FR2706301A1 - Cosmetic night preparation intended for combating skin aging - Google Patents

Cosmetic night preparation intended for combating skin aging Download PDF

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Publication number
FR2706301A1
FR2706301A1 FR9309635A FR9309635A FR2706301A1 FR 2706301 A1 FR2706301 A1 FR 2706301A1 FR 9309635 A FR9309635 A FR 9309635A FR 9309635 A FR9309635 A FR 9309635A FR 2706301 A1 FR2706301 A1 FR 2706301A1
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FR
France
Prior art keywords
cosmetic preparation
preparation according
night
cosmetic
soluble
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
FR9309635A
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French (fr)
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FR2706301B1 (en
Inventor
Courtin Olivier
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Clarins SA
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Clarins SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR9306893A external-priority patent/FR2706294B3/en
Application filed by Clarins SA filed Critical Clarins SA
Priority to FR9309635A priority Critical patent/FR2706301B1/en
Publication of FR2706301A1 publication Critical patent/FR2706301A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of FR2706301B1 publication Critical patent/FR2706301B1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic night preparation intended for combating skin aging. It contains at least one aqueous phase and/or one oily phase, and contains at least one soluble substance, chosen from water-soluble and/or fat-soluble substances, which is capable of trapping metal ions and in particular the iron present in the skin and which constitutes at night, in the absence of UV radiation, the main element for production of free radicals which are induced by the basal metabolism, so as to obtain an anti-free-radical active principle which is specific to the night.

Description

La présente invention concerne une préparation cosmétique deThe present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation of

nuit destinée à la lutte contre le vieillissement cutané.  night intended for the fight against skin aging.

Il est bien connu que la peau, comme d'autres organes d'ailleurs, est soumise à un rythme biologique interne s'exprimant par 24 heures ou en jour-nuit. Ces rythmes, dits rythmes circadiens, font varier non seulement la physiologie, mais aussi la réactivité de la  It is well known that the skin, like other organs for that matter, is subject to an internal biological rhythm expressed by 24 hours or day-night. These rhythms, called circadian rhythms, vary not only the physiology, but also the reactivity of the

peau selon l'horaire.skin according to the schedule.

Il a été déterminé que trois éléments sont à l'origine des phénomènes de vieillissement par la production de radicaux libres: - l'oxygène - les radiations ultra-violettes (U.V) - les ions métalliques et notamment le fer présent dans la  It has been determined that three elements are at the origin of aging phenomena by the production of free radicals: - oxygen - ultraviolet radiation (U.V) - metal ions and in particular the iron present in the

peau comme dans tous les tissus.skin as in all tissues.

Cependant il convient de faire une distinction entre les radicaux libres induits le jour, par les radiations U.V, de ceux produits par le métabolisme de base, la nuit donc en  However, a distinction should be made between the free radicals induced during the day, by UV radiation, from those produced by basic metabolism, therefore at night.

l'absence d'U.V.the absence of UV

S'il est connu des principes actifs antiradicalaires qui correspondent à des systèmes antiradicalaires de jour, la notion de système antiradicalaire de nuit est par contre mal  If anti-free radical active ingredients are known which correspond to anti-free radical systems by day, the concept of anti-free radical system at night is however bad.

connu en ce qui le concerne.known as far as he is concerned.

Or, il est important d'agir au moment o les cellules basales de l'épiderme se multiplient le plus, c'est à dire quand le taux de renouvellement cellulaire passe par un maximum, la nuit. En conséquence, l'équilibre biologique des tissus cutanés requiert l'utilisation de produits cosmétiques toute la nuit, ce qui permet de pallier aux besoins de la peau, dont le  However, it is important to act at the time when the basal cells of the epidermis multiply the most, that is to say when the cell renewal rate goes through a maximum, at night. Consequently, the biological balance of skin tissue requires the use of cosmetic products overnight, which makes it possible to meet the needs of the skin, including

rythme de vie est ralenti.pace of life has slowed down.

C'est ainsi que selon une première phase de la démarche inventive, il a été recherché une composition cosmétique  Thus, according to a first phase of the inventive step, a cosmetic composition was sought

capable d'empêcher, la nuit, la formation de radicaux libres.  able to prevent the formation of free radicals at night.

A cet effet, l'invention,concerne une préparation cosmétique de nuit, destinée à la lutte contre le vieillissement cutané caractérisée en ce qu'elle comporte au moins une phase aqueuse et/ou une phase huileuse, et contient au moins une substance soluble choisie parmi les substances hydrosolubles et/ou liposolubles, apte à piéger les ions métalliques et notamment le fer présent dans la peau et constituant la nuit, en l'absence de radiations U.V, le principal élément de production de radicaux libres qui sont induits par le métabolisme de base, de manière à obtenir un principe actif  To this end, the invention relates to a night cosmetic preparation, intended for the fight against skin aging, characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous phase and / or an oily phase, and contains at least one selected soluble substance. among the water-soluble and / or liposoluble substances, capable of trapping metal ions and in particular the iron present in the skin and constituting at night, in the absence of UV radiation, the main element for the production of free radicals which are induced by metabolism basic, so as to obtain an active ingredient

antiradicalaire spécifique à la nuit.  anti-free radical at night.

Dans cet objectif, la substance soluble est la "NOCTOFERRINE" qui est une glyco protéine apte à piéger le fer, et rentrant dans ladite préparation dans une fourchette comprise entre 1 % et 10 %, évitant ainsi la formation de radicaux libres la  For this purpose, the soluble substance is "NOCTOFERRINE" which is a glyco protein capable of trapping iron, and included in said preparation in a range between 1% and 10%, thus avoiding the formation of free radicals.

nuit, pour une parfaite détente de la peau.  night, for perfect relaxation of the skin.

Il est à préciser ici que la "NOCTOFERRINE" est une marque  It should be noted here that the "NOCTOFERRINE" is a brand

déposée par la société "SEDERMA".  registered by the company "SEDERMA".

Ainsi détoxifiée, la peau est en meilleure forme et va donc assurer plus facilement ses fonctions de récupération,  Thus detoxified, the skin is in better shape and will therefore more easily perform its recovery functions,

réparation, hydratation et régénération.  repair, hydration and regeneration.

De manière à améliorer son efficacité, c'est à dire une meilleure mise à disposition de la peau, il est possible d'encapsuler ce principe actif dans des nanovésicules membranaires par exemple à base de lécithine de soja: On obtient ainsi une: * protection de l'ingrédient ò meilleure absorption * pénétration plus efficace  In order to improve its effectiveness, that is to say better provision of the skin, it is possible to encapsulate this active principle in membrane nanovesicles, for example based on soy lecithin: This gives a: * protection of the ingredient ò better absorption * more effective penetration

* action prolongée dans le temps.* action prolonged in time.

Les vitamines qui ont été choisies sont les plus efficaces bien qu'instables car dégradées par la lumière du jour; il s'agit de propionate de rétinol et de biotine à raison de 0,1 à 5%. D'autres constituants encore peuvent améliorer les propriétés de la composition selon l'invention, qui peut comporter de manière optionnelle un au moins des composés suivants: * Tilleul pour son action lénitive 1-5 % * Cire de fleurs d'oranger pour son action calmante et adoucissante 0,5-5 % * Perhydrosqualène extrait de l'olive pour la reconstitution du sébum 1-20 % * Huile de kiwi, riche en acides gras essentiels comme l'acide linoléique 1-20 % * Un agent hygroscopique, le miel en solution glycolique, représentant 0,3 à 20 % de miel et contenant des  The vitamins that have been chosen are the most effective although unstable because they are degraded by daylight; it is retinol propionate and biotin at 0.1 to 5%. Still other constituents can improve the properties of the composition according to the invention, which can optionally comprise at least one of the following compounds: * Linden for its lenitive action 1-5% * Orange blossom wax for its action soothing and softening 0.5-5% * Perhydrosqualene olive extract for the reconstitution of sebum 1-20% * Kiwi oil, rich in essential fatty acids like linoleic acid 1-20% * A hygroscopic agent, the honey in glycolic solution, representing 0.3 to 20% of honey and containing

Alpha Hydroxy Acides.Alpha Hydroxy Acids.

La composition, selon l'invention, peut se présenter sous forme d'une émulsion huile dans eau ou eau dans huile, d'un  The composition according to the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a

gel aqueux ou d'une lotion.aqueous gel or lotion.

Dans le cas d'une émulsion huile dans eau, des particules de phase aqueuse peuvent être limitées par des membranes en  In the case of an oil-in-water emulsion, particles of aqueous phase can be limited by membranes in

phase huileuse.oily phase.

Avantageusement, plusieurs membranes fermées concentriques en phase huileuse emprisonnent entre elles des couches de phase aqueuse qui sont ainsi séparées les unes des autres. Ce sont ces particules et ces couches de phase aqueuse qui sont libérées progressivement par la rupture successive des  Advantageously, several concentric closed membranes in the oily phase trap between them layers of aqueous phase which are thus separated from each other. It is these particles and these layers of aqueous phase which are gradually released by the successive rupture of the

membranes qui les entourent.membranes that surround them.

Une formule de composition cosmétique selon l'invention est donnée à titre d'exemple non limitatif (composition donnée en pourcentage poids) * Stéarate de glycérol 3.0 * Ether de cholestérol Polyoxyéthylène 0.5 * Ether de glucose 1.0 * Perhydrosqualène 3.0 * Succinate de dioctyle 3.0 * Huiles de silicone 8.0 * Cire de fleurs d'oranger 1.0 * Extrait de tilleul 2.0 * Polymère d'acrylamide 1.5 * Huile de kiwi 1.0 * Biotine 0.01 * Propionate de rétinol 0.1 * Miel en solution glycolique à 20 % 2.0 * Noctoferrine 4.0 * Lécithine de soja 1.0 * Parfum 0.2 * Conservateurs 0.5 * Eau purifiée q.s.p. 100 De par sa composition, le parfum est choisi en fonction de ses caractéristiques non seulement olfactives mais surtout aromathérapiques, en particulier par addition de plantes calmantes et relaxantes telles que: tilleul, fleur-d':rianger  A cosmetic composition formula according to the invention is given by way of nonlimiting example (composition given as a percentage by weight) * Glycerol stearate 3.0 * Cholesterol ether Polyoxyethylene 0.5 * Glucose ether 1.0 * Perhydrosqualene 3.0 * Dioctyl succinate 3.0 * Silicone oils 8.0 * Orange flower wax 1.0 * Linden extract 2.0 * Acrylide polymer 1.5 * Kiwi oil 1.0 * Biotin 0.01 * Retinol propionate 0.1 * Honey in 20% glycolic solution 2.0 * Noctoferrin 4.0 * Lecithin soy 1.0 * Fragrance 0.2 * Preservatives 0.5 * Purified water qs 100 Due to its composition, the perfume is chosen according to its not only olfactory but above all aromatherapy characteristics, in particular by the addition of calming and relaxing plants such as: linden, fleur-d ': rianger

et ylang.and ylang.

Bien entendu, il est possible de s'écarter quelque peu de la formule ci-dessus, sans sortir pour autant du cadre de l'invention.  Of course, it is possible to deviate somewhat from the above formula, without thereby departing from the scope of the invention.

Claims (9)

REVENDICATIONS 1) Préparation cosmétique de nuit, destinée à la lutte contre le vieillissement cutané, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comporte au moins une phase aqueuse et/ou une phase huileuse et contient au moins une substance soluble choisie parmi les substances hydrosolubles et/ou liposolubles, apte à piéger les ions métalliques et notamment le fer présent dans la peau et constituant la nuit, en l'absence de radiations U.V, le principal élément de production de radicaux libres qui sont induits par le métabolisme de base, de manière à obtenir un  1) Night cosmetic preparation, intended for the fight against skin aging, characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous phase and / or one oily phase and contains at least one soluble substance chosen from water-soluble and / or liposoluble substances , able to trap metal ions and in particular iron present in the skin and constituting at night, in the absence of UV radiation, the main element for the production of free radicals which are induced by basic metabolism, so as to obtain a principe actif antiradicalaire spécifique à la nuit.  anti-free radical active ingredient at night. 2) Préparation cosmétique selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que la substance soluble est la "NOCTOFERRINE" qui est une glyco protéine apte à piéger le fer, et rentrant dans ladite préparation dans une fourchette  2) Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the soluble substance is "NOCTOFERRINE" which is a glyco protein capable of trapping iron, and entering said preparation in a fork comprise entre 1 % et 10 %.between 1% and 10%. 3) Préparation cosmétique selon l'une des revendications 1 ou  3) Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2, caractérisée en ce que le principe actif antiradicalaire  2, characterized in that the active anti-free radical ingredient de nuit est encapsulé dans des nanovésicules membranaires.  at night is encapsulated in membrane nanovesicles. 4) Préparation cosmétique selon la revendication 3, caractérisée en ce que les nanovésicules membranaires sont à  4) Cosmetic preparation according to claim 3, characterized in that the membrane nanovesicles are at base de lécithine de soja.soy lecithin base. ) Préparation cosmétique selon l'une des revendications 1 à  ) Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 4, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient de plus et de manière optionnelle des vitamines telles que propionate de rétinol et  4, characterized in that it additionally and optionally contains vitamins such as retinol propionate and biotine selon un pourcentage poids compris entre 0,1 et 5 %.  biotin according to a weight percentage between 0.1 and 5%. 6) Préparation cosmétique selon l'une des revendications  6) Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient en pourcentage poids et de manière optionnelle; - entre 1 et 5 % de tilleul, - entre 0,5 et 5 % de cire de fleurs d'oranger, - entre 1 et 20 % de Perhydrosqualène extrait de l'olive, - entre 1 et 20 % d'huile de kiwi, - entre 0,3 et 20 % de miel en solution glycolique, contenant des Alpha Hydroxy Acides, et constituant un agent  previous, characterized in that it contains in weight percentage and optionally; - between 1 and 5% linden, - between 0.5 and 5% orange blossom wax, - between 1 and 20% of Perhydrosqualene extracted from the olive, - between 1 and 20% kiwi oil , - between 0.3 and 20% honey in glycolic solution, containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids, and constituting an agent hygroscopique.hygroscopic. 7) Préparation cosmétique selon l'une des revendications  7) Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle se présente sous  previous, characterized in that it is presented under forme d'une émulsion huile dans eau ou inversement.  form of an oil-in-water emulsion or vice versa. 8) Préparation cosmétique selon l'une des revendications 1 à  8) Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 6, caractérisée en ce qu'elle se présente sous la.forme d'un  6, characterized in that it is in the form of a gel aqueux.aqueous gel. 9) Préparation cosmétique selon l'une des revendications 1 à  9) Cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 6, caractérisée en ce qu'elle se présente sous forme d'une lotion.  6, characterized in that it is in the form of a lotion. 10) préparation cosmétique selon l'une des revendications  10) cosmetic preparation according to one of claims précédentes caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend en outre un parfum qui est choisi en fonction de ses caractéristiques olfactives et aromathérapiques en particulier par addition de plantes calmantes et relaxantes telles que tilleul, fleur  previous characterized in that it further comprises a fragrance which is chosen according to its olfactory and aromatherapy characteristics in particular by the addition of calming and relaxing plants such as linden, flower d'oranger, ylang.orange tree, ylang.
FR9309635A 1993-06-09 1993-08-04 Cosmetic night preparation for the fight against skin aging. Expired - Fee Related FR2706301B1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9309635A FR2706301B1 (en) 1993-06-09 1993-08-04 Cosmetic night preparation for the fight against skin aging.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9306893A FR2706294B3 (en) 1993-06-09 1993-06-09 Cosmetic night preparation for the fight against skin aging.
FR9309635A FR2706301B1 (en) 1993-06-09 1993-08-04 Cosmetic night preparation for the fight against skin aging.

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
FR2706301A1 true FR2706301A1 (en) 1994-12-23
FR2706301B1 FR2706301B1 (en) 1995-09-01

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19701651A1 (en) * 1997-01-18 1998-07-23 Rovi Gmbh Handelsgesellschaft Aqueous composition with liposomes containing biotin
FR2777194A1 (en) * 1998-04-10 1999-10-15 Lvmh Rech Stable water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion without greasy feel
FR2777195A1 (en) * 1998-04-10 1999-10-15 Lvmh Rech Stable water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion with non-greasy feel
EP1449514A1 (en) * 2003-02-13 2004-08-25 Beiersdorf AG Skin care compositions with retinoids, ubiquinones, and biotin or carnitine

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2596986A1 (en) * 1986-04-11 1987-10-16 Sederma Sa Use of lactoferrin in cosmetic preparations acting against free radicals
EP0313305A2 (en) * 1987-10-22 1989-04-26 The Procter & Gamble Company Photoprotection compositions comprising chelating agents
FR2641696A2 (en) * 1986-04-11 1990-07-20 Sederma Sa Use of a mixture containing lactoferrin in cosmetic anti-free-radical preparations

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2596986A1 (en) * 1986-04-11 1987-10-16 Sederma Sa Use of lactoferrin in cosmetic preparations acting against free radicals
FR2641696A2 (en) * 1986-04-11 1990-07-20 Sederma Sa Use of a mixture containing lactoferrin in cosmetic anti-free-radical preparations
EP0313305A2 (en) * 1987-10-22 1989-04-26 The Procter & Gamble Company Photoprotection compositions comprising chelating agents
EP0496433A2 (en) * 1987-10-22 1992-07-29 The Procter & Gamble Company Photoprotection compositions comprising chelating agents
EP0496434A2 (en) * 1987-10-22 1992-07-29 The Procter & Gamble Company Photoprotection compositions comprising chelating agents

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19701651A1 (en) * 1997-01-18 1998-07-23 Rovi Gmbh Handelsgesellschaft Aqueous composition with liposomes containing biotin
FR2777194A1 (en) * 1998-04-10 1999-10-15 Lvmh Rech Stable water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion without greasy feel
FR2777195A1 (en) * 1998-04-10 1999-10-15 Lvmh Rech Stable water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion with non-greasy feel
EP1449514A1 (en) * 2003-02-13 2004-08-25 Beiersdorf AG Skin care compositions with retinoids, ubiquinones, and biotin or carnitine

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