FR2845594A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition useful for care and treatment of the skin comprises Spanish juniper oil and rosemary, sandalwood and/or helichrysum oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises Spanish juniper oil (oil of cade) and rosemary, sandalwood and/or helichrysum oil.

Description

COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION BASE

  ESSENTIAL OILS USEFUL FOR SKIN CARE, MORE

PARTICULARLY IN MAN

  The present invention relates to new cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions based on essential oils of plants and more particularly rosemary, Cade and Sandal, remarkable for their beneficial effects on the skin. These compositions are particularly useful for resolving skin problems

at men's.

  The normal horny layer of an epidermis is a cell tessellation whose cohesion is ensured by the intercornocytic cementum. The quality of the epidermis depends on the maintenance of the quality of this cementum. In addition, the good

  balance of the level of hydration of the skin allows to participate in this cohesion. Likewise, the amount of sebum, a function of the activity of the enzyme reductase, must be at an optimum level, yet in men the level of sebum is often too great.

  Oily or hyperseborrheal skin is characterized by shiny skin, sometimes oily in appearance, thick, with dilated pilosebaceous pores. Sebaceous hypersecretion is most often linked to hyperandrogenism due either to androgen production or to hyperproduction in the body.

  level of the sebaceous gland from the androgens.

  Another characteristic of oily or hyperseborrhoeic skin is the too rapid renewal of the cells of the stratum corneum, resulting in thickened skin in the first youth then leading to a collagen collapse and the appearance of

early and deep wrinkles.

  Increasing the amount of sebum results in an increase in the amount of microorganisms in general and pathogens in particular. These grow anaerobically in the extra fatty phase provided by the sebum. Thus, an anaerobic resident bacterium, Propioni bacterium acnes, proliferates in this environment rich in sebum and follicular cells. This microbial proliferation often results in skin tissue irritation, which is largely due to the release of fatty acids by bacterial lipases. It is therefore important to propose a composition that makes it possible both to moisturize the epidermis, to maintain cellular cohesion, to regulate the rate of

  sebum and reduce tissue irritation.

  It is proposed in the prior art many cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions for treating male skin. They generally contain: humectant active agents, such as polyols and cutaneous NMF factors such as urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, amino acids, sugars; keratolytic agents such as hydroxylated alpha acids, urea, salicylic acid; antiseptics such as triclosan, phenoxyethanol, hexamidine isethionate, ketoconazole derivatives, octopirox, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid; Hydrophobic film-formers, which slow down the transcutaneous loss of water, are also common

used in these compositions.

  All of these compositions provide a partial surface treatment which contributes to the maintenance of epidermal equilibrium, but they have limited effects over time. In addition, most of the above ingredients are from the chemical industry, and no products are made solely from natural essential oils. There is therefore still a need for products that provide a more thorough treatment in depth to cleanse the skin and regulate the amount of microorganisms in general and pathogens in particular. Following extensive research conducted in the field of products for the specific correction of male problems, the Applicant has shown that a combination of essential oils (HE) particular can correct or even solve the problems of skins 10 in humans mentioned above. This goal is achieved according to

  the invention by means of a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a cade essential oil (HE) and at least one other essential oil chosen from the group comprising the essential oils of rosemary, sandalwood and helichrysum.

  A preferred composition according to the invention comprises

  essential oils of cade, rosemary and sandalwood.

  This preferred composition may also contain an oil

essential of Helichrysum.

  The combination of essential oils of the compositions of the invention make it possible to obtain, by a synergistic effect, cosmetic or dermatological compositions having excellent moisturizing properties,

  seborrégulatrices, antiseptics and soothing.

  In addition, these compositions are remarkable in that they make it possible to obtain the above effects in a sustainable manner. Thus, the use of the compositions according to the invention makes it possible to perform a deep treatment which cleanses and restores the lipid barrier of the epidermis, promotes hydration activity which is prolonged over time, corrects the problems of oily skin and limits the proliferation of microorganisms on the surface of the epidermis. The essential oil of Cade is present between 0.006% and 6%, preferably between 0.06% and 3% and most preferably between 0.01% and 1% by weight of the

composition of the invention.

  The essential oil of rosemary is present between 0.0001% and 5%, preferably between 0.005% and 0.75% and still more preferably between 0.01% and 0.15%. in

weight of the composition.

  The essential oil of Sandalwood is present between 0.0001% and 5%, preferably between 0.005% and 0.75% and most preferably between 0.01% and 0.15% by weight of

the composition.

  The essential oil of Helichrysum can be present between 0.0001% and 10%, preferably between 0.001% and 0.5% and most preferably between 0.01% and 0.1%.

  by weight of the composition of the invention.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the composition of the invention, its total essential oil content is between 0.005% and 30% and

  preferably between 0.01% and 10% by weight of the composition.

  The essential oil of cade can be obtained by hydrodistillation or with the aid of an extraction fluid preferably in the supercritical or near state. The same method of extraction concerns the other essential oils of the group comprising the essential oils of rosemary, sandalwood or helichrysum. The extraction of the essential oil for this type of plant is conventionally carried out using a steam generator where the vaporized fluid is

  led by a tubing in the bottom of an extraction chamber in which the plants are enclosed.

  This installation is connected to a regulated pressure maintenance device. The extraction fluids are conducted in a cooling coil. The final separation of the extraction fluids and the components of the essential oils is carried out at atmospheric pressure by difference in density. This technique has often been

  described in the specialized literature.

  The compositions according to the invention may also comprise other active agents generally used in cosmetics or dermatology, for example moisturizing, restructuring, seborrégulateurs, anti-inflammatories and antiseptics of the skin. These assets, if present, can represent from 1 to 20% of

  preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of the composition.

  The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used, and well known to those skilled in the art, in the cosmetic or dermatological fields to be applied to the skin, for example, oil emulsions. in Water (O / W) or Water in Oil (W / O), lotions, shampoos, sprays, shower gels or gels, milks, masks, creams, etc. without any particular pharmaceutical restriction other than those of the compatibility with the essential oils at the base of the composition. Thus, the compositions of the invention may also contain all the constituents conventionally used in these presentations as formulating agents, surfactants, preserving agents, solubilizing agents, gelling agents, non-vegetable fatty additives, propylene glycol, sorbitol, glycerol, triethanolamine, perfume bases, water in

sufficient amount for 100.

  Thus, the subject of the invention is also a method of cosmetic care consisting in applying to the skin a

  adequate amount of a previously defined composition.

  As already indicated, the compositions according to the invention are useful for the care of the skin, in particular that of men. They allow a long-lasting and deep skin care including sanitizing and restoring the lipid barrier of the epidermis, promoting a moisturizing activity extended over time, correcting the problems of oily skin, reducing sebum and by limiting the proliferation of microorganisms on the surface of the epidermis. The invention therefore also relates to the use of essential oil of cade for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition useful for the care and treatment of the skin, said oil being associated in said composition with at least one other oil. essential oil selected from the group consisting of Rosemary, Sandalwood and Helichrysum essential oils. These

  compositions are those described above.

  In particular, the invention is concerned with the cosmetic use of a combination of essential oils as defined above for soothing, sanitizing, moisturizing and restructuring the skin.

especially in men.

  Other features and benefits of the

  The present invention will become apparent on reading the nonlimiting examples which follow.

Example 1: Moisturizing Cream.

  Sucrose Stearate 0.5 to 6% Sucrose Distearate 0.5 to 6% Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 3 to 15% Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride 3 to 15% HE Cade 0.10 to 0.30% HE Rosemary 0.05 to 0.07% HE Helichrysum 0.03 to 0.06% HE Sandalwood 0.05 to 0.07% Tocopheryl acetate Urea Glycerin Citric acid Trisodium citrate Sodium hyaluronate Potassium sorbate Sclerotium gum Xanthan gum 10 Eau Parfum Conservatives

  0.05 to 1% 0.5 to 2% 0.5 to 3% 0.1 to 0.5% 0.5 to 1.5% 0.5 to 3% 0.2 to 0.5% 0, 1 to 0.5% 0.1 to 0.5% qsp.100% qs.

qs.

  Example 2: Regenerating cream, seborrégégatrice.

  Ceramide 3 0.1% Palmitate vitamin A 0.15% Steareth-20 0.2% Methyl paraben 0.25% Water qsp. 100% HE Cade 0.25% HE Rosemary 0.10% HE Sandalwood 0.10% Steareth-2 1 to 3% Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol 2 to 4% Myristyl Myristate 2 to 4% Isopropyl Myristate 4% Glycerin 1% Dimethicone 0.5% Lanolin Alcohols 0.5% Propyl Paraben 0.25%

Example 3 Anti-radical cream.

  Sorbitan oleate Polysorbate 80 Wheat germ oil 3.5%

2-4%

  3% Sweet Almond Oil Isopropyl Myristate Polyacrylamide & C14-13 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 Palmitate Vitamin A Tocopherol PCANa Sodium Hyaluronate Water Preservatives HE Cade HE Rosemary HE Helichrysum HE Sandalwood% 12% 2 to 3 , 5% 0.1% 0.05% 0.5% 0.1% qs 100% qs 0.20% 0.03% 0.01% 0.02%

Example 4: Shampoo.

  Sodium lauroyl oat aminoacids 5.00% Sodium coceth sulfate / PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate17.00% Benzyl alcohol 0.20% Dimethicone copolyol 2.00% Water qs 100% Cade HE 0.05% HE Rosemary 0.02% Helichrysum HE 0.01% HE Sandalwood 0.02% Acrylates copolymer 3% Preservatives qsp NaOH qsp pH = 7.2

  Example 5: Bath oil with essential oils.

  Lavender essential oil 18.00% HE Cade 0.10% HE Rosemary 0.05% HE Helichrysum 0.02% HE Sandalwood 0.05% Decyl glucoside 36.00% Glycerin 43.00% Preservative 0, 50% plankton extract 0.10% Example 6 Property of the compositions according to the invention. The following tests were carried out with standard compositions according to the invention comprising a complex

  of essential oils consisting of about 50 to 60% of essential oil of cade and 30 to 40% of at least one of the essential oils of rosemary, sandalwood and helichysis, in several dilutions (0 , 0.1%, 0.10%, 0.20% and 1.00%).

  1) Anti-radical power of the complex of essential oils. The hydroxyl radical is a very reactive molecule, the production of which is activated by the various stresses undergone by the skin (pollution, V, variations in

  temperature, etc.). It is responsible for numerous cell damage including membrane degradation by lipid peroxidation.

  The objective of the present study was to assess the antiradical potency of the essential oil composition according to the present invention by the in vitro method of conjugated dienes. This method makes it possible to test the protective action of the product on liposomes (membrane analogues) subjected to attack by hydroxyl radicals (OH-). The action of free radicals on the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the membranes is a peroxidation which leads to the formation of absorbent conjugated dienes at 233 nm. Antioxidant activity is therefore assayed by their ability to prevent peroxidation of liposome-containing graspolyunsaturated acids (in vitro model closest to in vivo reality). This peroxidation is characterized by an absorption peak at 233 nm. The method and the protocol used are for example described in the literature. At the end of the test, it appears that the composition of essential oils according to the present invention inhibits the lipid peroxidation of 85% on average compared to an unprotected control. This excellent result is predictive of an anti-inflammatory effect particularly suitable for the treatment of oily-looking male skins. This anti-radical activity is essential in the fight against accelerated aging caused by turnover

  Too important skins fat or seborrheic. 2) Inhibition of the 5 a. reductase.

  In addition, it has also been found that the composition of essential oils according to the invention has an inhibitory effect vis-à-vis the 5 ax reductase. 5α-Reductase is an enzyme that catalyzes the hydroxylation of testosterone to the dihydrotestosterone, a metabolite exhibiting significant androgenic activity and regulating the metabolism of the testosterone.

sebaceous gland.

  The purpose was to verify that the composition of essential oils according to the invention also makes it possible to

  benefit from an inhibitory effect vis-à-vis the bio transformation of testosterone. The test was conducted on human fibroblasts and the reference product is finasteride, active ingredient known tablets CHIBRO30 PROSCAR laboratories MERCK SHAR & DOHME CHIBRET.

  The testosterone used is partly marked.

  The cells were preincubated in the culture media in the presence of the reference product or the essential oil composition according to the invention. After addition of the substrate, ie testosterone, at the concentration of 1.10 6M including 4.10-8M radiolabeled, the cells are incubated for one day. Control cultures are carried out in parallel and the tests are carried out in triplicate. After incubation, the cells are sonicated and some of the homogenates are stored for the determination of cellular proteins. The homogenates are extracted with dichloromethane and after evaporation, the dry residues are taken up in methanol. The deposits are carried out on silica plates, the migration solvent is a mixture of dichloromethane / ether. The plates with radiolabeled elements are read with a radioactivity analyzer and the standard elements are treated with dilute sulfuric acid and heated to 1000 C. The assay of the cellular proteins is carried out by the method of BRADFORD. The results are expressed in ng of protein per culture well. The results obtained show a 57% improvement over the untreated control by

the compositions according to the invention.

  FIG. 1 in the appendix reports the results of this 5 alpha reductase inhibition test and shows that the compositions according to the invention do indeed have an activity on 5 alpha reductase and are therefore useful in the treatment.

oily or acne-like skin.

3) Bacteriostatic effect.

  The Applicant has also determined the bacteriostatic potential of the composition of essential oils of the invention. Three strains were used in the aromatogram technique Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas fluorescens, Escherichia coli. The strains are diluted in physiological saline. For each strain, six petri dishes are inoculated with 1 ml of daughter solution. To obtain a daughter solution from the stock solution, 0.1 ml is removed and placed in 9.9 ml of casein-soy broth. A 10-2 solution was thus obtained. To obtain a 10-4 solution, 0.1 ml of 10-2 solution is used which is introduced into a broth in the same manner as before. It is possible to obtain 10-2, 10-4, 10-6, 10-8, 10-10 solutions. The stock solution is poured at a rate of one ml into each petri dish. Casein-soy is poured on the boxes. Sterile discs impregnated with 0.01 ml of the essential oil composition are deposited on the seeded medium. Each petri dish is placed in an oven at 300 ° C. After 24 hours, the reading is carried out. The inhibition diameter is measured around each disk. The bactericidal effect is noted from 0 to 4 depending on the zone of inhibition. As shown by the results in Table 2 below, the bacteriostatic effect of the essential oils is greatly increased in a suitable synergistic mixture.

Table 1

  Oil Staphylococcus Pseudomonas Echerichia essential aureus Fluoreces Coli Rosemary ... 0 ++ Cade + O + Sandal .... + ++ Helichrysum + 0 0

Composition ++++ ++ ...

of the invention

Claims (10)

  1) Cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises an essential oil of cade and at least one other essential oil chosen from the group comprising the essential oils of   Rosemary, Sandalwood and Helichrysum.   2) Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises essential oils of cade, rosemary and sandalwood.   3) Composition according to claim 2,   characterized in that it further comprises an essential oil of Helichrysum.   4) Composition according to any one of   preceding claims, characterized in that the essential oil of Cade is present between 0.006% and 6%, preferably between 0.06% and 3% and most preferably   between 0.01% and 1% by weight of the composition.   ) Composition according to any one of   preceding claims, characterized in that the essential oil of rosemary is present between 0.0001% and 5%,   preferably between 0.005% and 0.75% and most preferably between 0.01% and 0.15%. in weight of the composition.   6) Composition according to any one of   preceding claims, characterized in that the essential oil of Sandalwood is present between 0.0001% and 5%, preferably between 0.005% and 0.75% and most preferably between 0.01% and 0.15% by weight of the composition.   7) Composition according to any one of   preceding claims, characterized in that the essential oil of Helichrysum is present between 0.0001% and 5%, preferably between 0.001% and 0.5% and all   preferably between 0.01% and 0.1% by weight of the composition.   8) Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that its   total content of essential oils represents between 0.005% and 30% and preferably between 0.01% and 10% by weight of the composition.   9) Composition according to any one of   preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one active agent selected from hydrating, restructuring, seborrégulateurs, anti-inflammatory and antiseptic agents of the skin. 20   ) Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that these assets represent from 1 to 20%   and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of the composition.   11) Cosmetic care method consisting of   applying to the skin an adequate amount of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to   10. 12) Use of cade essential oil for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition useful for the care and treatment of the skin, such as   defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.   13) Cosmetic use of an association   of essential oils as defined in a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for soothing, sanitizing, moisturizing and restructuring the skin more especially in men.