FR2844709A1 - Plastic, thixotropic composition, preferably for make-up or care of keratin fibers, especially mascara, containing film-forming polymer or wax and rigid, rectilinear fibers to ensure homogeneous deposition - Google Patents

Abstract

A new plastic, thixotropic composition (A) comprises a physiologically acceptable medium containing rigid, rectilinear fibers (I) and at least one of film-forming polymers (II) and/or waxes (III).

Description

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The subject of the present invention is a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, rigid fibers and a wax, intended in particular for the cosmetic field. The subject of the invention is also a process for making up or cosmetic care of keratin materials using this composition.

The composition and process according to the invention are more particularly intended for keratin materials such as the skin, including the lips, and the integuments such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair and the nails, in particular of human beings. More specifically, the invention relates to a mascara.

The composition according to the invention can be in the form of a composition for coating the eyelashes (in particular mascara), eyebrow product, eyeliner, lip product, blush or eyeshadow, complexion, body makeup product, concealer, nail polish, skin care product.

It is known, in this technical field, to use fibers in makeup or care compositions for keratin materials to improve their cosmetic properties.

Thus, it is known from document JP-A-3 151 613 to use the fibers in mascara compositions to impart an elongation and thickening effect to the eyelashes. Documents JP-A-57 158 714 and JP-A-9 263 518 describe mascara compositions comprising fibers and polymers of acrylic type in aqueous dispersion.

Likewise, documents JP-A-6 9340 and JP-A-7 179 323 describe mascara compositions comprising fibers, in particular nylon fibers, and film-forming polymers in aqueous dispersion.

Document FR-A-2 817 477 describes cosmetic compositions or formulations comprising fibers based on a synthetic or artificial polymer, such as polypropylene, PET, polyamide 6 and polyamide 66.

The compositions comprising fibers generally comprise a thickening agent to give the composition a consistency allowing easy application of the composition to keratin materials. However, it has been found that certain thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose do not make it possible to obtain good dispersion of the fibers in the composition: the fibers are then poorly distributed during the application of the composition to the keratin materials, the fibers are therefore oriented and distributed randomly over the keratin materials, and this results in a heterogeneous deposit detrimental to the expected good cosmetic properties. In particular, for a mascara, the poor dispersion of the fibers leads to a mediocre and inhomogeneous elongation effect.

In particular, the mascara compositions containing fibers do not allow

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 not to obtain an optimal and long-lasting elongation effect because this effect is lost quickly after application of the composition. Indeed, the fibers and are not located in the extension of the eyelashes.

The effect obtained by the mascara compositions containing fibers of the prior art is often aesthetically unacceptable, in particular in the case of supplied and / or long and / or curled eyelashes, for which an appearance of the eyelashes, known as fir Christmas, particularly unsightly.

There is therefore a need for a cosmetic composition, in particular a mascara composition which makes it possible to obtain excellent cosmetic properties, a homogeneous and precise makeup.

There is in particular a need for a mascara composition which provides perfect elongation, in perfect continuity of the eyelash, regular, non-random positioning of the fibers exactly in line with the eyelash and therefore an optimal aesthetic effect.

The composition must, moreover, adhere well to keratin fibers, for example to the eyelashes, not to form bundles and to be of easy and rapid application.

The object of the present invention is, inter alia, to meet the needs and meet the requirements mentioned above.

The inventors have discovered that by using particular fibers in a composition comprising a wax and exhibiting a thixotropic plastic behavior, a composition is obtained comprising a homogeneous dispersion of the fibers and therefore leading to a homogeneous and precise makeup of the keratin materials, and in particular of the lashes. In particular, when the composition is a mascara, the fibers applied to the eyelashes are oriented and fixed in the extension of the eyelashes, whatever the type of eyelashes. The fibers are therefore not arranged randomly, but are placed in the extension of the eyelashes.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, substantially straight rectilinear fibers and a wax, the composition having a thixotropic plastic behavior.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic method for making up and caring for keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes, comprising the application to the keratin materials (in particular the eyelashes) of a composition as defined above.

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The invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above to obtain a deposit, in particular a make-up, which is homogeneous on keratin materials.

Another subject of the invention is the use of rigid fibers, substantially rectilinear, in a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a wax, the composition having a thixotropic plastic behavior, to obtain a deposit, in particular a make-up, homogeneous on keratin materials.

The invention also relates to the use of a mascara comprising a composition as defined above, to obtain an elongation in the extension of the eyelashes and / or to mimic the extension of the eyelashes.

The subject of the invention is also the use of rigid fibers, substantially rectilinear, in a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a wax, the composition having a thixotropic plastic behavior, to obtain an elongation in the extension of the eyelashes and / or to mimic the extension of the eyelashes.

According to the invention, the composition comprises rigid fibers, substantially straight.

By "fiber" is meant an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the L / D ratio (or form factor) is chosen from the range going from 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 5 to 500, and better still from 5 to 150.

Advantageously, at least 50% by number, preferably at least 75% by number, and better still at least 90% by number of the fibers are such that the angle formed between the tangent to the longitudinal central axis of the fiber and the straight line connecting said end to the point on the longitudinal central axis of the fiber corresponding to half the length of the fiber is less than 15 and the angle formed between the tangent to the longitudinal central axis of the fiber at a point located mid-length of the fiber and the straight line connecting one of the ends to the point on the longitudinal central axis of the fiber corresponding to half of the fiber length is less than or equal to 15, preferably less than or equal to 10, more preferably less than or equal to 5, for the same fiber length ranging from 0.8 mm to 5 mm, preferably ranging from 1 mm to 4 mm, preferably ranging from 1 mm to 3 mm, and better still from 2 mm.

Advantageously, the angle, mentioned above, is measured at the two ends of the fiber and at a point located mid-length of the fiber, in other words, in this case three measurements are taken and the angles are averaged. measured is less than or equal to 15.

 In particular, the tangent, at any point of the fiber, forms an angle less than 15.

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 In the present application, the angle formed by the tangent at a point of the fiber is the angle formed between the tangent to the longitudinal central axis of the fiber at said point of the fiber and the straight line connecting the end of the fiber. closest to said point at the point on the longitudinal central axis of the fiber corresponding to half the length of the fiber.

Generally, the fibers included in the composition have the same length of fiber or a substantially identical length.

More precisely, according to the invention, when we observe under a microscope, with an objective allowing a magnification of 2.5 and with a full field vision, a medium in which the fibers are dispersed at a fiber concentration of 1% in weight, a majority of fibers, that is to say at least 50% by number of fibers, preferably at least 75% by number of fibers, and better still at least 90% by number of fibers, must satisfy the angular condition defined above. The measurement leading to the value of the angle is carried out for the same length of fibers, this length is included in the range going from 0.8 mm to 5 mm, preferably from 1 to 4 mm, preferably from 1 to 3 mm, and better by 2 mm.

The medium in which the observation is carried out is a dispersing medium ensuring good dispersion of the fibers, for example water, an aqueous gel of clay or associative polyurethane as described later. One can even make a direct observation of the composition containing the fibers. A sample of the prepared composition or dispersion is placed between slide and coverslip for observation under the microscope with an objective allowing a magnification of 2.5 and with full field vision. Full field vision allows you to see the fibers in their entirety.

In fact, the fibers included in the compositions of the invention can also be defined as being rigid fibers, in contrast to the fibers of the compositions of the prior art, which are not rigid fibers and therefore form fairly significant curvature loops when viewed under a microscope.

In other words, the fibers of the compositions of the invention, initially substantially straight, when they are placed in a dispersing medium, do not see their shape substantially modified, which results in the angular condition defined above, reflecting a shape that can be described as always, substantially straight, linear. This angle condition reflects the stiffness of the fibers which can hardly be expressed by another parameter than that chosen according to the invention for objects having a size as small as the fibers used in the compositions of the invention.

More exactly, the angle condition which the fibers of the composition of the invention must satisfy illustrates the conservation of the shape of the fibers, which remains substantially straight, due to the rigidity of the fiber.

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With the fibers of the prior art, which do not appear as straight rods and which therefore do not satisfy the condition of the angle of the fibers of the compositions of the invention, the effect of lengthening the eyelashes cannot be obtained and is therefore not optimized.

The fibers of the prior art which are flexible do not have an initially rectilinear shape and when they are placed in a dispersing medium such as a cosmetic composition, these fibers deform by forming loops, and do not provide any effect. lengthening, and give an asymmetrical appearance to the eyelash. To use a trivial comparison, the fibers according to the invention can be compared to spaghetti before cooking which are rigid, straight and retaining this shape whereas the fibers of the prior art, flexible, could be compared to cooked spaghetti which deform, curl, and cannot maintain a straight shape.

The compositions of the invention, incorporating the specific fibers described above, have excellent cosmetic properties, in particular they allow a homogeneous and precise makeup, in the case of mascaras. In particular, when the composition is applied to the eyelashes, the rigid fibers are not arranged randomly, but are placed in the extension of the eyelashes. In fact, the composition according to the invention gives a very good lengthening effect to the eyelashes, thanks to the particular fibers which it contains and which are placed perfectly, exactly, in the extension of the eyelash. The composition of the invention makes it possible, in fact, to produce a true prosthesis of the eyelash, which is completely impossible with the compositions of the prior art, containing non-rigid fibers.

The mascara compositions according to the invention ensure perfect elongation and an optimal aesthetic effect, even in the case of the eyelashes supplied and / or long and / or curled, for which particularly unsightly effects were obtained with the prior art compositions. , comprising fibers, curling, not rigid.

The mascara compositions according to the invention achieve perfect continuity of the eyelash, so that the fibers can no longer be observed with the naked eye because they are in the exact extension of the eyelash and perfectly mimic it.

These fibers can be unitary or organized, for example braided. Their shape or morphology can be arbitrary and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) depending on the specific application envisaged. Advantageously, the cross section of the fiber (section perpendicular to the axis of the direction of the length of the fiber) does not have a greater length L1 and a shorter length L2 (L2 corresponds to the thickness of the fiber) such that L1 / L2 (the L1 / L2 ratio is also called the flattening factor) is greater than or equal to 4.

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In particular, their ends are blunt and / or polished to avoid injury.

In particular, the fibers can have a length (L) ranging from 0.8 mm to 5 mm, preferably ranging from 1 mm to 4 mm and better still ranging from 1 mm to 3 mm. Their section can be included in a circle of diameter (D) ranging from 2 nm to 500 m, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 m and better still from 1 m to 50 m.

The titer of the fibers is often given in denier. Denarius is the weight in grams for 9 km of thread. Preferably, the fibers used according to the invention have a titer ranging from 0.15 to 30 denier, and better still from 0.18 to 18 denier.

Advantageously, the fibers are insoluble in water at 25 C.

The rigid fibers can be chosen from the fibers of a synthetic polymer chosen from polyesters, polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, polyolefins, polyamides, in particular non-aromatic polyamides and aromatic polyimide-amides. Advantageously, the rigid fibers are not fibers comprising several altered layers of polymers having different refractive indices.

As examples of rigid fibers, mention may be made of fibers: - of polyesters, such as those obtained by cutting son sold under the names FIBER 255-100-R11-242T SIZE 3 MM (octalobed section), FIBER 265-34-R11 -56T SIZE 3 MM (round section), FIBER COOLMAX 50-34- 591 SIZE 3 MM (tetralobed section) by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; - polyamide, such as those sold under the names TRILOBAL NYLON 0.120-1.8 DPF; TRILOBAL NYLON 0.120-18 DPF; NYLON 0. 120-6 DPF by Cellusuede products; or obtained by cutting wires sold under the name FIBER NOMEX BRAND 430 SIZE 3 MM by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; - polyimide-amide such as those sold under the name "KERMEL", "KERMEL TECH" by the company RHODIA; - poly- (p-phenylene-terephthalamide) (or aramid) sold in particular under the name Kevlar # by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; fibers with a multilayer structure comprising alternating layers of polymers chosen from polyesters, acrylic polymers, polyamides, such as those described in documents EP-A-6921217, EP-A-686858 and US-A-

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 5472798. Such fibers are sold under the names "Morphotex", Teijin Tetron Morphotex by the company TEIJIN.

Particularly preferred rigid fibers are the aromatic polymide-amide fibers.

Ces polyimides-amides aromatiques comprennent, en outre, éventuellement, un motif récurrent (motif amide ) de formule (II) : -N H-R-N H-CO-R2-CO- (II) Ces polyimides-amides aromatiques comprennent, en outre, éventuellement, un motif récurrent (motif amide ) de formule (III) :

Ces polyimides-amides aromatiques comprennent, en outre, éventuellement, un motif récurrent (motif amide ) de formule (IV) : (IV)

dans lesquelles R représente un groupe aromatique divalent, R2 représente un groupe aromatique divalent, R3 représente un groupe aromatique tétravalent, Ri représente un groupe aromatique trivalent, et M représente un métal alcalin ou alcalino-terreux. The aromatic polyimide amides used in the composition of the fibers according to the invention can be any aromatic polyimide amide, but they generally comprise a recurring unit corresponding to the following general formula (I):

These aromatic polyimide-amides further comprise, optionally, a recurring unit (amide unit) of formula (II): -N HRN H-CO-R2-CO- (II) These aromatic polyimide-amides also comprise, optionally , a recurring unit (amide unit) of formula (III):

These aromatic polyimide amides further comprise, optionally, a recurring unit (amide unit) of formula (IV): (IV)

wherein R represents a divalent aromatic group, R2 represents a divalent aromatic group, R3 represents a tetravalent aromatic group, Ri represents a trivalent aromatic group, and M represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal.

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 For example, R and R2 each independently represent a divalent group comprising at least one aromatic ring, optionally substituted, having 6 to 10 carbon atoms and / or a heterocycle of aromatic nature, optionally substituted, having 5 to 10 atoms and comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from S, N and 0; R1 represents a trivalent group comprising at least one aromatic carbon ring, optionally substituted, having 6 to 10 carbon atoms and / or a heterocycle of aromatic nature, optionally substituted, having 5 to 10 atoms and comprising one or more heteroatoms chosen from S, N and 0.

In the formula (I) cited above, Ri can be, for example, a benzene ring optionally substituted, by one or two substituent (s) among the alkyl and alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 C, the atoms of halogen, nitro group and sulfonyl group; or several benzene rings optionally substituted by one or more substituent (s) from alkyl and alkoxy groups from 1 to 10 C, halogen atoms, nitro group and sulfonyl group; for example Ri could comprise from 2 to 5 cycles, linked together by a single bond or by a divalent group, the chain of said cycles being able to be independently in meta or para.

-c- -s- -un groupe9 ; groupe il un groupe R4 0 R4 #### r NH un groupe P un groupe P4 un Said divalent group connecting said rings is chosen, for example, from: - a divalent group derived from a linear or branched alkyl group (for example an alkylidene or alkylene group) from 1 to 10 C optionally substituted, preferably on the same carbon, with one or more halogens chosen from F, CI, Br and 1 and / or by one or more hydroxyl groups, more preferably said divalent group is a divalent group derived from a perfluorinated alkyl group, for example perfluorinated alkylene; - a heteroatom chosen from 0, S;

-c- -s- -a group9; group he a group R4 0 R4 #### r NH a group P a group P4 a

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R4 ~Ji -0 groupe L où R4 est choisi parmi les groupes alkyle de 1 à 10 C tels que méthyle, éthyle, isopropyle, etc.

R4 ~ Ji -0 group L where R4 is chosen from alkyl groups of 1 to 10 C such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, etc.

R 1 can also represent a condensed polycyclic carbon group optionally substituted by one or more substituent (s) from alkyl groups and alkoxy groups from 1 to 10 C, halogen atoms, nitro group and sulfonyl group, said group polycyclic carbon group comprising for example from 2 to 5 benzene rings chosen, for example, from naphthalene, phenanthrene, coronene, perylene, phenylindane, etc.

Ri can also represent a heterocycle or a condensed heterocycle, of aromatic nature such as thiophene, pyrazine, pyridine, furan, quinoline, quinoxaline, isobenzofuran, this heterocycle being optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen from alkyl groups (for example methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, etc.) and alkoxy from 1 to 10 C, halogen atoms (F, CI, Br, 1), the nitro group and the sulfonyl group.

Among the polyimide-amides which can be used in the context of the invention, mention will be made of those in which R1 is a benzene ring, a set of two benzene rings linked together by an oxygen bridge, or a naphthalene ring.

The preferred Ri groups are:

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 The group R3 meets the same definition as the group Ri with the difference that it is a tetravalent group and not trivalent.

R and R2 which may be identical or different each represent for example a divalent benzene ring with meta or para linkage; optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen from alkyl and alkoxy groups from 1 to 10 C such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, butyl, methoxy, etc., halogen atoms, the nitro group and the sulfonyl group; or several benzene rings optionally substituted by one or more substituents chosen from alkyl and alkoxy groups from 1 to 10C, halogen atoms, nitro group, and sulfonyl group, for example R and R2 can comprise from 2 to 5 rings , linked together by a single bond or by a divalent group.

-c- c -un groupe 0 ; un groupe ; un groupe R4 o R4 # ji~ r nh un groupe P un groupe 14 un R4 - !. 1-0groupe L ; où R4 est choisi parmi les groupes alkyle de 1 à 10 C tels que méthyle, éthyle, isopropyle, etc. Said divalent group connecting the benzene rings of R or R2 is chosen for example from: - a divalent group derived from a linear or branched alkyl group (for example an alkylidene or alkylene group) of 1 to 10 C optionally substituted, preferably on the same carbon by one or more halogens chosen from F, CI, Br and # and / or by one or more hydroxyl groups, more preferably said divalent group is a divalent group derived from a perfluorinated alkyl group, for example perfluorinated alkylene; - a heteroatom chosen from 0, S;

-c- c -a group 0; a group ; a group R4 o R4 # ji ~ r nh a group P a group 14 a R4 -!. 1-0 group L; where R4 is chosen from alkyl groups of 1 to 10 C such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, etc.

 R and R2 may also each represent a divalent condensed polycyclic carbon group optionally substituted by one or more substituent (s) chosen from alkyl and alkoxy groups from 1 to 10 C, the atoms

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 halogen, the nitro group and the sulfonyl group, said polycyclic carbon group can comprise, for example, from 2 to 5 benzene rings, and it can be chosen, for example, from naphthalene, phenanthrene, coronene, perylene, phenylindane, etc.

 R2 can also represent a heterocycle or a condensed heterocycle of aromatic nature, for example thiophene, pyrazine, pyridine, furan, quinoline, quinoxaline, isobenzofuran, this heterocycle being optionally substituted by one or more substituent (s) chosen from alkyl groups , and alkoxy from 1 to 10 C, for example methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, methoxy, halogen atoms (F, CI, Br, 1), the nitro group, and the sulfonyl group.

 The preferred polyimide amides are those in which R is a diphenylmethane group and R2 is a phenyl-1,4-diyl group; or R is a diphenyl ether group, and R2 is a phenyl-1,4-diyl group.

Des exemples du groupe R3 sont les suivants : Examples of the Ri group have already been given above:

Examples of the R3 group are:

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Il est à noter que d'autres exemples de groupes Ri sont les équivalents trivalents des groupes tétravalents R3 exemplifiés ci-dessus.

It should be noted that other examples of groups R 1 are the trivalent equivalents of the tetravalent groups R 3 exemplified above.

Examples of the R and R2 groups are:

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Les polyimides-amides aromatiques formant les fibres mises en oeuvre dans la composition de l'invention peuvent être obtenus par tous les procédés connus de l'homme du métier pour la préparation des polyimides-amides aromatiques, de préférence, par réaction d'un diisocyanate avec l'anhydride triméllitique.

The aromatic polyimide amides forming the fibers used in the composition of the invention can be obtained by any process known to a person skilled in the art for the preparation of aromatic polyimide amides, preferably by reaction of a diisocyanate. with trimellitic anhydride.

Polyimide-amide threads or fibers, which can be used for the compositions of the invention, are described, for example, in the document by R. PIGEON and P. ALLARD, Applied Macromolecular Chemistry, 40/41 (1974), pages 139-158 (n 600), or even in documents US-A-3 802 841, FR-A-2 079 785, EP-A1-0 360 728, EP-A-0 549 494, in which we can refer,

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 In order to be incorporated into the composition of the invention, the filaments are then cut into fibers of the desired length, mentioned above.

et est obtenu par polycondensation du toluylène diisocyanate et de l'anhydride triméllitique. As already indicated above, the preferred aromatic polyimide-amide fibers are KERMEL TECH # fibers, in which the polyimide-amide comprises repeating units of formula:

and is obtained by polycondensation of toluylene diisocyanate and trimellitic anhydride.

The rigid fibers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.3% to 3% by weight.

The composition according to the invention has a thixotropic plastic behavior.

In the present application, the expression composition having a thixotropic plastic behavior is understood to mean a composition having the following properties: the composition has a shear thinning character, that is to say that the viscosity of the composition decreases when applied to the composition of increasing shears; - The composition after the application of an intense shear becomes fluid (in particular its viscosity decreases) but the destructuring of the composition is delayed over time. In particular, the viscosity, the consistency and the elasticity of the composition after its destructuring, in particular after a rest time of one minute after having applied the shear, are lower than those of the composition before the application of the intense shear; - The composition regenerates its initial structure in part or in whole only after a sufficient rest time. The restructuring of the composition therefore does not occur instantaneously but in a delayed manner over time. In particular, the composition, subjected to a constant shear of 1000 s-1 for one minute, regains part or all of its initial viscosity after a sufficient rest time which can be more or less long.

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A definition of thixotropic composition is indicated in particular in the work "Understanding rheology - From the circulation of blood to the setting of concrete" by P.

Cousot and J.L. Grossiord, EDP Science, 2002, pages 16 and 17.

The thixotropic plastic behavior of the composition can be evaluated according to the thixotropic character evaluation protocol described below: The thixotropic plastic behavior of the composition can be characterized by the consistency G *, the elasticity 8 and the flow threshold #vs ; these parameters are notably defined in the book "Initiation à la rheologie", G. Couarraze and J.L.

Grossiord, 2nd edition, 1991, Lavoisier-Tec Edition 1 Doc.

These parameters are determined by measurements carried out at 25 ° C. and 0.5 ° C. using the Haake 75 imposed constraint rheometer from the company Thermo Rhéo, equipped with a stainless steel mobile with plane / plane geometry, the plane having a diameter of 20 mm and an air gap (distance between the lower plane - called the stator plane - on which the composition is deposited and the upper plane - called the rotor plane) of 0.3 mm. The 2 planes are striated to limit the sliding phenomena on the walls of the planes. a) The rheological characteristics of the composition under low shear are first measured in an oscillatory regime, avoiding the destructuring of the composition (conditions considered as making it possible to evaluate the rheological characteristics of the composition at rest) by imposing on the composition a harmonic shear according to a constraint # (t) varying sinusoidally according to a pulsation # (# = 2 # N, N being the frequency of the shear applied). The composition thus sheared undergoes a stress # (t) and responds according to a deformation y (t) corresponding to microdeformations for which the consistency varies little as a function of the stress imposed.

 The constraint # (t) and the deformation y (t) defined respectively by the following relationships: # (t) = # 0 cos cot [gamma] (t) = [gamma] 0 cos (#t - #) - by being the maximum amplitude of the stress and [gamma] 0 being the maximum amplitude of the deformation.

The measurements are carried out at a frequency of 1 Hz (N = 1 Hz).

The evolution of the consistency G * (corresponding to the ratio of the stress imposed on the measured deformation) and of the elasticity # (corresponding

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 to the angle of phase shift of the applied stress with respect to the measured deformation) as a function of the stress # (t) applied.

We measure in particular the deformation of the composition for the stress zone for which the initial consistency G * i and the initial elasticity #i vary little (microdeformation zone in which the variation of the initial consistency and the initial elasticity is less than 15%) and the initial consistency G * ib is thus determined. Then the composition is destructured by applying to it an intense continuous shear i of 1000 s-1 for 60 seconds. c) After the destructuring of the composition, the restructuring of the composition is followed during the rest time by imposing on the composition a harmonic shear in oscillatory regime according to a very low stress varying sinusoidally at a frequency of 1 Hz, the stress being such that the deformation of the composition corresponds to microdeformations for which the consistency of the composition varies little (the variation in consistency is less than 15%) as a function of this applied stress.

The consistency G * of the composition is then measured as a function of the rest time; the value of the consistency is then determined after a rest time of one minute (G1 #) and after a rest time of 30 minutes (G3o *).

The recovery in thixotropy of the composition is then determined after x minutes corresponding to the ratio: 100 x (G * i - Gx *) / Gx * The recovery in thixotropy after 1 minute of rest is calculated with the value G1 * (x = 1 ); resumption of thixotropy after 30 minutes is calculated with the value G30 * (x = 30).

The thixotropic plastic behavior of the composition is notably characterized by an initial consistency Gi * ranging from 1 x 102 Pa to 1 x 105 Pa, preferably ranging from 5 x 102 Pa to 5 x 104 Pa, and better still ranging from 6 x 102 Pa at 9 x 103 Pa, measured under a sinusoidal stress at a frequency of 1 Hz.

In addition, the composition can have an initial elasticity # i which can range from 1 to 45, and better still ranges from 10 to 35.

In particular, the composition has a flow threshold #c ranging from 10 Pa to 3500 Pa, and preferably ranging from 20 Pa to 1000 Pa, which means that the composition according to the invention does not flow under its own weight but that it is necessary

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 applying a critical stress to the composition from which it causes its flow.

Preferably, the composition, after being subjected to a continuous shear of 1000 s-1 for one minute, exhibits a recovery in thixotropy,: - (i) less than or equal to 20%, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% , after 1 minute of rest - (ii) less than or equal to 90%, preferably ranging from 20% to 90%, after 30 minutes of rest.

The composition according to the invention can comprise an aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which can be the continuous phase of the composition.

The composition can comprise water and optionally a hydrophilic organic solvent (organic solvent miscible with water) such as alcohols and in particular monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n- propanol, polyols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, sorbitol, pentethylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes.

The water or the mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvent (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1% to 60% by weight.

The composition can also comprise an oily medium, or liquid fatty phase, comprising a fatty substance chosen from oils, organic solvents, and their mixtures. The fatty phase can form a continuous phase of the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention can be anhydrous.

The liquid fatty phase may in particular consist of any physiologically acceptable and in particular cosmetically acceptable oil, in particular chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based, alone or as a mixture.

The total liquid fatty phase of the composition may represent from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1 to 80% by weight.

Advantageously, the liquid fatty phase of the composition can comprise at least one volatile organic oil or solvent and / or at least one non-volatile oil.

By "volatile organic oil or solvent" is meant within the meaning of the invention any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one

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hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 10- 2 to 300 mm of Hg (1.33 Pa to 40,000 Pa) and preferably greater than 0.3 mm of Hg (30 Pa). By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil which remains on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure below
10-2 mm Hg (1.33 Pa).

These oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or Peutyls, the esters branched in C8-C16 neopentanoate iso-hexyl, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Either by the company SHELL, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

As volatile oils, volatile silicones can also be used, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity # 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m2 / s), and in particular having from 2 to 7 atoms. of silicon, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisil tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane.

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The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 65% by weight.

The composition can also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone oils and / or fluorinated oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may in particular be made of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths from C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or else the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810,812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parlam, squalane, and their mixtures; - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms to provided that R5 + R6 is # 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate , diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2undécylpentadécanol; - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; and their mixtures.

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The non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be the non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), the polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; The fluorinated oils which can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847 752.

The non-volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 0.1% to 20% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a thixotropic thickening agent in an amount sufficient to give the composition the thixotropic plastic behavior.

The thixotropic thickening agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight.

The thickening agent is chosen according to the medium of the composition: if the composition comprises an aqueous medium, a thickener of an aqueous medium is then used. If the composition comprises an oily medium, then an oily medium thickener is used. When the composition is in the form of an emulsion, the thixotropic thickening agent is preferably present in the external phase of the emulsion.

The thickening agent for an aqueous medium can be chosen from hydrophilic clays, carrageenan gum, hydrophilic fumed silica.

Hydrophilic clay is understood to mean a clay capable of swelling in water; this clay swells in water and forms, after hydration, a colloidal dispersion.

Clays are products already well known in themselves, which are described for example in the work "Mineralogy of clays, S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson", whose teaching is here included for reference.

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 The clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium cations and their mixtures.

Examples of such products include clays from the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as from the vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites family. .

These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays are used which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials such as the eyelashes and the skin.

As hydrophilic clay, there may be mentioned smectites such as saponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites, beidellite.

As hydrophilic clay, mention may be made of synthetic hectorites (also called laponites) such as the products sold by the company Laporte under the name Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, Laponite RDS (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and in particular silicates sodium, lithium and magnesium); bentonites such as the product sold under the name Bentone HC by the company RHEOX; magnesium and aluminum silicates, in particular hydrated, such as the products sold by the company Vanderbilt Company under the name Veegum ultra, Veegum HS, Veegum DGT, or alternatively calcium silicates and in particular that in synthetic form sold by the company under the name by Micro- cel C.

Hydrophilic fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. Hydrophilic silicas have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are for example sold under the names "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200", "AEROSIL 255", "AEROSIL 300", "AEROSIL 380" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL HS-5 @ ". "CAB-O-SIL EH-5 @". "CAB-O-SIL LM-130 @". "CAB-O-SIL MS-55 @". "CAB-O-SIL M-5 @" by the company Cabot.

The hydrophilic fumed silica preferably has a particle size which can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.

The thixotropic thickening agent of oily medium can be chosen from organophilic clays, hydrophobic fumed silicas, elastomeric organopolysiloxanes.

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Organophilic clays are clays modified by chemical compounds which make the clay capable of swelling in oily media.

The clay can be chosen from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and their mixtures. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amino soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and their mixtures.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by the company Rhéox, Tixogel VP by the company United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by the company Rheox, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay.

It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups can be: - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530 @" by the company Cabot.

- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720" by the company Cabot.

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 The hydrophobic fumed silica preferably has a particle size which can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.

The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are generally partially or completely crosslinked and possibly of three-dimensional structure. Included in an oily phase, they transform, according to the rate of oily phase used, from a product of spongy appearance when used in the presence of low contents in the oily phase into a homogeneous gel, in the presence of quantities of phase. higher fat.

The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes associated with a fatty phase are generally in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane associated with a fatty phase, included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil. They can be chosen in particular from the crosslinked polymers described in application EP-A-0295886.

According to this application, the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are obtained by addition and crosslinking reaction of at least: (a) an organopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups per molecule; (b) an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms linked to one silicon atom per molecule; and (c) and a platinum type catalyst.

The lower alkenyl groups are in particular the vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups.

The platinum catalyst can be, for example, chloroplatinic acid, complexes containing chloroplatinic acid and platinum supported by a suitable support.

The elastomeric organopolysiloxanes associated with a fatty phase can also be chosen from those described in patent US-A-5266321.

According to this patent, they are chosen in particular from: i) polyorganopolysiloxanes comprising units R2SiO and RSiOi, 5 and optionally units R3SiOo, 5 and / or SiO2 in which the radicals R, independently of one another, denote a hydrogen, a alkyl such as methyl, ethyl or propyl, an aryl such as phenyl or tolyl, an unsaturated aliphatic group such as vinyl and where the weight ratio of the R2SiO units to the RSiO1.5 units varies from 1/1 to 30/1;

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 ii) polyorganopolysiloxanes insoluble and swellable in silicone oil, obtained by addition of an organohydrogenopolysiloxane (1) and an organopolysiloxane (2) having unsaturated aliphatic groups such that the quantity of hydrogen or aliphatic groups unsaturated in respectively (1) and (2) is between 1 and 20% mol when the organopolysiloxane is non-cyclic and between 1 and 50% mol when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise an additional thickening agent different from the thixotropic thickening agents described above.

When the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium, it can therefore comprise an additional thickening agent for an aqueous medium. This thickening agent alone is not capable of rendering the composition thixotropic plastic (non-thixotropic thickener); it allows in particular to adjust the viscosity of the composition to obtain a homogeneous flow.

When the composition comprises an aqueous medium, the additional thickening agent is then chosen from hydrophilic thickening agents (non-thixotropic thickening agent for aqueous media).

Among the additional hydrophilic thickening agents which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: - water-soluble cellulosic thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose. Among these, there may be mentioned in particular the gums sold under the name "Cellosize QP 4400 H" by the company Amercol, - guar gum, in particular those sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE and under the name JAGUAR C by the company MEYHALL, - the quaternized guar gum sold under the name of "Jaguar C-13-S" by the Company Meyhall, - non-ionic guar gums comprising hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-Ce. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. Such guar gums are sold in particular under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 and JAGUAR HP 105 by the company MEYHALL, or under the name GALACTASOL 40H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.

- xanthan, carob, scleroglucan, gellan, rhamsan, karoya gums, - alginates, maltodextrin, starch and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its salts, - poly (metha) polymers glyceryl crylates sold under the names "Hispagel" or "Lubragel" by the companies Hispano Quimica or Guardian,

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 - polyvinylpyrrolidone, - polyvinyl alcohol, - crosslinked polymers and copolymers of acrylamide, such as those sold under the names of "PAS 5161" or "Bozepol C" by the company Hoechst, of "Sepigel 305" by the Company Seppic by the Company Allied Colloïd, or - crosslinked homopolymers of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride sold under the name of "Salcare SC95" by the Company Allied Colloïd.

- associative polymers and in particular associative polyurethanes.

The hydrophilic additional thickening agent is preferably an associative polyurethane.

Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain, both hydrophilic blocks of a nature most often polyoxyethylenated and hydrophobic blocks which can be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences.

In particular, these polymers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from C to C30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon chains can be pendant chains or chains at the end of hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The polymers can be block in the form of a triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic blocks can therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). The polymers can also be in grafts or in a star.

Preferably, the polymers are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, associative polyurethanes contain a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

By way of example, associative polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the polymer C16-OE120-C16 sold by the company HULS (under the name Sérad FX1100, molecule with urethane function and average molecular weight by weight of 1300) , OE being an oxyethylenated unit. As an associative polymer, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205 with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or

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 core Rheolate 208 or 204. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form.

The product DW 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% as dry matter in water, can also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers that may be mentioned include Sérad FX1010, Sérad FX1035 and Serad 1070 sold by the company HULS, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by RHEOX. One can also use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from the company RHOM & HAAS, or even Borchigel LW 44 from the company BORCHERS.

The polymers which can be used in the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271,380,389 (1993).

When the composition comprises an oily medium, the additional thickening agent is then chosen from lipophilic thickening agents (non-thixotropic thickening agent for oily media).

Among the additional lipophilic thickening agents which can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned: - alkylated guar gums (with C1-C6 alkyl group), such as those described in EP-A-708114; - oil-gelling polymers such as triblock or star polymers resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of at least one monomer containing an ethylenic group, such as the polymers sold under the name Kraton; - polyamide resins comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in US-A-5783657.

The additional thickening agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.

The composition according to the invention also comprises a wax.

By "wax" is meant within the meaning of the present invention, a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 105 Pa), with reversible solid / liquid state change , having a melting temperature above 30 C and better still above 55 C and up to 200 C, in particular up to 120 C.

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 By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax is recrystallized from the oils of the mixed.

The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 C per minute.

The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, are those generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields. Mention may in particular be made of beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the synthesis of FisherTropsch, fatty acid esters and glycerides concrete at 40 C and better at more than 55 C.

Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, of C8-C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes or fluorinated waxes.

A mixture of the waxes described above can be used.

The waxes present in the composition can be dispersed in the form of particles in an aqueous medium. These particles can have an average size ranging from 50 nm to 50 m, and preferably ranging from 50 nm to 10 m, and better still ranging from 50 nm to 3.5 m.

In particular, the wax can be present in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, the waxes being able to be in the form of particles of average size ranging from 1 m to 50 m, preferably ranging from 1 m to 50 m, and better ranging from 1 m to 5 m.

In another embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the wax may be present in the form of microdispersion of wax, the wax being in the form of particles whose average size is less than 1 m, and ranges in particular from 50 nm to 500 nm. Microdispersions of waxes are described in documents EP-A-557,196, EP-A-1048282.

The wax can also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 C using the texturometer sold under the

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 designation TA-XT2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0 , 3 mm. To carry out the hardness measurement, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 C. The melted wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours, then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the measured compression force divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

The wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and better from 1% to 20% by weight.

The composition according to the invention can comprise a film-forming polymer.

The film-forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved or dispersed in the form of particles in an aqueous phase of the composition or alternatively dissolved or dispersed in the form of particles in a liquid fatty phase. The composition can comprise a mixture of these polymers.

The film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight. weight, and better from 1% to 30% by weight.

In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

Use is preferably made of a film-forming polymer capable of forming a hydrophobic film, that is to say a polymer whose film has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. of less than 1% by weight.

Among the film-forming polymers which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures.

By radical film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

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The film-forming polymers of the radical type may in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

As the monomer carrying an acid group, it is possible to use a, (3-ethylenic) unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. preferably (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C1-C30 alkyl, of preferably in C1C2o, aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

Mention may be made, among alkyl (meth) acrylates, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Mention may be made, among aryl (meth) acrylates, of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

Particularly preferred esters of (meth) acrylic acid are alkyl (meth) acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

As amides of the acid monomers, mention may, for example, be made of (meth) acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C2-C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, there may be mentioned N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and Nundecylacrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or from the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters.

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 lics and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

It is possible to use any monomer known to a person skilled in the art falling within the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including the monomers modified with a silicone chain).

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

The polyurethanes can be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethanes-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpirrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and their mixtures.

The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2.2 acid -dimethylglutaric, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, acid 1,3- cyclohexanedicarboxylic, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5- acid naphthalenedicarboxylic, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. Preferably, a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is used.

As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane can be used.

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The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used. As amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

The polyester may also comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one group -SO3M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4 + or a metal ion, such as for example an ion Na +, Li +, K +, Mg2 +, Ca2 + , Cu2 +, Fe2 +, Fe3 +. It is possible in particular to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO3M.

The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing a group -SO3M as described above can be chosen, for example, from the benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxidiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, methylenediphenyl nuclei. As an example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing an -SO3M group: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7dicarboxylic acid.

It is preferred to use isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate-based copolymers, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid. Such polymers are sold, for example, under the brand name Eastman AQ # by the company Eastman Chemical Products.

The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, can be chosen from shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof.

According to a first embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer can be present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, the acrylic dispersions sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90, NEOCRYL A-1070 #, NEOCRYL A-1090, NEOCRYL BT-62 @, NEOCRYL A-1079, NEOCRYL A-523 @ can be used. the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, DOW LATEX 432 # by the company DOW CHEMICAL, DAITOSOL 5000 AD @ by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; or well the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names NEOREZ R-981, NEOREZ R-974 by the company AVECIANEORESINS, AVALURE UR-405 #, AVALURE UR-410, AVALURE UR-425

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 #, AVALURE UR-450, SANCURE 875 #, SANCURE 861 #, SANCURE 878 #, SANCURE 2060 by the company GOODRICH, IMPRANIL 85 # by the company BAYER, AQUAMERE H-1511 # by the company HYDROMER.

As aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is also possible to use the polymer dispersions resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers inside and / or partially at the surface, of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called hybrid polymers.

According to a second alternative embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer can be a water-soluble polymer and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition in dissolved form. As examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers, mention may be made of: proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat and soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; - cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose; - acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol; - polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as:. gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; . alginates and carrageenans; . glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; . shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals; . deoxyribonucleic acid; . muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitins sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

According to another alternative embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer can be present in a liquid fatty phase comprising oils or organic solvents such as those described above. Through

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 "liquid fatty phase" means, within the meaning of the invention, a fatty phase liquid at room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 105 Pa), composed of one or more liquid fatty substances at room temperature, also called oils, generally compatible with each other.

Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally in admixture with a non-volatile oil, the oils being able to be chosen from the oils mentioned above.

According to a third embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer can be present in the form of particles, surface stabilized, dispersed in the liquid fatty phase.

The dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles can be produced as described in document EP-A-749747.

The polymer particles are surface stabilized by means of a stabilizer which can be a block polymer, a graft polymer, and / or a random polymer, alone or as a mixture.

Dispersions of film-forming polymer in the liquid fatty phase, in the presence of stabilizing agents, are in particular described in documents EP-A-749746, EP-A-923928, EP-A-930060, the content of which is incorporated by reference. in this application.

The size of the polymer particles in dispersion either in the aqueous phase or in the liquid fatty phase can range from 5 nm to 600 nm, and preferably from 20 nm to 300 nm.

According to a fourth embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer can be dissolved in the liquid fatty phase, it is then said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer.

By way of example of a liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkylvinyl ether (in which the alkyl group contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl from the ester group).

These copolymers can be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which have the aim which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allylic or methallylic type, such as

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 tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.

As examples of these copolymers, mention may be made of the copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinyl ether , vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2-dimethyl, 2 vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2-dimethyl, 2 allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraal lyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0 , 2% divinyl benzene.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention may also be made of liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble homopolymers can be chosen from vinyl polystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked using divinylbenzene, diallylether or diallyl phthalate, poly (stearyl poly (meth) acrylate, vinyl polylaurate, poly ( lauryl meth) acrylate, these poly (meth) acrylates being capable of being crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

The liposoluble copolymers and homopolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2C2 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated at Ci to Cs such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, the copolymers of vinylpyrolidone (VP) and in particular the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of alkene in C2 to C40 and better in C3 to C20. By way of example of a VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP),

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 VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an auxiliary film-forming agent promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a film-forming agent can be chosen from all the compounds known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular can be chosen from plasticizing agents and coalescing agents.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty compound which is pasty at room temperature. By "pasty fatty substance" within the meaning of the invention is meant fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 25 to 60 C, preferably from 30 to 45 C and / or a hardness ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa , preferably from 0.005 to 0.4 MPa.

The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 2920 by TA Instruments, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 C per minute. (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).

The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder of 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample at a pre-speed of 1 mm / s and then at a measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm.

The value recorded for hardness is that of the maximum peak of the force applied.

Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of the polymeric type; they can also be chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated compounds; they can also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, the pasty hydrocarbon compounds (preferably containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly ester groups) are preferably used, in the majority proportion.

Among the pasty compounds capable of being used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa. s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55 ° C. and their mixtures. It is also possible to use fatty acid or alcohol esters, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (point

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 melting of the order of 20 to 35 C and / or viscosity at 40 C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s) such as tri-isostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate, cholesterol esters such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and their mixtures. As triglycerides of vegetable origin, it is possible to use derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, such as "THIXINR" from Rheox.

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55 C, such as stearyl dimethicones in particular those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names of DC2503 and DC25514, and their mixtures.

The pasty fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 60% (in particular 0.01% to 60%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0 , 5 to 45% by weight, and better ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in the composition.

The composition according to the invention may contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 5% to 15%. These surfactants can be chosen from anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants. Reference may be made to the document Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p.347-377 of this reference, for anionic and nonionic surfactants.

The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen: - from nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohols, acid esters fatty and sucrose, alkyl glucose esters, in particular fatty esters of Ci-Ce alkyl glucose polyoxyethylenated, mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleates or sorbitol or glycerol stearates, glycerol laurates or polyethylene glycol; alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with an alkyl or alkoxy chain hanging or at the end of a silicone skeleton having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (monostearate or polyethylene glycol monolaurate); polyoxyethylenated sorbitol fatty acid esters (stearate, oleate); polyoxyethylenated alkyl (lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, octyl) ethers and dimethicone copolyols, and mixtures thereof.

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- among the anionic surfactants: C16-C30 fatty acids neutralized by amines, ammonia or alkaline salts, and their mixtures.

Surfactants are preferably used which make it possible to obtain an oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsion.

The composition may comprise additional short fibers, different from the rigid fibers described above and in particular having a length of less than 0.8 mm, in particular ranging from 0.1 mm to 0.5 mm.

The short fibers can be chosen from silk, cotton, wool, linen, cellulose fibers extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon), modified cellulose (rayon, viscose, acetate in particular rayon acetate), in acrylic, in particular polymethyl methacrylate or poly 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, polyolefin and in particular polyethylene or polypropylene, Teflon, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate ,.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise a coloring matter such as pulverulent coloring matters, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes. This coloring material can be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pulverulent coloring matters can be chosen from pigments and pearlescent agents.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, l hydrate of chromium and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

* The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearly pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, (3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11,

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 D&C Violet 2, D&C orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise fillers. By fillers, it is necessary to understand particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced. These charges are used in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon @) (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon @) , lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap from Dow Corning ) and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba pearls, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, polymethyl methacrylate microbeads, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydro-carbonate , hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads by Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

The fillers can be present in an amount of 0.01 to 30% by weight, and preferably 0.5% to 15% by weight.

The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, sun filters, and mixtures thereof.

These additives can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still ranging from 0.01 to 10%.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their amount in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not affected by the envisaged addition.

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 The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.

Example 1: A mascara was prepared having the following composition: - Polyimide-amide fibers 2 mm in length sold under the name KERMEL TECH by the company Rhodia 0.63 g - Saponite (Veegum DGT from the company Vanderbilt) 2, 63 g - Associative polyurethane (Ser Ad FX 1100 from the company Servo) 2 g - Sulfopolyester (AQ 55 S from the company Eastman Chemical) 3 g - Beeswax 8 g - Polyvinylpyrrolidone / 1-eicosene copolymer (Antaron V 220F from ISP) 3 g - Microbead of methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate 4 g - Polyamide fibers 0.3 mm long and 0.9 Dtex from Paul Bonte 2 g - Propylene glycol 8 g - Oxide of black iron 8 g - Preservatives qs - Water qs 100 g This mascara has the following rheological profile: - initial consistency G1 * equal to 10,000 Pa - initial elasticity #i equal to 26 - flow threshold #c equal to 100 Pa ; - resumption in thixotropy, after a continuous shear of 1000 s-1, for one minute equal to 32% after 1 minute of rest and equal to 84.5% after 30 minutes of rest.

The rigid polyimide-amide fibers are homogeneously dispersed in the mascara. The latter is easily applied to the eyelashes and allows optimal eyelash lengthening to be obtained, the rigid fibers being fixed in the extension of the eyelashes.

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Example 2: A mascara is prepared having the following composition: - Polyimide-amide fibers 2 mm in length sold under the name KERMEL TECH by the company Rhodia 1 g - Hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride sold under the name Bentone 38V by Elementis 11 g - Propylene carbonate 2 g - Carnauba wax 8 g - Black iron oxide 7 g - Preservative qs - Isododecane qs 100 g The mascara obtained has a thixotropic plastic behavior; it is easily applied to the eyelashes and gives them a homogeneous lengthening effect located in the extension of the eyelashes.

Claims (67)

 CLAIMS 1. Composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, substantially rectilinear rigid fibers and a wax, the composition exhibiting a thixotropic plastic behavior. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that at least 50% by number, preferably at least 75% by number, and better still at least 90% by number of the fibers are such that the angle formed between the tangent to the longitudinal central axis of the fiber and the straight line connecting said end to the point on the longitudinal central axis of the fiber corresponding to half the length of the fiber is less than 15 and the angle formed between the tangent to l '' longitudinal central axis of the fiber at a point located mid-length of the fiber and the straight line connecting one of the ends to the point on the longitudinal central axis of the fiber corresponding to half of the fiber length is less than or equal to 15, for the same fiber length ranging from 0.8 mm to 5 mm, preferably ranging from 1 mm to 4 mm, preferably ranging from 1 mm to 3 mm, and better still from 2 mm. 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the said angle is less than or equal to 10, preferably less than or equal to 5. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers have a length (L) ranging from 0.8 mm to 5 mm, preferably ranging from 1 mm to 4 mm, and preferably ranging from 1 mm to 3 mm. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers have a section included in a circle of diameter (D) ranging from 2 nm to 500 $ m, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 m , and preferably ranging from 1 m to 50 m. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers have a form factor (L / D) ranging from 3.5 to 2,500, preferably from 5 to 500, and better still from 5 to 150. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fibers have a titer ranging from 0.15 to 30 denier, and preferably ranging from 0.18 to 18 denier. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the substantially rectilinear rigid fibers are fibers of a synthetic polymer chosen from polyesters, polyurethanes, acrylic polymers, polyolefins, polyamides. <Desc / Clms Page number 44> 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the substantially rectilinear rigid fibers are polyimide-aromatic amide fibers. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the substantially straight rigid fibers are fibers of aromatic polyimide-imide, said aromatic polyimide-amide comprising a recurring unit of formula (1):

 optionally, in addition, a recurring unit of formula (II): -NH-R-NH-CO-R2-CO- (II) optionally, in addition, a recurring unit of formula (III):

 optionally, in addition, a recurring motif of formula (IV):

<Desc / Clms Page number 45>  11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that Ri represents:

 12. Composition according to one of claims 10 or 11, characterized in that R is chosen from the groups:

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 13. Composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that R2 is a group of formula:  14. Composition according to any one of claims 10 to 13, characterized in that R3 is chosen from the groups of formula:

 15. Composition according to any one of claims 10 to 14, characterized in that the polyimide-amide is obtained by polymerization of tolyulene diisocyanate and trimellitic anhydride and comprises repeating units of formula:

 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the substantially rectilinear rigid fibers are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight. <Desc / Clms Page number 47>  17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has an initial consistency G * i ranging from 1 x 10 2 Pa to 1 x 105 Pa, preferably ranging from 5 x 102 Pa to 5 x 104 Pa, and better going from 6 x 102 Pa to 9 x 103 Pa, measured under a sinusoidal stress at a frequency of 1 Hz. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has an initial elasticity #i ranging from 1 to 45, and better still ranging from 10 to 35. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a flow threshold #c ranging from 10 Pa to 3500 Pa, and preferably ranging from 20 Pa to 1000 Pa. 20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a thixotropic thickening agent. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an aqueous medium. 22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises water and optionally a hydrophilic organic solvent. 23. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the hydrophilic organic solvent is chosen from, such as monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, polyols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes. 24. Composition according to claim 22 or 23, characterized in that the water or the mixture of water and of hydrophilic organic solvent is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition, and preferably from 0.1% to 60% by weight. 25. Composition according to one of claims 20 to 24, characterized in that the thixotropic thickening agent is a thixotropic thickener of aqueous medium chosen from hydrophilic clays, carrageenan gum, hydrophilic fumed silica. 26. Composition according to claim 25, characterized in that the hydrophilic clay is chosen from the group formed by clays of the family of smectites, vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites. <Desc / Clms Page number 48>  27. Composition according to claim 25 or 26, characterized in that the hydrophilic clay is chosen from the group formed by montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite, saponites.  28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a liquid fatty phase.  29. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase comprises a fatty substance chosen from oils, organic solvents, and their mixtures.  30. Composition according to claim 28 or 29, characterized in that it comprises an oil chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based, alone or as a mixture.  31. Composition according to any one of claims 28 to 30, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase represents from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1 to 80% by weight.  32. Composition according to any one of claims 28 to 31, characterized in that it comprises at least one volatile oil or a volatile organic solvent.  33. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile oil is chosen from octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, branched C8-C16 alkanes.  34. Composition according to claim 32 or 33, characterized in that the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% at 65% by weight.  35. Composition according to any one of claims 28 to 34, characterized in that it comprises a non-volatile oil.  36. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 0.1% to 20% by weight. <Desc / Clms Page number 49>  37. Composition according to any one of claims 20 and 28 to 36, characterized in that the thixotropic thickening agent is a thixotropic thickener of oily medium. 38. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the thixotropic thickening agent for oily medium is chosen from organophilic clays, hydrophobic fumed silicas, elastomeric organopolysiloxanes. 39. Composition according to any one of claims 20.25 to 27.37, 38, characterized in that the thixotropic thickening agent is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight. 40. Composition according to any one of claims 20 to 39, characterized in that it comprises an additional thickening agent. 41. Composition according to any one of claims 20 to 40, characterized in that it comprises an additional hydrophilic thickening agent. 42. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional thixotropic agent is an associative polyurethane. 43. Composition according to any one of claims 20 to 42, characterized in that it comprises an additional lipophilic thickening agent. 44. Composition according to any one of claims 40 to 43, characterized in that the additional thickening agent is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight. 45. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a melting temperature above 30 C and up to 120 C. 46. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is chosen from beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, esters <Desc / Clms Page number 50>  fatty acids and glycerides concrete at 40 C, the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, in C8-C32, silicone waxes, fluorinated waxes, and their mixture . 47. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa. 48. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0, 5% to 30% by weight, and better still 1% to 20% by weight. 49. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a film-forming polymer. 50. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is chosen from the group formed by vinyl polymers, acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers. 51. Composition according to claim 49 or 50, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion. 52. Composition according to any one of claims 49 to 51, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is present in a dry matter content of polymer ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and better still from 1% to 30% by weight. 53. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a pasty fatty substance. 54. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a surfactant. 55. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises additional short fibers, different from rigid fibers, and having a length of less than 0.8 mm, preferably ranging from 0.1 mm to 0.5 mm. 56. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a coloring material. <Desc / Clms Page number 51> 57. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the coloring matter is chosen from pigments, nacres, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes. 58. Composition according to claim 56 or 57, characterized in that the coloring matter is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 59. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a filler. 60. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic additive chosen from antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, sun filters, plasticizers, coalescing agents. 61. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an eyelash coating composition, eyebrow product, eyeliner, lip product, blush cheeks or eyeshadows, foundation, body makeup, concealer, nail polish, skin care product. 62. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a mascara. 63. Cosmetic process for making up and caring for keratin materials comprising the application to keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims. 64. Cosmetic method for making up and caring for the eyelashes, comprising the application to the eyelashes of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 60 and 62. 65. Use of rigid fibers, substantially rectilinear, in a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a film-forming polymer, the composition having a thixotropic plastic behavior, in order to obtain a deposit, in particular a make-up, homogeneous on keratin materials. 66. Use of a mascara comprising a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 60, to obtain an elongation in the extension of the eyelashes and / or to mimic the extension of the eyelashes. <Desc / Clms Page number 52> 67. Use of rigid fibers, substantially rectilinear, in a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a film-forming polymer, the composition having a thixotropic plastic behavior, to obtain an extension in the extension of the eyelashes and / or to mimic the extension of the lashes.