EP4213796A1

EP4213796A1 - Solid hydrating composition

Info

Publication number: EP4213796A1
Application number: EP21810062.6A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Murielle Farigoule; Valérie BOUCHARD DE LA POTERIE
Original assignee: LVMH Recherche GIE
Current assignee: LVMH Recherche GIE
Priority date: 2020-09-21
Filing date: 2021-09-21
Publication date: 2023-07-26
Also published as: FR3114240B1; CN116419739A; KR20230074220A; JP2023542350A; WO2022058698A1; FR3114240A1; US20230329981A1

Abstract

The present invention concerns a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratinous substances, more particularly the skin, in the form of a solid composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: water in a an amount of from 5% to 50% by weight of water, at least one hydroxyl compound selected from polyols, glycol ethers and mixtures thereof, a particulate solid phase comprising at least fillers, and optionally an oily phase comprising at least one oil, said composition being obtainable by a method comprising the following steps: (i) mixing the particulate phase, the hydroxyl compound and the water, and the optional oily phase constituting the liquid phase, to form a paste; and (ii) shaping the paste by compacting and partial removal of the liquid phase, to give the composition in the form of a solid composition.

Description

Moisturizing solid composition

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular the field of moisturizing and fresh solid compositions, particularly intended for cosmetic care and/or for making up the skin and/or the lips.

STATE OF THE ART

Known from the state of the art are moisturizing compositions in liquid form, such as lotions, gels, oil-in-water emulsions, comprising a high rate of aqueous phase and in particular a high rate of water, for impart a fresh and moisturizing effect to the composition.

But to the Applicant's knowledge, there is no equivalent in the field of solid compositions, a fortiori when they contain a powdery phase such as fillers and/or pigments. Cosmetic compositions based on powders, whether in free or compact form, are often characterized by a dry sensation on application to keratin materials. Consumers are looking for more comfort on application, in particular those with dry and/or fragile skin, with a beneficial effect on the skin (care, make-up) without feeling uncomfortable or dry on application.

There is therefore still a need to develop new solid compositions comprising a pulverulent phase (e.g. fillers and/or pigments) intended to provide softness, coverage and/or color to keratin materials, but which are moisturizing and fresh. .

The Applicant has precisely developed moisturizing and fresh solid compositions comprising levels of aqueous phase unequaled in compositions based on pulverulent materials and volatile or non-volatile binders. The solid moisturizing composition of the invention, obtained by a process of the “slurry” type, in fact comprises an aqueous phase in a total content which can range up to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular mode, the composition is obtained by wet process, that is to say that the pulverulent materials and the binder are diluted in a solvent to obtain a paste (otherwise called “slurry”) which is then shaped and dried. 'Slurry' is a term used to designate a cosmetic paste (suspension) composed of a particulate phase (fillers and pigments), a volatile or non-volatile liquid phase to provide smoothness to the powder and a solvent , which will be aspirated and/or partially evaporated during the process. The combination of these elements makes it possible to obtain unprecedented comfort and freshness at the time of application of the composition to the skin, and produces both a visually attractive makeup effect and a skincare effect, in especially by improving their state of hydration.

By “composition” according to the invention, we will generally mean the final cosmetic composition obtained according to the process of the invention, to be distinguished from the paste or slurry, which is obtained in an intermediate step of the process.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

An object of the invention is to propose new compositions comprising a solid phase consisting of powders, water, and at least one hydroxylated compound chosen from polyols, glycol ethers and mixtures thereof, which has a moisturizing effect on keratin materials. The composition may additionally comprise, optionally, an oily phase to improve the texture.

By “solid composition” according to the invention is meant in particular a composition having a hardness ranging from 100 to 500 Gf (Gram force), in particular from 200 to 400 Gf (Gram force). The hardness of a composition can be measured according to the following protocol.

The hardness is measured using a TÀ.XT PLUS TEXTURE ANALYSER (STABLE MICROSYSTEMS) texturometer, equipped with a rod on which is fixed a cylinder with a diameter of 5 mm which is applied to the surface of the compact. The cylinder penetration force is measured over a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 0.5 mm/second.

By 'solid moisturizing composition' according to the invention is meant in particular a composition conferring a positive variation in hydration of the skin to which the composition is applied, in particular a variation ranging from +1% to +40%, in particular +5 % to +30%, or even +10% to +25%. This variation in hydration can in particular be evaluated by the following protocol.

The hydration is measured by corneometry, using a CORNEOMETER CM825 device supplied by the company Courage & Khazaka SN “NUM_SERIE”, which the person skilled in the art knows. The method for measuring the hydration of the stratum corneum is based on the creation of an electric field on the surface of the skin and the detection, using electrodes, of variations in the dielectric constant induced by the state of hydration of the upper layer of the epidermis (cf Measurement of the electrical properties is recognized as an objective method of assessing stratum corneum hydration (E. Berardesca - EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods - Skin Research and Technology 1997 ; 3: 126-132). The composition is applied to the forearm of a volunteer. The amount applied corresponds to 2 pl/cm2 of skin. The area of application is then protected from rubbing with the aid of a plastic disc 5 cm in diameter and 1 cm in height fixed with a band-aid A measurement is taken on the application area, before application of the composition, then 6 hours after said application of the composition, leaving a 15 minute period stabilization test after removal of the anti-friction protection, before the measurement. The residual film of the composition is wiped from the application area. The variation in hydration is calculated from the measurements carried out according to the method described above.

By “fresh composition” is meant according to the invention a composition producing, at the time of its application to the skin, a feeling of freshness, felt by the user as pleasant and providing well-being. This sensation of freshness is produced in particular by the evaporation of the water in the composition at the time of its application.

The solid composition of the invention advantageously has a creamy and moisturizing nature on removal and on application to keratin materials, unlike conventional compact powders characterized by a powdery and dry appearance.

For this purpose, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, is proposed in the form of a solid moisturizing composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable, at least: water in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one hydroxylated compound chosen from polyols, glycol ethers and mixtures thereof, a phase particulate solid comprising at least fillers, and optionally an oily phase comprising at least one oil, said composition being capable of being obtained by a process comprising the steps following steps: (i) mixing the particulate phase, and the hydroxy compound, water and the optional oily phase constituting the liquid phase, to form a paste; and (ii) shaping the paste by compacting and partial removal of the liquid phase to obtain the composition in the form of a solid composition.

The shaping of the dough may or may not be carried out in a container.

Preferably, said composition is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: (i) mixing the particulate phase, and the hydroxylated compound, water and the optional oily phase constituting the liquid phase, to form a paste; and (ii) shaping of the paste by compacting and partial elimination of the liquid phase (consisting of volatile and/or non-volatile liquids) to obtain the composition in the form of a solid composition.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined according to the invention. .

By “keratin materials” according to the invention, is meant the skin and/or its appendages, and the lips. In particular, it will be the skin of the face, neck and/or body, and lips. In particular, we mean healthy keratin materials, that is to say not presenting any disorders or disorders that would be part of a pathological state ('non-healthy' subjects, suffering from a pathology).

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The invention therefore relates, according to a first aspect, to a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a solid composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: water in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one hydroxylated compound chosen from polyols, glycol ethers and mixtures thereof, a particulate solid phase comprising at least loads, and optionally an oily phase comprising at least one oil, said composition being capable of being obtained by a process comprising the following steps: (i) mixing the particulate phase, and the hydroxylated compound, water and the optional oily phase constituting the liquid phase, to form a paste; and (ii) shaping the paste by compacting and partial removal of the liquid phase to obtain the composition in the form of a solid composition.

The shaping of the paste may or may not be carried out in a container, such as a silicone mold or a cup.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: (i) mixing of the particulate phase, and of the hydroxylated compound, of water and of the optional oily phase constituting the phase liquid, to form a paste; and (ii) shaping the paste by compacting and partial removal of the liquid phase to obtain the composition in the form of a solid composition.

By ‘partial elimination of the liquid phase (present in the paste)’ according to the invention, it is meant that the solid moisturizing composition obtained comprises a final level of water sufficient to give it the desired moisturizing properties. The liquid phase consists of water, the hydroxy compound and any additional volatile and non-volatile solvents and binders (oils). Thus, the liquid phase according to the invention may consist of volatile liquids and/or liquids which are not volatile at room temperature. The rest of the description will refer to elimination of the liquid phase or elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid.

This elimination step is controlled so as to obtain the final percentage of water sought in the composition. We will thus speak of “controlled elimination” or “controlled aspiration” in the illustrative examples of the invention.

This step of partial elimination of the liquid phase makes it possible to eliminate the liquid phase in a controlled manner in order to solidify the composition. The partial elimination of the liquid phase can be carried out with mechanical means such as suction, or thermal means such as heat.

The partial elimination of the liquid phase can also comprise the combination of the means described above. Thus, in accordance with a variant of the process of the invention, the partial elimination of the liquid phase contained in the paste comprises mechanical elimination followed by thermal elimination. The method may for example comprise two successive steps: the partial drying of the paste using mechanical removal means to obtain a wet powder, and the drying of the wet powder by thermal means. The mechanical elimination can be carried out by suction under a press, and the thermal elimination can be carried out, for example, by drying in an oven, preferably at a temperature below 70° C., more preferably still below 60° C.

Thus the moisturizing solid composition will comprise a content of 5% to 50% of water relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular mode, the partial elimination of the liquid phase is done by suction under vacuum, at room temperature and in particular with a compression pressure between 1 and 4 bars and a suction pressure between 1 and 4 bars (limits included) .

A person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the duration of this step to optimize the partial elimination of the liquid phase. According to a particular mode, the partial elimination of the liquid phase is done by suction under vacuum, at room temperature at a compression pressure of 1 to 2 bars and a suction pressure of 1 to 2 bars, for 3 to 20 seconds. , in particular a compression pressure of 2 bars and a suction pressure of 1 bar for 20 seconds.

The paste can include a higher or lower proportion of liquid depending on the duration and the means of elimination used.

The water thus preferably represents from 10% to 70% by weight by weight of the paste, and from 5% to 50% by weight of the final solid composition according to the invention.

Thus, the water content of the solid compositions of the invention will generally range from 5% to 50% by weight of water, in particular from 10% to 45% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.

By “physiologically acceptable medium”, is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips.

LIQUID PHASE

The liquid phase according to the invention may consist of volatile liquids and/or liquids which are not volatile at room temperature.

Water

The moisturizing solid composition of the invention comprises at least water. The water content of the solid moisturizing compositions of the invention will generally range from 5% to 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the water content in the composition of the invention ranges from 10% to 50%, in particular from 20% to 45%, or even from 30% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydroxy compound

Polyols and glycol ethers

The solid moisturizing composition of the invention comprises a liquid phase comprising at least one hydroxylated compound chosen from a polyol, a glycol ether and mixtures thereof. We can cite in particular:

- C3-C6 polyols, for example a C3-C6 aliphatic diol (or glycol) such as propane-1,2-diol (or propylene glycol), propane-1,3-diol, a butylene glycol, pentylene glycol (pentane-1,5-diol), or a triol such as glycerol,

- a glycol ether or an aromatic alcohol such as phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one C3-C5 polyol, preferably glycerol.

The total content of polyol(s) and/or glycol ether(s) in the solid moisturizing composition of the invention will in particular range from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the total content of polyol(s) and/or glycol ether(s), in particular of glycerol, ranges from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 8% to 15% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular and preferred mode, the water will be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably between 20% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the glycerol will be present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 45% by weight, preferably between 5% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil phase (optional) The liquid phase of the composition according to the invention may additionally comprise, optionally, an oily phase comprising at least one oil.

The term “oily phase” means an oil or a mixture of oils which are miscible with each other.

By “oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.

These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

The oily phase can comprise binders of various kinds such as fatty esters, silicones, hydrocarbon oils, butters, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, fatty esters, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof will be used.

These ingredients play the role of binders of the particulate solid phase at the time of compaction of the dough and provide cohesion, and in terms of texture, creaminess, comfort on application and a care side, non-drying to the powder.

As hydrocarbon-based oils, mention may in particular be made of linear or branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, synthetic C10- C40, C12-C26 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 higher fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made of isononyl isonanoate, pentaerythrityl triisostearate, iso-hexyl neopentanoate or a hydrocarbon such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane ( CM) OR the undecane-tridecane mixture.

As silicone oils, mention may in particular be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils, phenyl or non-phenyl silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

Structuring agents

The composition of the invention may optionally comprise structuring or gelling agents of the liquid phase, in particular hydrophilic gelling agents (or suspending agents), pasty fatty substances or waxes, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

By way of “hydrophilic gelling agents”, mention may in particular be made of acrylic acid polymers, polysaccharide gelling agents such as alginates, xanthan gums, carrageenan gums, agar gums, guar gums, gellan, sclerotium gums, chitosans, mannans, cellulose derivatives, gelatin, pectins, mineral gelling agents such as bentones or modified silicas, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the solid moisturizing composition also comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from a bentonite gel, a hectorite gel, and mixtures thereof.

Film forming agents

The composition may also advantageously comprise a film-forming agent, preferably a film-forming polymer.

Film-forming polymer means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support. In the text, the word polymer can denote a homopolymer or a copolymer. By "copolymer" is meant a polymer comprising at least two monomers or two different blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure.

The film-forming agents have an ability to form a film on the surface of the skin at the time of application of the composition, and make it possible to obtain an improvement in the hold over time and in the resistance to sebum, to perspiration or mechanical constraints, in particular related to facial movements. The formation of this film thus makes it possible to improve and prolong the hold of the composition, and therefore the effect produced by said composition, but also to give it a so-called “non-transfer” property.

The compositions according to the invention comprising at least one such film-forming agent are referred to as “long-wearing” and/or “non-transferring”.

These film-forming agents can be dissolved in a liquid phase according to their affinity or else be dispersed in the form of particles or latex in a phase in which they are insoluble.

These film-forming agents are advantageously polymers which can be hydrophilic in nature and thus have an affinity for the aqueous phase, or hydrophobic in nature and have an affinity for the optional oily phase of the composition.

The hydrophilic nature is in particular conferred by the presence of oxygen or nitrogen atoms in the molecule, in the form of hydroxylated, carboxylic, acrylics, esters, amides, urethanes or other groups comprising heteroatoms or else an ether or ketone function.

The hydrophobic nature is linked to the absence of oxygen or nitrogen atoms and more generally of heteroatoms in the molecule, and the exclusive presence of hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic, linear or branched.

Hydrophilic film-forming agents can advantageously be chosen from synthetic compounds such as polyurethanes and their derivatives, and more particularly aqueous dispersions of polyurethane which may have a solids content (dry matter) of 20 to 60% by weight, in particular polyurethane -35, polyalkylenes, such as polyisoprene.

Such polyurethane dispersions are for example Polyurethane-34 sold under the commercial references Baycusan® C1000, C1001 by the company BAYER, and Polyurethane-35, which comprises 41% polyurethane in dry matter in dispersion in water, sold under the commercial reference Baycusan® C1004 by the company BAYER (COVESTRO).

One can also advantageously choose hydrophilic film-forming agents from natural compounds or compounds of natural origin, such as native or chemically modified polysaccharides, and in particular pullulan or one of its derivatives, a starch or one of its derivatives and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a hydrophilic film-forming polymer, advantageously chosen from native or chemically modified polysaccharides.

According to a particularly preferred variant, the film-forming polymer is chosen from pullulan or its derivatives, a starch or its derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl starch.

A particularly preferred starch derivative is hydroxypropyl starch (INCI Hydroxypropyl Starch)

According to a particularly preferred variant, the composition comprises at least one polyol or one polyol ether and at least one hydrophilic film-forming agent.

The hydrophilic film-forming polymer may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition. The percentage of hydrophobic film-forming polymer is expressed as % by weight of dry extract (dry matter or active matter, my) relative to the total weight of the composition. In addition, the composition may comprise at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, to improve the hold properties of the film of the composition on the skin.

Hydrophobic or fat-soluble film-forming polymer means a film-forming polymer dissolved in the optional oily phase of the composition.

The hydrophobic film-forming polymer can be of natural or synthetic origin, and is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of:

- trimethylsiloxysilicates such as Belsil TMS 803 (WACKER), KF7312 from Shin Etsu

- phenylalkylsiloxysilicates in which the alkyl group preferably comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate,

- silicone acrylate polymers such as acrylate/dimethicone copolymers, and in particular acrylate/dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as for example KP-545 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate/dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone (such as for example KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate/dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as, for example, KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, and in particular acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in dimethicone (such as, for example, FA-4003 DM from Dow Corning®), acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in isododecane (such as example the FA-4004 ID from Dow Corning®),

- polyalkylsilsesquioxanes comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably polymethylsilsesquioxane (such as, for example, Silform® Flexible Resin from Momentive),

- trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulans in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (such as for example TSPL-30-ID from Shin-Etsu),

- copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as copolymers of VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/styrene,

- copolymers of a vinyl ester, and preferably copolymers of vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/octadecylvinylether , vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/octadecene-1 , vinyl acetate/dodecene-1 , vinyl stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate vinyl/allyl acetate, dimethyl-2,2- vinyl octanoate/vinyl laurate, allyl dimethyl-2,2-pentanoate/vinyl laurate, dimethyl vinyl propionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl stearate,

- polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of a enes comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes,

- alkylcelluloses, and preferably alkylcelluloses carrying an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose,

- polyvinyl alcohols, and

- their mixtures.

The hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition. The percentage of hydrophobic film-forming polymer is expressed as % by weight of dry extract (dry matter or active matter, a.i.) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

The composition can also comprise at least one additional ingredient chosen from dyes, surfactants, perfumes, electrolytes, antioxidants, preservatives, and physical and/or chemical UV filters.

The composition of the invention can advantageously incorporate any type of cosmetic active ingredient, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic. The preferred active agents are chosen from the group consisting of active agents having a moisturizing activity such as hyaluronic acid or ceramides, active agents having an anti-aging activity; active ingredients with a smoothing activity and on the radiance of the complexion; active agents having a depigmenting activity or a skin lightening activity; active agents having a slimming activity; active agents having a moisturizing activity; active agents having a soothing or relaxing activity; and their mixtures.

The composition is advantageously devoid of surfactant, because it is not necessary, unlike the powders of the prior art obtained by pasting powdery materials with water, to use a surfactant to guarantee a good homogeneity of the dough. Thus, according to a particular mode, the surfactant content in the composition of the invention will be less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention does not comprise a surfactant.

PARTICULAR SOLID PHASE

The particulate phase consists of a mixture of particles of different shapes: rods, platelets and spherical. According to a particular mode, the fillers in the form of platelets are in high proportion in the cosmetic formulas of the invention. To these white fillers can be added texture and touch agents such as spherical fillers to provide glide. The goal is to optimize the ratio of the different powders so that they compact while maintaining a satisfactory sensoriality: gliding, pick-up and softness properties.

The particulate solid phase advantageously consists of a mixture of pulverulent materials comprising at least one pigment and/or at least one filler. The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and pearlescent pigments.

According to a particular mode, the composition comprises at least one filler.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one filler and at least one pigment.

Expenses

The fillers can be mineral or organic, and of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong.

According to a particular embodiment, the fillers are chosen from platelet fillers, spherical fillers and mixtures thereof.

The fillers advantageously have an average diameter greater than 100 nanometers (nm) and less than 200 micrometers (µm), and more particularly a diameter comprised between 5 to 150 µm.

According to a variant implementation of the invention, the fillers can be treated so as to modify their surface condition. The fillers used can be advantageously treated on the surface to make them hydrophilic, while guaranteeing sufficient cohesion of the powder of the invention. According to a particular mode, the fillers can be treated in the same way as the aforementioned pigments, with a hydrophilic additive as described above.

The fillers are chosen in particular from inorganic fillers such as:

- talc preferably in the form of particles generally of dimensions less than 40 μm;

- micas of natural or synthetic origin, sericites, having dimensions of 2 to 200 μm, preferably of 5 to 70 μm and a thickness of 0.1 to 5 μm, preferably of 0.2 to 3 μm;

- kaolin having particle sizes generally less than 30 μm;

- metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate , magnesium myristate, preferably in the form of particles having dimensions of less than 10 μm; these metallic soaps notably act as a cohesive agent in the powder;

- zinc oxides, titanium oxides; calcium carbonate; barium sulphate; magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbon, silica, glass beads, ceramic beads; boron nitride;

- and mixtures thereof.

As organic fillers, mention may be made in particular of:

- crosslinked or non-crosslinked starches, for example corn, wheat, rice or potato starches;

- cellulose powders;

- synthetic polymer powders, crosslinked or not, spheronized or not, expanded or not, such as polyamide powders (for example poly-R-alanine powders and nylon powders such as those marketed under the name ORGÀSOL®) , poly(meth)acrylic acid or poly(meth)acylate powders such as cross-linked methyl methacrylate powders, silicone resin powders such as silsesquioxanes,

- and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention will comprise at least fillers playing the role of excipient, fillers playing a role on the texture and the touch and fillers playing a role of cohesion within the composition.

Thus the composition of the invention will advantageously comprise:

A filler selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, barium sulfate, amino acids, starches, and mixtures thereof, as an excipient agent;

A filler chosen from the group consisting of silicas, silicone resin, PMMA, cellulose, and Nylon-12, as texture or feel agent, and

A filler chosen from the group of metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, myristate magnesium and mixtures thereof.

Fillers can also be classified according to their shape. The composition will advantageously comprise spherical fillers and platelet fillers.

According to a particular mode, the platelet fillers are chosen from the group consisting of talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, barium sulphate, amino acids and their mixtures and the spherical fillers are chosen in the group consisting of silica, PMAAA particles, cellulose particles, nylon particles, silicone resin particles, starches and mixtures thereof.

Thus the composition of the invention may advantageously comprise at least:

A filler selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, barium sulphate, amino acids, and mixtures thereof, as platelet filler; and A filler selected from the group consisting of silicas, silicone resin, PMMA, cellulose, and Nylon-12, starches and mixtures thereof as a spherical filler.

The content of spherical fillers and platelet fillers can be adjusted according to the desired properties. In particular, the composition may comprise a content ranging from 0.1 to 50%, in particular 1 to 25% by weight of spherical fillers chosen from the group consisting of silica, silicone resin, PMMA, cellulose, Nylon-12, and their mixtures, and a content ranging from 0.1% to 70%, in particular 1% to 60% in platelet fillers.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition also comprises at least one filler chosen from metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in a content ranging from 0% to 10% by weight with respect to to the total weight of said composition, to improve the cohesion of the powder obtained according to the invention.

Advantageously hydrophilic treated pigments

According to a particular mode, in particular when the composition of the invention is a make-up composition, it comprises at least one dyestuff, preferably at least one pigment. The pigment can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, pearlescent pigments and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprises at least mineral pigments.

The mineral pigments can be chosen from iron oxides, in particular black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; titanium dioxide, manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxides, in particular hydrated chromium oxide, ferric blue, carbon black, and mixtures thereof.

Among the organic pigments, mention may in particular be made of the lakes obtained from dyes such as the dyes D&C Black No. 2, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C orange No. 10, D&C No. red 3, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C red No. 9, D&C red No. 13, D&C red No. 19, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 36, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Yellow No. 10 and Cochineal Carmine.

The nacreous pigments are for example chosen from mica covered with titanium oxide, mica-titanium covered with iron oxide, mica-titanium covered with ferric blue, mica- titanium covered with chromium oxide, mica-titanium covered with an organic pigment as described previously, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The pigments used in the composition of the invention are advantageously treated with a hydrophilic additive to facilitate their dispersion in the composition.

As hydrophilic additives, mention may be made in particular of phytic acid, alginate, and sodium glycerophosphate (SGP). Preferably, a hydrophilic additive from those described below will be used.

According to a first particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are pigments treated with sodium glycerophosphate (otherwise called ‘SGP’ pigments), in particular iron oxides treated with such an additive.

Such pigments are described in particular in the international application WO2012120098 from SENSIENT.

Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention will comprise pigments or a pigmentary composition comprising a pigment and an additive of formula (I)

[Chem 1] in which :

- n represents 1 or 2,

- M represents H or a cation,

- m represents 1 when M is H and m represents the valence of the cation when M is a cation,

- R represents:

- a group G chosen from a saccharide or a group -[CH2-CHRi-O] _q -R2 or -[CHz-CH(CH ₂ OH)-O] _q -R ₂ where:

- q represents an integer from 1 to 1000,

- for each CH2-CHR1-O unit, R1 independently represents H or a methyl,

- R2 represents H or an alkyl comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and,

- a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 500 carbon atoms substituted by one or more G, phosphate (of formula OPO3(M) ₂ /m) and/or hydroxyl (OH) groups. This pigmentary composition is suitable for introduction into a cosmetic composition, in particular aqueous. It is generally in the form of a powder comprising the pigment and the additive intimately mixed, the additive generally being adsorbed or precipitated on the surface of the pigment. A pigmentary composition in powder form is particularly advantageous compared to a composition in liquid form (suspension, emulsion or solution).

It turns out that the pigment compositions described in application WO2012120098 disperse very easily and effectively in an aqueous medium or in the continuous aqueous phase of an oil-in-water emulsion.

In this compound of formula (I), it is meant that the hydrocarbon chain comprises from 1 to 500 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 50, typically from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms. Hydrocarbon chains can be linear, branched or cyclic. The preferred hydrocarbon chains are alkyl groups (preferably having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl and isopropyl groups) , alkenyl (preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 6), aryl (preferably having 6 to 10 carbon atoms), arylalkyl (preferably having 7 to 10 carbon atoms) or alkylaryl (preferably having 7 to 10 carbon atoms). M can in particular be an inorganic cation, such as λg ³⁺ , λl ³⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , λg ²⁺ , Zn ²⁺ , Sn ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ , Ba ²⁺ , λg ⁺ , Na ⁺ or an organic cation, such as a diethanolammonium (DEA) (H3N ⁺ -(CH2)2-OH) or a quaternary ammonium.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigment or pigmentary composition comprises an additive of formula (II) below:

[Chem 2]

In which M and m are as defined above, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a group G of formula -[CH2- CH(CH2OH)-O] _q - R2 where q represents 1 and R2 represents H. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, a glycerophosphate additive of the following formula (III) is used:

[Chem 3] which corresponds to an additive of formula (II) in which M represents Na and m represents 1, this additive being advantageously commercially available.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are pigments treated with sodium glycerophosphate (otherwise called ‘SGP’ pigments), in particular iron oxides treated with such an additive.

Mention may in particular be made of the pigments treated with sodium glycerophosphate (SGP) from SENSIENT marketed according to the following references: o Unipure red LC381 SGP (iron oxides, CI77491 and Cl 77499 and sodium glycerophosphate) o Unipure black LC989 SGP (iron oxides, Cl 77499 and alumina and magnesium oxide and sodium glycerophosphate) o Unipure yellow LC182 SGP (iron oxides, Cl 77492 and sodium glycerophosphate) o Unipure white LC 981 SGP (titanium dioxide, Cl 77891 and sodium glycerophosphate)

According to another particular embodiment, an additive of formula (V) is used

[Chem 4] which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a cyclohexyl hydrocarbon chain substituted in positions 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 by a phosphate group of formula OPO3H2. And preferably phytic acid of formula (V')

[Chem 5]

Which corresponds to an additive of formula (V) in which M represents H and m represents 1, this additive being advantageously commercially available, for example from Nutriscience®.

The pigments treated with a phytic acid solution of formula (V') are described in application WO2012/120098 and FR3080116 from Sensient.

Mention may in particular be made of the pigments treated with a phytic acid (PHY) from SENSIENT marketed according to the following commercial references: o Unipure red LC388 PHY (red iron oxide, Cl 77491 and phytic acid and sodium hydroxide) o Unipure black LC 998 PHY (Cl 77499 and phytic acid and sodium glycerophosphate) o Unipure yellow LC 188 PHY (Cl 77492 and phytic acid and sodium glycerophosphate ) o Unipure white LC 985 PHY ( anastase , Cl 77891 and phytic acid and sodium glycerophosphate).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention will comprise pigments treated with an additive of formula (I), (II), (III) or (V), preferably a sodium glycerophosphate additive of formula (III ) or a phytic acid additive of formula (V′).

According to another particular method, the pigments are treated with an alginate (INCI name: algin). By alginate is meant alginate or one of its salts, in particular the sodium salt. This anionic polysaccharide is found naturally in oceans around the world in the cell walls of brown algae and kelp. Inorganic pigments such as iron oxide and titanium dioxide treated with sodium alginate are highly hydrophilic and provide excellent dispersibility and redispersibility in the aqueous phase. Such pigments treated with a sodium alginate are marketed under the name MiyoAQUA® by the company Miyoshi America.

Mention may in particular be made of pigments treated with an alginate under the name MiyoAQUA® from Miyoshi America: o MiyoAQUA® RED (Cl 77491 and alginate) o MiyoAQUA® BLACK (Cl 77499 and alginate) o MiyoAQUA® YELLOW (Cl 77492 and alginate) o MiyoAQUA® WHITE (titanium dioxide or Cl 77891 and alginate)

The treated or untreated pigments may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60%, in particular from 0.1% to 50% and preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. For makeup compositions, the content of treated or untreated pigment(s) will generally range from 10% to 25% by weight, in particular from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Wet preparation process (formation of an intermediate ‘slurry’ paste)

The fresh and moisturizing solid composition of the invention can be produced by the wet process by preparing a paste (or pasty composition) according to a suitable industrial process.

According to one of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a method for manufacturing the fresh and moisturizing solid composition described above, which method comprises: i) mixing the particulate phase, and the hydroxy compound, water and optional oily phase constituting the liquid phase, to form a paste; and (ii) shaping of the paste, in particular in a silicone mould, by compacting and partial elimination of the liquid phase present in the paste. The liquid phase consists of water and any additional volatile or non-volatile solvents and binders (oils).

By “partial elimination” according to the invention, it is meant that the solid moisturizing composition obtained comprises a final level of water sufficient to give it the desired moisturizing properties. Thus the moisturizing solid composition will comprise a content of 5% to 50% of water relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular mode, the partial elimination is done by vacuum suction, at ambient temperature and in particular with a suction pressure between 1 and 4 bars, a compression pressure between 1 and 4 bars (limits included).

Thanks to the presence of water in the slurry process, it is possible to incorporate suspending agents into the composition which will allow the paste to be kept for a certain time during the storage phase so that the pigments remain in suspension, there is no release and that the paste remains homogeneous.

As suspending agents, and as described previously, magnesium aluminum silicate, hectorite, bentonite, xanthan gum, Chondrus crispus, and mixtures thereof may advantageously be used.

Thus, a composition of the invention will also comprise at least one suspending agent, in particular chosen from magnesium aluminum silicate, hectorite, bentonite, xanthan gum, Chondrus crispus and mixtures thereof.

The process of the present invention, using water and a particulate phase comprising fillers and optionally pigments, advantageously hydrophilic treated, advantageously makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous paste and homogeneous compact powders. The term “homogeneous” means a composition in which the various constituents and in particular the pigments, when they are present, are distributed to give a uniform or substantially uniform appearance to the naked eye. In particular, the composition obtained according to the process of the invention does not have surface color irregularities, such as mottling.

According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a process for the manufacture of a fresh and moisturizing solid composition, which process comprises: (i) mixing the particulate phase, and the hydroxy compound, water and the optional oily phase constituting the liquid phase, to form a paste; and (ii) shaping of the paste, in particular in a silicone mould, by compacting and partial elimination of the phase liquid (volatile or non-volatile, eg water) present in the dough, in particular by vacuum suction possibly followed by freezing, and possibly by drying at a temperature below 70°C.

It is implicit that at the time of the partial elimination of water, part of the oily phase (volatile or non-volatile) can also be eliminated.

By “partial elimination” according to the invention, it is meant that the solid composition obtained comprises a residual water content, preferably at least 5% by weight, in the final product. The partial elimination is done, according to a particular mode, by suction under vacuum at room temperature and with a suction pressure between 1 and 4 bars, a compression pressure between 1 and 4 bars.

The paste ('slurry') is obtained by mixing the particulate solid phase, the hydroxy compound chosen from polyols, glycol ethers and their mixtures, water, and the optional oily phase.

The paste comprises the various constituents, preferably in the following proportions

- from 15% to 80% by weight of particulate solid phase relative to the total weight of the paste;

- 10 to 70% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the dough; and

- 0.1 to 30% by weight of oils and/or structuring agents relative to the total weight of the dough.

The dough can be shaped or not.

For shaping, the dough can be placed in molds in order to undergo shaping according to a technique known to those skilled in the art.

The molds can be made of metal or silicone and can be reused once the composition has been removed from the mold. The molds can also be cups or buckets which remain attached to the composition once manufactured in order to then be placed in the housing of a packaging. When the paste is liquid, it can be injected through the bottom, the side or the top of the mold or be poured by simply filling the mold through its upper opening. An injection process from the bottom of the molds is for example known as the "Back Injection Machine" or BIM. A method of injection from the side is for example known by the name “Side Injection”. A method of filling molds that involves pouring batter into the mold from above is known as "Top Fill". The dough can also be more viscous so that it can be dosed by preparing pieces of dough. The percentage of volatile or non-volatile liquid (water and optional solvents and additional volatile or non-volatile binders) is preferably chosen such that the dough has a sufficient consistency to be able to be kneaded, measured out and cut. In this case, it is necessary to shape the paste so that the composition conforms to the edges of the cups, before partially eliminating the volatile or non-volatile liquid. This shaping can be carried out by pressing (compacting) at the same time as the partial elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid.

The preparation process of the invention comprises a step of partial elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid, the objective of which is to partially eliminate the volatile or non-volatile liquid in order to solidify the composition while maintaining a rate of sufficient water to keep the creaminess of the composition and to give it a creamy appearance with moisturizing properties, despite a solid appearance.

The partial removal of the volatile or non-volatile liquid can be achieved with mechanical means such as suction, or thermal means such as heat. According to a particular and preferred mode, the partial elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid is done by suction under vacuum, at room temperature and with a suction pressure preferably between 1 and 4 bars, a compression pressure preferably between 1 and 4 bars (terminals included).

A person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the duration of this step to optimize the partial elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid. The paste may comprise a higher or lower proportion of volatile or non-volatile liquid depending on the duration and the means of elimination used. According to the invention, the paste will comprise a high proportion of water as described above to give it its moisturizing properties.

The pressing (compacting) is carried out in particular thanks to an imprint which comes into contact with the paste and which compresses the composition between the bottom of the mold and its surface. during suction. The end of the cavity or the bottom of the mold is perforated to allow the extraction of volatile or non-volatile liquid out of the dough during suction.

In this embodiment, a porous material can be deposited on the free surface of the paste in each mold, or be placed on the impression which serves as a press in order to retain the powder in the mold during suction. This porous material is for example a fabric, a weft or an absorbent sheet. It is removed from the composition once the aspiration is complete. The partial elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid can also comprise the combination of the means described above. Thus, in accordance with a variant of the method of the invention, the partial elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid contained in the paste comprises mechanical elimination (vacuum suction) followed or not by thermal elimination.

The process can comprise for example two successive steps: the partial drying of the paste using mechanical removal means to obtain a wet powder, and the partial drying of the wet solid composition by thermal means. The mechanical partial elimination can be carried out by suction under a press, and the thermal partial elimination can be carried out, for example, by drying in an oven, preferably at a temperature below 70° C., more preferably still below 60° C.

According to a particular and preferred mode, the partial elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid is done by suction under vacuum, at room temperature and with a suction pressure preferably between 1 and 4 bars, a compression pressure preferably between 1 and 4 bars (terminals included).

According to a first preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention are prepared by a process which comprises:

- the preparation of the dough ('slurry'),

- the introduction of the paste into a mould, for example by means of a pump and an injection unit which advantageously comprises nozzles allowing the paste to be injected from below or above the moulds,

- depositing a porous material on the free surface of the paste and/or depositing a plastic grid on the surface before depositing the porous material,

- placing the filled molds under vacuum and partially removing the volatile or non-volatile liquid present in the dough by suction, preferably by keeping the dough under a press during the suction, and - return to atmospheric pressure.

The present invention is particularly suitable for the preparation of cosmetic compositions intended for caring for or making up the body and/or the face. The process of the invention makes it possible to prepare a solid powder of homogeneous appearance, in which the various components and in particular the particulate phase is well dispersed.

Bucket process

According to a first embodiment, called '1 ^st generation' (1G process), the paste is compacted from above in a bucket.

During compaction, compression and suction are carried out simultaneously using tools with a perforated head and a compaction pattern.

The compaction fabric is in contact with the pattern. The rest of the solvent is evaporated in an oven for several hours.

The compression is carried out in two stages: the first compaction makes it possible to partially suck up the solvent the second compaction makes it possible to give the final shape with patterns on the surface.

Silicone mold process

According to a second embodiment, said to ^{be 2nd} generation (2G process), the solid moisturizing composition obtained no longer needs a bucket, but uses silicone molds and has a more precise 3-dimensional pattern (3D pattern) than 'with the previous mode. The visuals and reliefs (3D effect, precision, gestures) are unprecedented. The 2G process makes it possible to achieve surface volumes greater than 5mm, much larger than with conventional compaction, as well as a beautiful surface appearance, good pattern definition and gloss. In addition, the surface appearance of the 2G process is much more precise and brighter than the 1G process due to the absence of intermediate compacting during the creation of the relief (pattern present in the silicone mould).

This 2G process also makes it possible to incorporate a high rate of binder compared to a powder formula produced by dry compaction, and to incorporate a high percentage ZI of water in a solid composition, for example more than 20% by weight of the composition, to increase the sensation of freshness and hydration on application.

Preparation of the dough according to the 2G process

The paste is made by pasting the powders with the binder and the solvent. The mixing of the phases is carried out using a Rayneri and a deflocculating blade.

The water, the suspending agents (e.g. bentonite and/or hectorite gels), the preservatives, the glycols and any additional oils are homogenized with stirring then the particulate solid phase (powder phase) is gradually incorporated into the rest of the mixture to form a suspension, called paste or slurry. In the case of adding volatile oils, they are incorporated after the addition of the powder phase, last.

Shaping of the powder according to the 2G process

For shaping the solid moisturizing composition, silicone molds are advantageously used. These molds allow us to create new surface reliefs and patterns. These reliefs and patterns are represented in negative on the internal face of the mould.

The dough is incorporated into the silicone moulds, a support grid is added on the surface to improve the solidity of the compact.

Then a compacting cloth is added then the compaction is carried out from the top of the mold and the solvent is partially sucked thanks to a perforated smooth surface tool.

Compaction is carried out, for example, using a Top Fill, Back fill or Side injection machine.

During compression, the canvas is no longer in contact with the pattern, so the pattern created on the surface is more precise and more in relief compared to the godet process.

After compacting, the dough is placed in the freezer in their silicone molds for a period ranging from 15 minutes to 2 hours to facilitate demolding and to optimize the definition of the design during demoulding.

Then, they are optionally placed in an oven at 45°C or 50°C for a more or less long period depending on the solvent (water) content that it is desired to keep in fine in the final product. For a content between 5% and 50% by weight of water in the final product, the duration may range from a few minutes to 6 hours depending on the means used (oven, oven at 45°C or 50°C or no drying) , to modulate the amount of water in the final product.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention are prepared according to the following process, illustrated in the examples below, according to the following steps:

(i) mixing a liquid phase comprising at least water and the solid phase in powder form, to form a paste ('slurry'): a. the ingredients of aqueous phase A are solubilized in an excess quantity of water such that phase A is approximately equivalent in weight to particulate solid phase B; b. the ingredients of phase B are mixed then dispersed in phase A using a Rayneri; for example at 1000 rpm for 5 to 10 minutes until a homogeneous mixture is obtained; vs. the optional binding phase C is added last to the pasty dispersion formed by phases A and B. The slurry is homogenized, for example at 1000 revolutions/minute for 15 minutes;

(ii) shaping of the paste by compacting and partial removal of the liquid phase to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder, according to the following steps: a. the paste is incorporated into moulds, for example silicone moulds, taking care to eliminate any air bubbles; advantageously a surface support grid is added to improve the solidity of the compact; b. a compacting cloth is added then compacting is carried out, for example, from above the mold (Top Fill machine) and the solvent (water) is simultaneously sucked up by creating a vacuum in the enclosure (vacuum suction at temperature ambient) with a compression pressure of 1 to 4 bar and a suction pressure of 1 to 4 bar); the canvas no longer being in contact with the pattern at this stage, the pattern created on the surface is more precise and more in relief compared to the 1 G process; vs. the molds are then advantageously placed in the freezer for 30 minutes to 1 hour to allow easy unmolding; d. after demolding, and if necessary, the products are placed in an oven at 50°C for 5 hours or alternatively at 45°C overnight until the water content that is desired to be retained in the final product is reached .

Galenic

According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a solid moisturizing care composition or a solid moisturizing make-up composition for the face and/or the lips, in particular a blush or blusher, a eyeshadow, illuminator, bronzer, protective powder, concealer, lip powder or eyebrow powder. The composition of the invention is preferably a complexion illuminator, a solid moisturizing complexion composition, an eye shadow, a blusher or a lipstick.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention has three-dimensional (3D) relief patterns on the surface, bringing out a particular pattern such as a logo, an alphanumeric character or a string of alphanumeric characters, or a stylized representation of an object such as a flower.

This aspect in relief, is visually very attractive, is made possible thanks to the use of silicone molds adapted to the desired shape, the use of which is very suitable for the shaping process used for the solid composition of the compact powder type of the invention.

The application of the solid moisturizing compositions according to the invention can be carried out with a brush, a sponge or a finger.

Cosmetic process

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

Applied to the skin, in particular of the face, the fresh and moisturizing solid composition, in particular obtained by a 'slurry' process as described above, provides the consumer with the desired comfort and sensoriality, with a good makeup result. The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the % are expressed as % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES

In the following examples, the terms "SGP TREATED PIGMENTS" and "SGP TREATED PIGMENTS" respectively designate mineral pigments having received a hydrophilic surface treatment with Sodium Glycerophosphate (SGP) or phytic acid (PHY), giving said pigments an affinity for hydrophilic media such as an aqueous phase. Their use makes it possible to surprisingly obtain a slurry of powders whose unctuous and fresh texture is particularly pleasant on application, while retaining its properties of homogeneity and hardness after shaping the slurry in the form of a compact. These treated pigments are, for example, marketed under the brand UNIPÜRE® by the company SENSIENT COSMETIC TECHNOLOGIES.

The term "ALG-TREATED PIGMENTS" refers to mineral pigments that have received a hydrophilic surface treatment with Alginate (ALG). These treated pigments are, for example, marketed under the MiyoAQUA® brand by the company Miyoshi America.

In accordance with the process of the invention, in the following examples; the aqueous phase A comprises an excess of water, at least part of which is eliminated during the solvent aspiration step (volatile or non-volatile liquid).

Furthermore, the initial quantity of water must thus be calculated to obtain the intermediate water percentage indicated at the end of the slurry preparation stage, formed by mixing phases A and B, and optionally the phase C.

The elimination of the solvent is controlled so as to obtain the final percentage of water indicated in the tables below (final compositions).

Example 1 Moisturizing care powder A care powder according to the invention and a control which differs from the invention in that it does not contain glycerol are prepared.

The final formulas of the compositions (Invention and Control) are presented in Table 1 below (% by weight of the final composition).

[Table 1 ]

³ phase A: aqueous phase Phase B: particulate phase (powders)

To prepare one or other of the final formulas presented in the Table above, the ingredients of Phase A comprising an excess of water are mixed, which are cold dispersed in a Rayneri machine at 500 revolutions/minute for 5- 10 minutes. The mixture of powders from phase B is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute to obtain a visually homogeneous mixture. At this stage, the water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 132% by weight relative to the sum of all the other ingredients of the mixture for the control formula, and 107% for the composition of the invention. .

The shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid. A cloth is placed on the surface, then the solvent from the powder slurry is sucked in at 4 bar for 30 seconds.

Place the mold in the freezer for 1 hour.

After demoulding, the composition is placed in an oven at 45° C. for two hours.

After this drying step, the composition is placed in a sealed pack.

Hydration test

Hydration is measured by corneometry, using a CORNEOMETER CM825 device supplied by the company Courage & Khazaka SN “NUM_SERIE”, known to the skilled person.

The method for measuring the hydration of the stratum corneum is based on the creation of an electric field on the surface of the skin and the detection, using electrodes, of variations in the dielectric constant induced by the state of hydration of the upper layer of the epidermis (cf Measurement of the electrical properties is recognized as an objective method of assessing stratum corneum hydration (E. Berardesca - EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods - Skin Research and Technology 1997 ;3:126-132).

The control formula or the composition of the invention is applied to the forearm of a volunteer. The quantity applied corresponds to 2 pl/cm ² of skin. The application area is then protected from friction by placing a metal ring surrounding the application area, fixed to the forearm by adhesive.

A measurement is taken on the application area, before application of the composition, then 6 hours after said application of the composition, leaving a period of 15 minutes for stabilization after the removal of the anti-friction protection, before the measurement .

The residual film of the control formula or of the composition of the invention is wiped from the area of application.

The variation in hydration is calculated from the measurements carried out according to the method described above.

The results are shown in Table 2 below: [Table 2]

The composition of the invention (water + hydroxy compound) allows significant and significant hydration of the skin, whereas the control formula (water) only preserves the initial hydration of the skin after application of the formula to the test area. .

Example 2 Pearly Bronzing Powder A compact powder is prepared according to the final formula shown in Table 3 below:

[Table 3]

³ phase A: aqueous phase Phase B: particulate phase (powders)

Phase C: oily phase

To prepare the compact powder presented above, the ingredients of Phase A including an excess of water are mixed, which are cold dispersed in a Rayneri machine at 500 rpm for 5-10 minutes.

The mixture of powders from phase B is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute.

At this stage, water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 83% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients in the mixture.

Phase C is added last while continuing to homogenize the paste.

The shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid. We place a canvas, then we proceed to a step of compression (Pressure = 2 bars) and suction of the solvent (Pressure = 1 bar) for 20 seconds

Place the mold in the freezer for 1 hour.

After demoulding, the composition is placed in a sealed pack.

Hardness measurement

The hardness is measured using a TA.XT PLUS TEXTURE ANALYSER (STABLE MICROSYSTEMS) texturometer, equipped with a rod on which is fixed a cylinder with a diameter of 5 mm which is applied to the surface of the compact. The cylinder penetration force is measured over a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 0.5 mm/second.

The average hardness, measured on three parts, according to the protocol previously described, is equal to 279 grams force (Gf).

Outfit

The hold on the skin of the composition is evaluated by measuring the residual film, 6 hours then 8 hours after its application to the skin.

The foundation of the example has a residual film of 91% after 6 hours and 84% after 8 hours. Hydration test

During the hydration test carried out according to the protocol of Example 1, the composition showed a significant moisturizing effect of +18% compared to the control after 6 hours of application to the skin.

Example 3 Matte Bronzing Powder

A tinted powder for making up the skin is prepared according to the final formula presented in Table 4 below: [Table 4]

³ phase A: aqueous phase

Phase B: particulate phase (powders)

Phase C: oily phase To prepare the composition presented in the table above, the ingredients of Phase A comprising an excess of water are mixed together, which are cold dispersed in a Rayneri machine at 500 revolutions/minute for 5-10 minutes.

The mixture of powders from phase B is added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with Rayneri, gradually increasing the speed up to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute.

Phase C is added last while continuing to homogenize the paste.

At this point, the water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 107% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients in the mixture.

The shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid. A canvas is placed and then a step of compression (Pressure = 2 bars) and solvent suction (Pressure = 2 bars) for 20 seconds is carried out.

Place the mold in the freezer for 1 hour.

After demoulding, the composition is placed in a sealed pack.

Hardness measurement

The hardness is measured according to the protocol of Example 2.

The average hardness of the composition, measured on three pieces of the composition prepared above, is equal to 271 grams force (Gf).

Hydration test

During the hydration test carried out according to the protocol of example 1, the composition of this example 3 according to the invention showed a significant moisturizing effect of +10% compared to the control after 6 hours of application to the skin.

Example 4 Highlighter

The solid composition is prepared according to the final formula shown in Table 5 below (% by weight of the final composition):

[Table 5]

³ phase A: aqueous phase

Phase B: particulate phase (powders)

Phase C: oily phase To prepare the composition presented in the table above, the ingredients of Phase A including an excess of water are mixed together, which are cold dispersed with a Rayneri machine at 500 revolutions/minute for 5-10 minutes.

The mixture of powders from phase B is added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with Rayneri, gradually increasing the speed up to a maximum of 1200 rpm.

Phase C is added last while continuing to homogenize the paste.

At this stage, water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 74% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients in the mixture.

The shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds fitted with a support grid. We place a canvas on the surface of the formula, then we proceed to a stage of compression (Pressure=2 bars) and suction of the solvent (Pressure=2 bars) for 20 seconds.

Place the mold in the freezer for 1 hour.

After demoulding, the composition is placed in an oven at 45° C. for one hour.

After the drying step, the composition is placed in a waterproof pack.

Hardness measurement

The hardness is measured according to the protocol of Example 2.

The average hardness of the composition of this example 4, measured on two parts, according to the protocol previously described, is equal to 288 grams force (Gf).

Hydration test

During the hydration test carried out according to the protocol of example 1, the composition of this example 4 according to the invention showed a significant moisturizing effect of +12% compared to the control after 6 hours of application to the skin.

The complexion illuminator also has an attractive three-dimensional visual effect, whose surface reliefs and patterns have particularly well-defined contours.

Example 5 Matte foundation

A solid foundation having a matte finish after application to the skin is prepared.

The formula of the composition is presented in Table 6 below:

[Table 6]

Phase B: particulate phase (powders)

Phase C: oily phase

To prepare the foundation presented in the table above, the ingredients of Phase A including an excess of water are mixed, which are cold dispersed in a Rayneri machine at 500 rpm for 5-10 minutes.

The mixture of powders from phase B is added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 rpm to obtain a visually homogeneous mixture.

Phase C is added last while continuing to homogenize the paste.

The shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid. A canvas is placed and then a step of compression (Pressure = 4 bars) and solvent suction (Pressure = 3 bars) for 40 seconds is carried out. Place the mold in the freezer for 1 hour.

After demoulding, the composition is placed in an oven at 45° C. for one hour.

After drying, the composition is placed in a waterproof pack

Example 6 Moisturizing foundation

We prepare a foundation for the care of the skin.

The final formula of the composition is shown in Table 7 below:

[Table 7]

³ phase A: aqueous phase

Phase B: particulate phase (powders)

The mixture of powders from phase B is added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with Rayneri, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 rpm and homogenization of the slurry.

At this stage, water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 86% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients in the mixture.

The shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid. A cloth is placed and then the solvent from the powder slurry is sucked in at 4 bars for 1 minute.

Place the mold in the freezer for 1 hour. After demoulding, the composition is placed in an oven at 45° C. for one hour.

After drying, the composition is placed in a waterproof pack of the “cushion” type.

Hydration test During the hydration test carried out according to the protocol of example 1, the composition of this example 6 according to the invention showed a significant moisturizing effect of +30% compared to the control after 6 hours of application to the skin.

The foundation also produces on application an immediate effect of freshness complementary to the moisturizing effect of the skin observed at a distance from the application.

Example 7 Pearly foundation

A foundation having a pearly effect on the skin is prepared.

The formula of the composition is presented in Table 8 below:

[Table 8]

³ phase A: aqueous phase

Phase B: particulate phase (powders)

Phase C: oily phase

To prepare the foundation presented in the table above, the ingredients of Phase A comprising an excess of water are mixed together, which are cold dispersed with a Rayneri machine at 500 revolutions/minute for 5-10 minutes. The mixture of powders from phase B is added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute.

Phase C is added last while continuing to homogenize the paste. At this stage, water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 83% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients in the mixture.

The shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid. We place a canvas, then we proceed to a stage of compression (Pressure = 2 bars) and suction of the solvent (Pressure = 1 bar) for 20 seconds. The mold is placed in the freezer for 1 hour. After demoulding, the composition is placed in an oven at 45° C. for one hour.

After demoulding, the composition is placed in a sealed pack.

Example 8 Matte Skin Care Powder A white skin care powder was prepared.

The final formula of the composition is shown in Table 9 below:

[Table 9]

To prepare the compact powder, the ingredients of Phase A are mixed, which are cold dispersed in a Rayneri machine at 500 rpm for 5-10 minutes.

The mixture of powders from phase B is added to phase A comprising an excess of water, to the previous phase, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute. .

Phase C is added last while continuing to homogenize the paste.

The shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid. A cloth is placed on the slurry on the surface of the mould, then a step of compression (Pressure = 2 bars) and simultaneous suction of the solvent (Pressure = 1 bar) for 20 seconds is carried out. The mold is placed in the freezer for 1 hour.

After demoulding, the composition is placed in an oven at 45° C. for one hour.

The composition is finally placed is placed in a “cushion” type pack.

Once applied to the skin, the composition produces a surprising matte finish linked to the presence of SERICITE M, in addition to a moisturizing effect for the skin.

Claims

44

CLAIMS Cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a solid composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: water in a content ranging from 5% at 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one hydroxylated compound chosen from polyols, glycol ethers and mixtures thereof, a particulate solid phase comprising at least fillers, and optionally an oily phase comprising at least an oil, said composition being obtained by a process comprising the following steps: (i) mixing the particulate phase, and the hydroxy compound, water and the optional oily phase constituting the liquid phase, to form a paste; and (ii) shaping the paste by compacting and partial removal of the liquid phase to obtain the composition in the form of a solid composition. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it comprises water in a content ranging from 10% to 50%, in particular from 20% to 45%, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises, in a total content of polyol(s) and/or glycol ether(s) ranging from 5% to 20%, preferably 8% to 15 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the particulate phase comprises fillers chosen from platelet fillers, spherical fillers and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it also comprises hydrophilic treated pigments. Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it also comprises suspending agents, in particular hectorite, bentonite and their mixtures, and optionally cohesion agents, in particular stearate of magnesium, zinc stearate, magnesium myristate and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is in the form of a solid moisturizing care composition or a solid moisturizing make-up composition for the face and/or the lips, 45 in particular a blush or blusher, an eye shadow, a complexion illuminator, a bronzer, a protective complexion powder, a concealer, a lip powder or an eyebrow powder. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it has 3D relief patterns on the surface. Process for the manufacture of a solid composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises the following stages: (i) mixing of the particulate phase, and of the hydroxylated compound, of the water and the optional oily phase constituting the liquid phase, to form a paste; and (ii) shaping of the paste, in particular in a silicone mould, by compacting and partial elimination of the liquid phase present in the paste. Cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 8.