FR2754433A1 - Shoe with inner sole having supple front part - Google Patents

Abstract

The shoe has a lined upper (1,2) that is fixed to an inner sole (3) to which a sole (4) with a heel (5) is fixed. The inner sole has a supple part (8), which is at the front of the shoe, and a rigid part (9) which extends this backwards to the heel. The supple part has a layer of foam material (16) between two pieces of supple material (17,18), such as leather or fabric. The rigid part is covered with a layer of foam material (14). The sole, made of rigid material, has a supple zone at the front.

Description

FOOTWEAR AND ASSEMBLY METHOD
The present invention relates to a shoe, in particular of the trotter type, consisting of a lined upper which is assembled with a first fitting on which is fixed a sole with a heel. It also relates to the original assembly process for this shoe.

 The purpose of the present invention is to provide a shoe whose structure reconciles resistance and flexibility, to ensure good support of the foot, in particular during the impact of the heel on the ground, while having optimal walking comfort.

 This shoe has the distinction of having a first mounting in two parts: - a flexible part which extends substantially over the entire area of the forefoot and - a rigid part which extends the flexible part backwards, up to 'at the heel.

 According to another characteristic, the flexible part of the first mounting consists of a thickness of foam, such as latex, which is sandwiched between two pieces of flexible material such as leather or canvas for example.

 Still according to the invention, the sole of this shoe is made of rigid material and it is provided with a flexible zone over its entire width, at the level of the forefoot.

 According to another characteristic, the rigid part of the first mounting is covered with a thickness of foam, such as latex, intended to absorb shocks and to increase the comfort characteristics.

 According to another arrangement of the invention, the flexible part and the rigid part which constitute the first assembly are joined end to end by a seam.

 According to another arrangement, a first cleanliness covers the rigid part of the first assembly. This first cleanliness extends towards the front of the shoe, slightly beyond the seam which connects the rigid and flexible parts of said first fitting.

 Still according to the invention, the piece of material which forms the upper layer of the flexible part of the first mounting, the lining of the rod and the first of cleanliness, which together form the internal face of contact with the foot, are made in the same material, like full grain leather.

 The invention also relates to the particular method of mounting this shoe. This process consists of: - securing the top of the shoe with its lining, at their upper edge, - sewing the lateral edges of the flexible part of the first assembly with the lining, in the front part of the latter, - to secure the periphery of the top, as well as the front and rear parts of the lining with the first assembly, after being put in place on a form, then - to fix the sole and the heel on said first assembly.

 According to a particularly advantageous characteristic, the flexible and rigid parts which constitute the first assembly are assembled before the installation on the assembly form, and preferably before the joining by sewing of the flexible part on the rod lining.

 However, the invention will be further illustrated, without being in any way limited, by the following description of a particular embodiment, given solely by way of example and shown in the accompanying drawings in which: - Figure 1 is a sectional view longitudinal of a possible embodiment of a shoe according to the present invention; - Figure 2 is a detailed view, enlarged, which shows the connection area between the flexible and rigid parts of the first assembly; - Figure 3 is a detail view, enlarged, which shows the shoe skid area; - Figure 4 is a flat view of the piece of material, which is intended to form the upper of the shoe; - Figure 5 shows the reinforcement piece (gutta), which is intended to be secured to the upper of the shoe; - Figure 6 is a flat view of the piece of material, intended to form the lining of the rod, with its anti-slide extension - Figure 7 shows, flat, the three complementary parts intended to form the flexible front part of the first assembly; - Figure 8 shows the three complementary parts intended to form the rigid rear part of the first assembly; - Figure 9 is a perspective view from below, which shows the assembly of the different parts of the shoe, before installation on a mounting form; - Figure 10 is a view of the assembly shown in Figure 9, arranged on the mounting form.

The trotter-type shoe which is shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 consists of a leather upper 1 with an internal lining 2,
The assembly forming the rod.

 The top 1 and the lining 2 are assembled with a first mounting 3, itself secured with a sole 4 provided with a heel 5.

 The first mounting 3 consists of two separate parts arranged end to end: - a front part 8 which is flexible and which extends substantially over the entire area of the forefoot and - a rear part 9 which is rigid and which extends the flexible part 8 to the heel.

 The front part 8 and the rear part 9 of the first assembly are prepared beforehand independently of one another; they are assembled by a seam 10 visible in FIG. 2.

 The rigid part 9 consists of a superposition of three layers of material bonded together.

The lower layer 12 is a piece of cardboard; the intermediate layer 13 is made of a rigid texon-like material and the upper layer 14 consists of a thickness of foam of the natural latex type.

 The flexible part 8 of the first mounting 3 extends over the entire area of the forefoot of the shoe; it consists of a thickness of latex foam 16, covered on each of its faces by a piece of flexible material 17 and 18, such as leather or canvas. The thickness of the foam layer 16 can be of the order of 3 to 10 mm for example.

 The structure of the front part 8 of the first assembly is very flexible. This flexibility provides comfort for the consumer and it also makes it easier to fold the shoe at the forefoot when walking.

 This feature is optimized by the fact that the sole 4 has a flexible zone 19 over its entire width at the level of the forefoot. This sole 4 is advantageously bicomposite. It consists of a base of rigid material such as leather, which is provided with a reservation 20 over the entire width of the forefoot area, which reservation is filled with a flexible material of elastomer type 21 ( rubber for example). The reservation 20 of the sole made of rigid material is made on the external face of the sole, on the step side; its depth is of the order of half the thickness of the sole. The elastomeric material 21 is injection molded in this reservation; it preferably comprises transverse ridges which facilitate the movement of the foot when walking.

 The combination of this particular sole with the flexible part of the first assembly gives maximum walking comfort.

 A first cleanliness 22 is disposed in the bottom of the shoe, on the rigid part 9 of the first fitting 3. This first cleanliness 22 extends on the front, slightly beyond the seam 10 which connects the rigid 9 and flexible 8 parts of the first mounting 3; it covers the corresponding transition line and comes to bear on the upper layer 17 constituting the flexible part 8.

 The inner face of the shoe is formed by the lining material 2, by the first of cleanliness 22 and by the upper layer 17 of the flexible part 8. These different parts are preferably made of the same material, such as full grain leather by example, to obtain a homogeneous, comfortable and aesthetic whole.

 There is shown in Figure 4 the flat cutout which is intended to form the upper 1 of the shoe. The internal face of this cutout advantageously receives a reinforcement element of woven material called gutta, which is joined by gluing. This gutta 23 is shown in Figure 5; it has a shape substantially identical to that of the top 1 to come almost completely cover its internal face. The face of the gutta 23 which is intended to be applied to the cut-out of the top 1 is preferably self-adhesive when cold to facilitate the joining of the two parts. Its other side is iron-on for reasons which will be explained later.

 The lining element 2 which is shown in FIG. 6 is intended to be assembled by stitching with the upper assembly 1-gutta 23, at the level of the upper part of the shoe.

 In Figure 6, we note the rear end element 24 called anti-slide which consists of a part of different appearance or nature, intended to come into contact with the heel of the user. This anti-slide 24 is secured by gluing or by stitching with the ends of the lining piece 2.

On this part 2, we note the presence of a front extension 25 provided with a centering notch; we also note the presence of lateral extensions 26 which extend approximately over the entire rear half-part of the lining. The contour lines 28 which extend between the front extension 25 and the lateral extensions 26 correspond to the area of the lining disposed at the level of the forefoot of the shoe.

 FIG. 7 shows the three layers of material 16, 17 and 18 which are intended to form the flexible front part 8 of the first assembly.

The two end layers 17 and 18 have an identical shape and dimensions; they sandwich the middle layer of foam 16 whose dimensions are slightly smaller. The two end layers 17 and 18 are joined to each other over their entire periphery by bonding to form a kind of pad.

 The rigid part 9 of the first assembly is prepared independently. The three pieces of material which constitute it are shown in FIG. 8. The lower layer 12 is made up of a piece of cardboard whose thickness is of the order of 2.5 mm. This layer of cardboard is covered with a texon 13, assembled by gluing, the thickness of which is of the order of 1 mm and this texon 13 is itself covered with a layer of latex foam 14 of 2 to 3 mm. about thick.

The cardboard layer 12 has a length slightly less than the upper layers 13 and 14, so that its front end is disposed slightly recessed relative to that of said upper layers 13 and 14.

This characteristic, visible in FIG. 2, makes it possible to limit the thickness of the first mounting during the joining by stitching of the flexible front part 8 with the rigid rear part 9. This joining is achieved by placing the rear edge of the flexible part 8 consisting of two thicknesses 17 and 18, under the two upper layers 13 and 14 of the rigid part 9. The two layers of material 17 and 18 are placed in the extension of the cardboard sheet 12 and they can be secured with the two upper layers 13 and 14 by means of a seam 10 extending over the entire width of the first assembly.

 In accordance with the representation of FIG. 9, the lateral edges of the flexible part 8 of the first assembly are joined by seams 30 with the contour lines 28 of the lining 2. On the transition zones between the contour lines 28 and the lateral extensions 26, lateral end-of-stitching reinforcements 31 are provided.

 This assembly operation makes it possible to make a sleeve into which the mounting form can easily be introduced and correctly positioned. The flexible part 8 is assembled with the rigid part 9 of the first assembly can be carried out before or after the flexible part 8 is secured to the lining 2.

 In FIG. 9, we note the presence of an additional reinforcement in the form of a hard end 32 glued to the front part of the gutta 23. On the rear, a stiffening element is advantageously interposed between this gutta 23 and the lining 2.

 The installation on the mounting form 32 is illustrated in FIG. 10. The final operation consists in securing the periphery of the top 1, as well as the front extension 25 and the lateral extensions 26 of the lining 2 with the first mounting. , by collage. The sole 4 with the heel 5 is then fixed on the first assembly 3 and the insertion of a first cleanliness 22 completes the assembly.

 The shoe finally undergoes an ultimate heating operation in the oven. During this operation, the fusible face of the gutta 23 is secured to the lining part 2.

 We obtain in a rational way, a very comfortable shoe likely to be particularly suitable for female customers.

Claims (10)

- CLAIMS  1.- Shoe consisting of a lined upper (1, 2) which is assembled with a first assembly (3) on which is fixed a sole (4) with a heel (5), characterized in that it comprises a first mounting (3) in two parts: - a flexible part (8) which extends substantially over the entire area of the forefoot and, - a rigid part (9) which extends said flexible part (8) towards the back, up to the heel.  2.- Shoe according to claim 1, characterized in that the flexible part (8) of the first mounting (3) consists of a thickness of foam (16) sandwiched between two pieces of flexible material (17, 18), such as leather or canvas for example.  3.- Shoe according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises a sole (4) of rigid material provided with a flexible zone (20) over its entire width, at the front -foot.  4.- Shoe according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the rigid part (9) of the first assembly (3) is covered with a thickness of foam (14).  5.- Shoe according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the flexible part (8) and the rigid part (9) which constitute the first assembly are joined end to end by a seam (10).  6.- Shoe according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises a first cleanliness (22), leather type, which covers the rigid part (9) of the first assembly (3) and which extends slightly beyond the seam (10) which connects the rigid (9) and flexible (8) parts of said first assembly (3).  7.- Shoe according to claim 6, characterized in that the piece of material (17) which forms the upper layer of the flexible part (8) of the first assembly, the lining (2) of the top (1) and the first of cleanliness (22), which together form the internal face of contact with the foot, are made of the same material, such as full grain leather.  8.- A method of mounting a shoe according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it consists: - of securing the top (1) with the lining (2) at their upper edge, - to sew the lateral edges of the flexible part (8) of the first assembly (3) with the lining (2), in the front part thereof, - to secure the circumference of the top (1), as well as the front and rear parts of the lining (2) with the first mounting (3), after being put in place on a form (32), - fixing the sole (4) and the heel (5) on said first mounting (3).  9.- Method according to claim 8, characterized in that it consists in assembling the flexible (8) and rigid (9) parts constituting the first mounting (3) before installation on the mounting form (32).  10.- Method according to claim 9, characterized in that it consists in assembling the flexible (8) and rigid (9) parts constituting the first assembly (3) before securing said flexible part (8) with the lining ( 2).