ES2720228T3 - Anhydrous cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanine and an oil phase - Google Patents

Abstract

An anhydrous cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable support: a) at least one merocyanine compound corresponding to the following formula (3), and also its forms of geometric isomers E / E or E / Z; ** Formula ** in which: A is -O- or -NH; R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group, or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups being possible to be interrupted with one or more O, and b) at least one oil phase comprising at least one oil selected from oils based on hydrocarbons, silicone oils, and fluoroaceites, and mixtures thereof.

Description

DESCRIPTION

Anhydrous cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanine and an oil phase

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable support:

a) at least one merocyanine compound of formula (3) defined below, and

b) at least one oil phase comprising at least one oil selected from oils based on hydrocarbons, silicone oils, and fluoroaceites, and mixtures thereof.

Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic procedure for caring for and / or making up a keratin material, which comprises the application, at the surface of said keratin material, of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or uniformity of the complexion, which comprises the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition. as previously defined.

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material, comprising the application, at the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.

It is known that radiation of wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allows tanning of the human epidermis, and that radiation with wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, damages the development of A natural tan. The exposure is also likely to cause a harmful change in the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, which is reflected in the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature aging of the skin.

It is also known that UV-A rays with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm penetrate deeper into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate and persistent darkening of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even of short duration, under normal conditions can lead to damage of collagen fibers and elastin, which is reflected by a modification in the micro relief of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation uneven (liver spots, lack of uniformity of the complexion).

Thus, protection against UVA and UVB rays is necessary. An efficient photoprotective product should protect against both UVA and UVB radiation.

To date, many photoprotective compositions have been proposed to overcome the effects induced by UVA and / or UVB radiation. They generally contain organic or mineral UV radiation filter agents, which function according to their own chemical nature and according to their own properties by absorption, reflection or dispersion of UV radiation. They generally comprise mixtures of fat-soluble organic filter agents and / or water-soluble UV radiation filter agents, in combination with metal oxide pigments, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.

To date, many cosmetic compositions have been proposed to limit the darkening of the skin and improve the color and uniformity of the complexion. It is well known in the field of sunscreen products that such compositions can be obtained using UV radiation filter agents, and in particular UVB radiation filter agents. Certain compositions may also contain UVA radiation filter agents. This filter system should cover UVB protection in order to limit and control melanin neosynthesis, which promotes global pigmentation, but should also cover UVA protection to limit and control the oxidation of the existing melanin that leads at darkening of skin color.

However, it is extremely difficult to find a composition that contains a particular combination of UV radiation filter agents that is especially suitable for photoprotecting the skin and particularly for improving the quality of the skin with respect to both the color and its mechanical properties of elasticity. Advantageously, this improvement is particularly sought in already pigmented skin, so as not to increase the pigment load of melanin or the structure of melanin already present in the skin.

In fact, most organic UV radiation filter agents consist of aromatic compounds that absorb in the wavelength range between 280 and 370 nm. In addition to their power to filter sunlight, the desired photoprotective compounds should also have good cosmetic properties, good solubility in common solvents, and in particular in fatty substances such as oils, and also good chemical stability and good photostability, alone or in combination with other UV radiation filter agents. They should also be colorless, or at least have a color that is cosmetically acceptable to the consumer.

One of the main drawbacks known to date of these compositions is that these filter systems are insufficiently effective against UV rays, and in particular against distant UVA rays with wavelengths beyond 370 nm, in order to control pigmentation. photoinduced and its evolution by means of a system to filter UV radiation throughout the entire UV spectrum.

Among all the compounds that have been recommended for this purpose, an advantageous family of ^{U v} radiation filter agents ^, consisting of carbon-based merocyanine derivatives, which is described in US 4195999, has been proposed in the application for WO 2004/006878, in patent applications WO2008 / 090066, WO2011 / 113718, WO2009 / 027258, WO2013 / 010590, WO2013 / 011094, WO2013 / 011480, and in IP COM JOURNAL documents n ° 000179675D published on February 23 2009, IP COM JOURNAL No. 000182396D published on April 29, IP COM JOURNAL No. 000189542D published on November 12, 2009, IP COM Journal No. IP COM 000011179D published on 04/03/2004. Some of these compounds may show the following disadvantages:

- relatively unsatisfactory solubility in common solvents, and in particular in fatty substances such as oils, which may require a laborious formulation process and / or may result in cosmetic problems such as a greasy effect upon application;

- unsatisfactory chemical stability and / or unsatisfactory photostability;

- produce a color that can discourage the consumer from using a cosmetic or dermatological composition that contains them.

Thus, there is still a need to find new formulations comprising an oil phase and at least one merocyanine compound, without the previously defined drawbacks. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered anhydrous compositions comprising at least one oil phase and at least one merocyanine compound of formula (3) defined below, which make it possible to achieve this objective.

In addition, the merocyanine compounds of formula (3), below, surprisingly have the advantage of being significantly less colored than the merocyanine compounds described in applications WO2008 / 090066 and WO2009 / 027258 as compound MC11 (MC03).

These findings form the basis of the present invention.

Thus, according to one of the objects of the present invention, a cosmetic or dermatological composition is now proposed, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable support:

a) at least one merocyanine compound of formula (3) defined below, and

b) at least one oil phase comprising at least one oil chosen from oils based on hydrocarbons, silicone oils and fluoroaceites, and mixtures thereof.

Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic procedure for caring for and / or making up a keratin material, which comprises the application, at the surface of said keratin material, of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or uniformity of the complexion, which comprises the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition such as It is previously defined.

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material, comprising the application, at the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.

Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge upon reading the detailed description that follows.

The term "human keratin materials" means the skin (body, face, area around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips, or mucous membranes.

The term "pharmaceutically acceptable" means compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, smell and sensation, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (itching, tension or redness) that may dissuade the consumer from using this composition. .

The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition that contains less than 1% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% water, and especially is free of water, not adding water during the preparation of the composition, but which corresponds to the wastewater provided by the mixed ingredients.

The expression "between X and Y" means the range of values that also includes the limits X and Y.

According to the invention, the term "prevent" or "prevention" means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowdown of the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratin material.

MEROCIANINS

According to the present invention, the merocyanine compounds according to the invention correspond to the formula (3) below, and also their forms of geometric isomers E / E or E / Z:

in which:

A is -O- or -NH;

R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group, or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups possibly being interrupted with one or more O.

The merocyanine compounds of the invention may be in their forms of geometric isomers E / E or E / Z.

Even more preferred compounds of formula (3) are those in which:

A is -O-; R is a C1-C22 alkyl, which may be interrupted with one or more O.

Among the compounds of formula (3), use will be made more particularly of those chosen from the following group, and also their forms of geometric isomers E / E or E / Z:

According to a more particularly preferred mode of the invention, use will be made of the compound (2Z) -cyano {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cidohex-2-en-1-ylidene} 2-ethoxyethyl ethanoate (25) in its geometric configuration E / E and / or E / Z. The E / Z form has the following structure:

The E / E form has the following structure:

The filter merocyanines according to the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The compounds of formula (3) can be prepared according to known procedures, as described, for example, in J. Org. Chem. U ^s S ^r (English translation) 26 (8), p. 1562f (1990); J. Heterocycl. Chem. 33 (3), p. 763-766 (1996); Khimiya Geterotsiklicheskikh Soedinenii 11, p. 1537-1543 (1984); Khimiya Geterotsiklicheskikh Soedinenii 3, p. 397-404 (1982); Chem. Heterocycl. Comp. (English translation) 24 (8), 914-919 (1988) and in Synthetic Communications Vol. 33, No. 3, 2003, p 367-371.

The synthesis of the compounds used in the present invention is also described in US 2003/0 181 483 A1, WO 02/34710, Eur. J. Org. Chem. 2003, 2250-2253, J. Med. Chem. 1996, 39, 1112-1124 and J. Org. Chem., Vol. 37, No. 8, 1972, 1141-1145, as follows:

Compounds with acidic CH are reacted with amide acetals.

In J. Heterocyclic Chem., 27, 1990, 1143-1151, esters of aminoacrylic acid or aminoacrylonitriles are reacted with ethoxymethylene ether acetates in ethanol to form the corresponding compounds of the present invention.

The compounds of formula (1) or (2), in which R4 and R5, on the one hand, or Rg and R10, on the other hand, together form a carbocyclic ring containing 6 carbon atoms, respectively, can be prepared according to the protocols described in patent application WO 2007/071 582, in IP.com Journal (2009), 9 (5A), 29-30 IPCOM000182396D with the title "Procedure for producing 3-amino-2-cyclohexan-1- compounds ilidénicos ”, and in document US-A-4749643, in column 13, line 66 - column 14, line 57, and the references cited in this regard.

OLEOUS PHASE

The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one oil phase.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "oil phase" means a phase comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable water immiscible oil other than aromatic hydrocarbons (for example toluene), and also all fat-soluble and lipophilic ingredients and cosmetically fatty substances Acceptable used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

An oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be volatile or nonvolatile.

An oil that is suitable for use in the invention can be chosen from oils based on hydrocarbons, silicone oils, and fluoroaceites, and mixtures thereof.

A hydrocarbon-based oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon-based oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon-based oil, a mineral hydrocarbon-based oil or a synthetic hydrocarbon-based oil.

An oil that is suitable for use in the invention can be advantageously chosen from oils based on mineral hydrocarbons, oils based on vegetable hydrocarbons, oils based on synthetic hydrocarbons and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-O group.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil that mainly comprises hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The term "fluoroaceite" means an oil that comprises at least one fluorine atom.

A hydrocarbon-based oil that is suitable for use in the invention may optionally further comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl, amine, amide, ester, ether or acid groups, and in particularly in the form of hydroxyl, ester, ether or acid groups.

The oil phase generally comprises, in addition to the lipophilic UV radiation filter agent or agents, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that is able to evaporate on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil or oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10- 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains in the skin or keratin fiber, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours, and in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mmHg. (0.13 Pa).

Hydrocarbon based oils

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of:

(i) hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride tri-esters, which are in general fatty acid and glycerol tri-esters, fatty acids which may have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, these chains being possible are saturated or unsaturated and are linear or branched; These oils are, in particular, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil , soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, zucchini oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui nut oil, passionflower oil and rosehip oil; or also triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel;

(ii) synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalene, and mixtures thereof;

(iv) synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula RCOOR ', in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that

RR 'is> 10, for example purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, erucate oleyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisoestearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di (linear C12-C13 alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also di tartrates (linear C14-C15 alkyl), such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; or acetates;

(v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, which contain a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2 -butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;

(vi) higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

(vii) carbonates, such as dicaprilyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis;

(viii) fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205® from Ajinomoto;

and mixtures thereof.

Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride trimesters, and in particular to caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters, and in particular isononyl isononanoate, erucate oleyl, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol.

As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular branched Cs-C-16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007/068371 or WO 2008/155059 (mixtures of different alkanes that differ by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are obtained themselves from coconut or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecano (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155059 from the Cognis company. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), sold by Sasol with the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97®, and also mixtures thereof.

Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils can also be used, for example petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by Shell. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

b) Silicone oils

Non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or which are at the end of the silicone chain, groups each containing 2 at 24 carbon atoms, or phenylsilicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl (trimethylsiloxy) diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl) trisiloxanes or trimethylsiloxysilicates of (2-phenylethyl).

Examples of volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity <8 centistokes (8 x 10-6 m2 / s) and especially containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethylmethylpeanoyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxylmethyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxyl tentaxyl ether mixture

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (I):

wherein R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, whose one or more hydrogen atoms can be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of:

3-Butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

which correspond to the oils of the formula (I) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

Fluoroaceites

It is also possible to make use of volatile fluoroaceites, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

An oil phase according to the invention may also comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.

Another fatty substance that may be present in the oil phase may be, for example:

- a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

- a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignitic waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozoquerite waxes, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes;

- a rubber chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol);

- a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of a glycerol oligomer, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives;

- and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular form of the invention, the overall oil phase, including all lipophilic substances of the composition that are capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 2% to 100% by weight, and preferably from 10% to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

ADDITIVES

a) Additional water insoluble filter agents

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the merocyanine compound or compounds of formula (3), one or more water insoluble UV radiation filter agents.

The term "water insoluble UV radiation filter agent" means any organic or mineral compound that is capable of filtering UV radiation in the wavelength range of 280 to 400 nm by absorption, reflection and / or dispersion; said compound having a solubility in water at 25 ° C of less than 1% by weight or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even more, less than 0.1% by weight.

Water insoluble UV radiation filter agents are generally chosen from organic UV radiation filter agents that are lipophilic or oil insoluble, and / or mineral filter agents.

The term "lipophilic filter agent" means any cosmetic or dermatological organic or mineral compound to filter UV radiation, which can be completely dissolved in a molecular state in a liquid fatty phase, or that can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form ) in a liquid fatty phase.

The term "oil insoluble UV radiation filter agent" means any cosmetic or dermatological organic or mineral compound for filtering UV radiation, which has a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin. liquid, fatty alkyl benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® sold by the Dynamit Nobel company. This solubility, determined at 70 ° C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent in equilibrium with an excess of suspended solid after returning to room temperature. It can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.

Additional organic UV radiation filter agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilates; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; p, p-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in US Patent 5624663; benzimidazole compounds; imidazolines; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds; methylenebis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as those described in US patent applications 5237071, US 5166355, GB 2303549, DE 19726184 and Ep 893119; benzoxazole compounds, such as those described in patent applications EP 0832642, EP 1027883, EP 1300137 and DE 10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones, such as those described in particular in patent application WO 93/04665; dimers based on α-alkylstyrene, such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, such as those described in patent applications EP 0967200, DE 19746654, DE 19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP 1133980 and EP 133981, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of organic photoprotective agents, mention may be made of those listed below using their INCI names:

Cinnamic Compounds:

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX® by DSM Nutritional Products,

Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,

Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise, DEA methoxycinnamate,

Diisopropyl Methylcinamate,

Glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

Butylmethoxidibenzoylmethane, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789® by DSM Nutritional Products,

Isopropyldibenzoylmethane.

Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds:

PABA,

Ethyl PABA,

Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA,

Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, sold particularly under the name Escalol 507® by ISP,

PABA glyceril,

PEG-25 PABA, sold under the name Uvinul P25® by BASF.

Salicylic compounds:

Homosalate, sold under the name Eusolex HMS® by Rona / EM Industries,

Ethylhexyl salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS® by Symrise,

Dipropylene glycol salicylate, sold under the name Dipsal® by Scher,

TEA salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise.

Compounds of p, p-diphenylacrylate:

Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N539® by BASF,

Etocrileno, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35® by BASF.

Benzophenone Compounds:

Benzophenone-1, sold under the trade name Uvinul 400® by BASF,

Benzophenone-2, sold under the trade name Uvinul D50® by BASF,

Benzophenone-3 or Oxibenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M40® by BASF,

Benzophenone-4, sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40® by BASF,

Benzophenone-5,

Benzophenone-6, sold under the trade name Helisorb 11® by Norquay,

Benzophenone-8, sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24® by American Cyanamid,

Benzophenone-9, sold under the trade name Uvinul DS 49® by BASF,

Benzophenone-12,

2- (4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -n-hexyl benzoate, sold under the trade name Uvinul A Plus® or in the form of a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name Uvinul A Plus B® by BASF,

1,1 '- (1,4-piperazindiyl) bis [1- [2- [4- (diethyl-amino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] phenyl] methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in WO 2007/071584 patent application; this compound being used advantageously in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 | im), which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in patent applications GB-A-2303549 and EP-A-893119 , and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.

Benzylidenefield compounds:

3- Bencilidenalcamp, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD® by Chimex,

4- Methylbenzylidenal campfor, sold under the name Eusolex 6300® by Merck,

Benzylidenecanphosulfonic acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL® by Chimex,

Canfobenzalkonium Metosulfate, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO® by Chimex,

Terephthalylidenedicanphosphonic acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX® by Chimex, Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenalcampformer, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW® by Chimex.

Phenylbenzimidazole compounds:

Phenylbenzimidazolsulfonic acid, sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.

Bis-benzazolyl compounds:

Disodium phenyldibenzimidazoltetrasulfonate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP® by Haarmann and Reimer.

Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:

Drometrizol trisiloxane, sold under the name Silatrizole® by Rhodia Chimie.

Methylenebis compounds (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole):

Methylenebis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol, especially in solid form, for example the product sold under the trade name Mixxim BB / 100® by Fairmount Chemical, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with an average particle size ranging from 0, 01 to 5 | im, more preferably 0.01 to 2 | im, and more particularly 0.020 to 2 | im, with at least one alkyl polyglycoside surfactant having the structure CnH2n + 1O (C6H1UO5) xH, in that n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H10O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in GB-A-2303549, sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb M® by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 | im, more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 | im, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 | im, in the presence of at least one monoalkyl ester Poly (C8-C20) polyglyceryl with a polymerization degree of glycerol of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent application WO 2009/063392.

Triazine compounds:

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine, sold under the trade name Tinosorb S® by BASF, Ethylhexyltriazone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150® by BASF, Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB® by Sigma 3V,

2.4.6- tris- (4'-aminobenzalmalonate dineopentyl) -s-triazine,

2.4.6- tris- (4'-diisobutyl aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,

N-butyl 2,4-bis (4'-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine,

Dineopentyl 2,4-bis (4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl) -s-triazine 4'-aminobenzoate,

symmetric triazine filter agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US patent 6225467, in patent application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or in the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives", IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC, West Henrietta, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris (diphenyl) triazine and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) triazine, which is also mentioned in Patent applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992 and WO 2006/034985, these compounds being used advantageously in micronized form (average particle size 0.02 to 3 | im) which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in patent applications GB-A-2303549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion; silicone triazines substituted with two aminobenzoate groups, as described in EP 0841341, in particular 2,4-bis (4'-aminobenzalmalonate of n-butyl) -6 - [(3- {1,3,3, 3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl} propyl) amino] -s-triazine.

Anthranilic compounds:

Mentyl anthranilate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA® by Symrise.

Imidazoline compounds:

Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazolinpropionate.

Benzalmalonate Compounds:

Polyorganosiloxanes comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-LaRoche.

4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds:

1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

Benzoxazole compounds:

2,4-Bis [4- [5- (1,1-dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl] phenylimino] -6 - [(2-ethylhexyl) imino] -1,3,5-triazine, sold under the name Uvasorb K2 A® by Sigma 3v.

Preferred organic filter agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,

Ethylhexyl salicylate,

Homosalate,

Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene,

Phenylbenzimidazolsulfonic acid,

Benzophenone-3,

Benzophenone-4,

Benzophenone-5,

N-hexyl 2- (4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate,

4-Methylbenzylidenal camphor,

Terephthalicidenedicanphosulfonic acid,

Disodium phenyldibenzimidazoltetrasulfonate,

Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol,

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine,

Ethylhexyl triazone,

Diethylhexyl butamide triazone,

2.4.6- Tris (4'-aminobenzalmalonate dineopentyl) -s-triazine,

2.4.6- Tris (4'-diisobutyl aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine,

N-butyl 2,4-bis (4'-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine,

2.4- Bis (4'-aminobenzalmalonate of dineopentyl) -6- (4'-aminobenzoate of n-butyl) -s-triazine,

2.4.6- Tris (diphenyl) triazine,

2.4.6- Tris (terphenyl) triazine,

N-Butyl bis-4 (4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6 - [(3- {1,3,3,3-tetrametiM - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl} propyl) amino] -s-triazine,

Drometrizol trisiloxane,

Polysilicone-15,

1,1-Dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene,

2.4- Bis [4 [5- (1,1-dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl] phenylimino] -6 - [(2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine,

and their mixtures.

Particularly preferred organic filter agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl salicylate,

Homosalate,

Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene,

N-hexyl 2- (4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate,

Terephthalicidenedicanphosulfonic acid,

Bis (ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyltriazine,

Ethylhexyl triazone,

Diethylhexyl butamide triazone,

N-Butyl bis (4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6 - [(3- {1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl} propyl) amino] -s-triazine,

Drometrizol trisiloxane,

and their mixtures.

The additional mineral UV radiation filter agents used according to the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the mineral UV radiation filter agents are metal oxide particles with an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, even more preferably between 0 , 01 and 0.2 | im, better still between 0.01 and 0.1 | im, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 | im.

In particular, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof, may be selected.

Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0518773. Commercial pigments that may be mentioned include products sold by the companies Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.

The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated, and preferably coated with at least one hydrophobic material.

Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium salts, de potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:

- with silica, such as the Sunveil® product from Ikeda,

- with silica and iron oxide, such as the Sunveil F® product from Ikeda,

- with silica and alumina, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA® and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA products from Tayca, and Tioveil from Tioxide,

- with alumina, such as Tipaque TTO-55 (B) ® and Tipaque TTO-55 (A) ® products from Ishihara and UVT 14/4 from Sachtleben Pigments,

- with aluminum alumina and stearate, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z® and MT-01® products from Tayca, Solaveil CT-10 W® and Solaveil CT 100 products ® from Uniqema, and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from Merck,

- with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100 AQ® from Tayca,

- with alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S® from Tayca,

- with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F® product from Tayca,

- with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as product BR 351® from Tayca,

- with silica and alumina and treated with silicone, such as Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS®, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS® products from Tayca,

- with silica, alumina and aluminum stearate, and treated with silicone, such as the product STT-30-DS® from the Titan Kogyo company,

- with silica, and treated with silicone, such as the UV-Titan X 195® product from Sachtleben Pigments, - with alumina, and treated with silicone, such as Tipaque TTO-55 (S) ® products from the company of Ishihara, or UV Titan M 262® from the Sachtleben Pigments company,

- with triethanolamine, such as the product STT-65-S from the Titan Kogyo company,

- with stearic acid, such as the product Tipaque TTO-55 (C) ® from the company of Ishihara,

- with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W® from Tayca, - TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, sold under the trade name T 805® by the company Degussa Silices, - TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane, sold with the trade name 70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3® by the Cardre company,

- TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane, sold under the trade name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic® by the company Color Techniques.

Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oil dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acid. The oily dispersion of the titanium oxide particles may also comprise one or more dispersants, for example a sorbitan ester, for example sorbitan isostearate, or a glycerol polyoxyalkylene fatty acid ester, for example TRI- myristyl ether citrate PPG3 and polyglyceryl-3 polyhydricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersant chosen from glycerol polyoxyalkylene fatty acid esters. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polystyricleate and sorbitan isostearate, which has INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) myristyl ether citrate from TRI-PPG-3 (y) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (e) sorbitan isostearate, for example the product sold under the trade name Optisol TD50® by the company Croda.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the Tayca company under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide ^{M t} 600 B®, by the Degussa company under the name P 25, by the Wackher company with the name Transparent Titanium Oxide PW®, by the company Miyoshi Kasei with the name UFTR®, by the company Take with the name ITS®, and by the company Tioxide with the name Tioveil AQ.

Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

- those sold under the name Z-Cote by the Sunsmart company;

- those sold under the name Nanox® by the Elementis company;

- those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025® by the company Nanophase Technologies.

The zinc oxide pigments coated are, for example:

- those sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5® by Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);

- those sold under the name Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN® by the company Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate);

- those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-30® and Daitopersion Zn-50® by the company Daito (dispersions in oxyethylene cyclopolimethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane);

- those sold under the name NFD Ultrafine ZnO® by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl based copolymer as dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane);

- those sold under the name SPD-Z1® by the Shin-Etsu company (ZnO coated with silicone grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);

- those sold under the name Escalol Z100® by the ISP company (ZnO treated with alumina dispersed in a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene / methicone copolymer);

- those sold under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10® by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);

- those sold under the name Nanox Gel TN® by the Elementis company (ZnO dispersed at a concentration of 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate). Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide® by the Rhóne-Poulenc company.

Uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the Arnaud company under the names Nanogard WCD 2002® (FE 45B®), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ® and Nanogard WCD 2006® (FE 45R®), or by the Mitsubishi company under the name TY-220®.

Coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the Arnaud company under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN) ®, Nanogard WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345® and Nanogard FE 45 BL®, or by the BASF company with the name Transparent Iron Oxide®.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the mixture of the same weight of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company Ikeda under the name Sunveil A®, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261® sold by the company Sachtleben Pigments, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product M 211® sold by the company Sachtleben Pigments.

According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium dioxide pigments are particularly preferred, and even more particularly, titanium dioxide pigments coated with at least one hydrophobic material.

The additional UV radiation filter agents according to the invention are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

b) Other additives

The compositions according to the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen in particular from organic solvents, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preservatives, anionic, cationic, nonionic, bipolar, or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants, or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic field and / or dermatological.

Among organic solvents, mention may be made of lower alcohols and polyols. These polyols can be chosen from glycols and glycol ethers, for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

Thickeners that may be mentioned include Pemulen products (C10-C30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate copolymer) (Pemulen TR1® or Pemulen TR2®); polysaccharides, and especially gums, such as xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

Among the active agents for the care of keratin materials such as skin, lips, scalp, hair, eyelashes or nails, examples that may be mentioned include:

- vitamins and derivatives or precursors thereof, alone or as mixtures;

- antioxidants;

- free radical scrubbers;

- agents against pollution;

- self-tanning agents;

- antiglication agents;

- painkillers;

- deodorants;

- essential oils;

- NO synthase inhibitors;

- agents to stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules, and / or that prevent their decomposition;

- agents to stimulate fibroblast proliferation;

- agents to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation;

- muscle relaxants;

- refreshing agents;

- tension agents;

- mattifying agents;

- depigmenting agents;

- propigmentation agents;

- keratolytic agents;

- descaling agents;

- moisturizers;

- anti-inflammatory agents;

- antimicrobial agents;

- slimming agents;

- agents that act on the energy metabolism of cells;

- insect repellents;

- antagonists of substance P or CGRP;

- agents that counteract hair loss;

- anti-wrinkle agents;

- anti-aging agents.

A person skilled in the art will select said active principle or principles according to the desired effect on the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will be careful to select the optional additional compound or compounds mentioned above, and / or their amounts, so that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the compositions according to the invention are not adversely affected, or are not substantially affected by the addition or intended additions.

GALENIC FORMS

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art for manufacturing anhydrous compositions. They may be in the form of a fluid lotion, a gel or a compact composition, for example a hot molded composition. Optionally they can be in the form of a loose or compact powder.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a fluid composition or a gel.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "fluid composition" means a composition that is not in solid form and whose viscosity, measured using a Rheomat 180 viscometer at 25 ° C at a spindle speed of 200 rpm after 30 seconds of rotation, it is less than 0.5 Pa.s, more preferably less than 0.2 Pa.s, and more particularly ranging from 0.0001 Pa.s to 0.1 Pa.s.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the compositions will be transparent and preferably have a turbidity of less than 1000 NTU (nephelometric turbidity units) at 25 ° C, preferably less than 50 NTU at 25 ° C, and even more preferably less than 15 NTU, measured using a 2100P turbidimeter device from Hach.

According to a particular form of the invention, the composition of the invention is a fluid composition which also comprises:

a) at least one linear C1-C4 monoalkanol, and

b) at least one polycondensate of lipophilic polyamide.

LIPOPHYL POLYAMIDE POLYCONDENSE

For the purposes of the invention, the term "polycondensate" means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, that is, by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound that contains at least two repeating units, preferably at least three repeating units, and even better, ten repeating units. The term "lipophilic polymer" means any polymer that can be completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase, or that can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

The polycondensate or lipophilic polyamide polycondensates are preferably present in the compositions of the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition .

The lipophilic polyamide polycondensates can be chosen especially from polyamide polymers comprising a) a main polymer chain containing repeating units based on hydrocarbon, having at least one non-pendant amide unit, and optionally b) at least a pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain, which are optionally functionalized, which comprise at least four carbon atoms and which are attached to these hydrocarbon-based units.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "functionalized chains" means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reagents chosen especially from hydroxyl, ether, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups, halogen, including fluoro or perfluoro, and ester groups, siloxane and polysiloxane. In addition, the hydrogen atoms of one or more fatty chains can be substituted at least partially by fluorine atoms. For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based repeating units" means a unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms, which possesses atoms. of hydrogen and optionally oxygen atoms, which can be linear, branched or cyclic, and saturated or unsaturated. These units may also each comprise at least one amide group that is advantageously non-pendant, which is in the polymeric backbone.

The pendant chains are advantageously linked directly to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the polymeric main chain.

Among the hydrocarbon-based units, the lipophilic polyamide polycondensate may comprise silicone units or oxyalkylene units.

In addition, the lipophilic polyamide polycondensate of the composition of the invention advantageously comprises from 40% to 98% of fatty chains with respect to the total number of amide units and fatty chains, and even better, from 50% to 95%.

The pendant fatty chains are preferably linked to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the polymeric amide units. In particular, the fatty chains of this polyamide represent 40% to 98% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains, and even better, 50% to 95%.

Advantageously, the lipophilic polyamide polycondensate has a weight average molecular mass of less than 100,000 (especially ranging from 1,000 to 100,000), in particular less than 50,000 (especially ranging from 1000 to 50,000), and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30,000 , preferably from 2000 to 20,000, and even better from 2000 to 10,000.

The lipophilic polyamide polycondensate is insoluble in water, especially at 25 ° C. In particular, it contains non-ionic groups.

As preferred lipophilic polyamide polycondensates that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of branched polyamides with pendant fatty chains and / or terminal fatty chains containing 6 to 120 carbon atoms, and even better, 8 to 120, and in particular from 12 to 68 carbon atoms, each terminal fatty chain being linked to the polyamide main chain via at least one linking group L. The linking group L can be chosen from ester, ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester groups , thioether, thiourea and thiouretane. Preferably, these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polyamide main chain.

These polymers are preferably polymers that result from a polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid containing at least 32 carbon atoms (in particular containing from 32 to 44 carbon atoms) and an amine chosen from diamines containing at least 2 carbon atoms ( in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms) and triamines containing at least 2 carbon atoms (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms). The diacid is preferably a dimer of a fatty acid containing ethylenic unsaturation containing at least 16 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms, for example oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid. The diamine is preferably ethylenediamine, hexylenediamine or hexamethylenediamine. Triamine is, for example, ethylenetriamine. For polymers comprising one or two terminal carboxylic acid groups, it is advantageous to esterify them with a monoalcohol containing at least four carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 36 carbon atoms, even better, from 12 to 24, and even better, from 16 to 24, for example 18 carbon atoms. The lipophilic polyamide polycondensate of the composition according to the invention can be chosen in particular from the polymers of formula (A) below:

in which:

n is an integer that ranges from 1 to 30;

R'1 represents, independently in each case, a fatty chain, and is chosen from an alkyl or alkenyl group containing at least 1 carbon atom, and especially from 4 to 24 carbon atoms;

R'2 represents, independently in each case, a hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 1 to 52 carbon atoms;

R'3 represents, independently in each case, an organic group comprising at least one atom chosen from carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, with the proviso that R'3 comprises at least three carbon atoms;

R'4 represents, in each case: a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, or a direct bond to at least one group chosen from R'3 and another R'4, so that when said group is another R'4, the nitrogen atom to which both R'3 and R'4 are attached forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R 4-N-R3, with the proviso that at least 50 % of the R'4 represent a hydrogen atom, and

L represents a linking group, preferably selected from ester, ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thioether, thiourea and thiourethane, optionally substituted with at least one R'1 group as defined above.

According to one embodiment, these polymers are chosen from the polymers of formula (A) in which the linking group L represents an ester group

These polymers are more especially those described in US-A-5,783,657 of the Union Camp company.

Each of these polymers in particular satisfies the formula (B) below:

in which:

- m represents an integer number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups;

- R "1 is, independently in each case, an alkyl or alkenyl group containing at least 4 carbon atoms, and especially 4 to 24 carbon atoms;

- R’2 represents, independently in each case, a hydrocarbon-based group from C4 to C42, with the proviso that 50% of the R2 groups represent a hydrocarbon-based group from C30 to C42;

- R’3 represents, independently in each case, an organic group containing at least two carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms;

- and R "4 represents, independently in each case, a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C10 alkyl group or a direct link to R '3 or another R4, such that the nitrogen atom to which both R' is attached 3 as R "4 forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R" 4-NR "3, at least 50% of the R4 groups representing a hydrogen atom.

In the particular case of formula (B), the terminal fatty chains that are optionally functionalized for the purposes of the invention are terminal chains linked to the last nitrogen atom of the polyamide main chain.

In particular, the ester groups of formula (B), which are part of the terminal and / or pendant fatty chains within the meaning of the invention, represent 15% to 40%, and even better, 20% to 35% of the Total number of ester and amide groups.

In addition, m advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and even better, greater than 2.

Preferably, R "1 is a C12 to C22 alkyl group, and preferably C16 to C22. Advantageously, R’2 may be a C10 to C42 hydrocarbon-based (alkylene) group. Preferably, at least 50%, and even better, at least 75% of the R "2 groups are groups containing from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other R "2 groups are groups containing C4 to C19 hydrocarbons, and even better, from C4 to C12.

Preferably, R'3 represents a C2 to C36 hydrocarbon-based group, or a polyoxyalkylene group, and R4 represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R3 represents a hydrocarbon-based group of C2 to C12. The hydrocarbon-based groups can be linear, cyclic or branched, and saturated or unsaturated groups. In addition, the alkyl and alkylene groups may be linear or branched groups, and saturated or unsaturated.

In general, the polymers of formula (B) are in the form of polymer mixtures, these mixtures also possibly containing a synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (B) in which n is 0, that is, a diester.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, a mixture of copolymers of a C36 diacid condensed in ethylenediamine will be used; the terminal ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acidic terminal groups with cetyl, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (also called cetyl stearyl alcohol) (INCI name: ethylene diamine / dimeric stearyl dilinoleate copolymer). Their weight average molecular mass is preferably 6000. These mixtures are sold especially by the Arizona Chemical company under the trade names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 VG, respectively, in the form of 80% gel (of active material) in a mineral oil, and 100% (of active material). They have a softening point of 88 ° C to 94 ° C.

As polyamide polycondensates corresponding to the general formula (A), polymers comprising at least one terminal fatty chain linked to the polymeric main chain via at least one tertiary amide linking group (also referred to as "polyamide terminated in amide ”or ATPA). For more information regarding these polymers, reference can be made to US 6503522.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, a hydrogenated linoleic diacid, ethylenediamine and di-alkyl (Ci4-Ci s) -amine (s) copolymer (INCI name: BIS-DI-ALQUIL C14-C18) will be used more particularly -THE HYDROGEN DIMERIC DYLIMIC DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER). This copolymer is sold especially under the trade name Sylvaclear A200V by the Arizona Chemical company.

According to another embodiment, the polyamide of formula (A) can also be an ester terminated poly (esteramide), for example those whose preparation is described in US 6552160.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, a copolymer of hydrogenated linoleic diacid, ethylenediamine, neopentyl glycol and stearyl alcohol will be used more specifically (INCI name: COPYLIMER OF BIS-ESTEARILETILENDIAMINA / NEOPENTILGLICOL / DILINOLEATO DYMER DYNERIC) HYDROGEN). This copolymer is sold especially under the trade name Sylvaclear C75 V by the Arizona Chemical company.

As polyamide polycondensates that can be used in the invention, there may also be mentioned those comprising at least one terminal fatty chain linked to the polymer main chain via at least one ether or polyether linking group (then called poly (ether) amide finished in ether). Such polymers are described, for example, in US 6399713.

The polyamides according to the invention advantageously have a softening point greater than 65 ° C, which can be up to 190 ° C. Preferably it has a softening point that ranges from 70 ° C to 130 ° C, and even better, from 80 ° C to 105 ° C. Polyamide is in particular a non-waxy polymer.

As polyamide polycondensates that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and a diamine (including compounds containing more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 amine groups), condensing carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent individual units via an amide bond. These polyamide resins are especially products sold under the trade name Versamid® by the companies General Mills Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655), or by the company Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp. under the trade name Onamid® , in particular Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight average molecular mass ranging from 6000 to 9000. For additional information regarding these polyamides, reference can be made to US 3645705 and US 3148125. More especially Versamid is used. ® 930 or 744.

Polyamides sold by the Arizona Chemical company with the Uni-Rez references (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623 and 2662), and the product sold with the Macromelt 6212 reference can also be used. the Henkel company. For additional information regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to US 5500209.

It is also possible to use vegetable-based polyamide resins, for example those described in US patents 5783657 and US 5998570.

C1-C4 LINEAR MONOALCOHOL

The term "C1-C4 monoalcohol" means any saturated linear or branched alkane compound, containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and only a hydroxyl (OH) function.

The C1-C4 monoalcohols or alcohols, present in the compositions of the invention, can be chosen from methanol, ethanol and propanol, or mixtures thereof. Ethanol will be chosen more particularly.

In general, they are present in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Another object of the present invention is the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above, for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and / or the scalp, especially care products, sunscreen and makeup products.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used, for example, as makeup products.

Another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic procedure for caring for and / or making up a keratin material, which consists of applying, at the surface of said keratin material, at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used, for example, as care products and / or as sunscreen products for the face and / or body, of liquid or solid consistency, such as lotions, or gels more or less soft and pasta Optionally they can be packaged in aerosol form, and they can be in the form of a mus or a spray.

The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions according to the invention are applied to the skin or hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressure devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art, and comprise non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant, and aerosol pumps using compressed air as propellant. These devices are described in US Patents 4077441 and US 4850517.

Compositions packaged as an aerosol according to the invention generally comprise conventional propellants, such as, for example, hydrofluoro compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane, or trichlorofluoromethane. Preferably they are present in amounts ranging from 15% to 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

SET

According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:

i) a container that delimits one or more compartments, said container being closed by means of a closure element, and being optionally unsealed; Y

ii) a makeup and / or care composition according to the invention, placed inside said compartment or compartments.

The container may be, for example, in the form of a jar or a box.

The closure element may be in the form of a lid comprising a cap mounted so that it can be moved by translation or pivoting movement with respect to the container that houses said composition or makeup and / or care compositions.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being of a limiting nature. In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients of the compositions are given as% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Example A1: Preparation of the compound (14)

122.23 g of 3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] -2-cyclohexen-1-one were rented with dimethyl sulfate, or alternatively, with diethyl sulfate, and treated with 75.45 g of cyanoacetate of ethyl in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally of a solvent.

The following base / solvent combinations were used:

The termination of the alkylation reaction was monitored, for example, via methods such as TLC, GC or HPLC. 162.30 g of compound (14) were obtained in the form of a brown oil.

After crystallization, the product was obtained in the form of yellowish crystals. Melting point: 92.7 ° C.

Example A2: Preparation of the compound (15)

101.00 g of 3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] -2-cyclohexen-1-one were rented with dimethyl sulfate, or alternatively, with diethyl sulfate, and treated with 86.00 g of 2- cyano-N- (3-methoxypropyl) acetamide in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally a solvent.

The following base / solvent combinations were used:

The crude product (15) is obtained in the form of a dark brown oil.

After chromatography on a silica gel column (eluent: 99/1 toluene / methanol), 81.8 g of product were obtained as yellowish crystals. Melting point: 84.7-85.3 ° C.

Example A3: Preparation of the compound (27)

13.09 g of 3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] -2-cyclohexen-1-one are rented with dimethyl sulfate, or alternatively, with diethyl sulfate, and treated with 10.12 g of cyanoacetate. isobutyl in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a base and optionally of a solvent.

The following base / solvent combinations were used:

15.97 g of the crude product (27) are obtained in the form of a dark brown oil.

After chromatography on a silica gel column (eluent: toluene / acetone), 13.46 g of product are obtained in the form of yellowish crystals. Melting point: 96.3 ° C.

Example A4: Preparation of the compound (25)

148.4 g of 3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] -2-cyclohexen-1-one were rented with dimethyl sulfate, or alternatively, with diethyl sulfate, and treated with 130.00 g of cyanoacetate 2-ethoxyethyl in the presence of a base and a solvent.

The following base / solvent combinations were used:

Formulation Examples 1 to 4

Formulations 1 to 4 were prepared below, in which the chemical stability of the compound (25) of the invention was evaluated. The amounts are expressed in% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. Formulation 3 was constructed so that the weight ratio of each ingredient was identical to the weight ratio of each ingredient in the fatty phase of formulation 4.

Method for preparing formulations 1 and 3 (oil):

The oily formulations of the invention were prepared as follows. Phase A was heated to 80 ° C with stirring. Once this phase was transparent, the alcohol (phase D) was added at room temperature with continued stirring using a magnetic stirrer for a time between 10 minutes and 1 hour.

Method for preparing formulations 2 and 4 (emulsion):

The oil phase A and the water phase B were prepared by mixing the starting materials with mechanical stirring a 80 ° C Once the oil solution A and the aqueous solution B were macroscopically homogeneous, the emulsion was prepared outside the invention by introducing phase A into phase B, which were stirred using a rotor-stator type homogenizer (mixer in the case of the invention). Stirring was maintained for 10 to 20 minutes before adding phase C, with continuous stirring. The emulsion was cooled to room temperature before adding the ingredients of phase D.

Protocol to assess the stability of merocyanine:

The stability of the merocyanins in the formulation was evaluated by UPLC assay of the residual merocyanine content after 2 months of storage of the formulations at 4 ° and 45 ° C.

The percentage of degradation of merocyanins after 2 months at 45 ° C is expressed as:

The degradation percentage of merocyanins after 1 month at 45 ° C is expressed as:

The theoretical content corresponds to the initial content entered.

The stability results obtained in formulations 1 and 3 according to the invention, in comparison with formulations 2 and 4, show that the merocyanines of the invention, formulated in anhydrous compositions of the invention, are chemically more stable than when formulated in a support comprising an emulsifying system containing at least one alkali metal salt of a phosphoric acid ester of a fatty alcohol.

Claims (10)

1. An anhydrous cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable support: a) at least one merocyanine compound corresponding to the following formula (3), and also its forms of geometric isomers E / E or E / Z;

in which: A is -O-or -NH; R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22 cycloalkyl group, or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, said groups being possible to be interrupted with one or more O, and b) at least one oil phase comprising at least one oil selected from oils based on hydrocarbons, silicone oils, and fluoroaceites, and mixtures thereof. 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the merocyanines of formula (3) are chosen from the following compounds, and also their forms of geometric isomers E / E or E / Z:

3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the merocyanine of formula (3) is the compound (2Z) -cyano {3 - [(3-methoxypropyl) amino] cidohex-2-en-1-ylidene} ethanoate of 2 -ethoxyethyl (25) in its geometric E / Z configuration that has the following structure:

and / or the E / E form that has the following structure:

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which also comprises at least one water insoluble UV radiation filter agent. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the overall oil phase represents from 2% to 100% by weight, and preferably from 10% to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is transparent, and has a turbidity at 25 ° C of less than 1000 NTU, preferably less than 50 NTU, and even more preferably, less than 15 NTU. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a fluid composition, and also comprises: a) at least one linear C1-C4 monoalkanol, and b) at least one polycondensate of lipophilic polyamide. 8. Composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7, for use in a method of caring for and / or making up a keratin material, comprising the application to the surface of said keratin material. 9. Composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7, for use in a non-therapeutic cosmetic procedure to limit the darkening of the skin and / or improve the color and / or uniformity of the complexion, which comprises the application to the surface of the skin. 10. Composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7, for use in a method of preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material, which comprises application to the surface of the keratin material.