EP4489868A1

EP4489868A1 - Composition comprising at least one amps® copolymer, at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, at least one uv-screening agent and isopropyl myristate

Info

Publication number: EP4489868A1
Application number: EP23710017.7A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Sandra Rabussier; Agathe LACOMME; Laurent Cordier
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2022-03-10
Filing date: 2023-03-09
Publication date: 2025-01-15
Also published as: FR3133311A1; FR3133311B1; WO2023170236A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition in emulsion form, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable support, at least one aqueous phase, at least one oily phase, at least one copolymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer and at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group, at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, at least one UV-screening agent, and isopropyl myristate.

Description

Title: COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE AMPS® COPOLYMER, AT LEAST ONE ALKYL(POLY)GLYCOSIDE, AT LEAST ONE UV-SCREENING AGENT AND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition in emulsion form, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable support, at least one aqueous phase, at least one oily phase, at least one copolymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer and at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group, at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, at least one UV-screening agent, and isopropyl myristate.

Technical field

[0002] In the cosmetics field, an increasing number of consumers are looking for cosmetic products which are not only intended for the care of keratin materials, but also have a photoprotective activity on keratin materials, while at the same time remaining very demanding with regard to the sensory qualities and to the performance quality thereof.

[0003] It is in fact well known that light radiation with wavelengths of between 280 nm and 400 nm permits tanning of the human epidermis and that light rays with wavelengths of between 280 and 320 nm, known as UVB rays, cause erythema and skin burns; this UVB radiation should thus be screened out.

[0004] It is also known that UVA rays, with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause tanning of the skin, are liable to induce adverse changes therein, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin that is continually exposed to solar radiation. UVA rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature ageing. They promote triggering of the erythemal reaction or amplify this reaction in certain individuals and may even be the cause of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. It is therefore desirable also to screen out UVA radiation.

[0005] The UVA and UVB rays thus have to be screened out and there currently exist protective cosmetic compositions for the human epidermis which contain UVA- and UVB-screening agents.

[0006] Keratin material care compositions comprising at least one UVA- and/or UVB- screening agent are generally in the form of an emulsion, of oil-in-water type (i.e. a cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable support constituted of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and of a fatty dispersed discontinuous phase), or of water-in- oil type (aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous fatty phase), which contains, in varying concentrations, one or more standard liposoluble organic screening agents and/or standard water-soluble organic screening agents capable of selectively absorbing the harmful UV radiation, these screening agents (and the amounts thereof) being selected as a function of the desired sun protection factor, the sun protection factor (SPF) being expressed mathematically as the ratio of the dose of UV radiation required to reach the erythemaforming threshold with the UV-screening agent to the dose of the UV radiation required to reach the erythema-forming threshold without the UV-screening agent. In such emulsions, the hydrophilic screening agents are present in the aqueous phase and the lipophilic screening agents are present in the fatty phase. Multiple emulsions, obtained after dispersion of an invert emulsion in an aqueous phase, also exist.

[0007] The use of certain organic screening agents in these keratin material care emulsions has a tendency to degrade their sensory qualities when the composition is taken up from the jar (when formulas are packaged in this way), but also when they are applied to the skin. Thus, the presence of organic UV-screening agents results in particular in spreading which has less glidance and in a greater transformation of the texture to oil. In addition, the skin finish is also detrimentally modified by the presence of such screening agents, and results in formulas that are more waxy (giving a rougher skin finish) and more sticky (giving a tackier skin finish).

[0008] The objective of the present invention is thus to provide a specific combination of starting materials for formulating keratin material care compositions in the form of emulsions with the use of UV-screening agents, in particular organic UV-screening agents, without the drawbacks stated above.

[0009] This need is all the greater since the daily photoprotection market is growing rapidly. An increasing number of hybrid products providing skin care and SPF 15-20 protection are being launched, but the challenge remains of providing a pleasant sensoriality for daily application. The skin care world remains very different from the photoprotection field in terms of consumer experience, in particular with products sold in jars, thereby increasing the complexity of the formula development.

[0010] It is therefore sought to have a product with an SPF while at the same time keeping the sensory codes of skin care: Appearance, texture, consistency, sensory aspect. [0011] In other words, the objective of the invention is to develop a product with an advantageous sensory aspect, in particular with a soft, non-tacky skin finish and good spreading properties (glidance and limited transformation to oil), allowing daily photoprotection and which can be sold in packaging conventionally used in the skin care field, in particular a formulation in jars.

[0012] The present invention is specifically directed towards meeting these needs.

Disclosure of the invention

[0013] A subject of the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable support:

[0014] a) at least one aqueous phase,

[0015] b) at least one oily phase,

[0016] c) at least one copolymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer and at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group,

[0017] d) at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside,

[0018] e) at least one UV-screening agent, and

[0019] f) isopropyl myristate.

[0020] The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[0021] A subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

[0022] Against all expectations, the inventions have noted that a composition in the form of an emulsion, comprising at least one AMPS® copolymer in combination with at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, at least one UV- screening agent and isopropyl myristate improved spreading, soft feel and/or non-tackiness qualities.

[0023] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The characteristics of the various examples may notably be combined within variants which are not illustrated. [0024] The expression "comprising a" should be understood as meaning "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0025] The expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in the present description are equivalent, respectively, to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to.

[0026] The term "keratin materials" according to the invention is understood to mean the skin of the body, face and/or area around the eyes, the lips, the nails, the mucus membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the body hairs, the scalp and/or the hair, or any other cutaneous region of the body. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, the hair and/or the skin.

[0027] Preferably, the keratin material according to the invention is the skin.

[0028] The term "skin" is intended to mean all of the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or more preferably still the skin of the face, in particular of the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin and area around the eyes.

[0029] The term "copolymer" is intended to mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomer and those obtained from more than two types of monomer, such as terpolymers obtained from three types of monomer.

[0030] For the purposes of the present invention:

[0031] - the term "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) is intended to mean: the sun protection factor which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The value of the SPF corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time necessary to obtain sunburn with an anti-sun composition and the minimum time without product. More specifically, the term "SPF” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989).

[0032] Evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out in vitro with a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material to which the anti-sun composition is applied. For this protocol, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates proved to be ideal.

[0033] Evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be performed in vivo according to the protocol ISOZEN 24444 “Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - in-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2010)”.

[0034] - The term “PPD” (Persistent Pigment Darkening) is intended to mean: the index characterising the protection with respect to UVA radiation. In particular, the “PPD” measures the colour of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA radiation. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official test procedure for the UVA labelling of products and is frequently used by test laboratories in Europe and the United States (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued 21 November 1995 and effective as of 1 January 1996).

[0035] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferentially a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin materials such as the skin.

AMPS® copolymer

[0036] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer and at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group.

[0037] Within the context of the present invention, the term "hydrophobic group" is understood to be a hydrocarbon-based, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms.

[0038] The AMPS® copolymer(s) may be crosslinked. When they are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0039] The term "crosslinked copolymer" is understood to be a non-linear copolymer which is in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, leading to the production of a chemical gel.

[0040] The crosslinking agent is more particularly chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallylurea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide, or a mixture of these compounds. Preferably, the crosslinking agent is trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[0041] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer(s) are crosslinked by a crosslinking agent, preferably trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[0042] The 2-acrylamido-2 -methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) of the copolymer contained in the composition in accordance with the invention are in free form or are partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N- methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and the mixture of these compounds.

[0043] According to the invention, the 2-acrylamido-2 -methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomers preferably correspond to general formula (I) below:

[0044] [Chem. 1]

[0045] in which X⁺ denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-Cg alkyl radical such as methyl, and Ri preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0046] Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2 -methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are partially or completely salified in the form of an ammonium salt.

[0047] More preferentially, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are completely salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt.

[0048] The AMPS® copolymer(s) comprise at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one fatty hydrocarbon-based chain part comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0049] This ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer is preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (II):

[0050] [Chem. 2]

[0051] in which Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-Cg alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y denotes O or NH; R2 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.

[0052] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), Y denotes an oxygen atom.

[0053] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), the group Ri represents a methyl.

[0054] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, x represents an integer between 3 and 25.

[0055] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0056] According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group Ri represents a methyl, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25.

[0057] Preferably, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group of formula (II) is ethoxylated (25EO) stearyl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula (II) in which the group Ri represents a methyl, the group Y denotes O, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising 18 carbon atoms and x is equal to 25.

[0058] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group of formula (II) is tetraethoxylated (4EO) lauryl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula (II) in which the group Ri represents a methyl, the group Y denotes O, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4.

[0059] In this embodiment, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

[0060] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula (II) in which x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group Ri representing a methyl, and the group R2 representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0061] In this embodiment, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.

[0062] According to another particular embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula (II) in which x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group Ri representing a methyl, and the group R2 representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and at least one monomer of formula (II) in which Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group Ri represents a methyl, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.

[0063] In this embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer preferably comprises, as monomers bearing a hydrophobic group, lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

[0064] Preferably, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is ethoxylated (25EO) stearyl methacrylate.

[0065] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS® copolymer may also comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups, preferably corresponding to the general formula (III) below:

[0066] [Chem. 3]

[0067] in which Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, Ri preferably denotes a hydrogen atom, R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical and R3 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical and R2 and R3 preferably denote a methyl.

[0068] The ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and the esters ((meth)acrylates) thereof, such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, vinylpyrrolidones, N-(Ci- C4)alkylacrylamides, and N,N-di(Ci-C4)alkylacrylamides such as N,N-dimethylacrylamide.

[0069] In this embodiment, the ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is preferably N,N-dimethylacrylamide.

[0070] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid which is preferably totally salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt, and of ethoxylated (25EO) stearyl methacrylate.

[0071] As AMPS® copolymer, mention may be made of the copolymer sold under the reference Aristoflex HMS by Clariant, of INCI name Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer. [0072] The AMPS® copolymer(s) described above may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0. 1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Emulsifying system

[0073] The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl (poly )gly coside.

[0074] The term "emulsifying system" is intended to mean a system capable of forming an emulsion comprising surfactants.

[0075] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "alkyl(poly)glycoside" is intended to mean an alkylmonosaccharide (degree of polymerization 1) or an alkyl polysaccharide (degree of polymerization greater than 1). In a preferred embodiment, the alkyl(poly)gly coside according to the invention is an alkylpolyglucoside.

[0076] The alkyl(poly)glycosides may be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkyl(poly)glycosides. They generally correspond to formula (IV) below:

[0077] [Chem. 4]

[0078] in which:

- the radical Ri denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 8 to 22, and even more preferentially from 12 to 20;

- the group G is a saccharide residue;

- a is a number ranging from 1 to 10.

[0079] Examples of alkyl(poly)glycosides that may be mentioned include decyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel or the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10® by SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by Cognis or Oramix CG 110® by SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cetearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, for example sold under the name Montanov 68 by SEPPIC, under the name Tego Care CG90 by Evonik Goldschmidt and under the names Emulgade PL1618 or Emulgade KE 3302 by Cognis; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by SEPPIC; cocoglucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; or the product in the form of a mixture of cocyl polyglucoside and of cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35/65) sold under the name Montanov 82 by SEPPIC; methyl cocoyl glucoside sold under the name Eumulgin GTS by Cognis; octyldodecyl xyloside sold, for example, under the names Fluidanov 20X or Easynov by SEPPIC; caprylyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; and mixtures thereof.

[0080] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the radical Ri denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22, and even more preferentially from 12 to 20.

[0081] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, (G)_a is a glucoside group comprising from 1 to 5 and especially 1.2 to 3 glucoside units.

[0082] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) correspond to formula (V) below:

[0083] [Chem. 5]

RO-(G)

(V)

[0084] in which:

- the radical R denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;

- the group G is a saccharide residue;

- x ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5 and even more preferentially from 1.1 to 2.

[0085] The saccharide residue may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the saccharide residue is glucose.

[0086] It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkyl(poly)glycoside may be in a or isomer form, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type.

[0087] It is, of course, possible to use mixtures of alkyl polysaccharides, which may differ from one another in the nature of the borne alkyl unit and/or the nature of the bearing polysaccharide chain. [0088] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl(poly)glycoside may be used as a mixture with at least one fatty alcohol, especially a fatty alcohol containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0089] In addition, it is particularly advantageous, according to the present invention, to use together a fatty alcohol and an alkyl(poly)glycoside of which the alkyl part is identical to that of the selected fatty alcohol.

[0090] The fatty alcohol/alkyl(poly)glycoside emulsifying mixtures as defined above are known as such. They are described especially in applications WO92/06778, WO95/13863 and WO98/47610 and prepared according to the preparation processes indicated in these documents.

[0091] Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohol/alkyl(poly)glycoside mixtures, mention may be made of the products sold by SEPPIC under the name Montanov®, such as the following mixtures:

- cetylstearyl alcohol/cocoyl glucoside - Montanov 82®,

- arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside - Montanov 202®,

- myristyl alcohol/myristyl glucoside - Montanov 14®,

- cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside - Montanov 68®,

- C14-C22 alcohol/Ci2-C2o alkyl glucoside - Montanov L®,

- cocoyl alcohol/cocoyl glucoside - Montanov S®,

- isostearyl alcohol/isostearyl glucoside - Montanov WO 18®.

[0092] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) employed in the composition according to the invention are chosen from cetylstearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) employed in the composition according to the invention are used in the form of a mixture with a fatty alcohol chosen from cetylstearyl alcohol (also called cetearyl alcohol), arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) are chosen from the arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside mixture, the cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside mixture, and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside chosen from the arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside mixture, the cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside mixture, and mixtures thereof. [0096] Mention may be made of the cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside mixture, sold by SEPPIC under the name Montanov 68®, constituted of approximately 20% of cetylstearyl glucoside and approximately 80% of cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0097] Mention may also be made of the arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside mixture sold by SEPPIC under the name Montanov 202®.

[0098] The alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

UV-screening agents

Organic UV-screening agents

[0099] The compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV-screening agents. Said organic UV-screening agents can be chosen from hydrophilic organic UV- screening agents, lipophilic organic UV-screening agents and insoluble organic UV-screening agents.

[00100] The term “hydrophilic UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or else which can be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[00101] The term “lipophilic screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or else which can be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[00102] The term “insoluble UV-screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound for screening out UV radiation which has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in the majority of organic solvents such as liquid paraffin, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® sold by Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, determined at 70°C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after returning to ambient temperature. It can be easily evaluated in the laboratory.

[00103] The term “organic UVA-screening agent” is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA rays in the wavelength range of between 320 and 400 nm; it being possible for said molecules to likewise also absorb UVB rays in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.

[00104] The term “organic UVB-screening agent” is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing exclusively UVB radiation in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.

[00105] The organic UV-screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; P,P-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis- benzazolyl compounds, such as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; p- aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, such as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, such as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described in particular in application WO 93/04665; dimers derived from a-alkyl styrene, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4- di arylbutadiene compounds, such as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

[00106] Mention may be made, as examples of organic photoprotective agents, of those denoted below under their INCI names.

[00107] Cinnamic compounds:

Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX® by DSM Nutritional Products,

Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate,

Isoamyl p-Methoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise,

DEA Methoxy cinnamate,

Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,

Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

[00108] Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789® by DSM Nutritional Products,

Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.

[00109] para-Aminobenzoic compounds:

PABA,

Ethyl PABA,

Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, sold in particular under the name Escalol 507® by ISP,

Glyceryl PABA,

PEG-25 PABA, sold under the name Uvinul P 25® by BASF.

[00110] Salicylic compounds:

Homosalate, sold under the name Eusolex HMS® by Rona/EM Industries,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS® by Symrise,

Dipropylene Glycol Salicylate, sold under the name Dipsal® by Scher, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise.

[00111] Diphenylacrylate compounds:

Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N 539® by BASF,

Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N 35® by BASF.

[00112] Benzophenone compounds:

Benzophenone- 1, sold under the trade name Uvinul 400® by BASF,

Benzophenone-2, sold under the trade name Uvinul D 50® by BASF,

Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M 40® by BASF,

Benzophenone-4, sold under the trade name Uvinul MS 40® by BASF,

Benzophenone-5,

Benzophenone-6, sold under the trade name Helisorb 11® by Norquay,

Benzophenone-8, sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24® by American Cyanamid, Benzophenone-9, sold under the trade name Uvinul DS 49® by BASF,

B enzophenone- 12, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, sold under the trade name Uvinul A Plus® or, as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul A Plus B® by BASF,

1 , l'-( 1 ,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[ 1 -[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in application WO 2007/071584; this compound advantageously being used in micronized form (mean size of 0.02 to 2 pm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A- 2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.

[00113] Benzylidenecamphor compounds:

3 -Benzylidene Camphor, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD® by Chimex,

4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, sold under the name Eusolex 6300® by Merck, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL® by Chimex, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SO® by Chimex, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX® by Chimex,

Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW® by Chimex.

[00114] Phenylbenzimidazole compounds:

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.

[00115] Bis-benzazolyl compounds:

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP® by Haarmann and Reimer.

[00116] Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:

Drometrizole Trisiloxane, sold under the name Silatrizole® by Rhodia Chimie.

[00117] Methylenebis(hvdroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds: Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name Mixxim BB/100® by Fairmount Chemical, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with a mean particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkyl polyglycoside surfactant having the structure CnH2n+iO(C6Hio05)xH, in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the mean degree of polymerization of the (CeHioOs) unit and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb M® by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with a mean particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 pm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 pm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm, in the presence of at least one polyglyceryl mono(Cs- C2o)alkyl ester with a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009/063392.

[00118] Triazine compounds:

- 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis- Diphenyltriazine, and with the following chemical structure:

[Chem 1]

- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, sold under the trade name Tinosorb S® by BASF,

- Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T 150® by BASF,

- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB® by Sigma 3 V,

- 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

- 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

- 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

- 2,4-bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, - symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US 6 225 467, application W02004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives", IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine, which is also mentioned in patent applications W006/035000, WO06/034982, W006/034991, W006/035007, W02006/034992 and W02006/034985, these compounds advantageously being used in micronized form (mean particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm), which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

- silicone triazines substituted by two aminobenzoate groups, such as described in patent EP 0 841 341, in particular 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1,3,3, 3 -tetramethyl- 1- [(trimethylsilyloxy)]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-tri azine.

[00119] Anthranilic compounds:

Menthyl anthranilate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA® by Symrise.

[00120] Imidazoline compounds:

Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.

[00121] Benzalmalonate compounds:

Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functions, such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-La Roche.

[00122] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds:

1 , 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

[00123] Benzoxazole compounds:

2,4-Bis[5-(l-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5- triazine, sold under the name Uvasorb K2A® by Sigma 3 V.

[00124] The preferential organic screening agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Homosalate,

Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

B enzophenone-3 ,

B enzophenone-4,

Benzophenone-5, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,

4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate,

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

2.4.6-Tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

2.4.6-Tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

2.4-Bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

2.4-Bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,

2.4-Bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-

[(trimethylsilyloxy)]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-tri azine,

2.4.6-Tris(diphenyl)triazine,

2.4.6-Tris(terphenyl)triazine,

Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

Polysilicone-15,

1 , 1 -Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,

2.4-Bis[4-[5-(l-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl]phenylimino]-6-[(2-ethylhexyl)imino]-l,3,5- tri azine, and mixtures thereof. [00125] The particularly preferred organic screening agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Homosalate,

Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene, n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

2,4-Bis(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-

[(trimethylsilyloxy)]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-tri azine,

Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[00126] According to one preferred embodiment, the organic UV-screening agents are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, and mixtures thereof.

[00127] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of octocrylene. The term "free of octocrylene" is intended to mean a composition containing less than 1% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene. It has in fact been possible in the past to use octocrylene both as a sunscreen and also as a solvent for improving the solubility of other sunscreens, such as triazine derivatives, and thus to reduce the tackiness of compositions comprising such screening agents. However, consumers are expecting cosmetic compositions comprising sunscreens which have good sensoriality, which are non-tacky, but which are free of octocrylene.

[00128] The organic UV-screening agents can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional UV-screening agents

[00129] The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one inorganic UV-screening agent.

[00130] The inorganic UV-screening agents used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV-screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 pm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.

[00131] They can be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide or mixtures thereof.

[00132] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.

[00133] The metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

[00134] The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[00135] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated:

- with silica, such as the products Sunveil® from Ikeda, Sunsil Tin 50 from Sunjin Beauty Science, - with silica and iron oxide, such as the product Sunveil F® from Ikeda,

- with silica and alumina, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA® and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA from Tayca and Tioveil from Tioxide,

- with alumina, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55 (B)® and Tipaque TTO-55 (A)® from Ishihara and UVT 14/4 from Sachtleben Pigments,

- with alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z® and MT-01® from Tayca, the products Solaveil CT-10 W® and Solaveil CT 100® from Uniqema and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from Merck,

- with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT- 100 AQ® from Tayca,

- with alumina and aluminium laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S® from Tayca,

[00136] - with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide

MT 100 F® from Tayca,

- with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product BR 351® from Tayca,

- with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS®, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS® from Tayca,

- with silica, alumina and aluminium stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product STT-30-DS® from Titan Kogyo,

- with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product UV-Titan X 195® from Sachtleben Pigments,

- with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55 (S)® from Ishihara or UV Titan M 262® from Sachtleben Pigments,

- with triethanolamine, such as the product STT-65-S from Titan Kogyo,

- with stearic acid, such as the product Tipaque TTO-55 (C)® from Ishihara,

- with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W® from Tayca,

- TiO2 treated with octyltrimethyl silane, sold under the trade name T 805® by Degussa Silices, - TiCh treated with a poly dimethyl siloxane, sold under the trade name 70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3® by Cardre,

- anatase/rutile TiCh treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane, sold under the trade name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic® by Color Techniques,

- TiCb coated with triethylhexanoin, with aluminium stearate and with alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) by Croda,

- TiCb coated with aluminium stearate, with alumina and with silicone sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD) by Croda,

- TiCb coated with lauroyl lysine sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxyde CR 50,

- TiCb coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and with aluminium hydroxide sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50.

[00137] Mention may also be made of TiCb pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides, including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles can additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents, such as, for example, a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol fatty acid ester, such as Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated glycerol fatty acid esters. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiCb particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, for instance the product sold under the trade name Optisol TD50® by Croda.

[00138] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B®, by Degussa under the name P 25, by Wacker under the name Transparent titanium oxide PW®, by Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR®, by Tomen under the name ITS® and by Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ. [00139] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

- those sold under the name Z-Cote by Sunsmart;

- those sold under the name Nanox® by Elementis;

- those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025® by Nanophase Technologies.

[00140] The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

- those sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5® by Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);

- those sold under the name Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN® by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate);

- those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-30® and Daitopersion Zn-50® by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated cyclopolymethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane);

- those sold under the name NFD Ultrafine ZnO® by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl in dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane);

- those sold under the name SPD-Z1® by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);

- those sold under the name Escalol Z100® by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in the ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate/PVP-hexadecene copolymer/methicone mixture);

- those sold under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-10® by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);

- those sold under the name Nanox Gel TN® by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at a concentration of 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).

[00141] The uncoated cerium oxide pigments can, for example, be those sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide® by Rhone-Poulenc.

[00142] The uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002® (FE 45B®), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ® and Nanogard WCD 2006® (FE 45R®) or by Mitsubishi under the name TY-220®. [00143] The coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®, Nanogard WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345® and Nanogard FE 45 BL® or by BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide®.

[00144] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, especially of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by Ikeda under the name Sunveil A®, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261® sold by Sachtleben Pigments, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such as the product M 211® sold by Sachtleben Pigments.

[00145] According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.

When they are present in the composition in accordance with the invention, the mineral UV- screening agents are advantageously present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

[00146] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[00147] The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water- miscible organic solvents.

[00148] An aqueous phase which is suitable for the invention can comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.

[00149] The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for the invention comprise, in addition to the short-chain alcohols, diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2- propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[00150] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an amount of glycerol of less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, by weight of the total weight of the composition. [00151] According to a specific form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 20% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 30% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Oily phase

[00152] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one oily phase.

[00153] For the purposes of the invention, the term “oily phase” means a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and the fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

[00154] The term “oil” is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[00155] The oily phase may comprise, in addition to the lipophilic screening agent(s) and the fatty alcohol(s) according to the invention, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbonbased oil and/or one volatile and/or non-volatile silicone oil and/or one volatile and/or nonvolatile fluoro oil.

[00156] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-0 group.

[00157] The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may in particular contain one or more carboxyl, ester, ether, hydroxyl functions.

[00158] The term “fluoro oil” refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[00159] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10‘³ to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). [00160] The term “non-volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapour pressure of less than 10'³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[00161] Mention may notably be made, as non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, of

(i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or alternatively triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel;

(ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid petroleum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof;

(iv) synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R' > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2- ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by Stearinerie Dubois, isopropyl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Jolee 7739 by Oleon; alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12- C13 dialkyl tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; acetates;

(v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;

(vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

(vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; and mixtures thereof.

[00162] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyl dodecanol.

[00163] As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and especially of branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, such as Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[00164] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the Cognis patent applications WO 2007/068371 and WO 2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application W02008/155059 of Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97®, and also mixtures thereof.

[00165] Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by Shell, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[00166] The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which groups are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain and each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

[00167] Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned, for example, include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8>< 10'⁶ m²/s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl octy Itri sil oxane, hexamethyl di sil oxane, octamethy Itri sil oxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[00168] Mention may also be made of the volatile linear alkyltri siloxane oils having the formula below:

[Chem 8] where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which can be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

[00169] Mention may be made, among the oils of formula 8, of:

3 -butyl -1,1, 1,3, 5, 5, 5 -heptamethy Itri sil oxane,

3 -propyl- 1,1, 1,3, 5, 5, 5 -heptamethyltri siloxane, and

3 -ethyl -1,1, 1,3, 5, 5, 5 -heptamethyltri sil oxane, corresponding to the oils of formula 8 for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

[00170] Use may also be made of volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof.

[00171] An oily phase according to the invention can additionally comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.

[00172] Another fatty substance which can be present in the oily phase can, for example, be:

- a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

- a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, rice bran wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes;

- a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol);

- a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives;

- and mixtures thereof.

[00173] Preferentially, the overall oily phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferentially from 10% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[00174] The composition according to the invention comprises isopropyl myristate in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[00175] In one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one synthetic ester chosen from isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate and diisopropyl sebacate. Said at least one synthetic ester is then present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer

[00176] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer, different from the AMPS® copolymer described above.

[00177] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer.

[00178] The homopolymer may be crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, chosen especially from pentaerythrityl allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether and propylene allyl ether.

[00179] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer (INCI name: carbomer), or by 3 V-Sigma under the name Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L or Synthalen® M.

[00180] The crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, different from the AMPS® copolymer described above, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

AMPS® homopolymer (poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid))

[00181] The composition of the invention may also comprise at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer comprising 2-acrylamido-2 -methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) units, which is different from the AMPS® copolymer described above.

[00182] The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[00183] These are water-soluble, water-dispersible or water-swellable copolymers.

[00184] Preferably, the AMPS® homopolymers used in accordance with the invention can be partially or totally neutralized with an inorganic base (such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids such as arginine or lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized. In the present invention, the term “neutralized” is intended to mean polymers which have been totally or almost totally neutralized, that is to say at least 90% neutralized.

[00185] The AMPS® homopolymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to

[00186] 20 000 000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000, and more preferably from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g/mol.

[00187] When the homopolymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization. As crosslinking agents, mention may, for example, be made of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and/or of vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[00188] The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

[00189] In one particular embodiment, a preferred polymer of the present invention is poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), which is partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked, such as poly(ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate), also known under the trade namel Hostacerin AMPS®, and commercially available from the supplier Clariant.

[00190] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid).

[00191] The AMPS® homopolymer according to the invention is generally present in amounts of active material ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.8% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Acyl glutamic acid and salts thereof [00192] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates).

[00193] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) are chosen from acyl glutamic acids in which the acyl group comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, palmitoylglutamic acid, stearoylglutamic acid, behenoylglutamic acid, olivoylglutamic acid, cocoylglutamic acid, and the salts of these acids, especially the salts of alkali metals such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, the salts of alkaline-earth metals such as Mg, or the ammonium salts of said acids.

[00194] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) or a salt thereof are chosen from lauroylglutamic acids, cocoylglutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[00195] More preferentially, the acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[00196] Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by Cognis.

[00197] Mention may also be made of triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft CT12 by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 by Ajinomoto.

[00198] As acyl glutamic acid salt, mention may also be made of sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS 11 by Ajinomoto and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by Ajinomoto.

[00199] Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative, for instance the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 sold by Ajinomoto.

[00200] According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate), such as the product sold by Ajinomoto under the reference Amisoft HS 11 PF, is used. [00201] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the disodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: disodium stearoyl glutamate), such as the product sold by Ajinomoto under the reference Amisoft HS 21 P, is used.

[00202] The acyl glutamic acid(s) and salts thereof may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide)

[00203] According to one preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention can also comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide).

[00204] Those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 20 are preferably used. Mention may for example be made of the product PEG-8 stearate, which is sold under the trade name Myrj S8 SO by Croda, stearate 40 EO, stearate 50 EO, stearate 100 EO, laurate 20 EO, laurate 40 EO, distearate 150 EO.

[00205] In one preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention can comprise the product PEG- 100 stearate, sold under the trade name Myrj S 100 MBAL-PA by Croda.

[00206] The alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to percent by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

[00207] The composition according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from deodorant active agents, desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, moisturizers, calmatives, antioxidants, astringents, anti-ageing agents, antiwrinkle agents; softeners, antioxidants, stabilizers, vitamins, bactericides, preserving agents, dyes, fragrances or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application, and mixtures thereof.

[00208] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition(s). Presentation form

[00209] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to a person skilled in the art. They can be provided in particular in the form of a simple or complex (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) emulsion, such as a cream, a milk or a gel-cream.

[00210] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (invert emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[00211] In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes which can be used are of the paddle or propeller, rotor-stator and HPH type.

[00212] A person skilled in the art may select the appropriate presentation form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis of their general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, notably their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended application of the composition.

[00213] The composition according to the invention comprises a “physiologically acceptable medium”. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to mean a medium that is suitable for the topical administration of a composition, and that is compatible with all human keratin materials, such as the skin, the lips, the nails, the mucous membranes, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the scalp and/or the hair, or any other area of bodily skin.

[00214] According to the invention, a physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium without odour or unpleasant appearance and which is entirely compatible with the topical administration route.

[00215] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is suitable for topical administration, that is to say for administration by application at the surface of the keratin material under consideration, such as the skin under consideration.

[00216] The compositions according to the invention are preferentially cosmetic compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin.

[00217] These compositions are in particular intended for topical application to the face and/or the body. [00218] In particular, the composition is applied to the area of the face, in particular the T area (forehead, nose, cheeks and chin), in particular the forehead and the nose.

[00219] In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention has a pH of between 5 and 8, preferably of between 5.5 and 7.

[00220] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention having a pH of between 5 and 8, preferably having a pH of between 5.5 and 7, have improved stability, in particular with regard to the chemical ingredients present in said compositions.

[00221] Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[00222] Another subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

[00223] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.

Examples

[00224] In the examples, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius and corresponds to ambient temperature (20-25°C), unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure at sea level, unless otherwise indicated. Moreover, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition.

[00225] The starting materials of phase A (lipophilic UV-screening agents, fatty alcohols and acids, hydrophobic surfactants, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, other oils, hydrophobic active agents and hydrophobic preserving agents, and antioxidants) are added to the main tank and heated between 65 and 80°C until total homogenization of the phase is obtained.

[00226] The starting materials of phase B (21% water, 3% glycerol, dyes, hydrophilic active agents, glycols, chelating agent, hydrophilic preserving agents, hydrophilic UV- screening agents) are added to the main tank and homogenized. The phase is kept at a temperature of between 65 and 80°C.

[00227] Phase B is introduced into phase A at a temperature of between 65 and 80°C under a rotor/stator. [00228] Phase C containing the polymers and phase D containing the silicones are then successively added.

Verification of the sensory and cosmetic properties:

[00229] For each of the following compositions, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol.

[00230] The cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of experts trained in the description of care products. The sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are packaged in jars. Within one and the same session, the samples are presented in random order to each panel member. Said panel members evaluate first the uptake in the hand and the suppleness in the jar (= pick-up). They then place a drop of product (0.05 ml) on the back of the hand and evaluate the glidance on application and then the transformation of the texture to oil by performing 15 swirling motions in 15 seconds with the index finger and the middle finger. The experts then evaluate the comfort which is defined by the greasy film (more or less oily or waxy on the skin) and the softness after a few seconds of penetration.

[00231] The descriptors are evaluated on a scale graded from 1 to 5: 1 = not, 2 = barely, 3 = moderately, 4 = fairly, 5 = very.

[00232] The sensory parameters evaluated for the compositions tested are the following:

[00233] - “Pick-up”: this parameter makes it possible to evaluate the supple/runny nature of the composition (1) or thick/springy nature (5) when taken up from the jar. For the compositions according to the invention, a firmness on uptake which is balanced (neither too supple/runny, nor too thick/springy) is expected.

[00234] - Spreading: this property is measured through the following 2 parameters: glidance on application and transformation to oil. As regards the glidance on application, it goes from the least glidance (1) to the most glidance (5). For the compositions according to the invention, the glidance is expected to be as strong as possible. As regards the transformation to oil, the latter goes from a texture which is not at all transformative (termed “continuous”) (1) to a high transformation to oil (5). For the compositions according to invention, they are not expected to have very transformative textures.

[00235] - The “skin finish”: this property is measured through the following 2 parameters: the greasy (oily/waxy) nature and the softness (sticky/soft). As regards the greasy nature, it goes from oily (1) to waxy (5). For the compositions according to the invention, the greasy nature is expected to be as oily as possible so as to avoid a rough skin finish. As regards the softness, it goes from sticky (1), which confers tackiness, to soft (5). For the compositions according to the invention, the softness is expected to be as non-sticky as possible (and therefore the composition is expected to be as non-tacky as possible after spreading).

[00236] The results obtained for the various compositions tested are presented in Table 2 below. Only compositions 1 and 4 according to the invention make it possible to obtain the expected pick-up, spreading and skin finish.

[Table 1]

[Table 2]

Claims

[Claim 1] Cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable support: a) at least one aqueous phase, b) at least one oily phase, c) at least one copolymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer and at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group, d) at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, e) at least one UV-screening agent, and f) isopropyl myristate.

[Claim 2] Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the AMPS® copolymer(s) are crosslinked by a crosslinking agent, preferably trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[Claim 3] Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the 2-acrylamido-2 -methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) are totally salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt.

[Claim 4] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (II): in which Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-Cg alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y denotes O or NH; R2 denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.

[Claim 5] Composition according to Claim 4, characterized in that, in formula (II), Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group Ri represents a methyl, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25.

[Claim 6] Composition according to either one of Claims 4 and 5, characterized in that the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group of formula (II) is ethoxylated (25EO) stearyl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula (II) in which the group Ri represents a methyl, the group Y denotes O, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising 18 carbon atoms and x is equal to 25.

[Claim 7] Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the AMPS® copolymer is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2 -methylpropane sulfonic acid which is preferably totally salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt, and of ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25EO).

[Claim 8] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the AMPS® copolymer(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 9] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) below: in which:

- Ri denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 8 to 22, and even more preferentially from 12 to 20;

- the group G is a saccharide residue;

- a is a number ranging from 1 to 10.

[Claim 10] Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the saccharide residue is chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose, starch, and mixtures thereof, preferably glucose.

[Claim 11] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) are chosen from the arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside mixture, the cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside mixture, and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 12] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one ester of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol chosen from isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate and diisopropyl sebacate.

[Claim 13] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer.

[Claim 14] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) homopolymer.

[Claim 15] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid chosen from acyl glutamic acids in which the acyl group comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, palmitoylglutamic acid, stearoylglutamic acid, behenoylglutamic acid, olivoylglutamic acid, cocoylglutamic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 16] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one the alkyl and polyalkyl esters of polyethylene oxide) having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 2 to 200.

[Claim 17] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one organic UV-screening agent chosen from ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl triazone, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 18] Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in which a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 17 is applied to said keratin materials.

[Claim 19] Use of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.