EP4637683A1

EP4637683A1 - Capsule for caring for keratin material and mask containing the same

Info

Publication number: EP4637683A1
Application number: EP22968890.8A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Changjian HOU; Zhenxi LEE; Liang Zhang
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2022-12-21
Filing date: 2022-12-21
Publication date: 2025-10-29
Also published as: CN120187396A; FR3143978A1; WO2024130588A1; FR3143978B1

Abstract

A capsule for caring for keratin materials comprises: an anhydrous inner core comprising at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient; and b) a water soluble film wrapping the inner core, wherein the water soluble film has a thickness in the range of 25-40μm. A non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials comprises dissolving the capsule as described above in water or a toner to obtain a composition and applying the composition onto the keratin materials.

Description

CAPSULE FOR CARING FOR KERATIN MATERIAL AND MASK CONTAINING THE SAME

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a product for caring for keratin materials. In particular, the present invention relates to a capsule for caring for keratin materials and a mask containing the same. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials.
BACKGROUND ART
It has always been an ultimate goal of the cosmetic filed to deliver to the consumers’ high efficient products with skin benefits such as hydration, moisturizing, whitening, cleansing, and so on.
Some cosmetic active ingredients used for caring for keratin materials are sensitive to water.
Current exiting products focus on water-free cosmetic base or complicated packages to avoid contacting with water.
It is not convenient for some products to be applied due to the complicated package thereof.
It is therefore sought to develop a new product which can protect water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredients from contacting water or moisture with easy application to keratin materials.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
One aim of the present invention is to provide a product for caring for keratin materials which can protect water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredients from contacting water or moisture with easy application to the keratin materials.
Another aim of the present invention is to provide a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials.
Thus, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a capsule for caring for keratin materials comprising:
a) an anhydrous inner core comprising at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient; and
b) a water soluble film wrapping the inner core,
wherein the water soluble film has a thickness in the range of 25-40μm.
In the capsule according to the present invention, the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient is stable under room temperature, 4℃, 37℃, 45℃, and 55℃ for at least 2 months, and under a temperature cycle from-20℃ to 20℃ for at least 24 hours since there is no water in the anhydrous inner core.
In addition, due to the presence of the water soluble film, consumers can use tap water, toner or mist to dissolve the capsule.
Depending on the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient contained in the capsule, the capsule according to the present invention can be used to caring for keratin materials.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble mask tissue, and
B) the capsule according to the present invention embedded in the water insoluble mask tissue.
In a third aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials comprising dissolving the capsule as described above in water or a toner to obtain a composition and applying the composition onto the keratin materials.
In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising the steps of:
(i) adding water or a toner onto the mask according to the present invention to dissolve the capsule;
(ii) applying the mask on the keratin materials;
(iii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
(iv) removing the mask from the keratin materials.
Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "from...to..." .
Moreover, the expression"at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” .Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
According to the first aspect, the capsule of the present invention comprises:
a) an anhydrous inner core comprising at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient; and
b) a water soluble film wrapping the inner core,
wherein the water soluble film has a thickness in the range of 25-40μm.
Advantageously, the capsule according to the present invention has a particle size of 1-50 mm
Anhydrous inner core
As used herein, “anhydrous” means that no water is added on purpose and the water content is less than 1%by weight of the anhydrous inner core.
Preferably, there is no water in the anhydrous inner core.
According to the first aspect, the anhydrous inner core comprises at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient.
The water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredients which can be used according to the invention are in particular enzymes (for example lactoperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase or cellulases) , natural extracts (such as green tea, balm extract, thyme extract) , procyanidol oligomers (PCO) (such as hawthorn PCO, pine PCO and grape PCO) , vitamins (in particular vitamin B (for example, vitamin B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9, or B12) , ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters or retinol (vitamin A) and its esters) , pantothenic acid, phosphated and glucosylated derivatives, urea and rutin.
Thus, the capsule comprises at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient selected from enzymes, natural extracts, procyanidol oligomers (PCO) , vitamins, phosphated and glucosylated derivatives, urea, and a combination thereof.
Preferably, the capsule comprises at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient selected from ascorbic acid, retinol, their esters, and a combination thereof.
For example, the ester of retinol can be retinyl palmitate.
In some embodiments, the inner core comprises retinyl palmitate as a water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient.
In some embodiments, the inner core comprises ascorbic acid as a water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient.
In some embodiments, the inner core comprises tocopheryl acetate as a water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient.
The skilled in the art can choose the amount of the water-senstive cosmetic active ingredient based on the intend purpose.
Advantageously, the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient is present in the inner core of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 35 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 30 wt. %, most preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the capsule according to the present invention.
The anhydrous inner core can be an oil type or a solid type.
As used in the present application, an oil type inner core means that the inner core comprises the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient in an oily phase.
Preferably, an oil type inner core is used when the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient can be dissolved or suspended in an oily phase.
Preferably, the oil type inner core comprises at least one oil.
Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25℃) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
As the oil (s) , those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. The oil (s) may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.
The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones, or the like; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers; or a mixture thereof.
The oil may be oils of plant or animal origin and synthetic oils.
The oil type inner core according to the invention may in particular comprise hydrocarbon oils.
The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:
-linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane;
-linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as and squalane;
-plant oils, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof;
-artificial triglycerides, for example, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, and glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate/linolenate) ;
-ester oils, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate) , pentaerythrithyl tetra (2-ethylhexanoate) , 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof;
-ether oils;
-and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the oil type inner core comprises at least one oil selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and a combination thereof.
The oil type inner core may also comprise a polyol.
As the polyols, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.
Preferably, apolyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two–OH functions, in particular at least three–OH functions and more particularly at least four–OH functions.
The polyols that are suitable for formulating an inner core according to the present invention are in particular those notably containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
The polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerine, butanediol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerine, butanediol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, more preferably is dipropylene glycol.
With the presence of dipropylene glycol, oil type inner core has improved stability.
Preferably, dipropylene glycol is present in the inner core in an amount ranging from 5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the inner core.
The oil type inner core may also comprise at least one surfactant, preferably a non-ionic surfactant, more preferably a polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant.
Preferably, the polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 4 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably 5 or 6 glycerols. In other words, it is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise from 2 to 10 polyglyceryl units, more preferably 4 to 8 polyglyceryl units, and even more preferably 5 or 6 polyglyceryl units.
The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from monoesters, diesters and triesters of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, preferably saturated fatty acid, including from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.
The polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant be chosen from: polyglyceryl mono-or di-caprate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl mono-or di-oleate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units; polyglyceryl mono-or di-caprylate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, and combinations thereof.
It is more preferable that the polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant be selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate (PG6 dicaprate) , polyglyceryl-6 dioleate (PG6 dioleate) , polyglyceryl-6 caprylate (PG6 caprylate) , polyglyceryl-2 oleate (PG2 oleate) , and combinations thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the oil type inner core comprises retinyl palmitate, at least one polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant such as polyglyceryl-2 oleate and at least one oil selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and a combination thereof.
In a more preferred embodiments, the anhydrous inner core comprises retinyl palmitate, , at least one polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant such as polyglyceryl-2 oleate, at least one polyol such as dipropylene glycol, and at least one oil selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and a combination thereof.
As used in the present application, asolid type inner core means that the inner core is in a solid form.
Preferably, the solid type inner core comprises particles of 20-80 mesh.
Preferably, the solid type inner core further comprises at least one binder.
As used herein, a binder is a viscous substance helping separate materials joined together.
The binder can be highly water soluble polymers such as xanthan gum, starch, and a combination thereof.
According to some embodiments, the binder is selected from vegetable starches, gelatin, polyacrylamides, polyvinylalcohol, polyacrylic acid, polyamines, polyethyleneimines, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers (PVP) , polyethylene glycols, cellulose gum and its derivatives such as methylcellulose derivatives, quaternary ammonium cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, agar, pectin gum, guar gum and their derivatives, carboxypolymethylene, and their combinations.
Preferably, the binder is selected from xanthan gum, starch, cellulose gum, starch, and a combination thereof.
More preferably, the binder is cellulose gum.
If presents, the binder is present in the solid type inner core of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the core according to the present invention.
Preferably, the solid type inner core further comprises a water soluble salt as a pH adjusting agent.
The water soluble salt can be for example, sodium or calcium or potassium salt.
In some embodiments, the solid type inner core comprises a water soluble salt selected from sodium salts, calcium salts, potassium salts, and a combination thereof, preferably selected from sodium citrate, calcium citrate, potassium citrate, and a combination thereof.
Preferably, the solid type inner core comprises sodium citrate.
If presents, the water soluble salt is present in the solid type inner core of the present invention in an amount so that the pH of the solid type inner core is in the range of 4-8.
The solid type inner core may also comprise an oil mentioned above.
Preferably, the oil is present in the solid type inner core of the present invention in an amount ranging from 20 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the core according to the present invention.
In a preferred embodiment, the solid type inner core comprises ascorbic acid, tocopheryl acetate, sodium citrate, cellulose gum, and at least one oil selected from squalane, caprylic/capric glycerides, and a combination thereof.
Optionally, the solid type or oil type inner core comprises a fragrance.
The flagrance is not particularly limited.
The skilled in the art can adjust the amount of the flagrance through conventional means.
Optionally, the solid type inner core comprises a pigment.
The pigment is not particularly limited.
The skilled in the art can adjust the amount of the pigment through conventional means.
Water soluble film
According to the first aspect, the water soluble film has a thickness of 25-40 μm.
Preferably, the water soluble film has a thickness of 25-30μm.
Preferably, the water soluble film can be dissolved in water at room temperature (about 20℃) within 30 seconds.
Preferably, the water soluble film is made from a water soluble film forming polymer.
Preferably, the water soluble film forming polymer is selected from polyvinyl pyrolidone, gelatin, collagen, sodium hyaluronate, pullulan, polyvinyl alcohol, hydroxy (Cl-C6) alkyl (Cl-C6) alkyl cellulose, and a combination thereof.
For examples of hydroxy (Cl-C6) alkyl (Cl-C6) alkyl cellulose, mention can be made of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, and ethylhydroxyethyl cellulose.
According to a preferred embodiment, the water soluble film is made from polyvinyl alcohol.
The water soluble film may also comprise a pigment.
The pigment is not particularly limited.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a capsule for caring for keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the capsule:
a) an anhydrous inner core comprising from 0.1 wt. %to 35 wt. %of at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient; and
b) a water soluble film made from polyvinyl alcohol with a thickness of 25-30 μm wrapping the inner core.
Mask
According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble mask tissue, and
B) the capsule according to the present invention embedded in the water insoluble mask tissue.
Water insoluble mask tissue
According to the second aspect, the mask according to the present invention comprises a water insoluble mask tissue.
For the purpose of the invention, the term “water insoluble” means that the mask tissue is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’ t break apart upon immersion in water.
The skilled in the art can choose a suitable mask tissue and the weight ratio of the mask tissue used and the capsule according to the present invention based on the nature of the capsule.
The mask tissue can be a woven or non-woven fabric made of natural fibers such as cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers. Two or more selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.
In some embodiments, the mask tissue is an alginate tissue.
Alginate tissues are known in the art and are described in WO2020001069A1.
For example, an alginate tissue may comprise a water insoluble alginate chosen from calcium alginate, strontium alginate, zinc alginate, copper alginate, manganese alginate, or a mixture thereof, preferably calcium alginate, preferably in an amount ranging from 20 wt.%to 100 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the tissue.
Preferably, when the mask tissue is an alginate tissue, the capsule according to the present invention comprises a pH adjusting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.45 wt. %, more preferably from 0.15 wt. %to 0.3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the capsule according to the present invention.
The mask tissue may be consisted of one or more layers. If a multilayer tissue is used, the material of each layer may be the same or different from each other. The multilayer tissue can be prepared by laminating multiple layers made from the materials mentioned above.
The mask tissue can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the mask.
The mask tissue is typically designed to fit the area of the skin to which topical application is desired. For example, when the mask is applied to the face, the mask tissue is designed to correspond to the shape of the face avoiding the eye, nostril, and mouth areas, as necessary.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate to the capsule ranges from 1: 1 to 1: 10. More preferably, the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate to the capsule ranges from 1: 1 to 1: 15.
Preparation and use
The capsule according to the present invention can be prepared by firstly preparing the anhydrous inner core and the water soluble film separately and then wrapping the inner core with the film.
The anhydrous inner core can be prepared by mixing all components for the anhydrous inner core.
The film can be prepared with a water soluble film-forming polymer by a casting method as well known to the skilled in the art.
Prior to forming the film, the following ingredients, i.e. asolvent and polyol (such as water, glycerin, ethylene glycol, and a mixture thereof) may be blended and mixed. The mixture may be heated until 70 or 80℃, for example 75℃. The water soluble film-forming polymer may then be added during a vigorous mixing step to avoid polymer agglomeration. Any optional ingredient may then be added. Optional ingredients such as pigments, perfume, and preservatives may be added at a temperature ranging from 25℃ to 45℃.
For the formation of a film or "film casting", the film-forming material may be poured into a film drawing machine where a uniform film is drawn out on a rotating belt.
The capsule can be prepared with a known process.
In particular, the anhydrous inner core can be filed into the water-soluble film in the shape of a capsule and the water soluble film can be sealed by heating.
The sealing can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 160 ℃ to 200℃.
The capsule according to the present invention can be used to care for keratin materials.
According to the third aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials comprising dissolving the capsule as described above in water or a toner to obtain a composition and applying the composition onto the keratin materials.
The keratin materials can be, in particular, the skin.
According to the fourth aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials comprising the steps of:
(i) adding water or a toner onto the mask according to the present invention to dissolve the capsule;
(ii) applying the mask on the keratin materials;
(iii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
(iv) removing the mask from the keratin materials.
In particular, the keratin materials are the skin.
The mask as defined above are applied on at least one zone of the skin.
In particular, the composition or the mask as defined above are applied on facial skin and/or eye skin.
Preferably, the application time is from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
EXAMPLES
The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Invention Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2
Capsules of invention examples (IE) 1-2 and comparative example (CE) 1 were prepared.
Firstly, oil type or solid type inner cores of invention examples 1-2 and comparative example 1 were prepared based on the ingredients given in Tables 2 and 3. The amounts in Table 2 and table 3 are given in %by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the inner core.
Table 2
Table 3
1) SODIUM CITRATE (and) CELLULOSE GUM comprises SODIUM CITRATE 98%and CELLULOSE GUM 2%.
2) ASCORBIC ACID (and) YELLOW 6 comprises ASCORBIC ACID 90.415%, SUCROSE 9.56%and YELLOW 6/CI 159850.025%.
3) SQUALANE (and) CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES (and) FRAGRANCE/PARFUM (and) TOCOPHERYL ACETATE comprises SQUALANE 47.42%, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES 24.69%, DEXTRIN 19.75%, SILICA 4.94%, FRAGRANCE/PARFUM 2.2%and TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 1%.
The oil type inner cores as shown in Table 2 can be prepared as follows, taking that of invention example 1 as an example:
i) adding and mixing all the ingredients together, heating up to 60 ℃to make sure all the ingredients being melted and mixed evenly to obtain an oil mixture;
ii) cooling the oil mixture to room temperature; and
iii) filling the oil mixture into a water soluble polymer film made from polyvinyl alcohol in the shape of a capsule and sealing it at a temperature of 180℃.
The solid type inner cores as shown in Table 3 can be prepared as follows, taking that of invention example 2 as an example:
i) adding and mixing all solid ingredients together to make sure all ingredients fully mixed to obtain a solid mixture;
ii) putting the solid mixture into a water soluble polymer film made from polyvinyl alcohol in the shape of a capsule and sealing it at a temperature of 180℃.
Evaluation
Stability
The stability of the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient contained in the capsules prepared above was evaluated as follows:
1) putting the capsules prepared at room temperature (25℃) , 45 ℃, and 45℃, respectively; and
2) checking the amount of the water sensitive ingredient contained after 2 months.
The stability of the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient will be evaluated as “Pass” if the amount of the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient decreased less than 30 wt. %after all of the stability tests mentioned above, otherwise, it will be evaluated as “Fail” .
Compatibility
The compatibility was evaluated as follows:
1) putting the capsules prepared at 4℃, room temperature (25℃) , 37℃, 45℃, 55℃, 45℃/80%humidity, and temperature cycling from -20℃ to 20℃, respectively;
2) checking the appearance and color of the capsules after 2 months.
Appearance: it is acceptable if there is no caking or melting.
Color: it is acceptable if there is no color change or a slightly change on color, and it is not acceptable if color changes from transparent to brownish.
The compatibility will be classified as “Pass” if both the appearance and the color are acceptable after two months of storage at all testing temperatures, otherwise it will be classified as “Fail” .
The results on stability and compatibility of each capsule prepared above were summarized in Table 4.
Table 4

Properties	IE. 1	IE. 2	CE. 1
Stability	Pass	Pass	Pass
Compatibility	Pass	Pass	Fail

Claims

A capsule for caring for keratin materials comprising:

a) an anhydrous inner core comprising at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient; and

b) a water soluble film wrapping the inner core,

wherein the water soluble film has a thickness in the range of 25-40μm.
The capsule according to claim 1, wherein the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient is selected from enzymes, natural extracts, procyanidol oligomers (PCO) , vitamins, phosphated and glucosylated derivatives, urea, and a combination thereof.
The capsule according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient is selected from ascorbic acid, retinol, their esters, and a combination thereof.
The capsule according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient is present in the inner core in an amount ranging 0.1 wt. %to 35 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 30 wt. %, most preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the capsule.
The capsule according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the anhydrous inner core is an oil type inner core or a solid type inner core.
The capsule according to claim 5, wherein the oil type inner core comprises the water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient in an oily phase.
The capsule according to claim 5, wherein the oil type inner core comprises at least one oil selected from dicaprylyl carbonate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and a combination thereof.
The capsule according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the oil type inner core comprises a polyol chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerine, butanediol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
The capsule according to any of claims 6-8, wherein the oil type inner core comprises at least one surfactant, preferably a non-ionic surfactant, more preferably a polyglycerol-based nonionic surfactant, even more preferably, apolyglyceryl fatty acid ester.
The capsule according to claim 5, wherein the solid type inner core is in a solid form comprising at least one binder selected from vegetable starches, gelatin, polyacrylamides, polyvinylalcohol, polyacrylic acid, polyamines, polyethyleneimines, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers (PVP) , polyethylene glycols, cellulose gum and its derivatives such as methylcellulose derivatives, quaternary ammonium cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, agar, pectin gum, guar gum and their derivatives, carboxypolymethylene, and their combinations; preferably the binder is selected from xanthan gum, starch, cellulose gum, starch, and a combination thereof, more preferably, the binder is cellulose gum.
The capsule according to claim 10, wherein the binder is present in the solid type inner core in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the capsule.
The capsule according to claim 10 or 11, wherein the solid type inner core further comprises a water soluble salt selected from sodium salts, calcium salts, potassium salts, and a combination thereof, preferably selected from sodium citrate, calcium citrate, potassium citrate, and a combination thereof as a pH adjusting agent.
The capsule according to claim 12, wherein the pH of the solid type inner core is from 4 to 8.
The capsule according to any of claims 1 to 13, wherein the water soluble film is made from a water soluble film forming polymer, preferably selected from polyvinyl pyrolidone, gelatin, collagen, sodium hyaluronate, pullulan, polyvinyl alcohol, hydroxy (Cl-C6) alkyl (Cl-C6) alkyl cellulose, and a combination thereof, preferably, the water soluble film is made of polyvinyl alcohol.
The capsule according to claim 1, wherein comprising, relative to the total weight of the capsule:

a) an anhydrous inner core comprising from 0.1 wt. %to 35 wt. %of at least one water-sensitive cosmetic active ingredient; and

b) a water soluble film made from polyvinyl alcohol with a thickness of 10-20 μm wrapping the inner core.
A mask for caring for keratin materials, comprising:

A) a water insoluble mask tissue, and

B) the capsule according to any of claims 1 to 15 embedded in the water insoluble mask tissue.
The mask according to claim 16, wherein the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate to the capsule ranges from 1: 1 to 1: 10, preferably, the weight ratio of the water insoluble substrate to the capsule ranges from 1: 1 to 1: 5.
A non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials comprising dissolving the capsule according to any of claims 1-15 in water or a toner to obtain a composition and applying the composition onto the keratin materials.
A non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials comprising the steps of:

(i) adding water or a toner onto the mask according to claim 16 or 17 to dissolve the capsule;

(ii) applying the mask on the keratin materials;

(iii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and

(iv) removing the mask from the keratin materials.