EP3927437A1 - Belay device for assisted climbing - Google Patents

Belay device for assisted climbing

Info

Publication number
EP3927437A1
EP3927437A1 EP20710236.9A EP20710236A EP3927437A1 EP 3927437 A1 EP3927437 A1 EP 3927437A1 EP 20710236 A EP20710236 A EP 20710236A EP 3927437 A1 EP3927437 A1 EP 3927437A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
pulley
climbing
motor
rope
climber
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP20710236.9A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Jérôme BOURQUARD
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Abeo SA
Original Assignee
Abeo SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Abeo SA filed Critical Abeo SA
Publication of EP3927437A1 publication Critical patent/EP3927437A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B21/00Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/00181Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices comprising additional means assisting the user to overcome part of the resisting force, i.e. assisted-active exercising
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A62LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
    • A62BDEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
    • A62B1/00Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like
    • A62B1/06Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rope-lowering devices
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A62LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
    • A62BDEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
    • A62B35/00Safety belts or body harnesses; Similar equipment for limiting displacement of the human body, especially in case of sudden changes of motion
    • A62B35/0093Fall arrest reel devices
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B69/00Training appliances or apparatus for special sports
    • A63B69/0048Training appliances or apparatus for special sports for mountaineering, e.g. climbing-walls, grip elements for climbing-walls
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B71/00Games or sports accessories not covered in groups A63B1/00 - A63B69/00
    • A63B71/0054Features for injury prevention on an apparatus, e.g. shock absorbers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B71/00Games or sports accessories not covered in groups A63B1/00 - A63B69/00
    • A63B71/06Indicating or scoring devices for games or players, or for other sports activities
    • A63B71/0619Displays, user interfaces and indicating devices, specially adapted for sport equipment, e.g. display mounted on treadmills
    • A63B71/0622Visual, audio or audio-visual systems for entertaining, instructing or motivating the user
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B71/00Games or sports accessories not covered in groups A63B1/00 - A63B69/00
    • A63B71/0054Features for injury prevention on an apparatus, e.g. shock absorbers
    • A63B2071/0081Stopping the operation of the apparatus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B71/00Games or sports accessories not covered in groups A63B1/00 - A63B69/00
    • A63B71/06Indicating or scoring devices for games or players, or for other sports activities
    • A63B71/0619Displays, user interfaces and indicating devices, specially adapted for sport equipment, e.g. display mounted on treadmills
    • A63B71/0622Visual, audio or audio-visual systems for entertaining, instructing or motivating the user
    • A63B2071/0638Displaying moving images of recorded environment, e.g. virtual environment
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B71/00Games or sports accessories not covered in groups A63B1/00 - A63B69/00
    • A63B71/06Indicating or scoring devices for games or players, or for other sports activities
    • A63B71/0619Displays, user interfaces and indicating devices, specially adapted for sport equipment, e.g. display mounted on treadmills
    • A63B2071/0658Position or arrangement of display
    • A63B2071/0661Position or arrangement of display arranged on the user
    • A63B2071/0666Position or arrangement of display arranged on the user worn on the head or face, e.g. combined with goggles or glasses
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B21/00Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/005Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using electromagnetic or electric force-resisters
    • A63B21/0058Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices using electromagnetic or electric force-resisters using motors
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B21/00Exercising apparatus for developing or strengthening the muscles or joints of the body by working against a counterforce, with or without measuring devices
    • A63B21/15Arrangements for force transmissions
    • A63B21/151Using flexible elements for reciprocating movements, e.g. ropes or chains
    • A63B21/153Using flexible elements for reciprocating movements, e.g. ropes or chains wound-up and unwound during exercise, e.g. from a reel
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B2220/00Measuring of physical parameters relating to sporting activity
    • A63B2220/10Positions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B2220/00Measuring of physical parameters relating to sporting activity
    • A63B2220/20Distances or displacements
    • A63B2220/24Angular displacement
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B2220/00Measuring of physical parameters relating to sporting activity
    • A63B2220/30Speed
    • A63B2220/34Angular speed
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B2220/00Measuring of physical parameters relating to sporting activity
    • A63B2220/80Special sensors, transducers or devices therefor
    • A63B2220/805Optical or opto-electronic sensors
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of climbing as a sport or leisure physical activity.
  • It relates in particular to a device of the belay brake type having increased functions compared to devices known in the state of the art.
  • automatic reels allow the belay of a climber.
  • automatic reels constitute so-called rope distribution means and serve to protect a climber against falls by retracting into the reel the play present in the rope when the rope is not under load and by providing a braking force when the rope is loaded, so that the weight at the end of the rope is reduced with a safe purpose (typically, to prevent or slow down a fall).
  • document US2014048639 discloses an automatic reel combining a rope return spring and a braking system contactless eddy current, operating on the principle that when an electrically conductive element passes through a magnetic field (or vice versa), the relative motion induces a flow of electric currents in the conductor, which in turn induce a magnetic field which opposes the magnetic field which is applied.
  • the invention relates to a belay device for climbing
  • the device comprising an automatic reel comprising a pulley and a rope.
  • the device is configured so that the rope is wound or unwound according to the progress of a climber provided by said belay device.
  • the belay device comprises an electric motor configured so as to be able to apply a torque to the pulley and an encoder coupled to the pulley, the motor being controlled by an electronic control circuit using the encoder as a function of the rotation of the pulley so as to modulate said torque applied to the pulley according to at least:
  • the device thus proposed in the invention makes it possible to ensure a climber, while offering an assistance function.
  • the device makes it possible to manage both the climb or "climb" of the climber, and his fall, using a simple and unique system based on a servo motor using an encoder capable of characterizing the rotation of the pulley.
  • the servo-control of the motor is implemented in at least two modes depending on whether the climber is climbing or falling.
  • the device makes it possible in particular to manage the climber's fall in a reliable manner, without resorting to a mechanical, electromagnetic or hydraulic clutch, as is the case in most known belay systems, and also offers an assistance function to the climbs. This opens the practice of sport climbing to a wide audience, or allows a fun practice of climbing.
  • a simple device, based on a servo motor, which can correspond to a servomotor, is also particularly well suited to free climbing centers which are developing today.
  • the motor can be slaved so that the torque driving the traction in the assistance mode is only applied when said encoder detects a rotation of the pulley which reflects a reduction in the force applied by the rope on the pulley.
  • a climbing aid is thus obtained, which is only active when the climber is actively climbing a wall or boulder. In other words, it is not a question of continuously and fixed reduction of the weight of the user during his ascent, but of proposing a device which adapts to the climb carried out, for example according to the efforts made. by the climber, or according to the dynamism of this climb.
  • the value of the torque applied by the motor to the pulley in the assistance mode may in particular be a function of the value, rate, or speed of the decrease in the force applied by the rope on the pulley. It can be a function of a predefined device calibration value.
  • the motor can be servo-controlled so that, in the assist mode, the ascent speed, corresponding to the speed of the rope winding on the pulley, is substantially constant.
  • the device thus allows in particular an adaptation to the wishes or to the morphology, in particular to the weight, of the climber.
  • the device can thus be adapted, for example, to a specific training program, for example providing for a climber's progression in his practice by reducing the level of assistance little by little.
  • the device can be adapted to a more playful practice of climbing, by providing a very high level of assistance allowing the user to climb almost effortlessly, to jump from one grip to another, or even from a wall. to another, etc.
  • the motor can be servo-controlled so that in fall mode the torque applied to the pulley essentially ensures a predefined fall speed
  • the motor can be slaved so that in the fall mode the torque applied to the pulley allows the climber to gradually brake before ensuring a substantially constant fall speed.
  • the motor as a controlled device, makes it possible to directly manage a climber's fall situation.
  • the fall speed can be limited to a speed that avoids any risk of injury. It is accepted that a speed lower than 3 m / s, in particular a speed of about 2 m / s, is compatible with a safe descent.
  • the servo-control of the motor can be programmed to ensure dynamic belaying of the climber, more comfortable and safer than sudden braking.
  • the motor can be directly linked to the pulley or can be linked via a synchronous mechanical transmission.
  • no clutch-type device is employed in the invention in its nominal mode of operation.
  • a device of the clutch or mechanical brake type is only implemented, if necessary, in an optional degraded mode implemented for example in the event of a fault in the electrical supply to the device.
  • the motor and the pulley are interconnected so that the motor causes a direct drive of the pulley, or with a gear ratio, in order to apply an assist or resistance torque.
  • the device may further include a disc brake configured to be actuated automatically in the event of an interruption of the power supply to said device.
  • the device can thus, in a degraded operating mode corresponding for example to an electrical power cut to the motor, ensure the safety of the climber in the event of a fall.
  • the disc brake ensuring the safety of the climber in the event of a power failure to the device is engaged in the absence of power supply, and released when the device is powered on.
  • the motor may be of the brushless type and have a rotor carrying a series of permanent magnets and a stator carrying a set of windings.
  • the device may include a mechanical system allowing movement of the automatic reel, in a so-called transverse direction, perpendicular to the general direction of extension of the rope outside the automatic reel, this direction being said to be vertical.
  • the automatic reel is mounted on a rail extending in the transverse direction so that it can be freely translated along said rail, or on an arm pivoting along an axis extending substantially in the vertical direction.
  • a transverse movement of the automatic reel which comprises in particular the pulley, makes it possible to follow the movement of the climber laterally. This increases user comfort, prevents movement of the climber's pendulum in the event of a fall, and makes the device compatible with wide climbing walls.
  • the invention also relates to a fun climbing system comprising a climbing structure, a virtual reality device such as a helmet or glasses, a computer system adapted to project into the virtual reality device an image applied to the structure to be climbed, and a belay device for climbing as described above.
  • a virtual reality device such as a helmet or glasses
  • a computer system adapted to project into the virtual reality device an image applied to the structure to be climbed
  • a belay device for climbing as described above.
  • the invention also relates to a fun climbing system comprising a climbing structure, an augmented reality device, a computer system adapted to project an image on the structure to be climbed, and a belay device for climbing such as: as previously described.
  • a sensor can be configured to determine the position and attitude of a climber using said fun climbing system, so as to vary the image projected in the device. virtual reality or on the structure to be climbed.
  • the device proposed in the invention allowing not only the belaying of a climber but also the climbing assistance makes it possible to envisage a playful use which differs from the current practice of climbing.
  • a child or adult in this environment may feel like they are climbing a tree or building virtually recreated in correspondence with the holds available on a wall or other climbing structure.
  • This fun activity is then carried out effortlessly, or even like a superhero, the belay device according to the invention being able to achieve performances inaccessible to a human. For example, it is possible to climb at high speed, perform jumps from holds to holds, or any other climbing experience with a reduced sensation of gravity.
  • FIG. 1 shows, in a schematic three-dimensional view, a belay device in accordance with an embodiment of the invention
  • FIG. 2 represents, in an exploded three-dimensional view, the device of FIG. 1;
  • FIG. 3 represents, in a schematic view, a particular embodiment of the invention and its environment of use;
  • Figure 4 shows, in a three-dimensional schematic view, another embodiment of the particular invention and its environment of use
  • FIG. 5 shows, in a three-dimensional schematic view, a fun climbing system according to an embodiment of another aspect of the invention.
  • FIG. 1 shows an example of a belay device for climbing according to one embodiment of the invention.
  • This device comprises an automatic winder 1, comprising a housing 2 inside which a rope 3, which may consist of a flat strap, is wound up and unwound as required.
  • the reel comprises a fixing interface 4, adapted to be fixed to a mounting bracket 5.
  • the device comprises the mounting bracket 5, which constitutes a fixed point capable of reliably supporting a force. important, greater than the weight of a climber.
  • connection between the mounting bracket 5 and the attachment interface 4 of the reel 1 is made in the example shown using two bolts 6.
  • the device may be without mounting bracket 5, so as to be fixed at the top of a climbing wall, for example using two carabiners.
  • the device can be configured to allow lateral movement of the reel, with a suitable mounting bracket that can have various configurations.
  • the device is provided with an electrical supply socket 7, allowing the connection of a supply cable 8.
  • the device can be equipped with a programming socket, which can be associated or disconnected from the power supply socket 7.
  • Figure 2 shows an exploded view of the belay device according to the embodiment shown in Figure 1, allowing in particular to see the internal elements of the housing 2 of the reel 1.
  • a pulley 10 allows the winding and unwinding of the rope 3, which here takes the form of a flat strap.
  • a rope guide 1 1 is used to guide the rope 3, in particular for its good winding on the pulley 10.
  • the rope guide is typically a part, for example in plastic material, comprising a slot allowing the guided passage of the flat strap constituting the rope 3.
  • the device comprises an electric motor 12 which comprises a rotor 14 and a stator 13.
  • the operation of the motor is controlled by an electronic control circuit 15.
  • the rotor 14 consists essentially of a ring on an internal face of which permanent magnets 16 are fixed.
  • the permanent magnets 16 are advantageously powerful magnets, for example made of neodymium.
  • the stator 13 is positioned inside the crown of the rotor 14.
  • the stator 13 has a set of windings 17.
  • the rotor and stator form a brushless motor, commonly referred to as "brushless". This type of engine generates high torque, and is very reliable and not subject to wear, in the absence of friction parts.
  • the motor 12, and in particular the rotor 14 is directly linked to the pulley 10, for example by nuts distributed around the perimeter of the pulley 10 and of the rotor 14. Thus, any rotational movement of the rotor 14 is transmitted directly to the pulley 10, and vice versa.
  • the shaft 18 is immobilized in rotation with respect to the pulley 10 by means of a key.
  • An encoder 24 is linked to the shaft 18, and thus makes it possible to characterize the rotation of the pulley 10.
  • the shaft 18 is advantageously mounted on bearings, in particular vis-à-vis the stator 13.
  • bearings in particular vis-à-vis the stator 13.
  • two ball bearings 19 allow free rotation of the shaft (and therefore of the pulley 10 and of the rotor 13) in the shaft. 'reel.
  • the reel further comprises a disc 21, rigidly linked to the pulley 10 by means of spacers 22.
  • the disc 21 constitutes, in cooperation with a caliper 23, a disc brake making it possible to slow down or block the rotation of the pulley 10.
  • This brake can be actuated as a safety device, for example in the event of stopping the supply. of the belay device, for example to slow the rotation of the pulley in the event of a fall of a climber secured by the belay device.
  • the assembly consisting of the motor 12, the frame 9, the pulley 10 and the disc 21, is included between two flanges 22 fixed together through spacers, which are for example distributed around the periphery of the flanges 22.
  • the disc 21 can serve as an encoder wheel which makes it possible, using one or more optical sensors, to characterize the rotation (angle of rotation, and / or speed of rotation) of the pulley 10.
  • the information on the rotation of the pulley 10 makes it possible to determine the speed of winding or unwinding of the rope 3, in particular the linear speed of entry or exit of the rope. rope in the reel housing.
  • the electronic circuit 15 is positioned outside the mechanical part of the system located between the two flanges 22, but could according to other embodiments be located differently, in particular between the flanges 22.
  • braking during a fall of a climber provided by the device is achieved by applying a suitable torque to the pulley by the motor 12.
  • the belay device allows climbing assistance, also by applying torque by the motor to the pulley.
  • the use of a motor makes it possible to precisely and dynamically control the torque applied to the pulley according to various modes of operation of the device and according to the force exerted by the rope 3 on the belay device.
  • the belay device In a fall mode, the belay device must limit the climber's fall speed to a safe speed, that is, a speed at which the climber can land safely on the ground. A speed of 1.8 m / s, or 6 feet per second, is considered suitable.
  • the device can thus offer a fall speed, which can optionally be programmed, of 1 m / s, 1, 8 m / s, 2 m / s, or 3 m / s, these values being given by way of non-limiting examples. .
  • the torque to be applied by the motor depends on the climber using the device as well as on the geometry of the pulley, and in particular on its diameter.
  • a torque is applied applying the rope a force opposite and equal to the force exerted by the climber (typically his weight).
  • the applied torque is modulated to maintain the desired maximum fall speed.
  • the servo motor by dynamic management of the torque applied to the pulley, can also allow dynamic belaying of the climber. Typically, beyond a certain climbed height, which can be determined by the amount of rope 3 wound into the reel from the start of an ascent, it may be more comfortable and safer for the climber not to stop. suddenly fall, but ensure gradual braking until an acceptable fall speed is reached. In the context of traditional belaying, carried out by a belayer located at the bottom of the wall, this is obtained by making a little slack in the rope before slow down the climber's fall. Such behavior can be reproduced automatically, programmed, by the belay device proposed in the invention.
  • a fall situation can be detected by the unwinding of the rope 3, which results in a given direction of rotation of the pulley 10.
  • the acceleration of the rotation of the pulley and / or the torque or the torque variation applied by the rope 3 to the pulley can be determined and used.
  • an automatic reel belay device One of the primary functions of an automatic reel belay device is to allow the rope to be gradually rewound as the climber ascends.
  • the proposed device allows this basic function to be fulfilled without providing any assistance, that is to say without applying a pulling force to the climber or at least without applying a significant pulling force.
  • the servo motor can be programmed to wind the rope with a very low torque applied to the pulley, and or be programmed to stop its winding as soon as the reaction of the rope 3 on the pulley 10 increases.
  • the belay device also makes it possible to provide climbing assistance, in an assistance mode, by pulling the rope 3. Such pulling reduces the climber's apparent weight; and facilitates its ascent.
  • the motor can be controlled, programmed, so as to dynamically adapt the assistance provided, according to various laws or various parameters.
  • the climber may wish assistance in the context of sports training in climbing, for example to modulate the efforts in a training program, to work on his climbing technique without the constraint of significant efforts, or on physically demanding passages or sequences. In these and other cases, permanent pulling on the rope may be bothersome or unwanted.
  • the device makes it possible to apply traction only as assistance to an effort, that is to say to ensure that the assistance is only offered in response to an effort by the climber, and modulated depending on the force detected.
  • the application of traction on the rope by the motor can be limited to situations in which the servo device, via an encoder, detects a rotation of the pulley reflecting a decrease in the force applied by the rope on pulley.
  • the reduction compared to an initial or reference situation, corresponds to the fact that when climbing, the climber applies part of his weight to the climbing holds or more generally of the weight he was exerting on the rope, and therefore realizes an effort tending to hoist it.
  • the force applied by the rope on the pulley being the result of the force exerted by the climber and the reaction of the rope to the force applied by the pulley, it corresponds at all times to the climber's weight minus the part of this weight supported at climbing holds, and can at any time be compared to a predefined value to determine whether the climber is climbing or not.
  • assistance can only be provided when the climber is exerting an effort, just as assist devices of electric bicycles do, by analogy, which only provide assistance when pedaling is detected.
  • the decrease in the force exerted by the rope on the pulley can be described by several parameters, in particular the absolute value of this decrease, by its rate compared to an initial value, or by its speed. These parameters can be determined by observing the rotation of the pulley. These settings can also be combined, one with another or all three, to determine the level of assistance to apply.
  • the level of assistance is advantageously dynamically modulated according to the evolution of one or more of these parameters.
  • assistance can only be implemented when there is a sufficient predefined offset between the force exerted by the rope on the pulley and a reference force is observed.
  • This offset allows the climber to be assisted only after a certain level of effort has been provided. This is to avoid the untimely implementation of assistance.
  • This can also make it possible to define, for example, a constant value of an effort to be produced by the climber, the difference between this value and the force necessary for climbing being provided by the assistance function of the belay device.
  • the assistance offered may also take into account a calibration value.
  • This value can be fixed, by default, or programmed according to the user.
  • the user's weight, or a predefined fraction of the user's weight can be taken as a calibration value.
  • the motor can be slaved so that the climbing speed of the climber is constant.
  • This type of assistance is not very suitable for the practice of sport climbing, but can, in some cases, be adapted to a fun climbing activity.
  • FIG. 3 illustrates a belay device for climbing according to one embodiment of the invention.
  • the reel can be move laterally at the top of the climbing wall 25 to accompany a lateral movement of the climber which is ensured.
  • the transverse direction T is defined as a direction perpendicular to the vertical V, that is to say the direction of application of gravity or the general direction of extension of the belay rope.
  • the transverse direction extends in the general extension plane of the climbing wall considered.
  • the automatic reel 1 is mounted via a mounting bracket 5 fitted on a rail 26 extending in the transverse direction T.
  • the automatic reel moves freely on the rail 26, from so that its movement accompanies the lateral movements of the climber.
  • Figure 4 illustrates a variant of the principle illustrated in Figure 3.
  • the automatic reel 1 offering a climbing assistance function is mounted on a swivel arm 27, which allows its
  • transverse movement Although the movement is not purely transverse, the device can be configured to allow adequate transverse movement, and has the advantage of great simplicity and reliability.
  • Figure 5 illustrates another aspect of the invention, according to which the belay device allowing climbing assistance is employed in a
  • the proposed belay device is particularly suitable for more fun uses than the traditional practice of climbing.
  • the invention thus also relates to a fun climbing system shown in FIG. 5.
  • the device comprises a computer system 28 programmed to apply to a climbing structure 29 (by example a climbing wall) a virtual environment.
  • the virtual environment can be applied by means of a projector 30. This is referred to as augmented reality.
  • the environment can be applied via a virtual reality headset 31, this is called virtual reality.
  • the projector and the virtual reality headset can be used as an alternative or as a complement, for example to concomitantly allow the climber's immersion in the virtual environment and a visualization by spectators of the virtual environment in which the climber is placed.
  • the virtual environment can be of any type, for example a
  • the virtual environments are advantageously created so that the holds of the virtual environment correspond, in position and form, to the real holds of the climbing structure 29.
  • the set may include means to make the virtual environment dynamic, depending on the actions of the climber.
  • sensors are used to determine the position and attitude of the climber. These may be sensors positioned on the climber, and / or one or more cameras associated with image processing software. It is thus possible to vary the environment, projected on the climbing structure 29 or in a virtual reality headset, to adapt it to certain actions of the climber. It is also possible to provide the climber with a virtual reality headset with visual feedback on the position of his own limbs in the virtual environment.
  • a playful climbing system as proposed according to this aspect of the invention makes it possible to offer a new climbing experience, playful or for educational purposes (for example for an adaptation to the sensation of vertigo) or even a completely playful experience: climbing effortlessly in unusual virtual environments, jumping from tree to virtual tree, between virtual buildings, etc., for example like a superhero capable of superhuman physical prowess.
  • the climbing belay device developed in the invention thus provides a simple and safe automatic reel belay device for climbing without a belay device. It makes it possible to achieve, by one and the same means, namely a servo motor using an encoder coupled to the reel pulley, both a belay function in the event of a fall, and a climbing assistance.
  • a servo motor makes it possible to obtain the necessary torque to be applied to the pulley for these two functions, and the modulation of this torque according to various motor servo laws, in order to meet the uses and the purpose of the motor. device in the practice of climbing as a sport, leisure or fun activity.
  • the device is suitable for use in a fun climbing assembly allowing a virtual environment to be applied to a real climbing structure, to offer new experiences and / or fun for the climber.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a belay device for climbing comprising an automatic winder (1) comprising a pulley (10) and a rope (3). The device comprises an electric motor (12) configured so as to apply a torque to the pulley (10) and an encoder coupled to the pulley. The motor is controlled using the encoder according to the rotation of the pulley (10) so as to modulate said torque applied to the pulley according to at least: - an assistance mode in which the torque applied by the servomotor to the pulley (10) drives a pulling of the rope (3) which assists the climber in his climb; and - a fall mode in which the torque applied by the servomotor to the pulley (10) blocks a fall of the climber or slows it to a speed less than 3 m/s. The invention also relates to a climbing game system with virtual or augmented reality using such a belaying device.

Description

Dispositif d’assurage pour l’escalade à assistance Belay device for assisted climbing
La présente invention concerne le domaine de l’escalade en tant qu’activité physique sportive ou de loisir. The present invention relates to the field of climbing as a sport or leisure physical activity.
Elle porte en particulier sur un dispositif de type frein d’assurage ayant des fonctions augmentées comparativement aux dispositifs connus dans l’état de la technique. It relates in particular to a device of the belay brake type having increased functions compared to devices known in the state of the art.
La pratique de l’escalade en tant que pratique sportive se développe actuellement auprès du grand public. Afin de pratiquer cette activité en toute sécurité, des équipements permettant d’assurer le grimpeur de manière simple et efficace, sont développés. The practice of climbing as a sport is currently developing among the general public. In order to practice this activity in complete safety, equipment allowing the climber to be secured in a simple and efficient manner has been developed.
De manière connue, il est courant d’assurer un grimpeur en escalade à la corde « en atelier poulie » également appelé « moulinette » à l’aide d’une corde passant par une poulie installée en haut de la voie ou du bloc escaladé. Un ou deux assureurs ont la responsabilité d’assurer le grimpeur en cas de chute ou le cas échéant lors de sa descente. La corde est introduite dans un frein d’assurage relié à un harnais que porte l’assureur. Le frein d’assurage permet à l’assureur de rendre du mou lors de l’escalade et de freiner voire de bloquer la corde en cas de chute ou de descente du grimpeur. In a known manner, it is common practice to secure a climber in rope climbing "in a pulley workshop" also called a "top rope" using a rope passing through a pulley installed at the top of the route or of the climbing block. One or two insurers are responsible for insuring the climber in the event of a fall or, if necessary, during his descent. The rope is introduced into a belay brake connected to a harness worn by the belayer. The belay brake allows the belayer to release slack when climbing and to brake or even block the rope in the event of a fall or descent of the climber.
D’autres dispositifs connus, appelés enrouleurs automatiques, permettent l’assurage d’un grimpeur. De manière très générale, les enrouleurs automatiques constituent des moyens dits de distribution de corde et servent à protéger un grimpeur contre les chutes en rétractant dans l’enrouleur le jeu présent dans la corde lorsque la corde n’est pas sous charge et en fournissant une force de freinage lorsque la corde est chargée, de sorte que le poids à l’extrémité de la corde est réduit avec un objectif sécuritaire (typiquement, pour empêcher ou freiner une chute). Other known devices, called automatic reels, allow the belay of a climber. Very generally, automatic reels constitute so-called rope distribution means and serve to protect a climber against falls by retracting into the reel the play present in the rope when the rope is not under load and by providing a braking force when the rope is loaded, so that the weight at the end of the rope is reduced with a safe purpose (typically, to prevent or slow down a fall).
Pour fournir la force de freinage, plusieurs systèmes tels qu'un frein à friction ou un mécanisme d'amortissement hydraulique ont été utilisés dans les dispositifs de distribution en corde de type enrouleur automatique. Par ailleurs, les dispositifs connus se distinguent par la présence ou par l’absence d’embrayage pour engager le système de freinage et a contrario le désengager lorsque la corde n'est pas sous charge, les dispositifs employant un dispositif qui ne requière par d’embrayage pouvant se révéler plus sûrs. To provide the braking force, several systems such as a friction brake or a hydraulic damping mechanism have been used in the automatic reel type rope distribution devices. Furthermore, the known devices are distinguished by the presence or by the absence of a clutch to engage the braking system and conversely to disengage it when the rope is not under load, the devices employing a device which does not require clutch may prove to be safer.
Par exemple, le document US2014048639 divulgue un enrouleur automatique combinant un ressort de rappel de la corde et un système de freinage sans contact à courant de Foucault, fonctionnant sur le principe que lorsqu'un élément conducteur électrique passe à travers un champ magnétique (ou inversement), le mouvement relatif induit une circulation de courants électriques dans le conducteur, qui à leur tour induisent un champ magnétique qui s’oppose au champ magnétique qui est appliqué. For example, document US2014048639 discloses an automatic reel combining a rope return spring and a braking system contactless eddy current, operating on the principle that when an electrically conductive element passes through a magnetic field (or vice versa), the relative motion induces a flow of electric currents in the conductor, which in turn induce a magnetic field which opposes the magnetic field which is applied.
Ce type de dispositif est simple, efficace et sûr. Néanmoins, dans le cadre du développement de l’escalade en tant qu’activité physique accessible à de nombreux publics, ou en tant que loisir ludique, la Demanderesse a découvert qu’il pouvait être avantageux de proposer un dispositif d’assurage automatique offrant de nouvelles fonctions. Ainsi, l’invention porte sur un dispositif d’assurage pour l’escalade This type of device is simple, effective and safe. Nevertheless, in the context of the development of climbing as a physical activity accessible to many audiences, or as a fun leisure activity, the Applicant has discovered that it could be advantageous to propose an automatic belay device offering new functions. Thus, the invention relates to a belay device for climbing
comportant un enrouleur automatique comportant une poulie et une corde. Le dispositif est configuré de sorte que la corde est enroulée ou déroulée selon l’évolution d’un grimpeur assuré par ledit dispositif d’assurage. Le dispositif d’assurage comporte un moteur électrique configuré de sorte à pouvoir appliquer un couple à la poulie et un encodeur accouplé à la poulie, le moteur étant asservi par un circuit électronique de commande à l’aide de l’encodeur en fonction de la rotation de la poulie de sorte à moduler ledit couple appliqué à la poulie selon au moins : comprising an automatic reel comprising a pulley and a rope. The device is configured so that the rope is wound or unwound according to the progress of a climber provided by said belay device. The belay device comprises an electric motor configured so as to be able to apply a torque to the pulley and an encoder coupled to the pulley, the motor being controlled by an electronic control circuit using the encoder as a function of the rotation of the pulley so as to modulate said torque applied to the pulley according to at least:
- un mode d’assistance dans lequel le couple appliqué par le moteur à la poulie entraîne une traction de la corde qui assiste le grimpeur dans son escalade ; et - un mode de chute dans lequel le couple appliqué par le moteur à la poulie bloque une chute du grimpeur ou la ralentit pour la maintenir à une vitesse inférieure à 3 m/s. - an assistance mode in which the torque applied by the motor to the pulley pulls the rope which assists the climber in his climb; and - a fall mode in which the torque applied by the motor to the pulley blocks a fall by the climber or slows it down to maintain it at a speed less than 3 m / s.
Le dispositif ainsi proposé dans l’invention permet d’assurer un grimpeur, tout en offrant une fonction d’assistance. En particulier, le dispositif permet de gérer tant la montée ou « grimpe » du grimpeur, que sa chute, à l’aide d’un système simple et unique fondé sur un moteur asservi à l’aide d’un encodeur capable de caractériser la rotation de la poulie. L’asservissement du moteur est mis en oeuvre selon au moins deux modes selon que le grimpeur réalise son escalade ou chute. Le dispositif permet en particulier de gérer la chute du grimpeur de manière fiable, sans recourir à un embrayage mécanique, électromagnétique ou hydraulique, comme cela est le cas dans la plupart des systèmes d’assurage connus, et offre de surcroît une fonction d’assistance à la grimpe. Cela ouvre la pratique de l’escalade sportive à un large public, ou permet une pratique ludique de l’escalade. Un dispositif simple, fondé sur un moteur asservi, pouvant correspondre à un servomoteur, est en outre particulièrement bien adapté aux centres d’escalade libre qui se développent de nos jours. Le moteur peut être asservi de sorte que le couple entraînant la traction dans le mode d’assistance n’est appliqué que lorsque ledit encodeur détecte une rotation de la poulie qui traduit une diminution de la force appliquée par la corde sur la poulie. The device thus proposed in the invention makes it possible to ensure a climber, while offering an assistance function. In particular, the device makes it possible to manage both the climb or "climb" of the climber, and his fall, using a simple and unique system based on a servo motor using an encoder capable of characterizing the rotation of the pulley. The servo-control of the motor is implemented in at least two modes depending on whether the climber is climbing or falling. The device makes it possible in particular to manage the climber's fall in a reliable manner, without resorting to a mechanical, electromagnetic or hydraulic clutch, as is the case in most known belay systems, and also offers an assistance function to the climbs. This opens the practice of sport climbing to a wide audience, or allows a fun practice of climbing. A simple device, based on a servo motor, which can correspond to a servomotor, is also particularly well suited to free climbing centers which are developing today. The motor can be slaved so that the torque driving the traction in the assistance mode is only applied when said encoder detects a rotation of the pulley which reflects a reduction in the force applied by the rope on the pulley.
Une aide à l’escalade est ainsi obtenue, qui n’est active que lorsque le grimpeur escalade activement une paroi ou un bloc. En d’autres termes, il ne s’agit pas de diminuer de manière continue et fixe le poids de l’utilisateur lors de sa montée, mais de proposer un dispositif qui s’adapte à la montée réalisée, par exemple selon les efforts réalisés par le grimpeur, ou selon le dynamisme de cette montée. A climbing aid is thus obtained, which is only active when the climber is actively climbing a wall or boulder. In other words, it is not a question of continuously and fixed reduction of the weight of the user during his ascent, but of proposing a device which adapts to the climb carried out, for example according to the efforts made. by the climber, or according to the dynamism of this climb.
Bien évidemment, une assistance permanente n’est pas exclue de l’invention, et peut être appliquée dans certains modes de réalisation. Of course, permanent assistance is not excluded from the invention, and may be applied in some embodiments.
La valeur du couple appliqué par le moteur à la poulie dans le mode d’assistance peut notamment être fonction de la valeur, du taux, ou de la vitesse de la diminution de la force appliquée par la corde sur la poulie. Elle peut être fonction d’une valeur de calibration du dispositif prédéfinie. The value of the torque applied by the motor to the pulley in the assistance mode may in particular be a function of the value, rate, or speed of the decrease in the force applied by the rope on the pulley. It can be a function of a predefined device calibration value.
Le moteur peut être asservi de sorte que, dans le mode d’assistance, la vitesse de montée, correspondant à la vitesse d’enroulement de la corde sur la poulie est sensiblement constante. The motor can be servo-controlled so that, in the assist mode, the ascent speed, corresponding to the speed of the rope winding on the pulley, is substantially constant.
Le dispositif permet ainsi notamment une adaptation aux souhaits ou à la morphologie, notamment au poids, du grimpeur. Le dispositif peut ainsi être adapté par exemple à un programme d’entrainement spécifique, prévoyant par exemple une progression du grimpeur dans sa pratique en réduisant le niveau d’assistance petit à petit. Le dispositif peut être adapté à une pratique plus ludique de l’escalade, en prévoyant un niveau d’assistance très important permettant à l’utilisateur de monter presque sans effort, de sauter d’une prise à une autre, voire d’une paroi à une autre, etc. The device thus allows in particular an adaptation to the wishes or to the morphology, in particular to the weight, of the climber. The device can thus be adapted, for example, to a specific training program, for example providing for a climber's progression in his practice by reducing the level of assistance little by little. The device can be adapted to a more playful practice of climbing, by providing a very high level of assistance allowing the user to climb almost effortlessly, to jump from one grip to another, or even from a wall. to another, etc.
Le moteur peut être asservi de sorte que dans le mode de chute le couple appliqué à la poulie assure essentiellement une vitesse de chute prédéfinie The motor can be servo-controlled so that in fall mode the torque applied to the pulley essentially ensures a predefined fall speed
sensiblement constante, indépendamment de la force appliquée par la corde (3) sur la poulie. substantially constant, regardless of the force applied by the rope (3) on the pulley.
Le moteur peut être asservi de sorte que dans le mode de chute le couple appliqué à la poulie permet un freinage progressif du grimpeur avant d’assurer une vitesse de chute sensiblement constante. The motor can be slaved so that in the fall mode the torque applied to the pulley allows the climber to gradually brake before ensuring a substantially constant fall speed.
Le moteur, en tant que dispositif asservi, permet de gérer directement une situation de chute du grimpeur. En particulier, la vitesse de chute peut être limitée à une vitesse évitant tout risque de blessure. Il est admis qu’une vitesse inférieure à 3 m/s, notamment une vitesse d’environ 2 m/s, est compatible d’une descente sans risque. En outre, dans certains modes de réalisation de l’invention, l’asservissement du moteur peut être programmé pour assurer un assurage dynamique du grimpeur, plus confortable et plus sûr qu’un freinage soudain. The motor, as a controlled device, makes it possible to directly manage a climber's fall situation. In particular, the fall speed can be limited to a speed that avoids any risk of injury. It is accepted that a speed lower than 3 m / s, in particular a speed of about 2 m / s, is compatible with a safe descent. In addition, in certain embodiments of the invention, the servo-control of the motor can be programmed to ensure dynamic belaying of the climber, more comfortable and safer than sudden braking.
Le moteur peut être directement lié à la poulie ou peut être lié par l’intermédiaire d’une transmission mécanique synchrone. The motor can be directly linked to the pulley or can be linked via a synchronous mechanical transmission.
Ainsi, aucun dispositif de type embrayage n’est employé dans l’invention dans son mode de fonctionnement nominal. Un dispositif de type embrayage ou frein mécanique n’est mis en oeuvre, le cas échéant, que dans un mode dégradé optionnel mis en oeuvre par exemple en cas de défaut d’alimentation électrique du dispositif. Le moteur et la poulie sont reliés entre eux de sorte que le moteur provoque un entrainement direct de la poulie, ou avec un rapport de démultiplication, afin d’y appliquer un couple d’assistance ou de résistance. Thus, no clutch-type device is employed in the invention in its nominal mode of operation. A device of the clutch or mechanical brake type is only implemented, if necessary, in an optional degraded mode implemented for example in the event of a fault in the electrical supply to the device. The motor and the pulley are interconnected so that the motor causes a direct drive of the pulley, or with a gear ratio, in order to apply an assist or resistance torque.
Le dispositif peut comporter en outre un frein à disque configuré pour être actionné automatiquement en cas de coupure d’alimentation électrique dudit dispositif. The device may further include a disc brake configured to be actuated automatically in the event of an interruption of the power supply to said device.
Par sa seule configuration, le dispositif peut ainsi, dans un mode de fonctionnement dégradé correspondant par exemple à une coupure d’alimentation électrique du moteur, assurer la sécurité du grimpeur en cas de chute. Le frein à disque assurant la sécurité du grimpeur en cas de défaut d’alimentation électrique du dispositif est engagé en l’absence d’alimentation électrique, et relâché lorsque le dispositif est sous tension. By its configuration alone, the device can thus, in a degraded operating mode corresponding for example to an electrical power cut to the motor, ensure the safety of the climber in the event of a fall. The disc brake ensuring the safety of the climber in the event of a power failure to the device is engaged in the absence of power supply, and released when the device is powered on.
Le moteur peut être du type sans balai et comporter un rotor portant une série d’aimants permanents et un stator portant un ensemble de bobinages. The motor may be of the brushless type and have a rotor carrying a series of permanent magnets and a stator carrying a set of windings.
Un tel moteur est fiable, peu sujet à l’usure, et permet l’obtention d’un couple mécanique important. Such an engine is reliable, little subject to wear, and allows to obtain a high mechanical torque.
Le dispositif peut comporter un système mécanique permettant un déplacement de l’enrouleur automatique, dans une direction dite transversale, perpendiculaire à la direction générale d’extension de la corde en dehors de l’enrouleur automatique, cette direction étant dite verticale. Par exemple, l’enrouleur automatique est monté sur un rail s’étendant dans la direction transversale de sorte à pouvoir être translaté librement le long dudit rail, ou sur un bras pivotant selon un axe s’étendant sensiblement selon la direction verticale. The device may include a mechanical system allowing movement of the automatic reel, in a so-called transverse direction, perpendicular to the general direction of extension of the rope outside the automatic reel, this direction being said to be vertical. For example, the automatic reel is mounted on a rail extending in the transverse direction so that it can be freely translated along said rail, or on an arm pivoting along an axis extending substantially in the vertical direction.
Un déplacement transversal de l’enrouleur automatique, qui comporte en particulier la poulie, permet de suivre latéralement le mouvement du grimpeur. Cela augmente le confort d’utilisation, évite un mouvement du balancier du grimpeur en cas de chute, et rend le dispositif compatible de murs d’escalade de grande largeur. A transverse movement of the automatic reel, which comprises in particular the pulley, makes it possible to follow the movement of the climber laterally. This increases user comfort, prevents movement of the climber's pendulum in the event of a fall, and makes the device compatible with wide climbing walls.
L’invention porte également sur un système d’escalade ludique comportant une structure d’escalade, un dispositif de réalité virtuelle tel qu’un casque ou des lunettes, un système informatique adapté à projeter dans le dispositif de réalité virtuelle une image appliquée à la structure à escalader, et un dispositif d’assurage pour l’escalade tel que décrit précédemment. The invention also relates to a fun climbing system comprising a climbing structure, a virtual reality device such as a helmet or glasses, a computer system adapted to project into the virtual reality device an image applied to the structure to be climbed, and a belay device for climbing as described above.
L’invention porte aussi sur un système d’escalade ludique comportant une structure d’escalade, un dispositif de réalité augmentée, un système informatique adapté à projeter sur la structure à escalader une image, et un dispositif d’assurage pour l’escalade tel que décrit précédemment. The invention also relates to a fun climbing system comprising a climbing structure, an augmented reality device, a computer system adapted to project an image on the structure to be climbed, and a belay device for climbing such as: as previously described.
Dans un système d’escalade ludique conforme à l’invention, un capteur peut être configuré pour déterminer la position et l’attitude d’un grimpeur utilisant ledit système d’escalade ludique, de sorte à faire varier l’image projetée dans le dispositif de réalité virtuelle ou sur la structure à escalader. In a fun climbing system according to the invention, a sensor can be configured to determine the position and attitude of a climber using said fun climbing system, so as to vary the image projected in the device. virtual reality or on the structure to be climbed.
Le dispositif proposé dans l’invention permettant non seulement l’assurage d’un grimpeur mais aussi l’assistance à l’escalade permet d’envisager un usage ludique qui diffère de la pratique courante de l’escalade. En couplant le dispositif à un environnement virtuel, qu’il soit généré grâce à un dispositif de réalité virtuelle ou un dispositif de réalité augmentée, une expérience inédite peut être proposée à The device proposed in the invention allowing not only the belaying of a climber but also the climbing assistance makes it possible to envisage a playful use which differs from the current practice of climbing. By coupling the device to a virtual environment, whether it is generated using a virtual reality device or an augmented reality device, a unique experience can be offered to
l’utilisateur. Par exemple, un enfant ou un adulte évoluant dans cet environnement peut avoir l’impression de grimper à un arbre ou sur un immeuble recréé virtuellement en correspondance avec les prises disponibles sur un mur ou une autre structure d’escalade. Cette activité ludique est alors réalisée sans effort, voire même à la manière d’un super-héros, le dispositif d’assurage selon l’invention pouvant permettre la réalisation de performances inaccessibles à un humain. Il est possible par exemple de grimper à grande vitesse, de réaliser des sauts de prises en prises, ou toute autre expérience d’escalade avec une sensation de gravité réduite. the user. For example, a child or adult in this environment may feel like they are climbing a tree or building virtually recreated in correspondence with the holds available on a wall or other climbing structure. This fun activity is then carried out effortlessly, or even like a superhero, the belay device according to the invention being able to achieve performances inaccessible to a human. For example, it is possible to climb at high speed, perform jumps from holds to holds, or any other climbing experience with a reduced sensation of gravity.
D'autres particularités et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront encore dans la description ci-après. Other features and advantages of the invention will appear further in the description below.
Aux dessins annexés, donnés à titre d'exemples non limitatifs : la figure 1 représente, selon une vue tridimensionnelle schématique, un dispositif d’assurage conforme à un mode de réalisation de l’invention ; In the accompanying drawings, given by way of non-limiting examples: FIG. 1 shows, in a schematic three-dimensional view, a belay device in accordance with an embodiment of the invention;
la figure 2 représente, selon une vue tridimensionnelle en éclaté, le dispositif de la figure 1 ; la figure 3 représente, selon une vue schématique, un mode de réalisation de l’invention particulier et son environnement d’utilisation ; FIG. 2 represents, in an exploded three-dimensional view, the device of FIG. 1; FIG. 3 represents, in a schematic view, a particular embodiment of the invention and its environment of use;
la figure 4 représente, selon une vue schématique en trois dimensions, un autre mode de réalisation de l’invention particulier et son environnement d’utilisation ; Figure 4 shows, in a three-dimensional schematic view, another embodiment of the particular invention and its environment of use;
la figure 5 représente, selon une vue schématique en trois dimensions, un système d’escalade ludique conforme à un mode de réalisation d’un autre aspect de l’invention. FIG. 5 shows, in a three-dimensional schematic view, a fun climbing system according to an embodiment of another aspect of the invention.
La figure 1 représente un exemple de dispositif d’assurage pour l’escalade conforme à un mode de réalisation de l’invention. Ce dispositif comporte un enrouleur automatique 1 , comportant un boîtier 2 à l’intérieur duquel une corde 3, pouvant être constituée d’une sangle plate, est enroulée et déroulée selon les besoins. Figure 1 shows an example of a belay device for climbing according to one embodiment of the invention. This device comprises an automatic winder 1, comprising a housing 2 inside which a rope 3, which may consist of a flat strap, is wound up and unwound as required.
L’enrouleur comporte une interface de fixation 4, adaptée à être fixée à un support de montage 5. Dans l’exemple ici représenté, le dispositif comporte le support de montage 5, qui constitue un point fixe capable de supporter de manière fiable une force importante, supérieure au poids d’un grimpeur. The reel comprises a fixing interface 4, adapted to be fixed to a mounting bracket 5. In the example shown here, the device comprises the mounting bracket 5, which constitutes a fixed point capable of reliably supporting a force. important, greater than the weight of a climber.
La liaison entre le support de montage 5 et l’interface de fixation 4 de l’enrouleur 1 est réalisée dans l’exemple représenté à l’aide de deux boulons 6. The connection between the mounting bracket 5 and the attachment interface 4 of the reel 1 is made in the example shown using two bolts 6.
D’autres moyens de liaison mécanique, par exemple des tirants ou des goujons, sont bien évidemment envisageables. Par exemple, le dispositif peut être dépourvu de support de montage 5, de sorte à être fixé en haut d’une paroi d’escalade par exemple à l’aide de deux mousquetons. Other means of mechanical connection, for example tie rods or studs, are obviously possible. For example, the device may be without mounting bracket 5, so as to be fixed at the top of a climbing wall, for example using two carabiners.
En outre, tel que décrit plus en détail en référence aux figures 3 et 4, le dispositif peut être configuré pour permettre un mouvement latéral de l’enrouleur, grâce à un support de montage adapté pouvant présenter diverses configurations. In addition, as described in more detail with reference to Figures 3 and 4, the device can be configured to allow lateral movement of the reel, with a suitable mounting bracket that can have various configurations.
Le dispositif est doté d’une prise d’alimentation électrique 7, permettant le branchement d’un câble d’alimentation 8. Selon certaines variantes de l’invention, le dispositif peut être équipé d’une prise de programmation, pouvant être associée ou dissociée de la prise d’alimentation électrique 7. The device is provided with an electrical supply socket 7, allowing the connection of a supply cable 8. According to certain variants of the invention, the device can be equipped with a programming socket, which can be associated or disconnected from the power supply socket 7.
La figure 2 représente une vue en éclaté du dispositif d’assurage selon le mode de réalisation représenté à la figure 1 , permettant en particulier de voir les éléments internes au boîtier 2 de l’enrouleur 1. Figure 2 shows an exploded view of the belay device according to the embodiment shown in Figure 1, allowing in particular to see the internal elements of the housing 2 of the reel 1.
Une armature 9, qui dans l’exemple ici représenté comporte l’interface de fixation 4, constitue la structure principale du dispositif d’assurage. Une poulie 10 permet l’enroulage et le déroulage de la corde 3, qui prend ici la forme d’une sangle plate. Un guide de corde 1 1 permet de guider la corde 3, notamment pour son bon enroulage sur la poulie 10. Le guide de corde est typiquement une pièce, par exemple en matériau plastique, comportant une fente permettant le passage guidé de la sangle plate constituant la corde 3. A frame 9, which in the example shown here comprises the fixing interface 4, constitutes the main structure of the belay device. A pulley 10 allows the winding and unwinding of the rope 3, which here takes the form of a flat strap. A rope guide 1 1 is used to guide the rope 3, in particular for its good winding on the pulley 10. The rope guide is typically a part, for example in plastic material, comprising a slot allowing the guided passage of the flat strap constituting the rope 3.
Le dispositif comporte un moteur 12 électrique qui comporte un rotor 14 et un stator 13. Le fonctionnement du moteur est asservi par un circuit électronique de commande 15. The device comprises an electric motor 12 which comprises a rotor 14 and a stator 13. The operation of the motor is controlled by an electronic control circuit 15.
Le rotor 14 consiste essentiellement en une couronne sur une face interne de laquelle sont fixés des aimants permanents 16. Les aimants permanents 16 sont avantageusement des aimants puissants, par exemple en néodyme. Le stator 13 est positionné à l’intérieur de la couronne du rotor 14. Le stator 13 comporte un ensemble de bobinages 17. Le rotor et le stator forment un moteur sans balai, couramment désigné par le terme anglophone « brushless ». Ce type de moteur permet de générer un couple important, et est très fiable et peu sujet à l’usure, en l’absence de pièces en frottement. Le moteur 12, et en particulier le rotor 14, est directement lié à la poulie 10 par exemple par des écrous repartis sur du périmètre de la poulie 10 et du rotor 14. Ainsi, tout mouvement de rotation du rotor 14 est transmis directement à la poulie 10, et inversement. The rotor 14 consists essentially of a ring on an internal face of which permanent magnets 16 are fixed. The permanent magnets 16 are advantageously powerful magnets, for example made of neodymium. The stator 13 is positioned inside the crown of the rotor 14. The stator 13 has a set of windings 17. The rotor and stator form a brushless motor, commonly referred to as "brushless". This type of engine generates high torque, and is very reliable and not subject to wear, in the absence of friction parts. The motor 12, and in particular the rotor 14, is directly linked to the pulley 10, for example by nuts distributed around the perimeter of the pulley 10 and of the rotor 14. Thus, any rotational movement of the rotor 14 is transmitted directly to the pulley 10, and vice versa.
L’arbre 18 est immobilisé en rotation par rapport à la poulie 10 par le biais d’une clavette. Un encodeur 24 est lié à l’arbre 18, et permet ainsi de caractériser la rotation de la poulie 10. The shaft 18 is immobilized in rotation with respect to the pulley 10 by means of a key. An encoder 24 is linked to the shaft 18, and thus makes it possible to characterize the rotation of the pulley 10.
L’arbre 18 est avantageusement monté sur roulements, notamment vis-à- vis du stator 13. Par exemple, deux roulements à billes 19 permettent la libre rotation de l’arbre (et donc de la poulie 10 et du rotor 13) dans l’enrouleur. The shaft 18 is advantageously mounted on bearings, in particular vis-à-vis the stator 13. For example, two ball bearings 19 allow free rotation of the shaft (and therefore of the pulley 10 and of the rotor 13) in the shaft. 'reel.
L’enrouleur comporte en outre un disque 21 , lié rigidement à la poulie 10 par le biais d’entretoises 22. The reel further comprises a disc 21, rigidly linked to the pulley 10 by means of spacers 22.
Le disque 21 constitue, en coopération avec un étrier 23, un frein à disque permettant de freiner ou de bloquer la rotation de la poulie 10. Ce frein peut être actionné en tant que sécurité, par exemple en cas d’arrêt de l’alimentation électrique du dispositif d’assurage, par exemple pour freiner la rotation de la poulie en cas de chute d’un grimpeur assuré par le dispositif d’assurage. The disc 21 constitutes, in cooperation with a caliper 23, a disc brake making it possible to slow down or block the rotation of the pulley 10. This brake can be actuated as a safety device, for example in the event of stopping the supply. of the belay device, for example to slow the rotation of the pulley in the event of a fall of a climber secured by the belay device.
L’ensemble constitué par le moteur 12, l’armature 9, la poulie 10 et le disque 21 , est inclus entre deux flasques 22 fixés entre eux au travers d’entretoises, qui sont par exemple réparties à la périphérie des flasques 22. The assembly consisting of the motor 12, the frame 9, the pulley 10 and the disc 21, is included between two flanges 22 fixed together through spacers, which are for example distributed around the periphery of the flanges 22.
Dans une variante, le disque 21 peut servir de roue codeuse qui permet, à l’aide d’un ou plusieurs capteurs optiques, de caractériser la rotation (angle de rotation, et/ou vitesse de rotation) de la poulie 10. Les informations sur la rotation de la poulie 10 permettent de déterminer la vitesse d’enroulement ou de déroulement de la corde 3, en particulier la vitesse linéaire d’entrée ou de sortie de la corde dans le boîtier de l’enrouleur. In a variant, the disc 21 can serve as an encoder wheel which makes it possible, using one or more optical sensors, to characterize the rotation (angle of rotation, and / or speed of rotation) of the pulley 10. The information on the rotation of the pulley 10 makes it possible to determine the speed of winding or unwinding of the rope 3, in particular the linear speed of entry or exit of the rope. rope in the reel housing.
Le circuit électronique 15 est positionné à l’extérieur de la partie mécanique du système située entre les deux flasques 22, mais pourrait selon d’autres modes de réalisation être situé différemment, notamment entre les flasques 22. The electronic circuit 15 is positioned outside the mechanical part of the system located between the two flanges 22, but could according to other embodiments be located differently, in particular between the flanges 22.
Au contraire des dispositifs d’assurage connus, le freinage lors d’une chute d’un grimpeur assuré par le dispositif est réalisé par application d’un couple adapté sur la poulie par le moteur 12. En outre, le dispositif d’assurage permet une assistance à l’escalade, également par application d’un couple par le moteur sur la poulie. Unlike known belay devices, braking during a fall of a climber provided by the device is achieved by applying a suitable torque to the pulley by the motor 12. In addition, the belay device allows climbing assistance, also by applying torque by the motor to the pulley.
L’emploi d’un moteur permet d’asservir précisément, et de manière dynamique, le couple appliqué à la poulie selon divers modes de fonctionnement du dispositif et selon la force exercée par la corde 3 sur le dispositif d’assurage. The use of a motor makes it possible to precisely and dynamically control the torque applied to the pulley according to various modes of operation of the device and according to the force exerted by the rope 3 on the belay device.
Dans un mode de chute, le dispositif d’assurage doit limiter la vitesse de chute du grimpeur à une vitesse sûre, c’est-à-dire une vitesse à laquelle le grimpeur peut se réceptionner sans danger au sol. Une vitesse de 1 ,8 m/s, soit 6 pieds par seconde, est considérée adaptée. Le dispositif peut ainsi proposer une vitesse de chute, pouvant optionnellement être programmée, de 1 m/s, 1 ,8 m/s, 2 m/s, ou 3 m/s, ces valeurs étant données à titre d’exemples non limitatifs. In a fall mode, the belay device must limit the climber's fall speed to a safe speed, that is, a speed at which the climber can land safely on the ground. A speed of 1.8 m / s, or 6 feet per second, is considered suitable. The device can thus offer a fall speed, which can optionally be programmed, of 1 m / s, 1, 8 m / s, 2 m / s, or 3 m / s, these values being given by way of non-limiting examples. .
Pour ce mode de chute, le couple à appliquer par le moteur dépend du grimpeur utilisant le dispositif ainsi que de la géométrie de la poulie, et en particulier de son diamètre. Pour un blocage de la chute, il est appliqué un couple appliquant la corde une force opposée et égale à la force exercée par le grimpeur (typiquement son poids). Pour une vitesse de chute donnée, le couple appliqué est modulé pour maintenir la vitesse de chute maximale souhaitée. For this fall mode, the torque to be applied by the motor depends on the climber using the device as well as on the geometry of the pulley, and in particular on its diameter. For a fall blocking, a torque is applied applying the rope a force opposite and equal to the force exerted by the climber (typically his weight). For a given fall speed, the applied torque is modulated to maintain the desired maximum fall speed.
Le moteur asservi, par une gestion dynamique du couple appliqué à la poulie, peut également permettre un assurage dynamique du grimpeur. Typiquement, au-delà d’une certaine hauteur escaladée, qui peut être déterminée par la quantité de corde 3 enroulée dans l’enrouleur depuis le début d’une ascension, il peut être plus confortable et plus sûr pour le grimpeur de ne pas stopper soudainement sa chute, mais d’assurer un freinage progressif jusqu’à l’atteinte d’une vitesse de chute acceptable. Dans le cadre d’un assurage traditionnel, réalisé par un assureur situé en bas de la paroi, cela est obtenu en rendant un peu de mou dans la corde avant de freiner la chute du grimpeur. Un tel comportement peut être reproduit de manière automatique, programmée, par le dispositif d’assurage proposé dans l’invention. The servo motor, by dynamic management of the torque applied to the pulley, can also allow dynamic belaying of the climber. Typically, beyond a certain climbed height, which can be determined by the amount of rope 3 wound into the reel from the start of an ascent, it may be more comfortable and safer for the climber not to stop. suddenly fall, but ensure gradual braking until an acceptable fall speed is reached. In the context of traditional belaying, carried out by a belayer located at the bottom of the wall, this is obtained by making a little slack in the rope before slow down the climber's fall. Such behavior can be reproduced automatically, programmed, by the belay device proposed in the invention.
Une situation de chute peut être détectée par le déroulement de la corde 3, qui se traduit par un sens de rotation donné de la poulie 10. En alternative, ou en complément à ce paramètre, l’accélération de la rotation de la poulie et/ou le couple ou la variation de couple appliquée par la corde 3 sur la poulie peuvent être déterminés et employés. A fall situation can be detected by the unwinding of the rope 3, which results in a given direction of rotation of the pulley 10. As an alternative, or in addition to this parameter, the acceleration of the rotation of the pulley and / or the torque or the torque variation applied by the rope 3 to the pulley can be determined and used.
Une des fonctions premières d’un dispositif d’assurage à enrouleur automatique est de permettre l’enroulement progressif de la corde lors de la montée du grimpeur. Le dispositif proposé permet de remplir cette fonction de base, sans procurer d’assistance, c’est-à-dire sans appliquer au grimpeur une force de traction ou à tout le moins sans lui appliquer une force de traction significative. Typiquement, le moteur asservi peut être programmé pour enrouler la corde avec un couple très faible appliqué à la poulie, et ou être programmer pour cesser son enroulement dès que la réaction de la corde 3 sur la poulie 10 augmente. One of the primary functions of an automatic reel belay device is to allow the rope to be gradually rewound as the climber ascends. The proposed device allows this basic function to be fulfilled without providing any assistance, that is to say without applying a pulling force to the climber or at least without applying a significant pulling force. Typically, the servo motor can be programmed to wind the rope with a very low torque applied to the pulley, and or be programmed to stop its winding as soon as the reaction of the rope 3 on the pulley 10 increases.
Le dispositif d’assurage permet également de fournir une assistance à l’escalade, dans un mode d’assistance, par une traction sur la corde 3. Une telle traction diminue pour le grimpeur son poids apparent ; et facilite son ascension. Le moteur peut être asservi, programmé, de sorte à adapter dynamiquement l’aide fournie, selon diverses lois ou divers paramètres. The belay device also makes it possible to provide climbing assistance, in an assistance mode, by pulling the rope 3. Such pulling reduces the climber's apparent weight; and facilitates its ascent. The motor can be controlled, programmed, so as to dynamically adapt the assistance provided, according to various laws or various parameters.
Le grimpeur peut souhaiter une assistance dans le cadre d’un entrainement sportif à l’escalade, par exemple pour moduler les efforts dans un programme d’entrainement, pour travailler sa technique d’escalade sans la contrainte d’efforts importants, ou sur des passages ou enchaînement exigeants physiquement. Dans ces cas et d’autres, une traction permanente sur la corde peut se révéler gênante ou non souhaitée. Le dispositif permet de n’appliquer une traction qu’en tant qu’assistance à un effort, c’est-à-dire de faire en sorte que l’assistance ne soit proposée qu’en réponse à un effort du grimpeur, et modulée selon l’effort détecté. The climber may wish assistance in the context of sports training in climbing, for example to modulate the efforts in a training program, to work on his climbing technique without the constraint of significant efforts, or on physically demanding passages or sequences. In these and other cases, permanent pulling on the rope may be bothersome or unwanted. The device makes it possible to apply traction only as assistance to an effort, that is to say to ensure that the assistance is only offered in response to an effort by the climber, and modulated depending on the force detected.
Par exemple, l’application d’une traction sur la corde par le moteur peut être limitée aux situations dans lesquelles le dispositif d’asservissement, via un encodeur, détecte une rotation de la poulie traduisant une diminution de la force appliquée par la corde sur la poulie. La diminution, par rapport à une situation initiale ou de référence, correspond au fait qu’en escaladant, le grimpeur applique sur les prises d’escalade une partie de son poids ou plus généralement du poids qu’il exerçait sur corde, et réalise donc un effort tendant à le hisser. La force appliquée par la corde sur la poulie étant la résultante de la force exercée par le grimpeur et de la réaction de la corde à la force que lui applique la poulie, elle correspond à tout instant au poids du grimpeur moins la part de ce poids supportée au niveau des prises d’escalades, et peut à tout instant être comparée à une valeur prédéfinie pour déterminer si le grimpeur est en train d’escalader ou non. Ainsi, l’assistance peut n’être fournie que lorsque le grimpeur produit un effort, tout comme le font, par analogie, les dispositifs d’assistance des vélos électriques qui ne produisent une aide que lorsqu’un pédalage est détecté. For example, the application of traction on the rope by the motor can be limited to situations in which the servo device, via an encoder, detects a rotation of the pulley reflecting a decrease in the force applied by the rope on pulley. The reduction, compared to an initial or reference situation, corresponds to the fact that when climbing, the climber applies part of his weight to the climbing holds or more generally of the weight he was exerting on the rope, and therefore realizes an effort tending to hoist it. The force applied by the rope on the pulley being the result of the force exerted by the climber and the reaction of the rope to the force applied by the pulley, it corresponds at all times to the climber's weight minus the part of this weight supported at climbing holds, and can at any time be compared to a predefined value to determine whether the climber is climbing or not. Thus, assistance can only be provided when the climber is exerting an effort, just as assist devices of electric bicycles do, by analogy, which only provide assistance when pedaling is detected.
La diminution de la force exercée par la corde sur la poulie peut être décrite par plusieurs paramètres, notamment la valeur absolue de cette diminution, par son taux comparativement à une valeur initiale, ou par sa vitesse. Ces paramètres peuvent être déterminés par l’observation de la rotation de la poulie. Ces paramètres peuvent en outre être combinés, l’un avec un autre ou les trois, pour déterminer le niveau d’assistance à appliquer. Le niveau d’assistance est avantageusement modulé dynamiquement en fonction de l’évolution d’un ou plusieurs de ces paramètres. The decrease in the force exerted by the rope on the pulley can be described by several parameters, in particular the absolute value of this decrease, by its rate compared to an initial value, or by its speed. These parameters can be determined by observing the rotation of the pulley. These settings can also be combined, one with another or all three, to determine the level of assistance to apply. The level of assistance is advantageously dynamically modulated according to the evolution of one or more of these parameters.
L’assistance peut notamment n’être mise en oeuvre que lorsqu’un décalage suffisant, prédéfini, entre la force exercée par la corde sur la poulie et une force de référence est constatée. Ce décalage permet de n’assister le grimpeur qu’à partir d’un certain niveau d’effort fourni. Cela permet d’éviter une mise en oeuvre intempestive de l’assistance. Cela peut permettre également de définir par exemple une valeur constante d’un effort à produire par le grimpeur, la différence entre cette valeur et la force nécessaire à l’escalade étant fournies par la fonction d’assistance du dispositif d’assurage. In particular, assistance can only be implemented when there is a sufficient predefined offset between the force exerted by the rope on the pulley and a reference force is observed. This offset allows the climber to be assisted only after a certain level of effort has been provided. This is to avoid the untimely implementation of assistance. This can also make it possible to define, for example, a constant value of an effort to be produced by the climber, the difference between this value and the force necessary for climbing being provided by the assistance function of the belay device.
L’assistance offerte peut également prendre en compte une valeur de calibration. Cette valeur peut être fixe, par défaut, ou programmée selon l’utilisateur. Par exemple, le poids de l’utilisateur, ou une fraction prédéfinie du poids de l’utilisateur, peut être prise comme valeur de calibration. The assistance offered may also take into account a calibration value. This value can be fixed, by default, or programmed according to the user. For example, the user's weight, or a predefined fraction of the user's weight, can be taken as a calibration value.
D’autres lois d’asservissement du moteur peuvent être envisagées dans le cadre de l’invention. Par exemple, le moteur peut être asservi de sorte que la vitesse de montée du grimpeur soit constante. Ce type d’assistance est peu adapté à la pratique de l’escalade sportive, mais peut, dans certains cas, être adapté à une activité d’escalade ludique. Other engine control laws may be contemplated within the scope of the invention. For example, the motor can be slaved so that the climbing speed of the climber is constant. This type of assistance is not very suitable for the practice of sport climbing, but can, in some cases, be adapted to a fun climbing activity.
La figure 3 illustre un dispositif d’assurage pour l’escalade conforme à un mode de réalisation de l’invention. Selon ce mode de réalisation, l’enrouleur peut se déplacer latéralement en haut de la paroi d’escalade 25 pour accompagner un déplacement latéral du grimpeur qui est assuré. FIG. 3 illustrates a belay device for climbing according to one embodiment of the invention. According to this embodiment, the reel can be move laterally at the top of the climbing wall 25 to accompany a lateral movement of the climber which is ensured.
La direction transversale T est définie comme une direction perpendiculaire à la verticale V, c’est-à-dire la direction d’application de la gravité ou encore la direction générale d’extension de la corde d’assurage. La direction transversale s’étend dans le plan général d’extension de la paroi d’escalade considérée. The transverse direction T is defined as a direction perpendicular to the vertical V, that is to say the direction of application of gravity or the general direction of extension of the belay rope. The transverse direction extends in the general extension plane of the climbing wall considered.
Dans le mode de réalisation de la figure 3, l’enrouleur automatique 1 est monté via un support de montage 5 adapté sur un rail 26 s’étendant dans la direction transversale T. L’enrouleur automatique se déplace librement sur le rail 26, de sorte que son mouvement accompagne les déplacements latéraux du grimpeur. In the embodiment of Fig. 3, the automatic reel 1 is mounted via a mounting bracket 5 fitted on a rail 26 extending in the transverse direction T. The automatic reel moves freely on the rail 26, from so that its movement accompanies the lateral movements of the climber.
La figure 4 illustre une variante du principe illustré à la figure 3. Dans le mode de réalisation de la figure 4, l’enrouleur automatique 1 offrant une fonction d’assistance à l’escalade est monté sur un bras pivotant 27, qui permet son Figure 4 illustrates a variant of the principle illustrated in Figure 3. In the embodiment of Figure 4, the automatic reel 1 offering a climbing assistance function is mounted on a swivel arm 27, which allows its
mouvement transversal. Bien que le mouvement ne soit pas purement transversal, le dispositif peut être configuré pour permettre un déplacement transversal adéquat, et présente l’avantage d’une grande simplicité et d’une grande fiabilité. transverse movement. Although the movement is not purely transverse, the device can be configured to allow adequate transverse movement, and has the advantage of great simplicity and reliability.
La figure 5 illustre un autre aspect de l’invention, selon lequel le dispositif d’assurage permettant une assistance à l’escalade est employé dans un Figure 5 illustrates another aspect of the invention, according to which the belay device allowing climbing assistance is employed in a
environnement virtuel ou à réalité augmentée. En effet, du fait de l’assistance pouvant être fournie, ainsi que du confort et du haut niveau de sécurité offert, le dispositif d’assurage proposé est particulièrement adapté à des usages plus ludiques que la pratique traditionnelle de l’escalade. virtual or augmented reality environment. Indeed, because of the assistance that can be provided, as well as the comfort and high level of safety offered, the proposed belay device is particularly suitable for more fun uses than the traditional practice of climbing.
L’invention porte ainsi également sur un système d’escalade ludique représenté à la figure 5. Outre le dispositif d’assurage comportant un enrouleur automatique 1 , le dispositif comporte un système informatique 28 programmé pour appliquer à une structure d’escalade 29 (par exemple une paroi d’escalade) un environnement virtuel. The invention thus also relates to a fun climbing system shown in FIG. 5. In addition to the belay device comprising an automatic reel 1, the device comprises a computer system 28 programmed to apply to a climbing structure 29 (by example a climbing wall) a virtual environment.
L’environnement virtuel peut être appliqué au moyen d’un projecteur 30. On parle alors de réalité augmentée. The virtual environment can be applied by means of a projector 30. This is referred to as augmented reality.
L’environnement peut être appliqué via un casque de réalité virtuelle 31 , on parle alors de réalité virtuelle. The environment can be applied via a virtual reality headset 31, this is called virtual reality.
Le projecteur et le casque de réalité virtuelle peuvent être employés en alternative ou en complément, par exemple pour permettre concomitamment l’immersion du grimpeur dans l’environnement virtuel et une visualisation par des spectateurs de l’environnement virtuel dans lequel le grimpeur est placé. L’environnement virtuel peut être de tout type, par exemple un The projector and the virtual reality headset can be used as an alternative or as a complement, for example to concomitantly allow the climber's immersion in the virtual environment and a visualization by spectators of the virtual environment in which the climber is placed. The virtual environment can be of any type, for example a
environnement naturel (falaise, arbre virtuel 33, etc.) ou un environnement urbain (façade d’un immeuble, monument, etc.). natural environment (cliff, virtual tree 33, etc.) or an urban environment (facade of a building, monument, etc.).
Les environnements virtuels sont avantageusement créés de sorte que les prises de l’environnement virtuel correspondent, en position et en forme, aux prises réelles de la structure d’escalade 29. The virtual environments are advantageously created so that the holds of the virtual environment correspond, in position and form, to the real holds of the climbing structure 29.
L’ensemble peut comporter des moyens permettant de rendre l’environnement virtuel dynamique, selon les actions du grimpeur. Pour cela, des capteurs permettent de déterminer la position et l’attitude du grimpeur. Il peut s’agir de capteurs positionnés sur le grimpeur, et/ou d’une ou plusieurs caméras associées à un logiciel de traitement d’image. Il est ainsi possible de faire varier l’environnement, projeté sur la structure d’escalade 29 ou dans un casque de réalité virtuelle, pour l’adapter à certaines actions du grimpeur. Il est également possible de fournir au grimpeur muni d’un casque de réalité virtuelle un retour visuel sur la position de ses propres membres dans l’environnement virtuel. The set may include means to make the virtual environment dynamic, depending on the actions of the climber. For this, sensors are used to determine the position and attitude of the climber. These may be sensors positioned on the climber, and / or one or more cameras associated with image processing software. It is thus possible to vary the environment, projected on the climbing structure 29 or in a virtual reality headset, to adapt it to certain actions of the climber. It is also possible to provide the climber with a virtual reality headset with visual feedback on the position of his own limbs in the virtual environment.
Un système d’escalade ludique tel que proposé selon cet aspect de l’invention permet d’offrir une expérience nouvelle d’escalade, ludique ou à vocation pédagogique (par exemple pour une adaptation à la sensation de vertige) voire une expérience totalement ludique : escalade sans effort dans des environnements virtuels insolites, sauts d’arbres en arbres virtuels, entre immeubles virtuels, etc., par exemple à la manière d’un super héros capable de prouesses physiques surhumaines. A playful climbing system as proposed according to this aspect of the invention makes it possible to offer a new climbing experience, playful or for educational purposes (for example for an adaptation to the sensation of vertigo) or even a completely playful experience: climbing effortlessly in unusual virtual environments, jumping from tree to virtual tree, between virtual buildings, etc., for example like a superhero capable of superhuman physical prowess.
Le dispositif d’assurage pour l’escalade développé dans l’invention propose ainsi un dispositif d’assurage à enrouleur automatique, simple et sûr, pour la pratique de l’escalade sans assureur. Il permet de réaliser, par un seul et même moyen, à savoir un moteur asservi à l’aide d’un encodeur accouplé à la poulie de l’enrouleur, à la fois une fonction d’assurage en cas de chute, et une fonction d’assistance à l’escalade. L’emploi d’un moteur asservi permet l’obtention du couple nécessaire à appliquer à la poulie pour ces deux fonctions, et la modulation de ce couple selon diverses lois d’asservissement du moteur, afin de répondre aux usages et à la finalité du dispositif dans la pratique de l’escalade en tant que sport, loisir, ou activité ludique. The climbing belay device developed in the invention thus provides a simple and safe automatic reel belay device for climbing without a belay device. It makes it possible to achieve, by one and the same means, namely a servo motor using an encoder coupled to the reel pulley, both a belay function in the event of a fall, and a climbing assistance. The use of a servo motor makes it possible to obtain the necessary torque to be applied to the pulley for these two functions, and the modulation of this torque according to various motor servo laws, in order to meet the uses and the purpose of the motor. device in the practice of climbing as a sport, leisure or fun activity.
Par sa configuration très simple et les fonctions qu’il offre, le dispositif est adapté à être employé dans un ensemble ludique d’escalade permettant d’appliquer un environnement virtuel à une structure réelle d’escalade, pour offrir des expériences inédites et/ou ludiques au grimpeur.. By its very simple configuration and the functions it offers, the device is suitable for use in a fun climbing assembly allowing a virtual environment to be applied to a real climbing structure, to offer new experiences and / or fun for the climber.

Claims

Revendications Claims
1. Dispositif d’assurage pour l’escalade comportant un enrouleur automatique (1 ) comportant une poulie (10) et une corde (3), le dispositif étant configuré de sorte que la corde (3) est enroulée ou déroulée selon l’évolution d’un grimpeur assuré par ledit dispositif d’assurage, 1. Belay device for climbing comprising an automatic reel (1) comprising a pulley (10) and a rope (3), the device being configured so that the rope (3) is wound or unwound according to the evolution. a climber insured by the said belay device,
caractérisé en ce que le dispositif d’assurage comporte : characterized in that the belay device comprises:
un moteur (12) électrique configuré de sorte à pouvoir appliquer un couple à la poulie (10) et un encodeur accouplé à la poulie, le moteur étant asservi par un circuit électronique de commande à l’aide de l’encodeur en fonction de la rotation de la poulie (10) de sorte à moduler ledit couple appliqué à la poulie selon au moins : an electric motor (12) configured so as to be able to apply a torque to the pulley (10) and an encoder coupled to the pulley, the motor being controlled by an electronic control circuit using the encoder according to the rotation of the pulley (10) so as to modulate said torque applied to the pulley according to at least:
- un mode d’assistance dans lequel le couple appliqué par le moteur à la poulie (10) entraîne une traction de la corde (3) qui assiste le grimpeur dans son escalade ; et - an assistance mode in which the torque applied by the motor to the pulley (10) pulls the rope (3) which assists the climber in his climb; and
- un mode de chute dans lequel le couple appliqué par le moteur à la poulie (10) bloque une chute du grimpeur ou la ralentit pour la maintenir à une vitesse inférieure à 3 m/s. - a fall mode in which the torque applied by the motor to the pulley (10) blocks a fall by the climber or slows it down to maintain it at a speed lower than 3 m / s.
2. Dispositif selon la revendication 1 , dans lequel le moteur (12) est asservi de sorte que le couple entraînant la traction dans le mode d’assistance n’est appliqué que lorsque ledit encodeur détecte une rotation de la poulie qui traduit une diminution de la force appliquée par la corde (3) sur la poulie (10). 2. Device according to claim 1, wherein the motor (12) is controlled so that the torque driving the traction in the assistance mode is applied only when said encoder detects a rotation of the pulley which reflects a decrease in the force applied by the rope (3) on the pulley (10).
3. Dispositif selon la revendication 2, dans lequel la valeur du couple appliqué par le moteur (12) à la poulie (10) dans le mode d’assistance est fonction de la valeur, du taux, ou de la vitesse de la diminution de la force appliquée par la corde (3) sur la poulie (10). 3. Device according to claim 2, wherein the value of the torque applied by the motor (12) to the pulley (10) in the assistance mode is a function of the value, the rate, or the speed of the decrease. the force applied by the rope (3) on the pulley (10).
4. Dispositif selon l’une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la valeur du couple appliqué par le moteur (12) à la poulie (10) dans le mode d’assistance est fonction d’une valeur de calibration du dispositif prédéfinie. 4. Device according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the value of the torque applied by the motor (12) to the pulley (10) in the assistance mode is a function of a predefined device calibration value.
5. Dispositif selon l’une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le moteur (12) est asservi de sorte que, dans le mode d’assistance, la vitesse de montée, correspondant à la vitesse d’enroulement de la corde (3) sur la poulie (10), est sensiblement constante. 5. Device according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the motor (12) is controlled so that, in the assistance mode, the ascent speed, corresponding to the winding speed of the rope (3) on the pulley (10) is substantially constant.
6. Dispositif selon l’une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le moteur (12) est asservi de sorte que dans le mode de chute le couple appliqué à la poulie (10) assure essentiellement une vitesse de chute prédéfinie sensiblement constante, indépendamment de la force appliquée par la corde (3) sur la poulie (10). 6. Device according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the motor (12) is controlled so that in the drop mode the torque applied to the pulley (10) essentially ensures a substantially constant predefined fall speed, regardless of the force applied by the rope (3) to the pulley (10).
7. Dispositif selon la revendication 6, dans lequel le moteur est asservi de sorte que dans le mode de chute le couple appliqué à la poulie permet un freinage progressif du grimpeur avant d’assurer une vitesse de chute sensiblement constante. 7. Device according to claim 6, wherein the motor is controlled so that in the fall mode the torque applied to the pulley allows progressive braking of the climber before ensuring a substantially constant fall speed.
8. Dispositif selon l’une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le moteur (12) est directement lié à la poulie (10) ou par l’intermédiaire d’une transmission mécanique synchrone. 8. Device according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the motor (12) is directly linked to the pulley (10) or through a synchronous mechanical transmission.
9. Dispositif selon l’une des revendications précédentes, comportant en outre un frein à disque (21 ) configuré pour être actionné automatiquement en cas de coupure d’alimentation électrique dudit dispositif. 9. Device according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising a disc brake (21) configured to be actuated automatically in the event of a power cut to said device.
10. Dispositif selon l’une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le moteur (12) est de type sans balai et comporte un rotor (14) portant une série d’aimants permanents et un stator (13) portant un ensemble de bobinages. 10. Device according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the motor (12) is of the brushless type and comprises a rotor (14) carrying a series of permanent magnets and a stator (13) carrying a set of coils.
1 1 . Dispositif selon l’une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu’il 1 1. Device according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it
comporte un système mécanique permettant un déplacement de l’enrouleur automatique, dans une direction dite transversale (T), perpendiculaire à la direction générale d’extension de la corde (3) en dehors de l’enrouleur automatique (1 ) dite verticale (V). comprises a mechanical system allowing a displacement of the automatic reel, in a so-called transverse direction (T), perpendicular to the general direction of extension of the rope (3) outside the automatic reel (1) called vertical (V ).
12. Dispositif selon la revendication 1 1 , dans lequel l’enrouleur automatique (1 ) est monté sur un rail (26) s’étendant dans la direction transversale (T) de sorte à pouvoir être translaté librement le long dudit rail (26), ou sur un bras pivotant (27) selon un axe s’étendant sensiblement selon la direction verticale (V). 12. Device according to claim 1 1, wherein the automatic reel (1) is mounted on a rail (26) extending in the transverse direction (T) so as to be able to be freely translated along said rail (26). , or on a pivoting arm (27) along an axis extending substantially in the vertical direction (V).
13. Système d’escalade ludique comportant une structure d’escalade (29), un dispositif de réalité virtuelle tel qu’un casque (31 ) ou des lunettes, un système informatique 13. A fun climbing system comprising a climbing structure (29), a virtual reality device such as a helmet (31) or glasses, a computer system
(28) adapté à projeter dans le dispositif de réalité virtuelle une image appliquée à la structure à escalader (29), et un dispositif d’assurage pour l’escalade conforme à l’une des revendications précédentes. (28) adapted to project in the virtual reality device an image applied to the structure to be climbed (29), and a belay device for climbing according to one of the preceding claims.
14. Système d’escalade ludique comportant une structure d’escalade (29), un dispositif de réalité augmentée, un système informatique (29) adapté à projeter sur la structure à escalader une image, et un dispositif d’assurage pour l’escalade conforme à l’une des revendications 1 à 12. 14. A playful climbing system comprising a climbing structure (29), an augmented reality device, a computer system (29) adapted to project an image onto the structure to be climbed, and a belay device for climbing according to one of claims 1 to 12.
15. Système d’escalade ludique selon la revendication 13 ou la revendication 14 15. A fun climbing system according to claim 13 or claim 14
comportant un capteur configuré pour déterminer la position et l’attitude d’un grimpeur utilisant ledit système d’escalade ludique, de sorte à faire varier l’image projetée dans le dispositif de réalité virtuelle ou sur la structure à escalader (29). having a sensor configured to determine the position and attitude of a climber using said playful climbing system, so as to vary the image projected in the virtual reality device or on the structure to be climbed (29).
EP20710236.9A 2019-02-19 2020-02-18 Belay device for assisted climbing Pending EP3927437A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1901643A FR3092766B1 (en) 2019-02-19 2019-02-19 Belay device for assisted climbing
PCT/FR2020/050291 WO2020169914A1 (en) 2019-02-19 2020-02-18 Belay device for assisted climbing

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EP3927437A1 true EP3927437A1 (en) 2021-12-29

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US (1) US20220134164A1 (en)
EP (1) EP3927437A1 (en)
CN (1) CN113423472A (en)
FR (1) FR3092766B1 (en)
WO (1) WO2020169914A1 (en)

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USD1019000S1 (en) * 2023-11-13 2024-03-19 Yibo Wu Automatic fire extinguisher

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WO2020169914A1 (en) 2020-08-27
FR3092766A1 (en) 2020-08-21
CN113423472A (en) 2021-09-21
FR3092766B1 (en) 2022-06-17
US20220134164A1 (en) 2022-05-05

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