EP3586665A1

EP3586665A1 - Footwear and method for its production

Info

Publication number: EP3586665A1
Application number: EP19176828.2A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Alessio Sturlini
Original assignee: Calzaturificio Navayos Srl
Current assignee: Calzaturificio Navayos Srl
Priority date: 2018-06-28
Filing date: 2019-05-27
Publication date: 2020-01-01
Anticipated expiration: 2039-05-27
Also published as: EP3586665B1; IT201800006773A1

Abstract

A shoe (1), comprising a vamp (2), a sole (3), and at least one insole (4) interposed between the vamp (2) and the sole (3); the insole (4) has a multilayer structure, and comprises a first insole (12) and a second insole (13), superimposed, and at least one shank (14) associated with the lower face, in use, of the second insole (13). The shank (14) comprises a first portion (15) provided at the heel area, and a second portion (16) provided at the front area of the shoe (1); the first portion (15) in turn comprises a first layer (15a) and a second layer (15b) superimposed one over the other and attached to the lower face, in use, of the second insole (13), at least one stiffener (17) being interposed between the first layer (15a) and the second layer (15b).

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to footwear.
Moreover, the present invention relates to a method for the production of the aforementioned footwear.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PRIOR ART

In the field of footwear production, and with particular reference to high-quality elegant, classic or artisan footwear, various construction techniques are used, each identified with its own name (e.g. tubular processing, slip-lasting processing, and others).
Some of these construction techniques have become traditional and are real production standards; they allow obtaining results and characteristics which differ from the point of view of product appearance and quality, as well as from the point of view of the sensations perceived by the user when wearing them.
Although there are various construction techniques, as stated, from which the manufacturer can choose to obtain the desired result which best meets the needs of the buyer, it is known that one of the problems that many users more frequently feel when wearing footwear predominantly of classical/elegant design, is the stiffness, or more in general, a feeling of poor comfort, in the area of the sole.
This feeling of poor comfort is felt mainly when the user spends a lot of time standing, or when he/she must walk for relatively long periods.
The reasons why the user feels these unpleasant sensations can reside primarily in the materials used to produce the parts of the shoe that constitute the sole area, or also the specific construction technique that the manufacturer has used to produce the product.
For these reasons, in relatively recent times footwear models have been introduced on the market which associate a vamp with a relatively classic/elegant design with a sole having very similar characteristics to those of leisure shoes' soles or even sports shoes' soles, precisely because of their remarkable softness and flexibility.
These shoes, which have certainly enjoyed good commercial success, cannot however be compared, strictly from the aesthetic point of view, to the traditional classic/elegant shoes, and thus the user may decide not to use them on certain occasions/situations in which they would not be appropriate.
Among the operators of the sector, and in particular manufacturers of classic/elegant/artisan footwear, the need is therefore felt to be able to overcome the drawbacks mentioned in such a way, however, as to not affect or impair the particular aesthetic characteristics of the products manufactured.

OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION

The technical scope of this invention is to improve the state of the art in the field of footwear production.
Within the scope of this technical task, an object of the present invention is to provide footwear which is improved and perfected from the point of view of user comfort.
Another object of the present invention is to produce footwear which is improved and perfected from the point of view of flexibility and softness, particularly in the area of the sole.
Another object of the present invention is to provide footwear which is improved and perfected from the point of view of the construction characteristics.
A further object of the present invention is to provide a method that allows producing footwear which is improved and perfected from the point of view of comfort, flexibility and softness that is efficient, reliable and capable of giving rise to qualitatively superior results compared to what can be achieved with the currently known construction techniques.
This scope and these objects are achieved by the footwear according to the attached claim 1.
The shoe comprising a vamp, a sole, and at least one insole interposed between the vamp and the sole.
According to one aspect of the invention, the insole has a multilayer structure and comprises a first insole and a second insole superimposed, and at least one shank associated with the lower face, in use, of the second insole.
The second insole, in particular, is made of leather.
In one embodiment of the invention of particular practical interest, at least one portion of the vamp is made of leather; moreover, the second insole can be made with the same leather with which said vamp is made.
This solution allows obtaining unexpected results from the point of view of the characteristics of the shoe during use, in particular from the point of view of the softness and flexibility of the sole.
According to another aspect of the invention, the sole is made of leather with elevated elasticity characteristics.
According to a further aspect of the invention, the shank comprises a first portion provided at the heel area, and a second portion, provided at the front area of the shoe; the first portion in turn comprises a first layer and a second layer superimposed one over the other and attached to the lower face, in use, of the second insole, at least one stiffener being interposed between the first layer and the second layer.
Dependent claims refer to preferred and advantageous embodiments of the invention.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.

The features of the invention will be better understood by anyone skilled in the art from the following description and accompanying drawings, provided by way of nonlimiting example, in which:

figure 1 is a perspective view of a shoe according to the invention;
figure 2 is a view from above of the insole of the shoe, in the assembled configuration;
figure 3 is a view from below of the insole of the shoe, in the assembled configuration;
figure 4 is an exploded perspective view, from above, of the insole of the shoe;
figure 5 is a side view of the insole of the shoe, in the assembled configuration;
figure 6 is an exploded perspective view, from below, of the insole of the shoe;
figure 7 is a plan view of the various components of the insole of the shoe;
figure 8 is a view from above of the sole of the shoe;
figure 9 is a view from below of the sole of the shoe.

EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION.

With reference to the attached figure 1, the reference number 1 generally indicates a shoe according to the present invention.
The shoe 1 comprises a vamp, globally indicated with the number 2.
Moreover, the shoe comprises a sole, globally indicated with the number 3.
The sole 2 is connected to the vamp 3 along a perimeter junction.
The shoe further comprises at least one insole 4.
The insole 4 is interposed between the sole 3 and the vamp 2, and constitutes the portion of the shoe 1 on which the user directly rests the foot (unless further insoles are interposed between the foot and the insole 4).
At least one portion (inner or outer) of the vamp 2 is made of leather.
In one embodiment of the invention, the vamp 2 can comprise, for example, an outer portion in leather, and an inner lining.
The inner lining can be made for example of leather, or another material.
In turn, the outer portion of the vamp 2 in leather can comprise a front toe-end 5 and a rear counter 6.
However, in other embodiments of the invention, the vamp 2 could be made of other materials and/or comprise additional different portions.
In figure 1, merely by way of example and for a better understanding, a shoe 1 of the moccasin type is shown.
This example is not to be considered in a limiting sense: in fact, the shoe 1 could be of any other type, without departing from the scope of the present invention.
With reference to figure 8, the sole 3 comprises a main portion 7 and a welt 8, associated with the periphery of the main portion 7.
According to one aspect of the invention, the main portion 7 is made of leather.
In more detail, the main portion 7 is made of leather with elevated elasticity characteristics, so that it results particularly flexible and soft when the shoe 1 is worn. According to the invention, the leather used is a leather that has been greased and staked, not calendered.
The welt 8 can be made, for example, of leather, or salpa leather, or another suitable material.
The sole 2 also comprises a heel 9.
The heel 9 can be made of any suitable material and can be connected to the main portion 7 with any fixing means known in the art.
For example, the heel 9 can be connected to the main portion 7 by means of nails 10, or other equivalent fixing means.
The main portion 7 of the sole 2 can comprise at least one area 11 designed for the production of a tread in its lower face, in use.
The tread area 11 can be provided at the region of the metatarsus.
The tread area 11 can comprise an element 11a, made for example of plastic, rubber or another suitable material, engaged in a respective opening 7a provided in the main portion 7 of the sole 2.
This element 11a comprises, on its face designed for contact with the ground, a plurality of protrusions 11b which constitute the tread.
The same element 1 1a can also have a surface and dimensions such as to cover a wide area of the lower face, in use, of the main portion 7 of the sole 2 (for example the entire surface of the lower face, in use, of the main portion 7 with the exception of the heel 9); in other words, the element can completely cover the face of the main portion 7 which, in use, is designed for contact with the ground.
Thanks to the characteristics of the material with which it is made, the element 11a can contribute to increasing the flexibility of the sole 2, at least in the area of the metatarsus, or front area (i.e. at the opening 7a of the main portion 7).
In other embodiments of the invention, the main portion 7 can lack openings and the tread area 11 can be fixed directly on the lower surface, in use, of the aforementioned main portion 7: the fixing can be carried out for example by gluing, or the protrusions 11b of the tread area 11 can be made by injection moulding, or with other similar technologies.
According to another aspect of the invention (with reference to figures 2-7), the insole 4 comprises a first insole 12 and a second insole 13 superimposed, and also a shank, generally indicated with the number 14.
The shank 14 is associated with the second insole 13 at its lower face, in use.
The first insole 12, which in use is positioned above, i.e. closer to the foot, is made of non-allergenic latex with a thickness of 2.2 mm; it mainly features high transpiration and softness properties, and therefore provides high comfort in direct contact with the foot.
The second insole 13, which in use is positioned below, i.e. farther from the foot, is made with the same leather with which the vamp could be made.
The leather used can be, for example, calfskin with a thickness of 1.1/1.4 mm.
This solution, as better described in the following, provides unexpected results from the point of view of the behaviour of the shoe 1 during use.
The first insole 12 and the second insole 13 can be mutually joined together by gluing, or with another equivalent technique.
The shank 14 comprises a first portion 15, provided at the heel area.
Moreover, the shank 14 comprises a second portion 16, provided at the front area of the shoe (substantially at the tip).
The first portion 15 of the shank 14 in turn comprises a first layer 15a and a second layer 15b.
The first layer 15a is made of texon 705 with a thickness of 1.5 mm.
The second layer 15b is made of fibre-reinforced cardboard with a thickness of 20/10 BCC.
The first layer 15a and the second layer 15b are superimposed one over the other and are connected to the lower face, in use, of the second insole 13.
The second layer 15b, when observing the insole 4 in plan view (see for example figure 3) has an extension greater than that of the first layer 15a, so as to completely cover the latter.
A stiffener 17 is interposed between the fi\\rst layer 15a and the second layer 15b.
The stiffener 17 can be made, for example, in metallic material, or plastic, or another material having suitable characteristics, with sizes generally of 90 mm x 8 mm.
The stiffener 17 can be connected to the remaining parts of the insole 4 by means of a fastening member 18, such as a rivet or the like.
The fastening member 18 is engaged in at least one hole 17a provided in the stiffener 17.
The shank 14 essentially has the function of providing greater stability to the plantar arch of the foot.
As can be seen in figure 5, the insole 4 has a multilayer structure that is, in practical use, particularly flexible and soft, mainly but not only in the central/median area, and is still able to guarantee the necessary characteristics of supporting/cushioning the foot in the areas of the heel and the toe.
The insole 4 is fixed to the vamp 2 using an adhesive with a low environmental impact.
The sole 3 is also fixed to the insole 4, and the vamp 2, using an adhesive with a low environmental impact.
A peripheral seam 19 can be provided for mutually fixing the sole 3 to the vamp 2 and the insole 4.
The applicant has been able to verify that the particular combination of the sole 3 and the insole 4, having the characteristics described above, provides unexpected results from the point of view of the softness and flexibility of the shoe.
In this result, the choice of the materials used to make the two aforementioned components 3,4 is of primary importance.
In particular, as regards the insole 4, the aforementioned effect of softness and flexibility is conferred by associating a first insole 12 in non-allergenic latex with a second insole 13 made of leather, superimposed and fixed to one another.
As regards, instead, the sole 3, the effect of softness and flexibility is given by the use of a greased and staked type of leather.
Therefore, the junction of the two parts gives rise, in practical use, to a surprisingly flexible behaviour of the shoe 1 in the entire area of the sole 3; this behaviour can be perceived in particular - but not only - in the central/median area of the same.
Therefore, the shoe 1 is significantly more comfortable and convenient with respect to other products of the same category, also and above all in the case in which the user must walk long distances or must spend long periods standing.
The object of the present invention also comprises a method for the production of a shoe 1.
In one embodiment of the method of particular practical interest, the shoe 1 is that having the characteristics described above.
The method comprises a step of preparation and production of the vamp 2.
The vamp 2 can be made using various technologies known in the field.
This step is not described in detail, as it can be performed according to a large number of possible alternative solutions, all however falling within the scope of the present invention.
The vamp 2 is preferably, but not exclusively, made of leather or fabric, or a combination of the two materials.
The method further comprises a step of preparing and producing the components 12,13,14 of the insole 4, and a step of assembling the same.
In particular, the first insole 12 and the second insole 13 are joined together - for example using adhesives with a low environmental impact - superimposed one over the other.
At the lower face, in use, of the second insole 13, the first portion 15 and the second portion 16 of the shank 14 are applied (for example, using adhesives with a low environmental impact): in more detail, the first layer 15a and the second layer 15b of the first portion 15 are fixed one over another after the interposition of the stiffener 17.
The latter is then fixed to other parts of the insole 4 by means of a suitable fastening member 18 (for example a rivet, or similar).
Once the insole 4 is assembled, it has the multilayer structure shown in figure 5.
The method then comprises a step of fixing the insole 4 - with its upper face, in use, i.e. that closer to the foot - to a suitable shoe tree, which substantially reproduces the shape of a foot.
The fixing of the insole 4 to the shoe tree - which is temporary - can be carried out in various ways, for example with adhesive tape, with an adhesive, or others.
The vamp 2 is then fitted on the aforementioned shoe tree, in such a way that its lower edge is superimposed on the lower face, in use, of the insole 4, i.e. the face farthest from the foot.
Once completed, a step is provided for mutually fixing the vamp 2 and the insole 4, also in this case using an adhesive with a low environmental impact.
Once the vamp 2 and the insole 4 are mutually fixed, the sole 2 is fixed to the lower face, in use, of the insole 4.
This fixing step is once again performed using adhesives with a low environmental impact.
Following the fixing of the sole 2, a final constraining peripheral seam 19 can be made for mutually fixing all components.
Next the drying of the adhesives and the removal of the shoe tree from the vamp 2 are carried out.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the above operating steps are carried out mainly in a manual manner, possibly with the exception of the production step of the final peripheral seam 19 (if provided) that is carried out by means of suitable machinery for sewing footwear.
According to the invention, the manual construction of the shoe 1 contributes to obtaining the desired strength and softness characteristics.
In fact, during the assembling and fixing each of the parts of the shoe 1, the craftsman/operator can check, test and, if necessary, modify the characteristics of the shoe 1, before however having finished all the operating steps.
For example, in the application of the adhesive in the different phases of fixing the parts, the craftsman/operator can apply the quantity of product actually needed to obtain the effective and stable connection of the parts themselves, paying careful attention to avoid creating any excessive rigidity in the connection areas.
On the contrary, in automated industrial production it may occur that the application of the adhesive is carried out in a manner which cannot be precisely controlled, or regardless cannot be verified, step by step, from the point of view of certain characteristics of the shoe.
More in particular, it may occur that the application of the adhesive with industrial machinery is carried out in an excessive amount in certain parts (for example between the insole 4 and the vamp 2, or between the sole 3 and the insole 4) so that there is an unnecessary accumulation of material in these parts that does not have the necessary characteristics from the point of view, primarily, of flexibility, and which therefore causes unnecessary stiffening.
Moreover, the method is implemented using a minimum amount of equipment.
It has thus been seen how the invention achieves the intended purposes.
Thanks to the characteristics described, the shoe 1 has the characteristics of softness and flexibility, especially in the area of the sole 3, distinctly superior to footwear of the same category currently present on the market.
Therefore, the shoe 1 is of extremely convenient and comfortable use even in the case of long walks or long periods of standing.
The aforementioned superior characteristics of softness and flexibility are obtained in the context of a construction solution which is nonetheless extremely solid and strong, and which is kept intact over time, and also with intensive use.
The aforementioned satisfactory results are obtained by a method which is simple, safe and versatile: in particular, its almost completely manual implementation allows checking and testing, step by step, the characteristics of the shoe, so as to use the most suitable raw material in the right quantities (typically the adhesives, but not only).
The present invention has been described according to preferred embodiments, but equivalent variants are still possible without departing from the scope of the appended claims.

Claims

A shoe (1), comprising a vamp (2), a sole (3), and at least one insole (4) interposed between said vamp (2) and said sole (3), said insole (4) having a multilayer structure and comprising a first insole (12) and a second insole (13), superposed, and at least one shank (14) associated to the lower face, in use, of said second insole (13), characterised in that said shank (14) comprises a first portion (15) provided at the heel area, and a second portion (16) provided at the front area of the shoe (1), said first portion (15) in turn comprising a first layer (15a) and a second layer (15b) superimposed one over the other and attached to the lower face, in use, of said second insole (13), at least one stiffener (17) being interposed between said first layer (15a) and said second layer (15b).
A shoe (1) according to claim 1, wherein at least a portion of said vamp (2) is made of leather, with said second insole (13) being made with the same leather with which said vamp (2) can be made.
A shoe (1) according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said first insole (12) is made of non-allergenic latex.
A shoe according to one of the preceding claims, wherein said first layer (15a) is made of texon 705, thickness 1.5 mm, and wherein said second layer (15b) is made of fibre-reinforced cardboard 20/10 BCC.
A shoe (1) according to one of the preceding claims, wherein said sole (3) comprises a main portion (7) and a welt (8), associated with the periphery of said main portion (7), and wherein said main portion (7) is made of leather with an elevated elasticity, i.e. leather that has been greased and staked.
A shoe (1) according to claim 5, wherein said main portion (7) comprises at least one area (11) designed for the creation of a tread in its lower face, in use.
A shoe according to claim 6, wherein said tread area (11) comprises an element (11a) made of rubber, plastic or another suitable material, engaged in a respective window (7a) provided in said main portion (7), said element (11a) comprising, in its face designed for contact with the ground, a plurality of protrusions (11b) which constitute the tread.
A shoe according to claim 7, wherein said element (11a) has a surface such as to completely cover the face of said main portion (7) designed for contact with the ground, with the exception of the heel (9) of the sole (3).
A method for the manufacturing of a shoe (1) according to one of claims 1-8, characterised in that it comprises the steps of:
providing said vamp (2);

providing said first insole (12), said second insole (13) and said shank (14);

joining said first insole (12), said second insole (13) and said shank (14) so as to obtain said insole (4), with a multilayer structure;

fixing said insole (4) to a suitable shoe tree which reproduces the shape of the foot;

fitting said vamp (2) on said shoe tree, in such a way that its lower edge is superposed on the lower face, in use, of said insole (4);

fixing said vamp (2) to said insole (4);

fixing said sole (3) to the lower face, in use, of said insole (4);

removing said shoe tree.
A method according to claim 9, wherein said step of fixing said vamp (2) to said insole (4) is carried out using adhesives with a low environmental impact.
A method according to claims 9 or 10, wherein said step of fixing said sole (3) to said insole (4) is carried out using adhesives with a low environmental impact.
A method according to one of claims 9-11, wherein said operating steps are carried out manually.
A method according to one of claims 9-12, comprising a step of carrying out a final peripheral seam (19) for mutually fixing all components.