EP4228592A1 - Cleansing cosmetic composition comprising surfactants - Google Patents

Cleansing cosmetic composition comprising surfactants

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Publication number
EP4228592A1
EP4228592A1 EP21789769.3A EP21789769A EP4228592A1 EP 4228592 A1 EP4228592 A1 EP 4228592A1 EP 21789769 A EP21789769 A EP 21789769A EP 4228592 A1 EP4228592 A1 EP 4228592A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
composition
relation
composition according
total weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21789769.3A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Isabelle Bossant
Flavie MAIRE AMIOT
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP4228592A1 publication Critical patent/EP4228592A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly a cleansing cosmetic composition for the skin and appendages, preferably a shower gel or a cleansing product for the face, body, hands, and/or hair, comprising an aqueous phase and a combination of specific surfactants.
  • Skin cleansing is very important for skin care. It should offer the highest possible performance, because fatty residues such as excess sebum or residues from cosmetic products used on a daily basis accumulate in the folds of the skin and can obstruct the skin's pores and cause pimples.
  • a means for correctly cleansing the skin is to use foaming cleansing products.
  • Foaming cleansing products currently commercially available have the form of cakes, gels or foaming liquids. They generally contain either soaps, which have the advantage of yielding a rich and voluminous foam, but which can cause tightness due to their excessive detergence; or they contain syndet-type foaming surfactants and stabilizers, which are associated with each other. Furthermore, using the foaming cleansing products currently available on the market can cause a tingling effect and/or eye or skin irritation.
  • keratinous tissues preferably the skin
  • an attractive visual appearance particularly a pearly appearance
  • Such an opacity is particularly attractive in the case of hygiene products, such as shower gels.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to propose such compositions without the drawbacks of the prior art and with good usage qualities (foaming capacity, consistency, rinsing speed, skin hydration after drying), as well as good eye and skin tolerance, plus an opaque appearance.
  • the inventors have demonstrated that a composition comprising an amphoteric surfactant chosen from the betaines, an anionic surfactant chosen from the alkyl sulfates, and glyceryl stearate, achieves a cosmetic composition, particularly a shower gel, that meets these needs while being stable.
  • the compositions according to the invention have good usage qualities and have an opaque and/or pearly appearance.
  • a composition having an “opaque and/or pearly” appearance means a composition which is neither transparent nor limpid as determined by the naked eye.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: an aqueous phase, at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from the betaines, at least one anionic surfactant chosen from the alkyl sulfates, a quantity of glyceryl stearate that is strictly greater than 2% by weight and strictly less than 6% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, and in which the quantity of alkyl sulfate is greater than the quantity of glyceryl stearate, which is in turn greater than the quantity of betaine.
  • the invention also relates to a method for cleansing keratinous tissues, particularly the skin of the body or face or the hair or hands, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition as defined above to said keratinous tissues.
  • keratinous tissues refers to the skin (body, face, around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips, and/or mucous membranes.
  • cosmetically acceptable medium refers to any medium compatible with the skin and/or integuments thereof, having a pleasant color, odor and texture and not giving rise to unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), liable to dissuade the consumer from using the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase contains water.
  • the water used can be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and/or a spring or natural mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, water from the Vichy basin, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les- Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water, and Avene water.
  • the aqueous phase may contain at least one organic solvent that is soluble or miscible in water.
  • the water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for the invention comprise short-chain monoalcohols, for example at C1 -C4, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol; polyols such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol; and mixtures thereof.
  • short-chain monoalcohols for example at C1 -C4, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol
  • polyols such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, di
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, preferably at least one polyol.
  • the aqueous phase accounts for 20% to 97% by weight, preferably 30% to 95% by weight, and even more preferably 40% to 90% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least 30% by weight of water, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably 42% to 90% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises 0.1% to 15% by weight of organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.7% to 5% by weight.
  • Amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type is amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from the betaines.
  • ampoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of the betaine type of the invention are preferably chosen from:
  • the betaine alkyls particularly lauryl betaine, such as, for example, the GENAGEN KB® product by CLARIANT, or coco-betaine, such as, for example, the Dehyton AB 30® product by BASF or TEGO Betain AB 1214 by Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH; the N-alkylamido betaines and their derivatives, particularly cocamidopropyl betaine (for example LEBON 2000 HG® by SANYO or EMPIGEN BB® by ALBRIGHT ET WILSON or Dehyton PK 45), lauramidopropyl betaine (for example REWOTERIC AMB12P® by WITCO), or N-disodium N-carboxyethoxyethyl N- cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate; for example MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® by RHODIA CHIMIE);
  • lauryl betaine such as, for example, the GENA
  • - sultaines such as cocoyl amidopropyl hydroxy-sulfobetaine (for example CROSULTAINE C-500 by CRODA);
  • the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is chosen from the betaine alkyls and the N-alkylamido betaines, preferably from the N-alkylamido betaines, more preferably from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the content of active material as amphoteric surfactant chosen from the alkyl betaines is preferably between 1 % and 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1.2% and 10% by weight, and preferably between 1.5% and 5% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from the alkyl sulfates.
  • the preference is to use the alkyl sulfate salts and the mixtures thereof, particularly in the form of salts of alkaline metals (Na or K) or alkaline-earth metals (for example Mg), or of ammonium, amine or amino-alcohol, and the mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant is chosen from the ammonium salts.
  • the anionic surfactant is ammonium lauryl sulfate.
  • the ammonium lauryl sulfate is the ammonium salt of lauryl alcohol sulfate ester, which generally has the formula CH 3 (CH 2 )IOCH 2 OS03NH4.
  • the INCI name is ammonium lauryl sulfate.
  • a preferred ammonium lauryl sulfate according to the present invention is the one marketed by ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ under the name SULFETAL LA B - RSPO - MB or SULFETAL LA B, by PCC EXOL under the name ROSULFAN A MB or ROSULFAN A, or by INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS under the name EMPICOL AL 30 I FL3 I MB or EMPICOL AL 30 / FL3.
  • the content of active material of alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant is preferably at least equal to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferable between 5% and 20% by weight, and preferably between 6% and 15% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises glyceryl stearate.
  • the glyceryl stearate may be chosen from glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearates, glyceryl tristearates, and the mixtures thereof.
  • glyceryl stearate marketed under the name CUTINA GMS V by Cognis, or Tegin M Pellets by Goldschmidt, or the mixture of glyceryl mono- and distearate marketed by STEARINERIE DUBOIS under the name DUB GMS 50/50.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of glyceryl mono-, di-, and tristearates (such as Tegin M Pellets MB).
  • the glyceryl stearate is present in a quantity that is strictly greater than 2% by weight and strictly less than 6% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the glyceryl stearate is present in a quantity of between 2.1% and 5.5% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 2.7% and 4% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the quantity of alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant is greater than the quantity of glyceryl stearate, which is in turn greater than the quantity of betaine amphoteric surfactant.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises, by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition:
  • a content of active material as glyceryl stearate of between 2.1 % and 5.5% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 2.7% and 4% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition;
  • a content of active material as amphoteric surfactant chosen from the alkyl betaines of between 1 % and 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1.2% and 4% by weight, and preferably between 1 .5% and 3.5% by weight.
  • the total quantity of active material of surfactants is between 6% and 30% by weight, preferably between 8% and 25% by weight, preferably between 10% and 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a salt, namely an electrolyte.
  • the electrolyte may be chosen from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate.
  • the electrolyte is preferably sodium chloride.
  • the content of active material as electrolyte is between 0.2% and 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, and preferably between 0.7% and 2% by weight.
  • compositions that comply with the present invention may further comprise conventional cosmetic additives chosen, for instance, from the preservatives, scents, pH adjusters, oils, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, moisturizers, anti-foaming agents, active ingredients, fillers, propellants, or any other ingredient customarily used in the field of cosmetics and/or dermatology.
  • conventional cosmetic additives chosen, for instance, from the preservatives, scents, pH adjusters, oils, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, moisturizers, anti-foaming agents, active ingredients, fillers, propellants, or any other ingredient customarily used in the field of cosmetics and/or dermatology.
  • oils For the oils, let us mention vegetal oils such as olive oil, safflower oil, cumin oil and particularly black cumin oil (nigella), sweet almond oil, or essential oils such as mint essential oil or peppermint essential oil. These oils may be present with a quantity of active material of between 0.0001 % and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 0.5% by weight.
  • the polysaccharide biopolymers such as pectin, carob gum, gum arabic, xanthan gum, guar gum and its derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, in particular the one marketed under the name Jaguar HP105 by Rhodia, the scleroglucans, the derivatives of chitin and chitosan, the carrageenans, which may be a mixture of iota, lambda, and kappa carrageenans, the gellans, the alginates, the starches or modified celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and hydroxyethylcellulose, such as the product marketed under the name Natrosol 250HHR by Aquaion;
  • the polysaccharide biopolymers such as pectin, carob gum, gum arabic, xanthan gum, guar gum and its derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, in particular the one marketed under the
  • carboxyvinyl polymers such as the products marketed under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by Goodrich;
  • AMPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid
  • CTFA name Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide
  • compositions C1 to C3 of the invention were prepared by mixing the ingredients in water:
  • the glyceryl stearate is first heated and then all the ingredients are mixed into the water.
  • Example 2 Preparation and evaluation of composition according to the invention and comparative compositions
  • compositions identical to composition C2 of the invention were prepared according to the protocol described in example 1 , but containing 2%, 4%, or 6% by weight of glyceryl stearate (instead of 3% by weight for C2), respectively, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • each composition was evaluated according to the following protocol: Each composition is placed in the kiln at 4 different temperatures: 4°C, ambient temperature, 37°C, and 45°C.
  • organoleptic checks for appearance, color, and smell were conducted.
  • Comparative composition with 2% glyceryl stearate by weight the resulting stabilities are non-compliant because the gel obtained is cloudy and not opaque.
  • Composition C2 according to the invention (3% glyceryl stearate by weight): the resulting stabilities are compliant because the gel obtained is opaque.
  • composition according to the invention with 4% glyceryl stearate by weight the resulting stabilities are compliant because the gel obtained is opaque.
  • Comparative composition with 6% glyceryl stearate by weight The resulting stabilities are non-compliant because a phase shift of the gel is observed.
  • compositions according to the invention comprising a quantity strictly greater than 2% by weight and strictly less than 6% by weight of glyceryl stearate in relation to the total weight of the composition, are stable and opaque.
  • ingredients other than glyceryl stearate are stable and opaque.
  • compositions identical to composition C2 of the invention were prepared according to the protocol described in example 1 , but containing the ingredients below instead of glyceryl stearate.
  • composition with 1% by weight of sunflower oil (the composition is emulsified with this oil): the composition is unstable, a creaming is observed.
  • compositions comprising kaolin
  • a gelling agent xanthan gum at either 0.2% or 0.5%, or carrageenan at 0.2% or 0.5%; 4 compositions total
  • compositions with 1 % or 1 .7% by weight of microcrystalline cellulose (Avicel® PC611 microcrystalline cellulose): the compositions are unstable; a creaming is observed.
  • compositions comprising microcrystalline cellulose
  • a gelling agent xanthan gum at either 0.2% or 0.5%, or carrageenan at 0.2% or 0.5%; 4 compositions total: the compositions are unstable.
  • compositions according to the invention comprising glyceryl stearate, are stable.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: an aqueous phase, at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from the betaines, at least one anionic surfactant chosen from the alkyl sulfates, and a quantity of glyceryl stearate that is strictly greater than 2% by weight and strictly less than 6% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, in which the quantity of alkyl sulfate is greater than the quantity of glyceryl stearate, which is in turn greater than the quantity of betaine.

Description

Cleansing cosmetic composition comprising surfactants
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly a cleansing cosmetic composition for the skin and appendages, preferably a shower gel or a cleansing product for the face, body, hands, and/or hair, comprising an aqueous phase and a combination of specific surfactants.
Skin cleansing is very important for skin care. It should offer the highest possible performance, because fatty residues such as excess sebum or residues from cosmetic products used on a daily basis accumulate in the folds of the skin and can obstruct the skin's pores and cause pimples. A means for correctly cleansing the skin is to use foaming cleansing products.
Foaming cleansing products currently commercially available have the form of cakes, gels or foaming liquids. They generally contain either soaps, which have the advantage of yielding a rich and voluminous foam, but which can cause tightness due to their excessive detergence; or they contain syndet-type foaming surfactants and stabilizers, which are associated with each other. Furthermore, using the foaming cleansing products currently available on the market can cause a tingling effect and/or eye or skin irritation.
Users are increasingly looking for new cleansing and/or products for keratinous tissues, preferably the skin, having an attractive visual appearance, particularly a pearly appearance, and which therefore have a certain degree of opacity. Such an opacity is particularly attractive in the case of hygiene products, such as shower gels.
Consequently, there is a need for cleansing and/or care compositions for keratinous tissues, preferably the skin, that are opaque and which have good eye and skin tolerance, while having the ability to foam, be stable, and provide a protective and/or hydrating film for the skin.
The purpose of the present invention is to propose such compositions without the drawbacks of the prior art and with good usage qualities (foaming capacity, consistency, rinsing speed, skin hydration after drying), as well as good eye and skin tolerance, plus an opaque appearance. The inventors have demonstrated that a composition comprising an amphoteric surfactant chosen from the betaines, an anionic surfactant chosen from the alkyl sulfates, and glyceryl stearate, achieves a cosmetic composition, particularly a shower gel, that meets these needs while being stable. The compositions according to the invention have good usage qualities and have an opaque and/or pearly appearance.
A composition having an “opaque and/or pearly” appearance means a composition which is neither transparent nor limpid as determined by the naked eye.
More specifically, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: an aqueous phase, at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from the betaines, at least one anionic surfactant chosen from the alkyl sulfates, a quantity of glyceryl stearate that is strictly greater than 2% by weight and strictly less than 6% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, and in which the quantity of alkyl sulfate is greater than the quantity of glyceryl stearate, which is in turn greater than the quantity of betaine.
The invention also relates to a method for cleansing keratinous tissues, particularly the skin of the body or face or the hair or hands, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition as defined above to said keratinous tissues.
The term “keratinous tissues” refers to the skin (body, face, around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips, and/or mucous membranes.
The term “cosmetically acceptable medium” refers to any medium compatible with the skin and/or integuments thereof, having a pleasant color, odor and texture and not giving rise to unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), liable to dissuade the consumer from using the composition.
Aqueous phase
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase contains water. The water used can be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and/or a spring or natural mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, water from the Vichy basin, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les- Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water, and Avene water.
The aqueous phase may contain at least one organic solvent that is soluble or miscible in water.
The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for the invention comprise short-chain monoalcohols, for example at C1 -C4, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol; polyols such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, preferably at least one polyol.
Preferably, the aqueous phase accounts for 20% to 97% by weight, preferably 30% to 95% by weight, and even more preferably 40% to 90% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 30% by weight of water, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably 42% to 90% by weight.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 0.1% to 15% by weight of organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.7% to 5% by weight.
Amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type
The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from the betaines. The ampoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of the betaine type of the invention are preferably chosen from:
- the betaine alkyls, particularly lauryl betaine, such as, for example, the GENAGEN KB® product by CLARIANT, or coco-betaine, such as, for example, the Dehyton AB 30® product by BASF or TEGO Betain AB 1214 by Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH; the N-alkylamido betaines and their derivatives, particularly cocamidopropyl betaine (for example LEBON 2000 HG® by SANYO or EMPIGEN BB® by ALBRIGHT ET WILSON or Dehyton PK 45), lauramidopropyl betaine (for example REWOTERIC AMB12P® by WITCO), or N-disodium N-carboxyethoxyethyl N- cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate; for example MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® by RHODIA CHIMIE);
- sultaines, such as cocoyl amidopropyl hydroxy-sulfobetaine (for example CROSULTAINE C-500 by CRODA);
- and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is chosen from the betaine alkyls and the N-alkylamido betaines, preferably from the N-alkylamido betaines, more preferably from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine, and mixtures thereof.
The content of active material as amphoteric surfactant chosen from the alkyl betaines is preferably between 1 % and 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1.2% and 10% by weight, and preferably between 1.5% and 5% by weight.
Anionic surfactant chosen from the alkyl sulfates
The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from the alkyl sulfates.
Of the anionic surfactants of the alkyl sulfate type, the preference is to use the alkyl sulfate salts and the mixtures thereof, particularly in the form of salts of alkaline metals (Na or K) or alkaline-earth metals (for example Mg), or of ammonium, amine or amino-alcohol, and the mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from the ammonium salts.
Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is ammonium lauryl sulfate. The ammonium lauryl sulfate is the ammonium salt of lauryl alcohol sulfate ester, which generally has the formula CH3(CH2)IOCH2OS03NH4.
The INCI name is ammonium lauryl sulfate.
A preferred ammonium lauryl sulfate according to the present invention is the one marketed by ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ under the name SULFETAL LA B - RSPO - MB or SULFETAL LA B, by PCC EXOL under the name ROSULFAN A MB or ROSULFAN A, or by INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS under the name EMPICOL AL 30 I FL3 I MB or EMPICOL AL 30 / FL3.
The content of active material of alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant is preferably at least equal to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferable between 5% and 20% by weight, and preferably between 6% and 15% by weight.
Glyceryl stearate
The composition according to the invention also comprises glyceryl stearate.
The glyceryl stearate may be chosen from glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearates, glyceryl tristearates, and the mixtures thereof.
Worth mentioning are the glyceryl stearate marketed under the name CUTINA GMS V by Cognis, or Tegin M Pellets by Goldschmidt, or the mixture of glyceryl mono- and distearate marketed by STEARINERIE DUBOIS under the name DUB GMS 50/50.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of glyceryl mono-, di-, and tristearates (such as Tegin M Pellets MB).
According to the invention, the glyceryl stearate is present in a quantity that is strictly greater than 2% by weight and strictly less than 6% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the glyceryl stearate is present in a quantity of between 2.1% and 5.5% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 2.7% and 4% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
In addition, in the composition according to the invention the quantity of alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant is greater than the quantity of glyceryl stearate, which is in turn greater than the quantity of betaine amphoteric surfactant. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition:
- a content of active material as alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant of between 5.5% and 20% by weight, preferably between 6% and 15% by weight;
- a content of active material as glyceryl stearate of between 2.1 % and 5.5% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 2.7% and 4% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition; and
- a content of active material as amphoteric surfactant chosen from the alkyl betaines of between 1 % and 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1.2% and 4% by weight, and preferably between 1 .5% and 3.5% by weight.
Preferably, in the composition according to the invention the total quantity of active material of surfactants is between 6% and 30% by weight, preferably between 8% and 25% by weight, preferably between 10% and 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a salt, namely an electrolyte.
The electrolyte may be chosen from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate. The electrolyte is preferably sodium chloride.
Preferably, the content of active material as electrolyte is between 0.2% and 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, and preferably between 0.7% and 2% by weight.
The compositions that comply with the present invention may further comprise conventional cosmetic additives chosen, for instance, from the preservatives, scents, pH adjusters, oils, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, moisturizers, anti-foaming agents, active ingredients, fillers, propellants, or any other ingredient customarily used in the field of cosmetics and/or dermatology.
For the oils, let us mention vegetal oils such as olive oil, safflower oil, cumin oil and particularly black cumin oil (nigella), sweet almond oil, or essential oils such as mint essential oil or peppermint essential oil. These oils may be present with a quantity of active material of between 0.0001 % and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 0.5% by weight.
For the ionic or non-ionic thickeners, let us mention for example:
- the polysaccharide biopolymers such as pectin, carob gum, gum arabic, xanthan gum, guar gum and its derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, in particular the one marketed under the name Jaguar HP105 by Rhodia, the scleroglucans, the derivatives of chitin and chitosan, the carrageenans, which may be a mixture of iota, lambda, and kappa carrageenans, the gellans, the alginates, the starches or modified celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and hydroxyethylcellulose, such as the product marketed under the name Natrosol 250HHR by Aquaion;
- the modified or non-modified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products marketed under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by Goodrich;
- the polyacrylamides;
- the polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), possibly cross-linked and/or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanel sulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the name “Hostacerin AMPS” (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide);
- the cross-linked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS occurring in the form of a W/H emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name : Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name : Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC;
- the copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex AVC;
- and mixtures thereof.
Obviously, a person skilled in the art would take care to select the optional complementary compound(s) cited above and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the compositions according to the invention are not, or substantially not, impaired by the envisaged addition(s). The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to " are to be understood to be inclusive of the limits, unless specified otherwise.
The following examples illustrate the invention without being limiting in any way. In these examples, the quantities of ingredients are given as a weight % of active material in relation to the total weight of the composition.
EXAMPLES Example 1 : Preparation of compositions according to the invention
Compositions C1 to C3 of the invention were prepared by mixing the ingredients in water:
In particular, the glyceryl stearate is first heated and then all the ingredients are mixed into the water.
[Table 1]
Example 2: Preparation and evaluation of composition according to the invention and comparative compositions
1/ With different contents of glyceryl stearate:
Compositions identical to composition C2 of the invention were prepared according to the protocol described in example 1 , but containing 2%, 4%, or 6% by weight of glyceryl stearate (instead of 3% by weight for C2), respectively, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
The stability of each composition was evaluated according to the following protocol: Each composition is placed in the kiln at 4 different temperatures: 4°C, ambient temperature, 37°C, and 45°C.
For each temperature, organoleptic checks for appearance, color, and smell were conducted.
For each temperature, physical and chemical tests of pH and viscosity were performed.
The results are as follows:
Comparative composition with 2% glyceryl stearate by weight: the resulting stabilities are non-compliant because the gel obtained is cloudy and not opaque.
Composition C2 according to the invention (3% glyceryl stearate by weight): the resulting stabilities are compliant because the gel obtained is opaque.
Composition according to the invention with 4% glyceryl stearate by weight: the resulting stabilities are compliant because the gel obtained is opaque.
Comparative composition with 6% glyceryl stearate by weight: The resulting stabilities are non-compliant because a phase shift of the gel is observed.
These results show that only the compositions according to the invention, comprising a quantity strictly greater than 2% by weight and strictly less than 6% by weight of glyceryl stearate in relation to the total weight of the composition, are stable and opaque. 2/ With ingredients other than glyceryl stearate:
Compositions identical to composition C2 of the invention were prepared according to the protocol described in example 1 , but containing the ingredients below instead of glyceryl stearate.
The stability of each composition was evaluated according to the protocol described above.
The results are as follows:
- Comparative composition with 1% by weight of sunflower oil (the composition is emulsified with this oil): the composition is unstable, a creaming is observed.
- Comparative compositions with 5% by weight of cetyl alcohol, or 10% by weight of cetyl alcohol, or 5% by weight of stearyl alcohol or 10% by weight of stearyl alcohol (4 compositions total): difficulties in reproducing the preparation method and a poorly-formed foam are observed.
- Comparative composition with 0.5% kaolin by weight (ImerCare® Opaque by Imerys): the composition is unstable; a mottling and settling of this filler are observed.
To this comparative composition comprising kaolin is added a gelling agent (xanthan gum at either 0.2% or 0.5%, or carrageenan at 0.2% or 0.5%; 4 compositions total) in order to create a network and for the filler to be kept in suspension: the compositions are unstable.
- Comparative compositions with 1 % or 1 .7% by weight of microcrystalline cellulose (Avicel® PC611 microcrystalline cellulose): the compositions are unstable; a creaming is observed.
To these comparative compositions comprising microcrystalline cellulose is added a gelling agent (xanthan gum at either 0.2% or 0.5%, or carrageenan at 0.2% or 0.5%; 4 compositions total): the compositions are unstable.
- Comparative composition with 0.6% ethylcellulose by weight: the composition is unstable.
- Comparative composition with 3% glyceryl caprylate by weight: the composition is unstable.
These results show that only the compositions according to the invention, comprising glyceryl stearate, are stable.

Claims

1 . A cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: an aqueous phase, at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from the betaines, at least one anionic surfactant chosen from the alkyl sulfates, and a quantity of glyceryl stearate that is strictly greater than 2% by weight and strictly less than 6% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, in which the quantity of alkyl sulfate is greater than the quantity of glyceryl stearate, which is in turn greater than the quantity of betaine.
2. The composition according to claim 1 , characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, preferably at least one polyol.
3. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from the betaine alkyls and N-alkylamido betaines, preferably from the N-alkylamido betaines.
4. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from cocam idopropyl betaine, coco-betaine, and the mixtures thereof.
5. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is present in a content of active material of between 1% and 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1.2% and 10% by weight, and preferably between 1 .5% and 5% by weight.
6. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is chosen from the salts of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals, of ammonium, of amine, or of amino-alcohol and the mixtures thereof.
7. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is chosen from the ammonium salts.
8. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is ammonium lauryl sulfate.
9. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is present in a content of active material of at least 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 5% and 20% by weight, and preferably between 6% and 15% by weight.
10. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the glyceryl stearate is present in a quantity of between 2.1 % and 5.5% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the glyceryl stearate is present in a quantity of between 2.7% and 4% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 11 , characterized in that the composition comprises, by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a content of active material as alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant of between 5.5% and 20% by weight; a content of active material as glyceryl stearate of between 2.1% and 5.5% by weight, preferably between 2.5% and 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition; and a content of active material as amphoteric surfactant chosen from the alkyl betaines of between 1 % and 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 .2% and 4% by weight.
13. The composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the composition comprises, by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a content of active material as alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant of between 6% and 15% by weight; a content of active material as glyceryl stearate of between 2.7% and 4% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition; and a content of active material as amphoteric surfactant chosen from the alkyl betaines of between 1 .5% and 3.5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
14. A method for cleansing keratinic tissues, comprising the application of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 13 to said keratinic tissues.
EP21789769.3A 2020-10-16 2021-10-15 Cleansing cosmetic composition comprising surfactants Pending EP4228592A1 (en)

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RO127269B1 (en) * 2010-10-04 2013-10-30 Liviu Andronovici Hydroalcoholic rose solution
FR3049855A1 (en) * 2016-04-12 2017-10-13 Oleon Nv MULTIPLE EMULSION
CN108066230A (en) * 2016-11-08 2018-05-25 徐锋 A kind of skin-moisturizing, skin shower cream
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