FR2850565A1 - Cosmetic composition useful for hair treatment comprises a polymer and a phosphorus-free ionic thickener comprising at least two amide groups, at least one asymmetric carbon atom and at least one fatty chain - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises an aqueous or water/solvent medium, a polymer beneficial for the hair, and a phosphorus-free ionic thickener that has a molecular weight below 2000 and comprises at least two amide groups, at least one asymmetric carbon atom and at least one fatty chain of at least 8 carbons.

Description

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COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING IONIC AMIDE
HYDROGELIFIER AND A BENEFICIAL POLYMER
The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising at least one beneficial polymer and at least one hydrogelling ionic amide. It also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application of this composition, as well as its use, in particular in the field of the capillary.

 Thickened compositions are known, in particular hair gels, which are generally applied to the hair before shaping the hairstyle. To shape and fix the hairstyle, we then do a brushing or styling.

These thickened compositions, in particular these gels, can contain polymer resins.

 However, they often have the drawback of altering the cosmetic properties of the hair. Thus, the hair can become coarse, difficult to disentangle, lose its touch and its pleasant appearance or even lack body. We are therefore looking for such hair cosmetic compositions providing good cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of detangling, softness and feel.

 In addition, thickened hair cosmetic compositions also have the major drawback of giving rise to a dusting effect. Within the meaning of the present invention, by dusting is meant the ability of the material obtained by drying the hair composition to form a powder after its application to the hair.

 The aqueous cosmetic media are, in general, gelled by crosslinked hydrophilic polymers. It is difficult to produce aqueous cosmetic gels which, after drying on the hair, have good resistance to a humid climate.

 There is therefore a need to find cosmetic compositions, in particular thickened capillaries, in particular hair gels, which do not have all of the drawbacks indicated above, and which, in particular withstand a humid climate.

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 To solve this problem, the invention proposes the use in cosmetics of small chiral molecules with amide functions and with fatty chains, containing ionic functions. These molecules are described in the literature, and in particular in the following publications: Letters 2002, (7), 704-705; New Journal of Chemistry 2002.26 (7), 817-818; Communications (Cambridge, United Kingdom) 2002, (8), 884-885, in association with at least one beneficial polymer.

 The Applicant has now discovered that after drying on the hair, these gels form deposits having excellent resistance to humidity.

 The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition, comprising, in an aqueous medium or water + solvent, at least one polymer beneficial for the hair and at least one non-phosphorus ionic thickening molecular compound, of molecular weight less than 2,000 g / mol and comprising at least: - two amide groups, - an asymmetric carbon, - a fatty chain comprising at least eight carbons.

 By "molecular compound" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, any compound whose backbone does not result from a polymerization. This does not exclude that the compound may contain one or more polyoxyalkylenated or polyoxyglycerilated groups.

 By “ionic molecule” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a molecule comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom or a group chosen from the group C02M or S03M, M denoting a hydrogen atom or an ion derived from '' an alkali or alkaline earth metal or an ion from an organic amine.

THICKENING MOLECULAR COMPOUND
In accordance with the invention, the non-phosphorus ionic thickening molecular compound has a molecular weight of less than 2,000 g / mol and it comprises at least:

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 - two amide groups, - an asymmetric carbon, - a fatty chain comprising at least eight carbons.

 More advantageously still, the fatty chain contains between 8 and 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably between 8 and 22 carbon atoms.

 Preferably, the thickening molecular compound is cationic and is of molecular weight less than 1000 g / mol, and preferably, less than 800 g / mol.

 Advantageously, at least one fatty chain is linked directly to the amide group, and in particular, at least one fatty chain is linked to the amide group by a carbonyl function. More preferably, the thickening molecular compound contains at least two fatty chains and, even more preferably, at least one fatty chain is part of an ester group.

 According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the thickening molecular compound contains at least two-CONH- sequences.

 In particular, the thickening compound is present in the aqueous medium at a concentration by weight of between 0.1 and 60%, and preferably between 0.25 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

 Preferably, the composition forms a film after drying. In a preferred mode, the film is insoluble in pure water at room temperature. On the other hand, it can be soluble, at acidic or alkaline pH.

((1 1 S)-1 -éthoxycarbonyl-5 -(( 1 -oxododécyl)amino)pentyl)amino)-11 -oxoundécyl) pyridinium. POLYMÈRE BENEFIQUE As a molecular thickening compound, mention may be made of 1- (11-

((1 1 S) -1 -ethoxycarbonyl-5 - ((1 -oxododecyl) amino) pentyl) amino) -11 -oxoundecyl) pyridinium. BENEFIC POLYMER

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The hair compositions of the present invention contain at least one polymer beneficial for the hair.

 By “beneficial polymer”, is meant within the meaning of the present invention, any polymer making it possible to improve the cosmetic properties of the support on which it is applied, or to bring new cosmetic properties to said support. The main cosmetic properties to be considered are flexibility, shine, photoprotection for all supports, and more particularly for hair, detangling, maintenance or styling effect.

 This polymer can be of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric nature.

 The cationic polymers are chosen, for example, from those described in patent applications EP 0 337 354, FR 2 270 846, FR 2 383 660, FR 2 598 611, FR 2 470 596 and FR 2 519 863.

 The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which form part of the main macromolecular chain, or else are carried by side groups directly linked to this.

 Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type. These are known products.

The polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type, which can be used in the compositions of the present invention, are those described in patents FR 2 505 348 and FR 2 542 997. Among these polymers, mention may be made in particular : (1) homopolymers or copolymers of esters or of acrylic or methacrylic amides with an amino function,
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower C1-alkyl groups. -4, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters,

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 vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, of vinyl esters.

 Among these copolymers of family (1), there may be mentioned in particular: - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES, - the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in patent application EP-A- 080976 and sold under the name BINAQUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name GAFQUAT by the company ISP such as, for example, GAFQUAT 73 or , or else the products called COPOLYMER 845.958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in patents FR 2 077 143 and FR 2 393 573, the dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, - the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl-dimethylamine copolymers marketed in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP, and - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide dimethylaminopropyl quaternized copolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company ISP.

 (2) The derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in patent FR 1 492 597, and in particular the polymers marketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

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 (3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- , hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, of methacrylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium, of dimethyldiallylammonium.

 The products marketed meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name Celquat # L 200 and Celquat # H 100 by the National Starch Company.

 (4) The cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US Patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a salt, for example chloride, of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium.

 Such products are sold in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR # C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR Cl 62 by the company MEYHALL.

 (5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in patents FR 2 162 025 and FR 2 280 361.

 (6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine. These polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, or an alkyl bis-halide. oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bishalide, an epihalohydrin, of a diepoxide or of a bisinsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide. These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions,

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 quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in patents FR 2 252 840 and FR 2 368 508.

 (7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid / diakylaminohydroxyalkyl-dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene group comprises from 1 to 4 atoms carbon, and preferably denotes the ethylene group. Such polymers are described in particular in patent FR 1,583,363.

 Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl-diethylene-triamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine # F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

 (8) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 atoms of carbon, the molar ratio of polyalkylene-polylamine to dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 1.4: 1. polyaminoamide resulting from this reaction is then reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 1.8: 1. such polymers are described in particular in US Patents 3,227,615 and US 2,961,347.

 Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of PD 170 or Delsette # 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the copolymer of adipic acid / epoxypropyl-diethylene- triamine.

 (9) Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (Va) or (Vb):

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dans lesquelles k et t sont égaux à 0 ou 1, la somme k +t étant égale à 1 ; R12 désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe méthyle ; R10 et R11, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, désignent un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, un groupement hydroxyalkyle en CI-5, un groupement amidoalkyle inférieur en CI-C4, ou bien Rio et R11 peuvent désigner conjointement avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, des groupements hétérocycliques, tels que pipéridinyle ou morpholinyle ; Y- est un anion tel que bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R10 and R11, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in CI-5, a lower amidoalkyl group in CI-C4, or else Rio and R11 can denote together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

 These polymers are described in particular in patent FR 2 080 759 and in its certificate of addition 2 190 406.

 Among the polymers defined above, there may be mentioned more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride sold under the name MERQUAT 100 by the company CALGON (and its counterparts with low molecular weights average by weight) and copolymers of chloride of chloride diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide marketed under the name MERQUAT 550.

 (10) Quaternary diammonium polymers containing recurring units corresponding to formula (VI):

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dans laquelle : R13, R14, R15 et R16, identiques ou différents, représentent des groupes aliphatiques, alicycliques ou arylaliphatiques contenant de 1 à 20 atomes de carbone ou des groupes hydroxyalkyle aliphatiques inférieurs, ou bien R]3, R14, R15 et R16 ensemble ou séparément, forment avec les atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés des hétérocycles contenant éventuellement un second hétéroatome autre que l'azote, ou bien R13, R14, R15 et R16 représentent un groupe alkyle en CI-6, linéaire ou ramifié, substitué par un groupement nitrile, ester, acyle, amide ou-CO- O-R17-D ou -CO-NH-R17-D où R17 est un groupe alkylène et D un groupement ammonium quaternaire ; AI et B1 représentent des groupements polyméthyléniques contenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone, pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, et pouvant contenir, liés à ou intercalés dans la chaîne principale, un ou plusieurs cycles aromatiques, ou un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène, de soufre ou des groupements sulfoxyde, sulfone, disulfure, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyle, ammonium quaternaire, uréido, amide ou ester, et X- désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique; A1, R13 et R15 peuvent former avec les deux atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés un cycle pipérazinique ; outre, si A1 désigne un groupe alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, B1 peut également désigner un groupement : -(CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)n- dans lequel D désigne : a) un reste de glycol de formule -O-Z-O-, où Z désigne un groupe hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou un groupement répondant à l'une des formules suivantes : - (CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- - [CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- où x et y désignent un nombre entier de 1 à 4, représentant un degré de polymérisation défini et unique ou un nombre quelconque de 1 à 4 représentant un degré de polymérisation moyen ; b) un reste de diamine bis-secondaire tel qu'un dérivé de pipérazine ;

in which: R13, R14, R15 and R16, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower aliphatic hydroxyalkyl groups, or alternatively R] 3, R14, R15 and R16 together or separately, form with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a substituted or substituted or linear C1-C6 alkyl group by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene group and D a quaternary ammonium group; AI and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 can also denote a group: - (CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH2-CH2-O) x-CH2-CH2- - [CH2-CH (CH3) -O] y-CH2-CH (CH3) - where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing a mean degree of polymerization ; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

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 c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or else the divalent group -CH2-CH2S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

 Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

 These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.

 Polymers of this type are described in particular in patents FR 2 320 330, FR 2 270 846, FR 2 316 271, FR 2 336 434 and FR 2 413 907 and patents US 2 273 780, US 2 375 853, US 2 388 614, US 2 454 547, US 3 206 462, US 2 261 002, US 2 271 378, US 3 874 870, US 4 001 432, US 3 929 990, US 3 966 904, US 4 005 193, US 4 025 617, US 4,025,627, US 4,025,653, US 4,026,945 and US 4,027,020.

dans laquelle RI, R2, R3 et R4, identiques ou différents, désignent un groupe alkyle ou hydroxyalkyle ayant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone environ, n et p sont des nombres entiers variant de 2 à 20 environ et, X- est un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique. It is possible to use more particularly the polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula:

in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to approximately 20 and, X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

 A particularly preferred compound of formula (VII) is that for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl group and n = 3, p = 6 and X = C1, called hexadimethrin chloride (CTFA).

(11) Quaternary polyammonium polymers,
These include, for example, the products Mirapol # A 15, Mirapol # AD1, Mirapol # AZ1 and Mirapol # 175 sold by the company Miranol.

 (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B. A.S.F. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of methylvinylimidazolium chloride.

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 (13) Polyamines such as Polyquart # H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name of POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE in the CTFA dictionary.

méthacryloyloxyalkyl(C -4) trialkyl(C1)ammonium, tels que les polymères obtenus par homopolymérisation du méthacrylate de diméthylaminoéthyle quaternisé par le chlorure de méthyle, ou par copolymérisation de l'acrylamide et de méthacrylate de diméthylaminoéthyle quaternisé par le chlorure de méthyle, l'homopolymérisation ou la copolymérisation étant suivie d'une réticulation par un composé à insaturation oléfinique, en particulier le méthylène-bisacrylamide. On peut plus particulièrement utiliser un copolymère réticulé acrylamide/chlorure de méthacryloyloxy-éthyl-triméthylammonium (20/80 en poids) sous forme de dispersion contenant 50 % en poids dudit copolymère dans de l'huile minérale. Cette dispersion est commercialisée sous le nom de SALCARE# SC 92 par la Société ALLIED COLLOIDS. On peut également utiliser un homopolymère réticulé du chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyl-triméthylammonium contenant environ 50 % en poids de l'homopolymère dans de l'huile minérale ou dans un ester liquide. Ces dispersions sont commercialisées sous les noms de SALCARE# SC 95 et SALCARE# SC 96 par la Société ALLIED COLLOIDS. (14) Crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of

methacryloyloxyalkyl (C -4) trialkyl (C1) ammonium, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, l homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. One can more particularly use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxy-ethyl-trimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name SALCARE # SC 92 by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names of SALCARE # SC 95 and SALCARE # SC 96 by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS.

 Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes, cationic derivatives of chitin, and aminofunctional silicones.

 Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups are preferred, such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION , cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sold under the names MERQUAT 100, MERQUAT # 550 and MERQUAT S by the company CALGON, cationic polysaccharides such as guar gums modified with a salt of 2, 3-epoxypropyl-trimethylammonium, quaternized copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, polycondensates of

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 quaternary polyammonium preferably comprising the repeating units of formulas (VI) and (VIII) as indicated above, and their mixtures.

 The anionic beneficial polymers generally used are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular mass of between approximately 500 and 5,000,000.

dans laquelle n est un nombre entier de 0 à 10, A1 désigne un groupement méthylène, éventuellement relié à l'atome de carbone du groupement insaturé ou au groupement méthylène voisin lorsque n est supérieur à 1, par l'intermédiaire d'un hétéroatome tel que l'oxygène ou le soufre, R7 désigne un atome d'hydrogène, un groupement phényle ou benzyle, R8 désigne un atome d'hydrogène, un groupement alkyle inférieur ou carboxyle, et R9 désigne un atome d'hydrogène, un groupement alkyle inférieur, un groupement -CH2-COOH, phényle ou benzyle. The carboxylic groups are provided by mono or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula:

in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A1 denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such that oxygen or sulfur, R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, and R9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group , a group -CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl.

 In the above formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular, methyl and ethyl groups.

The preferred anionic polymers with carboxylic groups preferred according to the invention are:
A) Homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL E or K by the company ALLIED COLLOID and ULTRAHOLD by the company BASF, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of sodium salt under the names RETEN 421,423 or 425 by the company Hercules, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.

 B) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters,

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 esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent FR 1 222 944 and German patent application DE 2 330 956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit, optionally N-alkylated and / or Nhydroxyalkylated as described in particular. in Luxembourg patent applications No. 75370 and 75371 and offered under the name QUADRAMER by the company AMERICAN CYANAMID. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and of terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of C1-C20 alkyl methacrylate, for example of lauryl, such as that marketed by the company ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE LM and the methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers such as the product marketed under the name LUVIMER 100 P by the company BASF.

 C) Copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those comprising vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain, and optionally other monomers such as the allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated carboxylic acid , linear or branched, with a long hydrocarbon chain, such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted and crosslinked, or another vinyl ester, allyl or methallyl monomer of a carboxylic acid or (3-cyclic) Such polymers are described inter alia in French patents FR 1 222 944, FR 1 580 545, FR 2 265 782, FR 2 265 781, FR 1 564 110 and FR 2 439 798. Commercial products falling into this class are resins 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by the company NATIONAL STARCH.

 D) The copolymers derived from C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from: - copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents n 2,047,398,2,723,248 and 2,102,113, and the patent GB 839 805. Commercial products are in particular those sold under the names GANTREZ # AN or ES by the company ISP.

 - the copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic, itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters optionally comprising one or more

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 acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin groups, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic or vinylpyrrolidone acids in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified.

 These polymers are for example described in French patents FR 2 350 384 and FR 2 357 241 of the applicant.

 E) Polyacrylamides containing carboxylate groups.

 The polymers comprising the sulfonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrene-sulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic or acrylamido-alkylsulfonic units.

 These polymers can in particular be chosen from: - the salts of polyvinylsulfonic acid having a molecular mass of between approximately 1,000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone.

 - the salts of polystyrene-sulfonic acid such as the sodium salts sold for example under the names FLEXAN # 130 and FLEXAN 500 by the company NATIONAL STARCH. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719.

 - the salts of polyacrylamide-sulfonic acids such as those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631, and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the name COSMEDIA POLYMER HSP 1180 by the company HENKEL.

 The amphoteric beneficial polymers which can be used in the hair compositions of the present invention can be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed statistically in the polymer chain where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups. The amphoteric beneficial polymers can also comprise zwitterionic units of the carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine type.

 They can also be polymers with a cationic main chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, among which at least one carries, via a hydrocarbon radical, a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group. The amphoteric beneficial polymers may also have an anionic chain derived from α, p-unsaturated carboxylic acids, one of the carboxyl groups of which has been brought to

<Desc / Clms Page number 15>

 react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary amine groups.

 The beneficial amphoteric polymers meeting the definition given above are chosen in particular from the following polymers: (1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as more particularly methacrylate and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Patent 3,836,537.

 (2) polymers comprising units derived from: (a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by an alkyl group, (b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and (c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

 The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides are in particular the compounds whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tertiobutylacrylamide, Ntertiooctylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, Ndodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

 The acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.

 The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.

 Particularly used are the copolymers whose name CTFA 4th Ed., 1991) is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl-methacrylate

<Desc / Clms Page number 16>

 copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER # or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.

# dans les proportions de 0 à 20 % en moles, le groupe -NH-(CH2)6-NHdérivant de l'hexaméthylènediamine, ces polyaminoamides étant réticulés par réaction d'addition d'un agent réticulant bifonctionnel choisi parmi les épihalohydrines, les diépoxydes, les dianhydrides, les dérivés bis-insaturés, au moyen de 0,025 à 0,35 mole d'agent réticulant par groupement amine du polyaminoamide, et alcoylés par action d'acide acrylique, d'acide chloracétique ou d'une alcane-sultone ou de leurs sels. (3) crosslinked and alkylated polyaminoamides partially or totally derived from polyaminoamides of general formula: - (CO-Rio-CO-Z -) - in which R10 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from an aliphatic acid mono or dicarboxylic acid with an ethylenic double bond, of an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or of a group deriving from the addition of any one of said acids with a bis-primary amine or bis-secondary, and Z denotes a group deriving from a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: * in the proportions of 60 to 100% by moles, the group -NH- [ (CH2) x-NH] p- where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or else x = 3 and p = 2 this group deriving from diethylene triamine, triethylene tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; * in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group -NH - [(CH2) x-NH] p- where x = 2 and p = 1 and which derives from ethylene diamine, or the group deriving from piperazine:

# in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the -NH- (CH2) 6-NH group deriving from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by the addition reaction of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides , dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, using 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent by amine group of the polyaminoamide, and alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloracetic acid or an alkane-sultone or of their salts.

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 The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4adipic and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic, terephthalic acids, acids with ethylene double bond such as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids.

 The alkane-sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane- or butane-sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.

dans laquelle R11désigne un groupement insaturé polymérisable tel qu'un groupement acrylate, méthacrylate, acrylamide ou méthacrylamide, y et z représentent chacun un nombre entier de 1 à 3, R12 et R13 représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe méthyle, éthyle ou propyle, R14 et R15 représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle de telle façon que la somme des atomes de carbone dans R14 et R15ne dépasse pas 10. (4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula:

in which R11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 3, R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group , R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15 does not exceed 10.

 The polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as acrylate or methacrylate of dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.

 By way of example, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethylmethacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER # Z301 by the company SANDOZ.

 (5) polymers derived from chitosan containing monomer units corresponding to the following formulas:

<Desc / Clms Page number 18>

le motif (A) étant présent dans des proportions comprises entre 0 et 30%, le motif (B) dans des proportions comprises entre 5 et 50% et le motif (C) dans des proportions comprises entre 30 et 90%, étant entendu que dans ce motif (C), R16 représente un groupe de formule :

dans laquelle si q = 0, R17, R18 et R19, identiques ou différents, représentent chacun un atome d'hydrogène, un reste méthyle, hydroxyle, acétoxy ou amino, un reste monoalcoylamine ou un reste dialcoylamine éventuellement interrompus par un ou plusieurs atomes d'azote et/ou éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupes amine, hydroxyle, carboxyle, alcoylthio, sulfonique, un reste alcoylthio dont le groupe alcoyle porte un reste amino, l'un au moins des groupes R17, R18et R19étant dans ce cas un atome d'hydrogène ; ou si q = 1, R17, R18 et R19 représentent chacun un atome d'hydrogène, ainsi que les sels formés par ces composés avec des bases ou des acides.

the pattern (A) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the pattern (B) in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the pattern (C) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this motif (C), R16 represents a group of formula:

in which if q = 0, R17, R18 and R19, identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkoylamine residue or a dialkoylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more atoms of nitrogen and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the groups R17, R18 and R19 being in this case an atom hydrogen; or if q = 1, R17, R18 and R19 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.

 (6) The polymers obtained by N-carboxylation of chitosan such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan sold under the name EVALSAN # by the company JAN DEKKER.

 (7) The polymers described in French patent FR 1 400 366 and corresponding to the formula

<Desc / Clms Page number 19>

dans laquelle R20 représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe CH30, CH3CH20 ou phényle, R21 désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle inférieur tel que méthyle et éthyle, R22 désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle inférieur en CI-C6 tel que méthyle et éthyle, R23 désigne un groupe alkyle inférieur en CI-C6 tel que méthyle, éthyle ou un groupe répondant à la formule : -R24N(R22)2, R24 représentant un groupement -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH (CH3)-, et R22 ayant les significations mentionnées ci-dessus.

in which R20 represents a hydrogen atom or a CH30, CH3CH20 or phenyl group, R21 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl, R22 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower C1 alkyl group -C6 such as methyl and ethyl, R23 denotes a lower C1-C6 alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24N (R22) 2, R24 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2 -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH (CH3) -, and R22 having the meanings mentioned above.

et X désigne le symbole E ou E', E ou E' identiques ou différents désignent un groupe bivalent qui est un groupe alkylène à chaîne droite ou ramifiée, comportant jusqu'à 7 atomes de carbone dans la chaîne principale non substituée ou substituée par des groupements hydroxyle et pouvant comporter en outre des atomes d'oxygène, d'azote, de soufre, 1 à 3 cycles aromatiques et/ou hétérocycliques ; les atomes d'oxygène, d'azote et de soufre étant présents sous forme de groupements éther, thioéther, sulfoxyde, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alcénylamine, des groupements hydroxyle, benzylamine, oxyde d'amine, ammonium quaternaire, amide, imide, alcool, ester et/ou uréthanne. (8) Amphoteric polymers of the DXDX type chosen from: (a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on the compounds comprising at least one unit of formula: -DXDXD- where D denotes a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which are identical or different, denote a bivalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which may also contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane.

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et X désigne le symbole E ou E' et au moins une fois E' ; ayant la signification indiquée ci-dessus et E' est un groupe bivalent qui est un groupe alkylène à chaîne droite ou ramifiée, ayant jusqu'à 7 atomes de carbone dans la chaîne principale, substitué ou non par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle et comportant un ou plusieurs atomes d'azote, l'atome d'azote étant substitué par une chaîne alkyle interrompue éventuellement par un atome d'oxygène et comportant obligatoirement une ou plusieurs fonctions carboxyle ou une ou plusieurs fonctions hydroxyle et bétaïnisées par réaction avec l'acide chloracétique ou du chloroacétate de soude. (b) The polymers of formula: -DXD-X where D denotes a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a bivalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group, having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or not by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising a or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily having one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloracetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.

 (9) alkyl (C1-C5) vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semi-amidification with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethyaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with an N, N-dialcanolamine. These copolymers can also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.

The nonionic beneficial polymers are chosen, for example, from: (a) vinylpyrrolidone, (b) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, (c) polyalkyloxazolines such as polyethyloxazolines offered by the company DOW CHEMICAL under PEOX 50 names
000, PEOX 200 000 and PEOX 500 000, (d) vinyl acetate homopolymers such as the product offered under the name APPRETAN EM by the company HOECHST or the product offered under the name RHODOPAS A 012 by the company
RHONE POULENC, (e) copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester such as the product offered under the name RHODOPAS # AD 310 from the company
RHONE POULENC, (f) copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene such as the product offered under the name of APPRETAN TV by the company HOECHST,

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(g) copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example, of dibutyl maleate such as the product offered under the name of APPRETAN # MB EXTRA by the company HOECHST, (h) copolymers of polyethylene and d maleic anhydride, (i) poly (alkyl acrylate) and poly (alkyl methacrylate) such as the product offered under the name MICROPEARL RQ 750 by the company MATSUMOTO or the product offered under the name LUHYDRAN # A 848 S by the company BASF, (j) copolymers of acrylic esters such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates such as the products offered by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names PRIMAL # AC-261 K and EUDRAGIT # NE 30 D, by the company BASF under the names ACRONAL # 601, LUHYDRAN # LR 8833 or 8845, by the company HOECHST under the names APPRETAN # N9212 and N9213; (k) copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; we can cite the products offered under the names NIPOL "LX
531 B by the company NIPPON ZEON or those offered under the name CJ 0601 B by the company ROHM & HAAS, (1) polyamides such as the product ESTAPOR # LO 11 proposed by the company RHONE POULENC, (m) guar gums no chemically modified or unmodified ionic. Unmodified guar gums are for example the products sold under the name VIDOGUM # GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE and under the name JAGUAR C by the company MEYHALL. The modified guar gums are preferably modified with C 1-6 hydroxyalkyl groups, preferably with hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR
HP8, JAGUAR HP60, JAGUAR HP120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP 105 by the company MEYHALL, or under the name GALACTOSOL # 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.

 It is also possible to use, as beneficial polymers, film-forming polymers of the grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane part.

<Desc / Clms Page number 22>

 and a part consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two parts constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto said main chain.

 These polymers are for example described in patent applications EPA-0 412 704, EP-A-0 412 707, EP-A-0 640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0582 152 and WO 93/23009 and US patents 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037.

 These polymers can be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric, but are preferably anionic or nonionic.

où v est un nombre allant de 5 à 700, les pourcentages en poids étant calculés par rapport au poids total des monomères. Such polymers are, for example, the copolymers capable of being obtained by radical polymerization from the mixture of monomers formed a) from 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate, b) from 0 to 40% by weight of acid acrylic, c) from 5 to 40% by weight of a silicone macromer of formula

where v is a number ranging from 5 to 700, the percentages by weight being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.

 Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type of the poly ( meth) acrylate and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, polymeric units of the isobutyl poly (meth) acrylate type.

 It is also possible to use polymers containing urethane units.

These polyurethanes can be functionalized or not, silicone or not, cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric. The polyurethanes particularly targeted are those described in applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297 of which the applicant is the holder, as well as in applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 of BASF, and in applications EP 0 619 111 from National Starch. As polyurethanes which are particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the products marketed under the names LUVISET PUR # and LUVISET # Si PUR by the company BASF.

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 The beneficial polymers of the compositions of the invention can be dissolved in the compositions in the form of dispersions.

 The beneficial polymers, that is to say fixing agents and / or conditioners, are present in the hair compositions of the present invention in an amount sufficient to obtain the cosmetic effect obtained.

 This amount is generally between 0.01% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 10% by weight.

 The cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium can consist solely of water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents miscible with water such as lower alcohols, CI-C4, in particular ethanol , isopropanol, tert-butanol and n-butanol.

 The compositions according to the invention may also contain cosmetic additives and / or formulation adjuvants such as anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, pearling agents, opacifying agents, pigments and dyes, oils, waxes including ceramides, organic or mineral UV filters, anti-free radical agents, vitamins, proteins, anti-dandruff agents, plasticizing agents, pH adjusting and fixing agents, anti-aging agents oxidants, preservatives, hair dye precursors and oxidizing agents.

 The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention, for improving the cosmetic properties of the hair.

 A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additives and their quantity so that they do not harm the advantageous properties of the compositions of the present invention.

 The compositions can be in the form of thickened fluids, gels, creams, foams, W / O, O / W emulsions or multiple emulsions.

 The compositions of the invention can be applied to the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.

 They can be used, for example, as shampoos, rinsed or leave-in care, deep care masks, lotions or creams for treating the scalp and skin.

<Desc / Clms Page number 24>

 They are used especially for hair.

 There are different methods of applying the compositions to the hair. These include: Application 1: composition is applied to the hair in the form of a gel or solution in a hair composition containing water, alcohol or another cosmetically acceptable solvent or a mixture thereof.

 Application 2: the composition is applied to the hair in the form of a solution in a hair composition containing one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents. Water is applied in a second step, to form a gel.

 Application 3: composition is applied to the hair in the form of a gel or solution in a hair composition containing water, alcohol or another cosmetically acceptable solvent or a mixture thereof. After drying, the deposit formed on the hair is removed by applying: - hot water - an aqueous solution at acidic or basic pH - a solvent or a mixture of several solvents.

 These compositions can be packaged in an aerosol device in the presence of one or more propellants. These propellants are preferably chosen from dimethyl ether, C3-5 alkanes 1,1-difluoroethane, mixtures of dimethyl ether and C3-5 alkanes and mixtures of 1,1-difluoroethane and dimethyl ether and / or C3-5 alkanes.

 The present invention is illustrated below by way of an example.

EXAMPLE:

<Desc / Clms Page number 25>

An aqueous gel is made containing 0.8% in active material of 1- (11 - (((1S) -1- ethoxycarbonyl-5 - ((l-oxododecyl) amino) pentyl) amino) -1 1-oxoundecyl) pyridinium and 0 2% in active ingredient of Jaguar HP 105 # marketed by Meyhall (non-ionic guar gum).

 After application to hair, it was noted that this gel gives a resistance to humidity greater than that of Carbopol Ultrez 10 # marketed by Noveon (crosslinked poly acrylic acid) at 1% by weight m. at. in water.

Claims (23)

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous medium or water + solvent, at least one polymer beneficial for the hair and at least one non-phosphorus ionic thickening molecular compound, of molecular weight less than 2,000 g / mol, this molecular compound comprising at least : - two amide groups, - an asymmetric carbon, - a fatty chain comprising at least eight carbons.  2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the thickening molecular compound contains at least two CONH- sequences.  3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty chain contains between 8 and 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably between 8 and 22 carbon atoms.  4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening molecular compound is cationic.  5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening molecular compound is of molecular weight less than 1000 g / mol, and preferably, less than 800 g / mol.  6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one fatty chain is linked directly to the amide group.  7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that at least one fatty chain is linked to the amide group by a carbonyl function.  8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening molecular compound contains at least two fatty chains.  9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one fatty chain is part of an ester group. <Desc / Clms Page number 27>  10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening compound is present in the aqueous medium at a concentration by weight of between 0.1 and 60%, and preferably between 0.25 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.  11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition forms a film after drying.  12. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the film is insoluble in pure water at room temperature.  13. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the film is soluble at acidic or alkaline pH.  14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymers beneficial for the hair are cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers.  15.Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the polymers beneficial for cationic hair are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides with amine function, polysaccharides with quaternary ammonium functions, polymers with piperazinyl units and with alkylene or hydroxyalkylene units, water-soluble polyaminoamides, alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, quaternary diammonium polymers, quaternary polyammonium polymers, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, polyamines , polymers of

 methacry loy loxyalky l (C 1-4) trialkyl (C 1-4) ammonium, and chitosans.  16. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the polymers beneficial for nonionic hair are chosen from vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam copolymers, vinyl acetate homopolymers, polyalkyloxazolines, acetate copolymers of vinyl and alkyl maleate, alkyl acrylate homopolymers, alkyl methacrylate homopolymers, copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic esters, copolymers of acrylonitrile and a nonionic comonomer, polyamides , non-ionic polyurethanes and non-ionic silicone polymers.  17. Composition according to Claim 14, characterized in that the polymers beneficial for anionic hair are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acid or their salts, copolymers of crotonic acid, copolymers of acids or anhydrides <Desc / Clms Page number 28>  monounsaturated with C4-8, polyacrylamides with carboxylate groups, homopolymers or copolymers with sulfonic groups, anionic polyurethanes and anionic grafted silicone polymers.  18. A composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the polymers beneficial for amphoteric hair are chosen from copolymers with vinylic acid units and with basic vinyl units, crosslinked and acylated polyaminoamides, polymers with zwitterionic units, chitosans with carboxyl groups, vinyl ether / maleic anhydride (C1-5) copolymers modified by partial amidation, amphoteric polyurethanes and amphoteric grafted silicone polymers.  19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer or polymers beneficial for the hair are present in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 10%. in weight.  20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains cosmetic additives and / or formulation adjuvants such as volatile or non-volatile silicones, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants or non-ionic, pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, pigments and dyes, oils, waxes including ceramides, organic or mineral UV filters, anti-free radical agents, plasticizing agents, vitamins, proteins, anti-dandruff agents, pH adjusting and fixing agents, antioxidants, preservatives, hair dye precursors and oxidizing agents.  21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a thickened lotion, gel, cream or paste.  22. Cosmetic process comprising the application of a cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous medium or water + solvent, at least one polymer beneficial for the hair and at least one non-phosphorus ionic thickening molecular compound, of molecular weight less than 2,000 g / mol, this molecular compound comprising at least: - two amide groups, - an asymmetric carbon, - a fatty chain comprising at least eight carbons.  23. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous medium or water + solvent, at least one polymer beneficial for the hair and at least one <Desc / Clms Page number 29>  non-phosphorus ionic thickening molecular compound, of molecular weight less than 2,000 g / mol, this molecular compound comprising at least: - two amide groups, - an asymmetric carbon, a fatty chain comprising at least eight carbons, to improve the cosmetic properties of hair.