EP4731174A1 - Cosmetic composition based on chitosan and at least one crystallizable fatty compound - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for making-up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Dalton, and b) at least one crystallizable fat. It also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages, wherein the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages.

Description

Cosmetic composition based on chitosan and at least one crystallizable fatty compound

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for making-up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Dalton, and b) at least one crystallizable fat.

The present invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages, wherein the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages.

There are many cosmetic compositions for which resistance properties of the deposited film, after application to keratin materials, are desired. Examples include lipsticks, foundations, mascaras or nail varnishes. In order to obtain such a result, particular raw materials, in particular film-forming agents, can be combined. Moreover, it is often sought to obtain compositions with good covering power.

There is a need for such systems to obtain compositions that are easy to formulate, preferably fluid, based on chitosan, having good sensory properties on application, the deposit of which has good optical properties, for example, covering power, mattness and having a good resistance and with an enhanced resistance, for example, to dry mechanical wear, oil, or water.

There is in particular a need for systems for obtaining compositions based on chitosan in the form of emulsions, or even an aqueous gel, and having an enhanced resistance, in particular to water.

Moreover, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.

It has therefore become essential to propose more sustainable compositions and/or preparation processes and/or ingredients to meet these environmental challenges.

In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and/or those with a good wilderness quality index and/or of natural origin, and more particularly those of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin. These problems may be solved by using cosmetic compositions described hereinafter, these compositions having a good formulability, good cosmetic properties, in particular a good resistance of the make-up properties, such as the covering power or mattness, with dry rubbing, to water, oils and/or sebum, as well as good sensory properties. The aim of the present invention is in particular that of providing emulsions comprising chitosan and having a good dry, water and/or oil resistance.

After application, these compositions leave an optionally covering and homogeneous film-forming deposit, which has a good resistance to wear. The films formed are adhesive and cohesive, and have an enhanced dry, water and/or oil resistance.

These compositions further include sustainable ingredients, helping to meet environmental challenges.

The present invention thus relates to a composition, in particular for making-up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Dalton, and b) at least one crystallizable fat.

Indeed, the inventors surprisingly discovered that adding a crystallizable fat in a composition, preferably in an emulsion or an aqueous gel, comprising chitosan, makes it possible to enhance the dry, water and/or oil resistance of said composition. It was also observed that these two ingredients act synergistically to obtain a homogeneous composition and a pleasant texture at application, the viscosity of which is controlled.

"Physiologically acceptable" means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, with respect to the total weight of the composition, 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, of silicone.

Silicone means any silicone compound.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free from silicone different from a film-forming or tacky silicone polymer, preferably different from a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably different from an MQ resin or an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer. "Substantially free from silicone different from a film-forming or tacky silicone polymer, preferably different from a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably different from an MQ resin or an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer" means that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone different from a film-forming or tacky silicone polymer, preferably different from a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably different from an MQ resin or an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer. Preferably, the composition is totally free from silicone different from a filmforming or tacky silicone polymer, preferably from a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably different from an MQ resin or an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy- methacrylate copolymer. Silicone different from a film-forming or tacky silicone polymer, preferably different from a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably different from an MQ resin or an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer means any silicone compound which is not a film-forming or tacky silicone polymer, preferably which is not a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably which is not an MQ resin or an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.

"Resin" means a compound with a three-dimensional structure. As such, in terms of this invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

The classification of silicone resins is known under the name "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the various siloxane monomeric units comprised therein, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter "M" represents the Monofunctional unit having the formula R1 R2R3SiOi/2, the silicon atom being bound to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter "D" denotes a Difunctional unit R1 R2SiO2/2 wherein the silicon atom is bound to two oxygen atoms.

The letter "T" represents a Trifunctional unit having the formula R1 SiOs/2.

In the M, D, T structural units defined above, Ri, namely R1 , R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter "Q" denotes a Tetrafunctional unit SiO4/2 wherein the silicon atom is bound to four oxygen atoms in turn bound to the remainder of the polymer.

Such resins are described for example in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851 , US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484. MQ type silicone resins are for example alkylsiloxysilicates having formula [(R1 )sSiOi/2]x(SiO4/2)y (MQ units) wherein x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the R1 group is a radical as defined hereinabove, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably, a methyl group. A differentiation is made in particular of trimethylsiloxysilicate or phenylalkylesiloxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate.

Silicone polymers include siloxanes having an organo function group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl radical is different from methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26- 28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having an organo function radical such as an aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Amodimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having a polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 25,25-Dimethicone or Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl ether Dimethicone.

Silicon acrylate copolymers are polymers comprising a siloxane group and a hydrocarbon group. For example, suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon backbone such as, for example, a backbone chosen from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers and/or acrylic polymers and at least one chain chosen from pendant siloxane groups and polymers comprising a siloxane group backbone and at least one pendant hydrocarbon chain such as, for example, a pendant vinyl, methacrylic and/or acrylic group.

The silicone acrylate copolymer may be selected from polymers derived from nonpolar silicone copolymers comprising repeating units of at least one polar (meth)acrylate unit and vinyl copolymers grafted with at least one non-polar silicone chain. Non-limiting examples of such copolymers are acrylate/dimethicone copolymers such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, for example, the products sold under the brand names KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer), KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate/dimethicone copolymer), KP-561 (acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer), KP-562 (acrylates/behenyl acrylate/dimethicone acrylates copolymer), and mixtures thereof. Additional examples include the acrylate/dimethicone copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the brand names FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer), and FA 4004 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer), and mixtures thereof.

According to an embodiment, the composition according to the invention is substantially free from silicone. "Substantially free from silicone" means that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone. Preferably, the composition is totally free from silicone. According to this embodiment, silicone means any silicone compound, including film-forming or tacky silicone polymers.

The composition is presented preferably in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil- in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or a water-in-oil emulsion (invert emulsion).

According to an embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, having in particular an oily phase/aqueous phase weight ratio between 5:95 and 80:20, preferably between 8:92 and 65:35, preferably between 10:90 and 60:40, preferably between 12:88 and 50:50, preferably between 15:85 and 40:60.

According to an embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, having in particular an oily phase/aqueous phase weight ratio between 90:10 and 20:80, preferably between 80:20 and 30:70, preferably between 70:30 and 40:60, preferably between 65:35 and 45:55.

The composition according to the invention may also be presented in the form of an aqueous dispersion or an aqueous gel.

It also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages, wherein the composition according to one of the preceding claims is applied to the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages.

Chitosan

The composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of at least one native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Dalton (3 kDa). The quantity of native chitosan is also strictly less than 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the native chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, and preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa. Preferably, the native chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, and preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

One Dalton is equivalent to 1 g/mol.

Chitosan is not widely found in nature. It has only been reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects, such as termite queens, and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, namely zygomycetes.

Chitosan is obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units interlinked by a p-(1 ,4) type bond.

The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of p-D-glucosamine monomers linked by a glycoside (1^4) bond.

According to the invention, "chitosan" means any copolymer made up of N-acetyl-D- glucosamine and D-glucosamine constituent units, the degree of acetylation whereof is less than 90%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl- D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) interlinked by p (1 ,4) type bonds and represents a polymer of the poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type.

Preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70%, preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, and preferably less than or equal to 15%.

The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units with respect to the total number of units, and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or titration with a strong base.

The chitosan according to the invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. It is in particular extracted and purified from safe and plentiful food-grade or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

The chitosan according to the invention is preferably obtained from the mycelium of an Ascomycetes type fungus, and in particular of Aspergillus niger and/or a Basidiomycetes fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and/or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

The chitosan may be of GMO origin, but preferably is of non-GMO origin.

The chitosan according to the invention is native, i.e. it is not modified. In particular, it has not undergone any chemical modification.

One method for preparing chitosan is described in the international patent application WO03068824.

Preferably, the chitosan used in the invention is in powder form. It is in particular marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime.

The chitosan is preferably present in a quantity ranging from 0.01 % to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5%, preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight, or more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Crvstallizable fat

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one crystallizable fat. "Fa means an organic compound insoluble in water at regular ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably 1% and even more preferably 0.1 %). They have in the structure thereof at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. The crystallizable fat(s) according to the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, more preferably of plant or insect animal origin. They are different from fatty acids as salified fatty acids form soaps generally soluble in aqueous medium.

Crystallizable fat means for the purposes the present invention a lipophilic compound which is solid, deformable, or non-deformable, at ambient temperature (25°C) and having a melting point greater than or equal to 25°C, preferably between 25°C and 200°C, preferably between 35°C and 150°C, preferably between 45°C and 130°C, preferably between 55°C and 120°C.

Some crystallizable fats are commonly referred to as waxes.

Wax(es) According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more waxes.

"Wax" means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure, having a reversible solid/liquid change of state and a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C that can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C. In particular, the wax(es) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and particularly greater than or equal to 55°C. In particular, the wax(es) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and particularly greater than or equal to 55°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting point is the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC), as described in ISO standard 11357-3:1999. The melting point of the crystallizable fat may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. Such a measurement method is for example described in the document PCT/EP2013/062964.

Among the crystallizable fats of mineral origin, mention may be made of: paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin and microcrystalline wax.

Among the crystallizable fats of plant origin, mention may be made of: carnauba wax, candelilla wax such as that sold under the reference SP 75 G by Strahl & Pitsch, bay leaf wax, sugar cane wax, ceramide, alfa wax, olive tree wax, rice wax such as that sold under the reference NC 1720 by Cera Rica Noda, sunflower (seed) wax such as that sold by Koster Keunen under the reference sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated cotton oil, Polyglyceryl-3 esters of green mimosa, jojoba and sunflower waxes, and absolute flower waxes such as essential blackcurrant flower wax, soy wax, myrica fruit wax.

Other crystallizable fats of plant origin may be mentioned, such as: Caranday wax, Raphia wax, Colombian wax, Alfa wax, Alfalfa wax, Bamboo wax, Hemp wax, Douglas wax, Cork wax, Sisal wax, Linseed wax, Cotton wax, Dammar wax, Cereal wax, Tea wax, Coffee wax, Ocatilla wax, Palm waxes, Myrica wax, bayberry wax, ucuhuba wax, Borneo wax, Malabar wax, illipe wax and Japan tallow or Japan wax.

Among the crystallizable fats of animal origin, mention may be made of: beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin and spermaceti.

The crystallizable fat(s) may also be chosen from long-chain crystallizable alcohols and mixtures thereof, such as for example cetearyl alcohol (C16/C1850/50), stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, C26-C22 alcohols. The crystallizable fat(s) may also be chosen from long-chain crystallizable esters and mixtures thereof, such as the INCI compound "CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS MIXTURE OF MYRISTYL STEARATE AND MYRISTYL PALMITATE", or the INCI compound "MIXTURE OF MYRISTYL STEARATE AND MYRISTYL PALMITATE", glycol distearate, glycol stearate, cetyl palmitate such as the commercial product ERCAWAX CP V/0 from the supplier ERCA, isopropyl palmitate, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, long-chain crystallizable esters of glycerol and mixtures thereof, such as for example the compound sold under the trade name COMPRITOL 888 CG ATO by Gattefosse (INCI: GLYCERYL DIBEHENATE (and) TRIBEHENIN (and) GLYCERYL BEHENATE) or each of its components taken separately, the triester of glycerol and behenic acid (INCI: TRIBEHENIN), the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid (INCI: TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN), tricaprin, trilaurin, trimyristin, tripalmitin, tristearin, glycerol distearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl dipalmitostearate and linoleoyl polyoxyl-6 glyceride. The crystallizable fat(s) chosen from long-chain crystallizable esters and mixtures thereof are preferably chosen from esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acid optionally substituted by a hydroxy group.

The crystallizable fat(s) may also be chosen from alkyl long-chain crystallizable fatty acids and mixtures thereof, such as for example the INCI compound "STEARIC ACID", mixtures of stearic acid and palmitic acid, in particular from C4-C28 saturated fatty acids and C4-C28 unsaturated fatty acids.

The other crystallizable fats which may be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general, such as a- olefin oligomers, for example the polymers Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 sold by New Phase Technologies, ethylene/propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, or Fischer-Tropsch waxes or a mixture of these products.

Preferably, the crystallizable fat is chosen from crystallizable fats of animal or plant origin, esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids optionally substituted by a hydroxy group and copolymers of sorbitol and C6-C16 fatty diacid esterified with C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from the triester of glycerol and behenic acid, the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid and copolymers of sorbitol and sebacic acid esterified with behenic acid, preferably chosen from the triester of glycerol and behenic acid, the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, and sunflower wax. Preferably, the crystallizable fat is present at a concentration between 0.01% and 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 % and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 12% by weight, preferably between 1 % and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 8% by weight, advantageously between 1 .5% and 7% by weight.

According to an embodiment, the weight ratio between chitosan and the crystallizable fat is between 0.00025 and 300, preferably between 0.001 and 100, preferably between 0.01 and 30, preferably between 0.05 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 4, preferably between 0.1 and 2, preferably between 0.5 and 2, advantageously between 0.5 and 1 .

According to an embodiment, the weight ratio between chitosan and the crystallizable fat is greater than or equal to 0.1 , preferably greater than or equal to 0.2, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8, preferably greater than or equal to 1 , preferably greater than or equal to 1 .5, preferably greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 10.

According to another embodiment, the weight ratio between the crystallizable fat and chitosan is greater than or equal to 0.1 , preferably greater than or equal to 0.2, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8, preferably greater than or equal to 1 , preferably greater than or equal to 1 .5, preferably greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 10.

Pigmentary coloring materials

The composition according to the invention can further comprise at least one pigmentary coloring material. This pigmentary coloring material is chosen from pulverulent coloring materials, such as mineral pigments, nacres and organic pigments.

"Pigments" means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended for coloring the composition and/or the resulting deposit.

Preferably, the pigmentary coloring material is chosen from mineral pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof; preferably the pigmentary coloring material is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the pigmentary coloring material is present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 8 to 18% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Mineral pigments

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

"Mineral pigment" means any pigment that complies with the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the Inorganic Pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, along with zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is in general greater than 5 nm, preferably greater than 10 nm, preferably greater than 20 nm, preferably greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 pm, preferably from 5 nm to 10pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm. The sizes are measured by measured by static light scattering by means of a commercial MasterSizer 3000® granulometer from Malvern, making it possible to apprehend the granulometric distribution of all the particles over a wide range that can range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the classic Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most adapted for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, and makes it possible to determine an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is described particularly in the book by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D[50] represents the maximum size of 50% by volume of the particles.

In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention can be made more particularly of titanium dioxide and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate for example marketed under the reference NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.

As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, nacres may also be mentioned. The term "nacres" should be understood to mean iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, which are in particular produced by certain mollusks in their shell or else are synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres may be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also consist of mica particles at the surface whereof are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyes. By way of example of nacres, mention may also be made of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® (based on mica) nacres marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON® nacres marketed by MERCK, PRESTIGE® mica-based nacres marketed by ECKART and SUNSHINE® synthetic mica-based nacres marketed by SUN CHEMICAL.

The nacres may more particularly possess a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown and/or copper color or glint. By way of illustration of nacres which can be used in the context of the invention, mention may, in particular, be made of the gold nacres marketed, in particular, by ENGELHARD, under the name Brilliant gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres, marketed, in particular, by MERCK under the trade name Bronze fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by ENGELHARD under the trade name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the trade name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the trade name Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange® (17449) (Microna); the brown-hued nacres marketed, in particular, by ENGELHARD under the trade name Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); the copper-glint nacres marketed, in particular, by ENGELHARD under the trade name Copper 340A® (Timica); the red-glint nacres marketed in particular by MERCK under the trade name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); the yellow-glint nacres marketed, in particular, by ENGELHARD under the trade name Yellow (4502) ® (Chromalite); the gold-glint red-hued nacres marketed, in particular, by ENGELHARD under the trade name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); the pink nacres marketed, in particular, by ENGELHARD under the trade name Tan Opal G005® (Gemtone); the gold-glint black nacres marketed, in particular, by ENGELHARD under the trade name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), the blue nacres marketed, in particular, by MERCK under the trade name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna), the silver-glint white nacres marketed, in particular, by MERCK under the trade name Xirona Silver® and the green-gold and pinkish orangish nacres marketed in particular by MERCK under the trade name Indian Summer® (Xirona) and mixtures thereof.

Among the pigments that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those that have an optical effect that differs from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect of the kind produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purpose of the invention, "stabilized" means absence of an effect of variability of color with the angle of observation or in response to a temperature change. For example, this material may be selected from particles having a metallic glint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromatic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, in particular of the interference type. Of course, these various materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

The metallic-glint particles that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:

- particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative,

- particles comprising a single-substance or multi-substance, organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one metallic-glint layer comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and

- mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may, for example, be made of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term metal derivatives denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides

By way of illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those marketed under the trade names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by SIBERLINE and METALURE® by ECKART.

Mention may also be made of metal powders of copper or of alloy mixtures, such as the references 2844 marketed by RADIUM BRONZE, metal pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, for instance those marketed under the trade name ROTOSAFE 700® by ECKART, silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the trade name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER® by ECKART and metal alloy particles, such as silica-coated bronze (copper and zinc alloy) marketed under the trade name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold® by Eckart.

The particles in question may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those marketed by NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the trade name MICROGLASS METASHINE®.

The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal coloring agents.

Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used in compositions prepared according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: AI/SiO2/AI/SiO2/AI, pigments having this structure being marketed by DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr/MgF2/AI/MgF2/Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the trade name CHROMAFLAIR® by FLEX; MoS2/Si02/AI/Si02/MoS₂; Fe2Os/SiO2/AI/SiO2/Fe2O3, and Fe2O3/SiO2/Fe2Os/SiO2/Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the trade name SICOPEARL® by BASF; MoS2/Si02/mica- oxide/Si02/MoS2; Fe203/Si02/mica-oxide/Si02/Fe203; TiO2/SiO2/TiO2 and TiO2/AI₂O3/TiO2; SnO/TiO2/SiO2/TiO2/SnO; Fe2O3/SiO2/Fe2O3; SnO/mica/TiO2/SiO2/TiO2/mica/SnO, pigments having these structures being marketed under the trade name XIRONA® by MERCK (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments with a silica/titanium oxide/tin oxide structure marketed under the name XIRONA MAGIC® by MERCK, pigments with a silica/brown iron oxide structure marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER® by MERCK and pigments with a silica/titanium oxide/mica/tin oxide structure marketed under the name XIRONA CARIBBEAN BLUE® by MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the various layers, various effects are obtained. Thus, with the structure Fe2O3/SiO2/AI/ SiO2/Fe2Os, the color changes from green- golden to red-gray for SiO2 layers from 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO2 layers from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

By way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, mention may be made of those marketed by 3M under the trade name COLOR GLITTER®

Examples of liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include those sold by CHENIX, and also that marketed under the trade name HELICONE® HC by WACKER.

Hydrophobic coated pigments According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and in particular as detailed hereinafter.

This type of pigment is particularly advantageous insofar as it may be considered in a large quantity in conjunction with a large quantity of water. Moreover, since they are treated by a hydrophobic compound, they manifest a preponderant affinity for an oily gelled phase, which can then convey them.

Obviously, the compositions according to the invention may in parallel contain noncoated pigments.

The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

According to the invention, the coating of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the full or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments may be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

The surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by means of solvent evaporation, chemical reaction or creation of a covalent bond.

According to a variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

The coating may represent 0.1 % to 20% by weight and particularly 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating may be carried out for example by adsorbing a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles merely by mixing while stirring the particles and said surface agent, optionally heated, before incorporating the particles in the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating may be carried out for example by means of a chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is particularly described in the patent US 4,578,266.

The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, such that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metal soaps, n-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; plant or animal natural waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

Silicone surface agent

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be fully or partially surface- treated with a silicone compound.

The silicone surface agents may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicon-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

Organopolysiloxane compound means a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals bound with silicon atoms.

Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane

As non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, mention may particularly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethyl hydrogen siloxanes and polyalcoxydimethylsiloxanes.

The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical R-O- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

One method for surface-treating the pigments with a polymethyl hydrogen siloxane consists of dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent and then adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are formed between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surface agent may be a non- elastomeric organopolysiloxane, particularly chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes.

Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

Silanes with alkoxy function are particularly described by Witucki in A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993.

Alkoxysilanes such as the alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes marketed under the references Milquet A-137® (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202® (PCR) may be used for coating the pigments. Alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive terminal group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino are described in the application JP H07-196946. They are also suitable for treating pigments.

Silicone-acrylate polymers

Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in patents US 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037,

US 4,981 ,903, US 4,981 ,902, US 5,468,477, and in patents US 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582, may be used.

Further silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers comprising in the structure thereof the unit according to formula (II) below: w radical or a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic monomer with ethylene unsaturation; G4 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylene unsaturation; m and n are equal to 0 or 1 ; a is an integer from 0 to 50; b is an integer that may be between 10 and 350; c is an integer from 0 to 50, provided that one of the parameters a and c is different to 0.

Preferably, the unit having formula (I) above has at least one, and more preferentially all, of the following features:

- the radicals G1 denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; -n is different to zero and the radicals G2 represent a C1-C3 divalent radical, preferably a propylene radical;

-G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type with ethylene unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid;

- G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the alkyl(Ci-C ) (meth)acrylate type, preferably of the isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate type. Examples of silicone polymers complying with formula (I) are particularly polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) whereon are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connection chain, mixed polymeric units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and methyl poly(meth)acrylate type.

Further examples of silicone polymers complying with formula (I) are particularly polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) whereon are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connection chain, polymeric units of the isobutyl poly(meth)acrylate type.

Silicone resins

The silicone surface agent may be chosen from silicone resins such as those defined above.

Fluorinated surface agent

The pigments may be fully or partially surface-treated with a fluorinated compound.

The fluorinated surface agents may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.

Perfluoroalkyl radical means an alkyl radical wherein all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

Perfluoropolyethers are particularly described in the patent application EP 0 486 135, and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN by MONTEFLUOS.

Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in the application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanol amines marketed by Asahi Glass under the reference Asahi Guard AG530® may be used.

Of the linear perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluorinated hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and hydrocarbon organoperfluorinated compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

Of the perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of the linear alkane series such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

Of the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecalin sold under the trade name FLUTEC PP5 GMP by RHODIA, perfluoro(methyldecalin), perfluoro(Cs-C5 alkyl-cyclohexanes) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane).

Of the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo [3.3.1]nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and perfluorinated hydrogenated phenanthrene derivatives such as tetracosafluoro-tetradecahydrophenanthrene.

Of the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated naphthalene derivatives such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1 -naphthalene.

As examples of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, mention may be made of:

- yellow iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by Daito Kasei;

- red iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red 516L® by Daito Kasei;

- black iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black 100® by Daito Kasei;

- titanium dioxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO2 CR 50® by Daito Kasei;

-Yellow iron oxide/perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3® by Toshiki;

- DC Red 7/perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC® by Cardre Inc.; and

- DC Red 6/PTFE sold under the reference T 9506® by Warner-Jenkinson.

Fluorosilicone surface agent

The pigments may be fully or partially surface-treated with a fluorosilicone compound.

The fluorosilicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyltrialkoxysilanes.

Mention may be made of perfluoroalkyl silanes, the products LP-IT® and LP-4T® marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

As examples of commercial references of pigment treated with a fluorosilicone compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide/fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide 100TA® by Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

Other lipophilic surface agents

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from

(i) metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt;

As metallic soaps, mention may particularly be made of metallic soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and particularly those having 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The metal of the metallic soap may particularly be zinc or magnesium. As a metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof may be used.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from ill) N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof which may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

The amino acid may be for example lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium salts.

Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may be particularly a glutamic acid derivative and/or any of the salts thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be v) isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.

As examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), mention may be made of those sold under the trade reference BWBO-12® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-12® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWRO-12® (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by KOBO.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be vi) isostearyl sebacate.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from vii) natural plant or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes;

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from viii) fatty esters, in particular by jojoba esters;

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from ix) phospholipids.

The waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned above may be those used generally in the field of cosmetics, as defined hereinafter.

They may particularly be hydrocarbon, silicone and/or fluorinated compounds, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

Polar wax means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. The polar groups are well known to a person skilled in the art; they may consist for example of alcohol, ester, carboxylic acid groups. These polar waxes do not include polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, Fischer-Tropsch waxes.

In particular, polar waxes have a mean HANSEN solubility parameter ba at 25°C such that ba > 0 (J/cm³)^1/2 and preferably ba > 1 (J/cm³)^1/2:

[Math 1 ] where bp and bh are respectively the polar and specific interaction type contributions to the Hansen solubility parameters.

The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by C. M. HANSEN, The three dimensional solubility parameters J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967):

- bh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen, acid/base, donor/acceptor bonds, etc.);

- bp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles and the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

The bp and bh parameters are expressed in (J/cm³)^1/2.

A polar wax particularly consists of molecules comprising, besides carbon and hydrogen atoms in the chemical structure thereof, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P).

As a non-limiting illustration of these polar waxes, mention may particularly be made of natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, montan wax.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surface agents; N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural plant or animal waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and/or any of the salts thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and/or any of the salts thereof, or with a fatty ester, in particular with a jojoba ester.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and/or any of the salts thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and/or any of the salts thereof, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate. As examples of coated pigments according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxide and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate for example marketed under the reference NAI by MIYOSHI KASEL

Pigments not coated with a hydrophobic compound

As mentioned above, a composition may furthermore contain pigments not coated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

These other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound or be non-coated.

These pigments may be mineral pigments in particular as defined above.

These pigments may also be organic pigments.

Organic pigment means any pigment that complies with the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the Organic Pigment chapter. The organic pigments may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.

The organic pigment(s) may be chosen for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 1 1680, 1 1710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified the Color Index under the references Cl 1 1725, 15510, 45370, 71 105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771 .

The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP1184426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles including an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

The pigment may also be a lacquer. The term lacquer means insoluble dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, borosilicate, calcium and sodium or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the organic dyes, mention can be made of cochineal carmine. The products known under the following names can also be cited: D&C Red 21 (Cl 45380), D&C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D&C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D&C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D&C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D&C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D&C Green (Cl 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D&C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).

As examples of lacquers, mention may be made of the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (Cl 15 850:1 ).

Nature of the hydrophilic coating

As mentioned above, these other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic coating.

Said hydrophilic compound for surface-treating a pigment to optimize its dispersion in the gelled aqueous phase is more particularly chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

As examples of biological polymers, mention may be made of polymers based on carbohydrate type monomers.

More particularly, mention may be made of biosaccharide gum; chitosans and their derivatives, such as butoxychitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.; chitins and their derivatives, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galacto-arabinans; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; Sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

As examples of carbohydrates, mention may in particular be made of polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones, of general formula: Cx(H₂O)_y wherein x and y can range from 1 to 1 ,000,000.

Carbohydrates may be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides.

As examples of carbohydrates, mention may in particular be made of amylodextrins, betaglucans, cyclodextrins, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylcylodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, Triticum Vulgare starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, sodium chondroitidin sulfate.

C1-C20 alkylene glycols or C1-C20 alkyleneglycol ethers, alone or used in combination with tri-Ci-C2o-alkylsilanes, may also be used as surface treatment agents.

Mention may be made of pigments surface-treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxy silane, such as for example the pigments treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane marketed by KOBO under the name SW pigments.

As surface treatment agent, silicones such as dimethicones having hydrophilic groups, also known as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, may also be suitable for the invention. In particular, such dimethicones may comprise as repeating units, C1-C20, such as ethylenic or propylenic, alkylene oxides.

As an example, mention may be made of the pigment treated with PEG-12- Dimethicone, marketed by SENSIENT CORPORATION, under the trade name LCW AQ® Pigment.

The quantity of pigments coated with at least one hydrophilic compound and/or noncoated pigments is in particular determined by the end purpose of the cosmetic composition in question and its adjustment obviously falls within the expertise of the formulator of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one pigment chosen from titanium dioxides and/or iron oxides, in particular coated with an N- acylated amino acid and/or any of the salts thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and/or any of the salts thereof, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one coated or non-coated pigment, preferably at least one coated pigment.

Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA)

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one alpha hydroxy acid.

Alpha hydroxy acid refers according to the invention to a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxy function occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid function). This acid may be present in the final composition in the form of free acid and/or in the form of one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali in particular), in particular according to the final pH imposed on the composition.

The a-hydroxy acids (alpha hydroxy acids or AHA) are, for example, chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2- hydroxy-butanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2- hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-nonanoic acid, 2- hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-hexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2- hydroxytetra-cosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the alpha hydroxy acid is chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acids and their salts. More particularly, the alpha hydroxy acid is chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, their salts and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the alpha hydroxy acid is lactic acid or any of the salts thereof.

The alpha hydroxy acid(s) may be present in a quantity ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactant

The composition may also comprise at least one surfactant, preferably non-ionic, cationic, or anionic, preferably a non-ionic surfactant.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from non-ionic surfactants known from the prior art, in particular from esters of fatty acid and polyglycerol, sugar esters, poloxamers, polysorbates and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from esters of fatty acid and polyglycerol and sugar esters, preferably from esters of fatty acid and polyglycerol.

If present, the non-ionic surfactant(s) is (are) present at a concentration between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably at a concentration between 0.05% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Physiologically acceptable aqueous medium

The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.

Said medium comprises in particular water.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and/or a spring or natural mineral water, such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water.

The composition preferably comprises at least 5% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25%, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35%, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, even more preferably at least 70% by weight, advantageously at least 80% by weight. The composition preferably comprises from 5% to 95% by weight of water, with respect to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 10% to 85%, even more preferably from 20% to 80%, even more preferably from 25% to 75%, even more preferably from 28% to 70%, even more preferably from 30% to 65%, even more preferably from 35% to 60%.

The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent miscible in water at 25°C.

Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof.

Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C1-C10, more preferably C1-C5, alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

The polyol is, preferably, chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propyleneglycol, isoprene glycol, dipropyleneglycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,2-propanediol, 1 ,3- propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethyleneglycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol.

The composition may comprise from 0.1 % to 25% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1 .5% to 10% by weight, advantageously from 2% to 5% by weight.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the polyol(s), if present, and chitosan (i.e. polyokchitosan weight ratio) is between 0.1 and 6. Preferably, it is between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

Oily phase

The composition according to the invention preferably also comprises at least one oily phase. When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, this oily phase preferably contains at least one oil, particularly a cosmetic oil. It may further contain other fats. "Oil" means a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10⁵ Pa), non-miscible in water.

"Not-miscible" means that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution that comprises only one single phase, in the aforementioned conditions of temperature and pressure. The observation is made with the naked eye or using a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (for the purposes of information 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to sit, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at ambient temperature before observation.

As oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made for example of: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol "810", "812" and "818" by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

- esters and synthetic esters, in particular fatty acids, such as oils having formulas R1 COOR2 and R1 OR2 wherein R1 is the residue of a fatty acid having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl- 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, whether volatile or not, and their derivatives, branched-chain hydrocarbon oils having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and mixtures thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam® marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by WITCO, or PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation, branched alkanes alone or in a mixture, such as the mixture of undecane and tridecane marketed under the name Cetiol UT by BASF, or alkanes of plant origin, in particular from coconut, such as those marketed under the name VEGELIGHT SILK by BIOSYNTHIS, or the mixture of C13-15 alkanes marketed under the name NEOSSANCE HEMISQUALANE CN by AMYRIS;

- partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in the document JP-A-2-295912; or

- mixtures thereof.

The composition may comprise from 5% to 90% by weight of oily phase, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 7% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 60% by weight, advantageously from 15% to 40% by weight.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oily phase contains at least one non-volatile oil, of which the concentration by weight is less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10% and preferably less than or equal to 7% with respect to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the weight ratio between the oily phase and the crystallizable fat is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.3 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

"Non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

The oils may be chosen from the oils cited above.

According to an embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises a volatile oil and/or a volatile alcohol.

"Volatile oil", for the purposes of the invention, means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with skin, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils according to the invention are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at ambient temperature, having a vapor pressure different from zero, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

The volatile oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon volatile oils, silicone volatile oils, fluorinated volatile oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon volatile oils.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and particularly branched C8-C16 alkanes such as petroleum-based C8-C16 isoalkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise isododecane, cyclopentasiloxane; isohexadecane or the mixture thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil at a concentration ranging from 1 to 60% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight.

Volatile alcohol means a C1 -C4 alcohol, such as for example ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, n-propanol.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile alcohol ranging from 0.1 % to 25% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1 .5% to 10% by weight, advantageously from 2% to 5% by weight. pH of the composition

The composition according to the invention has a pH of less than or equal to 7, preferably of less than or equal to 6.5, and preferably of less than or equal to 6.3. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.3.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base and/or at least one acid. The base and the acid according to the invention are known and conventionally used in the cosmetics field.

The base and/or the acid are in particular used to adjust the final pH of the composition to between 3 and 6.3.

The acid may, for example, be citric acid.

The base may be chosen from mineral bases such as for example alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide.

Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one base at an active substance concentration ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, particularly from 1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 4% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may be obtained conventionally by those skilled in the art.

The expressions "between ... and "ranging from ... to ..." and "varies from ... to ..." are to be understood to be inclusive of the limits, unless specified otherwise.

Concrete, yet non-limiting, examples, illustrating the invention, will now be provided.

EXAMPLES

Example 1 : Preparation of compositions according to the invention C2 and C4 and of comparative compositions C1 * and C3*

Compositions according to the invention C2 and C4 and comparative compositions C1* and C3* are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table hereinbelow, according to the following protocol:

Invert emulsion

Under a Rayneri deflocculator, add the chitosan by pouring onto the water. Add the lactic acid and leave for 5 min at 300 rpm.

At the same time, in the final beaker, mix the isododecane, capryl ic/capric triglycerides, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate under a Rayneri deflocculator at 250 rpm.

Add the crystallizable fat and stir vigorously at 1000 rpm for 5 min.

Slowly add the aqueous phase into the final beaker by increasing the rotational speed to 500 rpm.

Add the dry pigmentary pastes followed by the alcohol.

Direct emulsion

Aqueous phase

- If chitosan is present:

- Disperse the chitosan in water under a Rayneri-deflocculator. - Add the lactic acid and stir for 30 min, the speed is adjusted so as to have a minimum vortex.

- Add the polyglyceryl-10 laurate and alcohol and stir for 10 min.

- Add the pigments and stir for 10 min.

- If chitosan is absent:

- Disperse the polyglyceryl-10 laurate in water under a Rayneri-deflocculator, the speed is adjusted so as to have a minimum vortex.

- Add the alcohol.

- Add the pigments and stir for 10 min.

Oily phase

- Heat the oily phase to 60°C on a magnetic hot plate so as to obtain a homogeneous mixture then cool to ambient temperature.

Emulsification

- Add the oily phase into the aqueous phase under a Rayneri-deflocculator and stir for 10 min, the speed is adjusted so as to have a minimum vortex.

Compositions C1 * and C2 are invert emulsions, and compositions C3* and C4 are direct emulsions.

The quantities of each ingredient are expressed as a mass ratio with to the total weight of the composition.

[Table 1 ] *The pigments used in the compositions are a mixture of TiO2 pigments surface-treated with stearoyl glutamate and iron oxides treated with disodium stearoyl glutamate/aluminum hydroxide pair (NAI-White A and NAI-BHP-10, NAI-YHP-10 and NAI-R-800HP-10 from Miyoshi Kasei)

Example 2: Evaluation of compositions according to the invention C2 and C4 and of comparative compositions C1 * and C3*

The dry, water and oil resistance of C1*, C2, C3* and C4 from example 1 were evaluated in vitro according to the following protocols:

Protocol for spreading the compositions into a film

Each composition is spread using a spreading bench (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) that allows the application speed and length to be adjusted. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump, so that the substrate on which the product is spread does not move. Contrast charts with a black background and an unvarnished white background are used (1 byko-chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831 ). The spreading thickness can be adjusted using the square spreader placed on the substrate, so as to spread by leveling when the platform is switched on. Each section of the spreader allows the product to be spread to a different thickness, ranging from 25pm to 200pm. The chosen thickness is 25 pm to approximate the thickness of the film in vivo. A 960 g weight is added on top of the spreader during spreading. The spreading speed is set to 1 in/sec, i.e. 2.54 cm/s. The films are dried for 24 hours at ambient temperature and humidity (50% RH).

Protocol for measuring the contrast ratio to demonstrate covering power

The color measurement is made with a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. Measurement with contact makes it possible to ensure the absence of light pollution.

Selected settings: Aperture 8 mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; SCI/SCE measurement; Geometry d/8°.

The color measurements on both backgrounds (black background FN and white background FB) make it possible to characterize the covering power of a foundation by calculating the "contrast ratio", (CR%) i.e. YFN / YFB x 100, where YFN and YFB are respectively the luminance values measured on the black background and the white background, which increases with the covering power of the foundation.

Dry, water and oil resistance test protocol The water rub resistance test is carried out by colorimetric measurements on a dry film before and after abrasion. Abrasion is carried out by attaching a strip of a cloth wipe (Chicopee Veraclean Polish Plus) that has been wetted if needed (with 400 pL of water or oil in the cloth wipe) to the 25 pm spreader section. The 960 g weight is added on top of the spreader during abrasion. The bench speed is set at 2.54 cm/s.

The spectrophotometric method is used to measure the color before and after abrasion as described above.

In order to assess rub resistance, the "Contrast Ratio", respectively before rubbing (CR Dry Deposit, %) and after abrasion (CR Rub Dry Deposit, %) are measured. The loss [(CR Rub Dry Deposit - CR Dry Deposit] / CR Dry Deposit]*100, in percentage form, quantifies the loss of covering power and indicates the film's resistance to rubbing: the lower the loss, the more resistant the film is to rubbing.

Each CR value represents an average of 3 to 6 measurements.

The results obtained are summarized in the table below.

[Table 2]

[Table 3]

These results demonstrate that:

- Adding a crystallizable fat into a direct emulsion containing 2% chitosan makes it possible to significantly enhance the oil resistance of the covering power, and

- Adding a crystallizable fat into an invert emulsion containing 2% chitosan makes it possible to significantly enhance the dry and water resistance of the covering power.

Example 3: Evaluation of stability/viscosity The three compositions of the following table (direct emulsions) were prepared according to the protocol of example 1

[Table 4]

Protocol for evaluating viscosity

The viscosity measurement is carried out on a DHR2 type rheometer from TA Instruments using a sandblasted stator and a sandblasted planar spindle for a gap of 1 mm and an experimental temperature of 25°C. The viscosity results in Pa.s are taken comparably and systematically for a shear of 0.1 s^-1.

In these tests with a total mass isoconcentration between crystallization gat and/or chitosan, it was observed that:

- Composition C5* with only the crystallizable fat separates instantly,

- The viscosity of composition C7* with only chitosan increases uncontrollably, and

- Only composition C6 according to the invention containing both a crystallizable fat and chitosan is both suitable for formulation and has a controlled and acceptable viscosity.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, in particular for making-up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Dalton, b) at least one crystallizable fat, and c) at least one pigmentary coloring material; wherein the composition presents a pH less than or equal to 6.5.

2. Composition according to claim 1 , wherein the native chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa, and preferably the native chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, and preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the degree of acetylation of the native chitosan is less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70%, preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, and preferably less than or equal to 15%.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the native chitosan is a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source, preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycetes type fungus, and in particular of Aspergillus niger and/or a Basidiomycetes fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes and/or Agaricus bisporus, preferably the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the native chitosan is preferably present in a quantity ranging from 0.01 % to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight, or more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the crystallizable fat is chosen from crystallizable fats of animal or plant origin, esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids optionally substituted by a hydroxy group and copolymers of sorbitol and C6-C16 fatty diacid esterified with C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from the triester of glycerol and behenic acid, the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid and copolymers of sorbitol and sebacic acid esterified with behenic acid, preferably chosen from the triester of glycerol and behenic acid, the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, and sunflower wax.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the crystallizable fat is present at a concentration between 0.01 % and 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 % and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 12% by weight, preferably between 1 % and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 8% by weight, advantageously between 1.5% and 7% by weight.

8. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between chitosan and the crystallizable fat is 0.00025 and 300, preferably between 0.001 and 100, preferably between 0.01 and 30, preferably between 0.05 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 4, preferably between 0.1 and 2, preferably between 0.5 and 2, advantageously between 0.5 and 1 .

9. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the pigmentary coloring material is a mineral pigment chosen from zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder, nacres, monochromatic pigments.

10. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the pigmentary coloring material is an organic pigment chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.

11. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the pigmentary coloring material is chosen from mineral pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof; preferably the pigmentary coloring material is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the pigmentary coloring material is present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 8 to 18% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, of silicone.

14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, being substantially free from silicone different from a film-forming or tacky silicone polymer; preferably the composition comprises less than 1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone different from a film-forming or tacky silicone polymer, preferably the composition is totally free from silicone different from a film-forming or tacky silicone polymer, preferably the composition according to the invention is substantially free from silicone, advantageously the composition is totally free from silicone.

15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid, preferably chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxy-butanoic acid, 2- hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2- hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-nonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2- hydroxy-hexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetra-cosanoic acid, 2- hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures thereof.

16. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the physiologically acceptable aqueous medium comprises at least 5% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25%, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight; preferably from 5% to 95% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 10% to 85%, even more preferably from 20% to 80%, even more preferably from 25% to 75%, even more preferably from 28% to 70%, even more preferably from 30% to 65%, even more preferably from 35% to 60%; and optionally at least one water-miscible organic solvent at 25°C chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof, preferably, the weight ratio between the polyol(s), if present, and chitosan is between 0.1 and 6, preferably between 0.1 et 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

18. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one surfactant, preferably a non-ionic surfactant, preferably at a concentration by weight between 0.01 % and 15% by weight, preferably at a concentration between 0.05% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at a concentration by weight less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10% and preferably less than or equal to 7% with respect to the total weight of the composition and/or of which the weight ratio between the non-volatile oil and the crystallizable fat is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.3 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

20. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, further comprising a volatile oil and/or a volatile alcohol.

21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which has a pH less than or equal to 6.3, preferably between 3 and 6.3, and preferably between 4 and 6.3.

22. Cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages, wherein the composition according to one of the preceding claims is applied to the skin and/or lips and/or skin appendages.