EP4008213A1 - Jewellery article - Google Patents

Jewellery article Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4008213A1
EP4008213A1 EP21210712.2A EP21210712A EP4008213A1 EP 4008213 A1 EP4008213 A1 EP 4008213A1 EP 21210712 A EP21210712 A EP 21210712A EP 4008213 A1 EP4008213 A1 EP 4008213A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
mount
base element
plate
prongs
gem
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP21210712.2A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP4008213B1 (en
Inventor
Andrea Visconti
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Giorgio Visconti SpA
Original Assignee
Giorgio Visconti SpA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Giorgio Visconti SpA filed Critical Giorgio Visconti SpA
Publication of EP4008213A1 publication Critical patent/EP4008213A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP4008213B1 publication Critical patent/EP4008213B1/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/046Setting gems in a plurality of non coplanar table top planes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C7/00Ear-rings; Devices for piercing the ear-lobes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a jewellery article and in particular to a jewellery article comprising a mounting frame for a gem.
  • mounting frames comprising a plurality of uprights or prongs, generally three to six depending on the shape and size of the gem, arranged to embrace an outer edge of the gem.
  • the mounting frame of the mount-type is one of the lightest and is particularly suitable for precious gems such as diamonds, sapphires and emeralds, as it allows the light to hit the gem both from above and from the sides, enhancing its brilliance.
  • Figures 1 and 2 show a jewellery article according to the prior art, overall indicated by reference 10.
  • the jewellery article 10 comprises a gem 12 embedded in a mount 14.
  • the jewellery article 10 may also comprise further elements (not shown) for fastening the mount to other portions of the jewellery article, such as a bushing for connecting the mount to a chain or hook element for an earring, or a pin integral with the back of the base element of the mount, which configures the jewellery article as a stud earring.
  • the gem 12 comprises an upper portion or crown 16 and a lower portion or pavilion 18, delimited by a radially outer edge 20 also referred to as a girdle, which in the example shown is circular in shape.
  • the gem 12 shown has a so-called brilliant cut.
  • the mount 14 comprises a base element 22, which in the specific example is square in shape, and four uprights or prongs 24 extending orthogonally from the four corners of the base element 22.
  • the prongs 24 are constructed as prismatic elements with a square cross-section, except for any chamfers, such as those shown at the radially innermost edges 26 of the prongs 24 (only one shown in Figures 1-2 ), adapted to abut on the radially outer edge 20 of the gem.
  • the base element 22 further comprises a recess 28 adapted to accommodate the pavilion 18 of the gem 12.
  • the gem 12 is secured in the mount 12 by pushing it from above with a dedicated tool.
  • the shape of the gem 12 can be adapted to that of the prongs 24, to facilitate insertion, by making notches 30 at the edges 26 of the prongs 24.
  • a well-known practice in the industry is to enhance the brilliance of a main gem by surrounding it with secondary gems of lower carat. This effect is achieved by arranging supporting elements for secondary gems around the mount.
  • the technical problem underlying the present invention is therefore that of limiting the costs of a jewellery article while affecting as little as possible the aesthetic perception of its value and prestige.
  • the present invention thus relates, in a first aspect thereof, to a jewellery article comprising:
  • the plate is completely contained within a perimeter edge of the base element of the mount, and is shaped such that the secondary gems are positioned below the main gem and at least partly projecting radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem.
  • the expressions "radially towards the inside” and “radially towards the outside” and the like are intended to refer to a longitudinal axis passing through the centre of the main gem and of the mount in a mounted configuration of the jewellery article and respectively indicate a position closer to, and further away from, said longitudinal axis.
  • the longitudinal axis is vertically oriented.
  • the jewellery article according to the invention advantageously allows the brilliance of the main gem to be enhanced by the addition of secondary gems, without requiring the use of supporting elements to enlarge the perimeter delineated by the mount.
  • the arrangement of the secondary gems partially below the main stone and partially projecting laterally with respect to the main gem provides an advantageous illusory effect of magnification of the main gem.
  • the portion of secondary gems that lies below the main gem reflects part of the light onto the outer surface of the pavilion of the main gem, creating a masking effect that makes the secondary gems and the main gem appear as one.
  • the part of the secondary gems that protrudes radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem on the other hand, reflects light outwards, helping to widen the 'fictitious outer profile' of the main gem.
  • the increased brilliance and optical enlargement conferred by the addition of the secondary gems synergistically contribute in making the main gem housed in the mount appear as a gem having a higher carat.
  • the Applicant has verified that, thanks to the configuration of the invention, it is possible, in a mount of a size normally adapted to house a gem of a certain carat, to use instead a main gem of even significantly lower carat in combination with much smaller secondary gems and without the need to enlarge the mount, obtaining a visual effect entirely comparable to that of the larger gem.
  • the invention allows to mount, in a mount of the same size, a 10-point main gem surrounded by eight 0,003-point secondary gems.
  • the invention thus allows to significantly reduce the manufacturing cost of a jewellery article, while preserving its aesthetic appearance thanks to the illusory effect of magnification and increased brilliance of the main gem due to the presence of secondary gems arranged below it and only partially protruding from it.
  • the secondary gems protrude radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem by about half of their crown surface.
  • the thickness of the base element is lower than or equal to a minimum thickness of the plate.
  • cross-section refers to a direction orthogonal to said longitudinal axis
  • thickness refers to a dimension measured along a direction parallel to said longitudinal axis
  • the base element of the mount of the invention can be made particularly thin when compared to mounts according to the prior art, since half or more of its thickness is replaced by that of the plate. In this way, the provision of the plate does not result in substantial additions of material or, consequently, substantial additional costs.
  • the seats for the secondary gems are made on faces of the plate inclined downwards radially towards the outside.
  • This inclination increases the outward reflection of light by the secondary gems, enhancing the illusory magnification effect discussed above.
  • the prongs of the mount extend substantially orthogonally from the base element and have a substantially rhomboidal cross-section.
  • a major axis of said cross-section is directed radially towards the inside.
  • prongs with a rhomboidal cross-section lengthens the cross-section of the prongs by bringing their radial edge closer to the girdle of the main gem, thus making the mount suitable for housing a smaller main gem, the size of the base element from which the prongs extend being the same.
  • this cross-sectional shape of the prongs allows to increase the space between each pair of adjacent prongs, such space being intended for the formation of seats for secondary gems on suitable portions of the plate.
  • the prongs of the mount extend substantially orthogonally from the base element, and one or more of the prongs of the mount have a substantially triangular cross-section.
  • a height of said cross-section is substantially aligned with a radial direction.
  • prongs with a substantially triangular cross-section achieves similar advantages to those discussed above in relation to the substantially rhomboidal cross-section.
  • the plate comprises fins each configured to fit between a pair of mount prongs.
  • the inclined faces bearing the seats for the secondary gems correspond to the upper faces of said fins.
  • the inclined faces bearing the seats for the secondary gems widen from the centre of the plate towards one of its outer edges.
  • each fin is shaped like a right prism with a trapezoidal base.
  • This conformation increases, the outer size of the plate being the same, the surface of the oblique faces available for the formation of seats and consequently allows the number and/or size of the secondary gems on each oblique face to be increased, increasing the illusory effect of magnification of the main gem.
  • each fin is shaped like a right prism with a base surface in the form of an annular sector.
  • annular sector means an annular surface having a curvature which is not necessarily constant.
  • each plate fin is flush with the perimeter edge of the base element of the mount.
  • the fins of the plate substantially occupy all the space between two adjacent prongs of the mount without protruding from the perimeter edge thereof, thus maximising the area of the oblique faces available to form the housings for the secondary gems.
  • the plate comprises a central through opening defined by radially inner portions of the plate fins.
  • the central opening of the plate is adapted to receive the lower portion or pavilion of the main gem.
  • the plate further comprises connecting ribs extended between pairs of radially inner edges belonging to corresponding pairs of mutually adjacent fins.
  • ribs are essentially mutual coupling elements of two adjacent fins.
  • the ribs are used as welding points of the plate to the mount.
  • the mount comprises 3 to 5 prongs.
  • the base element of the mount is square, and the mount comprises 4 prongs arranged at the corners of the base element.
  • the main gem has a radially outer edge or girdle of substantially circular shape.
  • the perimeter edge of the base element of the mount is at least partly curved.
  • the base element of the mount is drop-shaped.
  • said drop-shaped base element comprises an apical end and a rounded end opposite the apical end.
  • the mount comprises 3 prongs.
  • a first prong is arranged at said apical end of the base element, and second and third prongs are arranged near the rounded end of the base element.
  • the second and third prongs are arranged equidistant from each other with respect to a main axis passing through the apical end and the rounded end of the base element.
  • said drop-shaped base element is symmetrical with respect to said main axis of the base element.
  • each fin of the plate comprises at least one seat, plus preferably at least two seats, configured to house a same number of secondary gems.
  • the plate accommodates 8 to 14 secondary gems.
  • the plate houses 8 secondary gems.
  • the plate houses 13 secondary gems.
  • each fin of the plate bears an equal number of seats for secondary gems.
  • the arrangement of the secondary gems is symmetrical around the main gem.
  • the fins of the plate bear a different number of seats for secondary gems.
  • the plate is fixed to the mount by welding.
  • the jewellery article 110 comprises a main gem 112 secured within a mount 114.
  • the article 110 may comprise connecting elements (not shown), such as bushings or pins, configured to secure the article 110 to further pieces of a final piece of jewellery.
  • the mount 114 comprises a base element 122, preferably square in shape, and a plurality of prongs 124 (four in the embodiment illustrated herein) extending orthogonally from the corners from the base element 122.
  • the prongs 124 are advantageously made as prismatic elements with a rhomboidal base.
  • the prongs 124 have a rhomboidal cross-section.
  • Each prong 124 has a major axis A 1 substantially aligned with a radial direction. From the comparison with Fig. 1 relating to the prior art, it can be seen that the cross-sectional shape of the prongs 124 allows the radially inner edges 126 thereof to be brought closer together (only one is shown in Fig. 3-6 ) at the radially outer edge 120 or girdle of the main gem 112, which is smaller in size than the gem 12 of Fig. 1 .
  • the main gem 112 preferably comprises notches 130 (omitted for the sake of clarity from the exploded view of Fig. 6 ) at the radially inner edges 126 of the prongs 124. These notches allow the shape of the main gem 112 to be adapted to that of the prongs 124, so as to facilitate the insertion of the main gem 112 from above and the securing as explained above.
  • the article 110 further comprises a plate 132 interposed between the base element 122 and the main gem 112.
  • the plate 132 which can be seen more clearly from FIG. 6 , is shaped to occupy a space left free by the prongs 124.
  • the plate 132 is completely contained within the perimeter edge P of the base element 122 of the mount 114, and more particularly a radially outer edge E thereof is flush with said perimeter edge P on all sides of the mount 114, as shown in FIG. 4 .
  • the base element 122 of the mount 114 has a thickness, indicated by S1 in FIG. 5 , which is lower than or equal to a minimum thickness of the plate 132, indicated by S2 in FIG. 5 .
  • the plate 132 comprises four fins 134 of prismatic shape connected to each other, at radially inner corners 136, by ribs 138, only one of which is partially visible in FIG. 6 .
  • the ribs 138 are also used, in the assembly of the jewellery article 110, as welding points of the plate 132 to the mount 114.
  • the fins 134 of the plate 132 are shaped as straight prisms with a substantially trapezoidal base, i.e. each of them has a substantially trapezoidal shaped cross-section.
  • the shape of the fins 134 is such as to allow each fin 134 to fit between the tips 124 of the mount 114 which, as explained above, are advantageously made of a substantially rhomboidal cross-section precisely to allow a greater extension of the fins 134 of the plate 132.
  • a space 133 is defined (only one indicated in FIG. 6 ) with a complementary shape to that of a prong 124 of the mount 114.
  • the plate 132 includes a central through opening 140. This central opening 140 is defined within radially inner portions of the fins 134. In the mounted configuration of the article 110, the central opening 140 receives the pavilion 118 of the main gem 112.
  • the ribs 138 connecting the fins 134 of the plate 132 preferably only extend along part of the length of the radially inner corners 136 of the fins 124. This prevents the ribs 138 from interfering with the pavilion 118 of the main gem 112, which in the mounted condition of the jewellery article 110 extends into the central opening 140.
  • the article 110 comprises secondary gems 142 of a smaller size than the main gem 112.
  • the secondary gems 112 are housed in corresponding housing seats 144 formed on the plate 132.
  • the plate 132 is advantageously shaped such that the secondary gems 142 are arranged below the main gem 112 and protrude at least partly radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem 112.
  • the portion of the secondary gems 142 that projects radially towards the outside with respect to the girdle 120 of the main gem 112 corresponds to approximately half of the crown surface of the secondary gems 142, i.e., the upper surface of the secondary gems 142 delimited below by the respective girdle.
  • this configuration allows to create the illusory effect of magnification of the main gem 112, thanks to the synergy between light reflection phenomena on the pavilion 118 of the main gem 112 and light reflection phenomena on the outside.
  • Said housing seats 144 are formed on oblique faces 146 of the plate 132. These oblique faces 146 correspond to upper faces of the fins 134, which are therefore referred to in the following by the same reference 146.
  • the oblique faces 146 widen going from the centre of the plate 132 towards a radially outer edge E thereof.
  • the oblique faces 146 are inclined downwards along an outwardly oriented radial direction, which makes the secondary gems 142 more outwardly exposed, promoting outward light reflection.
  • the article 110 comprises a total of eight secondary gems 142, arranged in pairs on each upper face 146 of the fins 134.
  • the jewellery article 210 comprises a main gem 212 having a drop-shaped cut, embedded in a mount 214 comprising a base element 222, also drop-shaped, and a plurality of prongs 224 - three in particular - extending orthogonally from the base element 222.
  • the article 210 may comprise connecting elements (not shown), such as bushings or pins, configured to secure the article 210 to further pieces of a final piece of jewellery.
  • the base element 222 comprises an apical end 221 and a rounded end 223 opposite the apical end, and is symmetrical with respect to a main axis (not shown) passing through said apical and rounded ends.
  • the mount 214 preferably comprises three prongs 224 made as prismatic elements, comprising in particular an apical tip 224a arranged at the apical end 221 of the base element 222, and base prongs 224b, 224c arranged in proximity to the rounded end 223, suitably spaced from each other along a perimeter edge P of the base element 222 of the mount 214.
  • the two base prongs 224b, 224c are arranged symmetrically, and equidistant from each other, with respect to the main axis (not shown) of the base element 222.
  • the apical prong 224a has a substantially rhomboidal base (apart from the notch 231 discussed below) with major axis A 1 substantially aligned with a radial direction.
  • the base prongs 224b, 224c have a substantially triangular base, with a base side B following the curvature of the radially outer perimeter of the base element 222, and a height A 2 also substantially aligned with a radial direction.
  • the main gem 212 may comprise notches 230 (only one shown in FIG. 7 ) at radially inner edges 226 of the prongs 224, in order to facilitate the insertion of the main gem 212 within the mount.
  • the apical prong 224a of the mount 214 also exhibits, by way of example, the notch 231 at its radially inner edge 226.
  • the article 210 comprises a plate 232 interposed between the base element 222 and the main gem 212 and shaped to occupy the free spaces between the prongs 224.
  • the plate 232 is completely contained within the perimeter edge P of the base element 222 of the mount 214, and more particularly a radially outer edge E thereof is flush with such perimeter edge P for the entire length thereof, as can be seen in FIG. 7 .
  • the plate 232 comprises four fins 234 of prismatic shape connected to each other, at radially inner edges 236, by ribs 238 (only one of which is partially visible in FIG. 8 ) entirely similar to that described in relation to the jewellery article 110.
  • the plate 232 is provided with a central through opening 240, defined within radially inner portions of the fins 234 and configured to receive the pavilion 218 of the main gem 212.
  • the fins 234 of the plate 232 are shaped to fit between the prongs 224 of the mount 214, being inserted into the spaces 233 (only one shown in FIG. 8 ) with a complementary shape to that of the prongs 224 of the mount 214.
  • the fins 234 are shaped like straight prisms, having an annular sector as a base surface, the curvature of which is not constant and in particular such as to follow the drop shape of the base element 222.
  • the base element 222 and the plate 232 have respective thicknesses S1 and S2 (shown in FIG. 7 ) entirely similar to what has been described above in connection with the jewellery article 210, with all the advantages thereof.
  • the article 210 comprises secondary gems 242 of a smaller size than the main gem 212, housed in housing seats 244 formed on the plate 232 and arranged below the main gem 212 in such a way that they protrude at least partly (and in particular by at least half of the related crown surface) radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem 212.
  • the aforementioned housing seats 244 are obtained on oblique upper faces 246 of the plate 232.
  • Such oblique upper faces 246 of the plate 232 widen going from the centre of the plate 232 towards its radially outer edge E, and are inclined downwards along a radial direction oriented towards the outside, with all the related advantages already set out.
  • the article 210 comprises a total of thirteen secondary gems 242, preferably ten of which are equally divided on the pair of fins 234 adjacent to the apical end 221 of the base element 222, and three arranged on the fin 234 adjacent to the rounded end 223 of the base element 222.
  • the assembly of the jewellery article 110, 210 provides for the secondary gems 142, 242 to be secured in the related seats 144, 244 on the plate 132, 232.
  • the plate 132, 232 is coupled to the mount 114, 214 by inserting the prongs 124, 224 into the corresponding spaces 133, 233 formed between each pair of fins 134, 234, and is slid toward the base element 122, 222 (vertically in Figures 6 , 8 ) until it abuts against the latter.
  • the plate 132, 232 is welded to the mount 114, 214.
  • the main gem 112, 212 is assembled in the manner described above.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a jewellery article comprising:- a mount (114) comprising a base element (122) and a plurality of prongs (124) projecting from the base element (122),- a main gem (112) arranged between the prongs (124) of the mount (114), and- a plate (132) interposed between the base element (122) of the mount (114) and the main gem (112), comprising a plurality of seats (144) housing a corresponding plurality of secondary gems (142) having a lower carat than the main gem (112).The plate (132) is completely contained within a perimeter edge of the base element (122) of the mount (114), and is shaped such that the secondary gems (142) are positioned below the main gem (112) and at least partly projecting radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem (112).

Description

  • The present invention relates to a jewellery article and in particular to a jewellery article comprising a mounting frame for a gem.
  • Gems, precious stones and decorative elements in general are attached to jewellery articles by means of various types of mounting frames. In particular, mounting frames known as mounts are used, comprising a plurality of uprights or prongs, generally three to six depending on the shape and size of the gem, arranged to embrace an outer edge of the gem.
  • The mounting frame of the mount-type is one of the lightest and is particularly suitable for precious gems such as diamonds, sapphires and emeralds, as it allows the light to hit the gem both from above and from the sides, enhancing its brilliance.
  • Figures 1 and 2 show a jewellery article according to the prior art, overall indicated by reference 10.
  • The jewellery article 10 comprises a gem 12 embedded in a mount 14. The jewellery article 10 may also comprise further elements (not shown) for fastening the mount to other portions of the jewellery article, such as a bushing for connecting the mount to a chain or hook element for an earring, or a pin integral with the back of the base element of the mount, which configures the jewellery article as a stud earring.
  • As can be seen more clearly in the exploded view of FIG. 2, the gem 12 comprises an upper portion or crown 16 and a lower portion or pavilion 18, delimited by a radially outer edge 20 also referred to as a girdle, which in the example shown is circular in shape.
  • As an example, the gem 12 shown has a so-called brilliant cut.
  • The mount 14 comprises a base element 22, which in the specific example is square in shape, and four uprights or prongs 24 extending orthogonally from the four corners of the base element 22.
  • In the example shown, the prongs 24 are constructed as prismatic elements with a square cross-section, except for any chamfers, such as those shown at the radially innermost edges 26 of the prongs 24 (only one shown in Figures 1-2), adapted to abut on the radially outer edge 20 of the gem. The base element 22 further comprises a recess 28 adapted to accommodate the pavilion 18 of the gem 12.
  • The gem 12 is secured in the mount 12 by pushing it from above with a dedicated tool. The shape of the gem 12 can be adapted to that of the prongs 24, to facilitate insertion, by making notches 30 at the edges 26 of the prongs 24.
  • A well-known practice in the industry is to enhance the brilliance of a main gem by surrounding it with secondary gems of lower carat. This effect is achieved by arranging supporting elements for secondary gems around the mount.
  • The Applicant observes that articles of this type, which are considered to be fine jewellery, are particularly expensive, since in addition to the value of the secondary gems, the value of the additional material needed to make the relevant supporting elements must also be taken into account. Considering that mounts are normally made of noble metals such as silver, gold or platinum, such additional material can significantly increase the cost of the final article.
  • On the other hand, the Applicant observes that even in the fine jewellery field, where it is important to enhance as much as possible the beauty and value of the gems used, there is a need to reduce the manufacturing costs while maintaining a high perception of quality and prestige of the final articles.
  • The Applicant therefore perceived that it would be advantageous to be able to enhance the visual effect of brilliance of a main gem so as to make it look like a gem having a higher carat, the size of the related mount being equal.
  • The technical problem underlying the present invention is therefore that of limiting the costs of a jewellery article while affecting as little as possible the aesthetic perception of its value and prestige.
  • The present invention thus relates, in a first aspect thereof, to a jewellery article comprising:
    • a mount comprising a base element and a plurality of prongs projecting from the base element,
    • a main gem arranged between the prongs of the mount, and
    • a plate interposed between the base element of the mount and the main gem, comprising a plurality of seats housing a corresponding plurality of secondary gems having a lower carat than the main gem.
  • Advantageously, the plate is completely contained within a perimeter edge of the base element of the mount, and is shaped such that the secondary gems are positioned below the main gem and at least partly projecting radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem.
  • In this description and the appended claims, positional expressions such as above, below, top, bottom, sideways and the like are used with reference to a jewellery article assembled and arranged as in the appended Figures 3 and 5, with the main gem having its crown exposed upwards.
  • In this description and in the appended claims, the expressions "radially towards the inside" and "radially towards the outside" and the like are intended to refer to a longitudinal axis passing through the centre of the main gem and of the mount in a mounted configuration of the jewellery article and respectively indicate a position closer to, and further away from, said longitudinal axis. In the appended figures, the longitudinal axis is vertically oriented.
  • The jewellery article according to the invention advantageously allows the brilliance of the main gem to be enhanced by the addition of secondary gems, without requiring the use of supporting elements to enlarge the perimeter delineated by the mount.
  • Above all, the arrangement of the secondary gems partially below the main stone and partially projecting laterally with respect to the main gem provides an advantageous illusory effect of magnification of the main gem.
  • In particular, the portion of secondary gems that lies below the main gem reflects part of the light onto the outer surface of the pavilion of the main gem, creating a masking effect that makes the secondary gems and the main gem appear as one. The part of the secondary gems that protrudes radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem, on the other hand, reflects light outwards, helping to widen the 'fictitious outer profile' of the main gem. The increased brilliance and optical enlargement conferred by the addition of the secondary gems synergistically contribute in making the main gem housed in the mount appear as a gem having a higher carat.
  • The Applicant has verified that, thanks to the configuration of the invention, it is possible, in a mount of a size normally adapted to house a gem of a certain carat, to use instead a main gem of even significantly lower carat in combination with much smaller secondary gems and without the need to enlarge the mount, obtaining a visual effect entirely comparable to that of the larger gem.
  • Merely by way of example, considering a mount dimensioned for a 30-point gem (1 point = 1/100 of a carat), the invention allows to mount, in a mount of the same size, a 10-point main gem surrounded by eight 0,003-point secondary gems.
  • The invention thus allows to significantly reduce the manufacturing cost of a jewellery article, while preserving its aesthetic appearance thanks to the illusory effect of magnification and increased brilliance of the main gem due to the presence of secondary gems arranged below it and only partially protruding from it.
  • Preferred features of the jewellery article according to the invention are recited in the dependent claims. The features of each dependent claim may be used individually or in combination with those recited in the other dependent claims, unless they appear to be in obvious conflict.
  • Preferably, the secondary gems protrude radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem by about half of their crown surface.
  • In other words, preferably about half of the upper surface of the secondary gems, delimited below by the related girdle, protrudes radially towards the outside beyond the girdle of the main gem.
  • The Applicant has verified that this reciprocal positioning between the secondary gems and the main gem maximises the illusory magnification effect of the main gem, as it maximises both the reflection of light towards the outside by the portion of secondary gems that protrudes with respect to the main gem, and the reflection of light on the lower surface of the main gem by the portion of the secondary gems below the main gem.
  • Preferably, the thickness of the base element is lower than or equal to a minimum thickness of the plate.
  • In this description and the appended claims, the term "cross-section" refers to a direction orthogonal to said longitudinal axis, while the term "thickness" refers to a dimension measured along a direction parallel to said longitudinal axis.
  • The base element of the mount of the invention can be made particularly thin when compared to mounts according to the prior art, since half or more of its thickness is replaced by that of the plate. In this way, the provision of the plate does not result in substantial additions of material or, consequently, substantial additional costs.
  • Preferably, the seats for the secondary gems are made on faces of the plate inclined downwards radially towards the outside.
  • This inclination increases the outward reflection of light by the secondary gems, enhancing the illusory magnification effect discussed above.
  • In some embodiments, the prongs of the mount extend substantially orthogonally from the base element and have a substantially rhomboidal cross-section.
  • Preferably, a major axis of said cross-section is directed radially towards the inside.
  • The construction of prongs with a rhomboidal cross-section, with a major axis directed towards the centre of the gem, lengthens the cross-section of the prongs by bringing their radial edge closer to the girdle of the main gem, thus making the mount suitable for housing a smaller main gem, the size of the base element from which the prongs extend being the same.
  • In addition, this cross-sectional shape of the prongs allows to increase the space between each pair of adjacent prongs, such space being intended for the formation of seats for secondary gems on suitable portions of the plate.
  • In other embodiments, the prongs of the mount extend substantially orthogonally from the base element, and one or more of the prongs of the mount have a substantially triangular cross-section.
  • Preferably, in such a case, a height of said cross-section is substantially aligned with a radial direction.
  • The construction of prongs with a substantially triangular cross-section achieves similar advantages to those discussed above in relation to the substantially rhomboidal cross-section.
  • Preferably, the plate comprises fins each configured to fit between a pair of mount prongs.
  • Preferably, the inclined faces bearing the seats for the secondary gems correspond to the upper faces of said fins.
  • Preferably, moreover, the inclined faces bearing the seats for the secondary gems widen from the centre of the plate towards one of its outer edges.
  • In some embodiments, each fin is shaped like a right prism with a trapezoidal base.
  • This conformation increases, the outer size of the plate being the same, the surface of the oblique faces available for the formation of seats and consequently allows the number and/or size of the secondary gems on each oblique face to be increased, increasing the illusory effect of magnification of the main gem.
  • In other embodiments, each fin is shaped like a right prism with a base surface in the form of an annular sector.
  • In this description and in the appended claims, the annular sector means an annular surface having a curvature which is not necessarily constant.
  • Preferably, a radially outer edge of each plate fin is flush with the perimeter edge of the base element of the mount.
  • In this way, the fins of the plate substantially occupy all the space between two adjacent prongs of the mount without protruding from the perimeter edge thereof, thus maximising the area of the oblique faces available to form the housings for the secondary gems.
  • Preferably, the plate comprises a central through opening defined by radially inner portions of the plate fins.
  • The central opening of the plate is adapted to receive the lower portion or pavilion of the main gem.
  • Preferably, the plate further comprises connecting ribs extended between pairs of radially inner edges belonging to corresponding pairs of mutually adjacent fins.
  • These ribs are essentially mutual coupling elements of two adjacent fins. In addition, the ribs are used as welding points of the plate to the mount.
  • Preferably, the mount comprises 3 to 5 prongs.
  • In some embodiments, the base element of the mount is square, and the mount comprises 4 prongs arranged at the corners of the base element.
  • Preferably, in such a case, the main gem has a radially outer edge or girdle of substantially circular shape.
  • In other embodiments, the perimeter edge of the base element of the mount is at least partly curved.
  • Preferably, in this case, the base element of the mount is drop-shaped.
  • Preferably, said drop-shaped base element comprises an apical end and a rounded end opposite the apical end.
  • Preferably, in this case, the mount comprises 3 prongs.
  • More preferably, a first prong is arranged at said apical end of the base element, and second and third prongs are arranged near the rounded end of the base element.
  • Even more preferably, the second and third prongs are arranged equidistant from each other with respect to a main axis passing through the apical end and the rounded end of the base element.
  • Preferably, said drop-shaped base element is symmetrical with respect to said main axis of the base element.
  • Preferably, each fin of the plate comprises at least one seat, plus preferably at least two seats, configured to house a same number of secondary gems.
  • Preferably, the plate accommodates 8 to 14 secondary gems.
  • In some embodiments, the plate houses 8 secondary gems.
  • In other embodiments, the plate houses 13 secondary gems.
  • In some embodiments, each fin of the plate bears an equal number of seats for secondary gems.
  • In this way, the arrangement of the secondary gems is symmetrical around the main gem.
  • In other embodiments, the fins of the plate bear a different number of seats for secondary gems.
  • Preferably, the plate is fixed to the mount by welding.
  • Further features and advantages of the present invention will best be seen from the following detailed description of preferred embodiments thereof, made with reference to the accompanying drawings, which are to be considered schematic representations and not to scale, and given by way of indication and not limitation. In such drawings:
    • Fig. 1 is a top view of a jewellery article according to the prior art described above;
    • Fig. 2 is an exploded perspective view of the jewellery article according to the prior art of Fig. 1;
    • Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a jewellery article according to a first embodiment of the invention;
    • Fig. 4 is a top view of the jewellery article of Fig. 3;
    • Fig. 5 is a side view of the jewellery article of Fig. 3-4,
    • Fig. 6 is an exploded view of the jewellery article of Fig. 3-5,
    • Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a jewellery article according to a second embodiment of the invention, and
    • Fig. 8 is an exploded view of the jewellery article of Fig. 7.
  • With reference to Figures 3-6, a first preferred embodiment of an jewellery article according to the invention, overall referred to by reference 110, is now described.
  • The jewellery article 110 comprises a main gem 112 secured within a mount 114. As explained above in relation to the jewellery article 10 according to the prior art, also in this case the article 110 may comprise connecting elements (not shown), such as bushings or pins, configured to secure the article 110 to further pieces of a final piece of jewellery.
  • The mount 114 comprises a base element 122, preferably square in shape, and a plurality of prongs 124 (four in the embodiment illustrated herein) extending orthogonally from the corners from the base element 122.
  • As can be seen more clearly in Fig. 4, the prongs 124 are advantageously made as prismatic elements with a rhomboidal base. In particular, the prongs 124 have a rhomboidal cross-section.
  • Each prong 124 has a major axis A1 substantially aligned with a radial direction. From the comparison with Fig. 1 relating to the prior art, it can be seen that the cross-sectional shape of the prongs 124 allows the radially inner edges 126 thereof to be brought closer together (only one is shown in Fig. 3-6) at the radially outer edge 120 or girdle of the main gem 112, which is smaller in size than the gem 12 of Fig. 1.
  • The main gem 112 preferably comprises notches 130 (omitted for the sake of clarity from the exploded view of Fig. 6) at the radially inner edges 126 of the prongs 124. These notches allow the shape of the main gem 112 to be adapted to that of the prongs 124, so as to facilitate the insertion of the main gem 112 from above and the securing as explained above.
  • According to the invention, the article 110 further comprises a plate 132 interposed between the base element 122 and the main gem 112.
  • The plate 132, which can be seen more clearly from FIG. 6, is shaped to occupy a space left free by the prongs 124. The plate 132 is completely contained within the perimeter edge P of the base element 122 of the mount 114, and more particularly a radially outer edge E thereof is flush with said perimeter edge P on all sides of the mount 114, as shown in FIG. 4.
  • Although this is hard to appreciate from the schematic representations of the various drawings, according to the invention the base element 122 of the mount 114 has a thickness, indicated by S1 in FIG. 5, which is lower than or equal to a minimum thickness of the plate 132, indicated by S2 in FIG. 5.
  • This ensures that the base element 122 is made thin enough, so that the overall dimensions of the assembly formed by the base element 122 and the plate 132 are not substantially greater than those of a base element 22 of a mount 12 according to the prior art, such as that shown in FIG. 2.
  • In particular, the plate 132 comprises four fins 134 of prismatic shape connected to each other, at radially inner corners 136, by ribs 138, only one of which is partially visible in FIG. 6.
  • In addition to providing structural support to the plate 132, the ribs 138 are also used, in the assembly of the jewellery article 110, as welding points of the plate 132 to the mount 114.
  • The fins 134 of the plate 132 are shaped as straight prisms with a substantially trapezoidal base, i.e. each of them has a substantially trapezoidal shaped cross-section.
  • The shape of the fins 134 is such as to allow each fin 134 to fit between the tips 124 of the mount 114 which, as explained above, are advantageously made of a substantially rhomboidal cross-section precisely to allow a greater extension of the fins 134 of the plate 132. In fact, between each pair of adjacent fins 134, a space 133 is defined (only one indicated in FIG. 6) with a complementary shape to that of a prong 124 of the mount 114.
  • The plate 132 includes a central through opening 140. This central opening 140 is defined within radially inner portions of the fins 134. In the mounted configuration of the article 110, the central opening 140 receives the pavilion 118 of the main gem 112.
  • The ribs 138 connecting the fins 134 of the plate 132 preferably only extend along part of the length of the radially inner corners 136 of the fins 124. This prevents the ribs 138 from interfering with the pavilion 118 of the main gem 112, which in the mounted condition of the jewellery article 110 extends into the central opening 140.
  • In accordance with the invention, the article 110 comprises secondary gems 142 of a smaller size than the main gem 112.
  • The secondary gems 112 are housed in corresponding housing seats 144 formed on the plate 132.
  • The plate 132 is advantageously shaped such that the secondary gems 142 are arranged below the main gem 112 and protrude at least partly radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem 112.
  • More specifically, as can be seen in FIG. 4, the portion of the secondary gems 142 that projects radially towards the outside with respect to the girdle 120 of the main gem 112 corresponds to approximately half of the crown surface of the secondary gems 142, i.e., the upper surface of the secondary gems 142 delimited below by the respective girdle.
  • As explained above, this configuration allows to create the illusory effect of magnification of the main gem 112, thanks to the synergy between light reflection phenomena on the pavilion 118 of the main gem 112 and light reflection phenomena on the outside.
  • Said housing seats 144 are formed on oblique faces 146 of the plate 132. These oblique faces 146 correspond to upper faces of the fins 134, which are therefore referred to in the following by the same reference 146.
  • By virtue of the substantially trapezoidal base of the fins 134, the oblique faces 146 widen going from the centre of the plate 132 towards a radially outer edge E thereof.
  • The oblique faces 146 are inclined downwards along an outwardly oriented radial direction, which makes the secondary gems 142 more outwardly exposed, promoting outward light reflection.
  • In the embodiment shown, which is particularly preferred, the article 110 comprises a total of eight secondary gems 142, arranged in pairs on each upper face 146 of the fins 134.
  • With reference to Figures 7-8, a second preferred embodiment of an jewellery article according to the invention, overall referred to by reference 210, is now described.
  • The jewellery article 210 comprises a main gem 212 having a drop-shaped cut, embedded in a mount 214 comprising a base element 222, also drop-shaped, and a plurality of prongs 224 - three in particular - extending orthogonally from the base element 222.
  • Again, the article 210 may comprise connecting elements (not shown), such as bushings or pins, configured to secure the article 210 to further pieces of a final piece of jewellery.
  • The base element 222 comprises an apical end 221 and a rounded end 223 opposite the apical end, and is symmetrical with respect to a main axis (not shown) passing through said apical and rounded ends.
  • In the embodiment discussed herein, the mount 214 preferably comprises three prongs 224 made as prismatic elements, comprising in particular an apical tip 224a arranged at the apical end 221 of the base element 222, and base prongs 224b, 224c arranged in proximity to the rounded end 223, suitably spaced from each other along a perimeter edge P of the base element 222 of the mount 214. In particular, the two base prongs 224b, 224c are arranged symmetrically, and equidistant from each other, with respect to the main axis (not shown) of the base element 222.
  • The apical prong 224a has a substantially rhomboidal base (apart from the notch 231 discussed below) with major axis A1 substantially aligned with a radial direction. The base prongs 224b, 224c have a substantially triangular base, with a base side B following the curvature of the radially outer perimeter of the base element 222, and a height A2 also substantially aligned with a radial direction.
  • As in the previously described embodiment, also in this case the main gem 212 may comprise notches 230 (only one shown in FIG. 7) at radially inner edges 226 of the prongs 224, in order to facilitate the insertion of the main gem 212 within the mount. For the same purpose, the apical prong 224a of the mount 214 also exhibits, by way of example, the notch 231 at its radially inner edge 226.
  • According to the invention, the article 210 comprises a plate 232 interposed between the base element 222 and the main gem 212 and shaped to occupy the free spaces between the prongs 224. The plate 232 is completely contained within the perimeter edge P of the base element 222 of the mount 214, and more particularly a radially outer edge E thereof is flush with such perimeter edge P for the entire length thereof, as can be seen in FIG. 7.
  • The plate 232 comprises four fins 234 of prismatic shape connected to each other, at radially inner edges 236, by ribs 238 (only one of which is partially visible in FIG. 8) entirely similar to that described in relation to the jewellery article 110. The plate 232 is provided with a central through opening 240, defined within radially inner portions of the fins 234 and configured to receive the pavilion 218 of the main gem 212.
  • The fins 234 of the plate 232 are shaped to fit between the prongs 224 of the mount 214, being inserted into the spaces 233 (only one shown in FIG. 8) with a complementary shape to that of the prongs 224 of the mount 214.
  • In order to follow the curved configuration of the mount 214, the fins 234 are shaped like straight prisms, having an annular sector as a base surface, the curvature of which is not constant and in particular such as to follow the drop shape of the base element 222.
  • The base element 222 and the plate 232 have respective thicknesses S1 and S2 (shown in FIG. 7) entirely similar to what has been described above in connection with the jewellery article 210, with all the advantages thereof.
  • In accordance with the invention, the article 210 comprises secondary gems 242 of a smaller size than the main gem 212, housed in housing seats 244 formed on the plate 232 and arranged below the main gem 212 in such a way that they protrude at least partly (and in particular by at least half of the related crown surface) radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem 212.
  • In an entirely similar way to what has been described in connection with the preceding embodiment, the aforementioned housing seats 244 are obtained on oblique upper faces 246 of the plate 232. Such oblique upper faces 246 of the plate 232 widen going from the centre of the plate 232 towards its radially outer edge E, and are inclined downwards along a radial direction oriented towards the outside, with all the related advantages already set out.
  • In the embodiment illustrated in Figures 7-8, the article 210 comprises a total of thirteen secondary gems 242, preferably ten of which are equally divided on the pair of fins 234 adjacent to the apical end 221 of the base element 222, and three arranged on the fin 234 adjacent to the rounded end 223 of the base element 222.
  • The assembly of the jewellery article 110, 210 according to the invention provides for the secondary gems 142, 242 to be secured in the related seats 144, 244 on the plate 132, 232. Before or after such securing, the plate 132, 232 is coupled to the mount 114, 214 by inserting the prongs 124, 224 into the corresponding spaces 133, 233 formed between each pair of fins 134, 234, and is slid toward the base element 122, 222 (vertically in Figures 6, 8) until it abuts against the latter. Next, the plate 132, 232 is welded to the mount 114, 214. Finally, the main gem 112, 212 is assembled in the manner described above.
  • In order to meet specific and contingent requirements, a person skilled in the art may make numerous modifications and variations to the jewellery article 110, 210 described above with reference to Figures 3-8, all of which are, however, within the scope of protection of the present invention as defined by the following claims.

Claims (14)

  1. Jewellery article (110, 210) comprising:
    - a mount (114, 214) comprising a base element (122, 222) and a plurality of prongs (124, 224) projecting from the base element (122, 222),
    - a main gem (112, 212) arranged between the prongs (124, 224) of the mount (114, 214), and
    - a plate (132, 232) interposed between the base element (122, 222) of the mount (114, 214) and the main gem (112, 212), comprising a plurality of seats (144, 244) housing a corresponding plurality of secondary gems (142, 242) having a lower carat than the main gem (112, 212),
    said plate (132, 232) being completely contained within a perimeter edge (P) of the base element (122, 222) of the mount (114, 214), and being shaped such that the secondary gems (142, 242) are positioned below the main gem (112, 212) and at least partly projecting radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem (112, 212).
  2. Jewellery article (110) according to claim 1, wherein the secondary gems (142, 242) project radially towards the outside with respect to the main gem (112, 212) by about half of a crown surface thereof.
  3. Jewellery article (110, 210) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein a thickness (S1) of the base element (122, 222) of the mount (114, 214) is lower than or equal to a minimum thickness (S2) of the plate (132, 232).
  4. Jewellery article (110, 210) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the seats (144, 244) for the secondary gems (142, 242) are made on faces (146, 246) of the plate (132, 232) inclined downwards towards the outside.
  5. Jewellery article (110, 210) according to claim 4, wherein said faces (146, 246) widen going from the centre of the plate (132, 232) towards an outer edge thereof.
  6. Jewellery article (110, 210) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the prongs (124, 224) of the mount (114, 214) extend substantially orthogonally to the base element (122, 222), and wherein:
    - the prongs (124) of the mount (114) have a substantially rhomboidal cross-section, a major axis (A1) of said cross-section being substantially aligned to a radial direction, or
    - at least some of the prongs (224) of the mount (214) have a substantially triangular cross-section, a height (A2) of said substantially triangular cross-section being substantially aligned to a radial direction.
  7. Jewellery article (110, 210) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the plate (132, 232) comprises fins (134, 234) each configured to fit between a pair of prongs (124, 224) of the mount (114, 214), and wherein said faces (146, 246) are upper faces of said fins (134, 234).
  8. Jewellery article (110, 210) according to claim 7, wherein each fin (134) is shaped as a straight prism with a substantially trapezoidal base, or as a straight prism with a base surface in the shape of an annular sector.
  9. Jewellery article (110, 210) according to any one of claims 7-8, wherein a radially outer edge (E) of each fin (134, 234) of the plate (132, 232) is flush with the perimeter edge (P) of the base element (122, 222) of the mount (114, 214).
  10. Jewellery article (110, 210) according to any one of claims 7-9, wherein the plate (132, 134) comprises a central through opening (140, 240) defined by radially inner portions of said fins (134, 234) of the plate (132, 232).
  11. Jewellery article (110, 210) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the plate (132, 232) further comprises connecting ribs (138, 238) extended between pairs of corners (136, 236) belonging to corresponding pairs of adjacent fins (134, 234).
  12. Jewellery article (110) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the base element (112) of the mount (114) is square and the mount (114) comprises four prongs (124) arranged at the corners of the base element (112).
  13. Jewellery article (210) according to any one of claims 1-11, wherein the perimeter edge (P) of the base element (222) of the mount (214) is at least partially curved.
  14. Jewellery article (210) according to claim 13, wherein the base element (222) of the mount (214) is drop-shaped and the mount (214) comprises three prongs (224).
EP21210712.2A 2020-12-01 2021-11-26 Jewellery article Active EP4008213B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT102020000029168A IT202000029168A1 (en) 2020-12-01 2020-12-01 JEWELERY ITEM

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EP4008213A1 true EP4008213A1 (en) 2022-06-08
EP4008213B1 EP4008213B1 (en) 2023-04-26

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EP (1) EP4008213B1 (en)
ES (1) ES2945825T3 (en)
IT (1) IT202000029168A1 (en)
LT (1) LT4008213T (en)

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB483401A (en) * 1937-01-11 1938-04-20 W H Collins & Company Ltd Improvements in settings for gems and the like
CN203168202U (en) * 2013-02-05 2013-09-04 杜半 Diamond jewelry with rotatable collet
CN210642853U (en) * 2019-07-30 2020-06-02 深圳市铭匠珠宝有限公司 Inlay ring of combination formula

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB483401A (en) * 1937-01-11 1938-04-20 W H Collins & Company Ltd Improvements in settings for gems and the like
CN203168202U (en) * 2013-02-05 2013-09-04 杜半 Diamond jewelry with rotatable collet
CN210642853U (en) * 2019-07-30 2020-06-02 深圳市铭匠珠宝有限公司 Inlay ring of combination formula

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP4008213B1 (en) 2023-04-26
LT4008213T (en) 2023-06-26
IT202000029168A1 (en) 2022-06-01
ES2945825T3 (en) 2023-07-07

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