FR2792328A1 - Oily composition for use in cosmetic formulations comprises paraffinic hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane and a composition rich in lipids of vegetable origin - Google Patents

Abstract

Oily substances for use in cosmetics comprising paraffinic hydrocarbons, e.g. isohexadecane and a composition rich in lipids of vegetable origin. Oily materials comprising paraffinic hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane and a composition (I) rich in lipids of vegetable origin.

Description

OILY MATERIAL COMPRISING HYDROCARBONS

  PARAFFINICS AND AN ORIGINAL FAT RICH COMPOUND

  VEGETABLE, ITS PREPARATION AND THE COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING IT.

  The present invention relates to an oily material useful for the preparation of cosmetic and dermatological compositions having remarkable nourishing and moisturizing properties, as well as said cosmetic and dermatological compositions, in particular shampoos, soaps, gels, milk and cream or

  still make-up or make-up removal products.

  The research carried out by the applicant on the extraction of compounds, in particular of lipidic nature, contained in plants and more particularly cereals and cereal flour such as wheat, have enabled it to obtain compounds rich in lipids from vegetable origin likely to enter into the composition of oily matter useful for the preparation of products

cosmetic and dermatological.

  Consequently, the present invention relates to an oily material comprising parrafinic hydrocarbons, such as in particular isohexadecane and a

  compound rich in lipids of plant origin.

  The compound rich in lipids of plant origin, also designated below LIPOWHEAT, used in the composition of the oily material of the invention, comprises more than 50% and advantageously more than 80% by weight of lipids. This compound has a remarkable composition of polar lipids. It comes in the form of a fine oily powder or slightly yellow flakes, without flavor, with a characteristic odor. This compound rich in lipids of vegetable origin comprises of the order of 50 to 65% of glycolipids including glycosylceramides. It comprises from to 12% and preferably from 8 to 10% of ceramides including the glycosylceramides. This compound rich in lipids of vegetable origin advantageously comprises of the order of 20 to 40% and

2 2792328

  to 40% and preferably of the order of 30 to 35% of phospholipids. This compound has the advantage of comprising less than 1% and even no neutral lipid. A preferred example of lipid composition of such a compound is as follows: - Neutral lipids essentially triglycerides <1% Phospholipids: 30 to 35% - Glycolipids: 50 to 55%

  - Ceramides and glycosylceramides 8 to 10%.

  The oily material according to the invention preferably comprises from 1 to 10% and advantageously from 2 to 5% of at least one compound rich in lipids of plant origin defined above. The oily material is prepared by dispersing

  LIPOWHEAT in parrafinic hydrocarbons.

  The oily material according to the invention constitutes an oil enriched in polar lipid useful for the

  preparation of liquid, semi-cosmetic compositions

  liquid or solid, such as foaming products, emulsions, make-up or make-up removing products. Indeed, the presence of a compound rich in lipids of vegetable origin in the oily substance of the invention gives these compositions remarkable hydration capacities of the skin. The subject of the invention is therefore such compositions comprising one or more agents cosmetologically, dermatologically or pharmaceutically

  active in one or more acceptable vehicles.

  The invention relates for example to shampoos, shower gels and liquid soap comprising the oily material of the invention. The presence of ceramides and glycosylceramides in these shampoos makes it possible to give the hair the desired shine and provides a sheathing effect, while nourishing the hair. Liquid gels and soaps have moisturizing and

nourishing for the skin.

  The invention therefore relates very particularly to hair compositions, such as lotions, gels, emulsions, comprising an oily phase consisting of

oily material of the invention.

3 2792328

  The invention naturally relates to emulsions comprising an oil phase comprising the oily material of the invention. These are, for example, moisturizing creams and milks, sun creams and milks which have reinforced anti-radicallary properties due to the compound

  rich in polar lipids present in oily matter.

  The invention also relates to makeup products such as lipsticks, mascara, funds

complexion.

  Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear from the examples which follow which relate to the preparation of the lipid-rich compound of vegetable origin used in the composition of the emulsifying agent and the preparation of an oily material according to the invention. 1) Preparation of the lipid-rich compound of plant origin used in the composition of the agent

emulsifier.

  A process for the preparation of a compound rich in lipids of vegetable origin comprises the following stages: a) Extraction of total lipids: A vegetable compound such as cereal flour or a product resulting from the transformation of cereals, such as gluten, in a solvent or a mixture of polar solvents, in a ratio of 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 5, at a temperature between 20 and 60 C and preferably between 20 and 40 C, then stirring is continued for several hours and a delipidated filter cake and a lipid-rich filtrate are separated

  polar and apolar by any suitable method.

  b) Concentration: The filtrate obtained in step (a) is concentrated under vacuum, for example in a still type device, to obtain a homogeneous orange-brown oil, then this oil is dried and filtered to obtain the total lipid fraction which is in the form of a perfectly clear and stable liquid, the

4 2792328

  composition of neutral lipids and polar lipids is

  perfectly constant and reproducible.

  b ') recovery: the defatted cereal cake obtained in step (a) is recovered by any suitable means. c) Extraction of the polar lipids: The total lipid fraction obtained in step (b) is treated with an organic solvent so as to separate the polar lipids which are insoluble and precipitate from the non-polar fraction which is dissolved in the organic solvent, then the polar lipid precipitate is recovered by any means of

suitable solid liquid separation.

  The process can also include after step

  (c) a step (d) of extraction of the neutral lipids.

  The origin of the cereal flour or of the product resulting from the transformation of cereals, such as gluten, used in step (a) is chosen from wheat, gluten from

  wheat, rice, millet, oats, barley, sorghum, etc.

  Among these cereals, wheat is particularly preferred, the total lipid content of which is greater than 5%. Preferably, the cereal flour or the product resulting from the transformation of cereals used in step (a) comes from wheat and consists mainly of protein.

wheat reserve (gluten).

  The polar solvent of step (a) is for example methanol, ethanol, etc., or a mixture of

  these. Of these, absolute ethanol is preferred.

  A suitable method for separating, in step (a), the defatted filter cake and a filtrate rich in polar and non-polar lipids is for example a

  filtration, centrifugation or spinning.

  It should be noted that the alcohol extraction carried out in step (a) makes it possible to dissolve the triglycerides, the phospholipids, the glycolipids, the

ceramides and glycosylceramides.

  The evaporation of the solvent or of the polar solvent mixture, such as ethanol, from step (b) is advantageously carried out by means of a type reactor.

2792328

  still equipped with a double wall in which circulates a thermal oil whose temperature is adjusted according to the needs of the process and the vacuum level of the installation. It is thus possible to recover from the bottom of the reactor the total lipid fraction which is in the form of a perfectly homogeneous liquid residue.

  containing approximately 3% of ceramides and glycosylceramides.

  The extraction of the polar lipids of step (c) is carried out using an organic solvent chosen from

  acetone, ether, benzene, or a mixture of these

  this. Among these, acetone is more particularly preferred. In order to obtain a polar lipid concentrate with constant and reproducible characteristics, the treatment in step (c) consists in carrying out from 1 to 5 and preferably 3 successive extractions with an organic solvent in an organic solvent ratio relative to the total lipid fraction between 1 and 10 v / v and preferably between 1 and 8 v / v, and under the following preferred temperature and stirring conditions: a temperature below 20 C and preferably below 15 C, and very particularly preferred is a temperature between 5 and 10 C; - A stirring mode suitable for a job of dispersing a liquid in another liquid during the first extraction, and a shear work of. the lipid paste during the following operations if more than one extraction is carried out, the stirring mode however having to avoid the dissolution of oxygen from the air in the mixture; - a duration of agitation between 15 and 45

  minutes and preferably of the order of 20 to 30 minutes.

  - the organic solvent used must have a

maximum water content of 0.3%.

  The polar lipid precipitate obtained in step (c) is recovered by any suitable liquid solid separation means, such as for example front vacuum filtration or centrifugal spinning on a 5-10 p filter cloth between 1500 and 2500 rpm . We particularly prefer

6 2792328

  the latter technique because it improves the solvent dryness of the recovered cake and is therefore more suitable for

industrial implementation.

  Advantageously, the paste rich in polar lipids recovered at the end of step (c) is dried under vacuum at a temperature of the order of 35 C or freeze-dried at freezing temperatures of the order of -45 C, sublimation of the order of -30 C, and desorption of the order

of 40 C, or even atomized.

  Example 2: Preparation of an oily material

according to the invention.

  The oily material according to the invention is prepared by dispersing LIPOWHEAT in i'ARLAMOL HD

  marketed by the company ICI (INCI name: Isohexadecane).

  The LIPOWHEAT (2%) is added cold to i'ARLAMOL HD, then mixed with moderate stirring, of the order of 300 rpm, at a temperature of approximately 45 to 50 C for 10 to

15 minutes.

Claims (6)

  1) Oily matter comprising parrafinic hydrocarbons, such as isohexadecane and a compound rich in lipids of vegetable origin. 2) Oily material according to claim 1, characterized in that the compound rich in lipids of vegetable origin comprises more than 50% and advantageously more than 80% by weight of lipids.   3) Oily matter according to one of   claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the compound   rich in lipids of plant origin comprises of the order of   50 to 65% of glycolipids including glycosylceramides.   4) Oily material according to any one of   claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the compound   rich in lipids of vegetable origin comprises from 5 to 12% and preferably from 8 to 10% of ceramides including glycosylceramides. ) Oily material according to any one of   claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the compound   rich in lipids of vegetable origin comprises of the order of to 40% and preferably of the order of 30 to 35% of phospholipids. 6) Oily material according to any one of   claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the compound   rich in lipids of plant origin comprises less than 1% and   advantageously no neutral lipid.   7) Oily material according to any one of   Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises   from 1 to 10% and advantageously from 2 to 5% of at least one   compound rich in lipids of plant origin. 8 2792328   8) Composition comprising an oily phase characterized in that said oily phase consists e / or comprises the oily material according to any one of claims 1 to 7.   9) Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it comprises one or more agents cosmetologically, dermatologically or pharmaceutically   active in one or more acceptable vehicles.   ) Cosmetic composition according to one of   claims 8 or 9, characterized in that it is   present in the form of foaming products, emulsions,   or make-up or make-up removing products.