EP4339342B1 - Textilteil, verfahren zur herstellung eines textilteils und kleidungsstück mit einem solchen textilteil und verfahren zur herstellung - Google Patents

Textilteil, verfahren zur herstellung eines textilteils und kleidungsstück mit einem solchen textilteil und verfahren zur herstellung

Info

Publication number
EP4339342B1
EP4339342B1 EP23184298.0A EP23184298A EP4339342B1 EP 4339342 B1 EP4339342 B1 EP 4339342B1 EP 23184298 A EP23184298 A EP 23184298A EP 4339342 B1 EP4339342 B1 EP 4339342B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarns
yarn
sheath
textile part
textile
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP23184298.0A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP4339342A1 (de
EP4339342C0 (de
Inventor
Gilles Reguillon
Sylvain BOSSIS
Denis Coulaux
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Chamatex
Original Assignee
Chamatex
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Chamatex filed Critical Chamatex
Publication of EP4339342A1 publication Critical patent/EP4339342A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP4339342C0 publication Critical patent/EP4339342C0/de
Publication of EP4339342B1 publication Critical patent/EP4339342B1/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D03D1/0035—Protective fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D03D1/0035—Protective fabrics
    • D03D1/007—UV radiation protecting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/242—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads inorganic, e.g. basalt
    • D03D15/267—Glass
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/242—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads inorganic, e.g. basalt
    • D03D15/275—Carbon fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/513—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads heat-resistant or fireproof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D10B2331/021—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides aromatic polyamides, e.g. aramides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/22—Physical properties protective against sunlight or UV radiation
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a textile piece, a garment comprising a textile piece, and a method of manufacturing a textile piece.
  • the leather jacket was replaced by a jacket made from technical fibers such as meta-aramid or para-aramid fibers.
  • the change in material allowed for a significant reduction in the jacket's weight.
  • this new jacket configuration is much more difficult to maintain and that it exhibits accelerated aging.
  • a significant decrease in performance was observed with each washing operation.
  • Para-aramid fibers degrade significantly with humidity, which leads to a drop in the jacket's performance.
  • para-aramid fibers have poor resistance to UV radiation, which requires protection when working outdoors.
  • para-aramid fibers degrade rapidly when subjected to abrasion and humidity.
  • the document FR2604193 discloses a composite yarn for making a textile product by knitting or weaving, in particular technical gloves.
  • the composite yarn comprises a core made from a synthetic or natural material coated with a sheath made from an elastomeric material.
  • the core may be a cotton-based yarn, a nylon-based yarn or a glass-based cord.
  • the sheath may be silicone-based or polyurethane-based.
  • the document US5224363 discloses a garment and a method of making a garment.
  • a strand has a core formed of a cut-resistant material and is covered by a sheath forming a fluid-impermeable coating.
  • the coating may be vinyl or polyurethane.
  • the core may be Kevlar, aramid, or stainless steel.
  • the strands are knitted to form a garment.
  • the document US2017/0340038 discloses a protective fabric resistant to cuts and/or abrasion and slashes and a lightweight knitted garment using such a fabric.
  • the sheath of the yarn used may comprise aramid, high molecular weight polyethylene or glass fibers.
  • the core may be coated with a polyurethane sheath.
  • An object of the invention is to provide a textile part whose mechanical performance is better preserved over time and preferably following a multitude of washes with water.
  • the invention also relates to a garment whose durability over time is improved.
  • the garment comprises a textile piece according to any one of the preceding configurations.
  • the garment is a fire-resistant garment.
  • the invention also relates to a manufacturing method that makes it possible to simply manufacture a textile piece that is more resistant over time.
  • a textile piece 1 is formed by a plurality of interwoven threads 2.
  • the textile piece 1 is a fabric, that is to say obtained by
  • the textile piece 1 may be a knit, i.e. obtained by knitting. In another configuration outside the invention, the textile piece 1 may be a non-woven, for example obtained by braiding or by any other suitable technique.
  • the plurality of yarns 2 comprises first yarns 2a and possibly additional yarns 2b.
  • the first yarns 2a provide the desired mechanical and preferably thermomechanical performance.
  • thermomechanical we mean the provision of mechanical performance at high temperature, for example greater than 50°C, preferably greater than 100°C and more preferably greater than 150°C.
  • the textile piece 1 can form all or part of a garment 3 as illustrated in Figure 5 .
  • the garment 3 is preferably personal protective equipment and preferably a garment that meets the EN11612 standard and/or the EN469 standard.
  • the garment 3 is advantageously a flame protection suit, i.e. a “fire suit”, for example a firefighter’s intervention suit to extinguish a fire.
  • the garment may be a jacket or trousers.
  • the textile piece 1 is formed solely by first threads 2a.
  • the textile piece 1 is formed by first threads 2a and at least one additional thread 2b, preferably several additional threads 2b that are identical or different from each other.
  • Each first yarn 2a has a core 4 made of a first material and a sheath 5 made of a second material different from the first material.
  • the first material is a para-aramid, a carbon fiber or a glass fiber.
  • the first material is a para-aramid.
  • the second material forms the sheath 5, i.e. a protective layer around the core 4.
  • the sheath 5 is impermeable to water so as to reduce or even prevent water from coming into contact with the core 4 during multiple washings of the textile piece.
  • the sheath 5 also forms a barrier to ultraviolet radiation so as to reduce the aging of the core 4 made of the first material and in particular para-aramid.
  • the sheath 5 blocks 100% of the UV radiation emitted. for example for radiation equal to 250mW/m 2 , preferably equal to 350mW/m 2 .
  • the sheath 5 blocks at least 80% of the UV radiation emitted.
  • the core 4 of the first material provides the mechanical performance of the first yarn 2a, for example its breaking strength in the longitudinal direction of the first yarn 2a, i.e. in the direction of greatest dimension.
  • the first material has the highest breaking strength value in the longitudinal direction above 50°C, preferably above 100°C and advantageously above 150°C compared to the sheath and preferably compared to the other materials forming the textile part.
  • the core 4 also provides the characteristics relating to heat resistance according to the ISO17493 standard. It is advantageous for the core 4 to be formed from the material which has the highest heat resistance value of the textile piece. It is advantageous to choose a core 4 as the first material whose count is between 110dTex and 8250dTex and in particular para-aramid.
  • the textile piece 1 can be formed by different first yarns 2a whose count is included in the previous range. The choice of count is made according to the needs to be achieved.
  • the interlacing of the first threads 2a with other threads 2b and preferably the interlacing of the first threads 2a with each other makes it possible to define the piercing resistance of the textile piece 1 or the punching resistance.
  • the type of interlacing as well as the tension in the first thread 2a during the interlacing step makes it possible to define the piercing resistance of the textile piece 1.
  • the sheath 5 forms a shell around the core 4 so as to reduce the aging of the core 4.
  • the shell is a flexible shell to maintain the flexible character of the textile.
  • the sheath 5 forms a specific flexible shell around the core 4.
  • the sheath 5 of a first yarn 2a never forms the sheath 5 of an adjacent first yarn.
  • Two adjacent sheaths 5 are distinct.
  • the core 4 of a first yarn 2a is protected independently of the core of the first adjacent wire 2a by the sheath 5.
  • the adjacent wires are intertwined with each other and define empty areas.
  • This configuration is different from a coating layer in the sheath material 5 and which continuously connects several adjacent yarns.
  • a textile without a coating layer the sheath 5 of each first yarn 2a is spaced from the sheath of the adjacent yarns (first yarns 2a or other yarns 2b) by a void area.
  • the use of a textile in which the sheath 5 of each first yarn 2a is spaced from the sheath of the yarns (first yarn 2a and second yarn 2b) adjacent by a void area is particularly advantageous because it makes it possible to form a material with high breathability.
  • Such a configuration makes it possible to form a fabric whose air permeability is greater than 300L/m 2 /s at 200Pa, or even 700L/m 2 /s at 200Pa.
  • the air permeability measurement is carried out in accordance with ISO9237. It is particularly advantageous to form a textile part 1 whose air permeability is between 300L/m 2 /s and 1200L/m 2 /s at 200Pa.
  • a thin coating layer may be possible in addition to the sheath 5.
  • the coating layer is a layer of a more flexible material than the second material forming the sheath 5.
  • the layer is more flexible than the second material so as not to degrade the flexibility of the textile.
  • the use of a continuous coating layer makes it possible to form a waterproof and airtight area. Water permeability is preferably measured according to ISO 9237 and air permeability is preferably measured according to EN20811.
  • first threads 2a are each covered by a sheath 5 distinct from each adjacent thread (in particular the first threads 2a), for an identical or substantially identical thickness of the same second material.
  • This configuration is advantageous compared to a coating layer common to several threads having a core made of the first material and in particular para-aramid, the coating layer having a thickness identical to the sheath and being made of this same material.
  • the configuration is advantageous because it has better abrasion resistance.
  • the sheath 5 better resistant to abrasion, it provides the protective characteristics of the core 4 for longer for washing operations and against attacks from ultraviolet radiation.
  • the replacement of the coating layer by the sheath 5 makes it possible to increase the service life of the cores 4 in the first material.
  • a sheath 5 independently protecting each core 4 and in a configuration without a coating layer also makes it possible to form a fabric with better breathability.
  • Breathability can be represented by the quantity of air that can pass through a given surface of textile per unit of time.
  • the use of a textile comprising the first yarns 2a makes it possible to form a fabric having a breathability greater than or equal to 200L/m 2 /s at 200Pa.
  • the sheath 5 has a breaking strength along the longitudinal axis which is lower than the breaking strength of the core 4. It is advantageous for the sheath 5 to have a yield strength which is higher than that of the core 4, preferably at least 50% higher. Preferably, the yield strength of the sheath 5 is 500 times higher than that of the core 4.
  • the sheath 5 is made of a material which has no glass transition temperature in a range between -20°C and 210°C in order to avoid a significant modification of the mechanical behavior when the temperature changes in this range. It is advantageous for the material of the sheath 5 to be between 3 and 10 MPa so as to have an interesting behavior for a garment.
  • the elongation at break of the sheath 5 is also advantageous for the elongation at break of the sheath 5 to be between 500% and 1500% in order to better adapt to the needs of a garment and in particular to the needs of a fire protection suit. It is also preferable for the material forming the sheath 5 to have a degradation temperature greater than 210°C and more preferably greater than 230°C. The degradation temperature may be the melting temperature. It is also preferable for the material of the sheath 5 not to be brittle at a temperature equal to -20°C so as to allow its use in a garment over a wide range of operating temperatures.
  • the sheath 5 of a first yarn 2a is distinct from the sheath 5 of an adjacent first yarn 2a or from the sheath of an adjacent yarn 2b.
  • the core and the sheath may be made of identical or different materials.
  • Such a configuration makes it possible to form a porous textile piece 1.
  • the sheath 5 of a first yarn 2a is mechanically connected to the sheath 5 of an adjacent first yarn 2a or to the sheath of an adjacent yarn 2b by means of a layer which is more flexible than the second material forming the sheath 5.
  • the flexibility of the layer makes it possible to have a textile piece 1 whose flexibility provided by the interlacing is not or is little modified by the addition of the layer.
  • the flexibility of the layer will result in rapid wear so that the layer is incapable of providing good sealing over time and/or good protection against UV radiation.
  • the material forming the layer may also have a melting temperature which is lower than the melting temperature of the sheath 5.
  • the second material forming the sheath 5 is preferably chosen from polyurethane-ether, polyurethane-ester, polyurethane polyacrylate, silicone, a polyolefin, a thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) or a mixture thereof. These materials are particularly advantageous for forming a sheath 5 which is effective in blocking water as well as UV radiation with a low thickness which makes it possible not to modify the mechanical behavior of the core 4 too much.
  • a flame retardant be used in the sheath 5. It is also possible to use a second material which contains a flame-retardant polymer, preferably at least 5% by weight. Preferably, the flame retardant is an organophosphorus compound. It is also possible to use a flame-retardant elastomer. It is then advantageous to provide a sheath 5 whose titer is between 30dTex and 3000dTex.
  • one or more compounds to the second material so as to improve its technical characteristics, for example by adding one or more polymer materials, one or more elastomers, polymer particles, mineral particles or even metal particles. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve the abrasion resistance of the sheath. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve the blocking power of UV radiation. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve the resistance to ozone. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve infrared camouflage. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve water repellency. It is possible to add a compound intended to reduce the wicking effect. It is possible to add a compound intended to improve the resistance and/or repulsion to chemicals.
  • the textile piece 1 is configured so that the sheath 5 of each first yarn 2a can be movable relative to the adjacent yarn of the textile piece 1.
  • the mobility can be observed along the longitudinal axis of the first yarn 2a as well as perpendicular to the longitudinal axis.
  • the sheath 5 does not stick to the adjacent yarn 2.
  • the deformation of the yarns 2 relative to each other makes it possible to provide greater flexibility of the textile piece 1 compared to the configurations of the prior art.
  • the textile piece 1 is devoid of a coating layer that continuously connects several adjacent first yarns.
  • the formation of a porous textile piece 1 is advantageous because it allows at least one air flow to pass through the two opposite faces of the textile piece 1.
  • the textile piece 1 When the textile piece 1 is devoid of a coating layer, it is possible to choose an interlacing configuration which makes it more or less easy for air to circulate through the textile piece 1. It is also possible to choose an interlacing configuration which allows or prohibits the passage of moisture through the textile piece 1.
  • the interlacing configuration can be defined by the weave pattern as well as the number of threads 2 per unit area. For a given diameter of threads 2, the greater the number of threads 2, the tighter the weave, which modifies the permeability to air and water. It is possible to modify the number of warp threads for a unit of weft distance and it is possible to modify the number of weft threads for a unit of warp distance. This information can be provided in the form n threads / cm for the weft and/or the warp.
  • the interlacing configuration is chosen so that the textile piece is waterproof. However, it is particularly advantageous if the interlacing configuration is chosen so that the textile piece allows water to pass through. A compromise is found in the interlacing configuration between the ability to allow air and possibly water vapor to pass through and the resistance to abrasion and possibly puncture.
  • the interlacing configuration of the textile piece 1 will be adjusted. It is possible to choose one weave or another so as to promote or block the passage of air between one side of the textile piece 1 and the other side. It is also possible to choose the percentage of occupation by the threads for a given unit of surface area so as to modulate the capacity to allow the passage of air between one side of the textile piece 1 and the other side. The same is true for the capacity to circulate water. It is possible to form a garment having several different zones. The zones are distinguished by a difference in weave and/or by a difference in the number of threads/cm.
  • first yarn 2a which has a core 4 made of the first material and in particular of para-aramid covered by a protective sheath 5 which is specific to it makes it possible to form a textile part 1 whose performance is better preserved over time, in particular after multiple washes in water and after a period of exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It is possible to form a textile part 1 which is more flexible than the coated configuration of the prior art and which allows better ventilation while offering equally good or even better performance over time.
  • the textile piece 1 has a content of first yarns 2a that is greater than or equal to 10%, the content is in number of yarns.
  • the textile piece 2 can be formed only with first yarns 2a, that is to say with a content of first yarns 2a equal to 100%.
  • a content of first yarns 2a that is equal to 100% it is possible to form a textile whose breathability is greater than or equal to 300L/m 2 /s at 200Pa, for example a textile whose breathability is between 300 and 400L/m 2 /s at 200Pa.
  • Such a breathability value is much higher than what is observed with a leather jacket or a jacket covered with a coating layer without degradation of the fire resistance performance.
  • the content of first threads 2a corresponds to the number of first threads 2a out of the total number of threads for a given unit of surface, for example 1cm 2 . It is particularly advantageous that the surface proportion of first threads 2a is never less than 10%, that is to say that the surface occupied by the first threads 2a is greater than 10% for a given unit of surface, for example 1cm 2 . Preferably, the content of first threads 2a is greater than or equal to 30%, or even 50%. The higher the content of first 2a threads, the higher the mechanical performance at high temperatures.
  • first yarns 2a having a core made of first material and preferably para-aramid makes it possible to form a textile part 1 which has good resistance to opening under the effect of a flame and convective heat.
  • the content of first yarns 2a is adapted. The higher the content of first yarns 2a, the higher the resistance to opening under the effect of a flame and convective heat.
  • first yarns 2a which have a count between 110dTex and 2200dTex.
  • first yarn 2a from the indicated range.
  • the textile part 1 is formed with at least one additional yarn 2b.
  • the at least one additional yarn 2b is chosen from one or more meta-aramid yarns 2b, one or more ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene yarns and a poly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) (PBO), one or more viscose yarns, one or more modacrylic yarns, one or more polyamide yarns, one or more polyester yarns, one or more polyvinyl alcohol PVA yarns, one or more polybenzimidazole PBI yarns.
  • An ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene is a polyethylene molecule whose molar mass is greater than 10 6 g/mol, preferably between 1 and 10.10 6 g/mol.
  • the at least one additional thread possibly includes a flame retardant additive.
  • Meta-aramid yarns, poly(p-phenylene-2,6-benzobisoxazole) yarns and ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene yarns form first additional yarns 2b.
  • the first additional yarns 2b and the first threads 2a represent the majority of the threads 2 of the textile piece 1. It is also advantageous for the first additional threads 2b to be in the form of a core covered by a sheath.
  • the sheath may have flame retardants.
  • the sheath is advantageously made of the second material.
  • the yarns 2 as first additional yarns 2b are used in the textile piece 1 in order to improve the abrasion resistance.
  • the additional yarn 2b may also be chosen from a natural fiber or a synthetic fiber.
  • the natural fiber is chosen from cotton or wool.
  • the synthetic fiber may be a viscose, that is to say a plastic material of plant origin, and preferably obtained from cellulose. It is also possible to use polyester, polyamide or modacrylic.
  • the additional yarn may also be an elastane to provide flexibility/elasticity to the textile piece 1.
  • a textile piece 1 which has a surface content of yarns 2 of between 10 and 40 yarns/cm (warp and/or weft) to form a textile piece 1 which has good moisture transfer.
  • the surface content corresponds to the surface occupied by the yarns 2 for a given unit of surface.
  • the remainder corresponds to the through holes of the textile piece 1.
  • the textile piece 1 has a ratio between the average count of the first threads 2a and the average count of the additional threads 2b (T additional threads / T first threads ) which is between 0.5 and 10.
  • the average count is an average count in number.
  • the textile piece 1 is formed with a first yarn 2a whose core 4 is in the form of a long fiber, that is to say that the core 4 is formed by one or more filaments which extend continuously from one end to the other of the textile piece 1.
  • the core 4 is formed by several filaments, the majority or all of the filaments extend continuously from one end of the textile piece 1 to the other.
  • the textile piece has para-aramid yarns whose core is formed with short fibers that are bonded to each other. It is advantageous if the sheath 5 is also in the form of a sheath 5 that extends continuously and monolithically from one end of the textile piece 1 to the other.
  • the same first yarn 2a may extend continuously several times from one end to the other.
  • the same first yarn 2a forms several weft yarns, preferably several adjacent weft yarns.
  • the continuity of the weft yarns may disappear once the textile piece 1 is cut to the shape of the garment 3 or a part of the garment 3.
  • Pilling resistance can be quantified by the modified Martindale method (ISO12945-2-2000 standard). Better pilling resistance allows the textile piece 1 to be preserved for a longer time.
  • first yarns 2a with long fibers makes it possible to form a textile piece 1 whose yarns 2 are less tightly packed against each other, which improves the thermal evaporative resistance called RET (in m 2 .Pa/W), i.e. the resistance that a fabric opposes to the evacuation of moisture. This resistance value is measured according to the ISO11092 standard.
  • the textile piece 1 has a first portion 1a and a second portion 1b.
  • the first portion 1a and the second portion 1b share at least one first yarn 2a, preferably several first yarns 2a. It is particularly advantageous that the first portion 1a and the second portion 1b come from the same manufacturing step of the textile piece 1, that is to say the same weaving step or in a configuration outside the invention the same knitting step or the same braiding step.
  • the first portion 1a has a first thermal evaporative resistance value and the second portion 1b has a second thermal evaporative resistance value which is different from the first thermal evaporative resistance.
  • the first portion 1a has a first air permeability value and the second portion 1b has a second air permeability value that is different from the first air permeability value.
  • the first portion 1a has a first water permeability value and the second portion 1b has a second water permeability value that is different from the first water permeability value.
  • the first portion 1a has a first flame or convective heat opening value and the second portion 1b has a second flame or convective heat opening value that is different from the first flame or convective heat opening value.
  • the first portion 1a has a first mass per unit area value and the second portion 1b has a second mass per unit area value that is different from the first mass per unit area value.
  • the first portion 1a has a first abrasion resistance value and the second portion 1b has a second abrasion resistance value which is different from the first abrasion resistance value.
  • the first portion 1a has an interlacing configuration that is different from the interlacing configuration of the second portion 1b.
  • the first portion 1a has a first yarn content 2a that is different from the first yarn content 2a in the second portion 1b as illustrated in figures 2, 3 and 4 .
  • the first portion 1a has a content of first additional yarn 2b which is different from the content of first additional yarn 2b in the second portion 1b.
  • the textile piece 1 forms all or part of a garment 3, for example a jacket.
  • the first portion 1a and the second portion 1b have different mechanical and/or thermal performances which makes it possible to use the same textile piece to form several different parts of the garment 3.
  • the different parts of the garment 3 must meet different needs.
  • the textile piece 1 may comprise a portion which has low water permeability on the front face of the garment 3 and high water permeability on the back face of the garment 3 or vice versa depending on the identified needs. These two portions belong to the same monolithic textile piece 1 and come from the same manufacturing step, that is to say the same weaving step or in a configuration outside the invention by knitting or braiding. It is advantageous to provide a textile piece 1 which has portions 1a and 1b having different mechanical and/or thermal characteristics so as to better adapt the performance of the different portions to the needs of the garment 3. This also makes it possible to better control the mass of the garment 3.
  • two portions 1a and 1b are shown, but it is possible to make three, four or more different portions.
  • the portions differ from each other by one of the parameters identified above: thermal evaporative resistance, resistance to opening under the effect of a flame or under the effect of convective heat, air permeability, water permeability, abrasion resistance, pilling resistance.
  • the textile part 1 is particularly advantageous for forming all or part of a firefighter's jacket intended for fighting fires. This makes it possible to provide a textile part 1 which differentiates the areas intended to withstand intense heat and areas better suited to promoting the evacuation of perspiration.
  • the textile piece 1 can also form all or part of a motor vehicle driver's suit.
  • the thermal constraints are essentially identical to those of firefighter clothing because it is necessary to be able to wick away perspiration throughout the race without neglecting flame resistance when an incident occurs.
  • the textile part 1 may be a luggage textile part.
  • the textile part may be a furnishing textile part in order to better meet the constraints on flame-retardant textiles.
  • the textile part 1 may be part of a piece of furniture, for example an armchair, a sofa, a seat.
  • the textile piece 1 it is particularly advantageous for the textile piece 1 to have meta-aramid yarns and para-aramid yarns in order to combine the advantages of each of the yarns.
  • the meta-aramid yarns and the para-aramid yarns are bonded together to form a single yarn.
  • the meta-aramid fibers and the para-aramid fibers are combined together during the same spinning step.
  • the sheath is formed around the para-aramid and meta-aramid yarns.
  • the inner ply is formed mainly or exclusively by meta-aramid yarns while the outer ply is formed mainly or exclusively by para-aramid yarns each coated by a sheath 5.
  • the reverse is also possible.
  • the textile piece 1 is obtained by weaving.
  • the first threads 2a belong at least to the warp threads and they can belong to the warp threads and to the weft threads.
  • a fabric 1 obtained by weaving has at least one warp thread as well as several weft threads as illustrated in figure 2 .
  • the at least one warp thread and the weft threads are identical. If the fabric 1 is formed by several warp threads and/or several weft threads, the latter are then identical.
  • the threads forming the knit are preferably identical. The same applies if the fabric 1 is obtained by braiding as illustrated in figure 4 .
  • the fabric 1 has different threads.
  • the threads are different in their mechanical performance and/or in their compositions. If the fabric 1 is obtained by weaving, it is possible to use several weft threads and/or several warp threads and at least one of the threads is different from the first thread 2a. In embodiments outside the invention, if the fabric 1 is obtained by knitting, it is possible to use several threads of which at least one is different from the first thread 2a. If the fabric is obtained by braiding, it is possible to use several threads of which at least one is different from the first thread 2a. For example, the figure 3 illustrates an embodiment in which at least one additional wire 2b is different from the first wire 2a.
  • the sheath 5 can be formed around the core 4 by any known method, for example by coating, by extrusion, by physical vapor deposition or by chemical deposition, for example by a sol-gel process.
  • the fabric 1 it is possible to use a first yarn 2 which has a count between 50dTex and 3300dTex.
  • the choice of the count of the first yarn 2 can be made according to the expected flexibility characteristics. If the fabric 1 is formed by several yarns, it is advantageous for all the yarns to have a count between 50dTex and 3300dTex.
  • the core of the first yarn 2a has a tenacity of between 6cN/Tex and 40cN/Tex. Such tenacity makes it possible to have a fabric 1 that is particularly well suited to resisting deformation of the fabric 1 without breaking.
  • the fabric 1 has a surface mass of between 110g/m 2 and 500g/m 2 .
  • the surface mass of the fabric 1 can be defined by judiciously choosing the count of the yarn(s) forming the fabric and the weave of the fabric 1.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Toxicology (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Claims (11)

  1. Textilteil (1), umfassend eine Vielzahl von gewebten Fäden (2), wobei:
    - die Vielzahl von Fäden (2) mindestens 10 % erste Fäden (2a) umfasst,
    - jeder erste Faden (2a) einen Kern (4) aus einem ersten Material und einen Mantel (5) aus einem zweiten Material aufweist, das sich vom ersten Material unterscheidet;
    - das erste Material ein Para-Aramid, eine Kohlefaser oder eine Glasfaser ist;
    - der Mantel (5) um den Kern (4) herum eine wasserdichte Barriere sowie eine die UV-Strahlung blockierende Barriere bildet, wobei das zweite Material aus einem anderen Material als das erste Material hergestellt ist;
    wobei der Mantel (5) jedes ersten Fadens (2a) durch einen leeren Bereich oder durch eine Schicht aus einem Material, das flexibler ist als das zweite Material, von den benachbarten Fäden (2a, 2b) beabstandet ist, und
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Textilteil (1) einen ersten Abschnitt (1a) mit einem ersten Flächengehalt an ersten Fäden (2a) und einen zweiten Abschnitt (1b) mit einem zweiten Flächengehalt an ersten Fäden (2a) definiert, der größer ist als der erste Flächengehalt, und wobei mindestens ein erster Faden (2a) kontinuierlich durch den ersten Abschnitt (1a) und den zweiten Abschnitt (1b) verläuft.
  2. Textilteil (1) nach Anspruch 1, umfassend mindestens einen zusätzlichen ersten Faden (2b), gewählt aus einem oder mehreren Fäden aus Meta-Aramid, einem oder mehreren Fäden aus Polyethylen mit ultrahohem Molekulargewicht, einem oder mehreren Fäden aus Poly(p-phenylen-2,6-benzobisoxazol), einem oder mehreren Fäden aus Viskose, einem oder mehreren Fäden aus Modacryl, einem oder mehreren Fäden aus Polyamid, einem oder mehreren Fäden aus Polyester, einem oder mehreren Fäden aus Polyvinylalkohol (PVA), einem oder mehreren Fäden aus Polybenzimidazol (PBI), wobei der mindestens eine zusätzliche Faden gegebenenfalls einen flammhemmenden Zusatz enthält.
  3. Textilteil (1) nach Anspruch 2, wobei die ersten Fäden (2a) und der mindestens eine zusätzliche erste Faden (2b) die Mehrheit der Fäden (2) darstellen, die das Textilteil (1) bilden.
  4. Textilteil (1) nach einem der Ansprüche 2 und 3, wobei ein Verhältnis zwischen einem mittleren Titer der ersten Fäden (2a) und einem mittleren Titer der zusätzlichen Fäden (2b) (Tzusätzliche Fäden/ Terste Fäden) zwischen 0,5 und 10 liegt, wobei der mittlere Titer ein zahlenmäßiger mittlerer Titer ist.
  5. Textilteil (1) nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, wobei das zweite Material aus Polyurethanether, Polyurethanester, Polyurethanpolyacrylat, Silikon, einem Polyolefin, einem thermoplastischen Polyurethan (TPU) oder einer Mischung davon gewählt ist, gegebenenfalls mit Zusatz von Füllstoffen.
  6. Textilteil (1) nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche, wobei der Kern (4) jedes ersten Fadens (2a) aus einer oder mehreren Fasern gebildet wird, die jeweils kontinuierlich von einem Ende des Textilteils (1) zum anderen verlaufen.
  7. Textilteil (1) nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, wobei der Mantel (5) jedes ersten Fadens (2a) durch einen leeren Bereich von den benachbarten Fäden (2a, 2b) beabstandet ist und mit keiner Beschichtungsschicht versehen ist, die die ersten Fäden (2a) kontinuierlich verbindet, sodass ein luftdurchlässiges Textilteil definiert wird.
  8. Textilteil (1) nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, wobei das Textilteil (1) ein Gewebe mit einer Webdichte zwischen 10 und 40 Fäden/cm ist, um ein wasserundurchlässiges und luftdurchlässiges Textilteil (1) zu bilden.
  9. Kleidungsstück (3) mit einem Textilteil (1) nach einem der vorherigen Ansprüche.
  10. Kleidungsstück (3) nach Anspruch 9, das eine Feuerschutzkleidung ist.
  11. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Textilteils (1) nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, umfassend die folgenden Schritte:
    - Bereitstellen mindestens eines ersten Fadens (2a), der einen Kern (4) aus einem ersten Material und einem Mantel (5) aus einem zweiten Material aufweist, das sich von dem ersten Material unterscheidet, wobei das erste Material ein Para-Aramid, eine Kohlefaser oder eine Glasfaser ist, wobei der Mantel (5) um den Kern (4) herum eine wasserdichte Barriere sowie eine die UV-Strahlung blockierende Barriere bildet;
    - Weben des mindestens einen ersten Fadens (2), um das Textilteil (1) zu bilden, das mindestens 10 % erste Fäden (2a) umfasst, wobei der Mantel (5) jedes ersten Fadens (2a) durch einen leeren Bereich oder durch eine Schicht aus einem Material, das flexibler ist als das zweite Material, von den benachbarten Fäden (2a, 2b) beabstandet ist;
    wobei das Textilteil (1) ein Gewebe ist, das einen ersten Abschnitt (1a) mit einem ersten Flächengehalt an ersten Fäden (2a) und einen zweiten Abschnitt (1b) mit einem zweiten Flächengehalt an ersten Fäden (2a) definiert, der größer ist als der erste Flächengehalt, und wobei mindestens ein erster Faden (2a) kontinuierlich durch den ersten Abschnitt (1a) und den zweiten Abschnitt (1b) verläuft.
EP23184298.0A 2022-09-16 2023-07-07 Textilteil, verfahren zur herstellung eines textilteils und kleidungsstück mit einem solchen textilteil und verfahren zur herstellung Active EP4339342B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2209348A FR3139834B1 (fr) 2022-09-16 2022-09-16 Pièce textile, procédé de fabrication d’une pièce textile et vêtement comportant une telle pièce textile et procédé de fabrication

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EP4339342A1 EP4339342A1 (de) 2024-03-20
EP4339342C0 EP4339342C0 (de) 2025-09-03
EP4339342B1 true EP4339342B1 (de) 2025-09-03

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EP23184298.0A Active EP4339342B1 (de) 2022-09-16 2023-07-07 Textilteil, verfahren zur herstellung eines textilteils und kleidungsstück mit einem solchen textilteil und verfahren zur herstellung

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FR (1) FR3139834B1 (de)

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2604193A1 (fr) * 1986-09-19 1988-03-25 Paris Claude Fil composite pour tricotage de produits textiles, notamment de gants techniques, procede de fabrication d'un tel fil composite et produits ainsi obtenus.
US5224363A (en) * 1988-12-16 1993-07-06 Golden Needles Knitting & Glove Co., Inc. Method of making garment, garment, and strand material
TWI487820B (zh) * 2008-05-26 2015-06-11 Teijin Aramid Gmbh 阻礙穿刺之物品
US9624608B2 (en) * 2012-02-17 2017-04-18 Nike, Inc. Architecturally reinforced denim
US20170340038A1 (en) * 2016-05-25 2017-11-30 Supreme Corporation Cut, slash and/or abrasion resistant protective fabric and lightweight shaped knit garment made therefrom having improved appearance and cut resistance

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EP4339342A1 (de) 2024-03-20
EP4339342C0 (de) 2025-09-03
FR3139834B1 (fr) 2024-11-08
FR3139834A1 (fr) 2024-03-22

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