from polymers or copolymers of acrylic and / or methacrylic acid.   26. Composition according to Claim 24, characterized in that the thickening agent is a copolymer of acrylamide or acrylamide derivative.   27. Composition according to Claim 24, characterized in that the thickening agent is chosen from: - homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic crosslinked, - copolymers of acrylamide and ammonium acrylate optionally crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers of optionally crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, and copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, partially or completely neutralized, optionally crosslinked.   28. Composition according to Claim 24, characterized in that the thickening agent is chosen from polyethylene glycols and their derivatives. 29. Composition according to claim 24, characterized in that the polysaccharides are chosen from glucans, modified or non-modified starches, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, mannans, xylans, and arabans. , galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arabic, tragacanth gums Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof.   30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-cellulosic thickening polymer is present at a concentration of between 0.001% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01. % and 15% by weight.   31. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional conditioning agent.   32. A composition according to claim 31, characterized in that the conditioning agent is chosen from silicones, cationic polymers, carboxylic esters comprising at least 12 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils and their mixtures.   33. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium consists of water or a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent.   34. The composition as claimed in claim 33, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable solvent is chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol; alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, polyol ethers; C5-C10 alkanes and mixtures thereof.   35. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it furthermore comprises additives such as anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, thickeners such as acids or electrolytes, opacifiers, nacrants, vitamins, provitamines such as panthenol, waxes such as vegetable waxes, natural or synthetic ceramides, perfumes, dyes, organic or inorganic particles, preservatives, pH stabilizers.   36- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of after-shampoo, composition for permanent, straightening, coloring or discoloration of hair, composition to rinse to apply between the two stages of a perm or straightening.   37. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a after-shampoo to be rinsed.   38. Process for treating keratin materials, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said materials an effective amount of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 37, then optionally performing a rinse. .