FR2827160A1 - Cosmetic composition for make-up and/or care of the skin and lips comprises a dispersion of particles with a rigid core of functionalized (semi)crystalline material and a shell of a flexible polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for make-up and/or care of the skin and lips comprises a dispersion of particles consisting of a rigid core of functionalized (semi)crystalline material with a melting or combustion point above 40 deg C chemically grafted with a shell of a flexible polymer with a glass transition temperature (Tg) of 60 deg C or less. An Independent claim is also included for a process for applying the cosmetic composition on the skin or lips.

Description

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The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratin fibers and / or the skin comprising at least one dispersion of particles comprising a phase of flexible type at least partly external based on flexible polymer, and a rigid type phase at least in internal part which is a functionalized, crystalline or semi-crystalline material. More specifically, the invention relates to the use of at least one dispersion of particles comprising an at least partly external phase based on flexible polymer, and an at least partly internal phase of rigid type which is a functionalized, crystalline material. or semi-crystalline, in a cosmetic composition to improve the resistance and the comfort of a deposit of said composition, applied to keratin materials.

The introduction of film-forming compounds into cosmetic compositions, as described for example in EP-A-0. 775.483, in dispersion in aqueous phase, makes it possible to increase the resistance of the products, but often at the expense of comfort, and this most often in a way that is prohibitive for users. These comfort problems are partly linked to the mechanical properties of the deposits obtained on the skin. Indeed, cosmetic compositions containing film-forming compounds often create, when drying on the skin, unpleasant tightness sensations for users.

In addition, it may happen that the inherent rigidity of the film-forming compounds, when the film is formed on the skin, is too great, which gives an unpleasant feeling of mask during movements, for example of the face.

In the case of dispersions in a non-aqueous medium, the patent application EP-A-0. 987.012 describes an improvement in that, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of non-transfer compared to the compositions of patent application EP-A-0. 749.747, the polymer particles in surface dispersion have been stabilized by means of a stabilizer which may be a block polymer, a polymer grafted by pendant chains, or a random polymer, alone or as a mixture. However, the stabilizer is found in solution during storage of the composition in the jar or during use, which poses problems of homogeneity and therefore of stability of the compositions which comprise it.

 Furthermore, if the film is favored, by the use of a film-forming compound forming a particularly flexible film, there is a significant risk that the cosmetic composition containing such a film-forming agent will be sticky, and therefore of uneasy cosmetic use, for example by the appearance of a surface bonding phenomenon when applied to the skin.

 There therefore remains the need for compositions combining stability and comfort, which can be applied to the skin or to the lips.

 The subject of the invention is precisely a cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratin fibers and / or the skin (including the mucous membranes such as the lips), comprising a dispersion of particles comprising at least one phase of flexible type. at least partly external comprising at least one flexible polymer, of glass transition temperature lower or equal to 60 C, preferably lower or equal to 45 C, and at least one phase of rigid type at least partly internal which is a material crystalline or semi-crystalline, functionalized, with a melting point greater than 40 ° C., preferably greater than 60 ° C., and which is such that the flexible polymer is fixed at least partially by chemical grafting on said phase of rigid type.

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By glass transition temperature is meant the temperature at which the material changes from a solid state to a rubbery state. It is measured by a specific heat change or a change in volume of the material observed.

Differential thermal analysis (called DTA method, for Differential Thermal Analysis) and Differential Calorimetry (called DSC method, for Differential Scanning Calorimetry) are methods for measuring such a glass transition temperature, and give results that are substantially identical. Thus, the glass transition temperature is a datum measured, for example from DSC measurement, according to standard ASTM D3418-97. In addition, by defining the polymer by a glass transition temperature, it is understood that the polymer may have heterosities of microstructure but that its behavior is generally close to that of the phase of the polymer having this glass transition.

Surprisingly, the applicant has found that the application of such compositions leads to a deposit having remarkable cosmetic properties. In particular, such compositions are comfortable to apply, and hold remarkably well.

They have no surface tack and have very good mechanical properties once applied to the skin, after drying. In addition, they are stable, that is to say that there is no decomposition in two phases with respect to each other, with appearance in the packaging or during application or following application, of heterogeneous zones.

après dépôt sur la peau ou les lèvres. De plus, la composition cosmétique, notamment de maquillage ou de soin, selon l'invention ne transfère pratiquement pas, c'est-à-dire qu'elle ne se dépose pratiquement pas, en laissant des traces, sur certains supports avec lesquels elle peut être mise en contact, et notamment un verre, un vêtement ou la peau. The advantage of such compositions is furthermore to possess properties of absence of migration and non-transfer. By "migration" is meant an overflow of the composition outside the initial route. Indeed, a significant migration of a cosmetic composition, and in general of the liquid fatty phase possibly present in said composition, in particular when it is loaded with coloring matters, leads to an unsightly effect around the area of application, for example around the lips and eyes, particularly accentuating wrinkles and fine lines. The composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to limit, in particular in hot and humid regions, the migration of part of the composition in fine lines and wrinkles,

after deposit on the skin or lips. In addition, the cosmetic composition, in particular make-up or care composition, according to the invention practically does not transfer, that is to say that it practically does not deposit, leaving traces, on certain supports with which it can be brought into contact, and in particular a glass, a garment or the skin.

As a result, the user does not have to regularly renew the application of the composition, in particular foundation or lipstick, and he does not have to bear the appearance of these unacceptable traces, for example on shirt collars.

kératiniques comme les cheveux, les cils et les sourcils, tels que les mascaras. The invention applies to lip makeup products, such as lip products such as lipsticks and lip pencils. The invention also applies to care and / or treatment products for the face and / or the body, that is to say the skin, including the scalp, and the lips, such as care products. of the face or the human body. The invention also applies to make-up products for the skin, both of the face and of the human body, such as foundations, concealer products, eyeshadows, blushes and tattoo products. ephemeral. Finally, the invention applies to personal care products such as deodorants, shampoos and conditioners, to eye makeup products such as eyeliners and pencils, as well as to care and fiber makeup

keratin like hair, eyelashes and eyebrows, like mascaras.

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In one embodiment of the invention, said rigid and flexible type phase particles are film-forming, and then they can form a film generally around 30 ° C., that is to say that they have a MFFT (for minimum film-forming temperature), less than or equal to about 30 C, preferably about 25 C.

The filming at room temperature of the particles according to the invention may require the presence of at least one coalescing agent or at least one plasticizer in the cosmetic care and / or makeup composition according to the invention, as well as he is known to those skilled in the art. Such a plasticizer is generally a volatile organic compound which remains in the composition during the use and the formation of the film. Such a coalescing agent is generally a volatile organic compound which evaporates during the use and the formation of the film.

According to such an embodiment, the film obtained after drying of the composition, generally spreading for a cosmetic composition, is such that it has a maximum tensile stress (for a% elongation less than 100%) less or equal to about 10MPa, preferably less than or equal to about 5MPa. The maximum tensile stress can be determined during tensile tests as described in standard ASTM D638-99, for example on a dumbbell test piece (type IV according to the standard) at a speed of 50 mm / min. The test pieces are cut from films with a thickness of about 100 μm. According to this standard, to produce a film, the dispersions are poured into a teflon-coated matrix, they are left to dry at a temperature equal to 25 ° C. so that the volatile medium evaporates and the film formed is recovered. The tests are preferably carried out on films having undergone at least 24 h of drying at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at ambient humidity (50%).

 Such a film does not have a surface tack, that is to say that, after contact between the finger and the surface of the film, one does not feel an impression of tackiness of the surface when the contact with it is broken. ci by lifting the finger, unlike what one can feel after contact with an adhesive face, for example an adhesive tape.

 Preferably, the flexible polymer is especially chosen from block and / or random polymers. The term “block and / or statistical polymers” means polymers whose distribution of the monomers on the main chain or the pendant links is sequenced (blocks) and / or statistical. Such polymers can be polyacrylics, polymethacrylics, polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethyl siloxane (PDMS), polyamides, polyurethanes, polyolefins in particular polyisoprenes, polybutadienes, polyisobutylenes (PIB), polyesters, polyvinyl ethers, polyvinyl ethers, polyvinyl ethers polyoxides and their associations. By associations is meant the copolymers which can be formed from the monomers leading to the formation of said polymers, whether these copolymers are block (block) or random.

 The rigid type phase is an organic or mineral material. Such chemical grafting makes it possible, by establishing covalent bonds, to stabilize the link between the rigid type phase and the flexible type phase.

 By functionalized, it is meant that the surface of the crystalline zones in contact with the flexible polymer must have reactive functions in order to create covalent bonds. This can be done in a manner known to those skilled in the art. As an example of reactive functions, mention may be made of acidic or basic functions, for example

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 amino functions, on mineral surfaces, or reactive double bonds on (semi-) crystalline polymers.

By melting temperature is meant the temperature at which the material changes from a solid state to a liquid or partially gaseous state. It results in an endothermic peak observable in differential thermal analysis (called DTA method, for Differential Thermal Analysis) or in differential calorimetry (known as DSC method, for Differential Scanning Calorimetry), which are methods for measuring such a melting temperature, and which give substantially identical results. Thus, the melting temperature is a datum measured, for example from a DSC measurement, according to standard ASTM E794-98. In the case of mineral materials, the measurement is made in a specific high temperature ATD cell. In addition, by defining the material by a melting temperature, it is understood that its behavior is generally close to that of a material having this melting temperature.

The particles generally have a size of 1 nm to 10 μm, preferably from 10 nm to
1 μm measured for example by a Brookhaven BI-90 type device which employs the light scattering technique.

 The proportion of phase of flexible type with respect to the phase of rigid type, in the particles according to the invention, is generally such that the phase of flexible type represents at least 1%, preferably at least 5%, and again more preferred at least 10%, even 25%, and up to 99.999%, by volume relative to the total volume of the particle.

 In all cases, the rigid type phase and the flexible type phase are incompatible, that is to say that they can be distinguished using techniques well known to those skilled in the art, such as for example electron microscopy.

 The morphologies of the phases within the dispersed particles may, for example, be of the heart-shell type, with parts of the shell completely surrounding the heart, but also heart-shell with a multiplicity of hearts, or an interpenetrating network of phases. What is essential is that the rigid type phase is at least in part, preferably for the most part, internal, and that the flexible type phase is at least in part, preferably for the most part, external.

 The particles according to the invention, also called composite or multiphase particles, are non-homogeneous particles, having potentially very diverse structures. They are prepared by consecutive polymerization series, with different types of monomers. The particles of a first family of monomers are generally prepared in a separate step, or formed in situ by polymerization. Then or at the same time, at least one other family of other monomers are polymerized during at least one additional polymerization step. The particles thus formed have at least one structure at least in part internally, or in nucleus, and at least one structure at least in part external, or in bark. The formation of a heterogeneous multilayer structure is thus possible. A wide variety of morphologies can result, from the heart-shell type, but also for example with fragmented inclusions from the rigid type phase into the flexible type phase. According to the invention, it is essential that the structure in phase of the flexible type at least in external part is more flexible than the structure in phase of rigid type at least in internal part.

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In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is such that the dispersion of particles is a dispersion in a hydrophilic medium. Preferably such a dispersion is an aqueous dispersion, that is to say a dispersion in an aqueous medium consisting mainly of water, and preferably practically entirely of water. In this case, the particles have generally been prepared by at least one emulsion polymerization, in an essentially aqueous continuous phase, from reaction initiators, such as photochemical or thermal initiators, for a polymerization which is most often radical. The additives generally present for such a preparation can be stabilizers, chain transfer agents, and / or catalysts.

In the preferred case of the invention such that the dispersion of particles is an aqueous dispersion, one then speaks of latex or pseudo-latex. By latex is meant an aqueous dispersion of polymer particles such as can be obtained by emulsion polymerization of at least one monomer. Latexes generally have the lowest possible minimum filming temperature, or MFFT. As explained above, the MFFT is the lowest temperature at which the particles form a continuous film, after evaporation of the water in the present case.

In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is such that the dispersion of particles is a dispersion in a lipophilic medium, that is to say a non-aqueous medium. We speak in this case of non-aqueous dispersion polymers, or NAD.

In this case, the particles have generally been prepared by at least one solution polymerization, in a solvent or organic medium, from reaction initiators, such as free radical thermal initiators, for an essentially radical polymerization. The solvent phase chosen must make it possible to dissolve the monomers but must no longer be a solvent for the final polymer, which is found in dispersion. The compounds generally present for such a preparation can be stabilizers, chain transfer agents, and / or catalysts.

 According to one embodiment, said crystalline or semi-crystalline material is a wax. A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solidellic change of state, having a melting temperature above 450 ° C. and better still above 55 ° C. 'at 2000 C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state.

Waxes, in the sense of demand, are those generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, they are in particular of natural origin such as beeswax, Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricoury, Japanese, fiber wax. cork or cane, paraffin wax, lignite, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, but also of synthetic origin like polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization of ethylene, the waxes obtained by Fischer synthesis-
Tropsch, fatty acid esters and glycerides concrete at 40 ° C., silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and / or poly (di) methylsiloxane esters at 25 ° C. Preferably, original waxes are used synthetic for reasons of reproducibility higher than that of natural waxes. You can choose a mixture of waxes, natural and / or synthetic.

 According to another embodiment, independent or not of the previous embodiment, the crystalline or semi-crystalline material is chosen from (semi-) crystalline polymers. For example, said material is chosen from polyolefins such as

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 polyethylene, polyvinyls, polyvinylidenes such as polyvinylidene chloride or polytetrafluoroethylene, polyacrylics, polymethacrylics, polyvinyl alcohols, polyamides such as poly-ss-alanine or lauroyl-lysine, polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyoxides, polysulfids, polysulfones and their associations.

l'alumine, le talc, le mica, le kaolin, le nitrure de bore, les carbonates, l'hydroxyapatite, et leurs mélanges. According to another embodiment, independent or not from the previous embodiments, the material is chosen from mineral compounds. For example, said crystalline or semi-crystalline material is chosen from silica, titanium dioxide,

alumina, talc, mica, kaolin, boron nitride, carbonates, hydroxyapatite, and mixtures thereof.

Galenics According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a single or multiple emulsion with an oily or aqueous continuous phase, an oily dispersion in an aqueous phase using vesicles containing ionic and / or non-ionic lipids ionic. They can, moreover, have the appearance of a more or less fluid cream, a more or less viscous paste, a solid emulsion poured into a mold in the form of a cup or stick. The dynamic viscosity of the composition, when the composition is liquid, can be chosen from a wide range from 0.001 to 800 Pa. S measured at 25 C with a viscometer equipped with a mobile rotating at 100 rpm.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may contain a continuous hydrophilic phase, that is to say at least one hydrophilic body, miscible or soluble at least in part with water, which may be liquid, pasty or solid at room temperature (25 C generally) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013. 105 Pa). In particular, said composition can comprise or be presented in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion or solution in water or an aqueous-alcoholic medium, optionally thickened or even gelled; oil-in-water (O / W), or multiple (W / O / W) emulsion, in the form of cream, paste or even a solid; aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel or hydrophilic foam; emulsified gel; dispersion of vesicles, in particular of ionic lipids or not; biphase or multiphase lotion; spray. Those skilled in the art can choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand of the application envisaged for the composition.

produit déodorant. Elle peut notamment être utilisée comme base de soin pour la peau ou les lèvres. The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dermatological tinted composition or for caring for the skin and / or the lips, in the form of a composition for sun protection or for personal hygiene in particular in the form of

deodorant product. It can in particular be used as a care base for the skin or the lips.

The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored product for making up the skin, in particular a foundation, optionally having care or treatment properties, a blush, a blush, a eyeshadow, concealer, eyeliner, body makeup; lip makeup like a lipstick, possibly having care or treatment properties.

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Of course, the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable. By cosmetically acceptable is meant within the meaning of the invention a composition of pleasant appearance, odor, taste and feel. The term “dermatologically acceptable” is intended to mean non-toxic and capable of being applied to the skin or the lips of human beings.

Additives The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one coloring matter. The coloring matter according to the invention can be chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments, nacres, usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof, all of these compounds being usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions . This coloring material is generally present in an amount of 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 30%.

The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, ss-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D&C orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto, or mixtures thereof.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not, of usual size or nanometric. The term “pigments” should be understood to mean particles insoluble in the medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally treated on the surface, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.

 Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of type 0 & C, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum, and mixtures thereof. The pigments can in particular be coated with at least one silicone compound such as polydimethylsiloxanes and / or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes and / or at least one fluorinated compound and / or at least one amino acid. Mention may thus be made of the oxides SI which are polymethylhydrogenosiloxane coated pigments sold by the company Miyoshi.

 The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof.

The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, chosen in particular from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, pasty products at room temperature, neutralizers, liposoluble or dispersible polymers in the medium, cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, anti-free radicals, dispersants such as poly (12 -hydroxystéarique), and their mixtures. These additives can be present in the composition in an amount of 0.01 to
50%, and better still from 0.01 to 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

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Advantageously, the composition contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, affected by the envisaged addition.

Advantageously, the composition contains at least one cosmetic active and / or one dermatological active and / or at least one coloring matter.

The composition may, in addition, contain at least one filler (one or more) in order to obtain a matte product, which is in particular sought for foundations and in particular, for foundations or day cream for people with oily skin. By "filler" is meant any solid particle at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, used alone or in combination which does not react chemically with the various ingredients of the composition and which are insoluble in these ingredients, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature higher than room temperature and in particular their softening temperature or their melting temperature. These inert fillers have melting temperatures at least above 1700C and better above 2000C. They may or may not be absorbent, that is to say capable in particular of absorbing the oils of the composition as well as the biological substances secreted by the skin. Preferably, these fillers have an apparent diameter ranging from 0.01 to 150 µm, preferably from 0.5 to 120; jim and better from 1 to 80 µm. An apparent diameter corresponds to the diameter of the circle in which the elementary particle is registered according to its smallest dimension (thickness for lamellae).

The fillers which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be mineral or organic, lamellar, spherical or oblong. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon @ (Orgasol @ from Atochem), poly-ss-alanine powders, polyethylene powders, de powders acrylic polymer and in particular poly methyl methacrylate (PMMA) like that sold by
Wackherr under the reference Covabead LH-85 (particle size 10-12um), powders of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap @ from Dow Corning), polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon @) powders, lauroyl-lysine, boron nitride, starch, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel @ (Nobel Industry), carbonates such as precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads @ from Maprecos), glass microcapsules, ceramic microcapsules, polyester particles and mixtures thereof. These fillers can be treated on the surface, in particular to make them lipophilic.

The composition may optionally contain one or more waxes. A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above 45 ° C. and better still above 550 ° C. go up to 2000 C, and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Waxes, in the sense of demand, are those generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; they are in particular of natural origin such as beeswax, Carnauba wax,
Candellila, Ouricoury, Japan, cork or cane fiber, paraffin waxes, lignite, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax,

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 ozokerites, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, but also of synthetic origin such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and concrete glycerides at 40 ° C., silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and / or esters of solid poly (di) methylsiloxane at 400 ° C. Preferably, waxes of synthetic origin are used for reasons of reproducibility greater than that of waxes of natural origin.

permettant de mesurer la viscosité, parmi les mobiles MS-r3 et MS-r4, sur la base de ses connaissances générales, de manière à pouvoir réaliser la mesure du composé pâteux testé. The composition according to the invention also advantageously contains at least one fatty compound which is pasty at room temperature. By “pasty fatty substance” within the meaning of the invention is meant fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 to 55 ° C., preferably 25 to 45 ° C., and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 at 40 Pa. s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa. s, measured on Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80, equipped with a mobile rotating at 240 rpm. The skilled person can choose the mobile

allowing the viscosity to be measured, among the MS-r3 and MS-r4 mobiles, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the pasty compound tested.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use one or more pasty fatty substances. Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of the polymeric type; they can also be chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated compounds; it can also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated compounds.

Among the pasty compounds capable of being used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated lanolins, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa. S, preferably 19 at 20.5 Pa. s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 45 C and their mixtures. It is also possible to use fatty acid or alcohol esters, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 to 350C and / or viscosity at 40 C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. S) such as tri-isostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; cholesterol esters such as triglycerides of vegetable origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and their mixtures. As triglycerides of vegetable origin, it is possible to use derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, such as "THIXINR" from Rheox.

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55 C, such as stearyl dimethicones in particular those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names of DC2503 and DC25514, and their mixtures.

The pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in an amount of 0.1 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 1-45% by weight and even more preferably in an amount of 2- 30% by weight, in the composition, if they are present.

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In one embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention advantageously contains a liquid aqueous phase comprising in particular water and solvents miscible with water in any proportion such as polyols (glycerol, diglycerin, ethylene glycol ), monoalcohols lower in C2 to Cs, acetone, diketone, and their mixtures. The aqueous phase can represent from 0 to 75% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 5 to 50%.

In another embodiment of the invention, the liquid fatty phase in which the polymer is dispersed, can consist of any oil which is cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, and more generally physiologically acceptable, in particular chosen from oils of mineral origin , animal, plant or synthetic, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based, alone or as a mixture insofar as they form a homogeneous and stable mixture and where they are compatible with the intended use.

By "liquid fatty phase" is meant any non-aqueous medium which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

le cétanol, l'alcool stéarylique ou l'alcool oléique, l'alcool linoléique ou linoléique, l'alcool isostéarique ou l'octyl dodécanol ; les huiles siliconées telles que les polydiméthylsiloxanes (PDMS), éventuellement phénylés telles que les phényltriméthicones, ou éventuellement substitués par des groupements aliphatiques et/ou aromatiques, éventuellement fluorés, ou par des groupements fonctionnels tels que des groupements hydroxyle, thiol et/ou amine ; les polysiloxanes modifiés par des acides gras, des alcools gras ou des polyoxyalkylènes, les silicones fluorées, les huiles perfluorées. As liquid fatty phase which can be used in the invention, mention may therefore be made of hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin or petrolatum oil, mink, turtle, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil , calophyllum, palm, grapeseed, sesame, corn, parlam, arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or germ of cereals; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, auric acid, stearic acid; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin or diglycerin triisostearate ; higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as

cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleic alcohol, linoleic or linoleic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyl dodecanol; silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), optionally phenylated such as phenyltrimethicones, or optionally substituted by aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones, perfluorinated oils.

One or more volatile oils can optionally be used at room temperature.

By "volatile oil phase" is meant any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips or the fibers, at room temperature. This volatile phase comprises in particular oils having a vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure ranging from 10-3 to 300mm of Hg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa). These volatile oils facilitate, in particular, the application of the composition to the skin, the mucous membranes, the keratin fibers. These oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils optionally comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups or at the end of the silicone chain, fluorinated oils.

As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising

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 optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms as well as Cg-Cie isoparaffins. These are you! ati) es represent in particular from 5 to 97.5% of the total weight of the composition, and better still from 20 to 75%. As volatile oil used in the invention include in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane or isoparaffins such as Cg-C les'ISOPARs', and in particular the Permetyls isododecane.

According to the invention, the liquid fatty phase described above can constitute a continuous phase of the composition or else a dispersed phase. Another possible phase is an aqueous phase containing water and optionally water-soluble solvents such as lower alcohols.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention is of the W / O or O / W type.

These emulsions can be obtained using a surfactant or a mixture of surfactants whose HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic balance) is adapted to the direction of the emulsion.

polyoxyéthylénés ; les alkyl (lauryl, cétyl, stéaryl, octyl) éthers polyoxyéthylénés et les diméthicones copolyols ; et leurs mélanges. De façon générale, on peut utiliser tout tensioactif ionique (cationique ou anionique) amphotère et tout tensioactif non ionique, bien connu de l'homme du métier. As surfactant which can be used in the invention, suitable for obtaining a W / O emulsion, mention may be made of those having a lower HLB 7 and in particular the fatty acid esters of polyols such as mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleates or stearates of sorbitol or glycerol, glycerol or polyethylene glycol laurates; alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with an alkyl or alkoxy chain hanging or at the end of a silicone skeleton having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. As surfactant which can be used in the invention for obtaining an O / W emulsion, mention may be made of those having an HLB greater than 7 such as the fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (monostearate or polyethylene glycol monolaurate); fatty acid esters (stearate, oleate) of sorbitol

polyoxyethylenated; polyoxyethylenated alkyl (lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, octyl) ethers and dimethicone copolyols; and their mixtures. In general, any amphoteric ionic (cationic or anionic) surfactant and any nonionic surfactant, well known to those skilled in the art, can be used.

The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

More preferably, the composition is a composition of foundation or of lipstick or of eyeliner or of eyeshadow or of blush.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or keratin fibers of human beings, comprising the application to the skin and / or the keratin fibers of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition. as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also the use of at least one dispersion of particles comprising a phase at least in external part comprising at least one flexible polymer, with a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 60 C, preferably less than or equal at 40 ° C., and a phase at least partially internal of the rigid type, which is a crystallized or semi-crystalline, functionalized material, with a melting point greater than 400 ° C., preferably greater than 60 ° C., and which is such that the polymer flexible is fixed at least partially by chemical grafting on said phase, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, for

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 improve the hold and comfort of a film of said composition, applied to keratin materials.

By keratin materials is meant the skin such as the lips, as well as keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the hair.

The subject of the invention is also the use of at least one dispersion of particles comprising a phase at least in external part comprising at least one flexible polymer, with a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 60 C, preferably less than or equal at 40 C, and a phase at least partly internal of the rigid type, which is a crystallized or semi-crystalline material, functionalized, with a melting point greater than 40 C, preferably greater than 60 C, and which is such that the flexible polymer is fixed at least partially by chemical grafting on said phase, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, to reduce the transfer and / or the deposit of traces of a film of said composition, applied to keratin materials, on a support placed in contact with said film.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following example of foundation. The percentages are given in percentage by mass.

Example: Foundation
Particles of core / shell structure are chosen such that the external phase is formed of polymers and the melting temperature of the core is greater than 50 ° C. and the glass transition temperature of the shell is less than 40 ° C. with a core ratio / bark 50/50. Preparing the foundation formulation A of the following composition structured particles (dry extract) 20% pigments 7% dispersant (sold under the trade name Tamol731 DP by the company Rohm & Haas)
0.02% water qs
On the other hand, a control formula B is prepared without structured particles of the following composition: pigments 7% dispersant (sold under the trade name Tamol731 DP by the company Rohm & Haas)
0.02% water qs
After makeup, formulation A has remarkable hold and non-transfer properties while being comfortable unlike the control formula which transfers and does not hold.

Claims (20)

 CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic composition for making up and / or caring for keratin fibers and / or the skin, comprising at least one dispersion of particles comprising at least one phase of flexible type at least in external part comprising at least one flexible polymer, glass transition temperature less than or equal to 60 C, preferably less than or equal to 45 C, and at least one phase of rigid type at least in internal part which is a crystallized or semi-crystalline material, functionalized, of higher melting point at 40 C, preferably greater than 60 C, and which is such that the flexible polymer is fixed at least partially by chemical grafting on said rigid type phase. 2. Composition according to claim 1 such that said flexible material is chosen from polyacrylics, polymethacrylics, polysiloxanes, polyamides, polyurethanes, polyolefins, polyesters, polyvinyl ethers, polyvinylthioethers, polyoxides and their combinations. 3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2 such that the particles are film-forming. 4. Composition according to the preceding claim such that the film obtained after drying of the composition is such that it has a maximum tensile stress (for a% elongation less than 100%) less than or equal to 10 MPa, preferably less than or equal to 5MPa. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the particles have a size of 1 nm to 10 µm, preferably from 10 nm to 1 µm. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the flexible type phase represents at least 1%, preferably at least 5%, and even more preferably at least 10%, even 25%, and up to 99,999. %, by volume relative to the total volume of the particle. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims such that the dispersion of particles is a dispersion in a hydrophilic medium. 8. Composition according to the preceding claim such that the dispersion is an aqueous dispersion. 9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6 such that the dispersion of particles is a dispersion in a lipophilic medium.  10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims such that said crystalline or semi-crystalline material is a wax.  11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9 such that the crystalline or semi-crystalline material is chosen from polyolefins, polyvinyls, polyvinylidenes, polyacrylics, polymethacrylics, polyvinyl alcohols, polyamides, polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyoxides, polysulfids, polysulfones and their associations. <Desc / Clms Page number 14> 12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9 such that the crystalline or semi-crystalline material is chosen from silica, titanium dioxide, alumina, talc, mica, kaolin, boron nitride, carbonates, hydroxyapatite, and mixtures thereof. 13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that said composition comprises from 0.01 to 50% of at least one coloring matter. 14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that said composition comprises from 0.01 to 50% of at least one additive. 15. Composition according to the preceding claim such that said additive is chosen from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, pasty products at room temperature, neutralizers, liposoluble or dispersible polymers in the medium, cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, anti-free radicals, dispersants and their mixtures. 16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that said composition is a lip makeup product, a care and / or treatment product for the face and / or the body, a foundation, a concealer product, an eyeshadow, a blush, a temporary tattoo product, a deodorant, a shampoo, a conditioner, an eye makeup product, or a keratin fiber care and makeup product. 17. Composition according to the preceding claim which is a composition of foundation or lipstick or of eyeliner or of eyeshadow or of blush. 18. Cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or keratin fibers of human beings, comprising the application to the skin and / or keratin fibers of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims. 19. Use of at least one dispersion of particles comprising an at least partially external phase comprising at least one flexible polymer, with a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 60 C, preferably less than or equal to 40 C, and a phase at least partially rigid type internal, which is a crystallized or semi-crystalline, functionalized material, with a melting point greater than 40 C, preferably greater than 60 C, and which is such that the flexible polymer is fixed at least partially by chemical grafting on said phase, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, to improve the hold and the comfort of a film of said composition, applied to keratin materials. 20. Use of at least one dispersion of particles comprising an at least partially external phase comprising at least one flexible polymer, with a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 60 ° C., preferably less than or equal to 40 C, and a phase at least partially internal of the rigid type, which is a crystallized or semi-crystalline material, functionalized, with a melting point greater than 40 C, preferably greater than 600 C, and which is such that the flexible polymer is fixed at least partially by chemical grafting on said phase, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, <Desc / CRUD Page number 15>  to reduce the transfer and / or deposit of traces of a film of said composition, applied to keratin materials, on a support placed in contact with said film.