FR2774286A1

FR2774286A1 - Cosmetic composition with hydrated lipid lamellar structure into which both hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents can be stably incorporated

Info

Publication number: FR2774286A1
Application number: FR9801306A
Authority: FR
Inventors: Michele Collin; Virginie Fera
Original assignee: Parfums Givenchy SA
Current assignee: LVMH Fragrance Brands SA
Priority date: 1998-02-04
Filing date: 1998-02-04
Publication date: 1999-08-06
Anticipated expiration: 2018-02-04
Also published as: FR2774286B1

Abstract

A combination of a fatty alcohol and an amphiphilic lipid in a mixture of water and a water-miscible organic solvent provides a hydrated lipid lamellar structure into which both an aqueous solution of a hydrophilic substance and a lipophilic substance can be stably incorporated. Cosmetic composition in the form of a lipid phase comprising one or more hydrophilic and/or lipophilic cosmetic active agents has a hydrated lipid lamellar structure and contains 1 - 10 wt.% of at least one 14 - 22C fatty alcohol (I), 0.5 - 10 wt.% of an amphiphilic lipid (II), 0.5 - 10 wt.% of a water-miscible organic solvent capable of dissolving lipids, and 1 - 12 wt.% water, the (I):(II) weight ratio being 1 - 5:1. An Independent claim is also included for a process for preparing the composition by dissolving (II) in a mixture of water and the organic solvent, optionally adding hydrophilic active agents, and incorporating the solution into a mixture of the other ingredients.

Description

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique sous forme d'une phase grasse comportant un ou plusieurs agents cosmétiquement actifs hydrophiles et/ou lipophiles, ainsi qu'un procédé pour la préparation de celle-ci. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a fatty phase comprising one or more hydrophilic and / or lipophilic cosmetically active agents, and a process for the preparation thereof.

On sait qu'en matière de produits cosmétiques, il est difficile de concilier d'une part les caractéristiques souhaitées d'une phase grasse, notamment en ce qui concerne le confort de l'application, avec la possibilité d'incorporer un agent cosmétique actif hydrophile. It is known that, with regard to cosmetic products, it is difficult to reconcile on the one hand the desired characteristics of a fatty phase, in particular as regards the comfort of the application, with the possibility of incorporating an active cosmetic agent. hydrophilic.

Le but de la présente invention est donc de fournir une composition cosmétique qui présente les avantages précités, à savoir qui soit capable de contenir une solution de substance active hydrophile toute en conservant ses caractéristiques cosmétiques de phase grasse, en particulier l'onctuosité au toucher et le confort d'application. The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a cosmetic composition which has the abovementioned advantages, namely which is capable of containing a solution of hydrophilic active substance while retaining its cosmetic characteristics of the fatty phase, in particular the creaminess to the touch and the comfort of application.

Or, les présents inventeurs ont mis en évidence le fait que, et ceci de manière surprenante, l'association d'un alcool gras avec un lipide amphiphile dans des proportions pondérales particulières, en présence d'eau et d'alcool, permettait d'obtenir, en combinaison avec d'autres ingrédients usuels, une structure lamellaire lipidique hydratée pouvant incorporer de manière stable une solution aqueuse d'une substance hydrophile aussi bien qu'une substance lipophile. However, the present inventors have demonstrated that, surprisingly, the combination of a fatty alcohol with an amphiphilic lipid in particular weight proportions, in the presence of water and alcohol, made it possible to in combination with other conventional ingredients, obtain a hydrated lipid lamellar structure which can stably incorporate an aqueous solution of a hydrophilic substance as well as a lipophilic substance.

Ainsi, l'objet de la présente invention, visant à atteindre le but précité, consiste en une composition sous forme d'une phase grasse comportant un ou plusieurs agents cosmétiquement actifs hydrophiles et/ou lipophiles, qui est caractérisée en ce qu'elle présente un structure lamellaire lipidique hydratée, en ce qu'elle contient de 1 à 10% en poids d'au moins un alcool gras comprenant de 14 à 22 atomes de carbone, de 0,5 à 10% en poids d'un lipide amphiphile, le rapport pondéral entre l'alcool gras et le lipide amphiphile étant compris entre 1 et 5, et de 0,5 à 10% en poids d'un solvant organique cosmétiquement acceptable, miscible à l'eau et capable de dissoudre les lipides, et en ce que sa teneur en eau est comprise entre 1 et 12% en poids. Thus, the object of the present invention, aimed at achieving the aforementioned goal, consists of a composition in the form of a fatty phase comprising one or more hydrophilic and / or lipophilic cosmetically active agents, which is characterized in that it has a hydrated lipidic lamellar structure, in that it contains from 1 to 10% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, from 0.5 to 10% by weight of an amphiphilic lipid, the weight ratio between the fatty alcohol and the amphiphilic lipid being between 1 and 5, and from 0.5 to 10% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, miscible with water and capable of dissolving lipids, and in that its water content is between 1 and 12% by weight.

Un second objet de cette invention consiste en un procédé pour la préparation de la composition cosmétique telle que définie ci-dessus, qui est caractérisé en ce que l'on réalise une solution du lipide amphiphile dans un mélange comprenant l'eau et un solvant organique cosmétiquement acceptable du type précité, que l'on introduit ensuite, le cas échéant, les agents actifs hydrophiles, et que l'on incorpore ensuite ladite solution au mélange des autres constituants de la composition, de manière à obtenir ladite structure lamellaire lipidique hydratée. A second subject of this invention consists of a process for the preparation of the cosmetic composition as defined above, which is characterized in that a solution of the amphiphilic lipid is produced in a mixture comprising water and an organic solvent cosmetically acceptable of the aforementioned type, which is then introduced, if necessary, the hydrophilic active agents, and that is then incorporated said solution to the mixture of the other constituents of the composition, so as to obtain said hydrated lipid lamellar structure.

Selon un mode particulier des réalisation du procédé, la solution précitée du lipide amphiphile comprend : de 35 à 55% en poids du lipide amphiphile, 30 à 55% en poids du solvant organique, et 5 à 20% en poids d'eau. According to a particular embodiment of the process, the abovementioned solution of the amphiphilic lipid comprises: from 35 to 55% by weight of the amphiphilic lipid, 30 to 55% by weight of the organic solvent, and 5 to 20% by weight of water.

Avantageusement, la proportion pondérale lipide-solvant-eau de ladite solution est 50:40:10, le solvant étant de préférence l'éthanol. Advantageously, the weight proportion lipid-solvent-water of said solution is 50:40:10, the solvent being preferably ethanol.

La figure 1 est une représentation photographique, réalisée au microscope électronique à balayage, d'un exemple d'une composition selon l'invention. FIG. 1 is a photographic representation, made under a scanning electron microscope, of an example of a composition according to the invention.

Dans la composition cosmétique selon l'invention, l'alcool gras en C14 à C22 peut être choisi parmi les alcools myristique, cétylique, stéarylique, béhénylique, etc, ainsi que leurs mélanges, en particulier un mélange d'alcool cétylique et d'alcool stéarylique, notamment celui désigné sous le nom d'alcool cétéarylique ou cétostéarylique. In the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the C 14 to C 22 fatty alcohol may be chosen from myristic, cetyl, stearyl and behenyl alcohols, and the like, and mixtures thereof, in particular a mixture of cetyl alcohol and alcohol. stearyl, especially that referred to as cetearyl alcohol or cetostearyl alcohol.

Le lipide amphiphile est de préférence un phospholipide, tel qu'une lécithine, hydrogénée ou non, en particulier une lécithine de soja ou d'oeuf, une phosphatidylcholine, hydrogénée ou non, éventuellement associée à d'autres phospholipides, en particulier la phosphatidyléthanolamine et le phosphatidylinositol. The amphiphilic lipid is preferably a phospholipid, such as a lecithin, hydrogenated or not, in particular a lecithin of soy or egg, a phosphatidylcholine, hydrogenated or not, optionally combined with other phospholipids, in particular phosphatidylethanolamine and phosphatidylinositol.

Enfin, ledit solvant organique cosmétiquement acceptable peut être par exemple un alcool aliphatique en C2 ou C3, en particulier l'éthanol. Finally, said cosmetically acceptable organic solvent may be, for example, a C2 or C3 aliphatic alcohol, in particular ethanol.

La composition cosmétique selon l'invention peut avantageusement comporter encore les substances suivantes
A. de 5 à 50% en poids, et de préférence de 30 à 50% en poids, d'émollients liquides < à température ordinaire), qui permettent de conférer à la composition son toucher, ses propriétés d'étalement et de pénétration, ainsi que sa douceur.The cosmetic composition according to the invention may advantageously also comprise the following substances
A. from 5 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, of liquid emollients (at ordinary temperature), which make it possible to impart to the composition its feel, its spreading and penetration properties, as well as its sweetness.

Ces émollients liquides peuvent être choisis parmi les esters d'acides gras en C8 à C22 avec un alcool gras en C8
C22, tels que l'isononanoate d'octyle (DERMOL 89), le stéarate d'isocétyle (EUTANOL G16S) ou les esters caprylique et caprique de coco (CETIOL LC), les esters d'acide aromatique avec un alcool gras en C8C22 tels qu'un benzoate d'alkyle en C12-C15 (FINSOLV TN) et les esters d'acide gras en C8 à C22 avec un dialcool en C1-C10, tels que le dicaprate de néopentyl-glycol (ESTEMOL N-01).These liquid emollients can be chosen from C8 to C22 fatty acid esters with a C8 fatty alcohol.
C22, such as octyl isononanoate (DERMOL 89), isocetyl stearate (EUTANOL G16S) or caprylic and capric coconut esters (CETIOL LC), aromatic acid esters with a C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol such as a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (FINSOLV TN) and C8-C22 fatty acid esters with a C1-C10 dialcohol, such as neopentyl glycol dicaprate (ESTEMOL N-01).

B. De 5 à 20% poids d'émollients pâteux (à température ordinaire) , qui confèrent à la composition son onctuosité et ses propriétés lors de la prise au doigt. B. From 5 to 20% by weight of pasty emollients (at ordinary temperature), which give the composition its creaminess and properties when taken on the finger.

Ces émollients pâteux peuvent être choisis parmi les esters aliphatiques en C2 à Cg avec un alcool gras en C8-C22, tels que le lactate de myristyle (CRODAMOL ML) et les triglycérides en C8 à C20, tels que les triglycérides de palmiste en C12-C18 (CREMAO CS 33).These pasty emollients may be chosen from C 2 to C 6 aliphatic esters with a C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol, such as myristyl lactate (CRODAMOL ML) and C 8 to C 20 triglycerides, such as C12 palm kernel triglycerides. C18 (CREMAO CS 33).

C. De 1 à 30% poids de composés lipophiles solides < à température ordinaire), autres que les composés précités, comprenant les alcools gras précités. C. from 1 to 30% by weight of solid lipophilic compounds (at ordinary temperature), other than the abovementioned compounds, comprising the abovementioned fatty alcohols.

Ces composés lipophiles peuvent être des triglycérides en
C16 à C24, en particulier sous forme d'huile végétale hydrogénée (CREMEOL HF62), des cires, telles que des cires de paraffine (CIRE CERAFINE 52-54) ou de silicone (DC 580
WAX) , ainsi que des argiles organophiles, telles qu'une hectorite quaternisée traitée par de la cyclométhicone (BENTONE GEL VS 5).These lipophilic compounds may be triglycerides in
C16 to C24, in particular in the form of a hydrogenated vegetable oil (CREMEOL HF62), waxes such as paraffin waxes (Cire Cerafine 52-54) or silicone waxes (DC 580
WAX), as well as organophilic clays, such as a quaternized hectorite treated with cyclomethicone (BENTONE GEL VS 5).

D. DE 1 à 10% de polymères sous forme de poudre, par exemple de l'amidon modifié, en particulier de l'amidon de mais modifié (NATRASORB HFB, DRY FLO ELITE LL). D. 1 to 10% of polymers in powder form, for example modified starch, in particular modified corn starch (NATRASORB HFB, DRY FLO ELITE LL).

Bien entendu, la composition cosmétique selon l'invention comporte un ou plusieurs agents cosmétiques actifs hydrophiles et/ou lipophiles. Ces agents peuvent être présents sous forme d'associations de plusieurs agents lipophiles ou hydrophiles, désignés souvent sous le nom de complexes actifs lipophiles ou hydrophiles. Of course, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydrophilic and / or lipophilic active cosmetic agents. These agents may be present in the form of combinations of several lipophilic or hydrophilic agents, often referred to as lipophilic or hydrophilic active complexes.

En particulier, il s'agit d'agents hydratants, nutritifs, rééquilibrants, tenseurs, raffermissants, antirides, apaisants, anti-rougeurs et stimulants. In particular, it involves moisturizing agents, nutritive, rebalancing, tensor, firming, anti-wrinkle, soothing, anti-redness and stimulants.

A titre d'exemple, on citera comme complexes actifs lipophiles
- un complexe rééquilibrant apaisant, comprenant du
glycyrrhétinate de stéaryle et de l'huile de maïs,
- un complexe raffermissant anti-rides, comprenant un
extrait de Centella asiatica, du palmitate de
vi tami ne A, un extrait huileux de ginseng et de
l'huile de sésame.By way of example, mention may be made of lipophilic active complexes
a soothing rebalancing complex comprising
stearyl glycyrrhetinate and corn oil,
an anti-wrinkle firming complex, comprising a
extract of Centella asiatica, palmitate
vi A, an oily extract of ginseng and
sesame oil.

A titre d'exemple également, on citera comme complexes actifs hydrophiles
- un biophytocomplexe, comprenant de l'ADN végétal
extrait de blé, des glycoprotéines de levure
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, un extrait de tusilage et
un extrait d'aubépine,
- un complexe à effet tenseur retard, comprenant du
polyglycéryl-6-dioleate et des hydrolysats de
protéines de blé de différents poids moléculaires
compris entre 10.000 et 250.000 Daltons,
- un complexe à effet stimulant douceur comprenant du
glycyrrhétinate de stéaryle, un extrait de grains
de maïs, un extrait de levure et un extrait de
hêtre.By way of example also, mention may be made of hydrophilic active complexes
a biophytocomplex, comprising plant DNA
wheat extract, yeast glycoproteins
Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of tusilage and
an extract of hawthorn,
a complex with a delayed tensor effect, comprising
polyglyceryl-6-dioleate and hydrolysates of
wheat proteins of different molecular weights
between 10,000 and 250,000 Daltons,
a complex with a gentle stimulating effect comprising
stearyl glycyrrhetinate, a grain extract
of corn, a yeast extract and an extract of
beech.

- un complexe à effet raffermissant anti-rides retard,
comprenant un extrait de Centella asiatica, du
palmitate de vitamine A, du phosphate de vitamine
C, un extrait de réglisse, un extrait huileux de
ginseng et des glycocéramides de blé.a firming anti-wrinkle firming effect,
comprising an extract of Centella asiatica,
vitamin A palmitate, vitamin phosphate
C, a licorice extract, an oily extract of
ginseng and wheat glycoceramides.

Parmi les autres agents cosmétiques actifs lipophiles on peut encore citer des agents hydratants et nutritifs, tels que le beurre de karité, l'huile de jojoba, des céramides, ou encore un mélange constitué d'huile de bourrache, d'huile de soja, de lécithine et de tocophérol, ainsi que des agents lissants, tels que le polyglyceryl-6dioléate. Other lipophilic active cosmetic agents that may be mentioned include moisturizing and nutritive agents, such as shea butter, jojoba oil, ceramides, or a mixture consisting of borage oil, soybean oil, lecithin and tocopherol, as well as smoothing agents, such as polyglyceryl-6dioleate.

Suivant un mode préféré de réalisation de l'invention, la proportion pondérale des agents actifs hydrophiles dans la composition, est comprise entre 1 et 15%. Celle des agents actifs lipophiles peut varier dans d'assez larges proportions, mais de préférence elle est comprise entre 0 et 15%. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the proportion by weight of the hydrophilic active agents in the composition is between 1 and 15%. That of lipophilic active agents can vary in fairly large proportions, but preferably it is between 0 and 15%.

Enfin, le reste de la composition est constituée avantageusement par des agents conservateurs, des antioxydants, des parfums, des colorants et de l'eau. Finally, the rest of the composition is advantageously constituted by preserving agents, antioxidants, perfumes, dyes and water.

En ce qui concerne la préparation de la composition cosmétique selon l'invention, on peut procéder de la manière exposée ci-après. With regard to the preparation of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, it is possible to proceed in the manner described hereinafter.

On introduit dans un récipient approprié, muni d'un système d'agitation à hélice et d'un système de chauffage, les émollients liquides et pâteux, ainsi que les composés lipophiles solides. On chauffe sous agitation jusqu'à fusion complète des différents constituants, et on laisse refroidir, tout en maintenant l'agitation. In a suitable container, provided with a propeller stirring system and a heating system, the liquid and pasty emollients, as well as the solid lipophilic compounds, are introduced. Stirring is heated until complete melting of the various constituents, and allowed to cool, while maintaining stirring.

On ajoute ensuite les polymères, les agents cosmétiques actifs lipophiles, des conservateurs, des parfums, ainsi que les colorants sensibles à la chaleur lorsqu'une température compatible avec leur stabilité chimique est atteinte. Polymers, lipophilic active cosmetics, preservatives, fragrances, as well as heat sensitive dyes are then added when a temperature compatible with their chemical stability is reached.

Séparément, on prépare une solution ou dispersion du lipide amphiphile, tel que de la lécithine hydrogénée ou non, dans un mélange eau-solvant organique cosmétiquement acceptable précité, ce dernier pouvant être un alcool aliphatique en C2 ou C3, tel que l'éthanol. De préférence, la proportion pondérale lipide-alcool-eau est de 50:40:10. Separately, a solution or dispersion of the amphiphilic lipid, such as hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lecithin, is prepared in a cosmetically acceptable water-organic solvent mixture mentioned above, the latter possibly being a C 2 or C 3 aliphatic alcohol, such as ethanol. Preferably, the lipid-alcohol-water weight ratio is 50:40:10.

On introduit ensuite dans cette solution les substances hydrophiles, en particulier les agents cosmétiques actifs hydrophiles, qui se présentent le cas échéant sous forme de solution aqueuse. Cette introduction est effectuée lentement, sous agitation, en veillant à l'homogénéité du mélange avant toute nouvelle addition.Hydrophilic substances, in particular hydrophilic active cosmetic agents, which are optionally in the form of an aqueous solution, are then introduced into this solution. This introduction is carried out slowly, with stirring, ensuring the homogeneity of the mixture before any new addition.

Le mélange ainsi préparé est alors introduit progressivement sous agitation dans la phase grasse précédemment élaborée. The mixture thus prepared is then introduced gradually with stirring into the previously developed fatty phase.

On obtient ainsi une composition présentant une structure lamellaires, telle que montrée sur la photographie de la figure 1, obtenue par microscopie électronique à balayage à partir de la composition B décrite ci-dessous, après traitement par la technique dite de cryofracture. A composition having a lamellar structure, as shown in the photograph of FIG. 1, obtained by scanning electron microscopy from composition B described below, after treatment with the so-called cryofracture technique, is thus obtained.

Cette structure apparaît clairement sur cette représentation de la figure 1 sous forme de plaques superposées.This structure appears clearly in this representation of FIG. 1 in the form of superposed plates.

Enfin, et à titre d'exemple, on a réalisé les deux compositions cosmétiques A et B ayant comme teneur en eau finale respectivement 1,7 % en poids et 9,28 en poids. Finally, and by way of example, the two cosmetic compositions A and B were produced having a final water content of 1.7% by weight and 9.28 by weight, respectively.

Ces compositions A et B sont en pratique associées pour le soin cosmétique du contour des yeux. These compositions A and B are in practice associated for the cosmetic care of the eye contour.

Exemple de compositions selon l'invention
COMPOSITION
A B
Alcool gras 5,2 3
alcool stéarylique 0 3
alcool cétylique 5,2 0
Lipide amphiphile 2 6
sous forme de solution hydro
alcoolique de lécithine
(lécithine-éthanol-eau : 50-40-10) 2 6
Emollients liquides 43,75 40,7
coco-caprylate/caprate 13 15
benzoate d'alkyle C12-C15 10,3 10,6
isononanoate d'octyle 12 6,5
dicaprate de néopentylglycol 6,45 4,6
stéarate d'iso-cétyle 2 4
Emollients pâteux 6,5 6
lactate de myristyle 4 4
glycéride de palmiste 2,5 2
Composés lipophiles solides (autres
qu'alcools gras) 22,5 16,65
triglycérides C16-C24 14 10,65
cire de paraffine 4,5 3
hectorite stéaralkonium 4 3
Poudre polymérique 7 7
amidon modifié 7 7
Complexes actifs lipophiles 3,7 0
complexe rééquilibrant apaisant 2,1 0
complexe raffermissant anti-rides 1,6 0
Actifs lipophiles (autres) 6,25 5,25
agents hydratants et nutritifs
(beurre de karité, huile de jojoba,
mélange : lécithine + huile de
bourrache + huile de soja + tocophérol, ) 5,25 5,25
agent lissant (polyglycéryl-6
dioléate) 1 0
Complexes actifs hydrophiles 2 14,2
biophytocomplexe 2 2,5
complexe tenseur effet retard 0 6,6
complexe stimulant douceur retard 0 2,6
complexe raffermissant spécifique
retard 0 2,5 eau+conservateurs, anti-oxydants, parfum, colorants, qsp : 100 qsp :100
Compte tenu de ce qui précède, on constate que la composition cosmétique selon l'invention est bien capable de contenir une substance active hydrophile, tout en conservant ses caractéristiques cosmétiques de phase grasse, en particulier l'onctuosité et le confort d'application.Example of compositions according to the invention
COMPOSITION
AB
Fatty alcohol 5.2 3
stearyl alcohol 0 3
cetyl alcohol 5.2 0
Amphiphilic lipid 2 6
as a hydro solution
alcoholic lecithin
(lecithin-ethanol-water: 50-40-10) 2 6
Liquid emollients 43.75 40.7
coco-caprylate / caprate 13 15
C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 10.3 10.6
octyl isononanoate 12 6.5
neopentylglycol dicaprate 6.45 4.6
iso-cetyl stearate 2 4
Paste emollients 6.5 6
myristyl lactate 4 4
glyceride of palm kernel 2,5 2
Solid lipophilic compounds (other
as fatty alcohols) 22.5 16.65
triglycerides C16-C24 14 10.65
paraffin wax 4.5 3
hectorite stearalkonium 4 3
Polymeric powder 7 7
modified starch 7 7
Lipophilic Active Complexes 3.7 0
soothing rebalancing complex 2.1 0
firming anti-wrinkle complex 1.6 0
Lipophilic active substances, other 6.25 5.25
moisturizing and nutritious agents
(shea butter, jojoba oil,
mixture: lecithin + oil
borage + soybean oil + tocopherol,) 5.25 5.25
smoothing agent (polyglyceryl-6
dioleate) 1 0
Hydrophilic active complexes 2 14.2
biophytocomplex 2 2,5
complex tensor effect delay 0 6,6
Complex stimulant sweetness delay 0 2,6
specific firming complex
retardation 0 2,5 water + preservatives, anti-oxidants, perfume, dyes, qs: 100 qsp: 100
In view of the foregoing, it can be seen that the cosmetic composition according to the invention is indeed capable of containing a hydrophilic active substance while retaining its cosmetic characteristics of the fatty phase, in particular the creaminess and the comfort of application.

En outre, les structures lamellaires lipidiques hydratées, également dénommées "phase lamellaires lipidiques hydratées", qui sont constituées d'une alternance de couches lipidiques, organisées en bicouches de molécules lipidiques amphiphiles, et de couches aqueuses, améliorent encore davantage les qualités cosmétiques de la composition, en ce qu'elles apportent notamment une plus grande douceur à l'application et qu'elles diminuent l'effet "collant" de certaines matières grasses. Une telles structure lamellaire est donc capable de contenir des agents actifs lipophiles et hydrophiles, respectivement dans ses couches lipidiques et ses couches aqueuses. Ainsi, elle joue un rôle de vecteur de ces agents actifs après application sur la peau. In addition, the hydrated lipidic lamellar structures, also called "hydrated lipidic lamellar phase", which consist of an alternation of lipid layers, organized in bilayers of amphiphilic lipid molecules, and aqueous layers, further improve the cosmetic qualities of the lipid layer. composition, in that they provide a greater softness to the application and they reduce the "sticky" effect of certain fats. Such a lamellar structure is therefore capable of containing lipophilic and hydrophilic active agents, respectively in its lipid layers and in its aqueous layers. Thus, it plays a role of vector of these active agents after application to the skin.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a fatty phase comprising one or more cosmetically active hydrophiphiles and / or lipophilic agents, characterized in that it has a hydrated lipidic lamellar structure, in that it contains from 1 to 10% by weight at least one fatty alcohol comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, from 0.5 to 10% by weight of an amphiphilic lipid, the weight ratio between the fatty alcohol and the amphiphilic lipid being between 1 and 5, and from 0.5 to 10% by weight of a cosmetically acceptable organic solvent miscible with water and capable of dissolving lipids, and in that its water content is between 1 and 12% by weight.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, in particular a mixture cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, especially that referred to as cetearyl alcohol or cetostearyl alcohol.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, characterized in that the amphiphilic lipid is a phospholipid, such as a lecithin, hydrogenated or not, in particular a lecithin of soy or egg, a phosphatidylocholine, hydrogenated or not , associated or not with other phospholipids, in particular phosphatidylethanolamine and phosphatidylidositol.

4. Composition according to claim 1 to 3, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable organic solvent is a C2 or C3 aliphatic alcohol, in particular ethanol.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it further contains from 5 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, of liquid emollients at ordinary temperature, and or 5 to 20% by weight of pasty emollients at ordinary temperature.

6. Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the liquid emollients at ordinary temperature are chosen from C 8 -C 22 fatty acid esters with a C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol, such as octyl isononanoate, isocetyl stearate or caprylic and capric coconut esters, esters of aromatic acid with a fatty alcohol in

C8-C22r such as a C12-CX5 alkyl benzoate, and C8-C22 fatty acid esters with a C1-C10 dialcohol, such as neopentyl glycol dicaprate.

7. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the pasty emollients at ordinary temperature are chosen from C 2 -C 6 aliphatic acid esters with a C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol, such as myristyl lactate, and triglycerides. in CS-C2O, such as C12-Cl8 palm kernel triglycerides.

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it further contains from 1 to 30% by weight of solid lipophilic compounds at ordinary temperature, other than the abovementioned compounds comprising the aforementioned fatty alcohols, and or from 1 to 10% of polymers in powder form.

9. Composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that the above-mentioned ordinary solid-phase lipophilic compounds are chosen from triglycerides in

C16-C24, especially in the form of hydrogenated vegetable oil, waxes, such as paraffin waxes or silicone waxes, and organophilic clays, such as a hydrogenated hectorite treated with cyclomethicone.

10. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that said polymer in powder form is modified starch powder.

11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the weight proportion of the cosmetically active agents hydrophilic is between 1 and 15% relative to the total of the composition.

12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the weight proportion of lipophilic cosmetically active agents is between 0 and 15% relative to the total of the composition.

13. Composition according to one of claims 11 or 12, characterized in that the cosmetically active agents are selected from hydrating agents, nutritive, rebalancing, tensor, firming, anti-wrinkle, soothing, anti-redness and stimulants.

14. Process for the preparation of the cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that a solution of the amphiphilic lipid is produced in a mixture comprising water and a cosmetically acceptable organic solvent, miscible with water and capable of dissolving the lipids, which is then introduced, where appropriate, the hydrophilic active agents, and then incorporating said solution to the mixture of the other constituents of the composition, so as to obtain said hydrated lipid lamellar structure.

15. Method according to claim 14, characterized in that said solution of the amphiphilic lipid comprises, by weight, from 35 to 55% of the amphiphilic lipid, from 30 to 55% of the organic solvent, and from 5 to 20% of water.

16. The method of claim 15, characterized in that the weight proportion lipid-solvent-water of said solution is 50:40:10.

17. Method according to one of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that said organic solvent is a C 2 or C 3 aliphatic alcohol, in particular ethanol.