FR2834887A1 - Composition for combating skin aging and improving resistance of aged skin to solar radiation containing extract of Artemia zooplankton as heat shock protein inducer - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of an extract (I) of Artemia (zooplankton) is claimed in the production of a composition for restoring physiological levels of heat shock proteins (HSP) in aging skins or protecting aging skins against solar radiation. Independent claims are also included for: (i) cosmetic or dermatological compositions (A) for use as above; comprising (I) in a suitable medium; and (ii) corresponding cosmetic methods, involving application of (A) to the skin.

Description

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The present invention relates to the use for the preparation of a composition, of an effective amount of an extract of artemia; the extract or composition being intended to restore a physiological level of HSP in aged skin.

The present invention relates to the use for the preparation of a composition, of an effective amount of an extract of artemia; the extract or composition being intended to protect aged skin from the sun's rays.

If, in the middle of the last century, cosmetics were to delay the effects of aging, the world population never ceasing to age, it must now face a new demand, that of the aged skin, even very old. Especially since the excess exposure to the sun exerted their harmful effects for a long time before the sunscreens were widespread and used. For these skins, the challenge is no longer to fight against time, but to protect the meager remaining capital.

Recent advances in skin biology have highlighted several mechanisms involved in skin protection. One of these mechanisms, which currently seems essential, is that of chaperone molecules, otherwise called HSPs (Heat Shock Proteins). These HSP proteins have the role of protecting or repairing genetic material, peptides and proteins damaged during stress. The synthesis of HSPs is therefore a generalized defense, developed by the cell in order to deal with the great diversity of possible aggressions.

All living organisms have to cope, at some point in their existence, with variations in their environmental conditions. Depending on the nature and extent of these modifications, they can be perceived by the organism or the cell as aggression, stress. This stress will be physical, chemical or biological. The main stresses are thermal shock, exposure to free oxygen radicals, ultraviolet rays, heavy metals, osmotic shock, pressure shock, but also pathological conditions such as fever, inflammation, viral infection ...

Following stress, there is, in general, a decrease, at the cellular level, in the expression of messenger RNAs, in the synthesis of normal cellular proteins and in certain enzymatic activities, as well as morphological alterations. Faced with this, the cell puts in

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 places a protective system by inducing transcription of a family of specific genes, which results in the synthesis and intracellular accumulation of HSP.

In the skin, studies have shown the presence of HSP27, HSP47, HSP60, HSP70 and HSP90. The HSP27 and HSP90 are expressed at the epidermal level in the basal and suprabasal layers, the HSC70 at the suprabasal level, the HSP70 at the epidermal level (Boechncke et al., 1994). Other studies have shown the presence of HSP47 at the epidermal level.

However, as we age, the skin gradually accumulates damaged proteins, and its ability to express HSP decreases, as well as its resistance to stress.

This problem is further exacerbated when aged skin is exposed to the sun's rays, since its ability to protect itself is markedly reduced.

Several products exist on the cosmetic market to induce HSP in the skin, but, in order to carry out these protein syntheses, the skin must draw on resources, getting tired. If this mechanism is not a problem for most skins, it becomes so when the skins are old and therefore need all their energy to function.

It is therefore found that there remains a need for a new product, having an action on aged skin, in order to restore a physiological level of HSP capable of protecting aged skin from external aggressions.

However, the Applicant has found, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that an effective amount of an artemia extract has an action on aged skin.

The Applicant has already studied the use of a zooplankton extract such as artemia to induce HSP, as mentioned in the document FR2810241.

To the knowledge of the applicant, it has never been described in the prior art the use of an extract of artemia to treat and protect aged skin.

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Thus, the present invention relates to the use for the preparation of a composition, of an effective amount of an extract of artemia; the extract or composition being intended to restore a physiological level of HSP in aged skin.

A second object of the invention is the use, for the preparation of a composition, of an effective amount of an artemia extract; the extract or composition being intended to protect aged skin from the sun's rays.

Thereafter, the term artemia extract must be understood by an extract of artemia zooplankton in a dormant state.

Another subject of the invention is the use as defined above, according to which the artemia extract is obtained from the species Artemia salina in a dormant state.

Another subject of the invention is the use as defined above, according to which the artemia extract contains at least 150 mg / liter of diguanosine tetraphosphate.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the artemia extract is previously dissolved in one or more cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable solvents such as water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethoxylated diglycols or propoxylates, ethanol, propanol or isopropanol.

According to yet another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the artemia extract is previously dissolved in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical carrier such as liposomes or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, mineral supports such as talcs and bentonites, and more generally dissolved in, or attached to, any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier.

To give an order of magnitude, in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention, the artemia extract is used in an amount representing from 0.0001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing from 0.001% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

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Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention will be in a dosage form suitable for administration by the topical skin route, and cover all cosmetic or dermatological forms. These compositions must therefore contain a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, body hair or hair. These compositions may in particular be in the form of creams, O / W emulsions, W / O or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions, gels, milks, lotions, sticks or powders, suitable for application to the skin, the lips and / or the hair.

These compositions include the excipients necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, surfactants, antioxidants, dyes, preservatives, perfumes.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or non-active, and / or their quantity, so that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not appreciably, altered by the addition considered.

Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it contains, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, an artemia extract in order to restore a physiological level of HSP in aged skin.

Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it contains, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, an extract of artemia in order to protect aged skin from the rays of the sun.

In the compositions of the invention, the artemia extract is present in an amount representing from 0.001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing from 0.001% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

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The invention relates to a cosmetic method for restoring a physiological level of HSP in the skin, consisting in applying, to aged skin, the composition as defined above.

Finally, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for increasing protection against the sun's rays of aged skin, consisting in applying, to aged skin, the composition as defined above.

50 grammes d' oeufs d'Artemia salina sont réhydratés de 30 minutes à 6 heures à une température de 30 C à 65 C, dans 1 litre d'un milieu adapté, principalement constitué d'eau, et à un pH compris entre 4 et 7. Ensuite, ces oeufs sont broyés. Le contenu intracytoplasmique obtenu est centrifugé et filtré. L'extrait est enfin stérilisé par filtration stérilisante et chauffage à 65 C. Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear better on reading the examples given by way of illustration and not limitation. Example 1-Preparation of an extract of artemia

50 grams of Artemia salina eggs are rehydrated from 30 minutes to 6 hours at a temperature of 30 C to 65 C, in 1 liter of a suitable medium, mainly consisting of water, and at a pH between 4 and 7. Then these eggs are ground. The intracytoplasmic content obtained is centrifuged and filtered. The extract is finally sterilized by sterilizing filtration and heating to 65 C.

An HPLC assay is carried out to confirm a diguanosine tetraphosphate content greater than 150 mg / liter.

Example 2-Effects of the extract of Example 1 on aged skin The artemia extract of Example 1 was used at 3% in in vitro and ex vivo tests.

5 punch biopsies were performed on adult volunteers (31 to 40 years old) and 10 punch biopsies on elderly volunteers (50 to 70 years old). The expression of HSP 70 was studied by immunostaining on all skin samples before and 24 hours after a UVB exposure of 100 mJ / cm2, with or without pre-treatment with Artemia extract from l 'example 1.

In the absence of stress, aged skin expresses lower concentrations of HSP 70 than adult skin both in the epidermis and in the superficial dermis. After stress

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 UV, while adult skin over-expresses HSP 70 in order to combat aggression, older skin is unable to produce HSP 70.

In contrast, elderly skin treated with Artemia extract before exposure to UVB, express a level of HSP 70 comparable to adult skin.

In addition, histological studies on these aged biopsies show that they are more resistant to stress when they are pretreated with Artemia extract. Indeed, we observe in pre-treated biopsies, a significant decrease in signs of damage due to UVB (skin morphology, decrease in sun bum cells ...).

The same experiments have been carried out on human fibroblasts, and lead to the same conclusions. These immunoblotting studies show that aging fibroblasts are unable to produce HSP 70 under stress, but that pre-treated with Artemia extract, they regain their ability to express HSP and to resist stress.

These studies confirm the fragility of old skin against UV stress and offer a very interesting application of Artemia extract to increase the concentration of HSP 70 in old skin. Therefore, Artemia extract offers an interesting path in the protection of aged skin against stress.

Example 3-Preparation of compositions These compositions were obtained by simple mixing of the various components. The quantities indicated are given as a percentage by weight.

1-Oil in water emulsion Oily phase: * Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside) 5.00% * Jojoba oil 5.00% * Vaseline oil 5.00% w Isopropyl Palmitate 7.00%

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Aqueous phase: w Glycerin 5.00% * Allantoin 0.10% # Extract from Example 1 5.00% a Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide and C13-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7) 0.30% * Preservative 0.50% w Perfume 0. 50% # Water qs 100% 2-Carbopol Ultrez 10 Gel (2% sol.) 25.00% a Triethanolamine 0.50% * Extract from Example 1 1.00% # Preservative 0.20% # EDTA (sequestrant) 0.10% # Perfume 0.50% a Water qs 100 %
3-Lotion # Mono Propylene Glycol 1.00% - Allantoin 0.30% a Glycerin 1.00% # Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) 1.00% # Extract from Example 1 0.10% # Preservative 0.20% # Perfume 0. 50% # Water qs 100%

Claims (12)

 CLAIMS 1. Use for the preparation of a composition, of an effective amount of an extract of artemia; the extract or composition being intended to restore a physiological level of HSP in aged skin. 2. Use for the preparation of a composition, of an effective amount of an extract of artemia; the extract or composition being intended to protect aged skin from the sun's rays. 3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the artemia extract is obtained from the species Artemia salina in a dormant state. 4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the artemia extract contains at least 150 mg / liter of diguanosine tetraphosphate. 5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the artemia extract is previously dissolved in one or more cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable solvents such as water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol , ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, ethanol, propanol or isopropanol. 6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Artemia extract is dissolved beforehand in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical carrier such as liposomes or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, mineral supports such as talcs and bentonites , and more generally dissolved in, or attached to, any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier. 7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the artemia extract is used in an amount representing from 0.0001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing 0.001% to 5% of the total weight of the composition. <Desc / Clms Page number 9> 8. Cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it contains, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, an extract of artemia in order to restore a physiological level of HSP in aged skin. 9. Cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it contains, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, an extract of artemia in order to protect aged skin from the rays of the sun. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 9, characterized in that the artemia extract is present in an amount representing from 0.0001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing from 0.001% to 5% of the total weight of the composition. 11. Cosmetic method for restoring a physiological level of HSP in the skin, consisting in applying, to aged skin, the composition according to claims 8 to 10. 12. Cosmetic method for increasing the protection against sun radiation of aged skin, consisting in applying, to aged skin, the composition according to claims 8 to 10.