EP4442151B1 - Schmuckstück mit schwenkbarem dekor - Google Patents

Schmuckstück mit schwenkbarem dekor

Info

Publication number
EP4442151B1
EP4442151B1 EP24165205.6A EP24165205A EP4442151B1 EP 4442151 B1 EP4442151 B1 EP 4442151B1 EP 24165205 A EP24165205 A EP 24165205A EP 4442151 B1 EP4442151 B1 EP 4442151B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
insert
item
decoration
decorative element
screw
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP24165205.6A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP4442151A1 (de
Inventor
Reuben Dahan
Christophe DECOUPES
Lucie LE BRIS
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Richemont International SA
Original Assignee
Richemont International SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Richemont International SA filed Critical Richemont International SA
Publication of EP4442151A1 publication Critical patent/EP4442151A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP4442151B1 publication Critical patent/EP4442151B1/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A44C17/0258Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations rotatably or pivotably arranged
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C15/00Other forms of jewellery
    • A44C15/0025Reversible or double face jewellery
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/0007Bracelets specially adapted for other functions or with means for attaching other articles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C9/00Finger-rings
    • A44C9/0053Finger-rings having special functions

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an article of jewelry, for example a ring or a pendant, comprising a body and a decoration pivotally mounted on the body.
  • a piece of jewelry such as a ring, may include a body, typically in the form of a frame or a ring, and a setting attached to the body.
  • the setting typically includes ornamentation such as a gemstone or a motif.
  • the setting is attached to the body, which is in the form of a ring into which the wearer inserts their finger to wear the ring.
  • the user benefits from a "two-in-one" aspect, allowing him to modify the appearance of the jewelry item without having to change it.
  • the decoration is for example positioned at 45° or 90° relative to the initial position of the decoration.
  • the document CN 203 762 439 describes an article of jewelry comprising a decoration that can be rotated relative to the body of the article.
  • the document CN 204 336 040 describes a jewelry ring featuring a pivoting design.
  • the document CH 717 457 describes an article of jewelry comprising a ring and spherical elements bearing decorations, the spherical elements being able to be rotated relative to the ring.
  • the document US 2003/172673 describes a jewelry ring comprising at least one support for a precious stone decoration, the support being capable of being set in motion.
  • This indexing can be problematic when the user wants to place the decoration in a position that does not correspond to any of the indexing positions. This can happen, for example, when taking pictures of the jewelry item, whether worn or not.
  • a wear-resistant and anti-deformation material is capable of sliding without altering the body of the article and the decoration through wear or plastic deformation.
  • the insert is made of a thermoplastic or elastomeric polymeric material or thermoplastic elastomer (e.g., rubber), and the decoration of the jewelry item is clamped onto the insert, the clamping being adjusted to induce a minimum pivoting torque to be applied to the decoration or the article body to pivot said decoration around the insert.
  • a thermoplastic or elastomeric polymeric material or thermoplastic elastomer e.g., rubber
  • the term "with clamping" means that the decoration is mounted so as to exert pressure on the insert, while remaining mobile in rotation around the latter if a torque greater than the minimum pivoting torque is applied to the decoration or to the article body.
  • the decoration is in direct contact with the insert. At rest, when the decoration is not mechanically stressed, i.e. when no force or torque is applied to the decoration, it remains immobile due to friction between its surface and a corresponding surface of the insert. This balance is ensured by a predetermined adjustment between the diameter of the insert and that of the decoration
  • the decoration remains fixed as long as it is at rest or as long as a torque is applied to it (or to the body of the article) which is less than the minimum pivoting torque to be applied to the decoration to make it pivot, also called "pivoting torque".
  • the insert When a torque greater than or equal to the pivoting torque is applied to the decoration (or to the article body), it pivots around the insert.
  • the insert thus has a function as a mechanical axis of rotation of the decoration.
  • the surfaces of the decoration and the insert rub against each other, generating a friction force which opposes the rotation of the decoration, and tends to keep it in a fixed position. From then on, the rotation of the decoration continues as long as the minimum pivoting torque is maintained, then the decoration stops when the torque decreases and becomes lower than the minimum pivoting torque.
  • the decoration can therefore take any rotational position relative to the body of the article. This frees us from the predetermined indexing positions of state-of-the-art jewelry articles.
  • the jewelry item according to the invention may in particular be a ring, a pendant, a bracelet, an earring, or a brooch.
  • the item according to the invention therefore allows the user to position the decoration in the angular position he wishes, by simple manual action on the decoration or on the body of the item. He can thus, for example, position the decoration so that it is perfectly perpendicular to his chest, in the case of a pendant, or to his phalanx, in the case of a ring, in order to feel no discomfort.
  • the minimum pivoting torque of the decor can be adjusted by tightening a screw, which, together with the insert, forms an adjustment system.
  • Tightening the screw causes the insert to deform in a substantially radial direction, i.e. substantially perpendicular to the screw body. As it deforms, the insert is pressed against the decoration, which increases the minimum pivoting torque. Indeed, the more the screw is tightened, the more the insert deforms and increases its outer diameter, the tighter the fit between the decoration and the insert, the greater the friction forces, and the greater the minimum pivoting torque. Conversely, the less the screw is tightened, the less the insert deforms, the more the fit between the decoration and the insert is without play or tightening, the lower the friction forces, and the greater the minimum pivoting torque.
  • deformable relating to the insert corresponds to a deformation of the insert of at least the order of a hundredth of a millimeter up to the order of a millimeter.
  • the minimum pivoting torque is set by the manufacturer when the ring is mounted.
  • provision can be made for the minimum pivoting torque to be adjusted by the user, so that they can adapt it to their strength or the conditions of use of the item.
  • the adjustment system is positioned in an attachment region between the decoration and the article body. If there are multiple attachment regions, it is possible to provide multiple adjustment systems, including one adjustment system in each attachment region.
  • the invention relates to an item of jewelry, which may be, for example, a ring, a pendant, a bracelet, an earring, a brooch, or any other item of jewelry comprising a decoration that can rotate relative to an item body.
  • FIG. 1 An embodiment of such a jewelry item according to the invention, wherein the item is a jewelry ring, is illustrated in detail in the figures 1 to 4 .
  • the various embodiments and characteristics relating to this ring are also suitable for other types of jewelry items, including pendants, bracelets, earrings, and brooches.
  • the ring 1 comprises a ring body 2 and a decoration 3 capable of pivoting along a geometric axis 4 relative to the ring body by applying a torque to the decoration or to the ring body.
  • Decoration 3 is typically made of a precious or semi-precious metal, or an alloy of precious metals regularly used in the luxury industry.
  • the decoration is made of a material chosen from gold and its alloys, silver and its alloys, or platinum and its alloys.
  • the decoration 3 is driven with little tightening onto the insert 14.
  • the tightening is chosen and adjusted so as to allow the decoration 3 to pivot relative to the insert 14 only when a torque greater than a minimum pivoting torque is applied to the decoration or to the article body.
  • the insert 14 thus makes it possible to maintain or return the decoration 3 to a fixed position when the decoration is not mechanically stressed or when a torque less than the minimum pivoting torque is applied to it, while allowing the decoration 3 to pivot when a force greater than or equal to the minimum pivoting torque is applied to the decoration.
  • the ring 1 further comprises an adjustment system 12 adapted to adjust the minimum pivoting torque to be applied to the decoration 3 (or to the ring body 2) to pivot it around the insert 14.
  • the adjustment system 12 comprises at least one insert 14 as described previously, and at least one screw 13.
  • the adjustment system 12 comprises two screws 13 and two inserts 14.
  • the attachment region A circled on the Figure 2 between the end of the left branch of the ring body 2 and one end (one of the lobes) of the decoration 3.
  • the screw 13 extends along the axis 4. It comprises a screw body 15 provided with a thread, housed in an orifice 17 provided in the ring body 2, and a screw head 16 housed in the decoration 3, more precisely in a housing 18 provided in one end of the decoration 3.
  • the housing 18 is extended by an orifice 19, illustrated in the Figure 3 , which opens onto the outside of the decoration 3, and which is crossed by a portion of the screw body 15.
  • the surface 20 which borders the orifice 19 is arranged at a distance from and opposite the screw body 15, a space 21 being provided between said surface 20 and said screw body 15.
  • the screw 13 is therefore fixed relative to the ring body 2.
  • the decoration 3 is mobile in rotation around the screw 13.
  • the screw 13 cooperates with the insert 14 to adjust the minimum pivoting torque to be applied to the decoration 3 to allow or continue the rotation of said decoration. This adjustment of the minimum pivoting torque, carried out by tightening or loosening the screw 13, will be described in more detail later in this text.
  • the insert 14 is positioned in the space 21 between the screw body 15 and the surface 20 which borders the orifice 19 of the decoration 3.
  • the insert 14 is a part of revolution provided with a bore 22 crossed by the screw body 15, and fitted onto said screw body 15.
  • the insert 14 may comprise a shoulder 27, located between the decoration 3 and the ring body 2, capable of serving as a support surface at the end of the decoration 3, to separate the decoration 3 and the ring body 2. This avoids any contact between the decoration 3 and the ring body 2, and therefore any wear of the parts likely to alter the aesthetics of the jewelry item but also the movement of the pivoting decoration. This is particularly important when precious metals are used in the design of these pieces.
  • the insert 14 used as an element of the adjustment system 12 is deformable. It is preferably made of a thermoplastic polymer material, more preferably chosen from polyoxymethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene, and their mixtures.
  • the thermoplastic polymers that can be used include in particular thermoplastic elastomers (TPE), for example from the rubber family.
  • the insert 14 is engaged with the decoration 3, that is to say that they are in close contact via their respective surface, namely the external surface 23 of the insert and the surface 20 which borders the orifice 19 of the decoration 3.
  • This close contact opposes the rotation of the decoration 3, by generating a resistance to pivoting, and therefore a friction force, whether the decoration is mobile or immobile.
  • the decoration 3 only pivots when a torque greater than or equal to the minimum pivoting torque is applied to it, typically by manual action of the user, for example by applying his thumb against the back of one end of the decoration and his index finger against the front of an opposite end of the decoration. Indeed, when a torque less than the minimum pivoting torque is applied to the decoration, the friction force prevents the rotation of the decoration. When a torque at least equal to the minimum pivoting torque is applied to the decoration, this torque is sufficient to overcome the friction force and the decoration pivots. It continues to pivot as long as the applied torque overcomes the friction force.
  • the ring body 2 advantageously has an elasticity allowing the insert 14, in particular the shoulder 27 of the insert, to be pressed against the decoration 3.
  • This elasticity may be intrinsic to the material of the ring body 2, and/or obtained by heat treatment known to those skilled in the art.
  • the minimum pivoting torque can be modified by changing the combination of materials of the insert 14 and the decoration 3.
  • a gold (Au) decoration and a polyoxymethylene insert 14 can be chosen, or a platinum (Pt) decoration and a polyoxymethylene insert 14, so as to obtain a different coefficient of friction between the parts.
  • the adjustment system 12 also comprises at least one deformable washer 28, located between the screw 13 and the decoration 3, which separates the screw 13 and the decoration 3.
  • the washer 28 makes it possible, depending on the shape of the screw head 16 and/or depending on the use of the ring 1 when the decoration 3 is rotated, to avoid any metal-metal contact between the screw 13 and the decoration 3.
  • the 12 adjustment system works as follows.
  • the screw 13 is adjusted so as to obtain the desired minimum pivoting torque. This step is typically carried out by the manufacturer during assembly of the ring. It is possible to provide embodiments of the invention in which the screw can also be operated by the user himself.
  • the screw head 16 moves towards the insert 14, and compresses the latter against the ring body 2.
  • the insert 14 deforms radially (direction substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal direction), which creates a radial bulge of the insert pressing against the surface 20 which borders the orifice 19 of the decoration 3.
  • the screw head 16 moves, decompressing the insert 14, and the latter deforms in the direction of its nominal shape.
  • the insert 14 releases radially, which reduces the radial bulge of the insert, thus reducing the pressure of the insert against the surface 20 which borders the orifice 19 of the decoration 3.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (11)

  1. Schmuckstück (1) mit einem Schmuckstückkörper (2), einem Dekor (3), das durch Aufbringen eines Drehmoments in Bezug auf den Schmuckstückkörper (2) schwenkar ist, wobei das Schmuckstück (1) einen Einsatz (14) umfasst, der zwischen dem Schmuckstückkörper (2) und dem Dekor (3) positioniert ist, wobei das Dekor (3) auf dem Einsatz (14) montiert und relativ zu diesem schwenkbar ist, wobei der Schmuckstückkörper (2) und das Dekor (3) aus einem Material bestehen, das aus Gold und seinen Legierungen, Silber und seinen Legierungen und Platin und seinen Legierungen ausgewählt ist, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Einsatz (14) aus einem verschleißfesten und verformungsbeständigen Material des Schmuckstückkörpers (2) und des Dekors (3) besteht.
  2. Schmuckstück (1) nach Anspruch 1, wobei der Einsatz (14) aus thermoplastischem Polymermaterial oder Elastomer oder thermoplastischem Elastomer besteht, und das Dekor (3) mit Festklemmung auf dem Einsatz (14) montiert ist, wobei die Festklemmung so eingestellt ist, dass ein minimales Schwenkdrehmoment auf das Dekor (3) oder auf den Schmuckstückkörper (2) ausgeübt wird, um das Dekor (3) relativ zum Einsatz (14) zu verschwenken.
  3. Schmuckstück (1) nach Anspruch 2, mit mindestens einem Einstellsystem (12), das zum Einstellen des minimalen Schwenkdrehmoments angepasst ist, wobei das mindestens eine Einstellsystem (12) umfasst: - den Einsatz (14), der außerdem mit einer Bohrung versehen ist, - eine Schraube (13), die sich entlang der Bohrung des Einsatzes (14) erstreckt, versehen mit einem Schraubenkörper (15), der im Schmuckstückkörper (2) untergebracht ist und die Bohrung des Einsatzes durchquert, und vorteilhafterweise mit einem Schraubenkopf (16), wobei der Einsatz (14) so ausgebildet ist, dass er sich beim Anziehen oder Lösen der Schraube (13) radial verformen kann, um das minimale Schwenkdrehmoment zu verändern.
  4. Schmuckstück (1) nach Anspruch 3, wobei das Anziehen der Schraube (13) den Außendurchmesser des Einsatzes (14) vergrößert und damit das minimale Schwenkdrehmoment erhöht, und entsprechend das Lösen der Schraube den Außendurchmesser des Einsatzes (14) verringert und damit das minimale Schwenkdrehmoment verringert.
  5. Schmuckstück (1) nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, wobei der Einsatz (14) die Form eines vorzugsweise zylindrischen Drehkörpers aufweist, der sich entlang einer geometrischen Achse (4) erstreckt, wobei das Dekor (3) auf dem Einsatz (14) montiert ist und um die geometrische Achse (4) schwenkbar ist.
  6. Schmuckstück (1) nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, wobei der Einsatz (14) die Form eines vorzugsweise zylindrischen Drehkörpers aufweist, der eine zwischen dem Dekor (3) und dem Schmuckstückkörper (2) angeordnete Schulter (27) umfasst, die als Auflagefläche für das Dekor (3) dienen kann, um den Schmuckstückkörper (2) und das Dekor (3) voneinander zu trennen.
  7. Schmuckstück (1) nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche in Kombination mit Anspruch 3, wobei das Einstellsystem (12) außerdem mindestens eine Unterlegscheibe (28) umfasst, die zwischen der Schraube (13) und dem Dekor (3) angeordnet ist und die Schraube (13) und das Dekor (3) voneinander trennt.
  8. Schmuckstück (1) nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, wobei das Material des Einsatzes (14) aus Polyoxymethylen, Polytetrafluorethylen und deren Mischungen ausgewählt ist.
  9. Schmuckstück (1) nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, wobei das Schmuckstück (1) kein System zur Festlegung der Position des Dekors (3) in Bezug auf den Schmuckstückkörper (2) aufweist.
  10. Schmuckstück (1) nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, wobei das Schmuckstück ein Ring, ein Anhänger, ein Armband, ein Ohrring oder eine Brosche ist.
  11. Schmuckstück (1) nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche in Kombination mit Anspruch 3, wobei das Schmuckstück zwei Einstellsysteme (12) umfasst, die jeweils in einem Befestigungsbereich des Dekors (3) mit dem Schmuckstückkörper (2) positioniert sind.
EP24165205.6A 2023-03-31 2024-03-21 Schmuckstück mit schwenkbarem dekor Active EP4442151B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2303220A FR3147077A1 (fr) 2023-03-31 2023-03-31 Article de joaillerie a décor pivotant

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4442151A1 EP4442151A1 (de) 2024-10-09
EP4442151B1 true EP4442151B1 (de) 2025-07-16

Family

ID=86764447

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP24165205.6A Active EP4442151B1 (de) 2023-03-31 2024-03-21 Schmuckstück mit schwenkbarem dekor

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP4442151B1 (de)
FR (1) FR3147077A1 (de)

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1553198A (en) 1924-11-22 1925-09-08 Stern Henry Jewelry
FR2115669A5 (de) 1970-11-27 1972-07-07 Franck Sa
US5787731A (en) 1996-11-19 1998-08-04 Ebara; Isao Personal ornament
EA007216B1 (ru) * 2002-03-15 2006-08-25 Тосихико Кимура Индивидуальное украшение
CN203762439U (zh) * 2013-12-26 2014-08-13 深圳市泰源福珠宝有限公司 一种首饰
CN204336040U (zh) * 2014-08-27 2015-05-20 深圳市泰源福珠宝有限公司 一种戒指
CH717457B1 (fr) * 2020-05-27 2023-03-31 Richemont Int Sa Article de joaillerie.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3147077A1 (fr) 2024-10-04
EP4442151A1 (de) 2024-10-09

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