FR2850566A1 - Use of a phosphorus-free cationic thickener comprising at least two amide groups, at least one asymmetric carbon atom and at least one fatty chain in a cosmetic composition, especially hair gel - Google Patents
Use of a phosphorus-free cationic thickener comprising at least two amide groups, at least one asymmetric carbon atom and at least one fatty chain in a cosmetic composition, especially hair gel Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2850566A1 FR2850566A1 FR0350009A FR0350009A FR2850566A1 FR 2850566 A1 FR2850566 A1 FR 2850566A1 FR 0350009 A FR0350009 A FR 0350009A FR 0350009 A FR0350009 A FR 0350009A FR 2850566 A1 FR2850566 A1 FR 2850566A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- use according
- fatty chain
- thickening
- cosmetic composition
- phosphorus
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4926—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
AMIDE CATIONIQUE HYDROGELIFIANT EN COSMETIQUECATIONIC HYDROGELIFYING AMIDE IN COSMETICS
L'invention a pour objet l'utilisation, en cosmétique, d'amides cationiques hydrogélifiants. The subject of the invention is the use, in cosmetics, of cationic hydrogelling amides.
On connaît des compositions épaissies, notamment des gels capillaires, qui sont généralement appliquées sur les cheveux avant de mettre en forme la coiffure. Pour mettre en forme et fixer la coiffure, on effectue ensuite un brushing ou une mise en plis. Thickened compositions are known, in particular hair gels, which are generally applied to the hair before shaping the hairstyle. To shape and fix the hairstyle, we then do a brushing or styling.
Ces compositions épaissies, notamment ces gels, peuvent contenir des résines 10 polymères. These thickened compositions, especially these gels, may contain polymeric resins.
Toutefois, elles présentent souvent l'inconvénient d'altérer les propriétés cosmétiques des cheveux. Ainsi, les cheveux peuvent devenir rêches, difficiles à démêler, perdre leur toucher et leur aspect agréables ou encore manquer de corps. On 15 recherche donc de telles compositions cosmétiques capillaires procurant de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques, notamment en terme de démêlage, de douceur et de toucher. However, they often have the drawback of altering the cosmetic properties of the hair. Thus, the hair can become coarse, difficult to disentangle, lose its touch and its pleasant appearance or even lack body. We are therefore looking for such hair cosmetic compositions providing good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of detangling, softness and feel.
En outre, les compositions cosmétiques capillaires épaissies présentent également l'inconvénient majeur de donner lieu à un effet de poudrage. Au sens de la 20 présente invention, on entend par "poudrage ", l'aptitude du matériau obtenu par séchage de la composition capillaire à former une poudre après son application sur les cheveux. In addition, thickened hair cosmetic compositions also have the major drawback of giving rise to a dusting effect. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dusting" means the ability of the material obtained by drying the hair composition to form a powder after its application to the hair.
Les milieux cosmétiques aqueux sont, en général, gélifiés par des polymères 25 hydrophiles réticulés. Il est difficile de réaliser des gels cosmétiques aqueux qui auraient, après le séchage sur les cheveux, une bonne résistance à un climat humide. The aqueous cosmetic media are generally gelled with crosslinked hydrophilic polymers. It is difficult to produce aqueous cosmetic gels which, after drying on the hair, have good resistance to a humid climate.
Il existe donc un besoin de trouver des compositions cosmétiques, notamment capillaires épaissies, notamment des gels capillaires, qui ne présentent pas l'ensemble 30 des inconvénients indiqués ci-dessus, et qui, en particulier résistent à un climat humide. There is therefore a need to find cosmetic compositions, in particular thickened capillaries, in particular hair gels, which do not have all of the drawbacks indicated above, and which, in particular withstand a humid climate.
Pour résoudre ce problème, l'invention propose l'utilisation en cosmétique de petites molécules chirales à fonctions amides et à chaînes grasses, contenant des fonctions ioniques. Ces molécules sont décrites dans la littérature, et notamment dans les publications suivantes: Chemistry Letters 2002, (7), 704-705; New Journal of Chemistry 2002, 26 (7), 817-818; Chemical Communications (Cambridge, United Kingdom) 2002, (8), 884-885. To solve this problem, the invention proposes the use in cosmetics of small chiral molecules with amide functions and with fatty chains, containing ionic functions. These molecules are described in the literature, and in particular in the following publications: Chemistry Letters 2002, (7), 704-705; New Journal of Chemistry 2002, 26 (7), 817-818; Chemical Communications (Cambridge, United Kingdom) 2002, (8), 884-885.
La Demanderesse a maintenant découvert qu'après le séchage sur les cheveux, ces gels forment des dépôts ayant une excellente tenue à l'humidité. The Applicant has now discovered that after drying on the hair, these gels form deposits having excellent resistance to humidity.
L'invention a pour objet l'utilisation dans une composition cosmétique, en milieu 10 aqueux ou eau+solvant, d'un composé moléculaire épaississant ionique non phosphoré, de poids moléculaire inférieur à 2 000 g/mol et comprenant au moins: - deux groupements amide, - un carbone asymétrique, une chaîne grasse comportant au moins huit carbones. 15 Par "composé moléculaire", on entend, au sens de la présente invention, tout composé dont le squelette ne résulte pas d'une polymérisation. Ceci n'exclut pas que le composé puisse contenir un ou plusieurs groupement polyoxyalkylénés ou polyoxyglycérolés. The subject of the invention is the use in a cosmetic composition, in aqueous medium or water + solvent, of a non-phosphorus ionic thickening molecular compound, of molecular weight less than 2,000 g / mol and comprising at least: - two amide groups, - an asymmetric carbon, a fatty chain comprising at least eight carbons. By "molecular compound" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, any compound whose backbone does not result from a polymerization. This does not exclude that the compound may contain one or more polyoxyalkylenated or polyoxyglycerolated groups.
Par "molécule cationique", on entend, au sens de la présente invention, une molécule comprenant au moins un atome d'azote quaternisé. By "cationic molecule" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a molecule comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom.
COMPOSE MOLECULAIRE EPAISSISSANTTHICKENING MOLECULAR COMPOUND
Conformément à l'invention, le composé moléculaire épaississant ionique, non phosphoré, est de poids moléculaire inférieur à 2 000 g/mol et il comprend au moins: - deux groupements amide, - un carbone asymétrique, une chaîne grasse comportant au moins huit carbones. According to the invention, the ionic thickening molecular compound, non phosphorus, is of molecular weight less than 2000 g / mol and it comprises at least: - two amide groups, - an asymmetric carbon, a fatty chain comprising at least eight carbons .
Plus avantageusement encore, la chaîne grasse comporte entre 8 et 30 atomes de carbone, et plus préférentiellement entre 8 et 22 atomes de carbone. More advantageously still, the fatty chain contains between 8 and 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably between 8 and 22 carbon atoms.
Selon une version préférée, le composé moléculaire épaississant est de poids moléculaire inférieur à 1OOOg/mol, et de préférence, inférieur à 800 g/mol. According to a preferred version, the thickening molecular compound is of molecular weight less than 1OOOg / mol, and preferably, less than 800 g / mol.
Avantageusement, au moins une chaîne grasse est liée directement au groupement amide, et en particulier, au moins une chaîne grasse est liée au groupement amide par une fonction carbonyle. Plus préférentiellement, le composé moléculaire épaississant contient au moins deux chaînes grasses et, encore plus préférentiellement, au moins une chaîne grasse fait partie d'un groupement ester. 10 Selon on mode préféré de l'invention, le composé moléculaire épaississant contient au moins deux enchaînements -CONH-. Advantageously, at least one fatty chain is linked directly to the amide group, and in particular, at least one fatty chain is linked to the amide group by a carbonyl function. More preferably, the thickening molecular compound contains at least two fatty chains and, even more preferably, at least one fatty chain is part of an ester group. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the thickening molecular compound contains at least two sequences -CONH-.
En particulier, le composé épaississant est présent dans le milieu aqueux à une 15 concentration en poids comprise entre 0,1 et 60 %, et de préférence entre 0,25 et 25 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique. In particular, the thickening compound is present in the aqueous medium at a concentration by weight of between 0.1 and 60%, and preferably between 0.25 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Préférentiellement, la composition forme un film après séchage. Dans un mode préféré, le film est insoluble dans l'eau pure, à la température ambiante. Il peut, par 20 contre, être soluble, à pH acide ou alcalin. Preferably, the composition forms a film after drying. In a preferred mode, the film is insoluble in pure water, at room temperature. It can, on the other hand, be soluble, at acidic or alkaline pH.
En tant que composé moléculaire épaississant, on peut citer le bromure de 1-(1 1(((1 S)-i -éthoxycarbonyl-5 -((1 -oxododécyl)amino)pentyl)amino)- 1 -oxoundécyl) pyridinium. As molecular thickening compound, mention may be made of 1- (1 1 ((((S) -i -ethoxycarbonyl-5 - - ((1-oxododecyl) amino) pentyl) amino) - 1 -oxoundecyl) pyridinium) bromide.
Ces composés moléculaires peuvent être appliqués sur les cheveux, la peau, les cils, les sourcils et les ongles. On les emploie tout particulièrement pour les cheveux. These molecular compounds can be applied to hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows and nails. They are used especially for hair.
Il existe différents modes d'application du composé moléculaire épaississant sur les cheveux. On peut citer ceux-ci: Application 1: la molécule est appliquée sur les cheveux sous forme de gel ou de solution dans une composition capillaire contenant de l'eau, de l'alcool ou un autre solvant cosmétiquement acceptable ou leur mélange. There are different methods of applying the thickening molecular compound to the hair. These include: Application 1: the molecule is applied to the hair in the form of a gel or solution in a hair composition containing water, alcohol or another cosmetically acceptable solvent or a mixture thereof.
Application 2: la molécule est appliquée sur les cheveux sous forme de solution dans une composition capillaire contenant un ou plusieurs solvants cosmétiquement acceptables. L'eau est appliquée en deuxième temps, pour former un gel. Application 2: the molecule is applied to the hair in the form of a solution in a hair composition containing one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents. Water is applied in a second step, to form a gel.
Application 3: la molécule est appliquée sur les cheveux sous forme de gel ou 10 de solution dans une composition capillaire contenant de l'eau, de l'alcool ou un autre solvant cosmétiquement acceptable ou leur mélange. Après séchage, le dépôt formé sur les cheveux est éliminé par application: - d'eau chaude - d'une solution aqueuse à pH acide ou basique - d'un solvant ou d'un mélange de plusieurs solvants. Application 3: the molecule is applied to the hair in the form of a gel or a solution in a hair composition containing water, alcohol or another cosmetically acceptable solvent or a mixture thereof. After drying, the deposit formed on the hair is removed by applying: - hot water - an aqueous solution at acidic or basic pH - a solvent or a mixture of several solvents.
L'invention pourra être mieux comprise à l'aide de l'exemple non limitatif qui suit et qui constitue un mode d'utilisation préférentiel des amides ioniques hydrogélifiés. The invention can be better understood with the aid of the nonlimiting example which follows and which constitutes a preferred mode of use of the hydrogelified ionic amides.
EXEMPLE:EXAMPLE:
On réalise un gel contenant 1 % en matière active de bromure de 1-(1 (((lS)-1éthoxycarbonyl-5 -((1 -oxododécyl)amino)pentyl)amino)- 1 1 oxoundécyl) pyridinium. A gel containing 1% of active material of bromide of 1- (1 ((((1S) -1ethoxycarbonyl-5 - ((1-oxododecyl) amino) pentyl) amino) - 1 1 oxoundecyl) pyridinium) is produced.
25 Après l'application sur cheveux, on a remarqué que ce gel donne une tenue à l'humidité supérieure à celle du Carbopol Ultrez 10 ( commercialisé par Noveon (poly acide acrylique réticulé) à 1% en poids m.a..25 After application to hair, it has been observed that this gel gives a resistance to humidity greater than that of Carbopol Ultrez 10 (marketed by Noveon (crosslinked poly acrylic acid) at 1% by weight m.a.
Claims (9)
Priority Applications (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0350009A FR2850566B1 (en) | 2003-02-03 | 2003-02-03 | HYDROGENIFYING CATIONIC AMIDE IN COSMETICS |
JP2005518711A JP2006516555A (en) | 2003-02-03 | 2004-01-02 | Hydrogelled cationic amides for cosmetics |
EP04700050A EP1592393A2 (en) | 2003-02-03 | 2004-01-02 | Hydrogelling cationic amide for cosmetics |
PCT/FR2004/000225 WO2004068995A2 (en) | 2003-02-03 | 2004-01-02 | Hydrogelling cationic amide for cosmetics |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0350009A FR2850566B1 (en) | 2003-02-03 | 2003-02-03 | HYDROGENIFYING CATIONIC AMIDE IN COSMETICS |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
FR2850566A1 true FR2850566A1 (en) | 2004-08-06 |
FR2850566B1 FR2850566B1 (en) | 2005-03-25 |
Family
ID=32696410
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
FR0350009A Expired - Fee Related FR2850566B1 (en) | 2003-02-03 | 2003-02-03 | HYDROGENIFYING CATIONIC AMIDE IN COSMETICS |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
FR (1) | FR2850566B1 (en) |
Citations (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2002055011A2 (en) * | 2001-01-16 | 2002-07-18 | Univ Ben Gurion | Amphiphilic derivatives for the production of vesicles, micelles and complexants, and precursors thereof |
-
2003
- 2003-02-03 FR FR0350009A patent/FR2850566B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2002055011A2 (en) * | 2001-01-16 | 2002-07-18 | Univ Ben Gurion | Amphiphilic derivatives for the production of vesicles, micelles and complexants, and precursors thereof |
Non-Patent Citations (3)
Title |
---|
SUZUKI, MASAHIRO; YUMOTO, MARIKO; KIMURA, MUTSUMI; SHIRAI, HIROFUSA;: "A family of low-molecular-weight hydrogelators based on L-lysine", CHEMISTRY--A EUROPEAN JOURNAL, vol. 9, no. 1, 2003, pages 348 - 354, XP001155280 * |
SUZUKI, MASAHIRO; YUMOTO, MARIKO; KIMURA, MUTSUMI; SHIRAI, HIROFUSA;: "Low-molecular-weight hydrogelators based on L-lysine with various", CHEMISTRY LETTERS, no. 7, 2002, pages 704 - 705, XP009018629 * |
SUZUKI, MASAHIRO; YUMOTO, MARIKO; KIMURA, MUTSUMI; SHIRAI, HIROFUSA;: "Novel family of low molecular weight hydrogelators based on L-lysine", CHEMICAL COMMUNICATIONS (CAMBRIDGE, UNITED KINGDOM), no. 8, 2002, pages 884 - 885, XP009018628 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
FR2850566B1 (en) | 2005-03-25 |
Similar Documents
Publication | Publication Date | Title |
---|---|---|
EP1010418B1 (en) | Mascara product comprising a polyurethane | |
EP1249225B1 (en) | Mascara containing an acrylic polymer | |
EP1101486B1 (en) | Cosmetic composition containing a polymer with specific characteristics and a thickener | |
FR2840529A1 (en) | Use of nanotubes to impart volume to keratinic fibers, e.g. hair, especially in cosmetic compositions | |
EP0975316A1 (en) | Cosmetic composition based on associative polyurethane and non-ionic polymers with fatty chains | |
EP2521530A2 (en) | Cosmetic composition, cosmetic treatment method, kit, and compound | |
CA2324034C (en) | Cosmetic compositions containing a dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone copolymer emulsion and in aqueous emulsion and a thickener and their uses | |
CA2147729C (en) | Guar gum used in a non-permanent shaping process of keratinic fibers | |
CA2280600A1 (en) | Make-up composition comprising a polyalphaolefin | |
FR2853832A1 (en) | HAIR TREATMENT PROCESS AND USE OF THE HAIR SMOOTHING PROCESS | |
CA2274729C (en) | Cosmetic composition containing at least one ramified sulphonic polyester and at least one conditioner | |
EP1345570A2 (en) | Cosmetic composition comprising a wax and a polymer | |
FR2709954A1 (en) | Cosmetic compositions containing a polysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene linear block copolymer and a cationic polymer, and their uses | |
FR2814363A1 (en) | WASH COMPOSITION CONTAINING ALKYLAMIDOETHERSULPHATES, ANIONIC SURFACTANTS AND CATIONIC POLYMERS | |
FR2879920A1 (en) | Composition for make-up and care of the nails, comprises alkyd resin and polyester resulting from polycondensation of adipic acid, polyalcohol and compound having three acid and anhydride groups | |
FR2961396A1 (en) | PROCESS FOR MAKE-UP OR CARE OF KERATIN FIBERS USING RETRACTABLE FIBERS AND USE THEREOF | |
FR2553779A1 (en) | CATIONIC AMPHOLYTE TETRAPOLYMERS, THEIR APPLICATION IN THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS AND THE COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING THEM | |
FR2811895A1 (en) | A composition for use as a hair shampoo or skin wash, comprises starch betainate and a detergent surfactant in a cosmetically acceptable medium | |
WO2015028745A2 (en) | Cosmetic composition comprising a sulphonic polymer, a hydrophobic polysaccharide and a silicone surfactant | |
FR2774902A1 (en) | COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON ASSOCIATIVE POLYURETHANES AND QUATERNARY SILICONES | |
FR2850566A1 (en) | Use of a phosphorus-free cationic thickener comprising at least two amide groups, at least one asymmetric carbon atom and at least one fatty chain in a cosmetic composition, especially hair gel | |
EP1592393A2 (en) | Hydrogelling cationic amide for cosmetics | |
CA2345374A1 (en) | Cleansing cosmetic compositions and use | |
EP1893294A1 (en) | Capillary cosmetic method comprising a step for the application of a cross-linked polyrotaxane, capillary compositions containing a cross-linked polyrotaxane, and uses thereof | |
FR2774901A1 (en) | HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS BASED ON CATIONIC POLYMERS AND NON-IONIC ASSOCIATIVE POLYMERS |
Legal Events
Date | Code | Title | Description |
---|---|---|---|
ST | Notification of lapse |
Effective date: 20081031 |