EP4332689A1 - Verfahren zur herstellung eines uhr- oder schmuckstücks mit eingelegtem keramikdekor - Google Patents

Verfahren zur herstellung eines uhr- oder schmuckstücks mit eingelegtem keramikdekor Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4332689A1
EP4332689A1 EP22193760.0A EP22193760A EP4332689A1 EP 4332689 A1 EP4332689 A1 EP 4332689A1 EP 22193760 A EP22193760 A EP 22193760A EP 4332689 A1 EP4332689 A1 EP 4332689A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
chosen
recess
hard material
polymer
decoration
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP22193760.0A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Pierry Vuille
Nicolas Oian
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Comadur SA
Original Assignee
Comadur SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Comadur SA filed Critical Comadur SA
Priority to EP22193760.0A priority Critical patent/EP4332689A1/de
Priority to JP2023121406A priority patent/JP2024035799A/ja
Priority to CN202311009024.9A priority patent/CN117643409A/zh
Priority to US18/453,361 priority patent/US20240074553A1/en
Publication of EP4332689A1 publication Critical patent/EP4332689A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/18—Graduations on the crystal or glass, on the bezel, or on the rim
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C25/00—Miscellaneous fancy ware for personal wear, e.g. pendants, crosses, crucifixes, charms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B33—ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY
    • B33Y—ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING, i.e. MANUFACTURING OF THREE-DIMENSIONAL [3-D] OBJECTS BY ADDITIVE DEPOSITION, ADDITIVE AGGLOMERATION OR ADDITIVE LAYERING, e.g. BY 3-D PRINTING, STEREOLITHOGRAPHY OR SELECTIVE LASER SINTERING
    • B33Y10/00—Processes of additive manufacturing
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B33—ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY
    • B33Y—ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING, i.e. MANUFACTURING OF THREE-DIMENSIONAL [3-D] OBJECTS BY ADDITIVE DEPOSITION, ADDITIVE AGGLOMERATION OR ADDITIVE LAYERING, e.g. BY 3-D PRINTING, STEREOLITHOGRAPHY OR SELECTIVE LASER SINTERING
    • B33Y70/00—Materials specially adapted for additive manufacturing
    • B33Y70/10—Composites of different types of material, e.g. mixtures of ceramics and polymers or mixtures of metals and biomaterials
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B33—ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY
    • B33Y—ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING, i.e. MANUFACTURING OF THREE-DIMENSIONAL [3-D] OBJECTS BY ADDITIVE DEPOSITION, ADDITIVE AGGLOMERATION OR ADDITIVE LAYERING, e.g. BY 3-D PRINTING, STEREOLITHOGRAPHY OR SELECTIVE LASER SINTERING
    • B33Y80/00—Products made by additive manufacturing
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B45/00—Time pieces of which the indicating means or cases provoke special effects, e.g. aesthetic effects
    • G04B45/0015—Light-, colour-, line- or spot-effects caused by or on stationary parts
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
    • G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0074—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for treatment of the material, e.g. surface treatment

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method of manufacturing a watchmaking or jewelry element, made of hard material, inlaid with at least one decoration in a second material.
  • the invention also relates to a decorative element for watches or jewelry, made of hard material, inlaid with at least one decoration in a second material.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of timepiece or jewelry comprising at least one such decorative element.
  • the invention relates to the field of manufacturing decorative elements for timepieces, jewelry, and jewelry, which must combine high mechanical strength, resistance to wear, unalterability, and a particular aesthetic effect.
  • cladding components on the basis of a hard material, in particular and not limited to a ceramic, comprising a decoration contrasting with the appearance of this hard material, is difficult, because this decoration must present mechanical resistance qualities, resistance to wear, and unalterability, which are close to those of the hard base material.
  • the connection between the hard material and this added decoration must be perfect, and aesthetic (as can be a setting in jewelry), or invisible to the user.
  • the problem of choosing materials and defining the operating mode is to ensure good mechanical behavior of the covering element, and in particular excellent adhesion of the decoration in a body made of hard material, good resistance to scratches, and good durability over time.
  • the invention aims to develop a method for producing a watchmaking or jewelry element, made of hard material, inlaid with at least one decoration, in particular in a second material different from this hard material, to ultimately combine high mechanical strength, resistance to wear, unalterability, and a particular aesthetic effect.
  • the invention relates to a method for producing a watchmaking or jewelry element, made of hard material, inlaid with at least one decoration in a second material different from this hard material, according to claim 1.
  • the invention also relates to a decorative element for watches or jewelry, made of hard material, inlaid with at least one decoration in a second material.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of timepiece or jewelry comprising at least one such decorative element.
  • the invention relates to a method of manufacturing an element 10, in particular a decorative, watchmaking or jewelry element, comprising a body made of hard material, inlaid with at least one decoration 5 in a second material , notably different from this hard material.
  • the document EP2855400 in the name of The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd thus describes a ceramic element inlaid with at least one composite ceramic decoration.
  • This composite ceramic decoration is made with an organic matrix loaded with ceramic particles, crosslinked and densified under a controlled atmosphere after its insertion into a recess in the ceramic element.
  • the teachings of this document are also applicable to certain variants of the present invention, for example for the manufacture of multi-colored decorations, or even comprising a phosphorescent material such as Superluminova ® , or even comprising a phosphorescent strontium aluminate, or the like.
  • the document EP4001356 in the name of ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse describes an article made from a filled plastic material, this material comprising a filler in a metallic and/or ceramic material, at least one polymer, and optionally a coupling agent, a reinforcement, a pigment, a thinner and/or a plasticizer, within very specific ranges.
  • teachings of this document are also applicable to certain variants of the present invention, for example for the composition of a second material which we will explain below.
  • a body 1 is formed in such a hard material.
  • At least one recess 9 is made in one face of the body 1 made of hard material. This at least one recess 9 is arranged to form the imprint of such a decoration.
  • a third step 300 the surface condition of the bottom and/or the walls of this recess 9 is modified to increase its contact surface.
  • FIG. 4 shows an exemplary embodiment, in which undercut profiles 91 have been made on the walls, and cavities 92 also bordered by undercut surfaces have been made on the bottom of the recess 9; the mixed lines show the trajectories of laser beams, passing through the orifice of the recess 9, and capable of machining these profiles and hooking surfaces in undercut
  • a fourth step 400 at least one recess 9 is filled with this second material, which is a composite material comprising in whole or in part at least one biosourced charged polymer, which is chosen for its resistance to wear, to constitute an insert 2 forming such a decor 5.
  • this biosourced charged polymer can be or include a bioceramic, such as Bioceramics ® from Swatch ® , which includes a ceramic with biosourced materials made from castor oil.
  • a bioceramic such as Bioceramics ® from Swatch ® , which includes a ceramic with biosourced materials made from castor oil.
  • a surface finish is carried out on this insert 2, by machining its surface 12, in particular recessed or leveling with the surface 11 of the body 1 around the recess 9.
  • micro-undercuts 91, 92 are created at the level of the walls and/or the bottom.
  • micro-cuts 91, 92 are created, which are undercut at the level of the walls and/or the bottom.
  • an inclined laser shot makes it possible, even if the recess has a small opening, to produce such hollow profiles in the walls or the bottom, facilitating the attachment of the second material to the first material.
  • the walls and/or the bottom of the recess are produced with a roughness of between 7 and 13 micrometers Ra, more particularly between 8 and 10 micrometers Ra.
  • the insert 2 is leveled, or it is machined set back from the body 1, to limit its volume to that of the recess 9 in which it was formed, in order not to leave second material only in the hollow of this recess 9.
  • the insert 2 made in the second material is not protruding relative to the surface of the body, where a recess has been made.
  • said hard material of the body is chosen from an oxide, or a carbide or a nitride, respectively of titanium, or zirconium, or silicon, or aluminum.
  • said hard material of said body is chosen from a cermet, a sapphire, a spinel, or according to a composition taken from MgAlO4, Mn3O4, ZnFeO4, FeCrO4, LiMnO4, MgSe0.1-0.4Al0.9-0.6O4, YAG, or even among precious, semi-precious stones, or hard stones, meteorites, mother-of-pearl, fossils, and the like.
  • cermet comprising an oxide, or a carbide or a nitride, respectively of titanium, or zirconium, or silicon, or aluminum.
  • a composite ceramic is chosen as the second composite material.
  • this second composite material comprising ceramic particles.
  • the second composite material comprising ceramic particles which are formed from an oxide or a carbide or a nitride, respectively of titanium, or zirconium, or silicon, or aluminum .
  • the second material comprising between 50% and 85% by mass of ceramic.
  • this second composite material comprising particles of a third material which is a hard material.
  • the second material comprising between 50% and 85% by mass of metal.
  • the metallic filler may include titanium, tungsten, platinum, gold, iridium.
  • second material a material comprising, by mass and for a total of 100%, a filler in a biosourced material and/or metallic and/or ceramic in a percentage between 50% and 85% inclusive, at least minus a polymer in a percentage between 15% and 50% inclusive, a coupling agent in a percentage between 0% and 10% inclusive, reinforcement in a percentage between 0% and 10% inclusive included, a pigment in a percentage between 0% and 5% inclusive, a diluent and/or a plasticizer in a percentage between 0% and 5% inclusive, this polymer being linked to this filler and/or, when the second material comprises at least one coupling agent, this coupling agent being respectively linked to the polymer and to the charge by one or more of the bonds chosen from a hydrogen bond, a coordination bond and an ionic bond.
  • this polymer comprises a hydrogen bond donor
  • the possible coupling agent comprises a hydrogen bond donor
  • this polymer is a polyamide, and the possible coupling agent is a polyurethane.
  • this polymer is a polyurethane.
  • this polymer is a polyester, and the possible coupling agent is a hydroxysilane with an amide or amine function.
  • the second material comprises a reinforcement formed of glass fibers, and/or glass beads, and/or carbon fibers, and/or aramid fibers, and/or plant and/or animal fibers. .
  • the recess is filled with an organic matrix loaded at least partially with organic particles.
  • an intermediate step 450 is carried out, during which this organic matrix is crosslinked and densified under a controlled atmosphere, at a temperature between 20°C and 300°C.
  • this intermediate step 450 is carried out under a pressure of between 300 and 650 bars, more particularly between 400 and 600 bars.
  • this organic matrix is formed from a modified or unmodified epoxy, and/or a modified or unmodified acrylic, and/or a polyurethane, and/or a silicone. More particularly, this organic polymer matrix is loaded with ceramic; even more particularly, the ceramic load is, by mass, between 55% and 65%, limits included, of the mass of the second material, in particular close to 60%, more particularly between 58% and 62%, limits included.
  • the first step 100 is carried out.
  • the second step 200 and/or the third step 300 is carried out by laser scanning. Production by mechanical engraving is possible, but the cost of the necessary diamond tools is high.
  • the recess is made with a depth of between 80 micrometers and 500 micrometers relative to the upper surface of the body made of hard material.
  • cavities or grooves are produced in the bottom and/or the walls of the recess, the depth of which is less than a fifth of that of this recess.
  • the third step 300 is carried out by sandblasting.
  • a bonding layer is formed at the bottom and/or walls of the recess to ensure better adhesion of the second material .
  • a lacquer is chosen for this bonding layer, or a layer comprising at least one metal and/or a metal alloy.
  • a layer comprising at least one metal nitride, and/or a carbide is chosen for this bonding layer.
  • At least part of the fourth step 400 is carried out by overmolding or injection.
  • At least one step of sintering, cooking, or passing through a particular atmosphere can be integrated into the process.
  • the first material and/or the second material comprising more than 75% by mass of gold and/or platinum. Under certain mass distribution conditions, a titratable component can thus be obtained.
  • the first step 100 and/or the fourth step 400 is carried out by 3D printing on the basis of a three-dimensional file.
  • a set of three-dimensional data is first generated defining a model, which includes at least one recess 9, and at least one evacuation orifice necessary for the implementation of the process.
  • This three-dimensional data set is converted into a plurality of layers, each layer representing a cross-sectional layer of the object, which object is formed layer by layer from a powder material using an additive manufacturing process such as "DMLS » laser sintering of metal (for Direct Metal Laser Sintering), or similar in order to produce this object in a unitary manner.
  • the loose powder is removed from each cavity, in particular from each recess, by at least one such powder discharge orifice, formed between the cavity and an external surface of the object. If necessary, at least one through hole formed through the object is machined for receiving a control member or the like, this through hole can be pre-formed during the three-dimensional construction of the object.
  • the first step 100, the second step 200, and the third step 300 for the manufacture of the body 1 in the first material .
  • at least one insert 2 is produced during the fourth step 400 carried out in 3D printing with the second material, on the base constituted by the body 1.
  • the first step 100, the second step 200, the third step 300 and the fourth step 400 are combined in a single 3D printing operation, on the basis of a three-dimensional file.
  • the set of three-dimensional data defines the supply of powders corresponding to the first material and the second material, and the machine program defines the temporal sequences of laser sintering of the first material and the second material respectively, at each location concerned.
  • the composite inlay process uses petroleum-based polymers, which have superior mechanical properties to other polymers, but are at the limits when it comes to scratch resistance.
  • the mechanical behavior of a second material made of filled plastic is superior, and preferable for a watchmaking application, even better than a second material made of epoxy base with a ceramic load of 60%.
  • the invention allows the production of an element made of hard material, inlaid with at least one composite ceramic decoration with a composition comprising a biosourced matrix.
  • the overmolding inlay process is best suited for base polymers comprising a hydrogen bond donor such as epoxy, acrylic, polyurethane or silicone.
  • a hydrogen bond donor such as epoxy, acrylic, polyurethane or silicone.
  • Such a composite is developed for injection technologies, which facilitates integration into a manufacturing cycle.
  • the resistance over time is good, and it is possible to produce a component of acceptable hardness, with good resistance to wear.
  • the invention also relates to a decorative element 10 for watches or jewelry, comprising a body 1 of hard material, inlaid with at least one decoration 5 in a second material different from the hard material, in particular produced by this process. More particularly, at least one such decoration 5 is constituted by the surface of an insert 2 in biosourced charged polymer chosen for its resistance to wear.
  • the invention also relates to a piece 100 of timepieces or jewelry comprising at least one such covering element 10.
  • the invention lends itself well to the production of complex decorations, or very fine decorations, such as numbers, indexes, or other symbols, as well as to the production of partitioned decorations with thin walls.
  • the process also makes it possible to produce three-dimensional parts of significant height compared to the dimensions of their base.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Ceramic Engineering (AREA)
  • Civil Engineering (AREA)
  • Composite Materials (AREA)
  • Structural Engineering (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
EP22193760.0A 2022-09-02 2022-09-02 Verfahren zur herstellung eines uhr- oder schmuckstücks mit eingelegtem keramikdekor Pending EP4332689A1 (de)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP22193760.0A EP4332689A1 (de) 2022-09-02 2022-09-02 Verfahren zur herstellung eines uhr- oder schmuckstücks mit eingelegtem keramikdekor
JP2023121406A JP2024035799A (ja) 2022-09-02 2023-07-26 セラミックス装飾が象嵌された計時器又は宝飾品の要素を作る方法
CN202311009024.9A CN117643409A (zh) 2022-09-02 2023-08-11 生产镶嵌有陶瓷装饰部的钟表或珠宝元件的方法
US18/453,361 US20240074553A1 (en) 2022-09-02 2023-08-22 Process for producing a horological or jewellery element inlaid with a ceramic decoration

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP22193760.0A EP4332689A1 (de) 2022-09-02 2022-09-02 Verfahren zur herstellung eines uhr- oder schmuckstücks mit eingelegtem keramikdekor

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4332689A1 true EP4332689A1 (de) 2024-03-06

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Family Applications (1)

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EP22193760.0A Pending EP4332689A1 (de) 2022-09-02 2022-09-02 Verfahren zur herstellung eines uhr- oder schmuckstücks mit eingelegtem keramikdekor

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20240074553A1 (de)
EP (1) EP4332689A1 (de)
JP (1) JP2024035799A (de)
CN (1) CN117643409A (de)

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2855400A1 (de) 2012-05-30 2015-04-08 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Keramisches bauteil mit mindestens einem eingebetteten verbundkeramik-zierelement
EP4001356A1 (de) 2020-11-24 2022-05-25 ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse Artikel aus einem schweren kunststoffmaterial

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2855400A1 (de) 2012-05-30 2015-04-08 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Keramisches bauteil mit mindestens einem eingebetteten verbundkeramik-zierelement
EP2855400B1 (de) * 2012-05-30 2016-06-01 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Keramikelement mit mindestens einem verbundkeramikdekoreinsatz
EP4001356A1 (de) 2020-11-24 2022-05-25 ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse Artikel aus einem schweren kunststoffmaterial

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
FARMELO ALLEN: "Hands-On Review The Swatch 34mm Slim Caricia Verde - Bioceramic Explained", 15 August 2022 (2022-08-15), pages 1 - 6, XP093022942, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://web.archive.org/web/20220815005956/https://www.beyondthedial.com/post/hands-on-review-the-swatch-34mm-slim-caricia-verde-bioceramic-explained/> [retrieved on 20230210] *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP2024035799A (ja) 2024-03-14
CN117643409A (zh) 2024-03-05
US20240074553A1 (en) 2024-03-07

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