EP4051053B1 - System for taking up and applying a cosmetic composition - Google Patents

System for taking up and applying a cosmetic composition Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4051053B1
EP4051053B1 EP20789125.0A EP20789125A EP4051053B1 EP 4051053 B1 EP4051053 B1 EP 4051053B1 EP 20789125 A EP20789125 A EP 20789125A EP 4051053 B1 EP4051053 B1 EP 4051053B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
support
application
notably
configuration
cosmetic composition
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Application number
EP20789125.0A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
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EP4051053C0 (en
EP4051053A1 (en
Inventor
Henri Samain
Franck Giron
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D40/00—Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
    • A45D40/30—Masks for marking lips or eyelashes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D40/00—Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
    • A45D40/26—Appliances specially adapted for applying pasty paint, e.g. using roller, using a ball
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00—Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/10—Details of applicators
    • A45D2200/1009—Applicators comprising a pad, tissue, sponge, or the like
    • A45D2200/1018—Applicators comprising a pad, tissue, sponge, or the like comprising a pad, i.e. a cushion-like mass of soft material, with or without gripping means
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00—Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/25—Kits

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a system for taking up and applying a cosmetic composition, notably a makeup composition, onto a surface of the skin or of the lips to be treated, having a predefined shape.
  • a cosmetic composition notably a makeup composition
  • the invention also relates to processes for manufacturing such a system and to the cosmetic treatment processes, notably makeup processes, using same.
  • decal films which, when applied, transfer a pattern onto the skin.
  • This approach is not very satisfactory since it is very impractical, notably for application in raised, domed or recessed areas, and even more so for complex areas such as the eyes, which combine domed and recessed areas.
  • the decal film When the user comes to apply the decal film, some parts of the pattern are transferred and others are not. The result is thus often unattractive and difficult to put right, making it necessary to remove the makeup and start again.
  • Another approach consists in attaching, in particular flexible, stickers to the skin. This approach is relatively unsatisfactory since it requires, at a given moment, detachment of the stickers, which then produces discomfort and pulls on the skin, this being particularly unpleasant in the area of the eyes.
  • the sticker is made of a flexible material, it is possible to conform it to a surface having an axis of curvature, such as a cylinder, but not to a more complex surface, such as a spheroid.
  • a decal sheet or a sticker to such an area involves pulling it in certain directions, producing return forces, and thus folds or detachment, notably on the edges.
  • a sticker may be suitable for certain rather flat areas, for example for reproducing a liner effect on the eyelid, it cannot be used for areas with recessed and domed parts, in particular the entire area of the eyelids, or the area of the lips or the nose, without applying a large number of stickers. In this case, the positioning problems mentioned above for decals once again arise.
  • Another approach consists in using a three-dimensional applicator, on the surface of which a layer of coloured material is placed. Although this approach may be suitable for applying a flat colour tint, it is not suitable for creating patterns.
  • Applicators for applying makeup by transfer to the eyelids exist, such as the one from Huadi ⁇ Pretty: Glittering Eyeshadow to Seal.
  • This applicator comprises a rubber support having the approximate shape of an eyelid.
  • the makeup may be applied to the recessed concave part of the support with a brush, and the applicator may then be used for transferring the makeup onto the eyelid.
  • the applicator enables the colour to be applied reproducibly onto a surface.
  • Tests were performed involving painting or drawing a pattern on the surface of said support with a makeup fluid. However, since the dexterity of the users is generally limited, the results obtained are generally disappointing and asymmetric from one eye to the other, or from one day to another.
  • the decal film is laid with the colouring layer facing inward, and the film is then removed, the pattern ends up on the surface of the 3D applicator, but, on contact with the skin, limited transfer of the pattern onto the face is obtained.
  • the layer of colouring material would need to be easier to transfer onto the skin, for example by using fragile patterns, i.e. patterns made with a layer of colouring material which, when applied to a first surface, by gentle contact with a second surface, breaks down or fragments to pass from the first to the second surface.
  • fragile patterns can be made in the form of loose powder or fluid.
  • Another known approach consists in using a soft material, such as a sponge, and then depositing a layer of makeup composition on the surface thereof. All that is then necessary is to press the sponge onto the area to be made up.
  • the makeup composition spreads during the operation, causing slippage of the pattern, and damaging the pattern to such an extent as to make it unrecognizable.
  • Patent application WO 2015/097613 describes a process for applying makeup to an area of human keratin materials with the aid of a makeup device having a deformable substrate with a transfer surface that is intended to receive a cosmetic ink deposited by means of a digital printer and to come into contact with the keratin materials, the substrate being pressed against an imprint of the support through the action of deformation means such as negative pressure before the transfer surface is brought into contact with the area to be made up using a mechanical action.
  • a makeup device having a deformable substrate with a transfer surface that is intended to receive a cosmetic ink deposited by means of a digital printer and to come into contact with the keratin materials, the substrate being pressed against an imprint of the support through the action of deformation means such as negative pressure before the transfer surface is brought into contact with the area to be made up using a mechanical action.
  • Such a device has a fairly complex structure.
  • the present invention notably seeks to meet this need.
  • One subject of the invention is thus a system for taking up and applying a cosmetic composition, notably a makeup composition, onto a surface of the skin or the lips to be treated, having a predefined shape, the system including:
  • the makeup in particular in the case of a pattern, is applied while precisely following the relief of the area concerned, using the adaptation layer attached to the support, in the application configuration.
  • the cosmetic composition is preferably in the form of a transferable printed film.
  • the invention applies to the application of a cosmetic composition to human keratin materials.
  • human keratin materials refers to the skin, including the scalp, the lips, the nails, the hair and the eyebrows, and preferably the lips or the facial skin, notably that of the eyelids or of the cheeks.
  • the invention applies most particularly to the application of makeup to the eyelids.
  • Said receiving surface of the support may be capable of taking two different configurations, said incurved application configuration roughly matching the profile of the surface to be treated and a configuration for taking up the cosmetic composition.
  • the invention thus makes it possible to easily take up a film printed on a flat transfer surface, without damaging said film, by using the support in the take-up configuration equipped with the adaptation layer according to the invention.
  • the adaptation layer can be deformed and made to pass from one configuration to the other without touching said layer. The risk of deteriorating the cosmetic composition forming a pattern deposited on the adaptation layer is thereby reduced.
  • the adaptation layer of the application member may be configured so that the relief of the second surface of the application member, when the support is in the take-up configuration, adapts to the relief of a surface including the cosmetic composition to take it up, notably a printing support.
  • the separation between the first surface of the application member and the surface bearing the cosmetic composition is advantageously small. Gentle crushing of the adaptation layer may then suffice to place said first surface of the application member in contact with the cosmetic composition and to take it up.
  • the system also includes a second support having a receiving surface which may take a configuration for taking up the cosmetic composition, different from the application configuration, the two supports notably being interchangeable.
  • the adaptation layer of the application member is configured so that the relief of the second surface of the application member, when the second support is in the take-up configuration, adapts to the relief of a surface including the cosmetic composition to take it up, notably a printing support.
  • the surface of the support can form a developable surface.
  • the application surface may be a part of a cylinder.
  • the support makes it most particularly possible to take up a transferable print from the surface of an applicator roller or from the outer face of a domed pad.
  • the surface of the support may have a shape opposite to that taken in the application configuration.
  • the surface of the support in the take-up configuration, may be substantially flat.
  • the support makes it most particularly possible to take up a transferable print from the surface of a flat surface.
  • the surface of the support may have a shape that is concave or convex towards the exterior. This makes it possible in particular to match the relief of the eyelid.
  • the first surface of the application member advantageously has a shape that is adapted to said surface to be treated.
  • the application configuration may be chosen so that the receiving surface of the support has a geometrical shape close to the shape of the surface to be treated, notably a morphological shape.
  • a morphological shape Such a choice makes it possible to minimize the variations in thickness of the adaptation layer required to reproduce the morphological shape of the surface to be treated, large variations in thickness of the adaptation layer entailing the risk of embrittling it and causing it to be rapidly deteriorated.
  • morphological shape means a shape that reproduces the negative imprint of an area of keratin materials.
  • the surface of the support in the application configuration, has a shape that is suitable for application of the cosmetic composition to an eyelid.
  • the support(s) are made of an undeformable material, notably a polymeric, metallic or composite material, or glass, ceramic, hard plastic or plaster.
  • an undeformable material notably a polymeric, metallic or composite material, or glass, ceramic, hard plastic or plaster.
  • a material whose Shore A hardness is greater than 30 and better still greater than 50 is used, for example.
  • the support(s) are made of a deformable material, notably an elastically or plastically deformable material, in particular rubber, plastic or metal foil which is thin enough to be flexible.
  • the support is connected to at least two elements that are movable relative to each other, such that a relative movement of these two elements brings about a mechanical stress on the support and causes the latter to deform between a configuration for taking up cosmetic composition and the application configuration.
  • the support advantageously passes from one configuration to the other, and vice versa, without it being necessary to apply a pressure manually to the application surface of the adaptation layer.
  • the cosmetic composition taken up thus remains intact.
  • the cosmetic composition forms a pattern, this pattern can be transferred precisely and without deterioration.
  • variable-thickness adaptation layer is made of a deformable, notably elastomeric, material or includes a foam.
  • the adaptation layer is thus advantageously a soft layer which can easily be modelled.
  • the adaptation layer can be modelled to give it a shape that is substantially complementary to the surface to be treated.
  • the adaptation layer may be elastically deformable, being returned by elasticity into its initial configuration, which may correspond to the application configuration or the take-up configuration of the support, preferably the take-up configuration.
  • the adaptation layer may be in a single layer or multiple layers.
  • the adaptation layer may include at least one elastomer chosen from the following non-limiting list: copolymerized butadiene-styrene, butadiene-nitrile or isobutylene-isoprene, copolymerized chloroethylene-polysulfide, polysulfides, EPDM (ethylene-propylene-diene monomer) or polyethylene-propylene diamine or polyurethanes, or a silicone elastomer, for example VMQ (vinyl methyl silicone) or MQ, FVMQ (fluorosilicone), PVMQ (phenyl silicone).
  • VMQ vinyl methyl silicone
  • MQ methyl silicone
  • FVMQ fluorosilicone
  • PVMQ phenyl silicone
  • the adaptation layer may include a foam chosen from the following non-limiting list: polyurethane foam, latex foam, polyethylene foam or melamine foam.
  • the adaptation layer may be non-absorbent.
  • the adaptation layer is advantageously non-porous, at least on the surface of the application member intended to receive the cosmetic composition. Said take-up and application surface may be relatively smooth.
  • the application surface may be made non-porous by the presence of a skin obtained by moulding on the foam.
  • the thickness of the adaptation layer corresponds, for example, at each point of said layer, to the separation between the surface to be treated and the receiving surface of the support in the application configuration.
  • the variations in thickness of the adaptation layer may thus depend on each person.
  • the shape of the application surface is advantageously personalized and adapted to the morphology of the user, the system notably being custom-made. This personalized shape enables precise transfer of the cosmetic composition, in particular when said composition forms a pattern.
  • the thickness of the adaptation layer measured along the longitudinal axis along which extends the support, may be between 1 mm and 10 mm, better still between 1 mm and 5 mm.
  • the system according to the invention includes a means for attaching the adaptation layer to the receiving surface of the support, notably a light adhesive, a magnet or a hook-and-loop tape, the adaptation layer preferably being configured to be removably attached to the receiving surface of the support. It is thus possible to use the same adaptation layer in combination with different supports each having a given geometrical shape. In this way, a single adaptation layer can serve for making up several areas of keratin materials.
  • the adaptation layer is definitively attached to the support.
  • the system may be configured so that the passage from one configuration to the other takes place automatically as a result of the user acting on the system.
  • the support may be configured to take only the two configurations. As a variant, the support may take more than two configurations, notably an intermediate configuration.
  • the system may be configured to be returned automatically, as soon as the user releases it, into one of the configurations by an elastic return member and/or by the inherent shape of the support, when the latter is elastically deformable.
  • the cosmetic composition is preferably in the form of a print on a flat transfer surface, on contact therewith the application surface being brought into the take-up configuration of the applicator.
  • the cosmetic composition may be deposited onto the transfer surface in the form of printed coloured patterns.
  • the print may be made on a film made of plastic material.
  • the printer may be a digital printer, notably a laser printer designed to allow the formation by electrophotography or magnetophotography of a layer of composition having a pattern on a transfer surface using at least one cosmetic toner and to dispense the toner present on the transfer surface in a state that is sufficiently free to allow it to be taken up or transferred by contact with the human keratin materials.
  • cosmetic toner should be understood to mean a pulverulent cosmetic composition that is compatible with the formation of an image via an electrophotographic or magnetophotographic process as used in laser printers.
  • the toner is cosmetic in the sense that it is compatible with application to human keratin materials.
  • the formulation of the toner may be different. For example, for application to the hair or nails, it is possible to use certain compounds that might not be used for application to the lips, for example.
  • the laser printer may have a deactivated or deactivatable fuser.
  • the printer is an inkjet printer, for example a thermal or piezoelectric inkjet printer, or a sublimation printer.
  • the print may be made in the form of raster spots so as to form a halftone image, for example a monochromatic or polychromatic image.
  • the pattern formed by printing may be of any type. This pattern may reproduce the appearance of relief and/or colour heterogeneities of the skin, for example freckles or a mole.
  • the pattern obtained by printing may have several areas of different colours. In a variant, the pattern obtained by printing is a flat tint.
  • the cosmetic composition may be in fluid or pulverulent form when borne by the application surface and before application to the keratin materials.
  • the cosmetic composition When it is fluid, the cosmetic composition has, for example, a viscosity ranging from 1 mPa.s to 500 mPa.s and preferably from 1 mPa.s to 300 mPa.s at 25°C.
  • the viscosity of a composition used in the invention may be measured via any process known to those skilled in the art, and notably according to the following conventional process.
  • a person skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles M1, M2, M3 and M4 on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to perform the measurement.
  • the cosmetic composition may take the form of a transferable print corresponding to a layer of powder, notably containing pigments, or to a thickness of fluid, deposited by inkjet for example, containing one or more dyes and/or one or more pigments.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, organic lakes, nacres, and glitter flakes, or colouring polymers.
  • dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, organic lakes, nacres, and glitter flakes, or colouring polymers.
  • pigments should be understood to mean white or coloured, mineral or organic particles of any form, which are insoluble in the cosmetic medium and which are intended to colour the cosmetic composition.
  • organic lakes should be understood to mean organic pigments formed from a dye attached to a substrate.
  • nacres should be understood to mean iridescent particles of any form, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or synthesized.
  • the pigments may be white, black or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.
  • mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder.
  • organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments and lakes of D & C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.
  • the nacres may be chosen from white nacres such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacres such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated notably with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • water-soluble dyes mention may be made of the disodium salt of ponceau, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll and methylene blue.
  • liposoluble dyes that may be mentioned are Sudan Red III (CTFA: D&C Red 17), lutein, quinizarine green (CTFA: D&C Green 6), alizurol purple SS (CTFA: D&C Violet 2), Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Orange 5, quinoline yellow, curcumin, and carotenoid derivatives such as lycopene, beta-carotene, bixin or capsanthin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the colouring polymers are generally copolymers based on at least two different monomers, at least one of which is a monomeric organic dye. Such polymeric dyes are known to a person skilled in the art.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more dyestuffs, notably photochromic pigments, i.e. dyestuffs which have the property of changing colour when they are irradiated with a light source of a certain frequency, and then of regaining their initial colour, or a similar colour, when the irradiation is stopped.
  • dyestuffs notably photochromic pigments, i.e. dyestuffs which have the property of changing colour when they are irradiated with a light source of a certain frequency, and then of regaining their initial colour, or a similar colour, when the irradiation is stopped.
  • photochromic dyestuffs i.e. dyestuffs which may have the property of changing colour when they are irradiated with a light source of a certain frequency, and then of regaining their initial colour, or a similar colour, when the irradiation is stopped.
  • photochromic dyestuffs that may notably be mentioned are:
  • the cosmetic composition may also include one or more fillers, notably in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight.
  • fillers should be understood to mean colourless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which it is manufactured. These fillers notably serve to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.
  • the fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powder (Nylon) (Orgasol from Atochem), poly- ⁇ -alanine powder and polyethylene powder, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel (Nobel Industrie), or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap from the company Dow Coming) and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls from Toshiba), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxya
  • the cosmetic composition may also include an additional polymer such as a film-forming polymer.
  • filmforming polymer means a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support, notably to keratin materials.
  • film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof, in particular acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, and cellulose-based polymers, for instance nitrocellulose.
  • this toner may include, besides a colouring agent, a compound for controlling the electrical charge, a particular additional filler, a lubricant, a wax and/or a binder.
  • the particles of the toner have a mean size of between 1 and 16 ⁇ m.
  • the toner includes, for example, pigments with a particle size of between 1 and 10 ⁇ m.
  • the composition may include both a hydrophilic phase including one or more compounds that are miscible with water at 20°C and an oily phase including one or more water-immiscible compounds.
  • the hydrophilic phase may form a dispersed phase in a continuous phase formed by the oily phase; a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion is thus obtained.
  • the oily phase forms at 20°C a dispersed phase in a continuous phase formed by the hydrophilic phase; an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion is thus obtained.
  • the hydrophilic phase and/or the oily phase may each include one or more dyestuffs.
  • the composition may include a surfactant in order to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, or a water-in-oil surfactant. It may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based or silicone surfactants, the HLB of which will be chosen according to the desired direction of emulsion, for example less than 8 for W/O emulsions, advantageously from 3 to 7, and for example greater than or equal to 8 for direct emulsions.
  • silicone surfactants that may be mentioned are those of the alkyldimethicone copolyol type and of the dimethicone copolyol type.
  • non-silicone surfactants examples include nonionic surfactants such as the (poly)oxyalkylenated (C2-C3 alkyl), (poly)glycerolated derivatives of alcohols, of esters, of ethers comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based group containing at least 10 carbon atoms, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, (poly)glycerolated sorbitan esters or ethers; alkyl polyglucosides and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic surfactants such as the (poly)oxyalkylenated (C2-C3 alkyl), (poly)glycerolated derivatives of alcohols, of esters, of ethers comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based group containing at least 10 carbon atoms, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, (poly)glycerolated sorbitan esters or ethers; alkyl polyglucosides and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic surfactants may be chosen, for example, from alkyl (ether) sulfates, sulfonates, (alkyl)phosphates, salts, notably metal salts, of C10-C30 acids; these surfactants comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based group containing at least 10 carbon atoms and may or may not be (poly)oxyalkylenated (C2-C3 alkyl); and mixtures thereof.
  • the compound(s) of the oily phase may have a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 5% by weight.
  • the compound(s) of the oily phase may be chosen from the oils usually used in cosmetics, which may be chosen from natural or synthetic, hydrocarbon-based, silicone or fluoro oils, which are optionally branched, alone or as a mixture.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that is capable of remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour, and notably having a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, of less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa).
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils notably of plant, mineral, animal or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, squalane, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes (Parleam), perhydrosqualene, macadamia oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, beauty-leaf oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cotton oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil, shea butter oil; linear, branched or cyclic esters containing more than 6 carbon atoms, notably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as esters of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid or of stearic acid; esters derived from long-chain acids or alcohols (i.e.
  • esters of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a higher fatty acid residue including from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain including from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular C 12-C36 esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, and glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; higher fatty acids, notably of C 14-C22, such as oleic acid,
  • decanol dodecanol
  • liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides
  • synthetic esters and ethers notably of fatty acids, for instance purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate
  • hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate or fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates
  • polyol esters such as
  • non-phenyl silicones notably such as polysiloxanes (also known as dimethicone).
  • phenyl silicones in other words silicones comprising at least one phenyl substituent
  • phenyl trimethicones trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxanes, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones, alone or as mixtures.
  • non-silicone volatile oils notably C8-C16 isoparaffins, such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane.
  • Linear or cyclic, but preferably linear, volatile silicone oils may also be suitable for use, notably such as decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile or non-volatile alkanes that are liquid at room temperature, and more particularly decane, heptane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclohexane and isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • isododecane (boiling point: 180°C), isopropyl myristate (boiling point: 168°C), isostearyl alcohol (boiling point: 331°C), isodecyl neopentanoate (boiling point: 272°C), isononyl isononanoate (boiling point: 285°C), oleyl alcohol (boiling point: 315°C), 2-octyldodecanol (boiling point: 358°C), isopropyl palmitate (boiling point: 340°C), isopropyl isostearate (boiling point: 361°C), and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil may be present in the cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 2% to 60%, preferably ranging from 2% to 40%, preferably ranging from 15% to 70% and particularly preferably ranging from 2% to 25%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the oily phase may also comprise substances that are solid at room temperature, such as waxes.
  • wax means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, with a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C.
  • melting By bringing the wax to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make it miscible with the oils that may be present and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
  • the waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxes and/or silicone waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 40°C and better still greater than 50°C.
  • waxes that may be used in the composition mention may be made of beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes, and silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms.
  • the composition in particular in emulsion form, may contain from 0.01% to 30% by weight and better still from 1% to 20% by weight of waxes relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • a subject of the invention is also a process for manufacturing a system, as described above, for taking up and applying a cosmetic composition, notably a makeup composition, to a surface of the skin or the lips to be treated having a predefined shape, in which the shape of the outer face and/or the thickness of the adaptation layer is chosen from an acquisition of the topography of at least one part of said surface to be treated, notably by means of a 3D scan.
  • a cosmetic composition notably a makeup composition
  • outer face of the adaptation layer should be understood as meaning the face of said layer which is on the opposite side from the support.
  • Use may be made of any 3D scanner that is capable of capturing the volume and the dimensions of the area concerned, to perform the 3D scan.
  • the 3D scan is advantageously a scan produced by projecting fringes of light, but any other structured light is possible.
  • a file that is readable by a CNC machine or by a 3D printer is advantageously generated, said file being able to be saved, notably automatically, for example in the cloud or on a central server.
  • This file may enable the printing of the adaptation layer by 3D printing and/or the printing of a mould for forming the adaptation layer.
  • a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic assembly including, in the same packaging, at least one system, according to the invention, for taking up and applying a cosmetic composition to a surface of the skin or the lips to be treated having a predefined shape, and a plurality of transferable printed films, intended to be taken up by the first take-up and application surface of the application member of the system when the receiving surface of the support is in the take-up configuration, the films notably being different from each other in their composition and/or their pattern.
  • the receiving surface of the support may be capable of taking two different configurations, an incurved application configuration roughly matching the profile of the surface to be treated and a configuration for taking up the cosmetic composition.
  • the system includes two supports, one having a receiving surface which can take a configuration for taking up the cosmetic composition and the other having a receiving surface which can take an incurved application configuration roughly matching the profile of the surface to be treated, which is different from the take-up configuration.
  • a subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of a surface of the skin or the lips to be treated having a predefined shape, notably a makeup process, including the application, to said surface, of a cosmetic composition, which is notably in the form of a transferable printed film, by means of a take-up and application system according to the invention, in which process
  • Figure 1 illustrates an example of a system 1 for taking up and applying a cosmetic composition P, according to the invention, in a take-up configuration.
  • This system 1 includes a support 21 having a receiving surface 22 and a deformable application member 9 mounted on said receiving surface of the support 21.
  • the application member 9 has a first take-up and application surface 100 and a second surface 101, opposite the first, which serves for attaching to the receiving surface of the support 9, and, between the first and second surfaces, an adaptation layer 10 of variable thickness e.
  • the support includes a gripping member 20, a shaft in the example described, which facilitates the handling of the system 1 by the user.
  • said receiving surface 22 of the support 21 is capable of taking two different configurations, a configuration for taking up the cosmetic composition P, shown in figure 1 , and an incurved application configuration roughly matching the profile of the surface to be treated, shown in figure 2 .
  • the adaptation layer 10 has a shape chosen such that the relief of the first surface 100 of the application member 9, when the support 21 is in the application configuration, corresponds more finely to that of the surface to be treated than that of the receiving surface 22 of the support 21.
  • the receiving surface 22 of the support 21 is substantially flat.
  • the adaptation layer 10 is made of a deformable material, notably an elastomeric material
  • the support 21 is made of an undeformable material, notably chosen from polymeric, metallic or composite materials, or glass, ceramic, hard plastic or plaster.
  • the adaptation layer may include a foam.
  • Figure 2 illustrates the system 1 of figure 1 when the support 21 is in an application configuration.
  • This configuration is used, for example, for applying makeup to an eyelid.
  • the first surface 100 of the application member 9 has a shape adapted to said surface to be treated, and also the second surface 101 and the receiving surface 22 of the support 21, these surfaces being incurved in the example described, and more particularly, cave towards the exterior, so as to have, for example, a shape complementary to the morphology of an eyelid.
  • the application surface 100 bears the cosmetic composition P which will be applied to the surface to be treated Z of the user, taken up beforehand by a support 21 in the take-up configuration.
  • the thickness e of the adaptation layer 10 advantageously corresponds, at each point of said layer, to the separation between the surface to be treated Z and the receiving surface 22 of the support 21 in the application configuration.
  • the shape of the outer face and the thickness of the adaptation layer 10 are advantageously determined by acquisition of the topography of at least a part of said surface to be treated Z, notably by means of a 3D scan. At least a part of the adaptation layer 10, notably on the application surface 100 side, or a mould for manufacturing it, can be made by machining a preform or by additive manufacturing, notably by 3D printing.
  • the system 1 includes a means for attaching the adaptation layer 10 to the receiving surface 22 of the support at 21, which is an adhesive layer 11 in the example under consideration.
  • Figures 3a, 3b , 3c and 3d illustrate the steps for taking up a cosmetic composition P using one embodiment of a system according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition P is a transferable printed film representing a pattern and placed on a flexible support 13. The printing was performed, for example, using a laser printer, the fuser of which was deactivated.
  • the system 1 includes two different interchangeable supports, one 21 being able to take a take-up configuration, and the other 21' an application configuration.
  • the adaptation layer 10 is configured to be removably attached to the receiving surface of the supports.
  • the system 1 which is in its take-up configuration is brought close to the flexible support 13, as illustrated in figure 3a .
  • pressure is applied so that the adaptation layer 10 is compressed and the application surface 100 at least partially comes into contact with the cosmetic composition P.
  • the system 1 is then moved away from the flexible support 13.
  • the cosmetic composition P then rests on the first surface 100 of the application member 9, as illustrated in figure 3c .
  • the application member 9 is then detached from the support 21, as illustrated in figure 3d , to be able to attach it to a second support for the application.
  • Figures 4a, 4b , 4c and 4d illustrate the steps for applying a cosmetic composition P according to the preceding embodiment.
  • the application member 9 is attached to a second support 21' in application configuration.
  • the adaptation layer 10 is thus deformed and, once attached to the support 21', reproduces the negative imprint of the surface to be treated.
  • the system 1 is brought close to the surface Z to be treated so as to bring the cosmetic composition P into contact with said surface Z.
  • the adaptation layer 10 thus makes it possible to fill the space between the surface to be treated Z and the support 21'.
  • the cosmetic composition can then be transferred with reduced risk of the pattern being deteriorated.
  • the system 1 according to the invention is moved away from the surface to be treated Z, as may be seen in figure 4d , the application thus being achieved.
  • Figure 5 shows a variant of system 1 according to the invention, in which the support 21 is connected to two elements that are movable relative to each other. A relative movement of these two elements brings about a mechanical stress on the support 21 and causes the latter to deform between the configuration for taking up cosmetic composition P and the application configuration.
  • the system 1 includes rigid links 5, each formed by an arm connecting an actuating element 14 of the system 1 to the ends 2a and 2b of the support 21.
  • the actuating element is in the form of a push button 14 that is movable relative to the body of the system 1, which defines a gripping part 7, the links 5 being articulated on said body.
  • the body of the system defining the gripping part 7 is, in this example, provided with wings 12a and 12b for holding the system 1 when the user presses the push button 14. These wings define two ergonomic rests configured to receive the fingers of a user in order to hold the system 1 while another finger presses the push button 14.
  • the user presses the push button 14, causing the links 5 to pivot and to deform the support 21, which brings about deformation of the adaptation layer 10, without the need to touch the cosmetic composition P deposited on the first surface 100 of the application member 9.
  • the invention is not limited to the examples that have just been described. Other types of support 21, 21' and of adaptation layers 10 may be used, as may other materials for the production thereof.

Landscapes

  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Application Of Or Painting With Fluid Materials (AREA)
EP20789125.0A 2019-10-28 2020-10-12 System for taking up and applying a cosmetic composition Active EP4051053B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1912034A FR3102349B1 (fr) 2019-10-28 2019-10-28 Système de prélèvement et d’application d’une composition cosmétique
PCT/EP2020/078549 WO2021083643A1 (en) 2019-10-28 2020-10-12 System for taking up and applying a cosmetic composition

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP4051053A1 EP4051053A1 (en) 2022-09-07
EP4051053B1 true EP4051053B1 (en) 2023-11-08
EP4051053C0 EP4051053C0 (en) 2023-11-08

Family

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP20789125.0A Active EP4051053B1 (en) 2019-10-28 2020-10-12 System for taking up and applying a cosmetic composition

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US20220400835A1 (zh)
EP (1) EP4051053B1 (zh)
CN (1) CN114615912B (zh)
ES (1) ES2966856T3 (zh)
FR (1) FR3102349B1 (zh)
WO (1) WO2021083643A1 (zh)

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ES2966856T3 (es) 2024-04-24
WO2021083643A1 (en) 2021-05-06
FR3102349A1 (fr) 2021-04-30
CN114615912B (zh) 2024-03-08
EP4051053C0 (en) 2023-11-08
FR3102349B1 (fr) 2021-11-12
US20220400835A1 (en) 2022-12-22
EP4051053A1 (en) 2022-09-07
CN114615912A (zh) 2022-06-10

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