EP4216914A1 - Spray de soins à deux phases pour les cheveux - Google Patents

Spray de soins à deux phases pour les cheveux

Info

Publication number
EP4216914A1
EP4216914A1 EP21772738.7A EP21772738A EP4216914A1 EP 4216914 A1 EP4216914 A1 EP 4216914A1 EP 21772738 A EP21772738 A EP 21772738A EP 4216914 A1 EP4216914 A1 EP 4216914A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair treatment
hair
weight
treatment composition
composition according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21772738.7A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jens Delowsky
Sylvia KERL
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP4216914A1 publication Critical patent/EP4216914A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the application describes hair treatment agents in the form of a two-phase system with an oil and a water phase in the form of two separate, optically recognizable continuous phases with a common horizontal phase boundary, which contain a specific mixture of at least two different esters in the oil phase.
  • the application also describes a method for hair conditioning using the hair treatment agent and the use of the hair treatment agent to improve specific care properties of hair.
  • Two-phase hair conditioners have been known from the prior art for a long time and are highly valued by consumers because of their attractive appearance and ease of use.
  • leave-on products which are applied to the hair (preferably sprayed) and care for it, preferably immediately after the two phases have been mixed for a short time.
  • WO 2010/069995 describes two-phase products with a high polyol content in the water phase, which contain at least 5% by weight of a non-silicone oil (e.g. paraffins and/or isoparaffins) in the oil phase.
  • a non-silicone oil e.g. paraffins and/or isoparaffins
  • WO 2020/126219 describes silicone-free two-phase hair treatment agents which contain isoparaffins and at least two different esters.
  • the present application was therefore based on the object of providing essentially silicone and mineral oil-free hair treatment agents in the form of two-phase systems with high care performance, which ensure an optimal balance between long-lasting and lasting care and good (scalp) compatibility.
  • the hair treatment agents should have the highest possible water content while maintaining the same care performance and, in particular, should give previously damaged and/or dry and/or split hair more shine, suppleness, a soft, silky feel and improved detangleability and combability.
  • a further aim was to make available two-phase hair treatment compositions which, even after regular use, do not weigh down the hair and which make the hair shinier and easier to shape and style.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention have a demonstrable conditioning advantage on hair treated therewith.
  • the combability, the shine of the hair and the feel of the hair, in particular previously stressed and/or damaged hair could be significantly improved using the agents according to the invention. They therefore have at least equivalent care properties to conventional two-phase hair care products comprising silicones and/or mineral oils.
  • Hair treated with agents according to the invention has an overall healthier visual appearance.
  • a first subject of the invention is a hair treatment agent in the form of a two-phase system with two separate, optically recognizable continuous phases with a common horizontal phase boundary, containing a water phase (I) and an oil phase (II), characterized in that the oil phase (II) - based on their total weight - a mixture of a) 5 to 25% by weight of at least one mono- and/or diester of a branched C4-C12 carboxylic acid and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C24 mono- or dialcohol, and b ) 65 to 90% by weight of at least one carbonic acid ester.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention comprise two optically separate phases which can be homogenized by shaking and which, when at rest, separate again into two separate, optically recognizable continuous phases with a common horizontal phase boundary.
  • the emulsion produced by shaking is optimally stable for up to five, preferably up to three, more preferably up to two and most preferably up to one hour before separating back into the original two phases with a horizontal phase boundary.
  • water phase (I) and the oil phase (II) have lower viscosity values.
  • “lower viscosity values” are preferably to be understood as meaning viscosity values of the water phase (I) and the oil phase (II) of up to a maximum of 1000 mPas, more preferably 600 mPas and in particular 400 mPas (measured at 20° C. with a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 2 at 20 rpm).
  • phases (I) or (II) are transparent.
  • At least one of the two phases (I) and (II) is particularly preferably transparent.
  • “transparency” means that the water phase (I) and/or the oil phase (II) at rest preferably has an NTU value (nephelometry turbidity unit) of at most 100, preferably at most 75, more preferably by has a maximum of 50 and in particular a maximum of 25 (measured, for example, with a turbidimeter of the Turbiquant® type from Merck).
  • NTU value nephelometry turbidity unit
  • the water phase (I) is transparent to slightly cloudy and the oil phase (II) of the care phase is milky-creamy.
  • one of the two phases (I) or (II), preferably the water phase (I), can be colored with a cosmetically acceptable dye.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be sprayed.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are suitable for application from a pump dispenser.
  • An advantage of such an application form is the simple, clean and time-saving handling, because the hair treatment agents can be distributed from a suitable pump dispenser by simply actuating a pump valve as a fine spray and reach all areas of the hair.
  • the ready-to-use (i.e. homogenized by shaking) hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of not more than 1000 mPas, preferably not more than 800 mPas, more preferably not more than 600 mPas and in particular not more than 500 mPas (each measured at 20 ° C with a Brookfield viscometer DV-II, spindle 2 at 20 rpm). Also preferred for such an application form is that according to the invention
  • Hair conditioners are propellant-free.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain a) the aqueous phase (I) in a proportion by weight of at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 85% by weight and in particular at least 88% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition and b) the oil phase (II) in a proportion by weight of at most 20% by weight, preferably at most 15% by weight and in particular at most 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
  • the water phase (I) based on its total weight—comprises at least 85% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight and in particular at least 95% by weight, of water.
  • the oil phase (II) contains a) 5 to 25% by weight of at least one mono- and/or diester of a branched C4-C12 carboxylic acid and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4-C24 mono- or dialcohol, and b ) 65 to 90% by weight of at least one carbonic acid ester.
  • agents according to the invention which predominantly contain the oils a) and b) have excellent hair care performance and long-term stability.
  • the oil phase (II) - based on its total weight - contains at least 75% by weight, preferably at least 77.5% by weight and in particular at least 80% by weight of the oils a) and b) contains.
  • Hair treatment agents according to the invention are also advantageous in which the weight ratio of the esters a):b) is in the range from 1:3 to 1:20, preferably from 1:5 to 1:15 and in particular from 1:6 to 1:12.
  • the hair care performance can thus be tailored to the individual hair type.
  • Suitable esters a) must mix well with esters b) and, as a mixture, have good spreadability and effectiveness on the hair without weighing the hair down.
  • Esters a) which do not leave an oily feeling or an oily film on the hair and/or the scalp are advantageous.
  • Preferred esters a) can be selected from compounds of the formula (I) CH 3 -(CH 2 ) m -(CHR 1 ) n -(CH 2 ) o COO-R 2 (I), in which
  • R 1 is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 8 -alkyl group, m is a number from 3 to 11, n is a number from 1 to 3, o is a number from 0 to 5 and
  • R 2 can represent a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 24 -alkyl group containing one or more -OC(O)-, -NHC(O)- or -C(OH)- groups in the chain can.
  • Esters a) of the formula (I) which are obtainable from crosslinked C 5 -C 8 carboxylic acids and C 12 -C 24 monoalcohols are particularly preferred.
  • esters a) of the formula (I) in which
  • R 1 is a straight-chain C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, very particularly preferably a methyl or ethyl radical, m is a number from 3 to 6, n is the number 1, o is 0 and
  • R 2 represents a straight-chain saturated C 1 -C 18 alkyl group.
  • Esters a) of 2-ethylhexylcarboxylic acid and myristyl, cetyl and/or stearyl alcohol and in particular esters known by the INCI name cetyl ethylhexanoate are even more preferred.
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention contain as ester a) at least one ester of a crosslinked C 5 -C 8 carboxylic acid and a C12-C24 monoalcohol.
  • esters a) of 2-ethylhexylcarboxylic acid and myristyl, cetyl and/or stearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.
  • An ester a) known by the INCI name cetyl ethylhexanoate is particularly preferred.
  • the ester or esters a) are present in the oil phase (II) of the hair treatment composition according to the invention - based on the total weight of the oil phase (II) - preferably in amounts of 6 to 20% by weight and particularly preferably 7 to 17.5% by weight. % used.
  • Suitable esters b) are preferably selected from emollients which can be mixed well with esters a) and which have good spreading properties. As with the ester(s) a), it is advantageous if ester b) does not leave a greasy or sticky film on the scalp and/or the hair and does not weigh the hair down, especially if used frequently. Carbonic acid esters meet these requirements.
  • carbonic acid esters offer the advantage that they work together with esters a) have at least the same conditioning benefits as analogous products based on silicone and/or mineral oil.
  • carbonic acid esters are usually accessible from natural sources, so that the products according to the invention can be used to provide hair care products that are suitable for the so-called clean beauty market.
  • Particularly suitable are symmetrical carbonic acid diesters of carbonic acid and at least one C 3 -C 24 alcohol, more preferably a C 4 -C 20 alcohol, particularly preferably a C 5 -C 16 alcohol and very particularly preferably caprylyl, caprylic and/or or lauryl alcohol.
  • Carbonic acid esters known under the INCI name dicaprylyl carbonate are particularly preferred esters b). Such products are commercially available, for example, under the name Cetiol® CC from BASF.
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention contain at least one symmetrical carbonic acid diester of carbonic acid and at least one C 3 -C 24 alcohol as ester b).
  • esters b) of carbonic acid and caprylyl, caprylic and/or lauryl alcohol are particularly preferred.
  • An ester b) known by the INCI name Dicaprylyl Carbonate is particularly preferred.
  • the ester(s) b) are preferably used in amounts of 70 to 90% by weight and more preferably 75 to 90% by weight in the oil phase (II) of the hair treatment composition according to the invention, based on the total weight of the oil phase (II). .
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention it can be advantageous if further active ingredients are added to them.
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain further active ingredients such as c) solubilizers and/or d) cationic surfactants.
  • Suitable solubilizers c) are preferably understood as meaning active ingredients which have skin and/or hair care and solubilizing properties. At the same time, they must not adversely affect the functionality and/or appearance of the products according to the invention.
  • Alkoxylated mono- and/or diglycerides have proven to be particularly suitable component(s) c) for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.
  • Low ethoxylated mono- and/or diglycerides with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 20 are very particularly preferred.
  • Such products have moisturizing properties and are able to effectively solubilize and stabilize perfume oil components optionally contained in the hair care products, so that - especially at rest - no undesirable formation of streaks and/or clouding of phases (I) and/or (II) or at the phase boundary occurs.
  • suitable components c) support the formation of an emulsion when the hair treatment composition is shaken.
  • component(s) c) known under the INCI name PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.
  • Such products are commercially available, for example, under the name Cetiol® HE from BASF.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain at least one additional component c), selected from alkoxylated mono- and/or diglycerides, in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
  • 5- to 20-fold ethoxylated mono- and/or diglycerides of glycerol and C 6 -C 24 carboxylic acids are particularly preferred component(s) c).
  • a component c) known under the INCI name PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate is particularly preferred.
  • Component(s) c) preferably alkoxylated mono- and/or diglycerides and in particular 5- to 20-tuply ethoxylated mono- and/or diglycerides of glycerol and C 6 -C 24 -carboxylic acids can (can) be particularly preferred in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of 0.3 to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants d) for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably have a high hair care potential, a low tendency to foam and the lowest possible emulsifying power.
  • Particularly suitable cationic surfactants d) for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, physiologically tolerable C 1 -C 24 -alkyltri(C 1 -C 4 )alkylammonium salts, di-C 1 -C 24 -alkyldi( C1-C4 ) -alkylammonium salts or tri-C1-C24-alkyl(C1- C4 ) -alkylammonium salts, for example halide and/or methosulfate salts, in particular chlorides, bromides and methosulfates, such as distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride,
  • cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, cetyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, behenyl trimethyl ammonium bromide and behenyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts which contain a methosulfate and/or a chloride ion as the anion.
  • Such products are commercially available, for example, under the names Dehyquart® A CA from BASF or Genamin® KDMP from Clariant.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) d) can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition. Amounts used are preferably from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain at least one cationic surfactant d) in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
  • hair treatment agents which contain at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, physiologically tolerable C 1 -C 24 -alkyltri(C 1 -C 4 )alkylammonium salt, di-C 1 -C 24 -alkyldi(C 1 -C C 4 )-alkylammonium salt or tri-C 1 -C 24 -alkyl(C 1 -C 4 )-alkylammonium salt.
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention contain at least one component c) and at least one component d), preferably 5- to 20-fold ethoxylated mono- and/or diglycerides of glycerol and C 6 -C 24 -carboxylic acids c) and C 1 - C 24 - alkyltri(C 1 -C 4 )-alkylammonium- , di-C 1 -C 24 -alkyldi(C 1 -C 4 )-alkylammonium- and/or tri-C 1 -C 24 - alkyl(C 1 - C 4 )-alkylammonium salts d).
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention can additionally contain a cationic polymer in a proportion by weight of 0.01 to 1% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment composition to further increase the hair care properties.
  • Suitable cationic polymers for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferably understood as meaning cationic polymers which are known by the I NCI name “polyquaternium”.
  • Particularly suitable cationic polymers are polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-74 and /or Polyquaternium-89.
  • Cationic polymers derived from polymers of natural origin such as cellulose, starch or guar polymers are particularly suitable.
  • Cationic cellulose derivatives are offered, for example, by the company Amerchol under the name Polymer JR® and cationic guar polymers by the company Rhone-Poulenc or Hercules under the names Jaguar® or N-Hance®.
  • cationic polymers of natural origin are, for example, cationic chitosans, which are commercially available, for example, under the names “Kytamer” or “Hydagen”.
  • Quaternium such as Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-18, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium- 30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83 and/or Quaternium-84.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example - cationic alkyl polyglycosides, - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, - vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, - as well as the polymers known under the names polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18 and polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,- vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as third Monomer building blocks are commercially available, for example, under the name Aquaflex® SF 40.
  • Cationic polymers selected from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-74 and/or polyquaternium-89 are particularly preferably used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.
  • they can be advantageous if they contain other active ingredients as long as these do not adversely affect either the stability or the care effect of the two-phase products.
  • the other care ingredients can be contained in the water phase (I) or in the oil phase (II).
  • the agents according to the invention only include care ingredients that are readily soluble in either the water phase (I) or in the oil phase (II) and/or which do not increase the viscosity of phases (I) and/or (II) too much and thereby making it difficult for them to mix and/or separate.
  • Suitable further (care) active ingredients that can be added to the hair treatment agents according to the invention in a proportion by weight of up to 2% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment agent are i) protein hydrolyzates and/or ii) vegetable oils and/or iii) amino acids and/or their physiologically tolerable salts and/or iv) vitamins.
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention contain at least one other hair-conditioning active ingredient selected from i) protein hydrolyzates and/or ii) vegetable oils and/or iii) amino acids and/or their physiologically tolerable salts and/or iv) vitamins, the proportion by weight of one or more components i) to iv) in the total weight of the hair treatment composition is up to 2% by weight.
  • Suitable protein hydrolyzates (PH) for use in the hair treatment agents according to the invention are taken to mean both PH of plant and animal, marine or synthetic origin.
  • Preferred animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).
  • Preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • Suitable protein hydrolysates of maritime origin include, for example, collagen hydrolysates from fish or algae and protein hydrolysates from mussels or pearl hydrolysates. Examples of pearl hydrolyzates suitable according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.
  • Suitable cationized protein hydrolyzates can also be of animal, plant or marine origin.
  • the protein hydrolysates or the amino acids can be quaternized with quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammonium halides.
  • quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized.
  • Typical examples of particularly suitable cationic protein hydrolyzates and/or derivatives thereof are the products known and commercially available under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyze
  • Keratin, silk, milk protein, wheat and/or soy protein hydrolysates that are quaternized are particularly preferred for use in the hair treatment agents according to the invention be able. Keratin and/or wheat and/or silk protein hydrolysates, which can be quaternized, are particularly preferred.
  • the - optionally quaternized - protein hydrolyzates can be used both individually and as a mixture in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.
  • the hair treatment agents contain at least one protein hydrolyzate of animal or vegetable origin and at least one quaternized protein hydrolyzate of animal or vegetable origin.
  • the protein hydrolyzates and/or quaternized protein hydrolyzates can be present in the hair treatment agents according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.0025 to 2% by weight and in particular in amounts of 0.005 to 1% by weight % are used.
  • suitable vegetable oils ii) are amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cotton seed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elder seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, Linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil and/or wild rose oil.
  • Very particularly suitable vegetable oils have a high proportion of triglycerides from unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid and in particular palmitoleic acid, such as avocado oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil and/or macadamia nut oil.
  • the vegetable oil(s) ii) can be present in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention, preferably in a proportion by weight of in each case 0.01 to 2% by weight (more preferably 0.025 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0. 05 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.075 to 0.75% by weight) based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
  • Suitable amino acids iii) can be selected from glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, taurine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, ß-alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3',4
  • Dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-Dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-frans -4-Hydroxyproline, L-5-Oxoproline (L- pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine and/or the physiologically tolerable salts of these amino acids, it being possible to use both the individual amino acids (or their salts) and mixtures.
  • the amino acid(s) or their salt(s) ii) can preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in a proportion by weight of in each case 0.01 to 2% by weight (more preferably 0.025 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.075 to 0.75% by weight) based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
  • Suitable vitamins which are suitable for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives from groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin Az).
  • ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • possible vitamin A components are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.
  • the hair treatment compositions can preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.005-1% by weight, based on the composition as a whole.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u.
  • nicotinic acid and nicotinamide are often referred to under this name.
  • Vitamin Bs pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone.
  • panthenol and/or pantolactone preference is given to using panthenol and/or pantolactone.
  • Derivatives of panthenol that can be used are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • the compounds of the vitamin Bs type mentioned can preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.05-5% by weight, based on the composition as a whole. Amounts of 0.1-2% by weight are particularly preferred
  • Vitamin Be pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C can preferably be used in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 3% by weight, based on the composition as a whole. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucoside or phosphate may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives including in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, can be contained in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.005-1% by weight, based on the composition as a whole.
  • Vitamin F usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid is known as vitamin H, for which the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin can preferably be contained in the hair treatment compositions in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention can particularly preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred and can be added to the hair conditioners according to the invention either individually or in combination in the amounts mentioned above.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain active ingredients for pH regulation, preferably acids such as, in particular, acetic acid, citric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, formic acid, amidosulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acids, D-lactic acid, L-lactic acid, D/L-lactic acid, Oxalic acid or from the group of alkalis, such as in particular caustic soda.
  • acids such as, in particular, acetic acid, citric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, formic acid, amidosulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acids, D-lactic acid, L-lactic acid, D/L-lactic acid, Oxalic acid or from the group of alkalis, such as in particular caustic soda.
  • Hair treatment agents according to the invention advantageously contain active ingredients for pH regulation in amounts of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0.01-3% by weight and in particular 0.01-2% by weight (based on the total weight of the hair treatment agent).
  • lactic acid should be mentioned in particular, because lactic acid can help to regulate skin moisture on the scalp and contribute to color protection in colored hair. It has been found that it is advantageous for particularly good stability of the two phases (I) and (II) of the hair treatment composition according to the invention if they only contain specific surfactants and/or emulsifiers in specific amounts.
  • Stability means that the two phases quickly separate again after mixing and form a sharp horizontal phase boundary at which, ideally, no turbidity occurs over a long period of time and with temperature fluctuations.
  • Surfactants and/or emulsifiers which favor too much the emulsification and/or suspension of the oil phase in the water phase or vice versa are therefore not suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Foam formation when the hair treatment composition according to the invention is shaken immediately before use is also undesirable, which is why surfactants/emulsifiers that tend to form large amounts of foam are also excluded.
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention contain a maximum of 1% by weight, more preferably a maximum of 0.8% by weight, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.6% by weight and in particular a maximum of 0.5% by weight, of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and/or nonionic surfactants (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain no further anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • Hair treatment agents according to the invention which, in addition to the essential and optional ingredients already described, contain a maximum of 0.5% by weight, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.3% by weight and in particular a maximum of 0.1% by weight in their oil phase (II) are therefore particularly advantageous. -% of other oil and/or fat substances included (based on the oil phase (II)).
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain no further oil and/or fatty substances, in particular no fatty alcohols, in addition to the components of the oil phase (II) described earlier in this application.
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention are essentially free from fatty alcohols.
  • Essentially free is understood to mean that the hair treatment compositions according to the invention—based on their total weight—contain a maximum of 0.05% by weight, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.01% by weight and in particular 0% by weight of fatty alcohols. As already stated earlier in this application, it is not necessary for the care effect and the stability of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention to add further components (oil and fat substances) to the oil phase.
  • both silicones and mineral oils can be dispensed with.
  • Perfume oils are not included in the aforementioned oily and fatty substances in this context. These can preferably be present in the oil phase in an amount of 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.15 to 0.9% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2 to 0.8% by weight and in particular 0 .25 to 0.75% by weight (based on the total weight of the oil phase) can be used.
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention can contain other active substances, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example
  • Anti-dandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole
  • Penetration aids and/or swelling agents such as urea, hydantoin and/or their derivatives.
  • the hair conditioners according to the invention preferably have a pH in the range from 2 to 7, preferably from 2.5 to 6 and in particular from 3 to 4.
  • the two-phase hair treatment agents according to the invention have the advantage that they are easy to use and simple to produce.
  • the special combination of active ingredients in the hair treatment products ensures rapid mixing of the two phases before application and rapid separation of the two phases after application.
  • the hydrophilic phase is predominantly water based, which meets consumer needs.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention are also particularly suitable for hair care.
  • the presence of (cyclic) silicones and/or mineral oils is neither for the stability nor for the care properties of the hair treatment preparations are necessary because the hair treatment preparations according to the invention have comparably good conditioning advantages on hair treated therewith compared to preparations containing silicones and/or mineral oils.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be sprayed and are suitable for application from a pump dispenser. This makes them easy to use and effective in their effect, because the fine spray mist emerging from the pump dispenser reaches all areas of the hair.
  • a second subject of the invention is a method for conditioning hair, in which a hair treatment composition according to the invention is applied (preferably sprayed) to wet or dry hair after vigorous shaking and left on the hair until the next hair cleaning.
  • a third subject matter of the invention is the use of the hair treatment agent according to the invention to improve hair care, in particular to improve combability, hair shine and hair feel.
  • compositions (I) and (II) according to the invention and a comparative composition (III) were prepared.
  • compositions (II) and (III) were evaluated by subjects with regard to a number of product and care properties (consistency of the product; spreadability; smell; manageability of wet hair; combability of wet and dry hair; hair feel of wet and dry hair; Formability / manageability; Feel of the hair tips; Static charge; Shine; Bounce; Fullness of the hair; Degree of care; Softness of the hair; Suppleness of the hair).
  • the two products were neutrally packaged and coded, used in equal quantities on three models in a half-side test and assessed by an expert.
  • the straight, untreated hair of Models 1 and 2 had normal (healthy) hair and scalp condition and medium density and hair diameter.
  • the bleached hair of Model 3 was porous, of lower density and hair diameter. Grades from 1 to 6 could be awarded, with grade 1 being bad and grade 6 being very good.
  • composition (II) according to the invention was rated approximately the same as the composition (III) in almost all of the aforementioned categories.
  • composition (II) according to the invention was rated better than the comparative composition (III) containing mineral oils (overall rating (II)—average value: 4.75; Overall rating (III) - average value: 4.65).

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des produits de traitement capillaire se présentant sous la forme d'un système à deux phases comprenant deux phases continues distinctes, reconnaissables visuellement et présentant une limite de phase horizontale commune, contenant une phase aqueuse (I) et une phase huileuse (II), la phase huileuse (II) contenant par rapport à son poids total un mélange de a) 5 à 25 % en poids d'au moins un monoester et/ou diester d'un acide carboxylique en C4-C12 ramifié et d'un monoalcool ou dialcool en C4-C12 linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, et b) 65 à 90 % en poids d'au moins un ester d'acide carbonique. Les produits de traitement selon l'invention conviennent pour l'amélioration des soins capillaires, en particulier pour l'amélioration de la coiffabilité, de la brillance des cheveux et du toucher des cheveux.
EP21772738.7A 2020-09-23 2021-08-31 Spray de soins à deux phases pour les cheveux Pending EP4216914A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102020211880.9A DE102020211880A1 (de) 2020-09-23 2020-09-23 Zweiphasen-Pflegespray für Haare
PCT/EP2021/073951 WO2022063528A1 (fr) 2020-09-23 2021-08-31 Spray de soins à deux phases pour les cheveux

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EP4216914A1 true EP4216914A1 (fr) 2023-08-02

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EP (1) EP4216914A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102020211880A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2022063528A1 (fr)

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2939662B1 (fr) 2008-12-17 2011-02-11 Oreal Composition biphase transparente sans silicones
DE102018221949A1 (de) 2018-12-17 2020-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Silikon-freie Zweiphasen-Haarkur

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