EP4132460A1 - Procédé de coloration de matière kératinique, comprenant l'utilisation d'un composé organosilicié, d'un polysaccharide, d'un composé colorant et d'un agent de post-traitement - Google Patents

Procédé de coloration de matière kératinique, comprenant l'utilisation d'un composé organosilicié, d'un polysaccharide, d'un composé colorant et d'un agent de post-traitement

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Publication number
EP4132460A1
EP4132460A1 EP21705466.7A EP21705466A EP4132460A1 EP 4132460 A1 EP4132460 A1 EP 4132460A1 EP 21705466 A EP21705466 A EP 21705466A EP 4132460 A1 EP4132460 A1 EP 4132460A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
agent
group
pigments
acid
stands
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21705466.7A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Thomas Hippe
Jessica Brender
Stefan Hoepfner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP4132460A1 publication Critical patent/EP4132460A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4324—Direct dyes in preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers

Definitions

  • a method of coloring keratinic material comprising the use of an organosilicon compound, a polysaccharide, a coloring compound and an aftertreatment agent
  • the present application relates to a method for treating keratinous material, in particular human hair, which comprises the use of two agents (a) and (b).
  • the agent (a) is characterized by its content of at least one organic silicon compound (a1) and a selected polysaccharide (a2).
  • the means (b) contains at least one sealing reagent (b1).
  • either the agent (a) or the agent (b) or both agents (a) and (b) contain at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes.
  • kits-of-parts for coloring keratinous material, in particular human hair, which comprises at least three means (a), (a ′′) and (b), made up separately from one another.
  • the means (a) used in the method described above can be prepared from means (a ‘) and (a“).
  • Oxidation dyes are usually used for permanent, intensive dyeings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes with one another. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting dyeing results.
  • color pigments are generally understood to mean insoluble, coloring substances. These are undissolved in the form of small particles in the dye formulation and are only deposited on the outside of the hair fibers and / or the surface of the skin. Therefore, they can usually be rewashed with a few washes with detergents containing surfactants Remove without leaving any residue.
  • Various products of this type are available on the market under the name of hair mascara.
  • oxidative coloring agents have so far been his only option.
  • an unpleasant smell of ammonia or amine cannot be completely avoided with oxidative hair coloring.
  • the hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative coloring agents also has a detrimental effect on the user's hair.
  • EP 2168633 B1 deals with the problem of producing long-lasting hair colorations using pigments.
  • the document teaches that when the combination of a pigment, an organic silicon compound, a film-forming polymer and a solvent is used, the hair can be colored which is particularly resistant to abrasion and / or shampooing.
  • the organic silicon compounds used in the dyeings are highly reactive compounds which undergo hydrolysis or oligomerization and / or polymerization in the presence of water and / or when they are used.
  • the rate of oligomerization and / or polymerization must be such that it enables the colorant to be used in a period of time that is acceptable to the user.
  • the object of the present invention was to provide a coloring system with pigments which has fastness properties comparable to oxidative coloring.
  • the wash fastness should be excellent, but the use of the oxidation dye precursors usually used for this purpose should be dispensed with.
  • the aforementioned object can be achieved excellently if keratinic materials, in particular human hair, are colored with a method in which at least two agents (a) and (b) are applied to the keratinic materials (hair) .
  • the first agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound from the group of silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms (a1) and furthermore an anionic, branched polysaccharide with a repeating tetrasaccharide Unit (a2) at least one polyol (a3) and a maximum of 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent (a), of water (a4).
  • the second means (b) contains at least one sealing reagent.
  • means (a) could also be optimized with regard to its application properties. It has been shown that the combination of anionic, branched polysaccharide with a repeating tetrasaccharide unit (a2) and at least one polyol (a3) and the limitation of the water content in the agent (a) to a maximum of 25% by weight on the total weight of the agent (a), leads to an oligo- and polymerization rate of the organic silicon compound (a1) which is optimal for coloring keratinous material.
  • a first object of the present invention is a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps:
  • an agent (a) to the keratinic material, the agent (a) comprising:
  • agent (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and application of an agent (b) to the keratinic material, the agent (b) containing:
  • (b1) at least one sealing reagent, at least one of the agents (a) and (b) also containing at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes.
  • Colored films can be obtained by using at least one coloring compound from the group of the pigments and / or the substantive dyes in at least one of the agents (a) and (b).
  • the coloring compounds can be permanently fixed on the keratinic material, so that extremely washfast colorations with good resistance to abrasion and / or shampooing could be obtained.
  • an optimal oligo and polymerization rate of the organic silicon compound (a1) can be achieved.
  • Keratinic material is to be understood as meaning hair, the skin, and the nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails, for example). Furthermore, wool, furs and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinic material.
  • Keratinic material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin and human nails, in particular fingernails and toenails. Keratinic material is very particularly preferably understood to mean human hair.
  • a first object of the present invention is a method for treating keratinic material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps:
  • an agent (a) to the keratinic material, the agent (a) comprising:
  • agent (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and application of an agent (b) to the keratinic material, the agent (b) containing:
  • (b1) at least one sealing reagent, at least one of the agents (a) and (b) also containing at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes.
  • the agent (a) can be liquid, gel-like or cream-like.
  • the agent (a) preferably comprises creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols, foam formulations or other preparations that are suitable for use on the hair.
  • the agent (a) can contain water.
  • the agent (a) preferably contains - based on its total weight - at least 2% by weight of water.
  • the water content is more preferably above 5% by weight, even more preferably above 10% by weight and particularly preferably above 15% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the agent (a).
  • the agent (a) contains a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a).
  • the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound from the group of the silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms.
  • the agent (a) particularly preferably contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydroxyl groups and / or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • organic silicon compounds (a1) or organic silanes contained in the agent (a) are reactive compounds.
  • Organic silicon compounds, which are alternatively referred to as organosilicon compounds, are compounds that either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si-C) or in which the carbon is attached to the silicon via an oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur atom. Atom is linked.
  • the organic silicon compounds of the present invention are compounds containing one to three silicon atoms.
  • the organic silicon compounds particularly preferably contain one or two silicon atoms.
  • silane stands for a group of chemical compounds based on a silicon skeleton and hydrogen.
  • the hydrogen atoms have been completely or partially replaced by organic groups such as, for example, (substituted) alkyl groups and / or alkoxy groups.
  • organic silanes some of the hydrogen atoms can also be replaced by hydroxyl groups.
  • a method is characterized by the use of an agent (a) on the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing at least one organic silicon compound (a1) selected from silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms wherein the organic silicon compound further comprises one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • an agent (a) on the keratinous material the agent (a) containing at least one organic silicon compound (a1) selected from silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms wherein the organic silicon compound further comprises one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • a method is characterized by the use of an agent (a) on the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing at least one organic silicon compound (a1) selected from silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms wherein the organic silicon compound further comprises one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • an agent (a) on the keratinous material the agent (a) containing at least one organic silicon compound (a1) selected from silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms wherein the organic silicon compound further comprises one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • This basic group or basic chemical function can be, for example, an amino group, an alkylamino group, a dialkylamino group or a trialkylamino group, which is preferably connected to a silicon atom via a linker.
  • the basic group is preferably an amino group, a C1-C6-alkylamino group or a di (Ci-C6) alkylamino group.
  • the hydrolyzable group or groups are preferably a Ci-C6-alkoxy group, in particular an ethoxy group or a methoxy group. It is preferred if the hydrolyzable group is bonded directly to the silicon atom. If, for example, the hydrolyzable group is an ethoxy group, the organic silicon compound preferably contains a structural unit R'R "R"'Si-O-CH2-CH3. The radicals R ', R "and R"' represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.
  • a very particularly preferred method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound selected from silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound preferably having one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl groups or comprises hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (I) and / or (II).
  • the compounds of the formulas (I) and (II) are organic silicon compounds which are selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydroxyl groups and / or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • the method is characterized in that an agent is applied to the keratinic material (or the human hair), the agent (a) at least one organic silicon compound (a) of the formula (I) and / or ( II) contains,
  • R 2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • - L stands for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group
  • R3 stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • R5 ‘, R5“ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group
  • R6 ‘and R6“ independently represent a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • a ‘, A”, A “‘ and A ““ independently of one another represent a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group
  • Ci-C6-alkyl group examples are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl.
  • Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals.
  • Examples of a C2-C6 alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C2-C6 alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl.
  • a hydroxy-Ci-C6-alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • Examples of an amino-Ci-C6-alkyl group are the aminomethyl group, the 2-aminoethyl group and the 3-aminopropyl group. The 2-aminoethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • Examples of a linear divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH2-), the ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) and the butylene group (-CH2- CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred.
  • divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C3-C2o-alkylene groups are (-CH2-CH (CH3) -) and (-CH2-CH (CH 3 ) -CH 2 -).
  • the radicals Ri and R2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6-alkyl group.
  • the radicals Ri and R2 are very particularly preferably both a hydrogen atom.
  • the structural unit or the linker -L- which stands for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group.
  • a divalent Ci-C 2 o -alkylene group can alternatively also be referred to as a divalent or divalent C 1 -C 2 o-alkylene group, which means that each group L can form two bonds. One bond is from the amino group R1 R2N to the linker L, and the second bond is between the linker L and the silicon atom.
  • -L- is preferably a linear, divalent (ie divalent) Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group.
  • -L- stands for a linear divalent Ci-C6-alkylene group.
  • -L- stands for a methylene group (-CH2-), an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-) or a butylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) .
  • L very particularly preferably represents a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the linear propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) can alternatively also be referred to as propane-1,3-diyl group.
  • the radical R3 stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • the radical R 4 stands for a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • R3 and R4 independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • a stands for an integer from 1 to 3
  • b stands for the integer 3 - a. If a is 3, then b is 0. If a is 2, then b is 1. If a is 1, then b is 2.
  • Particularly resistant films could be produced when the means (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (I), in which the radicals R3, R4 independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl.
  • R 4 could then be obtained analogously to dyeings with the best washfastness when the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of formula (I), independently represents a methyl group or represent an ethyl group. Furthermore, dyeings with the best wash fastness properties could be obtained if the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) in which the radical a stands for the number 3. In this case, the remainder b stands for the number 0.
  • the agent (a) used in the process is characterized in that it contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (I), where
  • R3, R4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (I),
  • R2 both stand for a hydrogen atom
  • - L stands for a linear, divalent Ci-C6-alkylene group, preferably for a propylene group (-CH2- CH2-CH2-) or for an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-),
  • R3 stands for a hydrogen atom, an ethyl group or a methyl group
  • R4 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • Organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) which are particularly suitable for achieving the object of the invention are - (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) which is selected from the group from
  • organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) are commercially available.
  • (3-Aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
  • (3-Aminopropyl) triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • the agent contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (II)
  • organosilicon compounds of the formula (II) each have the silicon-containing groups (R50) c (R6) dSi- and -Si (R6 ') d' (OR5 ') c at their two ends
  • each of the radicals e, f, g and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals e, f, g and h is different from 0.
  • an organic silicon compound of the formula (II) at least one group from the group consisting of - (A) - and - [NR7- (A ')] - and - [0- (A ”)] - and - [NRs- (A”')] -
  • radicals R5, R5', R5 stand independently of one another for a hydrogen atom or for a Ci-C6- Alkyl group.
  • the radicals R6, R6 'and R6 ′′ stand independently of one another for a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • c stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and d stands for the integer 3 - c. If c is 3, then d is 0. If c is 2, d is 1. If c is 1, d is 2.
  • d‘ stands for the integer 3 - c ‘. If c ‘stands for the number 3, then d‘ equals 0. If c ‘stands for the number 2, then d‘ equals 1. If c ‘stands for the number 1, then d‘ equals 2.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (II),
  • R5 and R5 ‘independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • the radicals e, f, g and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, at least one radical from e, f, g and h being different from zero.
  • the abbreviations e, f, g and h define which of the groupings - (A) e - and - [NR7- (A ')] f - and - [0- (A ”)] g - and - [ NR8- (A ”')] h - are located in the central part of the organic silicon compound of the formula (II).
  • the presence of certain groups has proven to be particularly advantageous with regard to increasing the wash fastness. Particularly good results could be obtained when at least two of the radicals e, f, g and h stand for the number 1. Very particularly preferably e and f both stand for the number 1. Furthermore, g and h both very particularly preferably stand for the number 0.
  • the radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” stand independently of one another for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” are preferably, independently of one another, a linear, divalent Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" are more preferably, independently of one another, a linear divalent Ci-C6-alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” are particularly preferably, independently of one another, a methylene group (-CH2-), an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2) -) or a butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
  • the radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" very particularly preferably represent a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the divalent Ci-C 2 o -alkylene group can alternatively also be referred to as a divalent or double-bonded C 1 -C 20 alkylene group, which means that each grouping A, A ', A “, A“' and A ““ has two Can form bonds.
  • the linear propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) can alternatively also be referred to as propane-1,3-diyl group.
  • the organic silicon compound of the formula (II) contains a structural grouping - [NR7- (A ’)] -.
  • the organic silicon compound of the formula (II) contains a structural grouping - [NR8- (A "’)] -.
  • radicals R7 and Rs are independently a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C6- alkyl group, a hydroxy-Ci-C6-alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, an amino-Ci-C6-alkyl group or a Grouping of the formula (III)
  • the radicals R7 and R8 are very particularly preferably, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (III).
  • the organic silicon compound contains the grouping [NR7- (A ')], but not the grouping - [NR8- (A ”')] the radical R7 represents a grouping of the formula (III), then the agent (a) contains an organic silicon compound with 3 reactive silane groups.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (II),
  • R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (III).
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II), where
  • - A and A ‘independently of one another represent a methylene group (-CH2-), an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-) or a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2), and
  • R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (III).
  • organic silicon compounds of the formula (II) are commercially available.
  • Bis (trimethoxysilylpropyl) amine with the CAS number 82985-35-1 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
  • Bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine with the CAS number 13497-18-2 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
  • N-methyl-3- (trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine is alternatively also referred to as bis (3-trimethoxysilylpropyl) -N-methylamine and can be purchased commercially from Sigma-Aldrich or Fluorochem .
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) which is selected from the group from
  • the agent (a) applied to the keratinic material in the process contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV)
  • the compounds of the formula (IV) are organic silicon compounds which are selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydroxyl groups and / or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • organic silicon compound (s) of the formula (IV) can also be referred to as silanes of the alkylalkoxysilane or alkylhydroxysilane type,
  • Rg stands for a Ci-Ci8-alkyl group
  • - Rio stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • the process is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (IV)
  • Rg stands for a Ci-Ci8-alkyl group
  • R11 stands for a Ci-C6-alkyl group k is an integer from 1 to 3, and m is the integer 3 - k.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one further organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) in addition to the organic silicon compound or compounds of the formula (I)
  • Rg stands for a Ci-Ci8-alkyl group
  • - Rio stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one further organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) in addition to the organic silicon compound or compounds of the formula (II)
  • Rg stands for a Ci-Ci8-alkyl group
  • - Rio stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one further organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) in addition to the organic silicon compound or compounds of the formula (I) and / or (II)
  • Rg stands for a Ci-Ci8-alkyl group
  • - Rio stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • Rg stands for a C1-C18-alkyl group.
  • This Ci-Ci8-alkyl group is saturated and can be linear or branched.
  • Rg is preferably a linear Ci-Ci8-alkyl group.
  • Rg preferably stands for a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, an n-octyl group, an n-dodecyl group or an n-octadecyl group.
  • Rg particularly preferably stands for a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-hexyl group or an n-octyl group.
  • the radical R10 stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • R10 particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • the radical Rn stands for a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • Rn particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • k stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and m stands for the integer 3 - k. If k is 3, then m is 0. If k is 2, then m is 1. If k is 1, m is 2.
  • Organic silicon compounds of the formula (IV) which are particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention are methyltrimethoxysilane
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound (a1) of the formula (IV) which is selected from the group from
  • the organic silicon compounds described above are reactive compounds.
  • the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - prefers one or more organic silicon compounds (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight 1 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably 2 to 8% by weight.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - prefers one or more organic silicon compounds (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight 1 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably 2 to 8% by weight.
  • the organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) and / or (II) it is particularly advantageous to use the organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) and / or (II) in certain quantity ranges in the medium (a).
  • the agent (a) particularly preferably contains - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - one or more organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) and / or (II) in a total amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - has one or more organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) and / or (II) in a total amount of 0.1 up to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight.
  • the organic silicon compound or compounds of the formula (IV) are also contained in the agent (a) in certain quantity ranges.
  • the agent (a) particularly preferably contains - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - one or more organic silicon compounds of the formula (IV) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 2 to 15% by weight. % and particularly preferably 4 to 9% by weight.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - has one or more organic silicon compounds of the formula (IV) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight , preferably 2 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably 3.2 to 10% by weight.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least two structurally different organic silicon compounds.
  • a method is characterized in that an agent (a) is used on the keratinic material which contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) and at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV).
  • an agent (a) is used on the keratinic material which contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) selected from the group of (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane is selected, and additionally contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV), which is selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane and hexyltrimethoxysilane and hexyltrimethoxys
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - contains:
  • At least one first organic silicon compound (a1) selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl) trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl) ) triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl) triethoxysilane, (2-dimethylaminoethyl) trimethoxysilane and (2-dimethylaminoethyl) triethoxysilane, and
  • At least one second organic silicon compound (a1) which is selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, dicyltrimethoxysilane, ddecyltroxethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane,
  • the agent (a) contains one or more organic silicon compounds of a first group in a total amount of 0.5 to 3% by weight.
  • the organic silicon compounds of this first group are selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl) trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl) triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, (3- Dimethylaminopropyl) triethoxysilane (2-dimethylaminoethyl) trimethoxysilane and / or (2-dimethylaminoethyl) triethoxysilane.
  • the agent (a) contains one or more organic silicon compounds of a second group in a total amount of 3.2 to 10% by weight.
  • the organic silicon compounds of this second group are selected from the group of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, dietecoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, dietecoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, dietecoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, dietecoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, dietec
  • hydrolysis products and / or organic silicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group can react with one another in a condensation reaction. For this reason, both the organosilicon compounds with at least one hydrolyzable group and their hydrolysis and / or condensation products can be contained in the agent (a).
  • organosilicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group both the organic silicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group and their condensation products can be contained in the agent (a).
  • a condensation product is understood to mean a product that is formed by the reaction of at least two organic silicon compounds each with at least one hydroxyl group or hydrolyzable group per molecule with elimination of water and / or with elimination of an alkanol.
  • the condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, the condensation products being in equilibrium with the monomers. Depending on the amount of water used or consumed in the hydrolysis, the equilibrium shifts from monomeric organic silicon compounds to condensation product.
  • the organic silicon compound (s) (a1) which preferably comprise one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule, are first hydrolyzed and oligomerized or polymerized in the presence of water.
  • the hydrolysis products or oligomers formed in this way have a particularly high affinity for the surface of the keratinous material and form a film there.
  • the agent (a) also contains at least one coloring compound, the film formed on the keratinic material is a colored film.
  • the agent (b) is then applied, the sealing reagent contained in this agent (b) sealing the, optionally colored, film.
  • agent (b) also contains at least one coloring compound, depending on the type of sealing reagent used, either the uncolored film produced in the first step is sealed and colored or the color impression of the colored film produced in the first step is enhanced or modified or, depending on the coloring compound used by forming a second colored film on the first colored film which enhances or modifies the color impression of the first film. If agent (b) does not contain any coloring compound, the colored film produced in the first step is sealed. The successive application of means (a) and (b) creates a color that is particularly resistant to external influences.
  • the agent (a) used in the dyeing process contains an anionic, branched polysaccharide with a repeating tetrasaccharide unit.
  • the polysaccharide used is a polysaccharide with tetrasaccharide repeating units, which preferably consists of D-glucose, L-fucose and D-glucuronic acid in a ratio of about 2: 1: 1.
  • the repeating unit of the polysaccharide has the following sequence of the formula I: wherein D-GlcpA is a residue of D-glucuronic acid, L-Fucp is a residue of L-fucose, D-Glcp is a residue of D-glucose, where n is an integer between 2500 and 3500.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises an anionic, branched polysaccharide with a repeating tetrasaccharide unit (a2), the repeating tetrasaccharide unit consisting of D-glucose, L-fucose and D-glucuronic acid in a ratio of about 2: 1: 1.
  • This anionic polysaccharide preferably has a molecular weight of the order of 2000 kD.
  • the polysaccharide can be prepared using the classical techniques of preparation and extraction of polysaccharides (chemical synthesis, enzymatic extraction of Exopolysaccharides, etc.).
  • the polysaccharide is a completely deacetylated exopolysaccharide which is produced by fermentation of bacteria, in particular Klebsiella aerogenes type 54 strain A3.
  • a suitable, anionic, branched polysaccharide with a repeating tetrasaccharide unit is, for example, the polysaccharide with the INCI name “Biosaccharide Gum-4”, which is available under the name Glycofilm® or PolluStop® from Solabia.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains an anionic, branched polysaccharide with a repeating tetrasaccharide unit (a2), comprising a polysaccharide with the INCI name “Biosaccharide Gum-4”.
  • the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - the anionic, branched polysaccharide with a repeating tetrasaccharide unit (a2) in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt. -%, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight.
  • the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - the anionic, branched polysaccharide with a repeating tetrasaccharide unit (a2), comprising a polysaccharide with the INCI name " Biosaccharide Gum-4 ′′, in a total amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight.
  • the agent (a) used in the process comprises at least one polyol (a3) as a third ingredient that is essential to the invention.
  • a polyol is a chemical compound with at least two hydroxyl groups (-OH groups).
  • Suitable polyols can in particular include diols and triols.
  • An aliphatic diol is also known as a glycol.
  • Preferred diols are C2-Cg-alkanols with two hydroxyl groups and polyethylene glycols with 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units.
  • the pigment suspension contains at least one C2-Cg-alkanol with two hydroxyl groups or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units or mixtures of at least one C2-C9-alkanol with two hydroxyl groups and at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units .
  • C2-Cg-alkanols with two hydroxyl groups selected from ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1 , 4- butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, cis-1, 4-dimethylolcyclohexane, trans 1,4-Dimethylolcyclohexane, any isomeric mixtures of cis- and trans-1,4-dimethylolcyclohexane and mixtures of these diols.
  • suitable diols are diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and / or PPG-10 butanediol (INCI).
  • suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof.
  • the agent (a) used in the process preferably contains at least one diol selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol,
  • 1,3-propylene glycol 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, PEG- 8, PEG-32 and PPG-10 butanediol (INCI).
  • the agent (a) used in the process is characterized in that it contains as polyol at least one diol selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol and 1,3-propylene glycol, where 1, 2- Propylene glycol is most preferred.
  • Suitable triols include, for example, 1,2,4-trihydroxycyclohexane, 1,3,5-trihydroxycyclohexane, glycerol and / or trimethylolpropane.
  • the agent (a) used in the process preferably contains glycerol.
  • the agent (a) used in the process contains at least two polyols comprising 1,2-propylene glycol and / or glycerol.
  • agent (a) used in the process - based on the total weight of agent (a) - has one or more polyols in a total amount of 5 to 80% by weight, preferably 10 to 75% by weight. -%, more preferably from 15 to 70% by weight and very particularly preferably from 20 to 65% by weight.
  • agent (a) used in the process - based on the total weight of agent (a) - one or more polyols comprising 1,2-propylene glycol and / or glycerol, in a total amount of 5 to 80 % By weight, preferably from 10 to 75% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 70% by weight and very particularly preferably from 20 to 65% by weight.
  • pH value of the agent (a) It has been found to be preferred if the agent (a) is made up in the form of a water-containing agent which is adjusted to an alkaline pH.
  • the agent (a) can contain at least one alkalizing agent.
  • the agents (a) can therefore also contain at least one alkalizing agent.
  • the pH values in the context of the present invention are pH values that were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • the agent (a) can contain, for example, ammonia, alkanolamines and / or basic amino acids.
  • alkanolamines which can be used in the agent are preferably selected from primary amines with a C2-C6-alkyl parent structure which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group which is formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropane -2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol,
  • 1-aminopentan-2-ol 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1- amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3- Aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
  • alkanolamines are selected from 2-aminoethan-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment is therefore characterized in that the agent is an alkanolamine selected from 2-aminoethan-1-ol and / or as the alkalizing agent
  • amino acid in the context of the invention is an organic compound which in its structure contains at least one protonatable amino group and at least one —COOH or one —SOsH group.
  • Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular a- (alpha) - aminocarboxylic acids and w-aminocarboxylic acids, with a-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.
  • Basic amino acids are to be understood as meaning those amino acids which have an isoelectric point p1 greater than 7.
  • Basic ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom.
  • both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates.
  • the basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group formed from arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, particularly preferably from arginine and lysine.
  • an agent is therefore characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine.
  • the agent can contain further alkalizing agents, in particular inorganic alkalizing agents.
  • inorganic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
  • alkalizing agents are ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2- methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1, 3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, Sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
  • Acidifying agents suitable according to the invention are, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid or also dilute mineral acids (such as, for example, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid).
  • a method is characterized in that the total amount of the organic acids contained in the agent (a) from the group of citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and lactic acid is preferably below 1% by weight is below 0.7% by weight, more preferably below 0.5% by weight, even more preferably below 0.1% by weight and very particularly preferably below 0.01% by weight.
  • a method is characterized in that the total amount of the inorganic acids contained in the agent (a) from the group of hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid at a content below 1 wt .-%, preferably below 0.7 wt. -%, more preferably below 0.5% by weight, even more preferably below 0.1% by weight and very particularly preferably below 0.01% by weight.
  • the method for the treatment of keratinic material comprises not only the application of the agent (a) but also the application of the agent (b).
  • the agent (b) is characterized in that it contains at least one sealing reagent (b1).
  • the agent (b) is an aftertreatment agent and the application of the agent (b) to the keratinic material treated with the agent (a) has the effect that the colorations obtained in the process are made more durable.
  • the wash fastness and the rub fastness of the dyeings obtained in the process can be improved by using the agent (b).
  • the sealing reagent comprises a compound selected from the group consisting of film-forming polymers, alkalizing agents, acidifying agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • the sealing reagent comprises a film-forming polymer.
  • Polymers are understood to mean macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably of at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably of at least 5000 g / mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units.
  • the polymers of the present invention can be synthetically produced polymers which are produced by polymerizing one type of monomer or by polymerizing different types of monomers which are structurally different from one another. If the polymer is produced by polymerizing one type of monomer, it is called homo-polymer. If structurally different types of monomers are used in the polymerization, the resulting polymer is referred to as a copolymer.
  • the maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerisation (number of polymerised monomers) and the batch size and is also determined by the polymerisation method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the film-forming polymer as sealing reagent (b1) is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol amounts to.
  • a film-forming polymer is understood to mean a polymer which is capable of forming a film on a substrate, for example on a keratinic material or a keratinous fiber.
  • the formation of a film can be detected, for example, by viewing the keratinic material treated with the polymer under a microscope.
  • the film-forming polymers (b1) in means (b) can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.
  • At least one hydrophobic, film-forming polymer in the means (b).
  • a hydrophobic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight.
  • the water solubility of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25 ° C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the polymer is less than 1% by weight.
  • the polymers of the acrylic acid type, the polyurethanes, the polyesters, the polyamides, the polyureas, the cellulose polymers, the nitro-cellulose polymers, the silicone polymers, the polymers of the acrylamide type and the polyisoprenes can be mentioned here in particular .
  • Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophobic polymers are, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.
  • an agent (b) is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (b1) selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters , homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.
  • b1 selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters
  • the film-forming hydrophobic polymers which are selected from the group of synthetic polymers, polymers obtainable by free radical polymerization or natural polymers have proven to be particularly suitable for achieving the object of the invention.
  • suitable film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinyl amides, the esters or amides of (meth) acrylic acid with at least one Ci-C2o-alkyl group, an aryl group or a C2-Cio-hydroxyalkyl group.
  • olefins such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene
  • vinyl ethers vinyl amides
  • esters or amides of (meth) acrylic acid with at least one Ci-C2o-alkyl group, an aryl group or a C2-Cio-hydroxyalkyl group such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene
  • vinyl ethers such as vinyl ethers
  • Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of isooctyl (meth) acrylate, isononyl (meth) acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate), isopentyl (meth) acrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate), isobutyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, methyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, stearyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl (methacrylate) , 3-hydroxypropyl (meth) acrylate and / or mixtures thereof.
  • Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of (meth) acrylamide, N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as N-ethyl acrylamide, N-tert-butyl acrylamide, le N- Octylacrylamide, N-di (C1-C4) alkyl (meth) acrylamide.
  • anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their Ci-C6-alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration Acrylates Copolymers.
  • a suitable commercial product is, for example Aculyn ® 33 from Rohm & Haas.
  • copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid are also preferred or their Ci-C6-alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol.
  • Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are, in particular, steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
  • Particularly preferred polymers on the market are, for example, Aculyn® 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn® 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001® (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001® (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus® (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer ), Synthalen W2000® (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or the Soltex OPT (Acrylates / C 12-22 Alkyl methacrylate Copolymer) sold by Rohme and Haas.
  • Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers are the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl (C1-C6-) alkyl pyrrole, vinyl oxazole, vinyl thiazole, vinyl pyrimidine or Vinylimidazole.
  • copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer such as is sold commercially by NATIONAL STARCH under the trade names AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47, or the copolymers of acrylates / octylacrylamides under the trade names DERMACRYL® LT and DERMACRYL® 79 are distributed by NATIONAL STARCH.
  • Suitable polymers based on olefins are the homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.
  • block copolymers which comprise at least one block of styrene or the derivatives of styrene can be used as film-forming hydrophobic polymers.
  • These block copolymers can be copolymers which, in addition to a styrene block, contain one or more other blocks, such as, for example, styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, styrene / butadiene.
  • Corresponding polymers are sold commercially by BASF under the trade name “Luvitol HSB”.
  • the agent (b) contained at least one film-forming polymer as sealing reagent (b1) which was selected from the group of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, the homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, the homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid esters, the homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, the homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, the Homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene, of polyurethanes, polyesters and
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer as sealing reagent (b1) which is selected from the group of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers and Copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of Vinyl acetate, homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.
  • sealing reagent (b1) is selected from the group of homopol
  • sealing reagent (b1) in means (b).
  • a hydrophilic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. (760 mmHg) of more than 1% by weight, preferably more than 2% by weight.
  • the water solubility of the film-forming hydrophilic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25 ° C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. A completely dissolved polymer appears macroscopically homogeneous. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If no undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, then the solubility of the polymer is more than 1% by weight.
  • Nonionic, anionic and cationic polymers can be used as film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers can, for example, from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (co) polymers, polyvinyl alcohol (co) polymers, vinyl acetate (co) polymers, carboxyvinyl (co) polymers, acrylic acid (co) polymers, methacrylic acid (co) polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and / or acrylamide (co) polymers.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • / or a vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer as the film-forming hydrophilic polymer.
  • an agent (b) is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and the copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • the agent contains polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) as the film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • polyvinylpyrrolidones are available, for example, under the name Luviskol® K from BASF SE, in particular Luviskol® K 90 or Luviskol® K 85 from BASF SE.
  • the polymer PVP K30 which is sold by the Ashland company (ISP, POI Chemical), can also be used as another polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) that is explicitly very particularly suitable.
  • PVP K 30 is a polyvinylpyrrolidone which is very soluble in cold water and has the CAS number 9003-39-8.
  • the molecular weight of PVP K 30 is approx. 40,000 g / mol.
  • polyvinylpyrrolidones are the substances known under the trade names LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 and available from BASF.
  • film-forming hydrophilic polymers (b1) from the group of copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone has also led to particularly good and washable color results.
  • Vinylester vinylpyrrolidone copolymers can be mentioned, as they are sold for example under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF) in this context.
  • Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are particularly preferred nonionic polymers.
  • vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymers a styrene / VP copolymer and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer and / or a VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer and / or a VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer are very particularly preferably used in the cosmetic compositions .
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers are sold under the name Luviskol® VA by BASF SE.
  • a VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer is sold by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Aquaflex® SF-40, for example.
  • a VP / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer is sold, for example, under the name Styleze CC-10 by Ashland and is a highly preferred vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer.
  • copolymers obtained by reacting N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one other monomer from the group consisting of V-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide, vinylcaprolactam, vinylcaprolactone and / or vinyl alcohol can also be mentioned as further suitable copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone .
  • an agent (b) is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer (b1) which is selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene Copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl formamide copolymers and / or vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers vinylpyrrolidone / styrene Copolymers
  • vinyl pyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers vinyl pyrrolidone / propylene copoly
  • Another suitable copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone is the polymer known under the INCI name maltodextrin / VP copolymer.
  • the agent (b) can contain at least one nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer (b1).
  • a nonionic polymer is understood to mean a polymer which in a protic solvent - such as, for example, water - does not carry structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups under standard conditions which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining electrical neutrality.
  • Cationic groups include, for example, quaternized ammonium groups but not protonated amines.
  • Anionic groups include, for example, carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.
  • the agents are very particularly preferred which contain as a nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone, Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids with 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
  • copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are used, it is again preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units contained in the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units in the polymer contained in the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30 to 70 to 60 to 40.
  • Suitable copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example, under the trademarks Luviskol® VA 37, Luviskol® VA 55, Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73 from BASF SE.
  • Another particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers with the INCI name VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, which are available, for example, from BASF SE under the trade name Luviset Clear.
  • Another very particularly preferred nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N, N-dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, which, for example, with the INCI name VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer z. B. is sold under the trade name Styleze® CC 10 by the company ISP.
  • a cationic polymer is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which is available, for example, under the trade name AquaStyle ® 300 (28-32% by weight of active substance in an ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) is sold by ISP.
  • AquaStyle ® 300 28-32% by weight of active substance in an ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000
  • hydrophilic polymers are, for example
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl caprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those offered by Acrylklareestern and acrylamides as the third monomer commercially, for example under the name Aqua Flex ® SF 40th
  • Polyquaternium-11 is the reaction product of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate.
  • Suitable commercial products are, for example available under the names Dehyquart® CC 11 and Luviquat® PQ 11 PN from BASF SE or Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755 or Gafquat 755N from Ashland Inc.
  • Polyquaternium-46 is the reaction product of vinyl caprolactam and vinyl pyrrolidone with methyl vinyl imidazolium methosulfate and is available, for example, under the name Luviquat® Hold from BASF SE. Polyquaternium-46 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is very particularly preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound. It is even highly preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound and Polyquaternium-11.
  • Acrylic acid polymers for example, which can be present in uncrosslinked or crosslinked form, can be used as suitable anionic film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.
  • Corresponding products are sold commercially, for example, under the trade names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 from Lubrizol or under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K from 3V Sigma (The Sun Chemicals, Inter Harz).
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of natural gums are xanthan gum, gellan gum, carob gum.
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of the polysaccharides are hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose.
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of acrylamides are, for example, polymers which are produced starting from monomers of (meth) acrylamido-C1-C4-alkyl-sulfonic acid or the salts thereof.
  • Corresponding polymers can be selected from the polymers of polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, poly2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-methylacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and / or poly-2-methylacrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid.
  • Preferred polymers of the poly (meth) arylamido-C1-C4-alkyl-sulfonic acids are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized. These polymers can be crosslinked or also uncrosslinked.
  • Crosslinked and completely or partially neutralized polymers of the poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid type are known under the INCI names "Ammonium Polyacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonate” or "Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide”.
  • Another preferred polymer of this type is the crosslinked poly-2-acrylamido-2methyl-propanesulphonic acid polymer sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS, which is partially neutralized with ammonia.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one anionic, film-forming polymer (b1).
  • agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer as sealing reagent (b1) which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Pl) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II) whereby
  • M stands for a hydrogen atom or for ammonium (NH4), sodium, potassium, 14 magnesium or 14 calcium.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer as sealing reagent (b1) which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Pl) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II) whereby
  • M stands for a hydrogen atom or for ammonium (NH 4 ), sodium, potassium, 1 magnesium or 1 calcium.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on an acrylic acid unit.
  • the structural unit of the formula (PI) is based on the ammonium salt of acrylic acid. If M stands for a sodium counterion, the structural unit of the formula (PI) is based on the sodium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the potassium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the magnesium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the calcium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the film-forming polymer (s) (b1) are preferably used in certain quantity ranges in the agent (b).
  • the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - has one or more film-forming polymers (b1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 18 % By weight, preferably from 1 to 16% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 14.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 12% by weight.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - prefers one or more film-forming polymers (b1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 18% by weight from 1 to 16% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 14.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 12% by weight.
  • the agent (b) comprising a film-forming polymer as sealing reagent (b1)
  • the colored film initially produced by the application of the agent (a) is intended to be sealed and / or fixed.
  • the film-forming polymer (b1) is deposited in the form of a further film on the colored film produced in the first layer.
  • the multilayer film system produced in this way has an improved resistance to external influences.
  • the film produced by means (b) comprising a film-forming polymer as sealing reagent (b1) is preferably not itself colored. In this way it can also be ensured that abrasion of the second film formed by means (b) to a certain extent does not lead to any color changes in the entire film system. It is therefore very particularly preferred if the agent (b) contains no or only very small amounts of coloring compounds.
  • the sealing reagent (b1) contains an alkalizing agent.
  • the alkalizing agent is particularly preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonia, C2-C6 alkanolamines, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one alkalizing agent as sealing reagent (b1) which is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, C2-C6-alkanolamines, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides , Alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal carbonates and alkaline earth metal carbonates.
  • alkalizing agent as sealing reagent (b1) which is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, C2-C6-alkanolamines, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides , Alkali metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal carbonates and alkaline earth metal carbonates.
  • composition (b) contains ammonia as the sealing reagent (b1).
  • composition (b) contained at least one C2-C6-alkanolamine as sealing reagent (b1).
  • the alkanolamines which can be used in composition (b) can, for example, be selected from the group of primary amines with a C2-C6-alkyl parent structure which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropane -2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1 -Amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the composition (b) contains as sealing reagent (b1) at least one alkalizing agent from the group of alkanolamines, which is preferably selected from the group of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine ), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1, 2-diol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
  • the composition (b) contains as sealing reagent (b1) at least one alkalizing agent from the group of alkanolamines, which
  • composition (b) contained at least one basic amino acid as sealing reagent (b1).
  • An amino acid in the context of the invention is an organic compound which in its structure contains at least one protonatable amino group and at least one —COOH or one —SOsH group.
  • Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ - (alpha) -aminocarboxylic acids and w-aminocarboxylic acids, ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.
  • basic amino acids are to be understood as meaning those amino acids which have an isoelectric point p1 of greater than 7.0.
  • Basic ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom.
  • both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates.
  • the basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group formed from arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, particularly preferably from arginine and lysine.
  • the method is therefore characterized in that the sealing reagent (b1) is an alkalizing agent comprising a basic amino acid from the group of arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains as sealing reagent (b1) at least one alkalizing agent from the group of basic amino acids, which is preferably selected from the group of arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
  • the agent (b) contains as sealing reagent (b1) at least one alkalizing agent from the group of basic amino acids, which is preferably selected from the group of arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
  • agent (b) contains at least one alkali metal hydroxide as sealing reagent (b1).
  • Sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, for example, can be mentioned as very suitable alkali metal hydroxides.
  • composition (b) contained an alkalizing agent comprising at least one alkaline earth metal hydroxide as the sealing reagent (b1).
  • an alkalizing agent comprising at least one alkaline earth metal hydroxide as the sealing reagent (b1).
  • Magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and barium hydroxide can be mentioned as well-suited alkaline earth metal hydroxides.
  • Suitable alkali metal silicates are, for example, sodium silicate and potassium silicate.
  • Suitable alkali metal metasilicates are, for example, sodium metasilicate and potassium metasilicate.
  • Good results could also be obtained if the agent (b) contained at least one alkali metal carbonate and / or alkaline earth metal carbonate as sealing reagent (b1).
  • Suitable alkali metal carbonates are, for example, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
  • Suitable alkaline earth metal carbonates are, for example, magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate.
  • sealing reagent (b1) in the form of an alkalizing agent, ammonia, C2-C6-alkanolaminenes, basic amino acids and alkali metal hydroxides have proven to be particularly well suited.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) comprises as sealing reagent (b1) at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group of ammonia, C2-C6-alkanolamines, basic amino acids and alkali metal hydroxides.
  • the agent (b) comprises as sealing reagent (b1) at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group of ammonia, C2-C6-alkanolamines, basic amino acids and alkali metal hydroxides.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains as sealing reagent (b1) at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol, 3-aminopropane 1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3- ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1- amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2- methylpropane-1, 3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
  • alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-o
  • the agent (b) contains the alkalizing agent as sealing reagent (b1) in a cosmetic carrier, preferably in an aqueous cosmetic carrier.
  • the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - 5.0 to 99.0% by weight, preferably 15.0 to 97.0% by weight. %, more preferably 25.0 to 97.0% by weight, even more preferably 35.0 to 97.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 45.0 to 97.0% by weight of water.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - 5.0 to 99.0 wt .-%, preferably 15.0 to 97.0 wt .-% %, more preferably 25.0 to 97.0% by weight, even more preferably 35.0 to 97.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 45.0 to 97.0% by weight of water.
  • the alkalizing agents contained in the agent (b) exert an influence on the pH of the agent (b). It was found here that certain alkaline pH values in particular have an advantageous effect on the dyeing performance that can be achieved in the process and the fastness properties of the dyeings. For this reason, it is preferred that the agent (b), comprising an alkalizing agent as sealing reagent (b1), has a pH of from 7.0 to 12.0, preferably from 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably from 8 .0 to 11.0 and very particularly preferably from 8.5 to 9.5.
  • the pH value can be measured using the usual methods known from the prior art, such as, for example, pH value measurement using glass electrodes using combination electrodes or using pH indicator paper.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains an alkalizing agent as sealing reagent (b1) and has a pH of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably from 7.5 to 11.5 , more preferably from 8.0 to 11.0 and very particularly preferably from 8.5 to 9.5.
  • the pH values in the context of the present invention are pH values that were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • the sealing reagent (b1) contains an acidifying agent.
  • the acidifying agent is particularly preferably selected from the group consisting of inorganic acids, organic acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the agent (b) contains at least one inorganic acid as the sealing reagent (b1).
  • Suitable inorganic acids are, for example, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid and / or hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid being particularly preferred.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains as sealing reagent (b1) at least one acidifying agent from the group of inorganic acids, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains sulfuric acid as the sealing reagent (b1).
  • the agent (b) contains at least one organic acid as the sealing reagent (b1).
  • the organic acid is preferably selected from the group consisting of formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, Glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, naphroylthalic acid, naphroylthalic acid Atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid,
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains acetic acid as the sealing reagent (b1).
  • Suitable acidifying agents include methanesulfonic acid and / or 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid.
  • sealing reagents (b1) in the form of an acidifying agent sulfuric acid and / or acetic acid have proven to be particularly well suited.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) comprises at least one acidifying agent selected from the group of sulfuric acid, acetic acid and mixtures thereof as sealing reagent (b1).
  • the agent (b) contains the acidifying agent as sealing reagent (b1) in a cosmetic carrier, preferably in an aqueous cosmetic carrier.
  • the acidifying agents contained in the agent (b) exert an influence on the pH of the agent (b). It was found here that acidic pH values also have an advantageous effect on the dyeing performance that can be achieved in the process and the fastness properties of the dyeings.
  • the agent (b), comprising an acidifying agent as sealing reagent (b1) has a pH of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably from 3.0 to 6.0, more preferably from 4 .0 to 6.0 and very particularly preferably from 4.5 to 5.5.
  • the pH value can be measured using the usual methods known from the prior art, such as, for example, pH value measurement using glass electrodes using combination electrodes or using pH indicator paper.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains an acidifying agent as sealing reagent (b1) and has a pH of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably from 3.0 to 6.0 , more preferably from 4.0 to 6.0 and very particularly preferably from 4.5 to 5.5.
  • the pH values in the context of the present invention are pH values that were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • Agents (a) and (b) described above can also contain one or more optional ingredients. However, it is essential to the invention that at least one of the agents (a) and (b) also contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes.
  • the agent (a) in addition to the at least one organic silicon compound from the group of the silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms (a1), the anionic, branched polysaccharide with a repeating tetrasaccharide unit (a2), the at least one polyol and the water (a4) also contains at least one coloring compound selected from the group consisting of pigments and / or substantive dyes.
  • the agent (b), in addition to the sealing reagent (b1), also contains at least one coloring compound selected from the group consisting of pigments and / or substantive dyes.
  • the agent (a) and the agent (b) each also contain at least one coloring compound selected from the group consisting of pigments and / or substantive dyes.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) furthermore contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments.
  • Pigments in the context of the present invention are understood to mean coloring compounds which at 25 ° C. in water have a solubility of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0, 05 g / L.
  • the water solubility can for example take place by means of the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed out in a beaker. A stir fry is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C. for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved constituents of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.
  • the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.
  • Suitable pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) furthermore contains at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.
  • Preferred pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments.
  • Inorganic pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, burnt Terra di Siena or graphite, for example.
  • black pigments such as. B. iron oxide black, colored pigments such. B. ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used.
  • Colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and / or metal molybdates are particularly suitable.
  • Particularly preferred pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, pigment blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510) and / or carmine (cochineal).
  • Colored pearlescent pigments are also particularly preferred pigments. These are usually based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica is one of the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in conjunction with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • a preferred method is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) furthermore contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, Metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on natural or synthetic mica coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) furthermore contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, Metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on natural or synthetic mica coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • a preferably suitable pigment based on synthetic mica is, for example, Timiron® SynWhite Satin from Merck.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from pigments based on natural or synthetic mica, which with one or more metal oxides from the group of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine ( Sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI 77510) are coated.
  • the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from pigments based on natural or synthetic mica, which with one or more metal oxides from the group of titanium dioxide (CI 77891
  • agent (a) and / or agent (b) is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic pigments, which is selected from the group consisting of black iron oxide (CI 77499) , yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red iron oxide (CI 77491) and mixtures thereof.
  • Yellow iron oxide (or iron oxide yellow) is the name for FeO (OH), listed in the Color Index under Cl Pigment Yellow 42.
  • Red iron oxide (or iron oxide red) is the name for Fe 2 C> 3, listed in the Color Index under Cl Pigment Red 101.
  • red iron oxide pigments can be set to have a very yellowish cast (small particle size) to a very bluish cast (coarse particles).
  • Black iron oxide (or iron oxide black) is listed in the Color Index under Cl Pigment Black 11. Iron oxide black is ferromagnetic. The chemical formula is often given as Fe3C> 4 , in reality a mixed crystal of Fe 2 C> 3 and FeO with an inverse spinel structure is present. Additional black pigments are obtained by doping with chromium, copper or manganese.
  • Brown black iron oxide usually does not designate a defined pigment, but a mixture of yellow, red and / or black iron oxide.
  • Iron oxide pigments usually have particle diameters in the range from 2,000 to 4,000 nm. For some application purposes, in particular for cosmetic purposes, it can be advantageous to use iron oxide pigments with significantly smaller particle diameters. For example, hair colorations with iron oxide pigments which have a particle diameter in the range from 100 to 1,000 nm, more preferably 150 nm 700 nm, have better durability and better gray coverage.
  • agent (a) and / or agent (b) further comprises a coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes, the coloring compound comprising a pigment from the group of iron oxide pigments.
  • agent (a) and / or agent (b) further comprises a coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes, the coloring compound comprising a pigment from the group of iron oxide pigments and wherein the iron oxide pigment has a particle diameter in the range from 100 to 1,000 nm, more preferably 150 nm to 700 nm.
  • borosilicates are based on metal oxide-coated platelet-shaped borosilicates. These are coated, for example, with tin oxide, iron oxide (s), silicon dioxide and / or titanium dioxide. Such borosilicate-based pigments are available, for example, under the name MIRAGE from Eckart or Reflecks from BASF SE.
  • pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® or SynCrystal from Eckart Cosmetic Colors, Flamenco®, Cellini®, Cloisonne®, Duocrome®, Gemtone®, Timica®, MultiReflections, Chione from BASF SE and Sunshine® from Sunstar.
  • Very particularly preferred pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example: Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
  • particularly preferred pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example: Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iran Oxides), Silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iran Oxides), Silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient , CI 77492 (Iran Oxides), Silica
  • agent (a) and / or agent (b) used in the process can also contain one or more coloring compounds from the group of organic pigments.
  • the organic pigments are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or color lakes, for example from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene , Diketopyrrolopyorrol-, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and / or triarylmethane compounds can be selected.
  • Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680 , CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725 , CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of organic pigments, which is selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine , Sorgho, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12
  • the organic pigment can also be a colored lacquer.
  • the term “colored lacquer” is understood to mean particles which comprise a layer of absorbed dyes, the unit of particles and dye being insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions.
  • the particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or also aluminum.
  • the alizarin color varnish can be used as the color varnish.
  • the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) can also contain one or more coloring compounds from the group of organic pigments.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of organic pigments, which is selected from the group of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, Sorgho, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420,
  • agent (a) and / or agent (b) further comprises a coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes, the coloring compound comprising at least one pigment from the group of organic pigments and wherein the organic pigment has a particle diameter in the range from 100 to 1,000 nm, more preferably 150 nm to 700 nm.
  • suitable coloring compounds from the group of pigments are inorganic and / or organic pigments which have been modified with a polymer.
  • the polymer modification can, for example, increase the affinity of the pigments for the respective material of the at least one layer.
  • So-called metallic effect pigments can also be used as coloring compounds in agent (a) and / or agent (b).
  • the metallic effect pigments can in particular contain pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, pigments based on lenticular substrate platelets and / or pigments based on substrate platelets which comprise “vacuum metallized pigments” (VMP).
  • the substrate platelets comprise a metal, preferably aluminum, or an alloy.
  • Metal-substrate platelet-based metallic effect pigments preferably have a coating which, inter alia, acts as a protective layer.
  • Suitable metallic effect pigments include, for example, the pigments Alegrace® Marvelous, Alegrace® Spotify or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments.
  • suitable metallic effect pigments are the aluminum-based pigments of the SILVERDREAM series and the pigments of the VISIONAIRE series from Eckart based on aluminum or on metal alloys containing copper / zinc.
  • the use of the aforementioned pigments in means (a) and / or (b) is particularly preferred. It is also preferred if the pigments used have a certain particle size. This particle size leads, on the one hand, to a uniform distribution of the pigments in the polymer film formed and, on the other hand, prevents the hair or skin feeling rough after the cosmetic agent has been applied. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of 1 to 50 ⁇ m, preferably 5 to 45 ⁇ m, preferably 10 to 40 ⁇ m, in particular from 14 to 30 pm.
  • the mean particle size Dso can be determined using dynamic light scattering (DLS), for example.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - also contains one or more coloring compounds in the form of pigments in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - also has one or more coloring compound (s) in the form of pigments in a total amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight.
  • the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - also has one or more coloring compound (s) in the form of pigments in a total amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight.
  • the agents (a) and / or agents (b) used in the process can also contain one or more substantive dyes as coloring compound (s).
  • Substantive dyes are dyes that are absorbed directly onto the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color.
  • Substantive dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • the substantive dyes preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 1 g / l.
  • Substantive dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) also contains at least one anionic, cationic and / or nonionic substantive dye as a coloring compound.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) furthermore contains at least one coloring compound from the group of anionic, nonionic and / or cationic substantive dyes.
  • Suitable cationic substantive dyes are, for example, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51 Basic Red 76
  • Nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes can be used as nonionic substantive dyes.
  • Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, as well as 1 , 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) -aminophenol, 2 - (2-Hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3
  • the method is therefore characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) furthermore contains at least one anionic substantive dye as a coloring compound.
  • Anionic substantive dyes are also referred to as acid dyes.
  • Acid dyes are understood to mean substantive dyes which have at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or one sulfonic acid group (-SO3H).
  • -COOH carboxylic acid group
  • -SO3H sulfonic acid group
  • the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO3H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO-, -S03 _). The proportion of protonated forms increases with decreasing pH.
  • the carboxylic acid groups or sulfonic acid groups are in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations to maintain electrical neutrality.
  • the acid dyes can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.
  • the acid dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • the acid dyes preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 1 g / l.
  • alkaline earth salts such as calcium salts and magnesium salts
  • aluminum salts of acid dyes often have poorer solubility than the corresponding alkali salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g / L (25 ° C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a substantive dye.
  • An essential feature of the acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this usually being linked to different chromophoric systems.
  • Suitable chromophoric systems are found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes.
  • a method for coloring keratinic material is therefore preferred, which is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) further contains at least one anionic substantive dye as a coloring compound, which is selected from Group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes, the dyes from the aforementioned group each having at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) (-COONa), a potassium carboxylate group (-COOK), a sulfonic acid group (-SO3H), a sodium sulfonate group (-SOsNa) and / or a potassium sulfonate group (-SO3K).
  • a coloring compound which is selected from Group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroamino
  • Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n ° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n °: C 54, D&C Yellow N ° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n ° C 29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No.
  • Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n ° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n °: C 54, D&C Yellow N ° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA
  • Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n ° C015), Acid Orange 10 (Cl 16230; Orange G sodium salt),
  • Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI 20170; KATSU201; nosodiumsalt; Brown No.201; RESORCIN BROWN; ACID ORANGE 24; Japan Brown 201; D & C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (Cl14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, CI 16185, C-Red 46, Real Red D , FD&C Red # 2, Food Red 9, Naphthol Red S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, CI 17200), Acid Red 35 (CI C.1.18065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, lodeosin), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red n °
  • Acid Green 50 (Brillantklare indispensable BS, Cl 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n ° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20 470, COLIPA n ° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and / or D&C Brown 1.
  • the water solubility of the anionic substantive dyes can be determined, for example, in the following way. 0.1 g of the anionic substantive dye are placed in a beaker. A stir bar is added. Then 100 ml of water are added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C. on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If there are still undissolved residues, the amount of water is increased - for example in steps of 10 ml. Water is added until the amount of dye used has completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered.
  • the solubility test is repeated with a larger amount of water. If 0.1 g of the anionic substantive dye dissolves in 100 ml of water at 25 ° C., the solubility of the dye is 1 g / L.
  • Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and disulfonic acids of 2- (2-quinolyl) -1 H-indene-1, 3 (2H) -dione and has a water solubility of 20 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its water solubility is above 40 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1- (4-sulfophenyl) -4 - ((4-sulfophenyl) azo) - 1 H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and at 25 ° C well in Water soluble.
  • Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4 - [(2-Hydroxy-1-naphthyl) azo] benzene sulfonate. Its water solubility is more than 7 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8 - [(E) - (4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl) -diazenyl)] - 1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high solubility in water of more than 20 wt. %.
  • Acid Red 33 is the disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3- (phenylazo) -naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its water solubility is 2.5 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2- (1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl) benzoic acid, its water solubility is specified with more than 10 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2 - ( ⁇ 4- [N-ethyl (3-sulfonatobenzyl] amino] phenyl ⁇ ⁇ 4 - [(N-ethyl (3-sulfonatobenzyl) imino] -2,5-cyclohexadiene-1- ylidene ⁇ methyl) benzene sulfonate and has a water solubility of more than 20% by weight (25 ° C).
  • a very particularly preferred method is therefore characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) furthermore contains at least one coloring compound from the group of anionic substantive dyes, which is selected from the group of Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24 , Acid Red 14, Acid Red, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Oran ge 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D
  • the substantive dye or dyes in particular the anionic substantive dyes, can be used in various amounts in agent (a) and / or agent (b) depending on the desired color intensity. Particularly good results could be obtained when using the agent
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent - based on the total weight of the agent (a) and / or the agent
  • Preferred embodiments of the method with regard to the coloring compounds are disclosed below:
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair comprising the following steps:
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one inorganic pigment selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, Metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and mixtures thereof,
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair comprising the following steps:
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one inorganic pigment selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, Metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and mixtures thereof and at least one pigment selected from the group consisting of pigments based on a lamellar, metallic substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular, metallic substrate platelet, pigments based on a metallic substrate platelet, which has a "vacuum metallized pigment "(VMP), and mixtures thereof,
  • VMP vacuum metallized pigment
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one inorganic pigment selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, Metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and mixtures thereof and at least one pigment, comprising a) a substrate plate comprising mica, and ß) a coating comprising at least one first metal oxide (hydrate) layer comprising PO2, Sn0 2 and / or iron oxide (e),
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair comprising the following steps:
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one inorganic pigment selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, Metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and mixtures thereof,
  • VMP vacuum metallized pigment
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one inorganic pigment selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, Metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and mixtures thereof,
  • (b1) at least one sealing reagent, comprising a film-forming polymer, and (b2) at least one coloring compound, comprising a pigment, comprising a) a substrate platelet comprising mica, and ß) a coating comprising at least one first metal oxide (hydrate) layer, comprising " PO2, Sn0 2 and / or iron oxide (s).
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair comprising the following steps:
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one inorganic pigment selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, Metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and mixtures thereof,
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair comprising the following steps:
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one organic pigment selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorgho, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index Numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420,
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair comprising the following steps:
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one organic pigment selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorgho, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index Numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420,
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair comprising the following steps:
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one organic pigment selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorgho, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index Numbers CI
  • a pigment comprising a) a substrate platelet comprising mica, and ß) a coating comprising at least one first metal oxide (hydrate) layer comprising " PO2, Sn0 2 and / or iron oxide (s),
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair comprising the following steps:
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one organic pigment selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorgho, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index Numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420,
  • VMP vacuum metallized pigment
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair comprising the following steps:
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one organic pigment selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorgho, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index Numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420,
  • (b1) at least one sealing reagent, comprising a film-forming polymer, and (b2) at least one coloring compound, comprising a pigment, comprising a) a substrate platelet comprising mica, and ß) a coating comprising at least one first metal oxide (hydrate) layer, comprising " PO2, SnC> 2 and / or iron oxide (s).
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair comprising the following steps:
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • (a4) a maximum of 25% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the agent (a), and furthermore at least one coloring compound comprising at least one organic pigment selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorgho, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index Numbers CI
  • (b1) at least one sealing reagent, comprising a film-forming polymer, and (b2) at least one coloring compound, comprising a pigment, comprising a) a substrate plate comprising borosilicate glass, and ß) a coating comprising at least one first metal oxide (hydrate) layer, comprising " PO2, Sn0 2 , S1O2, and / or iron oxide (s).
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair comprising the following steps:
  • agent (a) to the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing:
  • the means (a) and / or (b) can additionally contain one or more surfactants.
  • surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to a hydrophobic residue, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but rather strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁇ -> - or -S03 () - group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl -3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and that
  • Cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate Cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs-C24 -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SOsH group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 C. Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates,
  • Imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines are particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2-Ci8-acylsarcosine.
  • the means (a) and / or (b) can additionally contain at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides and alkylene oxide addition products with fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with good properties are also obtained if, as nonionic surfactants, they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol which have been reacted with at least 2 moles of ethylene oxide.
  • agents (a) and / or (b) can also contain at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Cationic surfactants are understood to mean surfactants, that is to say surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants only contain positive charges. These surfactants are usually composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, the hydrophobic part usually consisting of a hydrocarbon structure (e.g. consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge (s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants are examples of cationic surfactants.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which can carry one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms as hydrophobic radicals,
  • the cationic charge can also be part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g. an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring) in the form of an onium structure.
  • the cationic surfactant can also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case, for example, with ester quats.
  • the cationic surfactants are used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
  • agents (a) and / or (b) can also contain at least one anionic surfactant.
  • Anionic surfactants are surface-active agents with exclusively anionic charges (neutralized by a corresponding counter cation).
  • anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 12 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • the anionic surfactants are used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent in question.
  • the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) can also contain a matting agent.
  • Suitable matting agents include, for example, (modified) starches, waxes, talc and / or (modified) silicas.
  • the amount of matting agent is preferably between 0.1 and 10% by weight based on the total amount of agent (a) or agent (b).
  • Agent (a) preferably contains a matting agent.
  • the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) can also contain a thickening agent.
  • the agent (a) and / or (b) contains a thickening agent.
  • a method for coloring keratinic material is therefore preferred, which is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) also contains a thickening agent.
  • Suitable thickeners include, for example, chemically modified celluloses, such as propyl, methylethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, sulfoethylcellulose, carboxymethylsulphoethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylsulfoethylcellulose, Hydroxyethylsulfoethylcellulose, Methylethylhydroxyethylcellulose, Methlylsulfoethylcellulose and / or Ethylsulfoethylcellulose.
  • chemically modified celluloses such as propyl, methylethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxy
  • a method for coloring keratinous material is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) further comprises a thickener selected from the group consisting of propyl cellulose, methylethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, methylhydroxyethyl cellulose, ethylhydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethyl cellulose, sulfoethyl cellulose, carboxymethylsulfoethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylsulfoethyl cellulose, hydroxyethylsulfoethyl cellulose, methylethylhydroxyethyl cellulose, methylsulfoethyl cellulose, ethylsulfoethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.
  • a thickener selected from the group consisting of propyl cellulose, methyleth
  • Particularly suitable thickeners are selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.
  • a method for coloring keratinous material is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) further contains a thickener selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.
  • galactomannans include galactomannans with the INCI name Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum (Guar Gum), galactomannans with the INCI name Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum (Locust Bean Gum), galactomannans with the INCI name Cassia Gum and galactomannans with the INCI name Caesalpinia Spinosa Tara Gum).
  • agent (a) and / or agent (b) furthermore contains at least one galactomannan which is selected from the group consisting of galactomannans with the INCI name Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum (guar gum ), Galactomannans with the INCI name Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Gum (Locust Bean Gum), galactomannans with the INCI name Cassia Gum and galactomannans with the INCI name Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (Tara Gum).
  • the galactomannan comprises a galactomannan with the INCI name Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (Tara Gum).
  • the amount of thickener is preferably between 0.1 and 10% by weight, based in each case on the total amount of agent (a) and / or agent (b).
  • the agents can also contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as solvents, fat components such as, for example, the C8-C3o fatty acid triglycerides, the C8-C30 fatty acid monoglycerides, the C8-C3o fatty acid diglycerides and / or the hydrocarbons; Structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; Perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugar and lactose; Dyes for coloring the agent; Anti-dandruff ingredients such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole; Amino acids and oligopeptides; Protein hydrolysates based on animals and / or plants,
  • the person skilled in the art will select these additional substances in accordance with the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, express reference is made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are used in the preparations according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
  • agents (a) and (b) are applied to the keratinic materials, in particular to human hair.
  • means (a) and (b) are the means ready to use.
  • the means (a) and (b) are different from each other.
  • the means (a) and (b) can in principle be applied simultaneously or successively, with successive application being preferred.
  • a method for treating keratin material, in particular for dyeing keratin material, in particular human hair, is therefore very particularly preferred, comprising the following steps in the order given: o in a first step, application of an agent (a) to the keratin material, wherein means (a) contains:
  • (b1) at least one sealing reagent, wherein at least one of the agents (a) and (b) furthermore contains at least one coloring compound from the group of the pigments and / or the substantive dyes.
  • means (a) and (b) are also particularly preferably used within one and the same coloring process, which means that between the use of means (a) and (b ) is a maximum of a few hours.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) is applied first and then the agent (b) is applied, the period between the application of the agents (a) and (b) being a maximum of 24 hours, is preferably a maximum of 12 hours and particularly preferably a maximum of 6 hours.
  • a characteristic feature of the agent (a) is its content of at least one reactive organic silicon compound (a1).
  • the reactive organic silicon compound or compounds (a1) enter into an oligomerization or polymerization reaction and in this way functionalize the hair surface as soon as they come into contact with it. In this way a first film is formed.
  • a second agent (b) is then applied to the hair.
  • the agent (b) comprising at least one film-forming polymer as sealing reagent (b1)
  • this interacts with the silane film and is thus bound to the keratinic materials.
  • the agent (b) comprising at least one alkalizing agent or acidifying agent as sealing reagent (b1)
  • the formation of the silane film is positively influenced.
  • the desired coloring of the keratinic material takes place with the aid of the coloring compound in means (a) and / or in means (b).
  • the coloring can be done by a colored silane film (the coloring compound is only in agent (a)), by a colored polymer film (the coloring compound is only in agent (b) and this contains a film-forming polymer as a sealing reagent (b1)) or by a colored silane film and by a colored polymer film (means (a) and (b) each contain at least one coloring compound and means (b) contain a film-forming polymer as a sealing reagent (b1)).
  • Rinsing out the keratinic material with water in steps (3) and (6) of the method is understood according to the invention to mean that only water is used for the rinsing process, without any further means other than means (a) and (b) would be used.
  • the agent (a) is first applied to the keratinic materials, in particular the human hair.
  • the agent (a) is allowed to act on the keratinic materials.
  • exposure times of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 20 seconds to 5 minutes and very particularly preferably from 30 seconds to 2 minutes on the hair have proven to be particularly advantageous.
  • the agent (a) can now be rinsed out of the keratinic materials before the agent (b) is applied to the hair in the subsequent step.
  • step (4) the agent (b) is now applied to the keratinic materials. After application, the agent (b) is now allowed to act on the hair.
  • the process allows dyeings with particularly good intensity and washfastness to be produced, even if the agent (b) is left to act for a short time.
  • Contact times of from 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 20 seconds to 5 minutes and very particularly preferably from 30 seconds to 3 minutes on the hair have proven to be particularly advantageous.
  • step (6) the agent (b) (and any agent (a) that is still present) is then rinsed out of the keratinic material with water.
  • sequence of steps (1) to (6) is preferably carried out within 24 hours.
  • the agent (a) contains the organic silicon compound (s) a class of highly reactive compounds which, when used, undergo hydrolysis or oligomerization and / or Can enter into polymerization. As a result of their high reactivity, these organic silicon compounds form a film on the keratinous material.
  • the agent (a ‘) itself is preferably formulated with a low water content or anhydrous.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a ') - based on the total weight of the agent (a') - has a water content of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 9% by weight. %, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.5 to 7% by weight.
  • the agent (a “) can contain water.
  • the water content of the agent (a ") is chosen such that the water content in the agent (a), which is created by mixing the agents (a ') and (a"), is a maximum of 25% by weight, based on the Total weight of means (a) is.
  • the ready-to-use agent (a) is produced by mixing the agents (a ') and (a ”).
  • the user can first stir or spill the agent (a ‘) which contains the organic silicon compound (s) (a1) with the agent (a”).
  • This mixture of (a ‘) and (a“) can now be applied to the keratinous materials by the user - either immediately after it has been produced or after a short reaction time of 10 seconds to 30 minutes. Subsequently, the user can apply the means (b) as described above.
  • an agent (a '' ') is used in the method, which contains a coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes, comprising at least one pigment selected from the group consisting of pigments based on a lamellar, metallic substrate platelets, pigments based on a lenticular, metallic substrate platelets, pigments based on a metallic substrate platelets comprising a “vacuum metallized pigment” (VMP), and mixtures thereof.
  • VMP vacuum metallized pigment
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a '' ') has at least one pigment selected from the group consisting of pigments based on a lamellar, metallic substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular, metallic substrate platelet, pigments based on a metallic substrate Substrate plate, which comprises a “vacuum metallized pigment” (VMP), and mixtures thereof.
  • VMP vacuum metallized pigment
  • agent (a) for a period of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 5 minutes,
  • the ready-to-use agent (a) is produced by mixing the agents (a ‘), (a“) and (a “‘).
  • the water content of the agent (a ") is selected such that the water content in the agent (a), which is produced by mixing the agents (a '), (a") and (a "') , a maximum of 25% by weight, based on the total weight of agent (a).
  • the means (a “‘) are preferably made up with a low water content or more preferably anhydrous.
  • the user can first stir or spill the agent (a ") with the metal pigment agent (a” ') and then stir the mixture obtained with the agent (a'), which contains the organic silicon compound (s) (a1) or spill.
  • This mixture of (a ‘), (a“) and (a “‘) can now be applied to the keratinic materials by the user - either directly after its manufacture or after a short reaction time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes. Subsequently, the user can apply the means (b) as described above.
  • Multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts)
  • kits-of-parts In order to increase user comfort, all the necessary means are preferably made available to the user in the form of a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts).
  • a second subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring keratinic material, comprising a first container with a means (a ‘), which means (a‘) contains:
  • (b1) at least one sealing reagent, wherein the components (a1), (a2) and (b1) have been disclosed in detail above and at least one of the agents (a ”) and (b) furthermore contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes.
  • the organic silicon compounds (a1) contained in the middle (a ‘) of the kit from the group of the silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms correspond to the organic silicon compounds (a1) which were also used in the middle (a) of the method described above.
  • the alginic acid and / or its salt (a2) contained in the agent (a ”) of the kit corresponds to the alginic acid and / or its salts (a2), which were also used in the agent (a) of the method described above.
  • the sealing reagent (b1) contained in the means (b) of the kit corresponds to the sealing reagent (b1) which was also used in the means (b) of the method described above.
  • a multi-component packaging unit for coloring keratinous material is packaged comprehensively separately from one another
  • (b1) at least one sealing reagent, components (a1), (a2) and (b1) being disclosed in detail above.
  • a multi-component packaging unit for coloring keratinic material, comprising a first container with a means (a '), which means (a') contains: at least one organic silicon compound, is preferred (a1) from the group of silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms, and a second container with an agent (a "), the agent (a") containing: (a2) an anionic, branched polysaccharide with a repeating tetrasaccharide unit,
  • (b1) at least one sealing reagent comprising a film-forming polymer, and furthermore at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes, components (a1), (a2) and (b1) being disclosed in detail above.
  • a multi-component packaging unit for coloring keratinous material, comprising a first container with a means (a '), which means (a') contains: at least one organic silicon compound, is preferred (a1) from the group of silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms, and a second container with an agent (a "), the agent (a") containing:
  • a4 water and at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes, comprising an organic pigment
  • VMP vacuum metallized pigment
  • (b1) at least one sealing reagent, components (a1), (a2), (a3) and (b1) being disclosed in detail above.
  • the agent (b) comprises at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or direct dyes, to prepare the ready-to-use agent (b) by mixing two agents (b ') and (b ”) .
  • the sealing reagent (b1) and the at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes made up separately from one another.
  • a multi-component packaging unit for coloring keratinous material
  • a multi-component packaging unit for coloring keratinous material
  • a means (a ') which means (a') contains: at least one organic silicon compound (a1) from the group of silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms, and a second container with an agent (a "), the agent (a") containing:
  • (b1) at least one sealing reagent, comprising a film-forming polymer, and a fourth container with an agent (b "), wherein the agent (b") contains: at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes, wherein components (a1), (a2) and (b1) have been disclosed in detail above.
  • the agents (b ‘) and / or (b) also contain a thickening agent.
  • a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) is also preferred, in which the agent (b) comprises a thickener selected from the group consisting of ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.
  • a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) is also preferred, in which the agent (a ”) and the agent (b) each comprise a thickener selected from the group consisting of ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof .
  • Polymerization speed for example, so that the polymerization is already completed before all parts of the hair can be treated. Too fast polymerization makes a full head treatment impossible. In the dyeing process, the too rapid polymerization manifests itself in an uneven color result, so that the areas that were last treated are only poorly colored.
  • the ready-to-use agent (a) was prepared by mixing 5 g of the agent (a ‘) and 15 g of the agent (a“). The pH of the agent (a) was adjusted to a value of 10.5 by adding ammonia or lactic acid.
  • the agent (a) was massaged into a strand of hair (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white) and allowed to act for 1 minute. Thereafter, the agent (a) was rinsed out with water.
  • the agent (b) was applied to the strand of hair, left to act for 5 minutes and then also rinsed out with water.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de coloration de matière kératinique, en particulier des cheveux humains, comprenant les étapes suivantes : - application d'un agent (a) sur la matière kératinique, ledit agent (a) contenant : (a1) au moins un composé organosilicié du groupe comprenant les silanes, ledit composé ayant un, deux ou trois atomes de silicium ; et (a2) un polysaccharide anionique réticulé doté d'un motif structural tétrasaccharidique, (a3) au moins un polyol et (a4) au maximum 25 % en poids d'eau. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation d'un agent (b), ledit agent (b) contenant : (b1) au moins un réactif de scellement, au moins l'un des agents (a) et (b) contenant en outre au moins un composé colorant du groupe constitué de pigments et/ou de colorants directs. L'invention concerne en outre un kit d'emballage multiconstituant (kit d'éléments) destiné à la coloration de matière kératinique.
EP21705466.7A 2020-04-08 2021-02-11 Procédé de coloration de matière kératinique, comprenant l'utilisation d'un composé organosilicié, d'un polysaccharide, d'un composé colorant et d'un agent de post-traitement Pending EP4132460A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE102020204541.0A DE102020204541A1 (de) 2020-04-08 2020-04-08 Verfahren zum Färben von keratinischem Material, umfassend die Anwendung von einer siliciumorganischen Verbindung, einem Polysaccharid, einer farbgebenden Verbindung und eines Nachbehandlungsmittels
PCT/EP2021/053309 WO2021204441A1 (fr) 2020-04-08 2021-02-11 Procédé de coloration de matière kératinique, comprenant l'utilisation d'un composé organosilicié, d'un polysaccharide, d'un composé colorant et d'un agent de post-traitement

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DE102021201097A1 (de) * 2021-02-05 2022-08-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zum Färben von keratinischem Material, enthaltend mindestens zwei voneinander verschiedene organische Siliciumverbindungen, mindestens ein Pigment und mindestens einen flüssigen Fettbestandteil und/oder ein Lösungsmittel

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