ES2328780A1 - Jewellery-setting method and resulting jewellery item - Google Patents

Jewellery-setting method and resulting jewellery item Download PDF

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Publication number
ES2328780A1
ES2328780A1 ES200803350A ES200803350A ES2328780A1 ES 2328780 A1 ES2328780 A1 ES 2328780A1 ES 200803350 A ES200803350 A ES 200803350A ES 200803350 A ES200803350 A ES 200803350A ES 2328780 A1 ES2328780 A1 ES 2328780A1
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Spain
Prior art keywords
stones
stone
jewel
metal
setting method
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Granted
Application number
ES200803350A
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Spanish (es)
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ES2328780B2 (en
Inventor
Rafael Gomez Serrano
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Rafael Gomez Sanchez S A
RAFAEL GOMEZ SANCHEZ SA
Original Assignee
Rafael Gomez Sanchez S A
RAFAEL GOMEZ SANCHEZ SA
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Application filed by Rafael Gomez Sanchez S A, RAFAEL GOMEZ SANCHEZ SA filed Critical Rafael Gomez Sanchez S A
Priority to ES200803350A priority Critical patent/ES2328780B2/en
Publication of ES2328780A1 publication Critical patent/ES2328780A1/en
Priority to PCT/ES2009/070525 priority patent/WO2010061027A1/en
Priority to EP09828672.7A priority patent/EP2389827A4/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of ES2328780B2 publication Critical patent/ES2328780B2/en
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments

Abstract

The invention relates to a setting method for setting jewelry made from metal and stones set in a seat (12) existing or made in the base metal (1) by means of wires (3) of the same material as the jewelry (1), such wires welded above and along the sides of the slot in which the stone is set so that it is held firmly and imperceptibly. The jewelry obtained by this method has an inner frame in the slot (12) in which the stone is set, formed by a metal wire (2) welded along all or part of the periphery of said slot (12).

Description

Procedimiento de engaste de joyas y joya obtenida con dicho procedimiento.Jewelery and jewel setting procedure obtained with said procedure.

Objeto de la invenciónObject of the invention

Como su propio título indica, la presente invención se refiere a un procedimiento para engastar joyas, es decir fijar la piedra en un hueco o cajeado existente en el metal de que está hecha la pieza, que presenta interiormente la forma y las dimensiones aproximadas a las piedras a recibir en él y una superficie periférica de apoyo en la que asientan las piedras depositadas en los referidos alojamientos, en posición de montaje definitivo.As its own title indicates, this invention refers to a procedure for setting jewelry, is say fix the stone in a hole or recessed existing in the metal what the piece is made of, which presents the shape inside and the approximate dimensions to the stones to receive in it and a peripheral support surface on which the stones settle deposited in said housings, in mounting position definitive.

Se trata de un procedimiento que se desarrolla por medios industriales, no artesanales, por lo que cabe su protección legal por esta vía, al tiempo que aporta ventajas sustanciales en cuanto a mejora de tiempos y mano de obra en el desarrollo de este trabajo, con la consiguiente ventaja económica de este proceso con respecto a los métodos tradicionales.It is a procedure that develops by industrial means, not artisanal, so it fits your legal protection in this way, while providing advantages substantial in terms of improved time and labor in the development of this work, with the consequent economic advantage of this process with respect to traditional methods.

Antecedentes de la invenciónBackground of the invention

Actualmente existen varios métodos de engaste de joyas, ya se trate de fijar la piedra en un chatón, bocel o un carril. Los chatotes y boceles son círculos huecos de metal cerrados por sus caras; los chatotes son más pequeños que los boceles. Por su parte los carriles son huecos alargados, continuos o discontinuos, en los que las piedras entran con bastante precisión quedando anexas o separadas por una lámina intermedia de metal.There are currently several methods of crimping  jewels, whether it is to fix the stone in a chaton, bocel or a rail. Chatotes and mouths are hollow metal circles closed by their faces; the chatotes are smaller than the boceles On the other hand the rails are elongated, continuous gaps or discontinuous, in which the stones enter with enough precision being attached or separated by an intermediate sheet of metal.

Para la fijación de una piedra en bocel o chatón se recurre efectuar una ranura en la parte interior del hueco mediante una fresa o buril, paralelo a su borde exterior. La piedra se engasta en el dicho hueco a presión o deformando ligeramente la superficie superior de la ranura efectuada para reducir levemente el diámetro interior del hueco para que la piedra quede atrapada en él, mediante cincelado, acucharado, o también realizando granos o picos de estrella en el la cara superior del metal, mediante un buril u otra herramienta adecuada.For fixing a stone in a jail or chaton  it is necessary to make a groove inside the hole by a strawberry or buril, parallel to its outer edge. The stone it is set in the said hollow under pressure or slightly deforming the upper groove surface made to reduce slightly the inside diameter of the hole so that the stone is trapped in he, by chiseled, stabbed, or also making grains or Star peaks on the upper face of the metal, using a buril or other suitable tool.

La fijación de piedras en un carril se puede efectuar también prensando los laterales del carril, o apretando un costado mientras se golpea en el opuesto hasta que queden sujetas. También se suele emplear un método de engaste denominado aseado, consistente en frotar la pieza con un buril, haciendo finos cortes y sacando brillo con la herramienta para conseguir formar una superficie de metal que quede por encima de la piedra en la periferia que la retenerla en posición definitiva.The fixing of stones in a rail can be also by pressing the sides of the rail, or by pressing a cost while hitting on the opposite until they are subject. A crimping method called neat is also commonly used, consisting of rubbing the piece with a buril, making fine cuts and getting shine with the tool to get a metal surface that is above the stone in the periphery that retain it in a definitive position.

En la literatura de patentes también existen referencias a procedimientos de estas características:In the patent literature there are also References to procedures of these characteristics:

En el documento FR-2476459 se describe un procedimiento industrial para fabricar joyas, hoy en día convencional, que comprende las siguientes operaciones: primera, se fabrica la base de la joya a partir del material precioso, por ejemplo, un anillo; segunda, se realiza en dicha base un taladro cilíndrico de dimensiones adecuadas, mediante una broca de taladrar; tercera, mediante un escariador de descentramiento se realiza en el contorno de dicho taladro cilíndrico una garganta de preengaste, cuyas dimensiones han de estar adaptadas a las de la piedra, y por ultimo, se coloca la piedra en la garganta del preengaste y se sujeta mediante enclavamiento.In document FR-2476459, describes an industrial procedure for making jewelry, today in Conventional day, which includes the following operations: First, the jewel base is made from the material precious, for example, a ring; second, it is done on that base a cylindrical drill of suitable dimensions, by means of a drill to drill; third, by means of a decentralizer reamer in the contour of said cylindrical bore a throat of preengaste, whose dimensions must be adapted to those of the stone, and finally, the stone is placed in the throat of the pre-crimped and fastened by interlocking.

El documento ES-U0205316 describe un engaste que dispone una barra de base, en la que se han practicado una pluralidad de orificios contiguos de embocaduras cónicas, y a todo lo largo de un lateral de su superficie superior, recibe solidariamente un hilo de sección adecuada, en cuyo lado interior se le ha practicado una ranura angular y longitudinal, de manera que las piedras se encajan en aquellos orificios, al tiempo que sus aristas o vértices laterales se introducen en el ranurado angular completándose la sujeción mediante la disposición axial, en el lateral opuesto de la barra, de una pluralidad de hilos garras verticales, que son abatidos y apretados sobre las piedras, asegurando su montaje y realzándolo por el hecho de que las barras de base pueden adoptar cualquier trazado o dibujo necesario.The document ES-U0205316 describes a setting that has a base bar, in which they have  practiced a plurality of contiguous holes of openings conical, and all along one side of its upper surface, jointly receives a thread of suitable section, on whose side interior has been made an angular and longitudinal groove, of so that the stones fit into those holes, at the same time that its edges or lateral vertices are introduced in the grooving angular, the fastener being completed by the axial arrangement, on the opposite side of the bar, of a plurality of threads vertical claws, which are knocked down and tightened on the stones, ensuring its assembly and enhancing it by the fact that the bars Basis can adopt any necessary layout or drawing.

El documento W9815202 se describe un procedimiento de engarce de piedras en la superficie de una joya realizada por electroformación, en el que se realiza una base que presenta exteriormente las formas y dimensiones con un espesor cercano al de la capa de oro que forma la pared de la joya que hay que obtener y dotada de alojamientos de recepción de las piedras, se deposita en la base antes de la colocación de la piedras, una capa protectora, y a continuación una fina capa de oro, se colocan las piedras en dichos alojamientos, se deposita una segunda capa de oro, mas espesa, y finalmente se extrae o se retira dicha base y dicha capa protectora.Document W9815202 describes a procedure of crimping stones on the surface of a jewel carried out by electroforming, in which a base is made that externally presents the shapes and dimensions with a thickness close to the layer of gold that forms the wall of the jewel to obtain and equipped with accommodation for receiving the stones, it is deposited in the base before the placement of the stones, a protective layer, and then a thin layer of gold, are placed the stones in said housings, a second layer of gold, thicker, and finally the base is removed or removed and said protective layer.

Descripción de la invenciónDescription of the invention

El procedimiento de engaste de joyas de la invención prevé el engaste las piedras mediante hilos o finas láminas metálicas del mismo material que la joya, que se sueldan por los laterales del cajeado en el que se engasta la piedra y por encima de ésta para que quede firmemente sujeta y de forma imperceptible.The jewelry setting procedure of the invention provides for the setting of the stones by means of threads or fine metal sheets of the same material as the jewel, which are welded by the sides of the recess in which the stone is set and by on top of it so that it is firmly held and shaped imperceptible.

Estos hilos de sujeción de la piedra opcionalmente se sueldan todo a lo largo y ancho o de forma interrumpida en puntos concretos, también se pueden soldar en las esquinas del cajeado o hueco en el que se inserta la piedra. Cuando se trata de una composición en un carril, también se pueden soldar entre dos piedras anexas de lado a lado del hueco, conformando en este caso un elemento separador entre las piedras colocadas en dicho carril.These stone clamping threads optionally they are welded all the length and width or shape interrupted at specific points, they can also be welded at corners of the recess or hole in which the stone is inserted. When It is a composition in a rail, can also be welded between two attached stones from side to side of the hole, forming in this case a separating element between the stones placed in said lane

Preferentemente la soldadura se efectúa por rayo láser, ya que se trata de un proceso de soldadura por fusión que, al utilizar la energía aportada por un haz láser para fundir y recristalizar el material o los materiales a unir, no requiere aporte externo de material, más que el fundido, con lo cual se obtiene un acabado muy fino y homogéneo.Preferably welding is carried out by lightning  laser, since it is a fusion welding process that, by using the energy provided by a laser beam to melt and recrystallize the material or materials to be joined, does not require external contribution of material, more than molten, which gets a very fine and homogeneous finish.

Descripción de las figurasDescription of the figures

Para complementar la descripción que se está realizando y con objeto de facilitar la comprensión de las características de la invención, se acompaña a la presente memoria descriptiva un juego de dibujos en los que, con carácter ilustrativo y no limitativo, se ha representado lo siguiente:To complement the description that is being performing and in order to facilitate the understanding of characteristics of the invention, is attached herein descriptive a set of drawings in which, with character Illustrative and not limiting, the following has been represented:

La figura 1 muestra una vista en perspectiva de una joya fabricada con el procedimiento de la invención.Figure 1 shows a perspective view of a jewel made with the process of the invention.

Realización preferente de la invenciónPreferred Embodiment of the Invention

Como se puede observar en la figura referenciada la joya realizada mediante este novedoso procedimiento de engaste está hecha de metales preciosos (1) y piedras (2) engastadas en un alojamiento (12) existente o practicado en el metal base (1), que presenta interiormente la forma y las dimensiones aproximadas a las piedras a recibir en él y una superficie periférica (11) en la que apoyan y asientan las piedras depositadas en los referidos alojamientos en posición de montaje definitivo.As can be seen in the referenced figure  the jewel made by this novel crimping procedure It is made of precious metals (1) and stones (2) set in a accommodation (12) existing or practiced in the base metal (1), which internally presents the approximate shape and dimensions of the stones to receive in it and a peripheral surface (11) in which support and settle the stones deposited in those referred housings in final mounting position.

Según una característica esencial de la invención los laterales de dicho cajeado (12) están enmarcados por un hilo o lámina metálica (2), que se ha soldado por toda o parte de la periferia de dicho cajeado (12) y que constituye el medio mecánico de retención de la piedra o piedras (2), que quedan así engastadas en el metal (1) de la joya.According to an essential characteristic of the invention the sides of said pocket (12) are framed by a wire or sheet metal (2), which has been welded all or part of the periphery of said pocket (12) and that constitutes the means mechanical retention of the stone or stones (2), which remain so set in the metal (1) of the jewel.

Una vez descrita suficientemente la naturaleza de la invención, así como un ejemplo de realización preferente, se hace constar a los efectos oportunos que los materiales, forma, tamaño y disposición de los elementos descritos podrán ser modificados, siempre y cuando ello no suponga una alteración de las características esenciales de la invención que se reivindican a continuación.Once nature is sufficiently described of the invention, as well as a preferred embodiment, for the appropriate purposes that the materials, form, size and arrangement of the elements described may be modified, as long as this does not involve an alteration of the essential features of the invention claimed in continuation.

Claims (4)

1. Procedimiento de engaste de joyas, hechas de metales preciosos y piedras engastadas en un alojamiento existente o practicado en el metal base (1), que presenta interiormente la forma y las dimensiones aproximadas a las piedras a recibir en él y una superficie periférica (11) de apoyo en la que asientan las piedras depositadas en los referidos alojamientos, en posición de montaje definitivo, caracterizado porque la fijación de las piedras (2) se realiza soldando hilos (3) o finas láminas metálicas del mismo material que la joya (1), por los laterales del cajeado en el que se engasta la piedra y por encima de ésta para que quede firmemente sujeta y de forma imperceptible.1. Procedure for setting jewels, made of precious metals and stones set in an existing housing or practiced in the base metal (1), which internally presents the approximate shape and dimensions of the stones to be received therein and a peripheral surface ( 11) of support in which the stones deposited in the aforementioned housings settle, in a definitive assembly position, characterized in that the fixing of the stones (2) is done by welding wires (3) or fine metal sheets of the same material as the jewel ( 1), by the sides of the recess in which the stone is set and above it so that it is firmly held and imperceptibly. 2. Procedimiento de engaste de joya, según la reivindicación 1, caracterizado porque los hilos (3) que retienen la piedra (2) se sueldan en las esquinas del cajeado o hueco (12) en el que se inserta la piedra(2).2. Jewel setting method according to claim 1, characterized in that the threads (3) that retain the stone (2) are welded in the corners of the recess or hollow (12) in which the stone (2) is inserted. 3. Procedimiento de engaste de joya, según la reivindicación 1, caracterizado porque los hilos (3) que retienen las piedras (2) en una composición en un carril, también se sueldan entre dos piedras anexas de lado a lado del hueco (12), conformando un elemento separador entre las piedras colocadas en él.3. Jewel setting method according to claim 1, characterized in that the threads (3) that retain the stones (2) in a composition in a rail, are also welded between two attached stones from side to side of the hole (12) , forming a separating element between the stones placed in it. 4. Joya, hecha de metal y piedras engastadas en un alojamiento existente o practicado en el metal base (1), que presenta interiormente la forma y las dimensiones aproximadas a las piedras a recibir en él y una superficie periférica (11) de apoyo en la que asientan las piedras depositadas en los referidos alojamientos en posición de montaje definitivo, caracterizada porque los laterales de dicho cajeado (12) están enmarcados por un hilo o lámina metálica (2), unido mediante soldadura por toda o parte de la periferia de dicho cajeado (12) que apoya y retiene la piedra o piedras (2) engastándola en el metal (1) de la joya.4. Jewel, made of metal and stones set in an existing housing or practiced in the base metal (1), which internally presents the approximate shape and dimensions of the stones to receive in it and a peripheral surface (11) supporting the one that settles the stones deposited in the aforementioned housings in the definitive mounting position, characterized in that the sides of said recess (12) are framed by a wire or sheet metal (2), joined by welding through all or part of the periphery of said cajeado (12) that supports and retains the stone or stones (2) by greasing it in the metal (1) of the jewel.
ES200803350A 2008-11-25 2008-11-25 PROCEDURE FOR JEWELRY AND JEWELRY SETTING OBTAINED WITH SUCH PROCEDURE. Expired - Fee Related ES2328780B2 (en)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ES200803350A ES2328780B2 (en) 2008-11-25 2008-11-25 PROCEDURE FOR JEWELRY AND JEWELRY SETTING OBTAINED WITH SUCH PROCEDURE.
PCT/ES2009/070525 WO2010061027A1 (en) 2008-11-25 2009-11-24 Jewellery-setting method and resulting jewellery item
EP09828672.7A EP2389827A4 (en) 2008-11-25 2009-11-24 Jewellery-setting method and resulting jewellery item

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ES200803350A ES2328780B2 (en) 2008-11-25 2008-11-25 PROCEDURE FOR JEWELRY AND JEWELRY SETTING OBTAINED WITH SUCH PROCEDURE.

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
ES2328780A1 true ES2328780A1 (en) 2009-11-17
ES2328780B2 ES2328780B2 (en) 2010-06-01

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ES200803350A Expired - Fee Related ES2328780B2 (en) 2008-11-25 2008-11-25 PROCEDURE FOR JEWELRY AND JEWELRY SETTING OBTAINED WITH SUCH PROCEDURE.

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EP (1) EP2389827A4 (en)
ES (1) ES2328780B2 (en)
WO (1) WO2010061027A1 (en)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102008160A (en) * 2010-06-18 2011-04-13 林惠锋 Diamond combination
WO2017092760A1 (en) * 2015-12-03 2017-06-08 Pandora A/S A method for manufacture of a piece of jewellery and a piece of jewellery
IT201900024766A1 (en) * 2019-12-19 2021-06-19 Desire S R L Jewelery and assembly process of baguette-cut stones for the realization of the same

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1218540A (en) * 1968-09-19 1971-01-06 Achim Schilling Gem settings
ES205316U (en) * 1974-08-14 1976-02-01 Marco Roca Ernesto Perfected jewelry for jewels. (Machine-translation by Google Translate, not legally binding)
FR2488496A1 (en) * 1980-08-12 1982-02-19 Chirol Francis Mounting for gemstones in piece of jewelry - has stones held by stirrups brazed in holes in mount
ES2006443B3 (en) * 1987-01-19 1990-05-01 Cartier Int B V PREPARATION PROCEDURE FOR PRECIOUS STONES AS WELL AS JEWELS OBTAINED BY THIS PROCEDURE.

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4292818A (en) * 1979-09-17 1981-10-06 Jean Vitau Setting and method for mounting precious stones and the like therein
FR2476459A1 (en) 1980-02-25 1981-08-28 Diamant Applic INDUSTRIAL PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING JEWELRY, IN PARTICULAR RINGS, PREFERABLY IN PRECIOUS METAL, COMPRISING STAINED STONES
FR2754152B1 (en) 1996-10-09 1998-12-24 Pgcm Conception PROCESS FOR EMBEDDING STONES IN THE SURFACE OF A JEWEL MADE BY ELECTROFORMING AND JEWEL THUS OBTAINED
US6851278B2 (en) * 2003-05-07 2005-02-08 Jerry Keenan Gemstone encased in ring

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1218540A (en) * 1968-09-19 1971-01-06 Achim Schilling Gem settings
ES205316U (en) * 1974-08-14 1976-02-01 Marco Roca Ernesto Perfected jewelry for jewels. (Machine-translation by Google Translate, not legally binding)
FR2488496A1 (en) * 1980-08-12 1982-02-19 Chirol Francis Mounting for gemstones in piece of jewelry - has stones held by stirrups brazed in holes in mount
ES2006443B3 (en) * 1987-01-19 1990-05-01 Cartier Int B V PREPARATION PROCEDURE FOR PRECIOUS STONES AS WELL AS JEWELS OBTAINED BY THIS PROCEDURE.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP2389827A1 (en) 2011-11-30
EP2389827A4 (en) 2015-03-18
WO2010061027A1 (en) 2010-06-03
ES2328780B2 (en) 2010-06-01

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