CN102512340A - Nursing and / or make-up cosmetic composition structured with silicone polymer - Google Patents

Nursing and / or make-up cosmetic composition structured with silicone polymer Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102512340A
CN102512340A CN2011104429099A CN201110442909A CN102512340A CN 102512340 A CN102512340 A CN 102512340A CN 2011104429099 A CN2011104429099 A CN 2011104429099A CN 201110442909 A CN201110442909 A CN 201110442909A CN 102512340 A CN102512340 A CN 102512340A
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compositions
polymer
structuring
structuring polymer
reduce
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F·托尔尼尔哈克
X·布林
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06Lipsticks

Abstract

The invention refers to a nursing and / or make-up cosmetic composition structured with a silicone polymer, comprising a liquid continuous fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer having a weight average molecular weight of 500-500000 containing at least one moiety comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1-1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions consisting of ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and/or biguanidino groups. The polymer is solid at room temperature and soluble in the liquid fatty phase at 25-250 degrees C. The liquid fatty phase comprises at least one compound capable of reducing the enthalpy of fusion of the structuring polymer. The composition contains at least one pigment. The liquid fatty phase, the structuring polymer and the compound capable of reducing the enthalpy of fusion of the structuring polymer form a medium.

Description

Nursing and/or make-up cosmetic composition with structured with silicone polymers
The application be the PCT international filing date be December in 2003 8 days, get into day in China national stage be on August 17th, 2005, be entitled as " with the nursing and/or the make-up cosmetic composition of structured with silicone polymers ", the one Chinese patent application application number is dividing an application of 200380109797.9 patent application.
Technical field
The present invention relates to people's skin, comprise hair, and/or the nursing of lip and/or make-up cosmetic composition; It contains the liquid aliphatic phase that comprises at least a oil, uses the particular polymers structuring, and especially the form with the casting cosmetics provides; Especially as strip or dome-shaped cosmetics, such as lip pomade, it is used is easy; Obtained a large amount of, especially painted, glossy and nonmigratory deposit.
The nursing cosmetic composition is to comprise for example being used to handle wrinkle; Be used for skin and lip humidification; Be used to protect skin, lip pomade and body surface growth-gen to avoid ultraviolet radiation, the compositions that is used to handle acne and/or is used as at least a reactive compound of self-tanning agent.
The present invention relate more specifically to have used, formed a large amount of depositions easily and showed reserve capability and do not shift and the cosmetics of stable performance and dermatological composition such as cosmetics.
Background technology
In cosmetics, there is structuring usually, i.e. gel and/or hardened (rigified), liquid aliphatic phase.Especially at face cream and the lip pomade of solid composite such as casting, eye shadow cream is covered up under the situation about applying some make up with foundation cream, and compositions is cured.Realized this structuring with wax or filler.Regrettably, these waxes and filler often make compositions unglazed, and this is always not desirable, especially for lip pomade or eye shadow cream.
For the application, the statement liquid aliphatic is considered to mutually be meant that be the mutually fatty of liquid in room temperature (25 ℃) down with atmospheric pressure (760mmHg), and it is by at room temperature forming for liquid and one or more fatty materials (also being called oil) compatible with each other.
Statement structuring liquid phase is considered to be meant sclerosis or gel liquid aliphatic phase.
For the application, statement hardening bath body fat is considered to mutually be meant that when interpolation silicone polyamide this sclerosis do not move under himself weight.
For the application, statement gel liquid phase be considered to be meant since with the silicone polyamide join this fat mutually in, the viscosity increased of this phase.
The structuring of liquid aliphatic phase makes that especially can limit it oozes out from solid composite, this external being deposited on after skin or the lip is limited this and moved to mutually in wrinkle and the fine rule, and especially lip pomade or eye shadow cream are looked for for these.The statement migration is considered to be meant that the compositions that is deposited on skin or the lip overflows to the outside of its initial profile.
Gloss mainly interrelates with liquid aliphatic character mutually.Therefore, can reduce wax and the amount of filler in the compositions, so that improve the gloss of lip pomade, but the migration of liquid aliphatic phase increases at that rate.In other words, form being fit to the required wax of the bar of hardness and the amount of filler is sedimental glossy obstacle.
File EP-A-1 068 856 [1] has described the not content of wax, but contains the Solic cosmetic composition of the liquid aliphatic phase of useful polymer architectureization, and wherein fat mainly is non-silicone oil mutually.
File WO-A-01/97758 [2] has described the cosmetic composition based on polyamide, comprises the ester that is selected from the N-acylamino acid and the structural agent in amide and their mixture.Said composition also comprises the solvent of polyamide, and the latter can be selected from unsaturated and saturated fatty alcohol, fat and/or aromatic carboxylic acid's ester, the pure and mild acid of ethoxylation and/or propoxylation, silicone, mineral oil and side chain hydro carbons; Preferred fat acid esters, aliphatic alcohol, mineral oil, branching hydro carbons and their mixture.
When silicone oil hazing or when non-volatile only; Use based on the fatty phase of silicone oil can obtain to have long reserve capability at present, that is, especially the long-term good reserve capability of color (does not change; Colour-fast) cosmetic composition; And when the volatilization of these silicone oil, obtained no metastatic composition, do not form deposit on such as eyes, teacup, fabric or medicated cigarette at the carrier that contacts with the thin film of cosmetics.
At present, the use of silicone oil in cosmetics receive can these media of gel with therefore the restriction such as the small number of molecules of lip pomade or casting foundation cream of the compositions that exists with solid form is provided.The use of the cosmetic composition of the mutually most of siliconizations of its fat has in most of the cases caused the problem with the compatibility of the composition that usually in cosmetics, uses.
At file US-A-5 874 069 [3]; US-A-5 919 441 [4], and US-A-6 051216 [5], WO-A-02/17870 [6]; And WO-A-02/17871 [7]; Among WO-A-99/06473 [12] and the US-A-6-6 353 076 [13], prepared cosmetic composition, comprised with polysiloxanes and polyamide based wax or with containing siloxy group group and can setting up the silicone oil phase of the polymer gel of the interactional group of hydrogen such as deodorization bar or gel.
In WO-A-02/17870 [6], imagination joins another structural agent in the compositions, but the amount of adding be low, for example under the situation of hydroxy stearic acid, is lower than 0.5%, so that keep transparency of products.
In WO-A-02/17871 [7], also imagine with silicone polymer, use second structural agent with the amount of the 0.5-2wt% that accounts for compositions, and comprise non-silicone organic compound, the dicyandiamide solution of volatile silicone and optional another silicone.
File EP-A-1 177 784 [8] is for example clear to comprise the deodorant compsns that contains the volatile silicone for example and the liquid phase of optional non-volatile silicone and/or non-silicone hydrophobic organic liquids; It is with having amino organic compound, optional a spot of one or more polymerizations or non-polymerization supplementary structure agent structuring.In the supplementary structure agent, this document has been mentioned the polymer that has siloxane group and shown the interactional group of hydrogen, does not provide the instance or the result of the compositions of using these polymer.
Do not have to show the mechanical resistance to shearing fully through the bar that is only obtained, especially when bar is applied to lip and/or skin, cause the fracture of bar with one or more gel structured with silicone polymers liquid aliphatic phases.
Can find out from above description; Polymer is such as the feasible solid beauty treatment system that can obtain need not use wax of the preparation of silicone polyamide (PASi) in compatibility fat medium; Especially highly; And even the structuring of siliconization system fully, this normally is difficult to obtain with wax quasi-tradition structural agent.
Yet what can prove is that the using of preparation that obtains like this possibly be difficult, and do not obtain deposit with enough amounts that beauty treatment is provided.
It all is not satisfied using and depositing, and is high because obtain the concentration of the solid system of abundant hardness.
Summary of the invention
Say that exactly the purpose of this invention is to provide the nursing or the cosmetic composition of skin and/or lip, it can overcome the deficiency and address the above problem.Especially, the purpose of this invention is to provide and use easily and form a large amount of depositions, that is to say, under any circumstance greater than the compositions of the big quantity of material of prior art compositions.A large amount of depositions of material have obtained stronger " cosmetic result ", and especially under the situation of the compositions of pigment coloring, the deposit with stronger color can be used for making up the lip of for example improving looks.
Surprisingly; The applicant has been found that; Particular polymers and the fusion enthalpy that can reduce these polymer and one or more components that possibly also have melt temperature be used in combination can be under the situation that does not have or exist a small amount of wax structuring beauty treatment or care product form based on the liquid aliphatic of for example silicone oil mutually; Using of it is easy, especially between administration time period, have excellent smooth property, and this use caused a large amount of depositions; That is to say, under any circumstance greater than the big quantity of material of prior art compositions.A large amount of depositions of compositions have obtained stronger " cosmetic result "; Especially under the situation of the compositions of pigment coloring; Deposit with stronger color can provide the for example beauty treatment of lip, that is, and and maybe be not or even complete not satisfied beauty treatment with prior art compositions.
It is to be noted in addition, astonishing equally, comprise above-mentioned conjugate compositions display of the present invention product and the improvement gloss with regard to the deposit, the words of this performance if desired before just using.In addition, comprise that the compositions according to the present invention of above-mentioned conjugate provides non-migrating thin film or deposit, it has enhanced reserve capability, the performance of not gluing in the time of possibly also having non-transfer and touch.
These specific compounds can reduce their the fusion enthalpy Δ H and the gel that combines can obtain to have good mechanical strength and acceptable rheological characteristic of the chemical compound of optional their melt temperature m.p. of reduction with one or more; Especially solid gel; So that a large amount of depositions that are enough to improve looks are provided, it has improved gloss in addition.
Comprise beauty treatment or the not description in the prior art of nursing cosmetic composition according to particular polymers of the present invention and the conjugate that belongs to fusion enthalpy Δ H that can reduce this polymer and the specific compound of choosing the chemical compound that also has melt temperature m.p. wantonly.
The effect of utilizing particular polymers and the fusion enthalpy that can reduce this polymer and optional this conjugate that reduces the specific compound of its fusing point to obtain; Especially be prone to the property used; Deposition, and the wonderful improvement of sedimental gloss and product does not occur in the prior art file.
The present invention is not only applicable to the cosmetics of lip, such as lip pomade, and liner and bright lip pomade, and be applicable to the care product of skin (comprising scalp) and lip; Such as the sunscreen product of the bar form that is used for skin, face or lip, or the lip face cream, the cosmetics of facial and people's body skin are such as as bar or the casting foundation cream in coiling; Cover up and apply some make up and the product of temporarily tatooing, cleaning products, especially bar form, and the cosmetics that are used for eyes; Such as eyeliner, especially form of a stroke or a combination of strokes formula, and mascara; Especially the muffin of cutin fiber (eyelashes, eyebrow, hair).
More precisely, theme of the present invention is a make-up cosmetic composition, and it comprises:
With at least a continuous fatty phase of the structurized liquid of structuring polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with weight average molecular weight of 500-500000, said polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-at least two, be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxamides, guanidine and biguanide base and their conjugate,
-this polymer at room temperature be solid with solvable in mutually under 25-250 ℃ the temperature at liquid aliphatic,
Said liquid aliphatic comprises at least a chemical compound that can reduce the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer mutually,
Said compositions contain at least a pigment and
The liquid aliphatic phase, structuring polymer with can reduce structuring polymer fusion enthalpy compound formation the physiology acceptable medium.
According to the present invention, statement " structuring polymer " is generally considered to be that finger can hydrogen bond hardens or the polymer of gel compositions through forming.
Compositions of the present invention can paste, the form of solid or the frost that is clamminess in various degree provides.It can be simple or multiple, especially oil-in-water or Water-In-Oil, the emulsion of W/O/W or Water-In-Oil bag oil, or hard or soft gel with oily continuous phase.Simple or multiple emulsion can comprise the optional aqueous or the oily continuous phase of disperseing lipid vesicle that contains.Especially, it is the form of bar with the casting or in dish, provides that more specifically particularly anhydrous with oily, regid gel provides with the form that is more especially anhydrous bar.More particularly, it provides with the form of translucent or opaque regid gel (whether containing pigment or other material according to it), and liquid aliphatic has formed continuous phase mutually.Anhydrous composition comprises the water that is lower than 10wt%, for example is lower than 5wt%, preferably is lower than the water of 2wt%.
The structuring of liquid aliphatic phase can be regulated according to the character that the form of structuring polymer and used can reduce the chemical compound of enthalpy and possible melt temperature, and can make hard structure obtain with the form with good mechanical strength and rod, bar or dome with glossy appearance.Especially when they when painted, after using like a cork, these rods should obtain glossiness deposit, and are especially painted, in a large number, do not move and have good reserve capability, especially a deposit of long term color reserve capability.Said composition can comprise that one or more structuring polymers and one or more reduce the fusion enthalpy and the optional chemical compound that also has melt temperature of these polymer.
Advantageously, compositions of the present invention be lip with compositions with in addition preferably lip composition, the especially lip composition of bar form.
The liquid aliphatic phase
Comprise at least a oil mutually according to liquid aliphatic of the present invention, be selected from hydrocarbon ils usually, silicone oil and fluorinated oil.
Oil is and the immiscible non-aqueous chemical compound of water.
Liquid aliphatic can comprise at least a ethereal oil mutually.
For the present invention, ethereal oil advantageously has preferred 35-135 ℃ flash-point (measuring according to this method) or does not have flash-point.Flash-point is the steam that when contacting with flame, spark or thermal source, distributed by the fuel temperature when catching fire.
Ethereal oil advantageously has 0.01-300mmHg (1.33Pa-40000Pa) and is more preferably the vapour pressure of 0.05-190mmHg (6.65Pa-25330Pa) under room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760mmHg).
According to the present invention; This ethereal oil can be selected from have be equal to or higher than 40 ℃ and advantageously be higher than the gel system softening point flash-point and/or be lower than linearity, branching or the ring-type silicone oil of the viscosity of 8cSt, such as the linearity with 3-7 silicon atom, branching or annular dimethyl polysiloxane (PDMS).
As the example of ethereal oil, can mention the chemical compound that in following table 1, provides.
Said composition can contain non-volatile silicone oil.
Silicone oil of the present invention has and advantageously is selected from 5-800000cSt, and preferred 10-500000cSt is more preferably the viscosity (25 ℃) in the 10-5000cSt scope.
Non-volatile silicone oil can be a polydimethylsiloxane; Gather the alkyl methyl siloxanes; Dimethicone copolyol, alkyl polymethyl siloxane (alkylmethicone) copolyol, cetyl polydimethylsiloxane; Polysiloxanes with alkyl glycerol base ether has the polysiloxanes and the two Laurel acyl group trimethylolpropane siloxysilicate materials of amine side group.These oily alkyl especially have 2-24 carbon atom.
The non-volatile silicone oil that can use in the present invention especially can be at room temperature to be the linearity of liquid, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS); Contain that side is hung and/or at the polydimethylsiloxane of terminal alkyl, alkoxyl or phenyl of silicone chains, these groups contain 2-24 carbon atom separately; The phenylating polysiloxanes, for example phenyl gathers trimethicone, the phenyl polydimethylsiloxane; Phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxane; The diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenethyl trimethylsiloxy esters of silicon acis have the side extension of one or more 1-12 carbon atom or are positioned at terminated group; Its all or some hydrogen atoms by the substituted polysiloxanes of fluoridizing of fluorine atom, dimethiconol and their mixture.
Table 1
Figure BSA00000645511400071
In other words, volatile silicone oils can for example be selected from the chemical compound of table 1, seven Methyl Octyl trisiloxanes, ten dimethyl, five siloxanes and their mixture.
Volatile silicone oils can also be selected from fluorinated silicone oil such as the polysiloxanes with alkyl and perfluoroalkyl; Have ethylene oxide/propylene oxide (EO/PP) side group and polysiloxanes with fully-fluorinated group; Have perfluorinate side group and polysiloxanes with glycerol side group; The perfluoroalkyl methyl phenyl siloxane, these oil have the vapour pressure that is greater than or equal to 0.02mmHg.
The non-silicone oil of volatility can be selected from hydrocarbon ils and volatility ester and ether such as volatile hydrocarbon for example Fancol ID and 2-Methylpentadecane, C 8-C 16Isoparaffin, neopentanoic acid isohesyl ester or neopentanoic acid isodecyl ester.
Ethereal oil can also be selected from the fluorinated oil class such as PFPE, and the perfluoroalkane hydrocarbon is such as perfluorodecalin (perfluorodecaline), perfluor diamantane (obsolete), the esters of perfluoralkyl phosphate (monoesters, diester and three esters) and fluoridize ester oil.
As the example of the non-silicone oil of volatility that can use in the present invention, can mention the chemical compound of following table 2.
Table 2
Figure BSA00000645511400081
Liquid aliphatic advantageously contains at least 30% mutually, is more preferably the silicone oil of 40wt% at least, advantageously has to be lower than 1000cSt and to be more preferably the viscosity that is lower than 100cSt, because used in the present invention silicone polymer dissolubility in silicone oil with low viscosity is high.It can also contain the mixture of other non-silicone oil or non-silicone oil.
When this fat comprised ethereal oil mutually, it advantageously accounted for the 3-89.4wt% of the gross weight of compositions, is more preferably 5-60wt%, for example 5-10wt%.
Liquid aliphatic can also contain other non-silicone oil mutually, for example polar oil such as:
-hydro carbons vegetable oil has the high-load triglyceride of being made up of the ester of fatty acid and glycerol, and wherein fatty acid can have different chain length, and the latter can be linearity or branching, and is saturated or undersaturated; These oil are wheat germ oil especially, Semen Maydis oil, Oleum helianthi, shea oil, Oleum Ricini, Prunus dulcis oil, macadamia oil; Almond oil, soybean oil, Oleum Brassicae campestris, Oleum Gossypii semen, Herba Medicaginis oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil; Oleum sesami, calaba oil, American Avocado Tree oil, hazelnut oil, Semen Vitis viniferae oil or Ribes nigrum L. seed oil, Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae oil, millet oil; Big wheat oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye-seed oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or muskrat oil; The perhaps triglyceride of caprylic/capric, for example, those that sell by Stearineries Dubois company or sell with the title of Miglyol 810,812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel those;
-general formula R aCOOR bArtificial oil or ester, R wherein aExpression contains 1-40, is more preferably the linearity of 7-19 carbon atom or the residue and the R of branching higher fatty acids bExpression contains 1-40 and the branching hydrocarbon chain that is more preferably 3-20 carbon atom, wherein R a+ R b>=10, Purcellin oil (sad ketone group stearyl ester (ketostearyl octanoate)) for example, the different nonyl ester of different n-nonanoic acid, benzoic acid C 12-C 15Alcohol ester, isopropyl myristate, Palmic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, the caprylate of alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, decanoin or ricinoleate ester; The hydroxylating ester is such as the different stearyl ester of lactic acid, malic acid two iso stearyl esters; Ester with tetramethylolmethane;
-have the synthetic ether of 10-40 carbon atom;
-fatty acid is such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; With
-their mixture.
Liquid aliphatic can also contain non-polar oil mutually such as linearity or branching hydro carbons or fluorohydrocarbon class synthetic or the mineral source; They are volatile or nonvolatile, such as the ethereal oil (such as isoparaffin, Fancol ID) of alkane or the nonvolatile oil and the derivant thereof of alkane; Vaseline; Poly decene, Parleam be such as Parleam, squalane and their mixture.
Therefore, the present invention can for example carry out with following different fat mutually:
1) by the mixture of the oil that comprises at least a non-volatile silicone oil and at least a volatile silicone oils form mutually fatty;
2) mutually fatty by the mixture that comprises at least a non-volatile silicone oil and the oil of at least a non-silicone ethereal oil;
3) comprise at least a non-volatile silicone oil, it is mutually fatty that the mixture of at least a volatile silicone oils and the oil of the non-silicone oil of at least a volatility is formed;
4) by comprising at least a volatile silicone oils, it is mutually fatty that the oil mixture of a kind of non-volatile non-silicone oil and the non-silicone oil of choosing wantonly of at least a volatility is formed; With
5) the fatty phase of only forming by volatile silicone oils.
In situation 1), 2) and 3), this mixture can also comprise non-volatile non-silicone oil.Certainly, will be appreciated that in all cases, and that according to the present invention this fat comprises the melt temperature that can reduce structuring polymer and the chemical compound of fusion enthalpy mutually.
Generally, liquid aliphatic accounts for the 5-99% of the gross weight of compositions mutually, is more preferably 20-75%.
The structuring silicone polymer
The structuring polymer of said composition is a solid under room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760mmHg), and under 25-250 ℃ temperature, dissolves in the liquid aliphatic phase.
For the present invention, the statement polymer is considered to be meant to have at least 2 repetitive structure parts, preferred at least 3 repetitive structures part and the chemical compound that is more preferably 10 repetitive structure parts.
In compositions of the present invention, the structuring silicone polymer generally accounts for the 0.5-80% of the gross weight of compositions, preferred 2-60% be more preferably 5-40%.
And, the polymer/oil of structuring polymer, for example silicone oil compares preferably 0.1-50% with other oil quality.
At the special-purpose polymer of the compositions of the present invention polymer that is poly organo siloxane as structural agent such as in file US-A-5 874 069 [3], US-A-5,919; 441 [4], US-A-6,051; 216 [5] and US-A-5, those described in 981,680 [11].
According to the present invention, the polymer that is used as structural agent can belong to following two families:
1) comprise at least two polysiloxane that can set up the interactional group of hydrogen, these two groups are arranged in polymer chain; And/or
2) comprise at least two polysiloxane that can set up the interactional group of hydrogen, these two groups are positioned in grafting or the branch.
Comprise that in polymer chain two polymer that can set up the interactional group of hydrogen can be the polymer that comprises corresponding at least one structure division of following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400101
Wherein:
1) R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Can be identical or different, expression be selected from the group among following:
-linearity, branching or the saturated or unsaturated C of ring-type 1-C 40The hydro carbons group possibly contain one or more oxygen in its chain, sulfur and/or nitrogen-atoms, and possibly partly or entirely replaced by fluorine atom,
-C 6-C 10Aryl, optional by one or more C 1-C 4Alkyl replaces,
-possibly contain the polysiloxane chain of one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen-atoms;
2) radicals X can be identical or different, expression linearity or branching C 1-C 30Alkylidene two bases (alkylenediyl) possibly contain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen-atoms in its chain;
3) Y is saturated or undersaturated C 1-C 50Linearity or branching divalent alkyl, arlydene, cycloalkylidene, alkarylene or inferior aralkyl possibly comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen-atoms, and/or carry one of following atom or atomic radical as substituent group: fluorine, hydroxyl, C 3-C 8Cycloalkyl, C 1-C 40Alkyl, C 5-C 10Aryl, optional by 1-3 C 1-C 3Alkyl, C 1-C 3Hydroxyalkyl and C 1-C 6The substituted phenyl of aminoalkyl, or
4) Y representes the group corresponding to following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400111
Wherein:
-T representes linearity or branching, saturated or unsaturated C 3-C 24Trivalent or tetravalence hydro carbons group, optional by the replacement of polysiloxane chain, and possibly contain the one or more atoms that are selected among O, N and the S, perhaps T representes to be selected from the triad among N, P and the Al, and
-R 5Expression linearity or branching C 1-C 50Alkyl or polysiloxane chain possibly comprise one or more esters, amide, urea alkane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfuryl amine group, and it can be connected in another chain of polymer;
5) group G can be identical or different, and expression is selected from the divalent group among following:
Figure BSA00000645511400121
Figure BSA00000645511400131
R wherein 6Expression hydrogen atom or linearity or branching C 1-C 20Alkyl, condition are the radicals R of polymer 6At least two of group G of at least 50% expression hydrogen atom and polymer be not following group:
Figure BSA00000645511400132
6) n is 2-500 and the integer of preferred 2-200, and m is 1-1000, preferred 1-700 and the integer of 6-200 preferably.
According to the present invention, the radicals R of polymer 1, R 2, R 3And R 480% preferentially be selected from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoro propyl.
According to the present invention, Y can represent various divalent groups, chooses wantonly in addition to comprise that other structural portion with polymer or copolymer is divided into one or two free quantivalence of key.Preferably, Y representes to be selected from the group among following:
A) linear C 1-C 20With preferred C 1-C 10Alkylidene,
B) C 30-C 56Sub-branched alkyl can comprise ring and non-conjugated unsaturated bond,
C) C 5-C 6Cycloalkylidene,
D) optional by one or more C 1-C 40The substituted phenylene of alkyl,
E) comprise the C of 1-5 amide group 1-C 20Alkylidene,
F) C 1-C 20Alkylidene comprises being selected from hydroxyl, C 3-C 8Cycloalkane, C 1-C 3Hydroxyalkyl and C 1-C 6One or more substituent groups in the alkyl amine group,
G) the polysiloxane chain of following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400141
R wherein 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, T and m such as above definition and
H) the polysiloxane chain of following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400142
The polysiloxane of second family can be the polymer that comprises corresponding at least one structure division of general formula (II):
Figure BSA00000645511400143
Wherein:
-R 1And R 3Can be identical or different, such as above for general formula (I) definition,
-R 7Expression as above for R 1And R 3The group of definition, or expression general formula-X-G-R 9Group, wherein X and G such as above for general formula (I) definition and R 9Expression hydrogen atom or linearity or branching or the saturated or unsaturated C of ring-type 1-C 50The hydro carbons group is chosen wantonly and in its chain, is comprised the one or more atoms that are selected among O, S and the N, optionally replaced by one or more fluorine atoms and/or one or more hydroxyl, or optional by one or more C 1-C 4The substituted phenyl of alkyl,
-R 8Expression general formula-X-G-R 9Group, wherein X, G and R 9Like above definition,
-m 1Be 1-998 integer and
-m 2It is the integer of 2-500.
According to the present invention, the polymer that is used as gelatinizing agent can be a homopolymer, that is to say, comprises the polymer of several same structures parts, especially the structure division of general formula (I) or general formula (II).
According to the present invention, can also use the polymer of forming by the copolymer of the structure division that comprises several different general formulas (I), that is to say radicals R in one of these structure divisions 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, X, G, Y, m and n at least one different polymer.This copolymer can also be formed by the structure division of several general formulas (II), wherein at least one of these structure divisions, and radicals R 1, R 3, R 7, R 8, m 1And m 2At least one difference.
Can also use the copolymer of at least one structure division of at least one structure division that comprises general formula (I) and general formula (II), the structure division of the structure division of general formula (I) and general formula (II) can be same to each other or different to each other.
According to a modification of the present invention, can also use to comprise that in addition at least one contains the copolymer of the hydrocarbon structure part that can set up interactional two groups of hydrogen, said group is selected from ester, amide; Sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate; Urea, urea alkane, thiourea; Oxamides, guanidine and biguanide group, and their conjugate.
These copolymers can be block copolymer or graft copolymer.
According to the first embodiment of the present invention, can to set up the interactional group of hydrogen be general formula-C (O) NH-with-HN-C (O)-amide group.
In this case, gelatinizing agent can be the polymer that comprises at least one general formula (III) or structure division (IV):
Figure BSA00000645511400151
Figure BSA00000645511400161
R wherein 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, X, Y, m and n be like above definition.
This structure division can obtain through following manner:
-through containing α, silicone that ω-carboxylic acid is terminal and the condensation reaction between one or more diamidogen according to following reaction scheme:
Figure BSA00000645511400162
-or through the reaction according to following reaction scheme of bimolecular α-unsaturated carboxylic acid and diamidogen:
CH 2=CH-X 1-COOH+H 2N-Y-NH 2
CH 2=CH-X 1-CO-NH-Y-NH-CO-X 1-CH=CH 2
According to following route siloxanes is added on the ethylenic unsaturated bond subsequently:
Figure BSA00000645511400171
X wherein 1-(CH 2) 2-corresponding to the X of above definition, and Y, R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4With m like above definition.
-or through containing α, ω-NH 2Terminal silicone and the diacid of general formula HOOC-Y-COOH are according to the reaction of following reaction scheme:
Figure BSA00000645511400172
In general formula (III) or these polyamide (IV), m is 1-700 preferably, more preferably 15-500, and preferably 10-100, and n is 1-500 especially, preferred 1-100, preferably 4-25.
X preferably contain 1-30 carbon atom and especially 1-20 carbon atom linearity or sub-branched alkyl chain and
-Y preferably linearity or branching maybe possibly comprise ring and/or unsaturated bond, contains 1-40 carbon atom, especially 1-20 carbon atom and preferably 2-6 carbon atom, the especially alkylidene chain of 6 carbon atoms.
At general formula (III) with (IV), the alkylidene of expression X or Y can be chosen at least one that on its alkylene moiety, contains the structure part wantonly:
1) 1-5 amide, urea, urea alkane or carbamate groups,
2) C 5Or C 6Cycloalkyl and
3) optional by 1-3 identical or different C 1-C 3The substituted phenylene of alkyl.
At general formula (III) with (IV), at least one structure division that alkylidene can also be selected among following replaces:
-hydroxyl,
-C 3-C 8Cycloalkyl,
-1-3 C 1-C 40Alkyl,
-optional by 1-3 C 1-C 3The substituted phenyl of alkyl,
-C 1-C 3Hydroxyalkyl and
-C 1-C 6Aminoalkyl.
At these general formulas (III) with (IV), Y can also represent:
Figure BSA00000645511400181
R wherein 5Expression polysiloxane chain and T represent the group of following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400182
Wherein a, b and c are the integer of 1-10 independently, and R 10Be hydrogen atom or such as above for R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4The group of those of definition and so on.
At general formula (III) with (IV), R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Preferably represent linearity or branching C independently 1-C 40Alkyl, preferred CH 3, C 2H 5, n-C 3H 7Or isopropyl, polysiloxane chain or optional by 1-3 methyl or the substituted phenyl of ethyl.
As the front was seen, this polymer can comprise general formula (III) or identical or different structure division (IV).
Therefore, this polymer can be the general formula (III) that contains several different lengths or the polyamide of structure division (IV), promptly corresponding to the polyamide of following formula:
Wherein X, Y, n and R 1-R 4Has the above implication that provides, m 1And m 2Be different, in the scope of 1-1000, select, and p is the integer of 2-300.
In this formula, these structure divisions can structuring, forms block copolymer, or random copolymer or alternate copolymer.In this copolymer, these structure divisions not only can have different length, and can have chemical structures, for example contain different group Y.In this case, this copolymer can be corresponding to following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400192
R wherein 1-R 4, X, Y, m 1, m 2, n and p have the above implication that provides, Y 1Different with Y, but be selected from group for the Y definition.As previously mentioned, various structure divisions can structuring, forms block copolymer, or random copolymer or alternate copolymer.
In this first embodiment of the present invention, structural agent can also be made up of graft copolymer.Therefore, contain the silicone chains grafting that the unitary polyamide of silicone can be used phosphinylidyne-containing amine group, and optional crosslinked.This base polymer can use trifunctional amine synthetic.
In this case, this copolymer can comprise at least one structure division of following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400201
X wherein 1And X 2Be identical or different, have the implication that provides for the X in the general formula (I),
N such as in general formula (I) definition, Y and T such as in general formula (I) definition, R 11-R 18Be to be selected from and R 1-R 4Group in the identical group, m 1And m 2Be the numerical value of 1-1000, and p is the integer of 2-500.
In general formula (VII), preferably:
-p is 1-25, is more preferably 1-7,
-R 11-R 18Be methyl,
-T is corresponding to one of following structural:
Figure BSA00000645511400202
R wherein 19Be hydrogen atom or be selected from for R 1-R 4Group in the group of definition, and R 20, R 21And R 22Be linearity or sub-branched alkyl independently, and more preferably corresponding to following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400211
Especially R 20, R 21And R 22Expression-CH 2-CH 2-,
-m 1And m 2Be 15-500 and be more preferably 15-45,
-X 1And X 2Expression-(CH 2) 10-and
-Y representes-CH 2-.
These contain general formula (VII) grafting silicone structure part polyamide can with the polyamide-silicone copolymerization of general formula (II), form block copolymer, alternate copolymer or random copolymer.Grafting silicone structure part (VII) weight percent in copolymer can be 0.5-30wt%.
According to the present invention, as seeing in front, siloxane unit can be in the main chain or skeleton of polymer, but they also may reside in grafted chain or the side chain.In main chain, siloxane unit can be aforesaid segment form.In side chain or grafted chain, siloxane unit can occur separately or with segmental form.
According to the present invention, preferred siloxanes-based polyamide is:
-wherein m is the polyamide of the general formula (III) of 15-50;
-wherein m is the polyamide of the general formula (III) of 30-500;
-wherein at least a polyamide has the mixture of two or more polyamide of the m value of 15-50 and the m value that at least a polyamide has 30-50;
-m 1In the scope of 15-50, select and m 2In the scope of 30-500, select, corresponding to m 1Part account for polyamide gross weight 1-99wt% and corresponding to m 2Part account for the polymer of logical formula V of 1-99wt% of the gross weight of polyamide;
-below having combined 1) and 2) the mixture of polyamide of general formula (III):
1) the wherein n of 80-99wt% equal 2-10 and especially 3-6 polyamide and
2) the wherein n of 1-20wt% is 30-500 and the polyamide of 30-100 especially;
-below having combined 1) and 2) the mixture of polyamide of general formula (III):
1) the wherein n of 1-20wt% equals 2-10, especially the polyamide of 3-6 and
2) the wherein n of 80-99wt% is 30-500, especially the polyamide of 30-100;
-wherein group Y and Y 1At least one contain the polyamide corresponding to general formula (VI) of at least one hydroxyl substituent;
-replace the polyamide of the synthetic general formula of diacid (III) with the activation diacid (diacid chloride, dicarboxylic anhydride or diester) of at least a portion;
-wherein X representes-(CH 2) 3-or-(CH 2) 10The polyamide of general formula (III); With
-wherein polyamide is with being selected from monofunctional amines, monofunctional acid, and monofunctional alcohol comprises fatty acid, aliphatic alcohol and fatty amine, octyl amine for example, capryl alcohol, the polyamide of the general formula (III) at the simple function chain terminal in stearic acid and the stearyl alcohol.
According to the present invention, the end of polymer chain can stop with following groups:
-through between synthesis stage, introducing C 1-C 50Monohydric alcohol and the C that obtains 1-C 50The alkyl ester group,
-through adopting monoacid, perhaps through adopting monoamine as stopping the C that group (if silicone is an alpha, omega-dicarboxylic acid) obtains as stopping group (if silicone is α, ω-two is aminating) 1-C 50The alkylamide group.
According to one embodiment of the invention modification, can adopt the copolymer of silicone polyamide and hydrocarbon-based polyamide, that is, comprised the copolymer of general formula (III) or structure division (IV) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide structure division.In this case, polyamide-silicone structure part can be arranged in the end of hydrocarbon-based polyamide.
Polyamide-based structures the agent that contains silicone can be produced through the silane amidatioon based on the dimeric polyamide of fatty acid.This method comprises as end site and is present in free acid site and the reaction (amidation process) of oligosiloxane-monoamine and/or oligosiloxane-diamidogen on the polyamide, perhaps with the reaction (esterification) of oligosiloxane alcohol or oligosiloxane glycol.Esterification needs acid catalyst, and this is known in the art.Concerning the polyamide that contains the free acid site that is used for amidatioon or esterification, it is desirable to, have a large amount of relatively acid end group (for example having high acid value, for example the polyamide of 15-20).
Amidatioon for the free acid site of hydrocarbon-based polyamide; Have 1-300, more specifically 2-50 can be used for the siloxane diamine that is more preferably 2,6,9.5,12,13.5,23 or 31 siloxane groups and react based on the dimeric hydrocarbon of fatty acid-based polyamide.The siloxane diamine that contains 13.5 siloxane groups is preferred, and has obtained optimum with siloxane diamine that contains 13.5 siloxane groups and the polyamide that contains a large amount of carboxylic end groups.
These reactions can be carried out in xylene, extract the water that is produced by solution through azeotropic distillation, and perhaps (approximately 180-200 ℃) carries out under higher temperature not having under the situation of solvent.Usually, when siloxane diamine than long time, that is to say, when the number of siloxane group is big, amidated effectiveness and reaction rate reduction.After the initial amidation process of diaminourea siloxanes, through let they and silica alkanoic acid or with organic acid such as benzoic acid, can seal the unhindered amina site.
For the esterification of free acid site on polyamide, this can use the p-methyl benzenesulfonic acid with respect to about 1wt% of the gross weight of reagent to carry out as catalyst in boiling xylene.
These reactions of on the carboxylic end group of polyamide, carrying out have only been introduced the silicone structure part at the end of polymer chain.
Can also use the polyamide that contains free amine to prepare the copolymer of polyamide-silicone through carrying out amidation process with the siloxanes that contains acidic group.
Through having the for example polyamide and the oligosiloxane-α of ethylenediamine composition; The amide groups of ω-diamidogen under high temperature (for example 200-300 ℃) shifts; Shift so that the ethylenediamine component of initial polyamide is carried out amide groups with the alternate mode of oligosiloxane diamidogen, can also prepare structural agent based on the copolymer of hydrocarbon-based polyamide and silicone polyamide.
The copolymer of hydrocarbon-based polyamide and polyamide-silicone can also be to comprise having the graft copolymer that side is hung the hydrocarbon-based polyamide skeleton of oligosiloxane group.
This for example can obtain through following method:
The hydrosilylation of-unsaturated bond in dimeric polyamide based on fatty acid;
The silanization of the amide group of-polyamide; Or
-unsaturated polyester amide utilizes the silanization of oxidation, that is to say, unsaturated group is oxidized to alcohol or glycol, forms the hydroxyl with siloxanes carboxylic acid or silica reaction of alkanol.The olefinic site of unsaturated polyester amide can also epoxidation, epoxy radicals then can with silica alkanamine or silica reaction of alkanol.
Second embodiment according to the present invention, structural agent is made up of homopolymer that contains urea alkane or urea groups or copolymer.
As previously mentioned, this polymer can be included in the skeleton of polymer or on side chain or as side group, contain the polysiloxane structure division of two or more urea alkane and/or urea groups.
The polymer that in skeleton, comprises at least two urea alkane and/or urea groups can be the polymer that comprises corresponding at least one structure division of following formula:
R wherein 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, X, Y, m and n such as the above definition that provides for general formula (I),
And U represent-O-or-NH-, make:
Figure BSA00000645511400242
Corresponding to urea alkane or urea groups.
In this general formula (VIII), Y can be linearity or branching C 1-C 40Alkylidene, optional by C 1-C 15Alkyl or C 5-C 10Aryl replaces.Preferably, use-(CH 2) 6-group.
Y can also represent can be by C 1-C 15Alkyl or C 5-C 10The substituted C of aryl 5-C 12Cyclic aliphatic or aromatic group for example are selected from methylene-4, the 4-dicyclohexyl, and by the deutero-group of IPDI, 2,4-and 2, the 6-toluylene, 1, the 5-naphthylene, to phenylene and 4, the group in 4 '-biphenylene methane.Generally, Y preferably representes linearity or branching C 1-C 40Alkylidene or C 4-C 12Cycloalkylidene.
Y can also represent corresponding to the polyurethane of the condensation substance of the coupling agent molecule of several diisocyanate molecules and one or more glycol or diamine type or polyureas block.In this case, Y comprises several urea alkane or urea groups in alkylidene chain.
It can be corresponding to following general formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400243
B wherein 1Be the group that is selected from the above group that provides for Y, U is-O-or-NH-and B 2Be selected from:
-linearity or branching C 1-C 40Alkylidene,
-C 5-C 12Cycloalkylidene, the optional alkyl substituent that carries, for example 1-3 methyl or ethyl, or alkylidene substituent group, for example glycol group: cyclohexanedimethanol,
-can choose wantonly and carry C 1-C 3The phenylene of alkyl substituent and
The group of-following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400251
Wherein T possibly contain the hydrocarbon-Ji trivalent group of one or more hetero atoms such as oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen,
R 5Be polysiloxane chain or linearity or branching C 1-C 50Alkyl chain.
T for example can represent:
Figure BSA00000645511400252
Wherein w is integer and the R of 1-10 5It is the polysiloxane chain.
When Y is linearity or branching C 1-C 40Alkylidene ,-(CH 2) 2-with-(CH 2) 6-group is preferred.
In the above chemical formula that provides for Y, d can be 0-5, preferred 0-3 and more preferably equal 1 or 2 integer.
Preferably, B 2Be linearity or branching C 1-C 40Alkylidene, especially-(CH 2) 2-with-(CH 2) 6-group or following group:
Figure BSA00000645511400253
R wherein 5It is the polysiloxane chain.
As previously mentioned, the polymer that constitutes structural agent can partly be formed by different length and/or the silicone of forming urea alkane and/or silicone urea structure, and can be the form of block or random copolymer.
According to the present invention, this silicone can also be no longer in skeleton, but comprises urea alkane and/or urea groups as side shoot.
In this case, this polymer can comprise the structure division of at least one following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400261
R wherein 1, R 2, R 3, m 1And m 2Have the above implication that provides for general formula (I),
-U representes O or NH,
-R 23The optional one or more heteroatomic C that is selected among O and the N that comprises of expression 1-C 40Alkylidene, or phenylene and
-R 24Be selected from linearity, branching or ring-type, saturated or unsaturated C 1-C 50Alkyl, and optional by 1-3 C 1-C 3The substituted phenyl of alkyl.
The polymer that comprises the structure division of at least one general formula (X) contains siloxane unit and urea or urethane groups, and they can be used as structural agent in compositions of the present invention.
Siloxane polymer can have single urea or urethane groups/side shoot maybe can have the side shoot that contains two ureas or urethane groups, or they can comprise side shoot that contains a urea or urethane groups and the mixture that contains the side shoot of two ureas or urethane groups.
They can be through letting the branched polysiloxane and the monoisocyanates reaction that comprise one or two amino/side shoot obtained by these polysiloxanes.
Contain the example of the starting polymer of amino and diaminourea side shoot as this type, can mention polymer corresponding to chemical formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400271
In these chemical formulas, symbol "/" representes that these segments can have different length and random order, and R representes preferably to contain 1-6 carbon atom and the linear aliphatic group that is more preferably 1-3 carbon atom.
Can contain the siloxane polymer of at least three amino/polymer molecules and only (for example contain a simple function group through letting; Acid; Isocyanates or isothiocyanate) chemical compound reaction; Thereby make this simple function group and one of amino reaction, and form and to set up the interactional group of hydrogen, form the polymer that this type of contains side shoot.Amino can be on the side chain that the main chain from siloxane polymer extends; Make on these side chains, to form and to set up the interactional group of hydrogen; Perhaps, amino can be at the end of main chain, and making it possible to set up the interactional group of hydrogen is the end group of polymer.
Contain silica alkyl structure part and the operation that can set up the polymer of the interactional group of hydrogen as formation, can mention siloxane diamine and vulcabond and in the silicone solvent, react, thereby directly gel is provided.This reaction can be carried out in silicone fluid, and products therefrom at high temperature is dissolved in the silicone fluid, reduces the temperature of system then, thereby forms gel.
It is linear preferably being incorporated into according to the polymer in the compositions of the present invention, and in the skeleton of polymer, contains urea groups as the siloxane-urea copolymers that can set up the interactional group of hydrogen.
As with the illustrating of the polysiloxanes at four urea groups terminals, can mention the polymer of following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400281
Wherein Ph is that phenyl and n are 0-300, especially 0-100, for example 50 numerical value.
This polymer can be through letting following amino polysiloxanes and the carbanil of containing react and obtain:
Figure BSA00000645511400282
The polymer that in the chain of silicone polymer, contains the general formula (VIII) of urea or urethane groups can be through letting the α that contains of following formula, ω-NH 2Or-silicone of OH end group:
M wherein, R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4With X such as above for general formula (I) definition and the vulcabond OCN-Y-NCO of Y wherein with the implication that in general formula (I), provides; With optional chemical formula H 2N-B 2-NH 2Or HO-B 2The glycol of-OH or diamidogen coupling agent react and obtain, wherein B 2Such as in general formula (IX) definition.
According to the stoichiometric ratio between these two kinds of reagent, vulcabond and coupling agents, Y can have d wherein equal 0 or d equal the general formula (IX) of 1-5.
As under the situation of general formula (II) or polyamide silicone (III), can use the structure division that contains different length and structure in the present invention, especially the difference of length is the polyurethane or the polyureas silicone of the number of silicone structure part.In this case, this copolymer can be for example corresponding to chemical formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400291
R wherein 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, X, Y and U such as above for general formula (VIII) definition, and m 1, m 2, n and p such as for logical formula V definition.
Branched polyurethanes or polyureas silicone can also use the triisocyanate of following formula to replace vulcabond OCN-Y-NCO to obtain:
Figure BSA00000645511400292
The polyurethane or the polyureas silicone that comprise the organopolysiloxane chain and can set up the side shoot of the interactional group of hydrogen have been obtained to contain like this.This polymer has for example comprised the structure division corresponding to following formula:
Figure BSA00000645511400301
X wherein 1And X 2Be identical or different, have the implication that provides for the X in the general formula (I), n such as in general formula (I) definition, Y and T such as in general formula (I) definition, R 11-R 18Be to be selected from and R 1-R 4Group in the identical group, m 1And m 2Be the numerical value of 1-1000, and p is the integer of 2-500.
As under the situation of polyamide, this copolymer can also comprise does not have ramose polyurethane silicone structure part.
In this second embodiment of the present invention, preferred siloxanes-Ji polyureas and polyurethane are:
-wherein m is the polymer of the general formula (VIII) of 15-50;
-wherein m is the polymer of the general formula (VIII) of 30-500;
-wherein at least a polymer has the m value of 15-50 and two or more mixture of polymers of the m value that at least a polymer has 30-50;
-m 1In the scope of 15-50, select and m 2In the scope of 30-500, select, corresponding to m 1Part account for polymer gross weight 1-99wt% and corresponding to m 2Part account for the polymer of general formula (XII) of 1-99wt% of the gross weight of polymer;
-below having combined 1) and 2) the mixture of polymers of general formula (VIII):
1) the wherein n of 1-20wt% equal 2-10 and especially 3-6 polymer and
2) the wherein n of 80-99wt% is 300-500 and the polymer of 30-100 especially;
-comprised group Y wherein at least one contain the copolymer of two structure divisions of the general formula (VIII) of at least one hydroxyl substituent;
-replace the polymer of the synthetic general formula of diacid (VIII) with the activation diacid (diacid chloride, dicarboxylic anhydride or diester) of at least a portion;
-wherein X representes-(CH 2) 3-or-(CH 2) 10The polymer of general formula (VIII); With
-wherein polymer is with being selected from monofunctional amines, monofunctional acid, and monofunctional alcohol comprises fatty acid, aliphatic alcohol and fatty amine, octyl amine for example, capryl alcohol, the polymer of the general formula (VIII) at the simple function chain terminal in stearic acid and the stearyl alcohol.
As under the situation of polyamide; Through α in non-silicone character; ω-two functional blocks, the reaction of for example synthesizing this polymer under polyester, polyethers or the polyolefinic existence can be used the copolymer of polyurethane or polyureas silicone and hydrocarbon-based polyurethanes or polyureas in the present invention.
As seeing in front; The gelatinizing agent of forming by homopolymer of the present invention or copolymer can contain in the main chain of polymer the siloxane structure part and at the main chain or the end of polymer, or on the side shoot of side chain or main chain, can set up the interactional group of hydrogen.These can be corresponding to following 5 kinds of layouts:
Figure BSA00000645511400311
Wherein solid line is that the main chain and the box indicating of siloxane polymer can be set up the interactional group of hydrogen.
In situation (1), can set up the end that the interactional group of hydrogen is arranged in main chain.In situation (2), can set up each end that interactional two groups of hydrogen are arranged in main chain.
In situation (3), can set up the interactional group of hydrogen and be arranged in the main chain in the repetitive structure part.
In situation (4) and (5), they are copolymers, wherein can set up the interactional group of hydrogen and be arranged on the side shoot with the main chain of first series structure part that does not comprise the structure division copolymerization that can set up the interactional group of hydrogen.Value n, x and y should make this polymer have with regard to as the desired properties of gel based on the fatty reagent mutually of silicone oil.
According to the present invention, the structuring of liquid aliphatic phase that contains at least a silicone oil is by one or more above-mentioned polymer and one or more can reduce the melt temperature of these one or more polymer and the chemical compound of fusion enthalpy obtains.
As the instance of operable polymer, can mention silicone polyamide according to the embodiment 1-3 acquisition of file US-A-5 981 680.
Polymer that in compositions of the present invention, uses and copolymer advantageously have 65-190 ℃ softening point.Preferably, they have 70-130 ℃ be more preferably 80-105 ℃ softening point.This softening point is lower than the softening point of known structure fluidized polymer, and this helps the application of polymer, allows to use ethereal oil and limited liquid aliphatic deterioration mutually.
They have fine solubility in silicone oil, formed macroscopic homogeneous compositions.Preferably, they have 500-200000, for example 1000-100000, the preferably mean molecule quantity of 2000-200000.
Can reduce the fusion enthalpy and the chemical compound that possibly also have melt temperature of structuring polymer
Chemical compound according to the present invention contains one or more fusion enthalpies that can reduce structuring polymer (Δ H) and possibly also reduce melt temperature (m.p.); Preferably can reduce the chemical compound that fusion enthalpy (Δ H) can reduce melt temperature (m.p.) again.These one or more chemical compounds can help the application of compositions and improve the deposition that obtains with these compositionss, that is to say, this sedimentary amount does not contain the amount that these compound compositions obtain greater than using under the same conditions.Said chemical compound can reduce fatty phase structuring polymer fusion enthalpy with possibly also have melt temperature.
In a single day statement reduction fusion enthalpy is considered to be meant and contacts with these one or more chemical compounds that the fusion enthalpy of this polymer is lower than the fusion enthalpy (quality with existing polymer is that benchmark is represented) that under pure state, shows.
Fusion enthalpy uses differential scanning calorimetry; The calorimeter of for example selling by TAInst. company with the trade name of MDSC 2920; Measure through so-called power back-off thermometric analysis technology (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), wherein apply 2 ℃/minute intensification.
Fusion enthalpy is corresponding to the surface area under the gained thermal analysis curve.
Thermal analysis curue is a power back-off differential calorimetric enthalpy curve: this curve representation with the temperature on the x axle become by the heat that unit interval provided at the y plot on X axis.
The amount of above chemical compound in compositions depended in the reduction of fusion enthalpy Δ H.This amount should make is enough to cause the reduction of fusion enthalpy Δ H, and this reduces normally the straight polymer of 3J/g at least, the preferred straight polymer of 4J/g at least, the also preferred straight polymer of 5-10J/g at least.
When this chemical compound comprises with this amount, all above-mentioned effects have been found.In other words, the introducing of these chemical compounds of capacity (can cause the reduction of fusion enthalpy potentially) makes them bring into play this only potential at first effect effectively.
In addition, said chemical compound generally can also reduce the melt temperature (m.p.) of structuring polymer.
Statement reduces melt temperature, and promptly in a single day fusing point is understood that to be meant and contacts with these one or more chemical compounds, and the fusing point of this polymer is lower than the fusing point that it shows under pure state.
According to the present invention; Melt temperature; Be that fusing point is corresponding to using differential scanning calorimetry; The calorimeter of for example being sold by TA Inst. company with the trade name of MDSC 2920, the fusing point through so-called power back-off thermometric analysis technology (Differential Scanning Calorimetry) is measured wherein applies 2 ℃/minute intensification.The fusing point of being thought is the point corresponding to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak of gained thermal analysis curue.Thermal analysis curue is like above definition.
In order to estimate reduction by the caused melt temperature of chemical compound that can reduce fusing point that in compositions of the present invention, comprises; At first measure the melt temperature of straight polymer through above method; Use this polymer of one or more compound dissolutions that can reduce melt temperature more than the melt temperature at its that measure in advance then, the reuse Same Way is measured the fusing point of the mixture of polymer and this chemical compound under the same conditions.
The amount of above chemical compound in compositions depended in the reduction of melt temperature.This amount should make the real reduction of the melt temperature that is enough to cause polymer.This reduction generally is at least 3 ℃, preferably at least 4 ℃, and more preferably 5-20 ℃.
The macroscopic view that advantageously obtains the chemical compound that in addition, can reduce melt temperature and fusion enthalpy goes up evenly and/or at the chemical compound of the fat of compositions solvable or dispersible composition in mutually.
Uniform compositions is that at room temperature (20-25 ℃) observes with the naked eye the compositions of single phase on the macroscopic view.
The chemical compound that can reduce the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer preferably dissolves in the fatty phase of compositions, that is to say, this chemical compound exists with the form that is distributed in the individual molecule of fat in mutually.
The chemical compound that can reduce the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer advantageously can be scattered in the fatty phase of compositions, that is to say, this chemical compound with the form with micel that naked eyes can not detected size be uniformly distributed in fat mutually in.
These performances can use these chemical compounds and structuring polymer to describe with the fact of other component " compatible " of optional and compositions.
The chemical compound that preferably, can reduce the fusion enthalpy of polymer has also reduced melt temperature.
More preferably, these chemical compounds have reduced melt temperature and have formed macroscopical uniform compositions that.
In other words, preferably, enumerate more than the specific compound that in compositions of the present invention, uses should satisfy simultaneously and with the reduction of the reduction of melt temperature, fusion enthalpy and macroscopic view on three relevant conditions of formation of homogeneous compositions.
The chemical compound that the melt temperature that reduces the fusion enthalpy that can cause structuring polymer and choose wantonly reduces be selected from comprise at least one contain can with the hydrocarbon and/or the silicone compounds of the right functional group of the free electron of the interaction of hydrogen bond of polymer.This functional group for example is selected from hydroxyl (alcohol), carboxyl, amino, primary, the second month in a season and tertiary amine, urea and urea alkane, ether and ester.
Preferred functional group is an alcohol functional group, therefore, can cause that the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer and the chemical compound that optional melt temperature reduces preferentially are selected from monohydric alcohol, and polyhydric alcohol is such as two pure and mild triols etc., and polyol ethers.
Especially, can cause that fusion enthalpy reduces and the optional chemical compound that causes that melt temperature reduces can be selected from the silicone glycol.
The silicone glycol that is fit to especially is described in file US-A-5 969 172, can describe with reference to this, and sold by GENERAL ELECTRIC company.
The chemical compound of this document is corresponding to following general formula:
M aM′ bD cD′ dT eT′ f?Q g
Subscript a wherein, b, c, d, e, f and g are 0 or positive integer, and prerequisite is that the summation of subscript b, d and f is 1 or greater than 1;
Wherein M has chemical formula:
R 1 3SiO 1/2
Each R wherein 1Expression has the univalence hydrocarbyl of 1-40 carbon atom independently;
M ' has chemical formula:
R II 3-hR III hSiO 1/2
Each R wherein IIBe univalence hydrocarbyl independently with 1-40 carbon atom, R IIIBe to be selected from H 2(OH) CCH (OH) CH 2OCH 2CH 2CH 2-and (HOCH 2) 2C (CH 2CH 3) CH 2O CH 2CH 2CH 2-in univalence hydrocarbyl, wherein subscript h is 1,2 or 3;
D has chemical formula:
R IV 2SiO 2/2
Each R wherein IVBe univalence hydrocarbyl independently with 1-40 carbon atom;
D ' has chemical formula:
R V 2-iR VI iSiO 2/2
Each R wherein IVBe univalence hydrocarbyl independently with 1-40 carbon atom, R VBe to be selected from H 2(OH) CCH (OH) CH 2OCH 2CH 2CH 2-and (HOCH 2) 2C (CH 2CH 3) CH 2O CH 2CH 2CH 2-in univalence hydrocarbyl, wherein subscript i is 1 or 2;
T has chemical formula:
R VII?SiO 3/2
Each R wherein VIIBe univalence hydrocarbyl independently with 1-40 carbon atom,
T ' has chemical formula:
R VIIISiO 3/2
R wherein VIIIBe to be selected from H 2(OH) CCH (OH) CH 2OCH 2CH 2CH 2-and (HOCH 2) 2C (CH 2CH 3) CH 2OCH 2CH 2CH 2-in univalence hydrocarbyl and Q have chemical formula SiO 4/2
Preferred chemical compound is at the chemical compound shown in the following table 3:
Table 3
Chemical compound Structural formula Functional group
1 MD 4′M 1, the 3-glycol
2 M′D 3M′ 1, the 3-glycol
3 MD 6,4D′ 5M 1, the 3-glycol
4 MD 10D′ 7M 1, the 3-glycol
5 M′D 3M′ 1, the 2-glycol
6 M′D 5M′ 1, the 3-glycol
7 MD 6,4D′ 5M 1, the 2-glycol
8 MD 3D′ 3M 1, the 2-glycol
9 MD 7D′ 3M 1, the 3-glycol
10 M′D 5M′ 1, the 2-glycol
11 M′D 7,5M′ 1, the 3-glycol
12 MD 7D′ 3M 1, the 2-glycol
13 M′D 7,5M′ 1, the 2-glycol
14 M′D 10M′ 1, the 3-glycol
15 M′D 10M′ 1, the 2-glycol
16 MD 20D′ 3M 1, the 3-glycol
17 M′D 25M′ 1, the 2-glycol
In table 3: 1, the 3-glycol is meant this functional group, i.e. R III, R VOr R VIIIBe group (HOCH 2) 2C (CH 2CH 3) CH 2O CH 2CH 2CH 2--promptly by the deutero-group of mono allyl ether (TMPMAE) of trimethylolpropane, and 1, the 2-glycol is meant that this functional group is group H 2(OH) CCH (OH) CH 2OCH 2CH 2CH 2-, promptly by the deutero-group of monoene propyl group glycerol.
In table 3, further preferred chemical compound is M ' D 3M ', M ' D 7,5M ', M ' D 10M ' and M ' D 25M '.
Can cause that fusion enthalpy reduction and the optional chemical compound that causes that also melt temperature reduces can also be selected from oxyalkylene and gather two (alkyl) siloxane compound; Wherein the alkyl of siloxanes has 1-4 carbon atom and alkylidene has 1-4 carbon atom; The alkyl that preferably gathers two (alkyl) siloxanes is that methyl and alkylidene oxide are oxypropylene and/or oxidation ethylidene, and this chemical compound is oxypropylene and/or oxidation ethylidene PDMS.
This compounds is with polydimethylsiloxane polyhydric alcohol or polyol (PDMS-EO-PO) title and known by everybody; Wherein can mention oxidation ethylidene (7/9EO) oxypropylene (10/14PO) polydimethylsiloxane of selling by DEGUSSA with the reference title of ABILL B 8873, or INCI name oxidation ethylidene (200E) oxypropylene (200P) polydimethylsiloxane that is called the PEG/PPG-17/18 polydimethylsiloxane and sells with the trade name of " Q2-5220 RESIN modifier " by DOW CORNING.
The fusion enthalpy reduction and optional other chemical compound that causes that also melt temperature reduces that can cause polymer are the monoalky lethers of polyalkylene (1-4 carbon atom) glycol; The monoalky lether of polypropylene glycol or Polyethylene Glycol for example, such as single myristyl ether of the polypropylene glycol of following formula:
H-[OCH(CH 3)CH 2] nO-(CH 2) 13-CH 3
N=2-200 wherein.
The reduction that can cause the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer has 8 carbon atoms of surpassing with another chemical compound family that possibly cause the melt temperature reduction; The for example linearity of 12-26 carbon atom or branched aliphatic monohydric alcohol are such as 2-butyl capryl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol; 2-undecyl decanol; 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, preferred alcohol is octyldodecanol.
Can comprise fusion enthalpy that can reduce these one or more polymer and the unification compound that possibly also have melt temperature, perhaps several kinds of these chemical compounds, they are selected from any chemical compound group and the family of above definition separately.
The fusion enthalpy that can reduce polymer generally is 5-25wt% with the content that possibly reduce these one or more chemical compounds of melt temperature, preferred 10-20wt%.
This amount is the sufficient amount of above definition, and reduction and the melt temperature of possible polymer of fusion enthalpy that can obtain to be respectively the polymer of 3J/g at least and at least 3 ℃ reduces.
Polymer in the reduction cosmetic composition is unknown such as the fusion enthalpy of PASi with the application of compound that possibly reduce melt temperature in the art.This compounds with according to particular polymers of the present invention combine in the prior art both to describe also propose.According to prior art; Can not consider that this combination can cause performance; Especially the cosmetic composition that comprises this conjugate be prone to the property used with maybe also glossiness wonderful improvement; And the sedimental performance that obtains by the cosmetic composition that comprises this conjugate, especially quality with maybe also glossiness improvement.
The amount of fusion enthalpy that reduces these polymer and structuring polymer and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature can be selected according to the required hardness of compositions and required stability and according to contemplated specifically should being used for.This (at least a) structuring polymer and reduction fusion enthalpy should make with respectively estimating one's own ability of the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature and obtain immobilising decomposable solid under the own wt effect.
According to corresponding to one of embodiment of the present invention of bar, said composition preferably has 20-2000gf and is more preferably 20-900gf, especially 20-600gf, the for example hardness of 150-450gf.This hardness can be measured according to probe being thrust said method for compositions, especially by the texture analysis appearance (for example coming from the TA-TXT2i of Rheo) of the hard rubber cylinder that high 25mm and diameter 8mm are housed.Carry out at hardness measurement center at 5 samples of said compositions under 20 ℃.This cylinder is with the preparatory speed of 2mm/s, and the speed with 0.5mm/s gets into each composition sample with best back speed with 2mm/s then, and total displacement is 1mm.The hardness number of record is a peak-peak.Measurement error is ± 50gf.
This hardness can also be measured through " cheese silk (cbeese wire) " method.This method comprises the lipstick tube of cutting diameter 12.7mm and uses the DFGHS that comes from Indelco-Chatillon company 2 cupping machines of advancing with the speed of 100mm/min to measure hardness down at 20 ℃.It representes (by g power) as the required shearing force of cutting bar under these conditions.According to this method, be 30-300gf according to the hardness of the compositions of bar form of the present invention, preferred 30-250gf and for example 30-200gf are more preferably 30-120gf, when the diameter of bar equals 12.7mm.
In addition, the hardness of said composition can be lower, as long as said composition can self-supporting and decomposed easily, on skin and lip, forms satisfactory deposit.Through fusion enthalpy that can reduce polymer and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature are provided, obtained to be prone to the deposit of property used and gratifying abundant amount in all cases in compositions of the present invention.
In addition, have these hardness numbers, compositions display of the present invention good impact strength.
Generally, the fusion enthalpy that can reduce polymer is 0.1-50 with the silicone polymer/compound quality that possibly reduce melt temperature than generally, and preferred 0.5-25 is more preferably 1-15.
This structuring silicone polymer preferably accounts for the 5-30wt% of compositions.
Other additive
Compositions of the present invention can also comprise any composition that institute's research field is commonly used, especially is selected from filler, dissolves in the dyestuff of polyhydric alcohol or fatty phase, antioxidant, quintessence oil class; Antiseptic, spice, lipophilic polymer, especially the hydro carbons lipophilic polymer is such as polyolefin or polyoxyethylene lauryl vinyl acetate, the agent of liquid aliphatic phase structure; Wax, natural gum, resin, surfactant, for example trioleyl phosphate; Other cosmetics or dermatosis activating agent, water for example, emollient, humidizer, vitamin; Liquid lanolin, essential fatty acid, lipotropy sunscreen or dissolve in the sunscreen of polyhydric alcohol, and those compositions in their mixture.The lipid vesicle that can also contain ion and/or nonionic class according to compositions of the present invention.Except water, the 0-20% of the gross weight that these compositions can compositions, preferred 0.01-20%, the ratio that is more preferably 0.1-10% is present in the compositions by common mode.
Contain under the situation of water the situation of multiple emulsion (simple or) in compositions, this water can account for the 0.1-70% of the gross weight of compositions, and especially 0.5-40% is more preferably 1-20%.This water can contain any water miscibility chemical compound such as polyhydric alcohol, can choose wantonly with the gelatinizing agent gel that is fit to.
Much less, those skilled in the art can carefully select these optional supplementary elements and/or their amount, and feasible advantageous property according to compositions of the present invention does not receive, or does not receive the adverse effect of contemplated interpolation basically.
Compositions of the present invention especially can contain one or more waxes, Tissuemat E for example, if but hope to obtain glossy, or even during opaque products, avoid the use of wax.Usually, the amount of wax is no more than 20% and preferred 10%; For example, it accounts for the 3-5% of composition total weight.Even do not having under the situation of wax or having under the situation of a small amount of wax, the advantageous property of having enumerated more than all having shown according to compositions of the present invention.
According to compositions of the present invention can be that keratin material is such as skin; The form of the optional painted care composition of lip and/or body surface growth-gen, the form of sun-proof or care composition, the product form of especially removing ornaments and formal dress; Bar or domed form, or casting product form.It especially can be used as the nursing base material (the lip face cream is used to protect lip opposing cold and/or sunlight and/or wind, or the nursing of skin, fingernail or hair frost) of skin, body surface growth-gen or lip.
Compositions of the present invention especially can be soft, the form of clear gel or transparent bar provides.
Compositions of the present invention can also foundation cream (optional have nursing or curative properties), rouge, and face powder, eye shadow cream covers up applying some make up, eyeliner or body cosmetics; Optional lip cosmetics with nursing or curative properties, lip pomade for example, bright lip pomade of transparent height and liner; The body surface growth-gen, for example the form of the cosmetics of fingernail or eyelashes (the especially form of eyelashes muffin) or eyebrow and the hair form of pen (especially with) provides.
Especially, compositions of the present invention can be to contain active cosmetic agent, quintessence oil for example, vitamin, humidizer, the cosmetics of sunscreen and ceramide type (ceramides).
Under the situation of cosmetic composition, hydrophobic or hydrophilic solid particle can constitute the pigment of beauty treatment skin, lip and/or body surface growth-gen.
Much less, compositions of the present invention must be that cosmetics or Dermatology are acceptable, and promptly it must contain nontoxic, the physiology acceptable medium of skin, body surface growth-gen or the lip that can be applied to the people.For the present invention, statement " cosmetics are acceptable " is meant the compositions of outward appearance, abnormal smells from the patient and the feel of pleasant.
And, must comprise nonvolatile oil (silicone oil or non-silicone oil) and/or paste or the viscous product of at least 10 quality % according to beauty treatment of the present invention or care composition, so that obtain comfortable and do not cause impervious product.
Statement paste product is considered to be meant the viscous fatty material that contains liquid fraction and solid fraction.For the present invention, statement " paste fatty material " be meant have 20-55 ℃ with preferred 25-45 ℃ fusing point, and/or the 0.1-40Pa.s (1-400 pool) and the preferred fatty material of 40 ℃ of viscosity of 0.5-25Pa.s.This viscosity use according to (the power supply supply of 60Hz) under the 240min-1 or under 200min-1 the Contraves TV or Rheomat 180 viscometer determinings of the axle of (the power supply supply of 50Hz) rotation, perhaps in viewed newtonian flow scope, measuring under 40 ℃ with Haake Rs75 flow graph with flat cone mandrel.
Those skilled in the art can select to be used to measure the axle of viscosity according to its general knowledge, so that the viscosity of energy measurement test paste complex.
According to the present invention, and as stated, melting point values is corresponding to the maximum endothermic fusion peak of measuring with " differential scanning calorimetry " with the intensification of 20 ℃/min.
Example as the paste product that can use in the present invention; Can mention and have 18-21Pa.s; The viscosity of preferred 19-20.5Pa.s and/or 30-55 ℃; The lanoline and the lanolin derivative of preferred 30-40 ℃ fusing point, for example acetylated lanolin or oxypropylene lanoline or lanolin fatty acid isopropyl ester, and their mixture.Can also use the ester of fatty acid or aliphatic alcohol, especially contain those (approximately 20-35 ℃ fusing point and/or 40 ℃ of viscosity of 0.1-40Pa.s) of 20-65 carbon atom, for example, citric acid three different stearyl esters or citric acid cetyl; Propanoic acid Semen arachidis hypogaeae ester; The polyoxyethylene lauryl vinyl acetate; Cholesteryl ester, for example the triglyceride of plant origin is such as hydrogenated vegetable oil, and the viscosity polyester for example gathers (12-hydroxy stearic acid) and their mixture.The triglyceride of operable plant origin comprises the castor oil hydrogenated derivant, such as " THIXINR " that come from Rheox.
Can also mention silicone-type paste fatty material such as the side chain of alkyl that contains 8-24 carbon atom or alkoxyl type and have 20-55 ℃; The polydimethylsiloxane of 20-40 ℃ fusing point (PDMS) for example; Stearyl dimethicone for example; Especially those that sell by Dow Corning company with the trade name of DC2503 and DC25514, and their mixture.
The paste fatty material can be with respect to the ratio of the 0-60wt% of composition total weight, preferably with the ratio of 0.1-45wt% and also more preferably the ratio of 2-30wt% exist.
According to the present invention, said composition comprises the solid particle that is selected from filler and pigment (comprising pearlescent pigment) and their mixture usually in addition.
Statement pigment is considered to be meant any solid particle that is insoluble to compositions, and it is used to provide and/or changes color and/or rainbow outward appearance.
Pigment can be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic, and coating or uncoated is arranged.Inorganic pigment can for example be selected from zinc oxide, ferrum oxide, titanium dioxide and their mixture.In inorganic pigment, therefore can mention optional surface-treated titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, zirconium or cerium oxide, and ferrum or chromated oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydrate and barba hispanica.In organic pigment, can mention white carbon black, the pigment of D&C type, and based on the nitrate paint of carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.These pigment can account for the 0.1-50% of composition total weight, and 0.5-40% is more preferably 2-30%.
According to the present invention, said composition can contain the coloring material that can be selected from lipotropy dyestuff, hydrophilic dye and their mixture in addition.
If exist, this coloring material is usually with the 0.01-50% of composition total weight; The amount of preferred 5-30% exists.Should be noted that, can also at the pigment (and pearlescent pigment) described in the context of solid particle chromatic effect be provided through above.
Lipid-soluble dye for example is a tonyred, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, beta-carotene, soybean oil, sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, D C Yellow No. 10 and roucou.
Hydrophilic dye is beet juice and methylene blue especially.Soluble dye can account for the 0-20% of composition weight, is more preferably 0.1-6% (if existence).
Can make through the known method that is generally used for cosmetics or dermatosis field according to compositions of the present invention.It can be heated to its softening point with polymer at least through comprising; Add optional wax and/or paste compound, oil, the fusion enthalpy of reduction polymer and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature; Mix whole system then, make up to the method that obtains clear solution.Under agitation add coloring material and/or solid particle and additive then.The gained homogeneous mixture then can be in the mould that is fit to such as the lip pomade mould in casting, perhaps be introduced directly into packing articles, especially in box or the dish.
Theme of the present invention also is the beauty treatment structuring solid composite that is used for skin, lip and/or body surface growth-gen; At least a pigment that contains the amount that is enough to beauty treatment skin, lip and/or body surface growth-gen is continuous mutually fatty with the structurized liquid of polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with the weight average molecular weight of at least a 500-500000 of having, and said polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxalyl amido, guanidine and biguanide group and their conjugate at least two,
This polymer at room temperature is a solid, under 25-250 ℃ temperature, dissolves in the liquid aliphatic phase,
Said liquid aliphatic comprises at least a fusion enthalpy and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature that can reduce structuring polymer mutually,
Said compositions is optional to be provided with solid form, and pigment, liquid aliphatic phase, the chemical compound and the structuring polymer that can reduce the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer and possibly reduce melt temperature have formed the physiology acceptable medium.
This cosmetic composition is preferably self-supporting.
Theme of the present invention still is the lip pomade structured compositions; At least a pigment of amount that contains the lip that is enough to improve looks is continuous mutually fatty with the structurized liquid of polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) with the weight average molecular weight of at least a 500-500000 of having, and said polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxalyl amido, guanidine and biguanide group and their conjugate at least two,
This polymer at room temperature is a solid, under 25-250 ℃ temperature, dissolves in the liquid aliphatic phase,
This liquid aliphatic comprises at least a fusion enthalpy that can reduce structuring polymer and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature mutually, and pigment, liquid aliphatic phase, this polymer and can reduce the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer and possibly reduce melt temperature compound formation the physiology acceptable medium.
The present invention relates to be used for cosmetic care, beauty treatment or the processing method of people's keratin material, comprise cosmetic composition according to the present invention is applied to keratin material.
Theme of the present invention also be the polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight average molecular weight of at least a 500-500000 of having of q.s in cosmetic composition or be used to make the purposes of the physiology acceptable composition that contains continuous liquid fat phase, this polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxalyl amido, guanidine and biguanide group and their conjugate at least two,
This polymer at room temperature is a solid, under 25-250 ℃ temperature, dissolves in the liquid aliphatic phase,
This liquid aliphatic phase optional part or all form, and comprise a kind of fusion enthalpy that can reduce structuring polymer at least and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature by silicone oil with the flash-point that is equal to or higher than 40 ℃,
Said compositions provides with the solid form of self supporting type that is more preferably the hardness of 20-600gf with preferred 20-900gf to have 20-2000gf.
Theme of the present invention also be mainly with the structurized continuous liquid fat of polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of the weight average molecular weight of at least a 500-500000 of having of q.s in cosmetic composition or be used for the purposes of using and/or a large amount of sedimentary physiology acceptable composition being provided easy to manufacture, this polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxalyl amido, guanidine and biguanide group and their conjugate at least two,
This polymer at room temperature is a solid, under 25-250 ℃ temperature, dissolves in the liquid aliphatic phase,
This liquid aliphatic phase optional part or all form, and comprise a kind of fusion enthalpy that can reduce this polymer at least and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature by ethereal oil with the flash-point that is equal to or higher than 40 ℃.
Theme of the present invention also is that the polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) of weight average molecular weight of at least a 500-500000 of having of q.s is used for the purposes with the said compositions of the solid form structureization of self supporting type in cosmetic composition or in making the physiology acceptable composition; Said compositions contains liquid fat phase and at least a fusion enthalpy and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature that can reduce this polymer continuously, and this polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxalyl amido, guanidine and biguanide group and their conjugate at least two,
This polymer at room temperature is a solid, under 25-250 ℃ temperature, dissolves in the liquid aliphatic phase.
Theme of the present invention also be mainly with the conjugate of the structurized continuous liquid fat of polymer (homopolymer or the copolymer) phase of the weight average molecular weight of at least a 500-500000 of having of q.s in cosmetic composition or in making the physiology acceptable composition as the using and/or the optional purposes that improves the sedimental glossy agent of its gloss and said compositions of convenient said compositions, said polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxalyl amido, guanidine and biguanide group and their conjugate at least two,
This polymer at room temperature is a solid, under 25-250 ℃ temperature, dissolves in the liquid aliphatic phase,
This liquid aliphatic phase optional part or all form, and comprise a kind of fusion enthalpy that can reduce this polymer at least and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature by ethereal oil with the flash-point that is equal to or higher than 40 ℃.
The present invention relates to the purposes of the structurized continuous liquid fat of structuring polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) agent of the deposition of the said compositions of conduct increase in cosmetic composition or in making the physiology acceptable composition of the weight average molecular weight of the optional at least a 500-500000 of having with q.s in addition, and said polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxalyl amido, guanidine and biguanide group and their conjugate at least two,
This polymer at room temperature is a solid, under 25-250 ℃ temperature, dissolves in the liquid aliphatic phase,
This liquid aliphatic phase optional part or all form by ethereal oil, and comprise a kind of fusion enthalpy and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature that can reduce this polymer at least.
According to the advantageous feature of these purposes, said composition has 20-2000gf, preferred 20-900gf and the hardness that is more preferably 20-600gf.
The invention still further relates to the cosmetic method of using of the make-up composition that promotes to contain the liquid aliphatic phase; Comprise that this polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups with the said fatty phase of polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) structuring of the weight average molecular weight of at least a 500-500000 of having of q.s:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxalyl amido, guanidine and biguanide group and their conjugate at least two,
This polymer at room temperature is a solid, under 25-250 ℃ temperature, dissolves in the liquid aliphatic phase,
And at least a fusion enthalpy that can reduce this polymer and the chemical compound that possibly also reduce melt temperature joined in the said composition.
The invention still further relates to the cosmetic method of the deposition that is used to increase the make-up composition that contains the liquid aliphatic phase; Comprise that this polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups with the said fatty phase of polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) structuring of the weight average molecular weight of at least a 500-500000 of having of q.s:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxalyl amido, guanidine and biguanide group and their conjugate at least two,
This polymer at room temperature is a solid, under 25-250 ℃ temperature, dissolves in the liquid aliphatic phase,
And at least a fusion enthalpy that can reduce this polymer and the chemical compound that possibly also reduce melt temperature joined in the said composition.
The fusion enthalpy that can reduce polymer that the present invention relates to q.s at last and the chemical compound that possibly also reduce melt temperature are in the structurized continuous liquid fat of polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) cosmetic composition or the purposes in the physiology acceptable composition mutually that comprises with the weight average molecular weight of at least a 500-500000 of having; Be used to promote the deposition of using and increase said compositions of said compositions, this polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxalyl amido, guanidine and biguanide group and their conjugate at least two,
This polymer at room temperature is a solid, under 25-250 ℃ temperature, dissolves in the liquid aliphatic phase.
Of the present invention open in detail
Providing as an example, do not specifying the present invention in the following examples with the cosmetic formulation of restriction.Amount provides as quality %.Chemical compound mainly provides by CTFA (" international cosmetic composition dictionary ") title.
Embodiment 1 (contrast)
In not abideing by present embodiment of the present invention, only prepare lip and face is used cosmetic formulation by having as the silicone polyamide of structural agent with as the silicone of the phenylating silicone of oil.
Said preparation is painted then, casting in jar.
Below provided the composition of prepared preparation:
Figure BSA00000645511400471
* DP: the degree of polymerization
Silicone polymer mixes with the oil of a part 110 ℃ of following fusions, so that obtain liquid mixture.Simultaneously, pigment grinds in the oil of remainder.At last, the grinding product of pigment coloring mixes under 110 ℃ with oil+gelatinizing agent mixture.
At the deposit that is obtained by bar on hand is trickle in uneven.
As if in a word, the preparation that in this comparative example, prepares is hard, during using (very difficulty), deposited only few color.
Embodiment 2
In present embodiment according to the present invention, preparation is formed and the similar cosmetic formulation of claim 1, just with the melt temperature of the reduction polymer of 20 quality % according to chemical compound of the present invention, promptly octyldodecanol joins in the preparation.
Below provided the composition of prepared preparation:
Figure BSA00000645511400472
* DP: the degree of polymerization
Silicone polymer mixes with the silicone oil and the octyldodecanol of a part 110 ℃ of following fusions, so that obtain liquid mixture.Simultaneously, pigment grinds in the oil of remainder.At last, the grinding product of pigment coloring mixes under 110 ℃ with oil+gelatinizing agent mixture.
The 12.7mm bar outward appearance at room temperature that after the demoulding, obtains be smoothly, all even glossiness.
The gained deposit that under the condition identical with embodiment 1, prepares is greater than the deposit of embodiment 1.
This deposit is glossiness.
In a word, through octyldodecanol is provided, preparation according to the present invention is used easily, and deposit has more intensive color, and this has for example made things convenient for the beauty treatment of lip.And, found product and sedimental glossy improvement.
List of references
[1]EP-A-1068856
[2]WO-A-01/97758
[3]US-A-5874069
[4]US-A-5919441
[5]US-A-6051216
[6]WO-A-02/17870
[7]WO-A-02/17871
[8]EP-A-1177784
[9]US-A-5412004
[10]EP-A-1048686
[11]US-A-5981680
[12]WO-A-99/06473
[13]US-A-6353076

Claims (50)

1. make-up cosmetic composition, it comprises:
With at least a continuous fatty phase of the structurized liquid of structuring polymer with weight average molecular weight of 500-500000, said polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-at least two, be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxamides, guanidine and biguanide base and their conjugate,
-this polymer at room temperature be solid with solvable in mutually under 25-250 ℃ the temperature at liquid aliphatic,
Said liquid aliphatic comprises at least a chemical compound that can reduce the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer mutually,
Said compositions contain at least a pigment and
The liquid aliphatic phase, structuring polymer with can reduce structuring polymer fusion enthalpy compound formation the physiology acceptable medium,
Wherein, said structuring polymer is the polymer of poly organo siloxane;
The said chemical compound of the fusion enthalpy reduction of structuring polymer that can cause is selected from linearity or the branched aliphatic monohydric alcohol with 12-26 carbon atom;
Said liquid aliphatic comprises mutually and at room temperature is the linearity of liquid, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane; Contain that side is hung and/or at the polydimethylsiloxane of terminal alkyl, alkoxyl or phenyl of silicone chains, these groups contain 2-24 carbon atom separately; Or phenylating polysiloxanes;
Wherein said structuring polymer is the polymer that comprises at least one structure division of general formula (III):
Wherein:
1) R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Be selected from CH 3, C 2H 5, n-C 3H 7Or isopropyl,
2) radicals X is the linearity or the sub-branched alkyl chain of 1-20 carbon atom;
3) Y is linear C 1-C 10Alkylidene;
5) n is the integer of 1-100, and m is the integer of 10-100,
Wherein this polymer accounts for the 0.5-80% of the gross weight of compositions,
The fusion enthalpy that wherein can reduce structuring polymer is 5-25wt% with the content that possibly reduce these one or more chemical compounds of melt temperature,
Wherein liquid aliphatic accounts for the 5-99% of the gross weight of compositions mutually.
2. according to the compositions of claim 1, wherein liquid aliphatic comprises at least a ethereal oil mutually, and this ethereal oil is selected from Fancol ID, 2-Methylpentadecane, C 8-C 16Isoparaffin, neopentanoic acid isohesyl ester and neopentanoic acid isodecyl ester.
3. according to the compositions of claim 1, wherein liquid aliphatic comprises at least a ethereal oil mutually, and this ethereal oil is selected from following compounds: Fancol ID, and octyl group is gathered trimethicone; Hexyl gathers trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane D5, octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane D4; Ten diformazan basic rings, six siloxanes D6, seven Methyl Octyl trisiloxanes, decamethyl tetrasiloxane; Ten dimethyl, five siloxanes, the polydimethylsiloxane of 1.5cSt (25 ℃), the polydimethylsiloxane of 2cSt (25 ℃); The polydimethylsiloxane of 3cSt (25 ℃), the polydimethylsiloxane of 5cSt (25 ℃) and their mixture.
4. according to each the compositions of claim 2-3, wherein liquid aliphatic contains the silicone oil of 30wt% at least mutually.
5. according to each compositions of claim 4, wherein liquid aliphatic contains the silicone oil of 40wt% at least mutually.
6. according to the compositions of claim 1, wherein ethereal oil accounts for the 3-89.4% of composition total weight.
7. according to the compositions of claim 6, wherein ethereal oil accounts for the 5-60% of composition total weight.
8. according to the compositions of claim 6, wherein ethereal oil accounts for the 5-10% of composition total weight.
9. according to the compositions of claim 1, wherein n is the integer of 2-200.
10. according to the compositions of claim 1, wherein this polymer comprises at least one structure division of general formula (IV):
Figure FSA00000645511300031
R wherein 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, X, Y, m and n such as in claim 1 definition.
11. according to each the compositions of claim 1-3, wherein this structuring polymer comprises at least one structure division of following formula:
Figure FSA00000645511300032
X wherein 1And X 2Be identical or different, have the implication that in claim 1, provides for X, n, Y and T such as in claim 1 definition, R 11-R 18Be the R that is selected from claim 1 1-R 4Group in the identical group, m 1And m 2Be the numerical value of 1-1000, and p is the integer of 2-500.
12. according to the compositions of claim 11, wherein:
-p is 1-25,
-R 11-R 18Be methyl,
-T is corresponding to one of following structural:
Figure FSA00000645511300041
R wherein 19Be hydrogen atom or be selected from for R 1-R 4Group in the group of definition, and R 20, R 21And R 22Be linearity or sub-branched alkyl independently,
-m 1And m 2Be 15-500,
-X 1And X 2Expression-(CH 2) 10-and
-Y representes-CH 2-.
13. according to the compositions of claim 12, wherein:
-T is corresponding to following formula:
Figure FSA00000645511300042
14. according to the compositions of claim 13, wherein R 20, R 21And R 22Expression-CH 2-CH 2-.
15. according to each the compositions of claim 1-3, wherein this structuring polymer comprises at least one structure division corresponding to following formula:
Figure FSA00000645511300051
R wherein 1, R 2, R 3, R 4, the definition that provides of X, Y, m and n such as above general formula (I) for claim 1, and U represent-O-or-NH-.
16. according to each the compositions of claim 1-3, wherein this structuring polymer comprises at least one structure division of following formula:
Figure FSA00000645511300052
R wherein 1, R 2, R 3, m 1And m 2Have the implication that above general formula for claim 1 (I) provides,
-U representes O or NH,
-R 23The optional one or more heteroatomic C that is selected among O and the N that comprises of expression 1-C 40Alkylidene, or phenylene and
-R 24Be selected from linearity, branching or ring-type, saturated or unsaturated C 1-C 50Alkyl, and optional by 1-3 C 1-C 3The substituted phenyl of alkyl.
17. according to each the compositions of claim 1-3, the polymer that wherein in architectural system, uses comprises at least one structure division of following formula:
Figure FSA00000645511300061
X wherein 1And X 2Be identical or different, have the implication that the X for claim 1 provides, n, Y and T such as in claim 1 definition, R 11-R 18Be the R that is selected from claim 1 1-R 4Group in the identical group, m 1And m 2Be the numerical value of 1-1000, and p is the integer of 2-500.
18. according to the compositions of claim 1, wherein this structuring system further comprises and contains the hydrocarbon-based structures part that can set up interactional two groups of hydrogen, is selected from ester, amide; Sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate; Urea, urea alkane, thiourea; The oxalyl amido, guanidine and biguanide group, and their conjugate.
19. according to the compositions of claim 18, wherein this copolymer is block copolymer or graft copolymer.
20. according to the compositions of aforementioned claim 1, wherein this polymer accounts for the 2-60% of the gross weight of compositions.
21. according to the compositions of last claim, wherein this polymer accounts for the 5-40% of the gross weight of compositions.
22. according to the compositions of aforementioned claim 1, wherein liquid aliphatic accounts for the 20-75% of the gross weight of compositions mutually.
23. according to each the compositions of aforementioned claim 1-3, the chemical compound that wherein can reduce fusion enthalpy exists with the amount that the fusion enthalpy that enough causes structuring polymer reduces.
24. according to the compositions of claim 23, wherein fusion enthalpy reduces 3J/g straight polymer at least.
25. according to the compositions of claim 24, wherein fusion enthalpy reduces 4J/g straight polymer at least.
26. according to the compositions of claim 24, wherein fusion enthalpy reduces 5-10J/g straight polymer at least.
27. according to the compositions of claim 23, the said chemical compound that wherein can reduce the fusion enthalpy (Δ H) of structuring polymer can reduce the melt temperature of structuring polymer in addition.
28. according to the compositions of claim 27, wherein this chemical compound exists with the amount that the melt temperature that enough causes structuring polymer reduces.
29. according to the compositions of claim 28, wherein the melt temperature of structuring polymer reduces at least 3 ℃.
30. according to the compositions of claim 29, wherein the melt temperature of structuring polymer reduces at least 4 ℃.
31. according to the compositions of claim 29, wherein the melt temperature of structuring polymer reduces 5-20 ℃.
32. according to the compositions of claim 23, the fusion enthalpy that wherein can reduce structuring polymer and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature be form macroscopic view go up uniform compositions and/or the fat of compositions mutually in solvable or dispersible chemical compound.
33. according to the compositions of claim 23, the said chemical compound that wherein reduces the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer has reduced the melt temperature of this structuring polymer in addition, and has formed macroscopical uniform compositions that.
34. according to each compositions of aforementioned claim 1-3, the fusion enthalpy that wherein can reduce structuring polymer and the chemical compound that possibly reduce melt temperature be selected from comprise at least one contain at least one can with the hydrocarbon and/or the silicone compounds of the right functional group of the free electron of the interaction of hydrogen bond of polymer.
35. according to the compositions of claim 34, wherein said hydrocarbon and/or silicone compounds comprise that at least one is selected from hydroxyl, carboxyl, amino, primary, the second month in a season and tertiary amine, urea and urea alkane, the functional group in ether and the ester functional group.
36. according to the compositions of claim 1, wherein this chemical compound is an octyldodecanol.
37. according to the compositions of claim 1, the fusion enthalpy that wherein can reduce structuring polymer is 10-20wt% with the content that possibly reduce these one or more chemical compounds of melt temperature.
38. according to each the compositions of aforementioned claim 1-3, wherein the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer/can reduce structuring polymer is 0.1-50 with the compound quality ratio that possibly reduce melt temperature.
39. according to the compositions of aforementioned claim 38, wherein the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer/can reduce structuring polymer is 0.5-25 with the compound quality ratio that possibly reduce melt temperature.
40. according to the compositions of aforementioned claim 38, wherein the fusion enthalpy of structuring polymer/can reduce structuring polymer is 1-15 with the compound quality ratio that possibly reduce melt temperature.
41. each the compositions according to aforementioned claim 1-3 is characterised in that it comprises at least a cosmetics or dermatosis activating agent in addition.
42., be characterised in that activating agent is selected from quintessence oil, vitamin, humidizer, sunscreen, cicatrizant and ceramide according to the compositions of claim 41.
43. each the compositions according to aforementioned claim 1-3 is characterised in that it comprises at least a additive that is selected from filler, antioxidant, antiseptic and the spice.
44. according to the compositions of claim 1, wherein this pigment is selected from zinc oxide, ferrum oxide, titanium dioxide and their mixture.
45. each the compositions according to aforementioned claim 1-3 is characterised in that it comprises dyestuff in addition.
46. each the compositions according to aforementioned claim 1-3 is characterised in that it provides with the form of clear gel or transparent bar.
47. be used for the beauty treatment structuring solid composite of skin, lip and/or body surface growth-gen; At least a pigment that contains the amount that is enough to beauty treatment skin, lip and/or body surface growth-gen is continuous mutually fatty with the liquid with the polymer architectureization of the weight average molecular weight of at least a 500-500000 of having, and said polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-at least two, be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxamides, guanidine and biguanide base and their conjugate,
-this polymer at room temperature be solid with solvable in mutually under 25-250 ℃ the temperature at liquid aliphatic,
Said liquid aliphatic comprise mutually at least a fusion enthalpy that can reduce structuring polymer chemical compound and
The liquid aliphatic phase, structuring polymer with can reduce structuring polymer fusion enthalpy compound formation the physiology acceptable medium,
Wherein, said structuring polymer is the polymer of poly organo siloxane;
The said chemical compound of the fusion enthalpy reduction of structuring polymer that can cause is selected from linearity or the branched aliphatic monohydric alcohol with 12-26 carbon atom;
Said liquid aliphatic comprises mutually and at room temperature is the linearity of liquid, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane; Contain that side is hung and/or at the polydimethylsiloxane of terminal alkyl, alkoxyl or phenyl of silicone chains, these groups contain 2-24 carbon atom separately; Or phenylating polysiloxanes;
Wherein said structuring polymer is the polymer that comprises at least one structure division of general formula (III):
Figure FSA00000645511300091
Wherein:
1) R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Be selected from CH 3, C 2H 5, n-C 3H 7Or isopropyl,
2) radicals X is the linearity or the sub-branched alkyl chain of 1-20 carbon atom;
3) Y is linear C 1-C 10Alkylidene;
5) n is the integer of 1-100, and m is the integer of 10-100,
Wherein this polymer accounts for the 0.5-80% of the gross weight of compositions,
The fusion enthalpy that wherein can reduce structuring polymer is 5-25wt% with the content that possibly reduce these one or more chemical compounds of melt temperature,
Wherein liquid aliphatic accounts for the 5-99% of the gross weight of compositions mutually.
48. each the compositions according to claim 1-3 is characterised in that it with mascara, eyeliner, and foundation cream, lip pomade, rouge, the body cosmetics, eye shadow cream or face powder, or cover up the form that applies some make up and provide.
49. the make-up and beauty method of human keratin material comprises each the make-up composition according to aforementioned claim is applied to keratin material.
50. the fusion enthalpy that can reduce polymer of q.s and the chemical compound that possibly also reduce melt temperature comprise pigment with the purposes in the continuous liquid fat cosmetic composition mutually of the polymer architectureization of the weight average molecular weight of at least a 500-500000 of having; Be used to promote the sedimentary amount and/or the gloss of using and increase said compositions of said compositions, said polymer contains at least one structure division that comprises following groups:
-at least one polyorganosiloxane group, by in the chain of this structure division or the 1-1000 of grafting form organosiloxane unit formed and
Can set up the interactional group of hydrogen for-at least two, be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urea alkane, thiourea, oxamides, guanidine and biguanide base and their conjugate,
-this polymer at room temperature be solid with solvable in mutually under 25-250 ℃ the temperature at liquid aliphatic,
Said liquid aliphatic comprise mutually at least a fusion enthalpy that can reduce structuring polymer chemical compound and
The liquid aliphatic phase, structuring polymer with can reduce structuring polymer fusion enthalpy compound formation the physiology acceptable medium,
Wherein, said structuring polymer is the polymer of poly organo siloxane;
The said chemical compound of the fusion enthalpy reduction of structuring polymer that can cause is selected from linearity or the branched aliphatic monohydric alcohol with 12-26 carbon atom;
Said liquid aliphatic comprises mutually and at room temperature is the linearity of liquid, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane; Contain that side is hung and/or at the polydimethylsiloxane of terminal alkyl, alkoxyl or phenyl of silicone chains, these groups contain 2-24 carbon atom separately; Or phenylating polysiloxanes;
Wherein said structuring polymer is the polymer that comprises at least one structure division of general formula (III):
Figure FSA00000645511300101
Wherein:
1) R 1, R 2, R 3And R 4Be selected from CH 3, C 2H 5, n-C 3H 7Or isopropyl,
2) radicals X is the linearity or the sub-branched alkyl chain of 1-20 carbon atom;
3) Y is linear C 1-C 10Alkylidene;
5) n is the integer of 1-100, and m is the integer of 10-100,
Wherein this polymer accounts for the 0.5-80% of the gross weight of compositions,
The fusion enthalpy that wherein can reduce structuring polymer is 5-25wt% with the content that possibly reduce these one or more chemical compounds of melt temperature,
Wherein liquid aliphatic accounts for the 5-99% of the gross weight of compositions mutually.
CN2011104429099A 2002-12-17 2003-12-08 Nursing and / or make-up cosmetic composition structured with silicone polymer Pending CN102512340A (en)

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US20020048557A1 (en) * 2000-08-31 2002-04-25 Heng Cai Antiperspirants and deodorants with low white residue on skin and fabric
US20020051758A1 (en) * 2000-08-31 2002-05-02 Heng Cai Clear antiperspirants and deodorants made with siloxane-based polyamides

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