EP4027972A1

EP4027972A1 - Anhydrous composition for topical use that is in the form of a dispersed phase based on at least one short diol in a continuous fatty phase

Info

Publication number: EP4027972A1
Application number: EP20758272.7A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Alice DENIS; Séverine SIGURANI; Catherine Bulcourt
Original assignee: Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Current assignee: Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Priority date: 2019-08-09
Filing date: 2020-08-04
Publication date: 2022-07-20
Also published as: JP2022543399A; KR20220045187A; CN114206308A; US20220378672A1; FR3099700A1; WO2021028633A1; FR3099700B1

Abstract

Composition (E1) for topical use comprising a gelled phase (A1) dispersed in a continuous phase (A2), with: the gelled phase (A1) comprising at least one diol having from three to eight atoms and represented either by formula (Ia): R^a1-C(R^b1)(OH)-C(OH)(R^c1)(R^d1) (Ia), in which each of the Ra1, Rb1, Rc1 and Rd1 radicals represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or saturated aliphatic radical having from one to five carbon atoms, or by formula (Ib): R^a1-C(R^b1)(OH)-[C(R^e1)(R^f1)]t-C(OH)(R^c1)(R^d1) (Ib), in which t is equal to one, two or three, each of the R^a1, R^b1, R^c1, R^d1, R^e1 and R^f1 radicals represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or saturated aliphatic radical having from one to five carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of the R^a1 or R^b1 radicals and/or at least one of the R^c1 or R^d1 radicals do not represent a hydrogen atom, and - a fatty phase (A2) comprising at least one oil, at least one emulsifying surfactant system (S1) and at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2).

Description

COMPOSITION FOR TOPICAL ANHYDROUS USE IN THE FORM OF A DISPERSED PHASE BASED ON AT LEAST ONE SHORT IOD IN A CONTINUOUS FAT PHASE

The subject of the present invention is novel compositions which are in the form of a dispersion of a gelled phase, comprising at least one diol consisting of three to eight carbon atoms, in an oily phase, as well as their uses in cosmetics, in pharmaceuticals in the textile industry, and in the paper industry.

The cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical and pharmaceutical compositions can be provided in the form of aqueous solutions, emulsions or powders.

An emulsion is an initially heterogeneous mixture of two liquid substances which are immiscible with one another, the two substances being called “phases”. Said mixture becomes macroscopically homogeneous by an external operation such as for example mechanical stirring with a suitable speed and mobile, or the addition of an amphiphilic substance called surfactant. When presented in macroscopically homogeneous form, the mixture consists of a discontinuous phase, dispersed in the other phase which is called "continuous phase".

Emulsions are particularly preferred forms because they make it possible to convey both water-soluble substances and liposoluble substances which are commonly used in these applications. A distinction is made between oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, the continuous phase of which consists of a hydrophilic phase, generally an aqueous phase, and the dispersed phase by a lipophilic fatty phase, and water-in-oil emulsions (E / H), the continuous phase of which is constituted by a lipophilic fatty phase and the dispersed phase by a hydrophilic phase, generally an aqueous phase.

Oil-in-water emulsions are inherently more stable than water-in-oil emulsions; water-in-oil emulsions nevertheless have many advantages. Indeed, the separation between the water droplets reduces the possibility of proliferation of microorganisms. In addition, the use of preservatives, which is essential when the continuous phase is aqueous, can be avoided, or lessened, when the continuous phase is fatty. Water-in-oil emulsions are much less sensitive to low temperature than oil-in-water emulsions. Finally, for topical applications for cosmetic use, the European patent application published under the number EP 1961455 A1 discloses that a phase continuous oily allows to cover the skin after application of the water-in-oil emulsion, which protects it from dehydration and against external substances, forming a persistent oily film thus allowing to treat dry skin.

The solutions proposed in the prior art for preparing dermatological emulsions in the water-in-oil form are not satisfactory because either the silicone derivatives used are volatile and can exhibit harmful effects towards the environment and the users, or the silicone derivatives used are not very volatile and they then confer unpleasant sensory properties after topical application, such as, for example, sensations of stickiness on the skin.

The European patent application published under the number EP 1.459 801 A2 and the international patent application published under the number W02014167200A1, disclose the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions comprising, for 100% of their masses, from 60% to 98 % by mass of aqueous phase gelled by virtue of the presence therein of a crosslinked polyelectrolyte, make it possible to partially solve the technical problem. Indeed, the water-in-oil emulsions obtained are characterized by a better persistence when applied to the skin, making it possible to resist sweat, bathing water or rain. However, in an approach of permanent improvement, research is directed towards the preparation of galenic forms even more resistant to water, to sweat, also making it possible to convey several active ingredients, cosmetics or pharmaceuticals either partially insoluble or unstable in aqueous medium.

This is why the inventors have sought to develop new emulsions in which the continuous phase is oily and the dispersed phase is polar but non-aqueous, free of added water, and which do not have the drawbacks described above, which remain homogeneous. at room temperature (greater than or equal to 20 ° C and less than or equal to 25 ° C) and at 45 ° C after storage for at least three months.

A solution of the present invention is a composition (E1) for topical use comprising a gelled phase (Al) free from added water and dispersed in a continuous phase (A2), with: the gelled phase (Al) comprising at least one diol chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 2,3-pentanediol, 2,3-hexanediol, 2,5-hexanediol or 2-methyl 2,4-pentanediol, and a fatty phase (A2) comprising at least one oil, at least one emulsifying surfactant (SI) and at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2).

Preferably, said composition (El) comprises, for 100% of its mass:

- from 60 to 98% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, and even more preferably from 60% to 90% by weight of the gelled phase (Al), and

- from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight of the fatty phase (A2).

The emulsifying surfactant (S1) is preferably selected from the members of the group consisting of alkylpolyglycoside compositions, alkylpolyglycoside and fatty alcohol compositions, and the emulsifying surfactant (S2) is preferably selected from the elements of the group consisting of esters of polyglycerols, esters of alkoxylated polyglycerols, polyhydroxystearates of polyglycols, polyhydroxystearates of polyglycerols, polyhydroxystearates of alkoxylated polyglycerols. The expression “for topical use” used in the definition of the composition (El) according to the invention, which is provided in the form of a dispersion of a gelled phase (Al) in a continuous phase (A2) and as defined above, means that said composition (El) is implemented by application to the skin, hair, scalp or lips, whether it is a direct application in the case of a cosmetic composition , dermo-cosmetic, dermo-pharmaceutical or pharmaceutical or of an indirect application, for example in the case of a personal hygiene product in the form of a textile or paper wipe or of sanitary products intended to be in contact with the skin or lips.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “gelled phase (Al)” denotes a homogeneous phase characterized in that the dynamic viscosity of said phase (Al), measured at a temperature of 20 ° C. and using a viscometer Brookfield type LVT at a speed of 6 revolutions / minute, is greater than or equal to 1,000 mPa.s and less than or equal to 100,000 mPa.s, more particularly greater than or equal to 10,000 mPa.s and less than or equal to 100,000 mPa.s.

Depending on the case, the composition according to the invention may exhibit one or more of the following characteristics: the gelled phase (Al) comprises for 100% of its mass from 0.5% to 10% by mass of a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA1), from 90% to 99.5% by mass at least one diol chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 2,3-pentanediol, 2,3-hexanediol, 2,5-hexanediol or 2-methyl 2,4- pentanediol. It should be noted that preferably, the gelled phase (Al) comprises for 100% of its mass from 0.5% to 8.5% by mass, more particularly from 0.5% to 7% by mass of a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA1) and from 91.5% to 99.5% by mass, more particularly from 93% to 99.5% by mass of at least one diol chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3- butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 2,3-pentanediol, 2,3-hexanediol, 2,5-hexanediol or 2-methyl 2,4-pentanediol. said diol is chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or 2-methyl 2,4-pentanediol. the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA1) comprises a proportion greater than or equal to 25 mol% of monomeric units obtained from 2-methy 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid in free acid form or partially or totally salified, the emulsifying surfactant (Si) consists of at least one composition (Ci) of alkylpolyglycosides represented by formula (VII):

Ri-0- (G) xH (VII) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the glucosyl or a, bD-glucopyranosyl radical, obtained from the removal of the hemiacetal hydroxyl group a, bD-glucopyranose, and R 1 represents a radical selected from the elements of the group consisting of the n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl radical, said composition (Ci ) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (VIIi), (VII2), (VII3), (VII4) and (VII5):

Ri-0- (G) i-H (VII 1)

R _I -0- (G) ₂ -H (VII ₂ ) R _I -0- (G) ₃ -H (VII3)

R _I -0- (G) ₄ -H (VII ₄ )

R _I -0- (G) _S -H (Vils), in the respective molar proportions a1, a2, a3, a ₄ and as, such that the sum a1 + a2 + a3 + a ₄ + as is equal to 1 and that the sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5 as is equal to x.

- the emulsifying surfactant (Si) consists of at least one composition (C2) comprising for 100% of its mass:

• from 10% to 50% by mass of at least one composition of alkylpolyglycosides (Ci) represented by formula (VII):

Ri-0- (G) xH (VII), in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the glucosyl or a, bD-glucopyranosyl radical, obtained from the removal of the hydroxyl group hemiacetal of a, bD-glucopyranose, and R 1 represents a radical selected from the group consisting of n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and nbehenyl, said composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (VIIi), (VII2), (VII3), (VII ₄ ) and (VII):

R1-0- (G) 1-H (VIII)

R1-0- (G) 2-H (VII2)

R1-0- (G) 3-H (VII3)

R1-0- (G) 4-H (VII4)

Rl-0- (G) 5-H (VII5) in the respective molar proportions a1, a2, a3, a ₄ and as, such that the sum ai + a2 + a3 + a ₄ + as is equal to 1 and that the sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5 as is equal to x; and from 90% to 50% by mass of at least one fatty alcohol of formula (VIII):

R ”i-OH (VIII), in which R” i represents a radical selected from the members of the group consisting of the radical n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl , and with R ”i identical or different from R 1, the emulsifying surfactant (Si) consists of at least one composition (C'i) of alkylpolyglycosides represented by the formula (IX):

Ri-0- (G) _x -H (IX) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the remainder of xylose, and Ri represents the 2-octyl dodecyl radical, said composition ( C'i) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (ICi), (IX ₂ ), (IX3), (IX4) and (IX5):

Ri-0- (G) i-H (K

R _I -0- (G) ₂ -H (IX2)

RI-0- (G) ₃ -H (IXB)

R _I -0- (G) ₄ -H (IX ₄ )

RI-0- (G) ₅ -H (¾) in the respective molar proportions ai, a ₂ , a ₃ , a ₄ and as, such that the sum ai + a ₂ + a ₃ + a ₄ + as is equal to 1 and that the sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5as is equal to x.

- said emulsifying system (S) consists of a composition (C ' ₂ ) comprising, for 100% of its mass:

• From 10% to 50% by mass of at least one composition of alkylpolyglycosides (C’1) represented by formula (X):

Ri-0- (G) _x -H (X) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the remainder of xylose and Ri represents the 2-octyl dodecyl radical, said composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (Xi), ( X2), (X3), (X4) and (X5):

Ri-0- (G) i-H (Xi)

R _I -0- (G) -H (X ₂ )

R _I -0- (G) ₃ -H (X ₃ )

R _I -0- (G) ₄ -H (X ₄ )

R _I -0- (G) ₅ -H (X ₅ ) in the respective molar proportions ai, a ₂ , a ₃ , a ₄ and as, such that the sum ai + a ₂ + a ₃ + a ₄ + as is equal to 1 and that the sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5 as is equal to x; and

• From 90% to 50% by mass of at least one fatty alcohol of formula (XI):

R '”i-OH (XI), in which R'” i represents the 2-octyl dodecyl radical. the emulsifying surfactant (S ₂ ) consists of at least one polyhydroxystearate of polyglycols represented by the formula (XII):

[Chem 1] in which y2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R ₄ represents the hydrogen atom, the methyl radical or the ethyl radical, Z ₂ represents a radical of formula (XIII):

[Chem 2] in which y'2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, Z'2 represents a radical of formula (XIII) as defined below above, with Z'2 identical or different from Z2, or the hydrogen atom.

- said composition (E1) for topical use comprises one or more auxiliary compounds chosen from foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, solvents and cosolvents, hydrotropic agents, plasticizing agents, emulsifying and co-emulsifying agents, opacifying agents, self-tanning agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorants, whitening agents intended for the discoloration of hair and skin, active ingredients intended to provide a treating and / or protective action with respect to the skin or hair, sun filters, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texturing agents, optical brighteners, insect repellents. In general, the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention can comprise excipients and / or active principles usually used in the field of formulations for topical use, in particular cosmetic, dermo-cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermopharmaceutical. .

- Said composition comprises, for 100% of its mass, a proportion of between 0.5% by mass and 10% by mass of one or more self-tanning agents. Preferably, said self-tanning agent will be chosen from the elements of the group consisting of dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, glyceraldehyde, isatin, alloxan, ninhydrin. mesotartaric aldehyde, and preferably from dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose. Thus, said composition comprising the self-tanner will preferably be used for tanning and / or artificially browning human skin and the subject of the present invention will also be a cosmetic treatment process for artificially tanning and / or browning human skin comprising at least one step application to said human skin of the above composition (El). A subject of the present invention is also the reuse of composition (Ei) as defined above, for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, the hair, the scalp and / or the lips.

Preferably, said composition (El) will be a composition for cleaning, protecting or caring for the skin, the hair, the scalp or the lips.

Preferably, the fatty phase (A2) comprises for 100% of its mass:

- from 1.25% to 25% by mass, more particularly from 1.25% to 20% by mass of an emulsifying system (S) comprising, for 100% by mass of said emulsifying system (S):

• from 12% to 88% by mass, more particularly from 15% to 85% by mass, and even more particularly from 20% by mass to 85% by mass of at least one emulsifying surfactant (SI), and

• from 12% to 88% by mass, more particularly from 15% to 85% by mass, and even more particularly from 20% by mass to 85% by mass of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2);

- from 75% to 98.75% by weight, more particularly from 80% to 98.75% by weight, and even more particularly from 82% to 98.75% by weight of at least one oil and optionally of at least one wax .

The term “oil” denotes a compound and / or a mixture of compounds which are insoluble in water and which are liquid at 25 ° C, and more particularly:

Linear alkanes having from eleven to nineteen carbon atoms;

Branched alkanes, comprising from seven to forty carbon atoms, such as isododecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane or isoeicosane), or mixtures of certain of between them such as those cited below and identified by their INCI name: C7-8 isoparaffin, C -9 isoparaffin, C9-11 isoparaffin, C9-12 isoparaffin, C9-13 isoparaffin, C9-14 isoparaffin, C9-16 isoparaffin, C10-11 isoparaffin, C10-12 isoparaffin, C10-13 isoparaffin, Ci 1-12 isoparaffin, Ci 1-13 isoparaffin, Ci 1-14 isoparaffin, C12-14 isoparaffin, Ci 2-20 isoparaffin, Ci 3-14 isoparaffin, Ci 3-1 ₆ isoparaffin;

Cyclo-alkanes optionally substituted with one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals; White mineral oils, such as those marketed under the following names: Marcol ™ 52, Marcol ™ 82, Drakeol ™ 6VR, Eolane ™ 130, Eolane ™ 150; Hemisqualane (or 2,6,10-trimethyl- dodecane; CAS number: 3891-98-3), squalane (or 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane), hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene hydrogenated;

Mixtures of alkanes comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, said alkanes being linear alkanes, branched alkanes and cyclo-alkanes, and more particularly the mixture (Mi) which comprises, for 100% of its mass, a proportion by mass branched alkanes greater than or equal to 90% and less than or equal to 100%; a proportion by mass of linear alkanes greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 9%, and more particularly less than 5% and a proportion by mass of cycloalkanes greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 1%, by example the mixtures marketed under the names Emogreen ™ L15 or Emogreen ™ L19;

The fatty alcohol ethers of formula (II):

Z1-O-Z2 (P), in which Z _\ and Z2, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from five to eighteen carbon atoms, for example dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3-dimethyl butyl) tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethyl butyl) hexadecyl ether, bis (1,3-dimethyl butyl) ether or dihexyl ether.

Mono-esters of fatty acids and alcohols of formula (III):

R'I- (C = 0) -0-R'2 (III), in which R'i- (C = 0) represents an acyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from eight to twenty-four carbon atoms, and R'2 represents, independently of R'i, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from one to twenty-four carbon atoms, for example methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, laurate propyl, isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate, 2-butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate , hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate, hexyl myristate, octyl myristate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, 2-butyl palmitate, hexyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, propyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, butyl oleate, 2-butyl oleate, hexyl oleate, octyl oleate, methyl stearate, ethyl stearate, propyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-butyl stearate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, methyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate,

Propyl g isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, 2-butyl isostearate, hexyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate;

- The fatty acid and glycerol di-esters of formula (IV) and of formula (V):

R ' ₃ - (C = 0) -0-CH ₂ -CH (0H) -CH ₂ -0- (C = 0) -R'4 (IV)

R ' ₅ - (C = 0) -0-CH ₂ -CH [0- (C = 0) -R' ₆ ] -CH ₂ -0H (V), formulas (IV) (V) in which R ' ₃ - (C = 0), R ' ₄ - (C = 0), R's- (C = 0), RV (C = 0), identical or different, represent an acyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from eight to twenty-four carbon atoms;

- The tri-esters of fatty acids and glycerol of formula (VI):

R ' ₇ - (C = 0) -0-CH ₂ -CH [0- (C = 0) -R ” ₈ ] -CH ₂ -0- (C = 0) -R'' ₉ (VI), in which RV (C = 0), RV (C = 0) and RV (C = 0), identical or different, represent an acyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from eight to twenty-four carbon atoms.

- Vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, l peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bancoulier oil, passionflower, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium, avocado oil, calendula oil, oils obtained from flowers or vegetables;

- Ethoxylated vegetable oils.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from the elements of the group consisting of castor oil, paraffin oils, cocoyl caprylate / caprate, isopropyl myristate, capric caprylic triglyceride.

The fatty phase (A2) optionally comprises wax. The latter is more particularly chosen from beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, waxes paraffins, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids which are solid at room temperature; glycerides which are solid at room temperature.

By crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA1) is meant, in the definition of composition (E1) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention, a nonlinear crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte, in the form of a three-dimensional network insoluble in water. , but swellable with water and resulting in the production of a chemical gel.

Preferably, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA1) comprises, for 100 mol%:

(a1) - a proportion greater than or equal to 25 mol% and less than or equal to 100 mol%, of monomeric units derived from 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid in free acid form or partially or totally salified;

(a2) - optionally, a proportion greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 75 mol%, of monomer units obtained from at least one monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of acrylamide, N, N- dimethyl acrylamide; methacrylamide or N-isopropyl acrylamide;

(a3) - optionally a proportion greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 20 mol%, more particularly greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 15 mol%, even more particularly greater than or equal to 0 mol% and less than or equal at 10 mol% of monomer units derived from at least one monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of (2-hydroxy ethyl) acrylate, (2,3-dihydroxy propyl) acrylate, and (2-hydroxy ethyl), (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) methacrylate, and vinyl pyrrolidone (a4) - optionally a proportion greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 75 mol%, of monomer units obtained from at least one monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-carboxyethyl acrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl 3- [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] butanoic acid, the carboxylic function of said monomers being in free acid form, partially salified or totally salified;

(a5) optionally a proportion greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 5 mol% of at least one monomer of formula (M1):

[Chem 3] in which R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from eight to twenty carbon atoms and n represents an integer greater than or equal to zero and less than or equal to twenty;

(a6) - a proportion greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 1 mol% of monomer units derived from at least one diethylene or polyethylene crosslinking (AR) monomer; the sum of said molar proportions in monomeric units according to a1), a2), a3), a4), a5) and a6) being equal to 100 mol%.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “salified” indicates that the acid function present in a monomer is in an anionic form associated in the form of a salt with a cation, in particular the alkali metal salts, such as the sodium cations or potassium, or such as nitrogenous base cations such as the ammonium salt, the lysine salt or the monoethanolamine salt (HOCH2-CH2-NH4 ⁺ ). They are preferably sodium or ammonium salts.

By at least one diethylene or polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR), in the definition of said anionic crosslinked polyelectrolyte (PA1), one designates in particular a monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of methylene bis (acrylamide), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, diallyoxy acetic acid or one of its salts such as sodium diallyloxy acetate, or a mixture of these compounds; and more particularly a monomer chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate or methylene-bis (acrylamide) or a mixture of these compounds.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the composition (Ei) for topical use is characterized in that the said crosslinking monomer (AR) as defined above is used in a molar proportion of less than or equal to 0.5 %, more particularly less than or equal to 0.25% and very particularly less than or equal to 0.1%; it is more particularly greater than or equal to 0.005 mol%.

The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA1) used in the composition (Ei) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention can also comprise various additives, such as complexing agents, transfer agents or chain limiting agents.

The crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA1) used in the composition (Ei) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention can be prepared by the implementation of a radical polymerization process known to those skilled in the art, such as for example the processes of solution polymerization, of suspension polymerization, of reverse suspension polymerization, of emulsion polymerization, of reverse emulsion polymerization, of polymerization in a solvent medium followed by a step of precipitation of the polymer formed.

According to a more particular aspect, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA1) used in the composition (Ei) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention can be prepared by carrying out a polymerization process in a solvent medium followed by a step of precipitation of the polymer formed, or of reverse emulsion polymerization optionally followed by a step of concentration and / or atomization.

According to a more particular aspect, the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA1) used in the composition (Ei) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention can be prepared according to one of the methods described above and involve the use of agents of transfer or chain limiters. The transfer agents or chain limiters are more particularly chosen from the group consisting of sodium hypophosphite, low molecular weight alcohols, for example methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, isopropanol, butanol, thiols, for example 2-mercaptoethanol, transfer agents comprising a sulfate function, for example sodium methallylsulfonate, or mixtures of said transfer agents. Transfer agents or chain limiters are more particularly used in molar proportions, expressed relative to the total number of moles of monomers used, from 0.001% to 1 mol%, more particularly from 0.001% to 0.5 mol%, and very particularly from 0.001% to 0.1% molar.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, said anionic crosslinked polyelectrolyte (PA1) is an element of the group consisting of a homopolymer of 2-methyl 2- [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide); a copolymer of 2-methyl 2- [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt and acrylic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylene bis (acrylamide); a copolymer of 2-methyl 2- [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (g) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt and acrylic acid ( d) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt in a molar ratio (g) / (d) greater than or equal to 30/70 and less than or equal to 90/10, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylene bis (acrylamide); a copolymer of 2-methyl 2- [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (g) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt, and acrylic acid (ô) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt in a molar ratio (y) / () greater than or equal to 40/60 and less than or equal to 90/10, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylene bis (acrylamide); a copolymer of 2-methyl 2- [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (g) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt, and acrylamide (e) in a ratio molar (g) / (e) greater than or equal to 30/70 and less than or equal to 90/10, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide); a copolymer of 2-methyl 2- [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (g) partially or completely salified in the form of sodium salt, and hydroxyethylacrylate (z) in a ratio molar (g) / (z) greater than or equal to 30/70 and less than or equal to 90/10, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide); a terpolymer crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis (acrylamide), 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or of ammonium salt, acrylamide and acrylic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt; a terpolymer crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide), 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1- acid partially or fully salified propanesulfonic acid in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 30% and less than or equal to 45%, acrylamide in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 45% and less than or equal to 68% and acrylic acid partially or completely salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 10%, a terpolymer crosslinked by triallylamine and / or methylene bis (acrylamide), 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1 -propanesulfonic acid partially or fully salified in the form of sodium salt or salt of 'ammonium in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 30% and less than or equal to 45%, acrylamide in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 47% and less than or equal to 68% and acrylic acid partially or totally salified as sodium salt or salt of ammonium in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 8%; a terpolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropanetriacrylate and / or triallylamine and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide), 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified under form of sodium salt or ammonium salt in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 60% and less than or equal to 80%, N, N dimethylacrylamide in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 15% and less than or equal to 39 , 5% and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 5%; a tetrapolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropanetriacrylate and / or triallylamine and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide), 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1 -propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified under form of sodium salt or ammonium salt in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 60% and less than or equal to 80%, N, N dimethylacrylamide in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 15% and less than or equal to 39 %, lauroyl methacrylate in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 2.5%, and stearoyl methacrylate in a molar proportion greater than or equal to 0.5% and less than or equal to 2.5%.

Regarding the emulsifying surfactant, in formula (VII) as defined above, the RI -O- group is bonded to G via the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetal function.

According to one particular aspect, in the definition of formula (VII) x, or average degree of polymerization, represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.

According to another particular aspect, the combination of at least one emulsifying surfactant (SI) and of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2) comprises, for 100% of its mass: From 12% to 88% by mass of at least one emulsifying surfactant (Si) which consists of at least one composition (C2) comprising, for 100% of its mass:

* From 10% to 50% by mass of at least one composition of alkylpolyglycosides (Ci) represented by formula (VII):

Ri-0- (G) _x -H (VII) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the glucosyl or a, bD-glucopyranosyl radical, obtained from the deletion of the group hydroxyl hemiacetal of a, bD-glucopyranose, and R 1 represents a radical selected from the members of the group consisting of the radical n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl, said composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (VIIi), (VII2), (VII3), (VII4) and (VII5):

R _I -0- (G) _I -H (VU 1)

R _I -0- (G) ₂ -H (VII2)

R _I -0- (G) ₃ -H (VII3)

R _I -0- (G) ₄ -H (VII4)

R _I -0- (G) ₅ -H (Vils) in the respective molar proportions a1, a2, a3, a4 and as, such as:

- The sum ai + a2 + a3 + a4 + as is equal to 1 and that

- The sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5 as is equal to x; and

* From 90% to 50% by mass of at least one fatty alcohol of formula (IX): R ”i-OH (IX), in which R” i represents a radical selected from the elements of the group consisting of the radical n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl , and with R ”i identical or different from R 1 - From 12% to 88% by mass of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2) which consists of at least one polyhydroxystearate of polyglycols represented by formula (XII):

[Chem 4] in which y2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R represents the hydrogen atom, the methyl radical or the ethyl radical, Z2 represents a radical of formula (XIII):

[Chem 5]

(XIII), in which y'2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, Z'2 represents a radical of formula (XIII) as defined above, with Z2 ′ identical or different from Z2, or the hydrogen atom.

Concerning the emulsifying surfactant, in formula (VIII) as defined above, the RI -O- group is linked to G via the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetal function.

According to one particular aspect, in the definition of formula (VIII) x, or average degree of polymerization, represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.

According to another particular aspect, the combination of at least one emulsifying surfactant (SI) and of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S2) comprises, for 100% of its mass: - From 12% to 88% by mass of at least an emulsifying surfactant (Si) which consists of at least one composition (C ' ₂ ) comprising, for 100% of its mass:

• From 10% to 50% by mass of at least one composition of alkylpolyglycosides (C'1) represented by formula (X): Ri-0- (G) _x -H (X) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the remainder of xylose and Ri represents the 2-octyl dodecyl radical, said composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulas (Xi), (X2), (X3), (X4) and (X5): Ri-0- (G) iH (Xi)

R _I -0- (G) -H (X ₂ )

R _I -0- (G) ₃ -H (X ₃ )

R _I -0- (G) ₄ -H (X ₄ )

R _I -0- (G) ₅ -H (X ₅ ) in the respective molar proportions ai, a ₂ , a ₃ , a ₄ and as, such that: The sum ai + a ₂ + a ₃ + a ₄ + as is equal to 1 and that the sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5 as is equal to x; and

^■ From 90% to 50% by mass of at least one fatty alcohol of formula (XI): R '”i-OH (XI), in which R'” i represents the 2-octyl dodecyl radical.

From 12% to 88% by mass of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S ₂ ) which consists of at least one polyhydroxystearate of polyglycols represented by formula (XII):

[Chem 6] in which y2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R4 represents the hydrogen atom, the methyl radical or the ethyl radical, Z2 represents a radical of formula (XIII):

[Chem 7]

(CPI), in which y'2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, Z'2 represents a radical of formula (XIII) as defined above, with Z2 ′ identical or different from Z2, or the hydrogen atom.

According to another particular aspect, the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention has a dynamic viscosity measured at a temperature of 20 ° C. and using a Brookfield viscometer of the LVT type at a speed of 6 revolutions / minute, is greater than or equal to 500 mPa.s and less than or equal to 40,000 mPa.s.

Regarding the auxiliary compounds, among the foaming anionic surfactants and / or detergents which can be combined with the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, there may be mentioned alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts. , ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts of alkyl ether sulphates, of alkyl sulphates, of alkylamidoether sulphates, of alkylarylpoly ether sulphates, of monoglyceride sulphates, of alpha-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfo-acetates, alkyl sarcosinates, acylisethionates, N-acyl taurates, acyl lactylates, N-acyl derivatives of amino acids, N-acyl derivatives of peptides, N-acyl derivatives of proteins , fatty acids. Among the amphoteric foaming and / or detergent surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.

Among the foaming cationic surfactants and / or detergents optionally present in the composition (El) for topical use according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular quaternary ammonium derivatives.

Among the foaming nonionic surfactants and / or detergents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly the alkylpolyglycosides comprising an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising 8 with 12 carbon atoms; castor oil derivatives, polysorbates, coconut amides, N-alkylamines.

As examples of thickening and / or gelling surfactants optionally present in the composition (El) for topical use according to the invention, there may be mentioned:

- optionally alkoxylated alkylpolyglycoside fatty esters, and more particularly ethoxylated methylpolyglucoside esters such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed respectively under the names GLUCAMATE ™ LT and GLUMATE ™ DOE120;

- alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 150 pentaerythrytyl tetrastearate marketed under the name CROTHIX ™ DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate marketed under the name ANTIL ™ 141;

- fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG 14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS ™ T211, PPG 14 palmeth 60 hexyl dicarbamate marketed under the name ELFACOS ™ GT2125.

As examples of emulsifying surfactants optionally present in the composition (El) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.

As examples of emulsifying nonionic surfactants optionally present in composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, ethoxylated castor oil and ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil, for example the product sold under the name SIMULSOL ™ 989; compositions comprising glycerol and acid stearate poly (ethoxylated) stearic acid with between 5 moles and 150 moles of ethylene oxide, for example the composition comprising stearic acid (ethoxylated) with 135 moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate marketed under the name SIMULSOL ™ 165; ethoxylated sorbitan esters, for example the products sold under the name MONTANOX ™; ethoxylated mannitan esters; sucrose esters; methylglucoside esters.

As examples of anionic emulsifying surfactants optionally present in the composition (El) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of decylphosphate, cetylphosphate marketed under the name AMPHISOL ™, glyceryl stearate citrate; cetearyl sulphate; the arachidyl / behenyl phosphates and arachidyl / behenyl alcohols composition sold under the name SENSANOV ™ WR; soaps, for example sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, N-acylated derivatives of salified amino acids such as, for example, stearoyl glutamate.

As examples of cationic emulsifying surfactants optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of aminoxides, quatemium-82, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, cetyl pyridinium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, and the surfactants described in document WO96 / 00719 and mainly those whose fatty chain comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.

As examples of opacifying and / or pearlescent agents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxy stearate, magnesium palmitate. , magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, fatty alcohols comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

As examples of texturing agents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, there may be mentioned N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, for example lauroyl lysine sold under the name AMINOHOPE ™ LL, octenyl starch succinate marketed under the name DRYFLO ™, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica.

As examples of solvents and co-solvents optionally present in the composition (El) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of water, organic solvents by example glycerol, diglycerol, oligomers of glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, mixtures of water and said organic solvents, propylene carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO).

As examples of agents for improving skin penetration optionally present in composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of glycolsethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monopropyl ether, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, ethylene glycol monobenzyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether (or Transcutol-P), fatty acids such as oleic acid, fatty acid glycerol esters such as for example glycerol behenate, glycerol palmitostearate, behenoyl macroglycerides, polyoxyethylene-2-stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene-2-oleyl ethers, terpenes such as for example D-Limonene, essential oils such as for example eucalyptus essential oil.

As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of polysaccharides consisting only of oses, such as glucans or glucose homopolymers, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans. , galactomannans in which the degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the main chain of D-mannose is between 0 and 1, and more particularly between 1 and 0.25, such as galactomannans originating from the gum of cassia (DS = 1/5), locust bean gum (DS = 1/4), tara gum (DS = 1/3), guar gum (DS = 1/2), fenugreek gum (DS = 1).

As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents optionally present in composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of polysaccharides consisting of ose derivatives, such as sulphated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly algins, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of oses and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, exudates of gum arabic and karaya gum, glucosaminoglycans. As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, there may be mentioned cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic derivatives of starch, polyurethanes.

As examples of stabilizers optionally present in composition (E1) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly ozokerite, inorganic salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride. .

As examples of thermal or mineral waters which can be combined with the composition (El) for topical use according to the invention, mention may be made of thermal or mineral waters having a mineralization of at least 300 mg / I, in particular water from Avene, water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from Roche Posay, water from Bourboule, water from Enghien-les -bains, water from Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, water from Néris-les-Bains, water from Allevard-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons le Saunier, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Fumades and water from Tercis-les-Bains.

As examples of active agents which can be combined with the composition (El) for topical use according to the invention, there may be mentioned substances or compositions which provide a beneficial effect on the human or animal subject.

As examples of deodorant agents optionally present in the composition (E1) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention, there may be mentioned alkali metal silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulphate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts, for instance cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2-decanediol; 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metal zeolites; Triclosan ™; aluminum hydrobromide, aluminum hydrochlorides, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, aluminum and zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum and zirconium tetrachlorhydrate , aluminum zirconium pentachlorhydrate, aluminum zirconium octohydrochloride, aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum lactate, aluminum hydrochloride and glycol complexes, such as aluminum hydrochloride and propylene glycol, the complex of aluminum dihydrochloride and propylene glycol, the complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and propylene glycol, the complex of aluminum hydrochloride and polyethylene glycol, the complex of aluminum dihydrochloride and polyethylene glycol, the complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol .

As examples of antioxidants optionally present in the composition for topical use (E1) which is the subject of the present invention, mention may be made of EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisol), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINE GL 47S (INCI name: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate).

Among the active principles which can comprise the composition (E1) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention, there may be mentioned: vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (like ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (like tocopherol acetate) , vitamins B3 or B 10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds showing a soothing action, in particular SEPICALM ™ S, allantoin and bisabolol; anti-inflammatory agents; compounds showing a moisturizing action, such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, glycerol, diglycerol, xylitylpolyglucoside sold under the trademark Aquaxyl ™; plant extracts rich in polyphenols such as grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts; compounds showing a slimming or lipolytic action, such as caffeine or its derivatives, ADIPOSLIM ™, ADIPOLESS ™, fucoxanthin; N-acylated proteins; N-acylated peptides such as MATRIXIL ™; N-acylated amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; total protein hydrolysates; soybean extracts, for example Raffermine ™; wheat extracts, for example TENSINE ™ or GLIADINE ™; plant extracts, such as plant extracts rich in tannins, plant extracts rich in isoflavones or plant extracts rich in terpenes; extracts of freshwater or marine algae; extracts of marine plants; marine extracts in general such as corals; essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds showing antimicrobial or purifying action, such as LIP ACIDE ™ C8G, LIP ACIDE ™ UG, SEPICONTROL ™ A5; OCTOPIROX ™ or SENSIVA ™ SC50; compounds showing an energizing or stimulating property, such as PHYSIOGENYL ™, panthenol and its derivatives, such as SEPICAP ™ MP; anti-aging active ingredients such as SEPILIFT ™ DPHP, LIP ACIDE ™ PVB, SEPIVINOL ™, SEPIVITAL ™, MANOLIVA ™, PHYTO-AGE ™, TIMECODE ™; SURVICODE ™; anti-photo aging active ingredients; active agents protecting the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction; active agents increasing the synthesis of components of the extracellular matrix such as collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans; active agents which act favorably on chemical cell communication such as cytokines or physical ones such as integrins; active ingredients creating a sensation of “heating” on the skin, such as skin microcirculation activators (such as nicotinic acid derivatives) or products creating a sensation of “freshness” on the skin (such as menthol and derivatives) ; active agents which improve skin microcirculation, for example venotonics; draining active ingredients; active agents with a decongestant aim, such as extracts of ginko biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, rascal, centalla asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow; agents for tanning or browning the skin, such as for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxan, ninhydrin, plant extracts such as for example extracts of red woods of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia such as Pteropcarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida such as those described in European patent application EP 0 971 683; agents known for their action of facilitating and / or accelerating tanning and / or browning of human skin, and / or for their action of coloring human skin, such as, for example, caratenoids (and more particularly beta carotene and gamma carotene), the product marketed under the brand name “Carrot oil” (INCI name: Daucus Carota, helianthus annuus Sunflower oil) by the company Provital, which contains caratenoids, vitamin E and vitamin K ; tyrosine and / or its derivatives, known for their effect on the acceleration of tanning of human skin in association with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, such as for example the product marketed under the brand name “SunTan Accelerator ™” by the company Provital which contains tyrosine and riboflavins (vitamin B), the tyrosine and tyrosinase complex marketed under the brand name “Zymo Tan Complex” by the company Zymo Line, the product marketed under the brand name MelanoBronze ™ (last name INCI: Acetyl Tyrosine, Monk's pepper extract (Vitex Agnus-castus)) by the company Mibelle which contains Tacetyl tyrosine, product marketed under the brand name Unipertan VEG-24/242/2002 (INCI name: butylene glycol and Acetyl Tyrosine and hydrolyzed vegetable protein and Adenosine triphosphate) by the company UNIPEX, the product marketed under the brand name “Try-Excell ™” (INCI name: Oleoyl Tyrosine and Luffa Cylindrica (Seed)

Oil and Oleic acid) by the company Sederma which contains extracts of pumpkin seeds (or Loofah oil), the product marketed under the brand name “Actibronze ™” (INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) by the company Alban Muller, the product marketed under the brand name Tyrostan ™ (INCI name: potassium caproyl tyrosine) by the company Synerga, the product marketed under the brand name Tyrosinol (INCI name: Sorbitan Isostearate, glyceryl oleate, caproyl Tyrosine ) by the company Synerga, the product marketed under the brand name InstaBronze ™ (INCI name: Dihydroxyacetone and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) marketed by the company Alban Muller, the product marketed under the brand name Tyrosilane (INCI name: methylsilanol and acetyl tyrosine) by the company Exymol; peptides known for their effect of activating melanogenesis, such as for example the product sold under the brand name Bronzing SF Peptide powder (INCI name: Dextran and Octapeptide-5) by the company Inimitée Activos, the product marketed under the name of Melitane brand (INCI name: Glycerin and Aqua and Dextran and Acetyl hexapeptide-1) comprising acetyl hexapeptide-1 known for its alpha-MSH agonist action, the product marketed under the brand name Melatimes Solutions ™ (INCI name : Butylene glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-40) by the company LIPOTEC, sugars and sugar derivatives such as for example the product marketed under the brand name Tanositol ™ (INCI name: inositol) by the company Provital, the product marketed under the brand name Thalitan ™ (or Phycosaccharide ™ AG) by the company CODIF international (INCI name: Aqua and hydrolyzed algin (Laminaria Digitata) and magnesium sulfate and manganese sulfate) containing an oligosaccharide of ma rine (guluronic acid and mannuronic acid chelated with magnesium and manganese ions), the product marketed under the brand name Melactiva ™ (INCI name: Maltodextrin, Mucuna Pruriens Seed extract) by the company Alban Muller, compounds rich in flavonoids such as example the product marketed under the brand name “Biotanning” (INCI name: Hydrolyzed citrus Aurantium dulcis fruit extract) by the company Silab and known to be rich in lemon flavonoids (of hesperidin type). As examples of sunscreens optionally present in the composition (Ei) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention, there may be mentioned all those appearing in cosmetic directive 76/768 / EEC as amended, annex VII.

Among the organic sun filters optionally present in the composition (Ei) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention, there may be mentioned:

Benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), in particular monoglycerol esters of PABA, ethyl esters of N, N-propoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N, N-diethoxy PABA, ethyl esters N, N-dimethyl PABA, methyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA;

Anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate;

Salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanolphenyl salicylate;

Cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (p-methoxy 2-ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy 2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, p-methoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, ethyl-a-cyano cinnamate -P-phenyl, 2-ethylhcxyl-a-cyano-P-phenylc cinnamate, glyceryl mono-2-ethylhexanoyl diparamethoxy cinnamate;

Benzophenone derivatives such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4- n-octyloxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -d, 1-camphor, 3- (benzylidene) -d, 1-camphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate; the family of sulfonic acid derivatives such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 sulfonic acid and its salts; Triazine derivatives such as hydroxyphenyl triazine, (ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl) (4-methoxy phenyl) triazine, 2,4,6-trianillino (p- carbo-2'-ethylhexyl- -oxy) -l, 3,5-triazine, the benzoate of 4,4 - ((6 - (((l, l-dimethylethyl) amino) carbonyl) phenyl) amino) -l, 3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino) bis- (2-ethylhexyl), 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy -5'-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methyphenyl) benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4 "-t-butylbenzoylmethane; 5- (3,3-dimethyl-2-norbomylidene) -3-pentan-2-one;

Diphenylacrylate derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, methyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate;

Polysiloxanes such as benzylidene siloxane malonate.

Among the inorganic solar filters, also called "mineral screens", optionally present in the composition (Ei) for topical use which is the subject of the present invention, there may be mentioned titanium oxides, zinc oxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red or black iron oxides, chromium oxides. These mineral screens may or may not be micronized, may or may not have undergone surface treatments and may optionally be presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.

The composition according to the invention and as defined above, is obtained by implementing the preparation process comprising the following steps:

A step a) of preparing the fatty phase (A2) by mixing all the elements constituting it in the desired proportions. This mixing step is generally carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 20 ° C and less than or equal to 80 ° C, more particularly greater than or equal to 25 ° C and less than or equal to 80 ° C, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than or equal to 80 ° C; it is carried out with mechanical stirring at a moderate speed greater than or equal to 50 revolutions / minute and less than or equal to 100 revolutions / minute;

A step b) of preparation of the aqueous phase (Ai) of all the elements constituting it in the desired proportions. This mixing step is generally carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 20 ° C and less than or equal to 80 ° C, more particularly greater than or equal to 20 ° C and less than or equal to 60 ° C, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 20 ° C and less than or equal to 40 ° C; it is carried out with mechanical stirring at a moderate speed greater than or equal to 500 revolutions / minute and less than or equal to 3,000 revolutions / minute. In particular, the aqueous phase (Ai) obtained at the end of step b), exhibits a dynamic viscosity, measured at 20 ° C. by means of a Brookfield LV type viscometer at a speed of 6 revolutions / minute, greater than or equal to 200 mPa.s and less than or equal to 40,000 mPa.s, more particularly greater than or equal to 1,000 mPa.s and less than or equal to 40,000 mPa.s, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 2,000 mPa.s and less than or equal at 40,000 mPa.s;

A step c) during which the fatty phase (A2) is added to the aqueous phase (Ai) at a temperature greater than or equal to 20 ° C and less than or equal to 80 ° C, more particularly greater than or equal to 20 ° C and less than or equal to 60 ° C, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 20 ° C and less than or equal to 40 ° C, with mechanical stirring at a moderate speed greater than or equal to 50 revolutions / minute and less than or equal to 400 revolutions / minute, so as to obtain the composition according to the invention.

The following examples illustrate the invention, without however limiting it.

Preparation and evaluation of emulsions according to the invention and comparative emulsions.

1) Preparation of emulsions according to the invention and comparative emulsions

Three emulsions are prepared according to the invention, denoted (Fi) to (F3), and four comparative emulsions, denoted (F'i) to (F'4), the mass proportions of their constituents are given in Table 1 below. -below; the mass contents of the polyelectrolytes being indicated as a percentage of polymeric dry matter, by implementing the method below.

The constituents of the fatty phase are introduced successively into a beaker, mixed and brought to a temperature of 20 ° C after a heating step of 80 ° C; the mixing is carried out using a mechanical stirrer fitted with a propeller-type stirring wheel, at a speed of 100 revolutions / minute.

The constituents of the dispersed phase are mixed at room temperature in a beaker using a mechanical stirrer at a speed of 2000 revolutions / minute and the thickening agent is then added gradually. Stirring is maintained for a period of time making it possible to achieve a phase in the form of a homogeneous gel. The fatty phase is added all at once to the gel, at room temperature and at a moderate stirring speed (75 to 300 revolutions / minute) with a stirrer equipped with an anchor-type mobile. This stirring is then maintained for ten minutes and no cooling step is necessary.

[Table 1] (1): Lanol ™ 2681, or Coco-Caprylate / Caprate.

(2): Sepineo ™ SE 68 is a mixture comprising, for 100% of its mass, from 78% to 85% by mass of a mixture of n-hexadecanol and of n-octadecanol, and from 15% to 22% by mass of a mixture of n-hexadecylglucoside with an average degree of polymerization of 1.20 and n-octadecylglucoside of an average degree of polymerization of 1.20, used as an emulsifying agent. (3): Sepicide ™ HB is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, n-propylparaben, used as a preservative.

(4): Simaline ™ WO, or PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, is an emulsifying surfactant.

(5): Sepineo ™ P600 is a self-reversing reverse latex comprising for 100% of its mass between 30% and 40% by mass of a crosslinked copolymer of sodium acrylamide and acryloyldimethyl taurate, used as a thickening agent .

(6): Montane ™ 80 is a composition comprising sorbitan mono-oleate, used as an emulsifying agent of the water-in-oil type.

(7): PEG-400 is a polyethylene glycol with a molecular weight of approximately 400 g.mol ¹ .

(8): Montanov ™ 202 is a mixture comprising, for 100% of its mass, from 80% to 90% by mass of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and from 10% to 20% by mass of arachidyl polyglucosides with an average degree of polymerization of 1.20, used as an emulsifying agent.

(9) Fluidanov ™ 20X is a mixture comprising, for 100% of its mass, from 70% to 90% by mass of 2-octyl-1-dodecanol and from 10% to 30% by mass of 2-octyl-1-dodecanyl polyxyloside.

(*) minimum mass proportion of water which could be added in the respective comparative emulsions (F'2), (F'3), (F'4) without obtaining either a gelation preventing the agitation of said emulsion, or obtain an emulsion exhibiting a heterogeneous appearance that persists despite the stirring phases of the preparation process, ie a form in which the dispersed phase is the fatty phase.

2 Demonstration of the properties of emulsions (Fi) to (F3) according to the invention and of comparative emulsions (F’i) to (F’4).

2.1 Characterization of the appearance and viscosity of emulsions (Fi) to (F3) according to the invention and of comparative emulsions (F’i) to (F’4).

The emulsions (Fi) to (F3), and (F'i) to (F'4) obtained according to the method described above, are then stored in an isolated climatic chamber and regulated at a temperature of 25 ° C. for 3 months. At the end of this three-month period, the appearance (ASP) of each emulsion prepared is observed and the dynamic viscosity (m) of each emulsion is measured (in mPas), using a viscometer at 25 ° C. (Brookfield FVT, speed 6).

An aliquot of the same emulsions (Fi) to (F ₃ ), and (F'i) to (F ' ₄ ) obtained according to the method described above, are also stored in an isolated climatic chamber and regulated at a temperature of 45 ° C. During three months. At the end of this three-month period, the appearance (ASP) of each emulsion prepared is observed and the dynamic viscosity (m) of each emulsion is measured (in mPas), using a viscometer at 25 ° C. (Brookfield FVT, speed 6).

2.2 Characterization of the meaning of the emulsions (Fi) to (F ₃ ) according to the invention and of the comparative emulsions (F'i) to (F'3).

The conductivity (s) of the emulsions (Fi) to (F3) according to the invention and of the emulsions (F'i) to (F'3) is measured at 25 ° C, after a storage period of said emulsions of one day. in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 25 ° C., by means of an LF 196 ™ brand conductimeter from the company WTW fitted with a Tetracon ™ 96 electrode.

For a given emulsion, (s) <0.5 pS.cm ¹ , it is considered that the emulsion is not conductive and that therefore the external phase is not the phase based on 1,2 propanediol or glycerin or PEG-400, but the oily phase.

Indeed, the conductivity, measured at 25 ° C, of 1,2 propanediol is equal to 4400 pS.cm ¹ , that of glycerin is 6400 pS.cm ¹ .

For a given emulsion, (s)> 0.5 pS.cm ¹ , it is considered that the emulsion is conductive and that consequently the external phase is not the oily phase but the glycolic phase. By glycolic phase is meant the phase based on 1,2 propanediol or glycerin or PEG-400.

This same measurement of the conductivity of the emulsions (Fi) to (F ₃ ) according to the invention and of the comparative emulsions (F'i) to (F ' ₃ ) is measured at 25 ° C after three months at 25 ° C, and after three months at 45 ° C.

2.3 Results obtained for the emulsions (Fi) to (F ₃ ) according to the invention and for the comparative emulsions (F'i) to (F ' ₃ ). The evaluation methods described in paragraphs 2.1 and 2.2 were applied to the emulsions (Fi) to (F3) according to the invention and to the comparative emulsions (F'i) to (F'3). The results obtained are shown in Table 2 below.

[Table 2] 2.4 Analysis of results

The emulsions (Fi) to (F3) according to the invention are therefore characterized by:

a stability of their form, of the phase type based on 1,2-propanediol dispersed in oil, after storage for 3 months at a temperature of 25 ° C .; the appearance observed after this storage period is still homogeneous; a stability of their form, of the phase type based on 1,2-propanediol dispersed in oil, after storage for 3 months at a temperature of 45 ° C .; the appearance observed after this storage period is still homogeneous;

The comparative emulsion (F’i) comprising sorbitan mono-oleate as water-in-oil type lipophilic surfactant does not make it possible to obtain an emulsion in which the dispersed phase is the phase based on 1,2-propanediol.

The comparative emulsions (F'2), (F'3) and (F'4), also comprising sorbitan mono-oleate as water-in-oil type lipophilic surfactant, make it possible to obtain an emulsion whose dispersed phase is the 1,2-propanediol phase but a minimum amount of water is required.

Unexpectedly, the use of the surfactant of the water-in-oil emulsifier type, sorbitan mono-oleate, does not make it possible to obtain an emulsion in which the dispersed phase is the phase based on 1,2-propanediol without l. 'addition of water (F'2 versus F' 1); the same is true with the use of other polyols commonly used to prepare formulations for topical application (F’3 and F’4).

Claims

1. Composition (El) for topical use comprising a gelled phase (Al) free of added water and dispersed in a continuous phase (A2), with: the gelled phase (Al) comprising at least one diol chosen from 1,2 -propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 2,3-pentanediol , 2,3-hexanediol, 2,5-hexanediol or 2-methyl 2,4-pentanediol, and a fatty phase (A2) comprising at least one oil, at least one emulsifying surfactant (SI) and at least an emulsifying surfactant (S2).

2. Composition (El) according to claim 1, characterized in that said composition (El) comprises, for 100% of its mass:

- from 60 to 98% by mass of the gelled phase (Al), and

- from 2% to 40% by mass of the fatty phase (A2).

3. Composition (El) according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the emulsifying surfactant (SI) is selected from the elements of the group consisting of compositions of alkylpolyglycosides, compositions of alkylpolyglycosides and alcohols. fatty, and the emulsifying surfactant (S2) is selected from the elements of the group consisting of esters of polyglycerols, esters of alkoxylated polyglycerols, polyhydroxystearates of polyglycols, polyhydroxystearates of polyglycerols, polyhydroxystearates of alkoxylated polyglycerols.

4. Composition (El) for topical use according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the gelled phase (Al) comprises, for 100% of its mass:

- from 0.5% to 10% by mass of a crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA1),

- from 90% to 99.5% by mass at least one diol chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 2,3-pentanediol, 2,3-hexanediol, 2,5-hexanediol or 2-methyl 2,4-pentanediol

5. Composition (El) for topical use according to claim 4, characterized in that said diol is chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol , 1,2-hexanediol or 2-methyl 2,4-pentanediol.

6. Composition (El) for topical use according to claim 4, characterized in that the crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte (PA1) comprises a proportion greater than or equal to 25 mol% of monomer units derived from 2-methy 2- [acid. (1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid form in free or partially or totally salified form.

7. Composition (El) for topical use according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the emulsifying surfactant (Si) consists of at least one composition (Ci) of alkylpolyglycosides represented by formula (VII) :

Ri-0- (G) xH (VII) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the glucosyl or a, bD-glucopyranosyl radical, obtained from the removal of the hemiacetal hydroxyl group a, bD-glucopyranose, and R 1 represents a radical selected from the elements of the group consisting of the n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl radical, said composition (Ci ) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (VIE), (VIE), (VIE), (VIE) and (VIE):

Ri-0- (G) i-H (VII i)

R _I -0- (G) ₂ -H (VII ₂ )

R _I -0- (G) ₃ -H (VII ₃ )

R _I -0- (G) ₄ -H (VIE)

R _I -0- (G) ₅ -H (VIE), in the respective molar proportions a1, a ₂ , a ₃ , a ₄ and as, such as:

The sum ai + a ₂ + a ₃ + a ₄ + as is equal to 1 and that The sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5as is equal to x.

8. Composition (El) for topical use according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the emulsifying surfactant (Si) consists of at least one composition (C2) comprising for 100% of its mass:

- From 10% to 50% by mass of at least one composition of alkylpolyglycosides (Ci) represented by formula (VII):

Ri-0- (G) xH (VU), in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the glucosyl or a, bD-glucopyranosyl radical, obtained from the removal of the hydroxyl group hemiacetal of a, bD-glucopyranose, and R 1 represents a radical selected from the group consisting of n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and nbehenyl, said composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (VIIi), (VIE), (VIE), (VIE) and (VIE):

R1-0- (G) 1-H (VIII)

R1-0- (G) 2-H (VII2)

R1-0- (G) 3-H (VII3)

R1-0- (G) 4-H (VII4)

Rl-0- (G) 5-H (VII5) in the respective molar proportions a1, a2, a3, a4 and as, such as:

• The sum ai + a2 + a3 + a4 + as is equal to 1 and that

• The sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5 as is equal to x; and

- From 90% to 50% by mass of at least one fatty alcohol of formula (VIII):

R ”i-OH (VIII), in which R ”i represents a radical chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the radical n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl and n-behenyl, and with R” i identical or different by Ri.

9. Composition (El) for topical use as defined in any one or any of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the emulsifying surfactant (Si) consists of at least one composition (C'i) of alkylpolyglycosides represented by formula (IX): Ri-0- (G) _x -H (IX) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the remainder of the xylose, and Ri represents the radical 2-octyl dodecyl, said composition (C'i) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (ICi), (IX2), (IX ₃ ), (IX4) and (IX5):

Ri-0- (G) i-H (IXi)

R _I -0- (G) ₂ -H (IX2)

R _I -0- (G) ₃ -H (IX3)

R _I -0- (G) ₄ -H (IX4)

R _I -0- (G) ₅ -H (IX5) in the respective molar proportions a1, a2, a ₃ , a ₄ and as, such as:

The sum ai + a2 + a ₃ + a ₄ + as is equal to 1 and that

The sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5as is equal to x.

10. Composition (E1) for topical use as defined in any one or any of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that said emulsifying system (Si) consists of a composition (C'2) comprising 100% of its mass :

- From 10% to 50% by mass of at least one alkylpolyglycoside composition (C’1) represented by formula (X):

Ri-0- (G) _x -H (X) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents the remainder of xylose and Ri represents the 2-octyl dodecyl radical, said composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (Xi), (X ₂ ), (X ₃ ), (X ₄ ) and (X ₅ ): Ri-0- (G) iH (Xi)

R _I -0- (G) ₂ -H (X ₂ )

RI-0- (G) ₃ -H (X ₃ )

R _I -0- (G) ₄ -H (X ₄ ) Ri-0- (G) sH (X ₅ ) in the respective molar proportions a1, a ₂ , a ₃ , a ₄ and as, such as:

• The sum ai + a ₂ + a ₃ + a ₄ + as is equal to 1 and that

• The sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a ₄ + 5 as is equal to x; and

- From 90% to 50% by mass of at least one fatty alcohol of formula (XI): R ’” i-OH (XI), in which R ’” i represents the 2-octyl dodecyl radical.

IL Composition (El) for topical use according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the emulsifying surfactant (S ₂ ) consists of at least one polyglycol polyhydroxystearate represented by formula (XII): in which y2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R ₄ represents the hydrogen atom, the methyl radical or the ethyl radical, Z ₂ represents a radical of formula (XIII): in which y ' ₂ represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, Z' ₂ represents a radical of formula (XIII) as defined above, with Z'2 identical or different from Z2, or the hydrogen atom.

12. Composition (EI) for topical use according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises one or more auxiliary compounds chosen from foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and cosolvents, hydrotropic agents, plasticizing agents, emulsifying and co-emulsifying agents, opacifying agents, self-tanning agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorants, whitening agents intended for the discoloration of hair and skin, the principles active ingredients intended to provide a treatment and / or protective action with respect to the skin or hair, sun filters, mineral fillers or pigs ments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texturing agents, optical brighteners, insect repellents.

13. Composition (Ei) for topical use according to claim 12, characterized in that it comprises, for 100% of its mass, a proportion of between 0.5% by mass and 10% by mass of one or more self-agents. tanning.

14. Use of composition (Ei) as defined in one of claims 1 to 13, for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, hair, scalp and / or lips.

15. Composition (El) according to one of claims 1 to 13, for cleaning, protecting or caring for the skin, hair, scalp or lips. 16. Composition (Ei) according to claim 13, for artificially tanning and / or browning human skin.

17. Cosmetic treatment process for artificially tanning and / or browning human skin, characterized in that it comprises at least one step of applying to said human skin the composition as defined in claim 13.