FR2820035A1 - REDUCING COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATINIC MATERIALS COMPRISING A CATIONIC POLY (VINYLLACTAM) - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous materials comprising in a carrier suited for the keratinous materials: (i) at least a reducing agent and (ii) at least a cationic poly(vinyllactam), and its used for bleaching and permanent waving of keratinous fibres. The invention also concerns methods and devices for bleaching and permanent waving of keratinous fibres using said composition.

Description

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The present application relates to a cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of keratinous substances comprising in a support suitable for keratin materials: (i) at least one reducing agent and, (ii) at least one reducing agent; ) at least one cationic poly (vinyllactam).

The present invention relates to a gelled reductive composition for the treatment of keratin materials comprising a cationic poly (vinyllactam) and its uses for the decolorization and permanent deformation of human keratinous fibers and more particularly the hair.

It is known to bleach keratinous fibers and in particular human hair, with bleaching compositions containing one or more oxidizing agents.

Among the oxidizing agents conventionally used, mention may be made of hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, hydrogen peroxide and persulfates being particularly preferred But it is also known to discolor human keratin fibers such as the hair and in particular the hair dyed artificially with exogenous dyes, using reducing agents such as acid ascorbic acid or thiols such as cysteine.

It is also known to carry out the permanent deformation of the hair by applying thereon compositions containing one or more reducing agents, the hair having preferably been previously put under tension, in particular using mechanical devices such as curlers, the hair thus reduced being then reoxidized in the desired form, most often after rinsing, via oxygen in the air, but more generally via an oxidant which is preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide or alkaline bromates.

Reducers preferentially used in the context of permanent hair deformation are thiols such as thioglycolic acid, its salts and esters, thiolactic acid and its salts, cysteine or cysteamine, and sulphites.

The compositions for bleaching hair with reducing agents are mainly in the form of ready-to-use compositions consisting of

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produits anhydres (poudres ou crèmes) contenant le ou les agents réducteurs que l'on mélange au moment de l'emploi avec une composition aqueuse contenant éventuellement un agent de pH. Les compositions de décoloration se présentent également sous forme de compositions prêtes à l'emploi aqueuses contenant le ou les agents réducteurs au pH approprié.

anhydrous products (powders or creams) containing the reducing agent or agents which are mixed at the time of use with an aqueous composition optionally containing a pH agent. The bleaching compositions are also in the form of aqueous ready-to-use compositions containing the reducing agent (s) at the appropriate pH.

The reducing compositions for the permanent deformation of the hair are generally in the form of ready-to-use aqueous compositions or in the form of powdery or liquid anhydrous compositions which are mixed at the time of use with an aqueous composition at the appropriate pH.

To locate the product of discoloration or permanent deformation to the application on the hair, so that it does not run on the face or outside the areas that we propose to treat, so far we have resorted to the use of conventional thickeners such as crosslinked polyacrylic acid, hydroxyethylcelluloses, certain polyurethanes, waxes, and moreover, in the case of bleaching compositions, mixtures of nonionic surface-active agents of HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), which suitably selected, cause the gelling effect when diluted with water and / or surfactants.

In addition, cosmetic formulations in the form of transparent gels have been sought for many years. This type of presentation is highly appreciated by the consumer for aesthetic reasons and for reasons of ease and comfort of use.

The gel form most often corresponds to a practical concern for the formulator: facilitating the taking of the product out of its packaging without significant loss, limiting the spread of the product to the local treatment zone and being able to use it in sufficient quantities to obtain the desired cosmetic effect. This objective is important for reducing formulations used in discoloration or permanent deformation of the hair. These should spread well and spread evenly along the keratinous fibers and do not run on the forehead, the neck, the face or in the eyes.

The Applicant has found that thickening systems previously used do not allow to obtain discolorations or permanent deformations sufficiently powerful and homogeneous.

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Par ailleurs, elle a également constaté que les compositions de décoloration ou de déformation permanente des cheveux, prêtes à l'emploi, contenant le ou les agents réducteurs, et en outre les systèmes épaississants de l'art antérieur ne permettaient pas une application suffisamment précise sans coulures ni chutes de viscosité dans le temps.

Moreover, it has also found that the compositions of discoloration or permanent deformation of the hair, ready for use, containing the reducing agent (s), and in addition the thickening systems of the prior art did not allow a sufficiently precise application without drips or drops in viscosity over time.

However, after extensive research conducted on the question, the Applicant has now discovered that it is possible to obtain compositions for bleaching or permanent deformation of hair containing at least one reducing agent, ready for use, under form of gels that do not flow and therefore remain well localized at the point of application, and which also allow to obtain permanent and strong discolorations or permanent deformations, if we introduce into the composition an effective amount of a poly (vinyllactam) ) cationic.

These findings are the basis of the present invention.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended for the treatment of keratinous substances comprising in a support which is suitable for keratin materials: (i) at least one reducing agent and (ii) at least one poly (vinyllactam) ) cationic.

The invention also relates to the use of these cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers as thickening and / or gelling agents in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising at least one reducing agent.

The subject of the present invention is therefore the use of these cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers in a ready-to-use composition for the decolorization or the permanent deformation of human keratin fibers and in particular the hair, comprising, in a medium suitable for discoloration or permanent deformation, at least one reducing agent.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "ready-to-use composition" is intended to mean the composition intended to be applied as it is to the keratinous fibers, that is to say that it may be stored as it is before use or as a result of extemporaneous mixture of two or more compositions.

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Lorsque la composition prête à l'emploi résulte du mélange extemporané de plusieurs compositions, le polymère selon l'invention peut être présent dans une ou plusieurs ou dans la totalité des compositions mélangées.

When the ready-to-use composition results from the extemporaneous mixing of several compositions, the polymer according to the invention may be present in one or more or in all of the mixed compositions.

In this way, the cationic poly (vinyllactam) according to the invention may be present in an anhydrous composition in the form of a powder, preferably a powder or a cream, and / or in one or more aqueous compositions.

Preferably according to the invention, the cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymer (s) according to the invention are present in at least one aqueous composition which is mixed at the moment of use with an aqueous or anhydrous composition in the form of a powder. or cream and containing at least one reducing agent.

Another preferred form of the invention is a single composition containing the reducing agent (s) and the cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymer (s) according to the invention.

Another object of the present invention is the use of these polymers in an anhydrous composition containing at least one reducing agent, said composition being intended to be diluted before application to the fibers.

The invention also relates to a process for bleaching and a method of permanent deformation of human keratinous fibers and in particular the hair using the composition of permanent fading or deformation ready for use as described above, the application of said composition that can be followed, in the case of permanent deformation, by the application, optionally after rinsing, of an oxidizing composition.

The invention also relates to bleaching devices or "Kits" packaging containing such a ready-to-use composition.

Thus, a two-compartment device comprises a first compartment containing at least one anhydrous powder or cream or an aqueous composition, and the second compartment an aqueous composition, at least one of the two compartments containing at least one reducing agent and the at least one of the two compartments containing at least one cationic poly (vinyllactam) according to the invention.

But other features, aspects, objects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

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Without wishing to be bound by any theory, it would appear that the advantages provided by the cationic poly (vinyllactam) according to the present invention and as defined below are related to a behavior of associative type thickening polymers.

Associative polymers are polymers whose molecules are capable, in the formulation medium, of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds.

Their chemical structure generally comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone, the hydrophobic zone or zones comprising at least one fatty chain.

dans lesquelles : X désigne un atome d'oxygène ou un radical NR6, R1 et R6 désignent, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyl linéaire ou ramifié en Cl-C5, R2 désigne un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en Cl-C4, R3, R4 et R5 désignent, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C1-C30 ou un radical de formule (III) :

Y, Y1 et Y2 désignent, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un radical alkylène linéaire ou ramifié en C2-C16, Cationic Polyvinyl Glucose Polymers According to the Invention The cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention comprise: a) at least one monomer of the vinyl lactam or alkylvinyllactam type; b) at least one monomer with the following structures (1) or (II):

in which: X denotes an oxygen atom or a radical NR6, R1 and R6 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, R2 denotes a radical linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (III):

Y, Y1 and Y2 denote, independently of one another, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical,

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R7 désigne un atome d'hydrogène, ou un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en Cl-C4 ou un radical hydroxyalkyle linéaire ou ramifié en Cl-C4, Ra désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en CI-C30, p, q et r désignent, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, soit la valeur zéro, soit la valeur 1, m et n désignent, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un nombre entier allant de 0 à 100, x désigne un nombre entier allant de 1 à 100, Z désigne un anion d'acide organique ou minéral, sous réserve que : - l'un au moins des substituants R3, R4, R5 ou R8 désigne un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en Cg-Cgn.

R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, Ra denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, p, q and r denote, independently of each other, either the value zero or the value 1, m and n denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 0 to 100, x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, Z denotes an organic or inorganic acid anion, provided that: - at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 denotes a linear or branched C8 alkyl radical; cgn.

 if m or n is different from zero, then q is equal to 1, if m or n are equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

The cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may also be block polymers.

Preferably, the Z-counterion of the monomers of formula (1) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, methosulphate ion and tosylate ion.

Preferably R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.

More preferably, the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (1) for which, even more preferably, m and n are equal to zero.

dans laquelle : s désigne un nombre entier allant de 3 à 6, Rg désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en CI-C5, Rio désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en Cl-C5, The vinyl lactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IV):

in which: s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6, R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 5 alkyl radical, R 10 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 5 alkyl radical,

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sous réserve que l'un au moins des radicaux Rg et R10 désigne un atome d'hydrogène.

with the proviso that at least one of Rg and R10 is a hydrogen atom.

Even more preferentially, the monomer (IV) is vinylpyrrolidone.

The cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or nonionic monomers.

As more particularly preferred compounds according to the invention, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least: a) a monomer of formula (IV), b) a monomer of formula (1) in which p = 1, q = 0, R3 and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 denotes a C9-C24 alkyl radical and c) a monomer of formula (II) ) in which R3 and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical.

Even more preferably, the terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40 to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% of monomer (b) will be used.

Such polymers are described in patent application WO-00/68282, the content of which forms an integral part of the invention.

dodécyldiméthylméthacrylamidopropylammonium, les terpolymères vinylpyrrolidone /diméthylaminopropylméthacrylamide/tosylate de cocoyldiméthylméthacrylamidopropylammonium, les terpolymères vinylpyrrolidone/ diméthylaminopropylméthacrylamide 1 tosylate ou chlorure de lauryidiméthylméthacrylamidopropylammonium. La masse moléculaire en poids des polymères poly (vinyllactame) cationiques selon la présente invention est de préférence comprise entre 500 et 20 000 000. Elle est plus particulièrement comprise entre 200 000 et 2 000 000 et encore plus préférentiellement comprise entre 400 000 et 800 000. As cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate terpolymers are especially used.

dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium terpolymers, terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate, terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide 1 tosylate or lauryidimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride. The weight-average molecular weight of the cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the present invention is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000. It is more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and even more preferentially between 400,000 and 800,000. .

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Les polymères poly (vinyllactame) cationiques conformes à l'invention sont présents dans les compositions dans des concentrations allant de 0, 01 à 30% en poids, plus préférentiellement de 0,1 à 10%, et plus particulièrement encore de 0,5 à 2%.

The cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10%, and more particularly from 0.5 to 2%.

Reducing agents The reducing agents that can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from thiols such as cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, their salts and their esters, cysteamine and its salts or sulphites.

In the case of bleaching compositions, it is also possible to use ascorbic acid, its salts and its esters, erythorbic acid, its salts and its esters, sulfinates such as sodium hydroxymethanesulfinate.

These reducing agents are used in the compositions according to the invention in concentrations of between about 0.1 and 30%, preferably between 0.5 and 20% by weight, by contribution to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one amphoteric polymer or a cationic polymer other than the cationic poly (vinyllactam) according to the present invention.

Cationic Polymers For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups.

The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in the patent application EP-A-337 354 and in the French patents 2,270,846, 2,383,660.2, 598,611.2, 470,596 and 2,519,863.

The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.

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The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5 × 10 6, and preferably between about 103 and 3 × 10 6.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers.

dans lesquelles : R3, identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical CH3 ; These are known products. They are especially described in French patents Nos. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among said polymers, mention may be made of: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of motifs of formulas (1), (li), (here) or (IV) below:

in which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

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A, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, de préférence 2 ou 3 atomes de carbone ou un groupe hydroxyalkyl de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ; R4, R5, R6, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone ou un radical benzyle et de préférence un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone ; R1 et R2, identiques ou différents, représentent hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone et de préférence méthyle ou éthyle ; X désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique tel qu'un anion méthosulfate ou un halogénure tel que chlorure ou bromure.

A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R1 and R2, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The polymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (Cl-C4). , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

- les terpolymères méthacrylate de diméthyl amino éthyle/vinylcaprolactame/ vinylpyrrolidone tel que le produit vendu sous la dénomination GAFFIX VC 713 par la société ISP, - les copolymère vinylpyrrolidone 1 méthacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine commercialisés notamment sous la dénomination STYLEZE CC 10 par ISP, Thus, among these polymers of family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl holognide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, - vinylpyrrolidone copolymers 1 acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or quaternized, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or the products referred to as "COPOLYMER 845,958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2,077. 143 and 2.393. 573

dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, the vinylpyrrolidone 1 methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,

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- et les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone 1 méthacrylamide de diméthylaminopropyle quaternisés tel que le produit vendu sous la dénomination"GAFQUAT HS 100"par la société ISP.

and the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP.

(2) The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl cellulose grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium.

The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch.

(4) The cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used.

Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL.

(5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2.162. 025 and 2.280. 361.

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(6) Les polyaminoamide solubles dans l'eau préparés en particulier par polycondensation d'un composé acide avec une polyamine ; ces polyaminoamide peuvent être réticulés par une épihalohydrine, un diépoxyde, un dianhydride, un dianhydride non saturé, un dérivé bis-insaturé, une bis-halohydrine, un bis-azétidinium, une bis-haloacyldiamine, un bis-halogénure d'alkyle ou encore par un oligomère résultant de la réaction d'un composé bifonctionnel réactif vis-à-vis d'une bis-halohydrine, d'un bisazétidinium, d'une bis-haloacyldiamine, d'un bis-halogénure d'alkyle, d'une épilhalohydrine, d'un diépoxyde ou d'un dérivé bis-insaturé ; l'agent réticulant étant utilisé dans des proportions allant de 0,025 à 0,35 mole par groupement amine du polyaminoamide ; ces polyaminoamide peuvent être alcoylés ou s'ils comportent une ou plusieurs fonctions amines tertiaires, quaternisées. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets français 2.252. 840 et 2.368. 508.

(6) water-soluble polyamino amines prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, a epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2,252. 840 and 2.368. 508.

(7) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583. 363.

Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

(8) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a Ticararboxy acid. It is chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents US 3,227. 615 and 2.961. 347.

Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.

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(9) Les cyclopolymères d'alkyl diallyl amine ou de dialkyl diallyl ammonium tels que les homopolymères ou copolymères comportant comme constituant principal de la chaîne des motifs répondant aux formules (V) ou (vil) :

formules dans lesquelles k et t sont égaux à 0 ou 1, la somme k + t étant égale à 1 ; Rg désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical méthyle ; R7 et Rg, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, désignent un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 22 atomes de carbone, un groupement hydroxyalkyle dans lequel le groupement alkyle a de préférence 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, un groupement amidoalkyle inférieur (Cl-C4), ou R7 et Ra peuvent désigner conjointement avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, des groupement hétérocycliques, tels que pipéridinyle ou morpholinyl ; R7 et Ra indépendamment l'un de l'autre désignent de préférence un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ; Y'est un anion tel que bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. Ces polymères sont notamment décrits dans le brevet français 2. 080. 759 et dans son certificat d'addition 2.190. 406.

(9) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (V) or (vil):

formulas in which k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; Rg denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R7 and Rg, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (Cl -C4), or R7 and Ra may designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R7 and Ra, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; It is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2.190. 406.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by Calgon (and its counterparts of low weight average molecular weight) and the copolymers of sodium chloride. diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT 550".

 (10) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units having the formula:

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formule (VII) dans laquelle : R10, R11, R12 et R13, identiques ou différents, représentent des radicaux aliphatiques, alicycliques, ou arylaliphatiques contenant de 1 à 20 atomes de carbone ou des radicaux hydroxyalkylaliphatiques inférieurs, ou bien Rlo, Rll, R12 et R13, ensemble ou séparément, constituent avec les atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés des hétérocycles contenant éventuellement un second hétéroatome autre que l'azote ou bien Rio. Rll, R12 et R13 représentent un radical alkyle en Cl-C6 linéaire ou ramifié substitué par un groupement nitrile, ester, acyle, amide ou -CO-O- R14-D ou-CO-NHR14-D où R14 est un alkylène et D un groupement ammonium quaternaire ; A1 et B1 représentent des groupements polyméthyléniques contenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, et pouvant contenir, liés à ou intercalés dans la chaîne principale, un ou plusieurs cycles aromatiques, ou un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène, de soufre ou des groupements sulfoxyde, sulfone, disulfure, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyle, ammonium quaternaire, uréido, amide ou ester, et X- désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique ; A1, Ro et R12 peuvent former avec les deux atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés un cycle pipérazinique ; en outre si A1 désigne un radical alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène

linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, B1 peut également désigner un groupement-

(CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) n--dans ! eque) n est compris entre 1 et 100 et de préférence

entre 1 et 50, et D désigne : a) un reste de glycol de formule :-0-Z-O-, où Z désigne un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié ou un groupement répondant à l'une des formules suivantes :

où x et y désignent un nombre entier de 1 à 4, représentant un degré de polymérisation défini et unique ou un nombre quelconque de 1 à 4 représentant un degré de polymérisation moyen ; b) un reste de diamine bis-secondaire tel qu'un dérivé de pipérazine ; c) un reste de diamine bis-primaire de formule :-NH-Y-NH-, où Y désigne un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou bien le radical bivalent

wherein R10, R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or Rlo, Rll, R12 and R13, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, constitute heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else Rio. R11, R12 and R13 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R14-D or -CO-NHR14-D group where R14 is alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more carbon atoms; oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A1, Ro and R12 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if A1 denotes an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, B1 may also designate a

(CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n - in! eque) n is between 1 and 100 and preferably

between 1 and 50, and D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-ZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:

where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical

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d) un groupement uréylène de formule :-NH-CO-NH-.

d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100000.

Polymers of this type are described in French patents 2,320. 330, 2.270. 846.2. 316.271, 2.336. 434 and 2.413. 907 and US Patents 2, 273780, 2,375. 853, 2.388. 614.2. 454,547, 3.206. 462.2. 261.002, 2.271. 378.3. 874, 870, 4.001. 432, 3.929. 990.3. 966.904, 4.005. 193, 4.025.617, 4.025. 627.4. 025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

dans laquelle R10 R11 R12 et R13 identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle ou hydroxyalkyl ayant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone environ, n et p sont des nombres entiers variant de 2 à 20 environ et, X- est un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique. It is more particularly possible to use polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (VIII):

in which R10 R11 R12 and R13 identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to about 20 and, X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

dans laquelle p désigne un nombre entier variant de 1 à 6 environ, D peut être nul ou peut représenter un groupement -(CH2)r-CO- dans lequel r désigne un nombre égal à 4 ou à 7, X- est un anion ; De tels polymères peuvent être préparés selon les procédés décrits dans les brevets U. S. A. no 4 157388, 4 702 906, 4 719 282. Ils sont notamment décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A-122 324. (11) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of repeating units of formula (IX):

wherein p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6, D may be zero or may represent a - (CH 2) r -CO- group in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, X- is an anion; Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described in US Pat. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906 and 4,719,282. They are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122,324.

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Parmi eux, on peut par exemp ! e citer,) es produits"Mirapo ! A 15","Mirapot AD1","Mirapoi AZl"et"Mirapol 175"vendus par la société Miranoi.

Among them, one can for example! The products "Mirapo! A 15", "Mirapot AD1", "Mirapoi AZl" and "Mirapol 175" sold by the company Miranoi.

(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B. A. S. F.

(13) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

(14) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate by methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE # SC 92" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE SC 95" and "SALCARE SC 96" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS.

Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of the families (1), (9), (10) (11) and (14) and even more preferentially the recurring pattern polymers of the following formulas (W) and (U):

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et notamment ceux dont le poids moléculaire, déterminé par chromatographie par perméation de gel, est compris entre 9500 et 9900 ;

et notamment ceux dont le poids moléculaire, déterminé par chromatographie par perméation de gel, est d'environ 1200.

and in particular those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is between 9500 and 9900;

and especially those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is about 1200.

The concentration of cationic polymer different from the cationic poly (vinyllactam) of the present invention in the composition according to the present invention may vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% and more preferably from 0.1 to 3%.

Amphoteric Polymers The amphoteric polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from polymers comprising K and M units statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where K denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and M denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, or K and M may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or of sulphobetaines; K and M may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon radical, or K and M are part of a chain of an α, β-dicarboxylic ethylene-based polymer having one of the carboxylic groups reacted with a polyamine having one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

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Les polymères amphotères répondant à la définition donnée ci-dessus plus particulièrement préférés sont choisis parmi les polymères suivants : (1) Les polymères résultant de la copolymérisation d'un monomère dérivé d'un composé vinylique portant un groupement carboxylique tel que plus particulièrement l'acide acrylique, l'acide méthacrylique, l'acide maléique, l'acide alpha-chloracrylique, et d'un monomère basique dérivé d'un composé vinylique substitué contenant au moins un atome basique tel que plus particulièrement les dialkylaminoalkylméthacrylate et acrylate, les dialkylaminoalkylméthacrylamide et acrylamide. De tels composés sont décrits dans le brevet américain n 3 836 537.

The amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers: (1) The polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide; and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in U.S. Patent No. 3,836,537.

Mention may also be made of the sodium acrylate / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the name Polyquart
KE 3033 by the company HENKEL.

The vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. Copolymers of acrylic acid and of the latter monomer are available under the names MERQUAT 280,
MERQUAT 295 and MERQUAT PLUS 3330 by the company CALGON.

 (2) polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl radical, b) with at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups reagents, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituent esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butyl-acrylamide and N-tert-octyl-acrylamide. N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.

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Les comonomères basiques préférés sont des méthacrylates d'aminoéthyle, de butyl aminoéthyle, de N, N'-diméthylaminoéthyle, de N-tertio-butylaminoéthyle.

Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.

The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) name is octylacrylamidoacrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used.

dans laquelle R19 représente un radical divalent dérivé d'un acide dicarboxylique saturé, d'un acide aliphatique mono ou dicarboxylique à double liaison éthylénique, d'un ester d'un alcanol inférieur ayant 1 à 6 atomes de carbone de ces acides ou d'un radical dérivant de l'addition de l'un quelconque desdits acides avec une amine bis primaire ou bis secondaire, et Z désigne un radical d'une polyalkylène-polyamine bis-primaire, mono ou bis-secondaire et de préférence représente : a) dans les proportions de 60 à 100 moles %, le radical

où x=2 et p=2 ou 3, ou bien x=3 et p=2 ce radical dérivant de la diéthylène triamine, de la triéthylène tétraamine ou de la dipropylène triamine ; b) dans les proportions de 0 à 40 moles % le radical (XI) ci-dessus, dans lequel x=2 et p=1 et qui dérive de l'éthylènediamine, ou le radical dérivant de la pipérazine :

c) dans les proportions de 0 à 20 moles % ! e radical-NH- (CH2) e-NH- dérivant de l'hexaméthylènediamine, ces polyaminoamines étant réticulées par addition d'un agent réticulant bifonctionnel choisi parmi les épihalohydrines, les diépoxydes, les dianhydrides, les dérivés bis insaturés, au moyen de 0,025 à 0,35 mole d'agent réticulant par groupement amine du polyaminoamide et alcoylés par action d'acide acrylique, d'acide chloracétique ou d'une alcane sultone ou de leurs sels. (3) Polyamino amide crosslinked and alkylated partially or totally derived from polyaminoamide of general formula:

wherein R19 represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an ethylenically double bonded mono or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid, an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a radical derived from the addition of any one of said acids with a primary bis or secondary bis amine, and Z denotes a radical of a bis-primary, mono or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the radical

where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this radical derived from diethylene triamine, triethylene tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the radical (XI) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the radical derived from piperazine:

c) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%! e-NH- (CH2) e-NH- radical derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by addition of a bifunctional crosslinking agent selected from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide and alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone or their salts.

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The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic acid and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic acid, terephthalic acid and ethylenic double bond such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid.

The sulfonated alkanes used in the alkylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.

dans laquelle R20 désigne un groupement insaturé polymérisable tel qu'un groupement acrylate, méthacrylate, acrylamide ou méthacrylamide, y et z représentent un nombre entier de 1 à 3, R21 et R22 représentent un atome d'hydrogène, méthyle, éthyle ou propyl, R23 et R24 représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle de telle façon que la somme des atomes de carbone dans R23 et R24 ne dépasse pas 10. (4) polymers having zwitterionic units of formula:

in which R 20 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer of 1 to 3, R 21 and R 22 represent a hydrogen, methyl, ethyl or propyl atom, R 23 and R24 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R23 and R24 does not exceed 10.

Polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.

By way of example, mention may be made of the copolymer of butyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by Sandoz.

 (5) polymers derived from chitosan comprising monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas (xi (XIV), (XV):

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le motif (XIII) étant présent dans des proportions comprises entre 0 et 30%, le motif (XIV) dans des proportions comprises entre 5 et 50% et le motif (XV) dans des proportions comprises entre 30 et 90%, étant entendu que dans ce motif (XV), R25 représente un radical de formule :

dans laquelle si q=0, R26, R27 et R28'identiques ou différents, représentent chacun un atome d'hydrogène, un reste méthyle, hydroxyle, acétoxy ou amino, un reste monoalcoylamine ou un reste dialcoylamine éventuellement interrompus par un ou plusieurs atomes d'azote et/ou éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupes amine, hydroxyle, carboxyle, alcoylthio, sulfonique, un reste alcoylthio dont le groupe alcoyle porte un reste amino, l'un au moins des radicaux R26, R27 et R28 étant dans ce cas un atome d'hydrogène ; ou si q=1, R26 R27 et R28 représentent chacun un atome d'hydrogène, ainsi que les sels formés par ces composés avec des bases ou des acides.

the unit (XIII) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (XIV) in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the unit (XV) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit (XV), R 25 represents a radical of formula:

in which if q = 0, R 26, R 27 and R 28, which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkyl amine residue optionally interrupted by one or more carbon atoms. nitrogen and / or optionally substituted with one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio, sulphonic groups, an alkylthio radical whose alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the radicals R26, R27 and R28 being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q = 1, R 26 R 27 and R 28 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.

 (6) The polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan sold under the name "Evalsan" by the company Jan Dekker.

 (7) The polymers corresponding to the general formula (XI) such as those described for example in the French patent 1,400,366:

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dans laquelle R29 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical CH30, CH3CH20,

phényle, R30 désigne l'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle inférieur tel que méthyle, éthyle, R31désigne l'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle inférieur tel que méthyle, éthyle, R32 désigne un radical alkyle inférieur tel que méthyle, éthyle ou un radical répondant à la

formule :-R33-N (R31) 2, R33 représentant un groupement-CH2-CH2-,-CH2-CH2-CH2- ,-CH2-CH (CH3)-, R31 ayant les significations mentionnées ci-dessus,

ainsi que les homologues supérieurs de ces radicaux et contenant jusqu'à 6 atomes de carbone, r est tel que le poids moléculaire est compris entre 500 et 6000000 et de préférence entre 1000 et 1000000.

in which R29 represents a hydrogen atom, a radical CH30, CH3CH20,

phenyl, R 30 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl, R 31 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl, R 32 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl or a radical corresponding to

formula: -R33-N (R31) 2, R33 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH (CH3) -, R31 having the meanings mentioned above,

as well as the higher homologues of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms, r is such that the molecular weight is between 500 and 6000000 and preferably between 1000 and 1000000.

(8) Amphoteric polymers of the -DXDX-type chosen from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:

où D désigne un radical

where D denotes a radical

et X désigne le symbole E ou E', E ou E'identiques ou différents désignent un radical bivalent qui est un radical alkylène à chaîne droite ou ramifiée comportant jusqu'à 7

and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E' the same or different denotes a divalent radical which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical of up to 7

<Desc / Clms Page number 23>

atomes de carbone dans la chaîne principale non substituée ou substituée par des groupements hydroxyle et pouvant comporter en outre des atomes d'oxygène, d'azote, de soufre, 1 à 3 cycles aromatiques et/ou hétérocycliques ; les atomes d'oxygène, d'azote et de soufre étant présents sous forme de groupements éther, thioéther, sulfoxyde, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkénylamine, des groupements hydroxyle, benzylamine, oxyde d'amine, ammonium quaternaire, amide, imide, alcool, ester et/ou uréthanne ; b) les polymères de formule :

où D désigne un radical

et X désigne le symbole E ou E'et au moins une fois E' ; E ayant la signification indiquée ci-dessus et E'est un radical bivalent qui est un radical alkylène à chaîne droite ou ramifiée ayant jusqu'à 7 atomes de carbone dans la chaîne principale, substitué ou non par un ou plusieurs radicaux hydroxyle et comportant un ou plusieurs atomes d'azote, l'atome d'azote étant substitué par une chaîne alkyle interrompue éventuellement par un atome d'oxygène et comportant obligatoirement une ou plusieurs fonctions carboxyle ou une ou plusieurs fonctions hydroxyle et bétaïnisées par réaction avec l'acide chloracétique ou du chloracétate de soude.

carbon atoms in the unsubstituted or hydroxyl-substituted chain and may further include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide groups, alcohol, ester and / or urethane; b) polymers of formula:

where D denotes a radical

and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E is a divalent radical which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals and having a or a plurality of nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an optionally interrupted alkyl chain by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betaineized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or chloroacetate of soda.

(9) The copolymers a) kyt (C -] - C5) viny) ether / anhydride ma! partially modified by semiamidation with N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with N, N-dialkanolamine.

These copolymers may also comprise other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.

The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (1).

According to the invention, the amphoteric polymer (s) may represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight. , the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the invention preferably comprise one or more surfactants.

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Le ou les tensioactifs peuvent être indifféremment choisis, seuls bu en mélanges, au sein des tensioactifs anioniques, amphotères, non ioniques, zwittérioniques et cationiques. Les tensioactifs convenant à la mise en oeuvre de la présente invention sont notamment les suivants : (i) Tensioactif (s) anionique (s) : A titre d'exemple de tensio-actifs anioniques utilisables, seuls ou mélanges, dans le cadre de la présente invention, on peut citer notamment (liste non limitative) les sels (en particulier sels alcalins, notamment de sodium, sels d'ammonium, sels d'amines, sels d'aminoalcools ou sels de magnésium) des composés suivants : les alkylsulfates, les

alkyléthersulfates, alkylamidoéthersulfates, alkylarylpolyéthersulfates, monoglycérides sulfates ; les alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-oléfine-sulfonates, paraffine-sulfonates ; les alkyl (C6-C24) sulfosuccinates, les alkyl (C6C24) éthersulfosuccinates, les alkyl (C6-C24) amidesulfosuccinates ; les alkyl (C6-C24) sulfoacétates ; les acyl (C6-C24) sarcosinates et les acyl (C6-C24) glutamates. On peut également utiliser les esters d'alkyl (C6-C24) polyglycosides carboxyliques tels que les alkylglucoside citrates, les alkylpolyglycoside tartrate et les alkylpolyglycoside

sulfosuccinates., les alkylsulfosuccinamates ; les acyliséthionates et les N-acyltaurates, le radical alkyle ou acyle de tous ces différents composés comportant de préférence de 12 à 20 atomes de carbone, et le radical aryl désignant de préférence un groupement phényle ou benzyl. Parmi les tensioactifs anioniques encore utilisables, on peut également citer les sels d'acides gras tels que les sels des acides oléique, ricinoléique, palmitique, stéarique, les acides d'huile de coprah ou d'huile de coprah hydrogénée ; les acyl-lactylates dont le radical acyle comporte 8 à 20 atomes de carbone. On peut également utiliser les acides d'alkyl D galactoside uroniques et leurs sels, les acides alkyl (C6-C24) éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés, les acides alkyl (C6-C24) aryl éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés, les acides alkyl (C6-C24) amido éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés et leurs sels, en particulier ceux comportant de 2 à 50 groupements oxyde d'alkylène en particulier d'éthylène, et leurs mélanges.

The surfactant or surfactants can be indifferently chosen, alone or in mixtures, in anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants. The surfactants that are suitable for carrying out the present invention are, in particular: (i) Anionic surfactant (s): As an example of anionic surfactants that can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the According to the present invention, mention may be made in particular (nonlimiting list) of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular of sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, the

alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6C24) alkylsulfosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylamidesulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulphoacetates; acyl (C6-C24) sarcosinates and acyl (C6-C24) glutamates. It is also possible to use (C6-C24) alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and alkylpolyglycoside

sulfosuccinates., alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, (C6-C24) alkyl amido acids. polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and mixtures thereof.

 (ii) Nonionic surfactant (s): Nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this connection "Handbook of Surfactants" by R. PORTER, editions

<Desc / Clms Page number 25>

Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) et leur nature ne revet pas, dans le cadre de la présente invention, de caractère critique. Ainsi, ils peuvent être notamment choisis parmi (liste non limitative) les alcools, les alpha-diols, les alkylphénols polyéthoxylés, polypropoxylés, ayant une chaîne grasse comportant par exemple 8 à 18 atomes de carbone, le nombre de groupements oxyde d'éthylène ou oxyde de propylène pouvant aller notamment de 2 à 50. On peut également citer les copolymères d'oxyde d'éthylène et de propylène, les condensats d'oxyde d'éthylène et de propylène sur des alcools gras ; les amides gras polyéthoxylés ayant de préférence de 2 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, les amides gras polyglycérolés comportant en moyenne 1 à 5 groupements glycérol et en particulier 1,5 à 4 ; les amines grasses polyéthoxylées ayant de préférence 2 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène ; les esters d'acides gras du sorbitan oxyéthylénés ayant de 2 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène ; les esters d'acides gras du sucrose, les esters d'acides gras du polyéthylèneglycol, les alkylpolyglycosides, les dérivés de N-alkyl glucamin, les oxydes d'amines tels que les oxydes d'alkyl (Cl 0-C14) amines ou les oxydes de N-acylaminopropylmorpholine.

Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not critical in the context of the present invention. Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, polyethoxylated alkylphenols, polypropoxylated, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide which may range from 2 to 50. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucoside derivatives, amine oxides such as (C 10 -C 14) alkyl oxides, or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.

alkyl (C8-C20) bétaïnes, les sulfobétaïnes, les alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (Ci-Ce) betaïnes ou les alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (Cl-C6) sulfobétaïnes. (iii) Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s): Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the nature of which does not take place in the context of the present invention of a critical nature, may especially be (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate); we can still mention the

alkyl (C8-C20) betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylbetaines or (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylsulfobetaines.

Amphocarboxyglycinates et Amphocarboxypropionates de structures respectives :

Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in US Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names

Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures:

dans laquelle : R2 désigne un radical alkyle d'un acide R2-COOH présent dans l'huile de

coprah hydrolysée, un radical heptyl, nonyle ou undécyle, R3 désigne un groupement bêta-hydroxyéthyle et R4 un groupement carboxyméthyle ;

in which: R2 denotes an alkyl radical of a R2-COOH acid present in the oil of

hydrolyzed coconut, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group;

<Desc / Clms Page number 26>

et

and

dans laquelle :

B représente-CHCHOX', C représente - (CH2} z -Y', avec z = 1 ou 2,

X'désigne le groupement-CH2CH2-COOH ou un atome d'hydrogène Y'désigne-COOH ou le radica !-CH2-CHOH-S03H Ri désigne un radical alkyle d'un acide Rg-COOH présent dans l'huile de coprah ou dans l'huile de lin hydrolysée, un radical alkyle, notamment en C7, Cg, C11 ou C13, un radical alkyle en C17 et sa forme iso, un radical Cul 7 insaturé.

in which :

B represents-CHCHOX ', C represents - (CH2) z -Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X 'denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom Y'digne-COOH or the radica! -CH2-CHOH-SO3H R1 denotes an alkyl radical of an Rg-COOH acid present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular C 7, C 8, C 11 or C 13, a C 17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated Cul 7 radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic Acid, Cocoamphodipropionic Acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOLO C2M concentrated by the company Rhodia Chimie.

 (iv) Cationic surfactants: Among the cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list): primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character.

The amounts of surfactants present in the composition according to the invention may vary from 0.01 to 40% and preferably from 0.5 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the ready-to-use composition is generally between about 1.5 and 12.

<Desc / Clms Page number 27>

More preferably, the pH of the compositions of the invention ready for use for bleaching is between about 1.5 and 10, and even more preferably between about 1.5 and 7.

More preferably, the pH of the compositions of the invention ready for use for permanent deformation is between about 6 and 12 and even more preferably between about 7 and 11.

This pH can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents well known in the state of the art in discoloration or permanent deformation of keratinous fibers.

dans laquelle R est un reste propylène éventuellement substitué par un groupement hydroxyle ou un radical alkyle en Ci-C4 ; R38, R39, R4o et R41, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en Ci-C4 ou hydroxyalkyl en Ci-C4. Among the alkalinizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, alkali or ammonium carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, hydroxyalkylamines and ethylene-diamines ethoxylated and or oxypropylenes, the hydroxides of sodium or of potassium and the compounds of formula (XIX) below:

wherein R is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; R38, R39, R40 and R41, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical.

The acidifying agents are conventionally, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or acids. sulfonic.

The basifying or acidifying agents may represent about 0.01 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the bleaching or permanent deformation composition.

The compositions of the invention may also contain sequestering agents such as, for example, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA).

Additional Thickeners The compositions according to the invention may also contain other rheology adjusting agents such as cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, etc.), gum

<Desc / Clms Page number 28>

guar et ses dérivés (hydroxypropylgùar..), les gommes d'origine microbienne (gomme de xanthane, gomme de scléroglucane..), les épaississants synthétiques tels que les homopolymères réticulés d'acide acrylique ou d'acide acrylamidopropanesulfonique et les polymères associatifs ioniques ou non ioniques tels que les polymères commercialisés sous les appellations PEMULEN TR1 ou TR2 par la société GOODRICH, SALCARE SC90 par la société ALLIED COLLOIDS, ACULYN 22,28, 33,44, ou 46 par la société ROHM & HAVAS et ELFACOS T210 et T212 par la société AKZO.

guar and its derivatives (hydroxypropylglutar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, etc.), synthetic thickeners such as crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid and ionic associative polymers or nonionic polymers such as the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TR1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich, Salcare SC90 by the company Allied Colloids, Aculyn 22,28, 33,44, or 46 by the company Rohm & Havas and Elfacos T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.

These auxiliary thickeners may represent from 0.01 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

When the compositions containing the reducing agent and the cationic poly (vinyllactam) according to the invention are in anhydrous form (powder or cream), they contain the main agents and additives mentioned above in the form of solids or liquids essentially. anhydrous.

monométhyléther de propylèneglycol, le butylèneglycol, le dipropylèneglycol ainsi que les alkyléthers de diéthylèneglycol comme par exemple, le monoéthyléther ou le monobutyléther du diéthylèneglycol. Les solvants peuvent alors être présents dans des concentrations comprises entre environ 0,5 et 20% et, de préférence, entre environ 2 et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. When the medium containing the reducing agent is an aqueous medium, it may optionally contain cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, more particularly, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example,

propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. The solvents can then be present in concentrations of between approximately 0.5 and 20% and, preferably, between approximately 2 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The bleaching or permanent deformation composition according to the invention may also contain an effective amount of other agents, moreover previously known in discoloration or in permanent deformation of the keratinous fibers.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above, in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition for bleaching or permanent deformation of the keratinous fibers according to the invention not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions envisaged.

<Desc / Clms Page number 29>

De préférence, le procédé de décoloration selon l'invention consiste à appliquer la composition réductrice prête à l'emploi, sur les fibres kératiniques sèches ou humides, et à la laisser agir pendant un temps de pause variant, de préférence, de 1 à 60 minutes environ, et plus préférentiellement de 10 à 45 minutes environ, à rincer les fibres, puis éventuellement à les laver au shampooing, puis à les rincer à nouveau, et à les sécher.

Preferably, the bleaching process according to the invention consists in applying the ready-to-use reducing composition to the dry or moist keratinous fibers and in letting it act for a rest period, preferably varying from 1 to 60 hours. minutes, and more preferably from 10 to 45 minutes, rinsing the fibers, then possibly washing them with shampoo, then rinsing again, and drying.

Preferably, the permanent deformation process according to the invention consists in applying the ready-to-use reducing composition to the dry or moist keratinous fibers, allowing it to act for a pause time varying, preferably from 1 to 60 minutes. approximately, and more preferably from 10 to 45 minutes, to optionally rinse the fibers, then to apply an oxidizing composition and leave to act for a pause of between 1 and 20 minutes and preferably between 1 and 10 minutes, then optionally to wash them with shampoo, then rinse them again, and dry them.

Mechanical means for tensioning the keratinous fibers may be used before, during or after application of the reducing composition and removed before or after rinsing the oxidizing composition.

Concrete examples illustrating the invention are given below, without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE 1 The following ready-to-use aqueous decolorization composition (amounts expressed in grams) was prepared:

<Tb>
<tb> Citric acid <SEP> 7.4
<tb> Trisodium citrate <SEP><SEP> dihydrate ...... <SEP> 1
<tb> Hydroxyethylcellulose .............. <SEP> 1,5
<tb><SEP> 2-oxoglutaric acid <SEP> 0.8
<tb> Ascorbate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> 5.7
<tb> L-cysteine <SEP> 2
<tb> Polymer <SEP> according to <SEP> the invention ** ... <SEP> 0.3 <SEP> MA *
<tb> Sulfate <SEP> of <SEP> Magnesium ............. <SEP> 1
<tb> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100
<tb> MA * = <SEP> Material <SEP> Active
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 30>

Le polymère selon l'invention** est un terpolymère vinylpyrrolidone diméthylaminopropylméthacrylamide/chlorure de lauryidiméthylméthacrylamidoammonium proposé par la Société ISP sous la référence POLYMERACP-1234.

The polymer according to the invention ** is a terpolymer vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryidimethylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride proposed by the company ISP under the reference POLYMERACP-1234.

The above bleaching composition has allowed for regular discoloration of artificially dyed hair by oxidation dyeing.

EXAMPLE 2 The following permanent deformation composition (quantities expressed in grams) was prepared:

<Tb>
<tb> Thioglycolic acid <SEP> ................ <SEP> 9.2
<tb> Ammonia <SEP> to <SEP> 20% <SEP> of <SEP> NH3 ..... <SEP> 9, <SEP> 3
<tb> Carbonate <SEP> Ammonium <SEP> 4,5
<tb> Cocoylamidopropylbetaine /
<tb> Monolaurate <SEP> of <SEP> glycerol
<tb> (25/5) ................................... <SEP> 0.4MA *
<tb> EDTA <SEP> 0, <SEP> 4
<tb> Cationic <SEP> Polymer <SEP> of <SEP> Formula
<tb> W <SEP> in <SEP> solution <SEP> to <SEP> 60% <SEP> in
<tb> water <SEP> 1 <SEP> MA *
<tb> Polymer <SEP> according to <SEP> the invention ** ...... <SEP> 0.3 <SEP> MA *
<tb> Water ........................ <SEP> qsp ...... <SEP> 100
<tb> MA * <SEP> = <SEP> Material <SEP> Active
<Tb>
The polymer according to the invention ** is a terpolymer vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride proposed by the company ISP under the reference POLYMERACP-1234.

The permanent deformation composition above was applied for 15 minutes on wet hair previously wound on styling rollers, then rinsed thoroughly with water. An 8-volume hydrogen peroxide solution of pH 3 was then applied for 5 minutes, then rinsed again, the rollers removed and dried.

The hair presented a beautiful uniform crimp.

<Desc / Clms Page number 31>

EXAMPLE 3 The following ready-to-use aqueous decolorization composition (amounts expressed in grams) was prepared:

<Tb>
<tb> Polymer <SEP> according to <SEP> the invention ** <SEP> 1
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> isostearyl <SEP> (TEGO <SEP> ALKANOL <SEP> 66 <SEP> sold <SEP> by <SEP>
<tb> company <SEP> GOLDSCHMIDT) <SEP> 12
<tb> Benzyl <SEP> alcohol <SEP> 10
<tb> Hydroxymethane <SEP> sulfinate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> 7
<tb> Adjusted <SEP> to <SEP> pH ...................................... .................... <SEP> 3
<tb> Demineralized <SEP> Water <SEP> q. <SEP> s. <SEP> p <SEP> 100
<Tb>

Le polymère selon l'invention** est un terpolymère vinylpyrrolidone diméthylaminopropylméthacrylamide/chlorure de lauryldiméthylméthacrylamidoammonium proposé par la Société ISP sous la référence POLYMER ACP-1234.

The polymer according to the invention ** is a terpolymer vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride proposed by the company ISP under the reference POLYMER ACP-1234.

The above bleaching composition was applied to natural gray hair with 90% of whites, previously colored by the shade 20 (coppery) of L'OREAL MOVI DA range with a bath ratio of 10 g per 1 g of hair.

After 30 minutes of installation, the locks were rinsed and dried.

The coppery reflection disappeared, revealing the hair as it was before the application of the dye.

On a préparé la composition réductrice suivante (exprimée en grammes) :

EXAMPLE 4

The following reducing composition (expressed in grams) was prepared:

<Tb>
<tb> Thioglycolic acid <SEP> .......................................... .............. <SEP> 9.2
<tb> Arginine .............................................. ...................... <SEP> 15
<tb> Ammonia <SEP> to <SEP> 20% <SEP> of NH3 <SEP> 9, <SEP> 3
<tb> Ammonium carbonate <SEP><SEP> 4, <SEP> 5
<tb> Cocoylamidopropylbetaine / monolaurate <SEP> of <SEP> glycerol <SEP> (25/5) <SEP> en
<tb> aqueous <SEP> solution <SEP> to <SEP> 30% <SEP> 1,3
<tb> Peptisant <SEP> 0.8
<Tb>

<Desc / Clms Page number 32>

<Tb>
<tb> Polymer <SEP> according to <SEP> the invention **
<tb> Alcohol <SEP> isostearyl <SEP> (TEGO <SEP> ALKANOL <SEP> 66 <SEP> sold <SEP> by <SEP>
<tb> company <SEP> GOLDSCHMIDT) <SEP> 12
<tb> Agent <SEP> Sequestering <SEP> 0.4
<tb> Fragrance <SEP> 0, <SEP> 4
<tb> Demineralized <SEP> Water <SEP> q. <SEP> s. <SEP> p <SEP> 100
<Tb>
The polymer according to the invention ** is a terpolymer vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride proposed by the company ISP under the reference POLYMER ACP-1234.

This reducing composition was applied to a lock of damp hair, previously wound on a curler 9 mm in diameter.

After 10 minutes of break time, it was thoroughly rinsed with water.

An oxidizing composition (oxygenated water 8 volumes of pH = 3) was then applied. After 10 minutes of pause time, the wick was rinsed again abundantly. Then we unrolled the curler's hair and dried it.

 The wick was wavy.

Claims (34)

 Y, Y1 and Y2 denote, independently of one another, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical, R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyalkyl radical; linear or branched C1-C4, Ra denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, p, q and r denote, independently of one another, either the zero value, or the value 1, m and n denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 0 to 100, x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, Z denotes an organic or mineral acid anion,

 in which X denotes an oxygen atom or a radical NR6, R1 and R6 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, R2 denotes an alkyl radical; linear or branched C1-C4, R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (III):

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for the treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises in a suitable carrier for keratin materials: (i) at least one reducing agent and, (ii) a poly ( cationic vinyllactam) comprising: - a) at least one monomer of vinyl lactam or alkylvinyllactam type; b) at least one monomer with the following structures (1) or (II): <Desc / Clms Page number 34>  with the proviso that: at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or Ra denotes a linear or branched C8-C18 alkyl radical.

 if m or n is different from zero, then q is equal to 1, if m or n are equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the vinyl lactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is a compound of structure (IV):

 in which: s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6, Rg denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical, R10 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical, provided that at least one of the radicals Rg and R10 denotes a hydrogen atom. 3. Composition according to claim 2 characterized in that the monomer of formula (IV) is vinylpyrrolidone. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized

 in that in the formulas (1) or (11), the radicals R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (1). 6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that in formula (1), m and n are equal to zero. <Desc / Clms Page number 35>

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the counterion Z- of the monomers of formula (1) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, methosulphate ion, tosylate ion. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymer (s) contain one or more additional cationic or nonionic monomers. 9. Composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that the cationic poly (vinyllactam) is a terpolymer comprising: a) a monomer of formula (IV), b) a monomer of formula (1) in which p = 1 , q = O, R3 and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 denotes a C9-C24 alkyl radical and c) a monomer of formula (II) wherein R3 and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C8 alkyl radical. 10. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the terpolymer comprises, by weight, 40 to 95% of monomer (a), 0.25 to 50% of monomer (b) and 0.1 to 55% of monomer ( c). 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic poly (vinyllactam) are chosen from terpolymers.

 vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate, terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate, terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate or jauryidimethylimethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight-average molecular weight of the cationic poly (vinyllactam) is between 500 and 20,000,000, preferably between 200,000 and 2,000,000, and more preferably between 400,000 and 800,000. <Desc / Clms Page number 36>

 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic poly (vinyllactam) is used in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to Claim 13, characterized in that the cationic poly (vinyllactam) is used in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the cationic poly (vinyllactam) is used in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from thiols such as

 cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, their salts and esters, cysteamine and its salts, sulphites, ascorbic acid, its salts and esters, erythorbic acid, its salts and esters. 17. Composition according to Claim 16, characterized in that the concentration of reducing agent may vary from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 18. Composition according to Claim 17, characterized in that it may vary from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one amphoteric polymer or a cationic polymer other than the cationic poly (vinyllactam) defined according to claims 1-12. 20. Composition according to Claim 19, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a poly (quaternary ammonium) consisting of repeating units corresponding to the following formula (W): <Desc / Clms Page number 37>

 21. Composition according to Claim 19, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a poly (quaternary ammonium) consisting of repeating units corresponding to the following formula (U):

 22. A composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer is a copolymer comprising at least as monomers of acrylic acid and a diméthyidiallylammonium salt. 23. Composition according to any one of claims 19 to 22, characterized in that the cationic or amphoteric polymer or polymers represent from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. 24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants. 25. Composition according to Claim 24, characterized in that the surfactants represent 0.01 to 40% and preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. 26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further contains at least one basifying or acidifying agent in amounts ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition. <Desc / Clms Page number 38>

27. A composition according to claim 26, characterized in that the basifying agent is chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, hydroxyalkylamines and ethylenediamines. oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, hydroxides of sodium or potassium and compounds of formula (XIX) below:

 in which R is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; R38, R39, R40 and R41, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a Croc4 hydroxyalkyl radical. 28. A composition according to claim 26, characterized in that the acidifying agent is selected from inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or sulphonic acids. 29. A process for preparing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 28, characterized in that extemporaneously mixed at the time of use an anhydrous composition containing at least one reducing agent and at least one an aqueous composition, at least one of the anhydrous or aqueous compositions containing at least one cationic poly (vinyllactam) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12. 30. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 28, characterized in that it is anhydrous and intended for the bleaching or deformation of human keratin fibers and more particularly the hair. 31. Composition according to claim 30, characterized in that the anhydrous composition is in powder form. 32. A process for bleaching or permanent deformation of human keratinous fibers and more particularly the hair, consisting in applying to the fibers, dry or wet, a ready-to-use composition containing, in a suitable medium <Desc / Clms Page number 39>  for the decolorization, at least one reducing agent and at least one cationic poly (vinyllactam) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, and allowing it to act for a pause time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, and preferably from 10 to 45 minutes, optionally rinsing the fibers, washing them with shampoo, then rinsing them again, and drying them, the application of said composition can be followed, in the case of permanent deformation, by the application, optionally after rinsing, of an oxidizing composition which is allowed to act for a pause of between 1 and 20 minutes and preferably between 1 and 10 minutes, then it is washed optionally with shampoo, rinsed again and we dry.

33. Device with two compartments or Kit for the decolorization or the permanent deformation of human keratinous fibers and more particularly the hair, characterized in that the first compartment contains at least one powder or an aqueous composition, and the second compartment an aqueous composition at least one of the two compartments containing at least one reducing agent and at least one of the two compartments containing at least one cationic poly (vinyllactam) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12. 34. Use as a thickening and / or gelling agent in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising at least one reducing agent, of a cationic poly (vinyllactam) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 12.