FR2848449A1 - Make-up cosmetic composition, e.g. mascara, eyeliner, foundation or lipstick, comprises liquid continuous fatty phase structured with structuring polymer(s) comprising polyorganosiloxane group(s) consisting of organosiloxane units - Google Patents

Abstract

Make-up cosmetic composition comprises a liquid continuous fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer having a weight average molecular weight of 500-500000 containing at least one moiety comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1-1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. Make-up cosmetic composition comprises a liquid continuous fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer having a weight average molecular weight of 500-500000 containing at least one moiety comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1-1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions consisting of ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and/or biguanidino groups. The polymer is solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at 25-250 degrees C. The liquid fatty phase comprises at least one compound capable of reducing the enthalpy of fusion of the structuring polymer. The composition contains at least one pigment. The liquid fatty phase, the structuring polymer and the compound capable of reducing the enthalpy of fusion of the structuring polymer form a medium. An Independent claim is also included for use, in a cosmetic composition, of a quantity of compound capable of lowering the enthalpy of fusion and possibly the melting temperature of the polymer to facilitate the application of the composition and to increase the mass and/or gloss of a deposit of the composition.

Description

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COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP,
STRUCTURED BY SILICONE POLYMERS
DESCRIPTION Technical field
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or make-up of the skin, including the hair, and / or the lips of human beings, containing a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil structured by a particular polymer, in particular in the form of a cast makeup product, in particular makeup stick or dome such as lipsticks, which is easy to apply and leads to a large deposit, especially colored, glossy and nonmigrant.

 A cosmetic care composition is a composition which comprises at least one active compound for, for example, treating wrinkles, for moisturizing the skin and the lips, for protecting the skin, the lips and the integuments of the ultraviolet rays, for treating the skin. acne and / or to act as a self-tanner.

 The invention relates more particularly to cosmetic compositions such as makeup products, easy to apply and leading to a large deposit and possibly having holding properties, but also non-transfer and stability.

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State of the art
In cosmetic products, it is common to find a structured liquid fatty phase, namely gelled and / or stiffened; this is particularly the case in solid compositions such as balms and lipsticks, eye shadows, anti-ring products and cast foundations. This structuring is obtained using waxes or fillers. Unfortunately, these waxes and fillers tend to matify the composition, which is not always desirable especially for a lipstick or eyeshadow.

 By liquid fatty phase, in the sense of the application, is meant a liquid fatty phase at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, also called oils. , compatible with each other.

 By structured liquid fatty phase is meant a stiffened or gelled liquid fatty phase.

 By stiffened liquid fatty phase, in the sense of the demand, it is meant that this phase does not flow under its own weight when it is added a silicone polyamide.

 By gelled liquid fatty phase in the sense of the demand, it is meant that the viscosity of this phase is increased due to the addition of silicone polyamide in this fatty phase.

 The structuring of the liquid fatty phase makes it possible in particular to limit its exudation of the solid compositions and, in addition, to limit, after

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 deposit on the skin or lips, the migration of this phase in wrinkles and fine lines, which is particularly sought after for a lipstick or eyeshadow. By migration is meant an overflow of the composition deposited on the skin or the lips, outside of its initial layout.

 The gloss is partly related to the nature of the liquid fatty phase. Thus, it is possible to reduce the rate of waxes and fillers of the composition to increase the gloss of a lipstick, but then the migration of the liquid fatty phase increases. In other words, the rates of waxes and charges necessary for the production of a stick of adequate hardness are a brake on the brightness of the deposit.

 EP-A-1 068 856 [1] discloses solid wax-free cosmetic compositions comprising a polymer-structured liquid fatty phase, in which the fatty phase is mainly a non-silicone oil.

 The document WO-A-01/97758 [2] describes cosmetic compositions based on polyamide resins comprising a structuring agent chosen from the esters and amides of N-acylamino acids and their mixtures. The composition also comprises a solvent for the polyamide resin which may be chosen from unsaturated and saturated fatty alcohols, fatty and / or aromatic carboxylic acid esters, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated alcohols and acids, silicones and mineral oils. and branched chain hydrocarbons; preferably, esters of fatty acids, fatty alcohols, oils

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 mineral spirits, branched hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof.

 The use of fatty phases based on silicone oils makes it possible today to obtain cosmetic compositions having a long life when the oils are little or not volatile, namely a good behavior including color over time (no turn, not pale), and nontransfer compositions when the silicone oils are volatile, not settling on a support such as a glass, a cup, a fabric or a cigarette, placed in contact with the makeup film.

 Currently, the use of silicone oils in cosmetics is limited by the few molecules that can gel these media and thus lead to compositions in solid form such as lipstick sticks or poured foundations for example. The use of cosmetic compositions whose fatty phase is predominantly silicone in most cases leads to problems of compatibility with the ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics.

 In US-A-5,874,069 [3], US-A-5,919,441 [4], US-A-6,051,216 [5], WO-A-02/17870 [6], and WO-A A-02/17871 [7], WO-A-99/06473 [12], US-A-6 353 076 [13], cosmetic compositions such as sticks or deodorant gels, comprising a phase oily silicone oil gelled with a polysiloxane and polyamide based wax, or with a polymer containing siloxane groups and groups capable of hydrogen interactions.

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 In WO-A-02/17870 [6], it is envisaged to add to the composition another structuring agent but the quantities added must be low, for example less than 0.5% in the case of hydroxystearic acid, to preserve the clarity of the product.

 In WO-A-02/17871 [7], it is also envisaged to use a second structuring agent with the silicone polymer in an amount representing 0.5 to 2% by weight of the composition, and a solvent system comprising an organic compound non-silicone, a volatile silicone and optionally another silicone.

 EP-A-1,177,784 [8] illustrates a deodorant composition comprising a liquid phase containing, for example, a volatile silicone and optionally a non-volatile silicone and / or a non-silicone hydrophobic organic liquid, structured by an organic compound with amido groups, with possibly one or more secondary structuring agents, polymers or non-polymers, in smaller proportions. Among the secondary structurants, this document mentions polymers having siloxane groups and hydrogen interaction groups without giving examples or results on a composition using these polymers.

 The sticks obtained by structuring the liquid fatty phase with only one or more silicone gelling polymers do not exhibit sufficient mechanical shear strength, especially when the stick is applied to the lips and / or the skin, leading to a rupture of the stick.

 It follows from the above that the formulation of polymers such as polyamides

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 silicone (PASi) in compatible fatty media makes it possible to obtain solid make-up systems that do not require the use of waxes, and in particular the structuring of highly or totally silicone systems, which is usually difficult to obtain with the traditional structuring wax type.

 However, it has been demonstrated that the application of the formulas thus obtained could be delicate and that the deposit was not obtained in sufficient quantity to allow makeup.

 The application and the deposit are all the less satisfactory that the concentration necessary to obtain a solid system of sufficient hardness is high.

Presentation of the invention
The object of the invention is precisely to provide a skincare and / or makeup composition for the skin and / or the lips, making it possible to overcome the drawbacks and to solve the problems mentioned above. In particular, the object of the invention is to provide a composition whose application is easy and leads to a large deposit, that is to say a large mass, greater in any case than with the compositions of the art. prior. The deposit of larger material gives more makeup effect, and especially in the case of colored, pigmented compositions, the larger color deposit allows makeup, for example lips.

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 Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that the use of particular polymers associated with one or more compounds capable of lowering the enthalpy of fusion and possibly the melting temperature of these polymers allowed structuring, in the absence or presence small quantities of wax, the liquid fatty phases, for example based on silicone oil, in the form of a make-up or care product whose application was easy, with in particular an excellent sliding on application and that this use led to to a large deposit, that is to say large mass, greater in any case with the compositions of the prior art. Deposition of a larger mass of composition gives more makeup effect, and in the case of colored, pigmented compositions, the larger color deposit allows makeup, for example lips, make-up that was not possible to satisfactorily or not at all possible with the compositions of the prior art.

 It has also been noted, just as surprisingly, that the compositions of the invention, including the combination mentioned above, showed improved gloss as regards both the product before application and the deposit, if this property is sought. In addition, the compositions according to the invention, including the combination mentioned above, give a non-migrating film or deposit, which has reinforced and possibly non-transferable and non-sticking properties. to touch.

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 The combination of these particular polymers with one or more compounds capable of lowering their melting enthalpy # H and possibly their melting temperature TF, makes it possible to obtain gels, in particular solid gels, having a good mechanical strength and a rheology correct to allow a deposit in large quantity, with a large mass, sufficient to allow makeup, which also has improved gloss.

 Cosmetic makeup or care compositions comprise the combination of a particular polymer according to the invention and a specific compound which is a compound capable of lowering, reducing the enthalpy #H and possibly the melting temperature TF of the polymer are not described in the prior art.

 The effects obtained thanks to this combination of a particular polymer and a particular compound capable of lowering the enthalpy of melting and possibly lowering the melting point of the polymer, in particular the surprising improvement in the ease of application , the deposited mass, as well as the brightness of the deposit and the product, do not appear in the documents of the prior art.

 The invention applies not only to lip makeup products such as lipsticks, lip pencils, lip glosses, but also to skincare products, including scalp, and lips, such as sun protection stick products on the skin, face or lips, or lip balms,

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 make-up of the skin, both of the face and of the human body, such as foundations poured into sticks or cups, anti-ring products and ephemeral tattoo products, cleaning products including stick, and products of eye makeup such as eyeliners, especially in pencil form, and mascaras including breads for keratinous fibers (eyelashes, eyebrows, hair).

 More specifically, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic skincare and / or makeup composition, comprising: a liquid continuous fatty phase structured by at least one structuring polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500 000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof - the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 ° C. at 250 ° C., said liquid fatty phase comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the melting enthalpy of the structuring polymer,

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 and the liquid fatty phase, the structuring polymer, and the compound capable of lowering the melting enthalpy of the structuring polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

 According to the invention, the term structuring polymer is generally understood to mean a polymer which makes it possible to stiffen or gel the composition by formation of hydrogen bonds.

 The composition of the invention may be in the form of a paste, a solid or a more or less viscous cream. It can be a single or multiple emulsion, especially oil-in-water or water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil, or a rigid or flexible continuous-phase oily gel. . The single or multiple emulsion may comprise an aqueous or oily continuous phase optionally containing dispersed lipid vesicles. In particular, it is in cast form as a stick in a cup, or in a dome, and more particularly in the form of an oily rigid gel, in particular an anhydrous gel and in particular an anhydrous stick. More specifically, it is in the form of a translucent or opaque rigid gel (depending on whether it contains pigments or not), the liquid fatty phase forming the continuous phase. An anhydrous composition will comprise less than 10% by weight of water, for example less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight of water.

 The structuring of the liquid fatty phase can be modulated according to the nature of the structuring polymer and the compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and possibly the melting point used, and

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 may be such that one obtains a rigid structure in the form of a stick, a stick, or a dome, good mechanical strength and already having a shiny appearance. These sticks, especially when they are colored allow, after easy application, to obtain a deposit, especially colored, large mass, shiny, not migrating and good behavior, including color over time. The composition may contain one or more structuring polymers and one or more compounds lowering the melting enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of these polymers.

 Advantageously, the composition of the invention is a composition for the lips and better a composition of lipstick, especially in a stick.

Liquid fatty phase
The liquid fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil generally chosen from hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils.

 An oil is a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water.

 Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one volatile silicone oil.

 According to the invention, the volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils having a flash point equal to or greater than 40 ° C. and advantageously greater than the softening temperature of the polymer.

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 and structuring and / or a viscosity of less than 8 cSt, such as linear, branched or cyclic polydimethyl siloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

 The flash point is the temperature at which vapors emitted by a fuel ignite in contact with a flame, spark or hot spot.

 Examples of such oils include the compounds listed in Table 1 below.

 Advantageously, the volatile oil has a flash point greater than 60 C.

 The non-volatile silicone oils may be polydimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, dimethicone copolyols, alkylmethicone copolyols, cetyldimethicone, silicones containing alkylglyceryl ether groups, silicones with side amines and dilauroyltrimethylolpropane siloxysilicate. The alkyl groups of these oils have in particular from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

 The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention may in particular be non-volatile, linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) that are liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes,

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 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, fluorosilicones containing group (s) during (s) or at the end of chain having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, all or part of the hydrogen atoms is substituted by fluorine atoms, dimethiconols and their mixtures.

 According to the invention, the liquid fatty phase may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile non-silicone oil.

 Within the meaning of the invention, a volatile silicone or non-silicone oil has a flash point preferably of 40 to 135 ° C or no flash point. The volatile oils have at a room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a vapor pressure ranging from 0.02 mm to 300 mm Hg (2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa) and better still from 0 1 to 90 mm Hg (13 Pa to 12,000 Pa). The nonvolatile oils then correspond to a vapor pressure of less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa).

 The silicone oils of the invention have a viscosity preferably chosen in the range of from 5 to 800,000 cSt at 25 ° C, preferably from 10 to 500,000 cSt, and more preferably from 10 to 5,000 cSt.

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Table 1

<Tb>
<tb> Compound <SEP> point <SEP> flash <SEP> viscosity
<tb> (C) <SEP> (cSt)
<tb> Octyltrimethicone <SEP> 93 <SEP> 1,2
<tb> Hexyltrimethicone <SEP> 79 <SEP> 1,2
<tb> Decamethyl
<tb> Cyclopentasiloxane <SEP> 72 <SEP> 4.2
<tb> (cyclopentasiloxane <SEP> or
<tb> D5)
<tb> Octamethylcyclo <SEP> 55 <SEP> 2.5
<tb> tetrasiloxane
<tb> (cyclotetradimethyl)
<tb> siloxane <SEP> or <SEP> D4)
<tb> Dodecamethylcyclo <SEP> 93 <SEP> 7
<tb> hexasiloxane <SEP> (D6)
<tb> Decamethyltetrasiloxane <SEP> 63 <SEP> 1,7
<tb> (L4)
<tb> KF <SEP> 96 <SEP> A <SEP> from <SEP> Shin <SEP> Etsu <SEP> 94 <SEP> 6
<tb> PDMS <SEP> 56 <SEP> 1.5
<tb> (polydimethylsiloxane)
<tb> DC <SEP> 200 <SEP> (1.5 <SEP> cSt) <SEP> from <SEP> Dow <SEP>
<tb> Corning
<Tb>

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<Tb>
<tb> PDMS <SEP> DC <SEP> 200 <SEP> (2 <SEP> cSt) <SEP> from <SEP> 87 <SEP> 2
<tb> Dow <SEP> Corning
<tb> PDMS <SEP> DC <SEP> 200 <SEP> (5 <SEP> cSt) <SEP> 134 <SEP> 5
<tb> of <SEP> Dow <SEP> Corning
<tb> PDMS <SEP> DC <SEP> 200 <SEP> (3 <SEP> cSt) <SEP> 102 <SEP> 3
<tb> of <SEP> Dow <SEP> Corning
<Tb>

In other words, the volatile silicone oil (s) may be chosen, for example, from the group consisting of the compounds of Table 1, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

 The volatile silicone oil may also be chosen from the group of fluorinated silicone oils such as silicones with alkyl and perfluoroalkyl groups, silicones with oxyethylenated / oxypropylene (EO / PP) and perfluorinated side groups, and silicones with perfluorinated side groups and glycerolated side groups, and perfluoroalkylmethylphenylsiloxanes, these oils having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 0.02 mm Hg.

 According to the invention, the liquid fatty phase may contain one or more volatile or non-volatile non-silicone oils. The volatile non-silicone oils may be chosen from the group of hydrocarbon oils and volatile esters and ethers such as volatile hydrocarbons such as isododecane and

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 isohexadecane, C8-C16 isoparaffins, isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoates.

 The volatile non-silicone oil may also be chosen from fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates and fluorinated ester oils.

 By way of example of volatile non-silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the compounds of Table 2 which follows.

Table 2

<Tb>
<tb> Compound <SEP> Point <SEP> Flash
<tb> (C)
<tb> Isododecane <SEP> 43
<tb> Isohexadecane <SEP> 102
<tb> Neopentanoate <SEP> Isodecylate <SEP> 118
<tb> n-butyl ether <SEP> of <SEP> propylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> 60
<tb> 3-ethoxypropionate <SEP> ethyl <SEP> 58
<tb> Acetate <SEP> of <SEP> Methyl Ether <SEP> of <SEP> 46
<tb> propylene <SEP> glycol *
<tb> Isopar <SEP> L <SEP> (isoparaffin <SEP> C11-C13) <SEP> 62
<tb> Isopar <SEP> H <SEP> (isoparaffin <SEP> C11-C12) <SEP> 56
<Tb>

The liquid fatty phase advantageously contains at least 30% and better still at least 40% by weight of silicone oil (s) advantageously having a viscosity of less than 1000 cSt and better still less than 100 cSt because the silicone polymers

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 used in the invention are more soluble in low viscosity silicone oils. It may also contain other oils or non-silicone oil mixture.

 When the fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, it advantageously represents from 3 to 89.4%, and better still from 5 to 60%, for example from 5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

 The liquid fatty phase may also contain other non-silicone oils, for example polar oils such as: hydrocarbon vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, of pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier passionflower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearines Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810,812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; the oils or synthetic esters of formula RaCOORb in which Ra represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid

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 having 1 to 40 and more preferably 7 to 19 carbon atoms and Rb represents a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 and more preferably from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with Ra + Rb> 10 such as for example Purcellin oil (Cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid; and - their mixtures.

 The liquid fatty phase may also contain apolar oils such as hydrocarbons or fluorocarbons, linear or branched, of synthetic or mineral origin, volatile or not, such as volatile paraffin oils (such as isoparaffins, isododecane) or not volatile and its derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, the invention can be implemented, for example, with the following different fat phases:
1) a fatty phase consisting of a mixture of oils comprising at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile silicone oil;

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2) a fatty phase consisting of a mixture of oils comprising at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one non-silicone volatile oil;
3) a fatty phase consisting of a mixture of oils comprising at least one non-volatile silicone oil, at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile non-silicone oil;
4) a fatty phase consisting of a mixture of oils comprising at least one volatile silicone oil, a non-silicone, non-volatile oil and optionally at least one volatile non-silicone oil; and
5) a fatty phase consisting solely of volatile silicone oil (s).

 In cases 1), 2) and 3), the mixture may also comprise a non-volatile non-silicone oil. Of course, in all cases, and in accordance with the invention, the fatty phase comprises a compound capable of lowering the temperature and the heat of fusion of the structuring polymer.

 Generally, the liquid fatty phase represents from 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 20 to 75%.

Structured silicone polymer
The structuring polymer (s) of the composition are solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 ° to 250 ° C.

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 For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more preferably 10 repeating units.

 In the composition of the invention, the structuring silicone polymer generally represents from 0.5 to 80%, preferably from 2 to 60% and more preferably from 5 to 40% of the total weight of the composition.

 Moreover, the weight ratio of structuring polymer / oil (s), for example silicone oils (s) and the like, is preferably from 0.1 to 50%.

 The polymers used as structuring agents in the composition of the invention are polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069 [3], US-A-5,919,441 [4], 6,051,216 [5] and US-A-5,981,680 [11].

According to the invention, the polymers used as structuring agent can belong to the following two families:
1) polyorganosiloxanes having at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain; and or
2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

 Polymers with two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions in the

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dans laquelle : 1) Rl, R2, R3 et R4, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe choisi parmi : - les groupes hydrocarbonés, linéaires, ramifiés ou cycliques, en Ci à C40, saturés ou insaturés, pouvant contenir dans leur chaîne un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène, de soufre et/ou d'azote, et pouvant être substitués en partie ou totalement par des atomes de fluor, - les groupes aryles en C6 à C10, éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupes alkyle en Cl à C4, - les chaînes polyorganosiloxanes contenant ou non un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène, de soufre et/ou d'azote ;
2) les X, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkylène di-yle, linéaire ou ramifié en Cl à C30, pouvant contenir dans sa chaîne un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène et/ou d'azote ;
3) Y est un groupe divalent alkylène linéaire ou ramifié, arylène, cycloalkylène, polymer chain may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the formula:

in which: 1) R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which are identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, in C 1 to C 40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or a plurality of oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, which may be partially or completely substituted by fluorine atoms, - C 6 -C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups; polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms;
2) the X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms;
3) Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene,

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dans laquelle : - T représente un groupe hydrocarboné trivalent ou tétravalent, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, en C3 à C24 éventuellement substitué par une chaîne polyorganosiloxane, et pouvant contenir un ou plusieurs atomes choisis parmi 0, N et S, ou T représente un atome trivalent choisi parmi N, P et Al, et - R5 représente un groupe alkyle en Ci à Cso, linéaire ou ramifié, ou une chaîne polyorganosiloxane, pouvant comporter un ou plusieurs groupes ester, amide, uréthane, thiocarbamate, urée, thiourée et/ou sulfonamide qui peut être lié ou non à une autre chaîne du polymère,
5) les G, identiques ou différents, représentent les groupes divalents choisis parmi : saturated or unsaturated C1 to C50 alkylarylene or arylalkylene, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or may substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 40 alkyl, C 5 -C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted by 1 to 3 C 1 -C 3 alkyl, C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 to C 6 aminoalkyl, or
4) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:

in which: T represents a trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and - R5 represents a linear or branched C1-C50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and or sulfonamide which may or may not be linked to another polymer chain,
5) G, identical or different, represent the divalent groups chosen from:

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où R6 représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, en Ci à C20, à condition qu'au moins 50% des R6 du polymère représente un atome d'hydrogène et qu'au moins deux des groupes G du polymère soient un autre groupe que :

where R6 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl group, provided that at least 50% of the R6 of the polymer represents a hydrogen atom and at least two of the G groups of the polymer are another group than:

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6) n is an integer from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200.

 According to the invention, 80% of the R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups.

 According to the invention, Y may represent various divalent groups, optionally additionally having one or two free valences to establish bonds with other units of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from: a) C 1 to C 20, preferably C 1 to C 10, linear alkylene groups, b) branched alkylene groups which may comprise rings and unsaturated C 3 to C 56 unsaturated groups; ) C5-C6 cycloalkylene groups, d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C1-C40 alkyl groups, e) C1-C20 alkylene groups having 1 to 5 amide groups, f) alkylene groups C1 to C20, having one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, C3 to C8 cycloalkane, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1 to C6 alkylamines, and g) polyorganosiloxane chains of the formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 25>

dans laquelle R1, R2, R3, R4, T et m sont tels que définis ci-dessus, et h) les chaînes polyorganosiloxanes de formule :

in which R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, T and m are as defined above, and h) the polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:

dans laquelle : The polyorganosiloxanes of the second family may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to formula (II):

in which :

<Desc / Clms Page number 26>

 R1 and R3, which are identical or different, are as defined above for the formula (I), R7 represents a group as defined above for R1 and R3, or represents the group of formula -XG-R9 in which X and G are as defined above for the formula (I) and R9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, Ci to Cso optionally having in its chain one or more selected atoms of 0, S and N, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms and / or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups, - R8 represents the group of formula - XG-R9 wherein X, G and R9 are as defined above, - m1 is an integer from 1 to 998, and - m2 is an integer from 2 to 500.

 According to the invention, the polymer used as a structuring agent may be a homopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identical units, in particular units of formula (I) or of formula (II) '.

 According to the invention, it is also possible to use a polymer consisting of a copolymer comprising several different units of formula (I), that is to say a polymer in which at least one of R1, R2, R3, R4, X, G, Y, m and n are different in one of the patterns. The copolymer may also be formed of

<Desc / Clms Page number 27>

 several units of formula (II), wherein at least one of R1, R3, R7, R8, m1 and m2 is different in at least one of the units.

 It is also possible to use a copolymer comprising at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II), the units of formula (I) and the units of formula (II) possibly being identical or different from each other. other.

 According to a variant of the invention, it is also possible to use a copolymer further comprising at least one hydrocarbon unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea and urethane groups, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations.

 These copolymers can be block copolymers, block copolymers or graft copolymers.

 According to a first embodiment of the invention, the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are amide groups of formula -C (O) NH- and -HN-C (O) -.

 In this case, the structuring agent may be a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):

<Desc / Clms Page number 28>

dans lesquelles R1, R2, R3, R4, X, Y, m et n sont tels que définis ci-dessus.

wherein R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, X, Y, m and n are as defined above.

Such a unit can be obtained: either by a condensation reaction between a silicone with [alpha] ends, # -carboxylic acids and one or more diamines, according to the following reaction scheme:

<Desc / Clms Page number 29>

CH2=CH-X'-COOH+H2N-Y-NH2 .. or by reaction of two molecules of α-unsaturated carboxylic acid with a diamine according to the following reaction scheme:

CH2 = CH-X'-COOH + H2N-Y-NH2.

dans lesquels Xl- (CH2) 2- correspond au X défini ci-dessus et Y, R1, R2, R3, R4 et m sont tels que définis ci-dessus ; - soit par réaction d'un silicone à extrémités a, #-NH2 et d'un diacide de formule HOOC-Y-COOH selon le schéma réactionnel suivant : CH2 = CH-X1-CO-NH-Y-NH-CO-X1-CH = CH2 followed by the addition of a siloxane to the ethylenic unsaturations, according to the following scheme:
CH2 = CH-X1-CO-NH-Y-NH-CO-X1-CH = CH2

wherein X1- (CH2) 2- is X defined above and Y, R1, R2, R3, R4 and m are as defined above; or by reaction of a silicone with α,--NH 2 ends and a diacid of formula HOOC-Y-COOH according to the following reaction scheme:

<Desc / Clms Page number 30>

In these polyamides of formula (III) or (IV), m is preferably in the range of from 1 to 700, preferably from 15 to 500 and more preferably from 10 to 100, and n is in particular in the range of 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100 and most preferably from 4 to 25, X is preferably a straight or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and - Y is from preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain or which may comprise rings and / or unsaturations, having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular of 6 carbon atoms.

In the formulas (III) and (IV), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements:
1) 1 to 5 amide, urea, urethane or carbamate groups,
2) a C5 or C6 cycloalkyl group, and

<Desc / Clms Page number 31>

3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

 In the formulas (III) and (IV), the alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one member selected from the group consisting of: - a hydroxy group, - a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, - one to three alkyl groups C1 to C40; - phenyl optionally substituted with one to three C1 to C3 alkyl groups; - C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl; and - C1 to C6 aminoalkyl.

où R5 représente une chaîne polyorganosiloxane, et T représente un groupe de formule :

dans lesquelles a, b et c sont indépendamment des nombres entiers allant de 1 à 10, et R10 est un atome In these formulas (III) and (IV), Y can also represent:

where R5 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group of formula:

wherein a, b and c are independently integers from 1 to 10, and R10 is an atom

<Desc / Clms Page number 32>

 hydrogen or a group such as those defined for R1, R2, R3 and R4.

 In the formulas (III) and (IV), R1, R2, R3 and R4 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.

 As has been seen previously, the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (III) or (IV).

dans laquelle X, Y, n, R1 à R4 ont les significations données ci-dessus, m1 et m2 qui sont différents, sont choisis dans la gamme allant de 1 à 1000, et p est un nombre entier allant de 2 à 300. Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing several units of formula (III) or (IV) of different lengths, ie a polyamide corresponding to the formula:

wherein X, Y, n, R 1 to R 4 have the meanings given above, m 1 and m 2 which are different, are selected in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 300.

 In this formula, the units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the units may be not only of different lengths but also of different chemical structures, for example having Y

<Desc / Clms Page number 33>

dans laquelle R1 à R4, X, Y, mi, m2, n et p ont les significations données ci-dessus et Y1 est différent de Y mais choisi parmi les groupes définis pour Y. Comme précédemment, les différents motifs peuvent être structurés pour former soit un copolymère bloc, soit un copolymère aléatoire, soit un copolymère alterné. different. In this case, the copolymer can respond to the formula:

in which R1 to R4, X, Y, mi, m2, n and p have the meanings given above and Y1 is different from Y but selected from the groups defined for Y. As previously, the different units can be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.

 In this first embodiment of the invention, the structuring agent may also consist of a graft copolymer. Thus, the polyamide with silicone units can be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized with trifunctional amines.

 In this case, the copolymer may comprise at least one unit of formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 34>

dans laquelle X1 et X2 qui sont identiques ou différents, ont la signification donnée pour X dans la formule (I), n est tel que défini dans la formule (I), Y et T sont tels que définis dans la formule (I) , R11 à R18 sont des groupes choisis dans le même groupe que les R1 à R4, mi et m2 sont des nombres situés dans la gamme allant de 1 à 1 000, et p est un nombre entier allant de 2 à 500.

wherein X1 and X2 which are the same or different, have the meaning given for X in formula (I), n is as defined in formula (I), Y and T are as defined in formula (I), R11 to R18 are groups selected from the same group as R1 to R4, mi and m2 are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 500.

 In formula (VII), it is preferred that: p is in the range of 1 to 25, more preferably 1 to 7, - R 11 to R 16 are methyl groups, - T is one of the following formulas:

<Desc / Clms Page number 35>

dans lesquelles R19 est un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe choisi parmi les groupes définis pour R1 à R4, et R20, R21 et R22 sont indépendamment des groupes alkylène, linéaires ou ramifiés, de préférence encore, à la formule :

en particulier avec R20, R21 et R22 représentant -CH2-CH2-, - m1 et m2 soient dans la gamme de 15 à 500, et mieux encore de 15 à 45, - X1 et X2 représentent -(CH2)10-, et - Y représente -CH2-.

in which R19 is a hydrogen atom or a group selected from the groups defined for R1 to R4, and R20, R21 and R22 are independently linear or branched alkylene groups, more preferably, the formula:

especially with R20, R21 and R22 representing -CH2-CH2-, -m1 and m2 are in the range of 15 to 500, and more preferably 15 to 45, - X1 and X2 are - (CH2) 10-, and - Y represents -CH2-.

 These grafted silicone-type polyamides of formula (VII) may be copolymerized with polyamide-silicones of formula (II) to form

<Desc / Clms Page number 36>

 block copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers. The weight percentage of grafted silicone units (VII) in the copolymer can range from 0.5 to 30% by weight.

 According to the invention, as seen above, the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendant chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendant or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.

 According to the invention, the preferred siloxane-based polyamides are: polyamides of formula (III) where m is from 15 to 50; polyamides of formula (III) in which m is from 30 to 500; mixtures of two or more polyamides in which at least one polyamide has a value of m in the range of 15 to 50 and at least one polyamide has a value of m in the range of 30 to 50; - Polymers of formula (V) with mi chosen in the range of 15 to 50 and m2 selected in the range of 30 to 500 with the part corresponding to ml representing 1 to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polyamide and the corresponding part m2 representing 1 to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polyamide; polyamide mixtures of formula (III) combining

<Desc / Clms Page number 37>

1) 80 to 99% by weight of a polyamide where n is 2 to 10, in particular 3 to 6, and
2) 1 to 20% of a polyamide wherein n is in the range of 30 to 500, especially 30 to 100; polyamide mixtures of formula (III) combining
1) 1 to 20% by weight of a polyamide where n is 2 to 10, in particular 3 to 6, and
2) 80 to 99% of a polyamide wherein n is in the range of 30 to 500, in particular 30 to 100; polyamides corresponding to formula (VI) wherein at least one of Y and y1 contains at least one hydroxyl substituent; polyamides of formula (III) synthesized with at least a portion of an activated diacid (chloride, dianhydride or diester of diacid) instead of diacid; polyamides of formula (III) in which X represents - (CH 2) 3 or - (CH 2) 10; and polyamides of formula (III) wherein the polyamides are terminated by a monofunctional chain selected from the group consisting of monofunctional amines, monofunctional acids, monofunctional alcohols, including fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty amines, such as for example, octylamine, octanol, stearic acid and stearyl alcohol.

 According to the invention, the ends of the polymer chains can be terminated by:

<Desc / Clms Page number 38>

 a C 1 to C 50 alkyl ester group introducing, during synthesis, a C 1 -C 20 monoalcohol, a C 1 to C 50 alkyl amide group, while taking a monoacid as a stopper if the silicone is α-diamine; or a monoamine if the silicone is α, β-diacid carboxylic acid.

 According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a copolymer of silicone polyamide and of hydrocarbon-based polyamide, ie a copolymer comprising units of formula (III) or (IV) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide units. In this case, the polyamide-silicone units may be disposed at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide.

 Polyamide-based structuring agents containing silicones can be produced by silyl amidation of polyamides based on fatty acid dimer. This approach involves the reaction of free acid sites existing on a polyamide as terminal sites, with oligosiloxane-monoamine and / or oligosiloxane-diamines (amidation reaction), or alternatively with oligosiloxane alcohols or oligosiloxane diols (reaction of esterification). The esterification reaction requires the presence of acid catalysts as known in the art. It is desirable that the polyamide having free acid sites, used for the amidation or esterification reaction, have a relatively high number of acid termini (e.g., polyamides having high acid numbers, e.g. 20).

<Desc / Clms Page number 39>

 For amidation of the free acid sites of the hydrocarbon polyamides, diamine siloxanes with 1 to 300, more preferably 2 to 50, and more preferably 2.6, 9, 5, 12, 13, 5, 23 or 31 siloxane groups may be used for the reaction with hydrocarbon polyamides based on fatty acid dimers. Diamine siloxanes having 13.5 siloxane groups are preferred and the best results are obtained with siloxane diamine having 13.5 siloxane groups and polyamides containing high indices of carboxylic acid end groups.

 The reactions can be carried out in xylene to extract the water produced from the solution by azeotropic distillation, or at higher temperatures (around 180 to 200 ° C) without solvent.

Typically, amidation efficiency and reaction rates decrease when the siloxane diamine is longer, i.e., when the number of siloxane groups is higher. Free amine sites can be blocked after the initial amidation reaction of diaminosiloxanes by reacting them with either an acidic siloxane or an organic acid such as benzoic acid.

 For the esterification of the free acid sites on the polyamides, this can be carried out in boiling xylene with about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the reactants, of para-toluenesulphonic acid as catalyst.

 These reactions carried out on the terminal carboxylic acid groups of the polyamide lead to

<Desc / Clms Page number 40>

 the incorporation of silicone units only at the ends of the polymer chain.

 A polyamide-silicone copolymer can also be prepared using a free amine polyamide by amidation reaction with an acid group-containing siloxane.

 It is also possible to prepare a structuring agent based on a copolymer between a hydrocarbon polyamide and a silicone polyamide, by transamidation of a polyamide having, for example, an ethylene-diamine component, with an oligosiloxane-α,--diamine, at elevated temperature (for example). example 200 to 300 ° C), to carry out a transamidation so that the ethylene diamine component of the original polyamide is replaced by the oligosiloxane diamine.

 The hydrocarbon polyamide-polyamide-silicone copolymer may also be a graft copolymer comprising a hydrocarbon polyamide backbone with pendant oligosiloxane groups.

 This can be obtained, for example: by hydrosilylation of unsaturated bonds in polyamides based on fatty acid dimers; by silylation of the amide groups of a polyamide; or - by silylation of unsaturated polyamides by means of oxidation, i.e. by oxidizing the unsaturated groups to alcohols or diols, to form hydroxyl groups which are reacted with siloxane carboxylic acids or siloxanes -alcohols. It is also possible to epoxidize the olefinic sites of

<Desc / Clms Page number 41>

 unsaturated polyamides and then reacting the epoxy groups with siloxane amines or siloxanesalcohols.

 According to a second embodiment of the invention, the structuring agent consists of a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups.

 As before, the polymer may comprise polyorganosiloxane units containing two or more urethane and / or urea groups, either in the backbone of the polymer, or on side chains or pendant groups.

dans laquelle les R1, r2, R3, R4, X, Y, m et n ont les significations données ci-dessus pour la formule (I), et U représente -0- ou -NH-, afin que :

corresponde à un groupe uréthane ou urée. The polymers comprising at least two urethane and / or urea groups in the backbone may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the following formula:

wherein R1, R2, R3, R4, X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for formula (I), and U represents -O- or -NH-, so that:

corresponds to a urethane or urea group.

<Desc / Clms Page number 42>

 In this formula (VIII), Y may be a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkylene group optionally substituted with a C 1 to C 15 alkyl group or a C 5 to C 10 aryl group. Preferably, a - (CH 2) 6 - group is used.

 Y may also represent a C 5 to C 12 cycloaliphatic or aromatic group which may be substituted with a C 1 to C 15 alkyl group or a C 5 to C 10 aryl group, for example a radical chosen from the methylene-4-4-biscyclohexyl radical, the radical derived from isophorone diisocyanate, 2,4 and 2,6-tolylenes, 1,5-naphthylene, p-phenylene and 4,4'-biphenylene methane. Generally, it is preferred that Y represents a linear or branched C1-C40 alkylene radical or a C4-C12 cycloalkylene radical.

 Y may also represent a polyurethane or polyurea sequence corresponding to the condensation of several diisocyanate molecules with one or more molecules of couplers of the diol or diamine type. In this case, Y comprises several urethane or urea groups in the alkylene chain.

dans laquelle B1 est un groupe choisi parmi les groupes donnés ci-dessus pour Y, U est -0- ou -NH-, et B2 est choisi parmi : He can answer the formula:

wherein B1 is a group selected from the groups given above for Y, U is -O- or -NH-, and B2 is selected from:

<Desc / Clms Page number 43>

dans laquelle T est un radical trivalent hydrocarboné pouvant contenir un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes tels que l'oxygène, le soufre et l'azote et R5 est une chaîne polyorganosiloxane ou une chaîne alkyle en Ci à C50, linéaire ou ramifiée. # linear or branched C1 to C40 alkylene groups, # C5 to C12 cycloalkylene groups, optionally bearing alkyl substituents, for example one to three methyl or ethyl groups, or alkylene, for example the radical of diol: cyclohexane dimethanol; the phenylene groups which may optionally carry C1-C3 alkyl substituents, and # the groups of formula:

wherein T is a trivalent hydrocarbon radical which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen and R5 is a polyorganosiloxane chain or a linear or branched C1-C50 alkyl chain.

ou T can represent for example:

or

<Desc / Clms Page number 44>

avec w étant un nombre entier allant de 1 à 10 et R5 étant une chaîne polyorganosiloxane.

with w being an integer from 1 to 10 and R5 being a polyorganosiloxane chain.

 When Y is a linear or branched C 1-4 alkylene group, the - (CH 2) 2 - and - (CH 2) 6 - groups are preferred.

 In the formula given above for Y, d may be an integer ranging from 0 to 5, preferably from 0 to 3, more preferably equal to 1 or 2.

avec R5 étant une chaîne polyorganosiloxane. Preferably B2 is a linear or branched C1 to C40 alkylene group, in particular - (CH2) 2- or - (CH2) 6-, or the group:

with R5 being a polyorganosiloxane chain.

 As previously, the polymer constituting the structuring agent may be formed of silicone urethane and / or silicone-urea units of different lengths and / or constitution, and may be in the form of random or random block or block copolymers.

 According to the invention, the silicone may also comprise urethane and / or urea groups, no longer in the backbone but in lateral branches.

 In this case, the polymer may comprise at least one unit of formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 45>

dans laquelle R1, R2, R3, m1 et m2 ont les significations données ci-dessus pour la formule (I), - U représente 0 ou NH, - R23 représente un groupe alkylène en Ci à C40, comportant éventuellement un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes choisis parmi 0 et N, ou un groupe phénylène, et - R24 est choisi parmi les groupes alkyle en Ci à C50, linéaires, ramifiés ou cycliques, saturés ou insaturés, et les groupes phényle éventuellement substitués par un à trois groupes alkyles en Ci à C3.

in which R 1, R 2, R 3, m 1 and m 2 have the meanings given above for formula (I), - U represents 0 or NH, - R 23 represents a C 1 to C 40 alkylene group optionally comprising one or more selected heteroatoms from 0 and N, or a phenylene group, and - R24 is selected from linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1-50 alkyl groups, and phenyl groups optionally substituted by one to three C 1-3 alkyl groups .

 The polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (X) contain siloxane units and urea or urethane groups, and they can be used as structuring agents in the compositions of the invention.

 The siloxane polymers may have a single urea or urethane group by branching or may have two-group urea or

<Desc / Clms Page number 46>

 urethane, or contain a mixture of branching with a urea or urethane group and branching with two groups of urea or urethane.

 They can be obtained from branched polysiloxanes having one or two amino groups by branching, by reacting these polysiloxanes with monoisocyanates.

By way of examples of starting polymers of this type having amino and diamino branches, mention may be made of the polymers corresponding to the following formulas:

In these formulas, the symbol "/" indicates that the segments may be of different lengths and in a random order, and R represents a linear aliphatic group preferably having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and more preferably 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

<Desc / Clms Page number 47>

 Such branched polymers can be formed by reacting a siloxane polymer having at least three amino groups per polymer molecule with a compound having a single monofunctional group (eg, an acid, an isocyanate or isothiocyanate) to react with that group. monofunctional with one of the amino groups and form groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. The amino groups may be on side chains extending from the main chain of the siloxane polymer so that groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are formed on these side chains, or the amino groups may be at the ends of the chain main so that groups capable of hydrogen interaction will be end groups of the polymer.

 As the procedure for forming a polymer containing siloxane units and groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, there may be mentioned the reaction of a siloxane diamine and a diisocyanate in a silicone solvent so as to directly provide a gel. The reaction can be carried out in a silicone fluid, the resulting product being dissolved in the silicone fluid at elevated temperature, the temperature of the system then being reduced to form the gel.

 The preferred polymers for incorporation into the compositions according to the present invention are siloxane-urea copolymers which are linear and which contain urea groups as groups.

<Desc / Clms Page number 48>

 capable of establishing hydrogen interactions in the polymer backbone.

où Ph est un groupe phényle et n est un nombre de 0 à 300, en particulier de 0 à 100, par exemple de 50. As an illustration of a polysiloxane terminated by four urea groups, mention may be made of the polymer of formula:

where Ph is a phenyl group and n is a number from 0 to 300, in particular from 0 to 100, for example 50.

avec l'isocyanate de phényle. This polymer is obtained by reacting the following amino group-containing polysiloxane:

with phenyl isocyanate.

 The polymers of formula (VIII) containing urea or urethane groups in the silicone polymer chain may be obtained by reaction

<Desc / Clms Page number 49>

dans laquelle m, R1, R2, R3, R4 et X sont tels que définis pour la formule (I), et un diisocyanate OCN-Y-NCO où Y a la signification donnée dans la formule (I) ; et éventuellement un coupleur diol ou diamine de formule H2N-B2-NH2 ou HO-B2-OH, où B2 est tel que défini dans la formule (IX). between a silicone with end groups [alpha], # -NH 2 or -OH, of formula:

wherein m, R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4 and X are as defined for formula (I), and an OCN-Y-NCO diisocyanate wherein Y has the meaning given in formula (I); and optionally a diol or diamine coupler of formula H2N-B2-NH2 or HO-B2-OH, where B2 is as defined in formula (IX).

 According to the stoichiometric proportions between the two reactants, diisocyanate and coupler, it will be possible for Y to have formula (IX) with d equal to 0 where d is equal to 1 to 5.

As in the case of silicone polyamides of formula (II) or (III), silicone polyurethanes or polyureas having different length and structure patterns, in particular different length patterns, may be used in the invention. silicone units. In this case, the copolymer can meet, for example, the formula.

<Desc / Clms Page number 50>

 wherein R1, R2, R3, R4, X, Y and U are as defined for formula (VIII) and m1, m2, n and p are as defined for formula (V).

It is also possible to obtain branched silicone polyurethanes or polyureas using, in place of the OCN-Y-NCO diisocyanate, a triisocyanate of formula.

 Thus, a silicone polyurethane or polyurea having branching having an organosiloxane chain with groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions is obtained. Such a polymer comprises, for example, a unit corresponding to the formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 51>

dans laquelle X1 et X2 qui sont identiques ou différents, ont la signification donnée pour X dans la formule (I) , n est tel que défini dans la formule (I) , Y et T sont tels que définis dans la formule (I) , R11 à R18 sont des groupes choisis dans le même groupe que les R1 à R4, ml et m2 sont des nombres situés dans la gamme allant de 1 à 1 000, et p est un nombre entier allant de 2 à 500.

wherein X1 and X2 which are the same or different, have the meaning given for X in formula (I), n is as defined in formula (I), Y and T are as defined in formula (I), R11 to R18 are groups selected from the same group as R1 to R4, ml and m2 are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 500.

 As in the case of polyamides, this copolymer may also comprise non-branching silicone polyurethane units.

 In this second embodiment of the invention, the preferred polyureas and polyurethanes based on siloxanes are: polymers of formula (VIII) in which m is from 15 to 50; polymers of formula (VIII) in which m is from 30 to 500; mixtures of two or more polymers in which at least one polymer has a

<Desc / Clms Page number 52>

m value in the range of 15 to 50 and at least one polymer has a value of m in the range of 30 to 50; polymers of formula (XII) with mi chosen in the range from 15 to 50 and m2 selected in the range from 30 to 500 with the part corresponding to ml representing 1 to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polymer and the corresponding part m2 representing 1 to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polymer; polymer mixtures of formula (VIII) combining
1) 80 to 99% by weight of a polymer where n is 2 to 10, in particular 3 to 6, and
2) 1 to 20% of a polymer wherein n is in the range of 30 to 500, especially 30 to 100; polymer mixtures of formula (VIII) combining
1) 1 to 20% by weight of a polymer where n is 2 to 10, especially 3 to 6; and
2) 80 to 99% of a polymer where n is in the range of 30 to 500, in particular 30 to 100; copolymers comprising two units of formula (VIII) in which at least one of Y contains at least one hydroxyl substituent; polymers of formula (VIII) synthesized with at least a portion of an activated diacid (chloride, dianhydride or diester of diacid) instead of diacid; polymers of formula (VIII) in which X represents - (CH 2) 3 or - (CH 2) 10 -; and polymers of formula (VIII) in which the polymers are terminated by a chain

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 monofunctional group selected from the group consisting of monofunctional amines, monofunctional acids, monofunctional alcohols, including fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty amines, such as for example octylamine, octanol, stearic acid and the like. stearyl alcohol.

 As in the case of polyamides, it is possible to use in the invention copolymers of polyurethane or polyureasilicone and polyurethane or polyurea hydrocarbon by carrying out the synthesis reaction of the polymer in the presence of an [alpha] difunctional non-silicone type, for example a polyester, a polyether or a polyolefin.

 As has been seen previously, the structuring agents consisting of homopolymers or copolymers of the invention may have siloxane units in the main chain of the polymer and groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, or in the main chain of the polymer. or at the ends thereof, or on side chains or branches of the main chain. This can correspond to the following five provisions:

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dans lesquelles, la ligne continue est la chaîne principale du polymère siloxane et les carrés représentent les groupes capables d'établir des interactions hydrogène.

wherein the continuous line is the main chain of the siloxane polymer and the squares represent the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions.

In case (1), groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged at the ends of the main chain. In case (2), two groups capable of establishing interactions

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 hydrogen, are arranged at each end of the main chain.

 In case (3), groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged inside the main chain in repetitive patterns.

 In cases (4) and (5), these are copolymers in which the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged on branches of the main chain of a first series of patterns which are copolymerized with patterns not having groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. The values n, x and y are such that the polymer has the desired properties as structuring agent for fatty phases, in particular based on silicone oil.

 According to the invention, the structuring of the liquid fatty phase which may contain at least one silicone oil is obtained using one or more of the polymers mentioned above, in combination with one or more compounds likely to to reduce the temperature and the enthalpy of fusion of this or these polymers.

 As examples of usable polymers, mention may be made of silicone polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US-5,981,680.

 The polymers and copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a softening temperature of 65 ° C. to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a temperature of

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 softening from 70 to 130 ° C. and better still from 80 ° C. to 105 ° C. This softening temperature is lower than that of the known structuring polymers, which facilitates the use of the polymers allows the use of volatile oils and limits the deterioration of the liquid fatty phase.

 They have good solubility, especially in silicone oils and lead to macroscopically homogeneous compositions. Preferably, they have an average molecular weight of 500 to 200,000, for example 1,000 to 100,000, preferably 2,000 to 200,000.

Compound capable of lowering the melting enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer
The composition according to the invention contains one or more compounds capable of lowering, reducing, reducing the melting enthalpy (# H) and optionally the melting temperature (TF) of the structuring polymer; preferably capable of lowering the enthalpy of fusion (AH) and the melting temperature (TF) - This or these compounds make it possible to facilitate the application of the compositions and to improve the deposition obtained with these compositions, that is to say that is to say that this deposit is of a larger mass than that obtained under the same conditions with the compositions not containing these compounds. The one or more compounds are compounds capable of lowering, reducing, reducing the heat of fusion and possibly the

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 melting temperature of the structuring polymer (s) of the fatty phase.

 By lowering the enthalpy of fusion, it is meant that the polymer once it has been brought into contact with this or these compounds has an enthalpy reduced to the mass of the polymer present, lower than that which it presents to the pure state.

 The melting enthalpy is measured using a differential scanning calorimeter, for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Inst., By the technique known as calorimetric analysis with power compensation ( Differential Scanning Calorimetry or DSC), in which a rise in temperature of 2 C per minute is applied.

 The enthalpy of fusion corresponds to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

 The thermogram is the differential calorimetric curve with power composition: this curve represents the amount of heat supplied per unit of time on the ordinate, as a function of the temperature on the abscissa.

 The lowering of the AH fusion enthalpy is a function of the amount of compound (s) above in the composition. This amount is such that it is sufficient to cause a decrease in the enthalpy of fusion AH, this reduction is generally at least 3 J / g of pure polymer, preferably at least 4 J / g of pure polymer more preferably 5 to 10 J / g.

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 When the compound (s) are included in such amounts, all the effects described above are observed. In other words, the incorporation of these compounds, potentially capable of causing a decrease in the enthalpy of fusion, in a sufficient quantity, effectively allows them to exert this initially only potential effect.

 In addition, the compound (s) are generally also capable of lowering the melting temperature (TF) of the structuring polymer.

 By lowering the melting temperature, the melting point means that the polymer, once it has been brought into contact with this or these compounds has a melting temperature lower than that which it has in the state pure.

 According to the invention, the melting temperature, the melting point, corresponds to the melting point, which is measured using a differential scanning calorimeter, for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Inst., By the so-called differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) technique, in which a rise in temperature of 2 C per minute is applied.

The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram obtained. The thermogram has been defined above.

 To evaluate the lowering of the melting temperature caused by compounds capable of lowering the melting point included in

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 the composition of the invention begins by measuring the melting temperature of the pure polymer by the above method, then solubilizing the polymer beyond its Tf previously determined, with one or more compounds that can lower, decrease, the melting temperature and the melting point is measured by the same method under the same conditions on the mixture of the polymer and the compound (s).

 The lowering of the melting temperature is a function of the amount of compounds (s) above in the composition. This amount should be such that it is sufficient to cause a decrease, an effective lowering of the melting temperature of the polymer (s). This reduction, this lowering is generally at least 3 C, preferably at least 4 C, more preferably 5 to 20 C.

 In addition, the compound (s) capable of lowering the temperature and the enthalpy of fusion are advantageously compounds which lead to macroscopically homogeneous compositions and / or which are soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase of the composition.

 A macroscopically homogeneous composition is a composition for which a single phase is observed at room temperature at ambient temperature (between 20 and 25 ° C.).

 The compound capable of lowering the melting enthalpy of the structuring polymer is preferably soluble in the fatty phase of the composition, that is to say that the compound is found under

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 the form of individualized molecules distributed in the fatty phase.

 The compound capable of lowering the melting enthalpy of the structuring polymer is advantageously dispersible in the fatty phase of the composition, that is to say that the compound is in the form of clusters of molecules, having a size not detectable with the naked eye, distributed homogeneously in the fatty phase.

 These properties can be described in that these compounds are compatible with the structuring polymer and optionally with the other components of the composition.

 Preferably, the compounds capable of lowering the melting enthalpy of the polymer also lower the melting temperature.

 More preferably, these compounds lower the melting temperature and lead to macroscopically homogeneous compositions.

 In other words, preferably, the particular compounds used in the composition of the invention must simultaneously satisfy the three conditions listed above and relating to the lowering of the melting temperature, the lowering the melting enthalpy and forming macroscopically homogeneous compositions.

 The compounds capable of causing a decrease in the enthalpy and optionally in the melting point of the structuring polymer are chosen from hydrocarbon compounds and / or

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 silicone compounds comprising at least one function comprising a free electron pair capable of interacting with the hydrogen bonds of the polymer. This function is chosen, for example, from the hydroxyl (alcohol), carboxyl, amino, primary, secondary, and tertiary amine, urea and urethane, ether and ester functions.

 The preferred function is the alcohol function and, as a result, the compounds capable of causing a decrease in the enthalpy of fusion and, optionally, the melting temperature of the structuring polymer are preferably chosen from monoalcohols, polyols, such as diols, and triols, etc., and polyol ethers.

 In particular, the compound (s) capable of causing a decrease in enthalpy and optionally the melting point may be chosen from silicone diols.

 Suitable silicone diols are described in particular in US-A-5 969 172 to the description of which reference may be made, and are marketed by Societe Generale Electric.

 The compounds of this document have the following formula: MaM'bDcD'dTeT'fQg where the indices a, c, d, e, f and g are zero or a positive integer, provided that the sum of the indices b, d and f is one or more; where M has the formula:

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R3ISiO1 / 2, wherein each R1 independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 40 carbon atoms;
M 'has the formula.

R3II-bRIIIhSio1 / 2, wherein each RII is independently a monodivalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, RIII is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical selected from the group consisting of H2 (OH) CCH (OH) CH2OCH2CH2CH2- and (HOCH2) 2C (CH 2 CH 2) CH 2 OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - and the index h is 1, 2 or 3;
D has the formula.

R2IVSiO2 / 2, wherein each RIV is independently a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 40 carbon atoms;
From the formula.

 R2-1VR1VISiO2 / 2, where each Rvr is independently a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms

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carbon, Rv is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical selected from the group consisting of H2 (OH) CCH (OH) CH2OCH2CH2CH2- and (HOCH2) 2C (CH2CH3) CH2OCH2CH2CH2- and the index i is 1 or 2;
T has the formula: RVIISiO3 / 2 where each RVII is independently a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 40 carbon atoms;
You have the formula:
RVIIISiO3 / 2, wherein RVIII is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical selected from the group consisting of H2 (OH) CCH (OH) CH2OCH2CH2CH2- and (HOCH2) 2C (CH2CH3) CH2OCH2CH2CH2- and Q has the formula SiO4 / 2.

 The preferred compounds are the compounds indicated in the following Table 3:

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Table 3

<Tb>
<tb> Compound <SEP> Structure <SEP> Function
<tb> 1 <SEP>MD4'M<SEP> 1,3-DIOL
<tb> 2 <SEP>M'D3M'<SEP> 1,3-DIOL
<tb> 3 <SEP> MD6, <SEP>4D'SM<SEP> 1,3-DIOL
<tb> 4 <SEP>MD10D'7M<SEP> 1,3-DIOL
<tb> 5 <SEP>M'D3M'<SEP> 1, <SEP> 2 <SEP> -DIOL <SEP>
<tb> 6 <SEP>M'D5M'<SEP> 1,3-DIOL
<tb> 7 <SEP>MD6.4D'5M<SEP> 1, <SEP> 2-DIOL <SEP>
<tb> 8 <SEP> MD3D <SEP> 3M <SEP> 1, <SEP> 2-DIOL <SEP>
<tb> 9 <SEP>MD7D'3M<SEP> 1,3-DIOL
<tb> 10 <SEP>M'D5M'<SEP> 1,2-DIOL
<tb> 11 <SEP>M'D7,5M'<SEP> 1,3-DIOL
<tb> 12 <SEP>MD7D'3M<SEP> 1,2-DIOL
<tb> 13 <SEP>M'D7,5M'<SEP> 1,2-DIOL
<tb> 14 <SEP>M'D10M'<SEP> 1,3-DIOL
<tb> 15 <SEP>M'D10M'<SEP> 1,2-DIOL
<tb> 16 <SEP>MD20D'3M<SEP> 1,3-DIOL
<tb> 17 <SEP>M'D25M'<SEP> 1, <SEP> 2 <SEP> -DIOL <SEP>
<Tb>

In Table 3: 1,3-DIOL means that the functional group, ie, RIII, Rv or RVIII is a (HOCH2) 2C (CH2CH3) CH2OCH2CH2CH2- group, i.e. a group derived from the ether monoallyl trimethylolpropane (TMPMAE), and 1,2-DIOL means that this functional group is a group H2 (OH) CCH (OH) CH 2 OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - namely a group derived from monoallylglycerine.

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 In Table 3, the most preferred compounds are M'D3M ', M'D7,5M', M'D10M 'and M'D25M'.

 The compounds capable of causing a decrease in enthalpy and optionally in the melting temperature may also be chosen from oxyalkylenated polydi (alkyl) siloxane compounds, in which the alkyl groups of the siloxane have from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and the alkylene group has 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably the alkyl groups of the polydi (alkyl) siloxane are methyl groups and the oxyalkylene groups are oxypropylene and / or oxyethylene groups and the compounds are PDMS oxypropylene and / or oxyethylene .

 Compounds of this type are known under the name Dimethicone polyol or copolyol (PDMS-OE-OP), among which mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylene (7/9 EO) oxypropylene (10/14 OP) from DEGUSSA, sold under the reference ABIL B 8873, or the polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylene (200 E) oxypropylene (200 P) known under the name INCI PEG / PPG-17/18 dimethicone and marketed by Dow Corning under the name Q2-5220 RESIN edit.

 Other compounds capable of causing a decrease in the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer are the monoalkyl ethers of polyalkylene (1-4 carbon atoms) glycols, for example the monoalkyl ethers of polypropylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycol, such

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that the monomyristic ether of polypropylene glycol of formula:
H- [OCH (CH 3) CH 2] n O- (CH 2) 13 -CH 3 with n = 2 to 200.

 Another family of compounds capable of causing a decrease in the enthalpy and possibly the melting temperature of the structuring polymer are linear or branched aliphatic monoalcohols having more than 8 carbon atoms, for example from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, a preferred alcohol being octyldodecanol.

 It is possible to include a single compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer or polymers or else several of these compounds, each of which may be chosen from any one of the groups and families of compounds defined above. .

 The content of compound or compound (s) capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting point of the polymer (s) is generally from 5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight. in weight.

 This amount is the sufficient amount defined above and which makes it possible to obtain a reduction in the enthalpy of melting of the polymer and possibly in the melting point of the polymer.

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 respectively generally at least 3 J / g and at least 3 C.

 The use of enthalpy reducing compounds and optionally the melting temperature of polymers, such as PASi, in cosmetic compositions is not known in the art.

The combination of such compounds with the particular polymers according to the invention is neither described nor suggested in the prior art. There is nothing to suggest, in the light of the prior art, that such an association could lead to a surprising improvement in the properties, in particular the ease of application and possibly the gloss of a cosmetic composition comprising this combination, as well as that to an improvement of the properties, in particular of the mass and possibly of the gloss of a deposit obtained from a cosmetic composition comprising this association.

 The quantities of the enthalpy lowering agent (s) and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer (s) and structuring structurant (s) may be chosen according to the desired hardness and desired stability of the compositions and depending on the specific application envisaged. The respective quantities of (at least one) structuring polymer and of the enthalpy lowering compound (s) and optionally the melting point may be such that a disintegrable solid which does not flow under the effect of its own weight be obtained.

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 According to one of the modes of the invention, corresponding to a stick, the composition preferably has a hardness ranging from 20 to 2000 g, and more preferably from 20 to 900 g, in particular from 20 to 600 g and for example from 150 to 450 g. This hardness can be measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into said composition and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-TXT2i from Rheo) equipped with a 25 mm ebonite cylinder high and 8 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is made at 20 C in the center of five samples of said composition. The cylinder is introduced into each sample composition at a pre-speed of 2 mm / s and then at a speed of 0.5 mm / s and finally removed at a post-speed of 2 mm / s, the total displacement being 1 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak.

The measurement error is + 50 gf.

 Hardness can also be measured by the so-called butter cutter method, which consists in cutting a 12.7 mm diameter lipstick and measuring the hardness at 20 C, using a DFGHS dynamometer. 2 of the company Indelco-Chatillon moving at a speed of 100 mm / minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in gramforce) needed to cut a stick under these conditions. According to this method, the hardness of a stick composition according to the invention ranges from 30 to 300 g, preferably from 30 to 250 g, and for example from 30 to 200 g, better still from 30 to 120 g, when the diameter of the stick is equal to 12.7 mm.

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 The hardness of the composition may also be lower as long as the composition is self-supporting and can easily disintegrate to form a satisfactory deposit on the skin and the lips. Thanks to the presence in the composition of the invention of a compound capable of lowering the enthalpy of melting and optionally the temperature of the polymer, in all cases, easy application and satisfactory deposition are obtained in sufficient quantities.

 In addition, with these hardnesses, the composition of the invention is resistant to shocks.

 Generally, the weight ratio silicone polymer / compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer is generally in the range from 0.1 to 50, preferably from 0.5 to 25 and preferably 1 to 15.

 The structuring silicone polymer preferably represents 5 to 30% by weight of the composition.

Other additives
The composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any ingredient usually used in the field concerned, and in particular those chosen from solid particles (fillers and pigments), soluble dyes in polyols or in the fatty phase, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, liposoluble polymers, in particular hydrocarbon-based polymers such as polyalkylenes or vinyl polylaurate, liquid fatty phase structuring agents, waxes,

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 gums, resins, surfactants such as tri-oleyl phosphate, additional cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as water, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, liquid lanolin, essential fatty acids, lipophilic sunscreens or soluble in the polyols, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may also contain lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type. These ingredients, apart from water, may be present in the composition in the usual manner in a proportion of 0 to 20%, preferably of 0.01 to 20%, of the total weight of the composition and better still of 0.1 to 10%. .

 In the case where the composition contains an aqueous phase, which is the case for a single or multiple emulsion, this aqueous phase may represent from 0.1 to 70% of the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 40% and better from 1 to 20%. This aqueous phase may contain any water-miscible compound such as polyols and may be optionally gelled by a suitable structurant.

 Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged.

 The compositions of the invention may in particular contain one or more waxes, for example polyethylene wax, but the use of wax is avoided if products are to be obtained.

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 brilliant, even transparent. Generally, the amount of wax does not exceed 20%, preferably 10%; it represents for example from 3 to 5% of the total weight of the composition. Even in the absence of waxes or in the presence of a small amount of waxes, the compositions according to the invention have all the advantageous properties listed above.

 The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a care composition, optionally tinted, of keratin materials such as skin, lips and / or integuments, in the form of a sunscreen or care composition. , especially in the form of make-up remover, in the form of a stick, a dome, or in a cast form. It can in particular be used as a basis for care for the skin, integuments or lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind, skin care cream, nails or hair) .

 The composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a transparent gel, especially a transparent anhydrous stick.

 The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored product for making up the skin, in particular a foundation, optionally having care or treatment properties, a blush, a blush or a blush. eyelids, an anti-ring product, an eyeliner, a body make-up product; make-up of lips such as lipstick, lip gloss or pencil, possibly with

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 care or treatment; make-up of integuments such as nails, eyelashes, especially in the form of bread mascara, eyebrows and hair, especially in the form of a pencil.

 In particular, the composition of the invention may be a cosmetic product containing cosmetic active ingredients such as essential oils, vitamins, moisturizers, filters and ceramides.

 In the case of make-up compositions, hydrophobic or hydrophilic solid particles may constitute the pigment (s) making it possible to make up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments.

 Of course, the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely to contain a physiologically acceptable medium that is non-toxic and may be applied to the skin, the integuments or the lips of human beings. By cosmetically acceptable is meant in the sense of the invention a composition of appearance, smell and pleasant touch.

 Furthermore, the makeup or care compositions in accordance with the invention may comprise at least 10% by weight of a non-volatile oil (silicone or non-silicone) and / or a pasty or viscous product in order to obtain a comfortable product and not tugging.

 The term pasty product means a viscous fatty substance containing a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. For pasty fat within the meaning of the invention is meant fatty substances having a point of

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melting ranging from 20 to 55 ° C., preferably 25 to 45 ° C., and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poise), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa. , measured at Contraves TV or Rhéomat 180, equipped with a mobile rotating at 240 min-1 for a power supply at 60 Hz or 200 min-2 for a power supply at 50 Hz. Or measured in the Newtonian domain of a flow observed on a Haake Rs75 rheometer in a cone-plate plane at 40 ° C.
The person skilled in the art can choose the mobile device for measuring the viscosity, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the viscosity of the pasty compound tested.

 The melting point values correspond, according to the invention and as already indicated above, to the most endothermic melting peak measured by the "Differential Scanning Calorimetry" method with a rise in temperature of 2 C / min.

 By way of example of pasty products that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolines or oxypropylenated lanolines or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa.s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55 C, preferably 30 to 40 C, and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or alcohols, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about 20 to 35 ° C. and / or viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s) such as tri-isostearyl citrate or cetyl citrate; the

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 arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; esters of cholesterol such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof. As vegetable triglycerides, hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as Rheox's "THIXINR", may be used.

 Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55 C, for example from 20 to 40 C, such as stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.

 The pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in a proportion of 0 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the proportion of 0.1 to 45% by weight and even more preferably in the proportion of 2 to 30% by weight.

 According to the invention, the composition generally further comprises solid particles selected from fillers and pigments (including pearlescent pigments), and mixtures thereof.

 By pigments is meant any solid particle insoluble in the composition used to give and / or modify a color and / or an iridescent appearance.

 The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. The inorganic pigments can be chosen, for example,

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 among zinc oxides, iron oxides, titanium oxides and mixtures thereof. Mention may thus be made, among the inorganic pigments, of titanium dioxide or zinc dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pigments may represent from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 40% and better still from 2 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, if they are present.

 According to the invention, the composition may further contain a dyestuff which may be selected from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, and mixtures thereof.

 This dyestuff is generally present in a proportion of 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition; preferably from 5 to 30%, if present. It should be noted that a coloring effect can also be provided by the pigments (and pearlescent pigments) already described above in the context of solid particles.

 Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, orange DC 5, the yellow quinoline, the annatto.

 The hydrophilic dyes are in particular beet juice and methylene blue. The dyes

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 soluble can represent from 0 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better from 0.1 to 6% (if present).

 The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

It can be manufactured by the process of heating the polymer to at least its softening temperature, adding theres waxes and / or pasty compounds, the oil (s), the compound (s) lowering the enthalpy and possibly the melting temperature of the polymer, and then mixing everything until a clear solution is obtained. Coloring materials and / or solid particles and additives are then added with stirring. The homogeneous mixture obtained can then be poured into a suitable mold such as a lipstick mold or directly into the packaging articles, housing or cup in particular.

 The subject of the invention is also a structured solid composition for making up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, containing at least one pigment in an amount sufficient to make up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments and a continuous fatty phase. liquid, structured by at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the pattern or as a graft, and

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 at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., said liquid fatty phase comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer, said composition possibly being in the form of a solid, and the pigment, the liquid fatty phase, the compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer and the structuring polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

This make-up composition is preferably self-supporting.

 The invention also relates to a structured composition of lipstick containing at least one pigment in sufficient quantity for makeup the lips and a continuous liquid fatty phase structured by at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one pattern comprising:

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 at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer, said composition being in the form of a solid and the pigment, the liquid fatty phase, the structuring polymer, and the compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

 The composition of the invention may be in the form of mascara bread, eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, blush, makeup remover, body makeup product, eye shadow or cheeks, anti-ring product.

 The subject of the invention is also a makeup stick for the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, and in particular the lips, containing at least one pigment in an amount sufficient to make up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, and a continuous liquid fatty phase structured by at least one polymer

<Desc / Clms Page number 79>

 homopolymer or copolymer with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organoloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer, and the pigment, the fatty phase, the polymer, and the compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer forming a physiolysis medium ogically acceptable.

 The invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care, makeup or treatment of keratinous substances of human beings, comprising the application to keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

 The subject of the invention is also the use in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, containing a continuous liquid fatty phase, of a sufficient quantity of at least one

<Desc / Clms Page number 80>

 polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the motif chain or in the form of a graft and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at temperature ambient and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase optionally being partially or totally composed of silicone oil (s) having a flash point equal to or greater than 40 ° C. and comprising at least least a compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting point of the structuring polymer, said composition being in the form of form of a self-supporting solid hardness ranging from 20 to 2000 gf and preferably from 20 to 900 gf and preferably from 20 to 600 gf.

 The subject of the invention is also the use of a continuous liquid fatty phase structured essentially by a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least a pattern comprising:

<Desc / Clms Page number 81>

 at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase possibly being partially constituted or totally volatile oil (s) having a flash point equal to or greater than 40 C and comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, easy to apply and / or giving a large mass deposit.

 The subject of the invention is also the use of a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having a weight average molecular weight of 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one group; polyorganosiloxane, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate and thiocarbamate groups,

<Desc / Clms Page number 82>

 urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, containing a liquid continuous liquid phase and at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer, for structuring said composition in the form of a self-supporting solid.

 The invention also relates to the use of the combination of a continuous liquid fatty phase structured essentially by a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in a chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester and amide groups; , sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 C, the fatty phase liquid possibly consisting partially or totally of volatile oil (s)

<Desc / Clms Page number 83>

 having a flash point equal to or greater than 40 C and comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, as an agent for facilitate the application of said composition, and / or optionally increase its gloss and the brightness of a deposit of said composition.

 The invention further relates to the use of a continuous liquid fatty phase, essentially structured by a sufficient quantity of at least one structuring polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500. 000, comprising at least one unit comprising: - at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in a chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and - at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C , the liquid fatty phase optionally being partially or totally composed of volatile oil (s) and comprising at least one compound that can lower the alpine and

<Desc / Clms Page number 84>

 optionally the melting temperature of the polymer, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, as an agent for increasing the mass of a deposit of said composition.

 According to an advantageous characteristic of these uses, the composition has a hardness of from 20 to 2000 g, preferably from 20 to 900 g and better still from 20 to 600 g.

 The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for facilitating the application of a cosmetic composition containing a liquid fatty phase of structuring said fatty phase by a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500 000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature 25 to 250 C, and to add at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and possibly the temperature of melting the polymer to the composition.

<Desc / Clms Page number 85>

 The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for increasing the mass of a deposit of a cosmetic composition containing a liquid fatty phase of structuring said fatty phase by a sufficient amount of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight-average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the phase liquid fat at a temperature of 25 to 250 C, and to add at least one compound capable of reducing the enthalpy and possibly the temperature melting point of the polymer to the composition.

 The invention finally relates to the use in a cosmetic composition or a physiologically acceptable composition comprising a continuous liquid fatty phase structured by at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least a pattern comprising:

<Desc / Clms Page number 86>

 at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 C, of a sufficient amount of a compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer to facilitate the application of said composition and increase the mass of a deposit of said composition.

Detailed exposition of the invention
The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples of make-up formulation, given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes. Quantities are given in mass%. The chemical compounds are given mainly in CTFA name ("International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary").

Example 1 (comparative)
In this non-example according to the invention, a lip and face makeup formula is produced from exclusively silicones.

<Desc / Clms Page number 87>

 with, as structuring agent, silicone polyamide and, as oil, a phenyl silicone.

 The formula is then pigmented and poured in pots.

The composition of the formula produced is given below:

<Tb>
<tb> Code <SEP> Composition <SEP>%
<tb> (name <SEP> CTFA)
<tb> Polyamide <SEP> silicone <SEP> 25
<tb> of <SEP> DP * 45 <SEP> obtained
<tb> according to <SEP> teaching
<tb> of the <SEP> patent
<tb> US-5 <SEP> 981 <SEP> 680
<tb> Phenylated <SEP> silicone <SEP> 66,34
<tb> Pigments <SEP> 8.66
<tb> TOTAL <SEP> 100 <SEP>
<Tb>
* DP: Polymerization degree.

 The silicone polymer is melted at 110 ° C. and mixed with a part of the oil to obtain a liquid mixture. The pigments are in parallel ground in the remaining oil. Finally, the pulverulent ground material is mixed with the more gelling oil mixture at 110.degree.

 The deposit obtained on the hand from the stick is fine and inhomogeneous.

 In conclusion, it appears that the formula prepared in this comparative example is hard and deposits only very little color during the application which is delicate.

<Desc / Clms Page number 88>

Example 2
In this example, according to the invention, a make-up formula whose composition is analogous to that of claim 1, except that 20% by weight of a compound according to the invention is added to the formula. lowering the melting temperature of the polymer, namely octyldodecanol.

The composition of the formula produced is given below:

<Tb>
<tb> Code <SEP> Composition <SEP>%
<tb> (name <SEP> CTFA)
<tb> Polyamide <SEP> silicone <SEP> 25
<tb> of <SEP> DP * 45 <SEP> obtained
<tb> according to <SEP> teaching
<tb> of the <SEP> patent
<tb> US-5 <SEP> 981 <SEP> 680
<tb> Octyldodecanol <SEP> 2 <SEP> 0 <SEP>
<tb> Phenylated <SEP> Silicone <SEP> 46,34
<tb> Pigments <SEP> 8.66
<tb> TOTAL <SEP> 100 <SEP>
<Tb>
* DP: Polymerization degree.

 The silicone polymer is melted at 110 ° C. and mixed with a portion of the silicone oil and with octyldodecanol to obtain a liquid mixture. The pigments are in parallel ground in the remaining oil. Finally, the pulverulent ground material is mixed with the more gelling oil mixture at 110.degree.

<Desc / Clms Page number 89>

 The aspect at room temperature of the 12.7 mm stick obtained after demoulding is smooth, homogeneous and brilliant.

 The deposit obtained under the same conditions as in Example 1 is greater than that of Example 1.

 The deposit is brilliant.

 In conclusion, thanks to the presence of octyldodecanol, the formula according to the invention is of better application and the greater color deposit, which allows the makeup of the lips, for example. On the other hand, there is an improvement in the brightness of the product as the deposit.

<Desc / Clms Page number 90>

 REFERENCES [1] EP-A-1 068 856 [2] WO-A-01/97758 [3] US-A-5 874 069 [4] US-A-5,919,441 [5] US-A-6,051 216 [6] WO-A-02/17870 [7] WO-A-02/17871 [8] EP-A-1,177,784 [9] US-A-5,412,004 [10] EP-A-1,048 686 [11] US-A-5,981,680 [12] WO-A-99/06473 [13] US-A-6,353,076.

Claims (67)

Cosmetic skincare and / or makeup composition, comprising: a continuous liquid fatty phase structured by at least one structuring polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups; , thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations, the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., said liquid fatty phase comprising at least a compound capable of lowering the melting enthalpy of the structuring polymer, and the liquid fatty phase, the structuring polymer, and the compound capable of lowering the enthalpy of fusion of the structuring polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.  2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one oil selected from hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone and / or fluorinated. <Desc / Clms Page number 92>  3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one silicone oil.  4. Composition according to claim 3, wherein the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one volatile silicone oil.  5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile non-silicone oil.  6. Composition according to claim 4 or 5, wherein the volatile silicone oil has a flash point equal to or greater than 40 C and advantageously greater than the softening temperature of the structuring polymer.  7. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 6, wherein the volatile silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of the following compounds: octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane D5, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane D4 dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane D6, heptamethyl octyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane of 1.5 cSt, polydimethylsiloxane of 2 cSt, polymethylsiloxane of 3 cSt, polydimethylsiloxane of 5 cSt, and mixtures thereof.  8.Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the volatile oil has a flash point of 40 to 135 C. <Desc / Clms Page number 93>  9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid fatty phase further comprises a non-volatile silicone oil.  10. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 9, wherein the liquid fatty phase contains at least 30% and more preferably at least 40% by weight of silicone oil.  11. Composition according to claim 3, wherein the volatile oil represents from 3 to 89.4%, preferably from 5 to 60%, for example from 5 to 10%, of the total weight of the composition.  12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the structuring polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to the formula:

 in which .  1) R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, in C 1 to C 40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, and <Desc / Clms Page number 94>  in which :

4) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: (3) Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to Cso group, which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 40 alkyl, C 5 -C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups C3, C1-C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1-C6 aminoalkyl, or 2) the X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms;  which may be partially or completely substituted by fluorine atoms, - C 6 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, - polyorganosiloxane chains which may or may not contain one or more oxygen atoms, sulfur and / or nitrogen; <Desc / Clms Page number 95>

5) G, identical or different, represent the divalent groups chosen from:  T represents a trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom; chosen from N, P and Al, and - R5 represents a linear or branched C1-C50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups; which may or may not be linked to another polymer chain, <Desc / Clms Page number 96>

 where R6 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl group, provided that at least 50% of the R6 of the polymer represents a hydrogen atom and that at least two of the G groups of the polymer are another group than:

6) n is an integer from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200.  13. Composition according to claim 12, in which Y represents a group chosen from: a) linear C 1 -C 20, preferably C 1 -C 10, alkylene groups, b) branched alkylene groups which may comprise unsubstituted rings and unsaturations. C30 to C56; c) C6-C6 cycloalkylene groups; d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C1-C40 alkyl groups; <Desc / Clms Page number 97>  wherein R1, R2, R3, R4, T and m are as defined above.

 e) C 1 -C 20 alkylene groups having 1 to 5 amide groups; f) C 1 -C 20 alkylene groups having one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkane and C 1 -C 8 hydroxyalkyl groups. C3 and C1-C6 alkylamines, and g) the polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:  14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the structuring polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to formula (II):

 in which : <Desc / Clms Page number 98>  R1 and R3, which are identical or different, are as defined above for the formula (I) in claim 12, R7 represents a group as defined above for R1 and R3, or represents the group of formula -XG- Wherein X and G are as defined above for formula (I) in claim 12, and R9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, optionally in its chain one or more atoms selected from O, S and N, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms and / or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups; - R8 represents the group of formula -XG-R9 in which X, G and R9 are as defined above, - ml is an integer ranging from 1 to 998, and - m2 is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.  15. The composition of claim 12, wherein the polymer comprises at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):

<Desc / Clms Page number 99>  wherein R1, R2, R3, R4, X, Y, m and n are as defined in claim 12.

 16. Composition according to any one of claims 12 to 15, wherein X and / or Y represent an alkylene group containing in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements: 1) 1 to 5 amide, urea or carbamate groups, 2) a C5 or C6 cycloalkyl group, and 3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C1 to C3 alkyl groups, and / or substituted by at least one element selected from the group consisting of: - a hydroxy group, - a C3 to C8 cycloalkyl group one to three C 1 to C 40 alkyl groups, a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups, a C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl group, and a C 1 to C 6 aminoalkyl group.  17. Composition according to any one of claims 12 to 15, wherein Y represents: <Desc / Clms Page number 100>  wherein a, b and c are independently integers from 1 to 10, and R10 is a hydrogen atom or a group as defined for R1, R2, R3 and R4 in claim 12.

 where R5 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group of formula:

 18. Composition according to any one of claims 12 to 15, wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent, independently, a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 group. or isopropyl, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.  19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the structuring polymer comprises at least one unit of formula: <Desc / Clms Page number 101>  wherein X1 and X2 which are the same or different, have the meaning given for X in claim 12, n, Y and T are as defined in claim 12, R11 to R18 are groups selected from the same group as R1 at R4 of claim 12, ml and m2 are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 500.

 The composition of claim 19, wherein: p is in the range of 1 to 25, more preferably 1 to 7, - R 11 to R 18 are methyl, - T is one of the following formulas: <Desc / Clms Page number 102>  especially with R20, R21 and R22 representing -CH2-CH2-, -m1 and m2 are in the range of 15 to 500, and more preferably 15 to 45, - X1 and X2 are-(CH2) 10-, and - Y represents -CH2-.

 in which R19 is a hydrogen atom or a group selected from the groups defined for R1 to R4, and R20, R21 and R22 are independently linear or branched alkylene groups, more preferably, the formula:

 21. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the polymer <Desc / Clms Page number 103> Y represents a polyurethane or polyurea sequence corresponding to the condensation of several molecules of diisocyanate with one or more molecules of couplers of the diol or diamine type, corresponding to the formula: Y represents a C 5 to C 12 cycloaliphatic or aromatic group which may be substituted by a C 1 to C 15 alkyl group or a C 5 to C 10 aryl group, for example a radical chosen from the methylene-4-4-biscyclohexyl radical, the radical derived from isophorone diisocyanate, 2,4 and 2,6-tolylenes, 1,5-naphthylene, p-phenylene and 4,4'-biphenylene methane, or Y represents a C1 to C40 alkylene radical, linear or branched, or a C4-C12 cycloalkylene radical, or  wherein r1, R2, R3, R4, X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for formula (I) in claim 12 and U represents -O- or -NH-, or

 structuring element comprises at least one pattern corresponding to the following formula: <Desc / Clms Page number 104>  wherein T is a trivalent hydrocarbon radical which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen and R5 is a polyorganosiloxane chain or a linear or branched C1-C50 alkyl chain.

 wherein B1 is a group selected from the groups given above for Y, U is -O- or -NH-, and B2 is selected from: # C1-C40 alkylene groups, linear or branched, # cycloalkylene groups from C to C12, optionally bearing alkyl substituents, for example one to three methyl or ethyl groups, or alkylene, for example the radical of diol: cyclohexane dimethanol, # the phenylene groups possibly carrying C1 to C3 alkyl substituents; , and # groups of formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 105>  22. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein the structuring polymer comprises at least one unit of formula:

 wherein R1, R2, R3, m1 and m2 have the meanings given for the formula (I) in claim 12 - U represents 0 or NH, - R23 represents a C1-C40 alkylene group optionally having one or more selected heteroatoms from 0 and N, or a phenylene group, and - R24 is selected from linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 10 alkyl groups, and phenyl groups optionally substituted by one to three C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups. .  23. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein the polymer used in the structuring system comprises at least one unit of formula: <Desc / Clms Page number 106>  wherein X1 and X2 which are the same or different, have the meaning given for X in claim 12 n, Y and T are as defined in claim 12, R11 to R18 are groups selected from the same group as R1 to R4 of claim 12, m1 and m2 are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 500.

 24. Composition according to any one of claims 12 to 23 wherein the polymer used in the structuring system further comprises a hydrocarbon unit having two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof.  25. The composition of claim 24 wherein the copolymer is a block copolymer, a block copolymer or a graft copolymer. <Desc / Clms Page number 107>  26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polymer represents from 0.5 to 80% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 60% and better still from 5 to 40% of the total weight of the composition. composition.  27. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the liquid fatty phase additionally contains a non-silicone oil.  28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the liquid fatty phase represents from 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 20 to 75% of the total weight of the composition.  29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound (s) capable of lowering the melting enthalpy is (are) present in an amount sufficient to cause a reduction in the enthalpy of fusion of the structuring polymer.  30. A composition according to claim 29, wherein the lowering of the melting enthalpy is at least 3 J / g of pure polymer, preferably at least 4 J / g of pure polymer, more preferably 5 to 10 J / g.  31. Composition according to any one of claims 29 to 30, wherein the said compound (s) capable (s) to lower the enthalpy of fusion (AH) of the structuring polymer and (are) likely (s) lowering, furthermore, the melting temperature of the structuring polymer. <Desc / Clms Page number 108>  32. The composition of claim 31, wherein the compound (s) are present in an amount sufficient to cause a lowering of the melting temperature of the structuring polymer.  33. The composition of claim 32, wherein the lowering of the melting temperature of the structuring polymer is at least 3 C, preferably at least 4 C, more preferably 5 to 20 C.  34. Composition according to any one of claims 29 to 33, wherein the compound (s) capable (s) to lower the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer are compounds leading to a composition macroscopically homogeneous and / or which are soluble or dispersible in the fatty phase of the composition.  35. Composition according to any one of claims 29 to 34, wherein the one or more compounds which lower the heat of fusion of the structuring polymer, further lower the melting temperature of the structuring polymer, and lead to a composition macroscopically. homogeneous.  36. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound (s) capable of causing a lowering of the heat of fusion and optionally of the melting temperature of the structuring polymer is (are) chosen. among the hydrocarbon and / or silicone compounds comprising at least one function comprising <Desc / Clms Page number 109>  at least one free electron doublet capable of interacting with the hydrogen bonds of the polymer.  37. Composition according to claim 36, wherein said hydrocarbon and / or silicone compounds comprise at least one functional group chosen from hydroxyl, carboxyl, amino, primary, secondary and tertiary amines, urea and urethane, ether and ester functions.  38. A composition according to claim 36 or claim 37, wherein the compound or compounds capable of causing a decrease in the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer are chosen from monoalcohols, polyols, such as diols, and triols, and polyol ethers.  39. The composition of claim 38, wherein the one or more compounds capable of causing a decrease in enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer are chosen from silicone diols.  40. A composition according to claim 38, wherein the compound (s) capable of causing a decrease in the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer is (are) chosen from the compounds of the oxyalkylenated polydi (alkyl) siloxane type, in which the alkyl groups of the siloxane have 1 to 4 carbon atoms and the alkylene group has 1 to 4 carbon atoms.  41. The composition of claim 38, wherein the alkyl groups of <Desc / Clms Page number 110>  polydi (alkyl) siloxane are methyl groups and the oxyalkylene groups are oxypropylene and / or oxyethylene groups and the compounds are PDMS oxypropylene and / or oxyethylene.  42. The composition of claim 38, wherein the compound (s) capable (s) to cause a decrease in enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature is (are) chosen from polyalkylene monoalkyl ethers (1-4 carbon atoms) glycols, for example monoalkyl ethers of polypropylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycol, such as the monomyristic ether of the glycol polymer of formula: H- [OCH (CH 3) CH 2] n O- (CH 2) 13 -CH 3 with n = 2 to 200.  43. A composition according to claim 38, wherein the compound (s) capable (s) to cause a decrease in enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer is (are) chosen (s) among monoalcohols linear or branched aliphatics having more than 8 carbon atoms.  44. The composition of claim 40, wherein the compound is octyldodecanol.  45. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 44 wherein the content of compound or compound (s) capable (s) to lower the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer (s) structuring (s) ( s) is usually <Desc / Clms Page number 111>  from 5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight.  46. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio silicone polymer / compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer is in the range from 0.1 to 50, preferably from 0.5 to 25, and more preferably from 1 to 15.  47. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent.  48. Composition according to claim 47, characterized in that the active ingredient is chosen from essential oils, vitamins, moisturizers, filters, healing agents and ceramides.  49. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additive chosen from solid particles chosen from pearlescent or non-pearlescent pigments and fillers, soluble dyes in the polyols or in the phase. fatty oils, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, liposoluble polymers, in particular hydrocarbon-based polymers such as polyalkylenes or vinyl polylaurate, gelling agents for the liquid fatty phase, gums, resins, surfactants such as trioleoleyl phosphate, the additional cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients selected for example from the group consisting of water, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, <Desc / Clms Page number 112>  liquid lanolin, essential fatty acids, lipophilic or polyol soluble sunscreens, lipid vesicles and mixtures thereof.  50. The composition of claim 49, wherein the particles are pigments selected from zinc oxides, iron oxides, titanium oxides and mixtures thereof.  51. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a dyestuff.  52. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a transparent gel, and in particular of transparent anhydrous stick.  53. A structured solid composition for making up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, containing at least one pigment in sufficient quantity to make up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments and a liquid continuous fat phase, structured by at least a polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of graft, and - at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof, <Desc / Clms Page number 113>  the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., said liquid fatty phase comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer, said composition optionally being in the form of a solid, and the pigment, the liquid fatty phase, the compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer, and the structuring polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium .  54. Composition according to claim 53, characterized in that it is self-supporting.  55. A structured composition of lipstick, containing at least one pigment in sufficient quantity to make up the lips and a liquid continuous liquid phase, structured by at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500 000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino groups and combinations thereof, <Desc / Clms Page number 114>  the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., said liquid fatty phase comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer, said composition in the form of a solid, and the pigment, the liquid fatty phase, the structuring polymer and the compound capable of lowering the temperature and the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.  56. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 55, characterized in that it is in the form of mascara bread, eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, blush, cleansing product , body make-up product, eyeshadow or cheek, anti-ring product.  57. Makeup stick for the skin, lips and / or integuments, and in particular the lips, containing at least one pigment in sufficient quantity to make up the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, and a continuous liquid fatty phase structured by at least one structuring polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of pattern or as a graft, and <Desc / Clms Page number 115>  at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 C, the liquid fatty phase comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting point of the structuring polymer, and the pigment, the fatty phase, the structuring polymer and the compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the structuring polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.  58. A cosmetic process for the care, make-up or treatment of keratinous substances of human beings, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims.  59. Use in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, containing a continuous liquid fatty phase, of a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular mass ranging from 500 500 000, comprising at least one pattern comprising: <Desc / Clms Page number 116>  at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and their combinations, the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase optionally being partially constituted or totally silicone oil (s) having a flash point equal to or greater than 40 C and comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting point of the polymer, and said composition being in the form of a self-supporting solid of hardness ranging from 20 to 2000 gf and preferably from 20 to 900 gf and preferably from 20 to 600 gf.  60. Use of a continuous liquid fatty phase structured essentially by a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least a polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and - at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from groups <Desc / Clms Page number 117>  ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid continuous liquid phase being optionally partially or totally constituted by volatile oil (s) having a flash point equal to or greater than 40 ° C. and comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and, optionally, the melting temperature. of the polymer, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, easy to apply and / or giving a large mass deposit.  61. Use of a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight of 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido and guanidino groups, biguanidino and their combinations, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 C, <Desc / Clms Page number 118>  in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, containing a continuous liquid fatty phase and at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting point of the polymer, for structuring said composition in the form of a a self-supporting solid.  62. Use of a continuous liquid fatty phase structured essentially by a sufficient quantity of at least one structuring polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in a chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate and thiocarbamate groups, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase optionally being partially or totally constituted of volatile oil (s) having a flash point equal to or greater than 40 C and comprising at least one susceptible compound e to lower the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically <Desc / Clms Page number 119>  acceptable as an agent to facilitate the application of said composition, and optionally increase its gloss and the brightness of a deposit of said composition.  63. Use of a continuous liquid fatty phase, essentially structured by a sufficient quantity of at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in a chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate and thiocarbamate groups, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at ambient temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C., the liquid fatty phase optionally being partially or totally constituted of volatile oil (s) and comprising at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the temperature of melting of the structuring polymer, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, as an agent for increasing the mass of a deposit of said composition.  The use according to any one of claims 59 to 63, wherein the composition has <Desc / Clms Page number 120>  a hardness of from 20 to 2,000 g, preferably from 20 to 900 g and more preferably from 20 to 600 g.  65. Cosmetic process for facilitating the application of a cosmetic composition containing a fatty phase, comprising structuring said fatty phase with a sufficient quantity of at least one structuring polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 at least 500 000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing selected hydrogen interactions from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 C, and to add at least one compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting point of the polymer the composition.  66. Cosmetic process for increasing the mass of a deposit of a cosmetic composition containing a liquid fatty phase, comprising structuring said fatty phase with a sufficient quantity of at least one structuring polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of average molecular mass. weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one pattern comprising: <Desc / Clms Page number 121>  at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide and carbamate groups, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C, and adding at least one compound capable of to reduce the enthalpy and optionally the melting temperature of the polymer to said composition.  67. Use in a cosmetic composition or a physiologically acceptable composition comprising a continuous liquid fatty phase structured with at least one polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 500,000, comprising at least one unit comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the unit or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulphonamide, carbamate and thiocarbamate groups; urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof, <Desc / Clms Page number 122>  the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at a temperature of 25 to 250 ° C, a sufficient amount of a compound capable of lowering the enthalpy and optionally the melting point of the polymer to facilitate applying said composition and increasing the mass of a deposit of said composition.