EP3585352A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological preparations having a content of inorganic pigments, which are coated with hydrophilic silica, and having one or more stabilizers - Google Patents

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations having a content of inorganic pigments, which are coated with hydrophilic silica, and having one or more stabilizers

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Publication number
EP3585352A1
EP3585352A1 EP18700100.3A EP18700100A EP3585352A1 EP 3585352 A1 EP3585352 A1 EP 3585352A1 EP 18700100 A EP18700100 A EP 18700100A EP 3585352 A1 EP3585352 A1 EP 3585352A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
group
raw materials
coated
preparations according
cosmetic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP18700100.3A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Delphine CHANTY
Thomas Raschke
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP3585352A1 publication Critical patent/EP3585352A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62Coated
    • A61K2800/621Coated by inorganic compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/651The particulate/core comprising inorganic material

Definitions

  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing inorganic pigments coated with hydrophilic silica and one or more stabilizers.
  • the invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing inorganic pigments coated with hydrophilic silica and stabilizers.
  • decorative cosmetics derives from the Latin “decoratio” - the highlighting of the beautiful - with the help of dyes, individual parts of the body, especially on the face, are highlighted and color inconsistencies are lessened Give appearance, refresh pale skin, compensate for color irregularities of the skin as well as emphasize eyes and lips.
  • a particular embodiment is the so-called Foundation.
  • Foundation is liquid or semisolid make-up that is mostly skin colored and applied to the face. They give a uniform, healthy, tinted or reddish appearance. Their color is usually obtained by a mixture of pigments from the group of inorganic white, colored and / or colored pigments.
  • the prior art requires relatively large amounts of these inorganic whitening, coloring and / or colored pigments. The greater the proportion of this Pigments in the preparation, the better the skin is balanced. Redness and other visual skin irregularities are masked.
  • a disadvantage of the prior art is the fact that water-based foundations can be formulated only with a relatively low pigment content, since with an increasing content of insoluble particles or pigments instabilities or rheological changes of the suspension, such as Decrease in viscosity, occur.
  • the desired decorative effects can only be achieved with sufficiently high amounts of pigments.
  • agents are used, for example, stimulate the activity of skin cells, but also increasingly used UV filters that block especially responsible for skin aging UVA rays. All these ingredients pose a great challenge for a pleasant sensory, as they remain as a film on the skin after evaporation of the volatile constituents of the formulation, and sensed by the consumer sensory there.
  • the sensible residues are often described negatively and prevent the feeling that the product is completely "absorbed" in the skin.
  • the lipids in a proportion of 0.5 to 5% based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Particularly advantageous inorganic pigments which are coated with hydrophilic silica are the so-called “Primrose” pigments from Miyoshi Kasei Inc.
  • Preferred representatives of these silica-coated, hydrophilic, inorganic pigments have an average particle size of 1, 0-3.0 ⁇ m and have the following typical composition: 85.0-90.0% of inorganic pigments as core and 10.0-15.0 % Silicon dioxide (silica) as a coating.
  • Typical metal oxides used in the inorganic pigments are titanium dioxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide and manganese oxide. The sub different oxidation states of the metal oxide, especially the iron oxide, are responsible for the different colors, the following classes are, which are summarized in the so-called Color Index: Cl 77499 (black), Cl 77491 (red), Cl 77492 (yellow).
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, of one or more of the pigments of the invention Group of inorganic whitening, coloring or colored pigments which are coated with hydrophilic silica, based on the total composition of the preparations.
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain one or more polymers, which may be advantageously selected from the group, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, carrageenan, cellulose ethers, e.g.
  • Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or ethylcellulose particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called Carbopols, for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, Ultrez 10, ETD 2020, Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates Crosspolymer, sodium acrylate copolymer, carbomer, individually or in combination.
  • Carbopols for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, Ultrez 10, ETD 2020, Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates
  • Crosspolymer sodium acrylate copolymer, carbomer, individually or in combination.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.05-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-2% by weight of one or more of the polymers according to the invention on the total composition of the preparations.
  • Powder raw materials or fillers in the context of the present invention are particulate substances which generally do not produce a color effect in the cosmetic formulation in which they are used. Furthermore, fillers according to the invention usually have a low refractive index and, as a result, no or very little opacity.
  • the prior art knows a number of powder raw materials, which are used to obtain matting effects on the skin or to absorb sebum.
  • the use of powder raw materials generally also influences the dispersibility of conventional formulations on the skin and the uniformity of a possible color effect.
  • the powder raw materials in the context of the present invention are advantageously selected from the group of inorganic powder raw materials, for example from the group of silicates.
  • Silicates are salts and esters (silicic acid esters) of orthosilicic acid [Si (OH) 4 ] and their condensation products.
  • the silicates are not only the most species-rich class of minerals, but also extremely important geologically and technically. Over 80% of the earth's crust is made up of silicates.
  • Layer silicates are (ideally) silicate structures with two-dimensionally infinite layers of [Si04] 4 ⁇ tetrahedra, each tetrahedron being connected to neighboring tetrahedrons via 3 bridging oxygens.
  • Chemical formulas can only be approximated for phyllosilicates because they have a large ion exchange capacity and silicon can be exchanged for aluminum and this in turn against magnesium, Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Zn and the like.
  • the resulting possibly negative charge of the layers is usually compensated by cations, in particular by Na + and Ca 2+ in interlayer positions.
  • Phyllosilicates can be obtained by reversible storage of water (in the 2- to 7-fold amount) and other substances such. As alcohols, glycols and the like swell. Their use as thickeners in cosmetic products is accordingly known per se. However, the prior art could not point the way to the present invention.
  • Advantageous phyllosilicates which can be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, those whose largest expansion direction in the unmodified and unswollen state has an average length of less than 10 ⁇ m.
  • the mean extents of the modified layered silicate particles used may be 1000 nm ⁇ 100 nm ⁇ 1 nm and less.
  • the effective size of the modified layered silicate particles in a cosmetic or dermatological formulation of course depends on the amount of stored substances.
  • Particularly advantageous (layered) silicates according to the invention are:
  • Kaolin Al 2 [Si 2 O 5 ] (OH) 4
  • Bentonite montmorillonite with Ca (filler earth) or Na (Wyoming bentonite) hectorite: M + o, 3 (Mg2,7Lio, 3) [Si40io (OH) 2 ], where M + is mostly Na + ,
  • Mica an aluminosilicate that is easily fissile and is present in tabular crystals. Mica is transparent to translucent and has pearlescence. The most important form is muscovite: K Al 2 [AIS13O10] (OH, F) 2 . Sericite is a special form of mica that has smaller platelets than muscovite.
  • silicon oxides Si0 2
  • Aerosils fumed silica
  • Aerosils which are highly disperse silicas with frequently irregular shape, whose specific surface area is generally very large (200-400 m 2 / g) and which can be controlled by means of the production process, are preferred according to the invention. Aerosils are also referred to as: Amorphous Silica Amorphous Silicon Oxide Hydrate Silica, Amorphous Silicic Anhydride Silicon Dioxide Silicon Dioxide.
  • Silicon oxides can also be produced in a spherical form, in which case the specific surface area is smaller than in the aerosils, since the particles are larger and round.
  • An example of this is the Ronaspheren (average particle diameter ⁇ 3 ⁇ ) from the company Merck.
  • powder raw materials according to the invention are silicas whose free OH groups on the particle surface are (completely or partially) organically modified.
  • the obtainable by the addition of dimethylsilyl groups silica dimethyl Silyiate such as Aerosil R972 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil R974 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-610 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL TS -720 (Cabot), Wacker HDK H15 (Wacker chemistry), Wacker HDK H18 (Wacker chemistry) and / or Wacker HDK H20 (Wacker chemistry).
  • dimethylsilyl groups silica dimethyl Silyiate such as Aerosil R972 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil R974 (Degussa Hggs), CAB-O-SIL TS-610 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL TS -720 (Cabot), Wacker HDK H15 (Wacker chemistry), Wacker HDK H18 (Wacker chemistry) and / or Wacker HDK H20 (Wacker chemistry
  • silicates obtainable by addition of trimethylsilyl groups (eg Aerosil R 812 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-530 (Cabot), Sipernat D 17 (Degussa Hüls), Wacker HDK H2000 (Wacker). Chemistry)).
  • trimethylsilyl groups eg Aerosil R 812 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-530 (Cabot), Sipernat D 17 (Degussa Hüls), Wacker HDK H2000 (Wacker). Chemistry
  • polymethylsilsesquioxanes obtainable by hydrolysis and condensation reactions of methyltrimethoxysilanes also have a round shape and their particle size distribution can be controlled by the production.
  • Preferred polymethylsilsesquioxanes are available, for example, under the trade names Tospearl 2000 B from GE Bayer Silikones, Tospearl 145A from Toshiba, AEC Silicone Resin Spheres from A & E Connock and Wacker-Belsil PMS MK from Wacker-Chemie.
  • Boron nitride is isoelectronic with carbon (i.e., graphite and diamond shapes are possible). Boron nitride is characterized by its chemical inertness.
  • the powder raw materials in the context of the present invention are also advantageously selected from the group of organic powder raw materials.
  • organic powder raw materials are z. B. natural polymers, such as microcrystalline.
  • organic powder raw materials are also starch and starch derivatives, such as: corn starch Zea Mays (Amidon de maize MST (Wackherr), Argo Brand Com Starch
  • Silicone Resins Trimethylsiloxysilicate (eg SR 1000 GE Bayer Silicones)
  • silicone elastomers can be selected from the group of vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers, wherein Dow Corning's Dow Corning® EP-9801 Hydro Cosmetic Powder is to be emphasized (INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Silica).
  • lauroyl lysine which is sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amihope LL.
  • Powder raw materials preferred according to the invention come from the group of inorganic or organic silicon compounds.
  • the layer silicates are particularly preferred. Of these, kaolin, talc and mica are particularly preferred.
  • the preparations are characterized in that they contain 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably 0.2% by weight to 15% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight. 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more powder raw materials.
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, methylpropanediol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.
  • the oil or lipid phase according to the invention may contain all oils, fats, waxes and / or lipids customary in cosmetic preparations.
  • the lipids according to the present invention is substantially free of silicone oils according to the invention.
  • a content of not more than 0.95% by weight, preferably not more than 0.5% by weight, more preferably not more than 0.1% by weight, of one or more silicone oils which are liquid at room temperature can be tolerated.
  • oil components of the lipid phase of the preparations according to the invention completely or largely completely from the group of oils of synthetic and / or natural origin.
  • These can then be advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, coco-caprylate / caprate, Olefinoleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil.
  • the lipid phase can be advantageously selected in part from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C-atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as Caprylic Capric triglyceride, sunflower oil, soybean oil, almond oil and the like.
  • the lipids are selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl advantageous, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, Cocoglycerides, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl xylcocoat, C 2 -i 5-alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether and, in particular cetearyl isononanoate.
  • 2-ethylhexyl advantageous, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, Cocoglycerides, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl xylcocoat, C 2 -i 5-alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, di
  • the proportion of the lipids of the preparations according to the invention in the range from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isohexadecan, isododecane; Ci 5 -ig alkane or polydecene advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.
  • Usual colorants which are suitable for use as cosmetic or dermatological compositions in the context of the present invention are lipophilic dyes (eg Sudan Red, DB & C Red 17, DB & C Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, Sudan brown, DB & C Yellow 1 1, DB & C Violet 2, DB & C Orange 5 or Annatto), hydrophilic dyes (eg beetroot juice or methylene blue), pigments, pearlescent pigments and blends of such colorants.
  • the pigments may be white or colored, goniochromatic or non-goniochromatic, inorganic and / or organic, coated or uncoated.
  • inorganic pigments include titanium dioxide which is optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide (ZrO 2), zinc oxide (ZnO), iron oxide (eg Fe 2 O 3), silicon oxide (SiO 2), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum ( Al 2 O 3), or ceria (eg, Ce 2 O 3), and iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese of violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and iron blue
  • the pearlescent pigments may be exemplified by white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially iron blue or chromium oxide mica, titanium mica having an organic pigment of the type mentioned above and pearlescent pigments based on Bismuth oxychloride.
  • the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions.
  • dispersants and / or solubilizers can be added to these predispersions.
  • the lipophilic phase e.g., lipid phase
  • thickeners powder raw materials, pigments and the aqueous phase
  • the powder raw materials and the silica-coated inorganic pigments are intensively dispersed in the water phase with the aid of a dissolver at 1000 rpm.
  • the thickener is dispersed in the lipid phase and slowly added with vigorous stirring to the water phase.
  • the suspension is then neutralized with sodium hydroxide solution to a pH of 6.8-2.7 and stirred for 5 minutes at 1000 rpm.
  • “Stable” means that no or only little phase separation, no or only slight decrease in viscosity, no visually discernible inhomogeneity of the pigment distribution occurs. "Light instability” means that there is a moderate, visible phase separation, or a marked decrease in viscosity, or visually discernible inhomogeneity.
  • Example recipe 1 a 1 b 2a 2b 3a 3b 4a 4b 5a 5b 6a 6b ren /% by weight

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological emulsions, comprising a) at least one pigment from the group of the inorganic white, coloring or colored pigments, which are coated with hydrophilic silica, and b) an aqueous phase, c) one or more polymers from the group of xanthan gum, carrageenan, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, ethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, sodium acrylates copolymer and/or acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, d) one or more stabilizers from the group i) of the powder raw materials and/or ii) of the lipids in a proportion of 0.5 to 5% in relation to the total weight of the preparation.

Description

Beschreibung  description
Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an anorganischen Pigmente, welche mit hydrophilem Silica beschichtet sind, und einem oder mehreren Stabilisatoren. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing inorganic pigments coated with hydrophilic silica and one or more stabilizers.
Die Erfindung betrifft kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an anorganischen Pigmente, welche mit hydrophilem Silica beschichtet sind, und Stabilisatoren. The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing inorganic pigments coated with hydrophilic silica and stabilizers.
Der Wunsch, schön und attraktiv auszusehen, ist seit Tausenden von Jahren in den Menschen verwurzelt. Auch wenn das Schönheitsideal im Laufe der Zeit Wandlungen erfahren hat, so ist das Streben nach einem makellosen Äußeren, immer das Ziel der Menschen gewesen, da ein sympathisches Erscheinungsbild ihr Selbstwertgefühl und die Anziehungskraft auf ihre Mitmenschen erhöht. The desire to look beautiful and attractive has been rooted in people for thousands of years. Even though the ideal of beauty has undergone changes over time, the pursuit of an impeccable appearance has always been the goal of man, since a sympathetic appearance enhances their self-esteem and attraction to their fellow human beings.
Der Begriff der Dekorativen Kosmetik leitet vom lateinischen„decoratio" - das Hervorheben des Schönen - ab. Meist werden dabei mit Hilfe von Farbstoffen einzelne Körperpartien, insbesondere im Gesicht, hervorgehoben und farbliche Uneinheitlichkeiten abgemildert. Das Gesichts-Make-up soll der Gesichtshaut ein natürliches Aussehen verleihen, blasse Haut auffrischen, farbliche Unregelmäßigkeiten der Haut ausgleichen sowie Augen und Lippen besonders betonen. The term "decorative cosmetics" derives from the Latin "decoratio" - the highlighting of the beautiful - with the help of dyes, individual parts of the body, especially on the face, are highlighted and color inconsistencies are lessened Give appearance, refresh pale skin, compensate for color irregularities of the skin as well as emphasize eyes and lips.
Neben Gesichtspudern und Rouge als pulverförmigen Kosmetika sowie stiftförmigen Zubereitungen werden hierzu cremeförmige Präparate, wie Tagescremes und Creme-Make-up auf Emulsionsbasis oder Hydrodispersionsbasis verwendet. Eine besondere Ausführungsform ist die sogenannte Foundation. Als Foundation bezeichnet man dabei flüssige oder halbfeste Make-up-Präparate, die meist Hautfarben sind und auf das Gesicht aufgetragen werden. Sie verleihen ein gleichmäßiges, gesundes, getöntes oder rötliches Aussehen. Ihren Farbton erhalten diese Zubereitungen in der Regel durch eine Mischung aus Pigmenten aus der Gruppe der anorganischen Weiß-, Färb- und/oder Buntpigmente. Um ein gleichmäßiges Hautbild zu erzeugen, sind nach dem Stand der Technik relativ große Mengen an diesen anorganischen Weiß-, Färb- und/oder Buntpigmenten erforderlich. Je größer der Anteil dieser Pigmente in der Zubereitung ist, desto besser wird das Hautbild ausgeglichen. Rötungen und andere optische Hautunregelmäßigkeiten werden überdeckt. In addition to facial powders and rouge as powdered cosmetics and stick-shaped preparations cream-like preparations, such as day creams and cream make-up based on emulsion or hydrodispersion base are used. A particular embodiment is the so-called Foundation. Foundation is liquid or semisolid make-up that is mostly skin colored and applied to the face. They give a uniform, healthy, tinted or reddish appearance. Their color is usually obtained by a mixture of pigments from the group of inorganic white, colored and / or colored pigments. In order to produce a uniform skin appearance, the prior art requires relatively large amounts of these inorganic whitening, coloring and / or colored pigments. The greater the proportion of this Pigments in the preparation, the better the skin is balanced. Redness and other visual skin irregularities are masked.
Nachteilig am Stande der Technik ist jedoch der Umstand, dass Wasser-basierte Founda- tions nur mit einem relativ geringen Pigmentgehalt formuliert werden können, da bei einem zunehmendem Gehalt an unlöslichen Partikeln oder Pigmenten Instabilitäten bzw. rheologi- sche Veränderungen der Suspension, wie zum Beispiel Abnahme der Viskosität, auftreten. Auf der anderen Seite lassen sich jedoch die erwünschten dekorativen Effekte nur mit ausreichend hohen Mengen an Pigmenten erzielen. A disadvantage of the prior art, however, is the fact that water-based foundations can be formulated only with a relatively low pigment content, since with an increasing content of insoluble particles or pigments instabilities or rheological changes of the suspension, such as Decrease in viscosity, occur. On the other hand, however, the desired decorative effects can only be achieved with sufficiently high amounts of pigments.
Es war daher die Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung, eine Wasser-basierte Foundation zu entwickeln, die eine hohe Stabilität aufweist, sich gut auf der Haut verteilen lässt und nach dem Auftragen auf die Haut zu einem gleichmäßigen Hautbild führt und alle optischen Unregelmäßigkeiten wirkungsvoll überdeckt. It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a water-based foundation which has a high stability, can be distributed well on the skin and after application to the skin leads to a uniform skin appearance and effectively covers all optical irregularities.
Anwender stellen an moderne Hautpflegeprodukte, speziell in Form von Cremes für die Anwendung im Gesicht, eine Reihe von Anforderungen. Sie sollen die Haut pflegen, insbesondere die Haut über einen langen Zeitraum mit Feuchtigkeit versorgen. Dieses wird in der Regel über„Moisturizer" realisiert, die Wasser im Stratum Corneum binden (z.B. Glycerin), zudem werden mit zugesetzten Lipiden die oberen Hautschuppen geschmeidig gehalten und der transepidermale Wasserverlust reduziert. Users place a number of demands on modern skincare products, especially in the form of face creams. They should care for the skin, in particular to provide the skin with moisture for a long time. This is usually done via "moisturizers" that bind water in the stratum corneum (e.g., glycerin), and with added lipids, the upper dander is kept supple and the transepidermal water loss is reduced.
Des Weiteren erwarten die Anwender häufig eine Wirkung gegen die Anzeichen von Hautalterung, wie z.B. die Ausbildung von Falten, das Nachlassen der Hautelastizität oder die Entstehung von Altersflecken. Hierzu werden zum einen Wirkstoffe verwendet, die beispielsweise die Aktivität der Hautzellen stimulieren, aber auch verstärkt UV-Filter eingesetzt, die besonders für die Hautalterung verantwortlichen UVA-Strahlen blockieren. Alle diese Inhaltsstoffe stellen eine große Herausforderung für eine angenehme Sensorik dar, da sie nach dem Verdunsten der flüchtigen Bestandteile der Formulierung als Film auf der Haut zurückbleiben, und dort sensorisch vom Verbraucher wahrgenommen werden. Die fühlbaren Rückstände werden dabei oft negativ beschrieben und verhindern das Gefühl, dass das Produkt komplett in die Haut„eingezogen" sei. Furthermore, users often expect an effect against the signs of aging of the skin, e.g. the development of wrinkles, the lessening of skin elasticity or the development of age spots. For this purpose, on the one hand agents are used, for example, stimulate the activity of skin cells, but also increasingly used UV filters that block especially responsible for skin aging UVA rays. All these ingredients pose a great challenge for a pleasant sensory, as they remain as a film on the skin after evaporation of the volatile constituents of the formulation, and sensed by the consumer sensory there. The sensible residues are often described negatively and prevent the feeling that the product is completely "absorbed" in the skin.
Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war es daher, diesen Übelständen entgegenzuwirken. Es war überraschend und für den Fachmann nicht vorhersehbar, dass die der Erfindung zugrundeliegenden Aufgaben gelöst werden durch kosmetische oder dermatologische Emulsionen, umfassend Object of the present invention was therefore to counteract these evils. It was surprising and unforeseeable for a person skilled in the art that the objects on which the invention is based are solved by cosmetic or dermatological emulsions comprising
a) Mindestens ein Pigment aus der Gruppe der anorganischen Weiß-, Färb- oder Buntpigmente, welche mit hydrophilem Silica beschichtet sind und a) at least one pigment from the group of inorganic white, colored or colored pigments, which are coated with hydrophilic silica and
b) eine wässrige Phase, b) an aqueous phase,
c) einen oder mehrere Polymere aus der Gruppe Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan, Hydroxy- popylmethylcellulose, Ethylcellulose, Carboxymethylcellulose, Sodium Acrylates Copo- lymer und / oder Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, c) one or more polymers from the group of xanthan gum, carrageenan, hydroxy-popylmethylcellulose, ethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, sodium acrylate copolymer and / or acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer,
d) einen oder mehrere Stabilisatoren aus der Gruppe d) one or more stabilizers from the group
i) der Puderrohstoffe  i) the powder raw materials
und / oder ii) der Lipide mit einem Anteil von 0,5 bis 5% bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.  and / or ii) the lipids in a proportion of 0.5 to 5% based on the total weight of the preparation.
Es war nicht zu erwarten gewesen, dass die erfindungsgemäßen pigmenthaltigen Emulsionen It was not to be expected that the pigment-containing emulsions according to the invention
durch Puderrohstoffe stabilisiert werden  stabilized by powder raw materials
eine homogener Verteilung der Pigmente auf der Haut ermöglichen  allow a homogeneous distribution of the pigments on the skin
besser als feuchtigkeitsspendende Zubereitungen wirken,  work better than moisturizing preparations,
einfacher zu formulieren sein,  be easier to formulate
besser die Hautglättung fördern,  better promote skin smoothing,
sich durch besser Pflegewirkung auszeichnen,  characterized by better care,
bessere sensorische Eigenschaften, wie beispielsweise das Einzugsvermögen in die Haut, aufweisen würden  better sensory properties, such as the skin's ability to absorb
besser als Vehikel für organische UV-Filter geeignet sind, die Herstellung von stabilen, insbesondere dünnflüssigen Formulierungen ermöglichen als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.  are better suited as a vehicle for organic UV filters, the preparation of stable, especially thin liquid formulations allow as the preparations of the prior art.
Besonders vorteilhafte anorganische Pigmente, welche mit hydrophilem Silica beschichtet sind, stellen die sogenannten„Primrose" Pigmente von der Firma Miyoshi Kasei Inc. dar. Particularly advantageous inorganic pigments which are coated with hydrophilic silica are the so-called "Primrose" pigments from Miyoshi Kasei Inc.
Bevorzugte Vertreter dieser mit Silica beschichteten, hydrophilen, anorganischen Pigmente haben eine durchschnittlichen Teilchengröße von 1 ,0 - 3,0 μηι und haben folgende typische Zusammensetzung: 85,0 - 90,0 % anorganische Pigmente als Kern und 10,0 - 15,0 % Silici- umdioxid (Silica) als Beschichtung. Typische Metalloxide, die in den anorganischen Pigmenten verwendet werden, sind Titandioxid, Eisenoxid, Chromoxid und Manganoxid. Die unter- schiedliche Oxidationszustände des Metalloxids, vor allem des Eisenoxids, sind verantwortlich für die unterschiedliche Farbgebung, wobei es folgende Klassen gibt, die im sogenannten Color Index zusammengefasst werden: Cl 77499 (Schwarz), Cl 77491 (Rot), Cl 77492 (Gelb). Diese anorganischen Weiß-, Färb- und/oder Buntpigmente werden mit einander in der vorliegenden Erfindung kombiniert, um einen bestimmten Farbton zu erzielen. Preferred representatives of these silica-coated, hydrophilic, inorganic pigments have an average particle size of 1, 0-3.0 μm and have the following typical composition: 85.0-90.0% of inorganic pigments as core and 10.0-15.0 % Silicon dioxide (silica) as a coating. Typical metal oxides used in the inorganic pigments are titanium dioxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide and manganese oxide. The sub different oxidation states of the metal oxide, especially the iron oxide, are responsible for the different colors, the following classes are, which are summarized in the so-called Color Index: Cl 77499 (black), Cl 77491 (red), Cl 77492 (yellow). These inorganic whitening, coloring and / or coloring pigments are combined with each other in the present invention to obtain a certain hue.
Bevorzugt enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung 0,01 - 50 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,05 - 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 20 Gew.-% an einem oder mehreren der erfindungsgemäßen Pigmente aus der Gruppe der anorganischen Weiß-, Färb- oder Buntpigmente, welche mit hydrophilem Silica beschichtet sind, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung der Zubereitungen. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, of one or more of the pigments of the invention Group of inorganic whitening, coloring or colored pigments which are coated with hydrophilic silica, based on the total composition of the preparations.
Die wässrige Phase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen enthält gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft ein oder mehrere Polymere, welches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe, Polysaccharide bzw. deren Derivate, z.B. Hyaluronsäure, Xanthangummi, Carrageenan, Celluloseether wie z.B. Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose oder Ethylcellulose, besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Polyacrylate, bevorzugt ein Polyacrylat aus der Gruppe der sogenannten Carbopole, beispielsweise Carbopole der Typen 980, 981 , 1382, 2984, 5984, Ultrez 10, ETD 2020, Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Acryla- tes Copolymer, Carbomer, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination. The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain one or more polymers, which may be advantageously selected from the group, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, carrageenan, cellulose ethers, e.g. Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or ethylcellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called Carbopols, for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, Ultrez 10, ETD 2020, Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates Crosspolymer, sodium acrylate copolymer, carbomer, individually or in combination.
Bevorzugt enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung 0,01 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,05 - 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 2 Gew.-% an einem oder mehreren der erfindungsgemäßen Polymere, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung der Zubereitungen. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.05-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-2% by weight of one or more of the polymers according to the invention on the total composition of the preparations.
Puderrohstoffe oder auch Füllstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind partikuläre Substanzen, die in der Regel keinen Farbeffekt in der kosmetischen Formulierung erzeugen, in der sie eingesetzt werden. Ferner haben erfindungsgemäße Füllstoffe üblicherweise einen niedrigen Brechungsindex und daraus resultierend keine oder eine nur sehr geringe Deckkraft. Powder raw materials or fillers in the context of the present invention are particulate substances which generally do not produce a color effect in the cosmetic formulation in which they are used. Furthermore, fillers according to the invention usually have a low refractive index and, as a result, no or very little opacity.
Der Stand der Technik kennt eine Reihe von Puderrohstoffen, welche eingesetzt werden, um mattierende Effekte auf der Haut zu erlangen oder um Sebum zu absorbieren. Darüber hinaus beeinflusst der Einsatz von Puderrohstoffen im Allgemeinen auch die Verteil- barkeit üblicher Formulierungen auf der Haut sowie die Gleichmäßigkeit eines möglichen Farbeffektes. The prior art knows a number of powder raw materials, which are used to obtain matting effects on the skin or to absorb sebum. In addition, the use of powder raw materials generally also influences the dispersibility of conventional formulations on the skin and the uniformity of a possible color effect.
Die Puderrohstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung werden vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der anorganischen Puderrohstoffe gewählt, beispielsweise aus der Gruppe der Silikate. The powder raw materials in the context of the present invention are advantageously selected from the group of inorganic powder raw materials, for example from the group of silicates.
Silikate sind Salze und Ester (Kieselsäureester) der Orthokieselsäure [Si(OH)4] und deren Kondensationsprodukte. Die Silikate sind nicht nur die artenreichste Klasse der Mineralien, sondern auch geologisch und technisch außerordentlich wichtig. Über 80 % der Erdkruste bestehen aus Silikaten. Silicates are salts and esters (silicic acid esters) of orthosilicic acid [Si (OH) 4 ] and their condensation products. The silicates are not only the most species-rich class of minerals, but also extremely important geologically and technically. Over 80% of the earth's crust is made up of silicates.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Schichtsilikate. Schichtsilikate (Phyllosilikate, Blattsilikate) sind (idealerweise) Silikat-Strukturen mit zweidimensional unendlichen Schichten aus [Si04]4~-Tetraedern, wobei jedes Tetraeder über 3 Brücken-Sauerstoffe mit Nachbar-Tetraedern verbunden ist. For the purposes of the present invention, for example, phyllosilicates are advantageous. Layer silicates (phyllosilicates, leaf silicates) are (ideally) silicate structures with two-dimensionally infinite layers of [Si04] 4 ~ tetrahedra, each tetrahedron being connected to neighboring tetrahedrons via 3 bridging oxygens.
Chemische Formeln lassen sich für Schichtsilikate nur angenähert aufstellen, da sie ein großes lonenaustausch-Vermögen besitzen und Silicium gegen Aluminium und dieses wiederum gegen Magnesium, Fe2+, Fe3+, Zn und dergleichen ausgetauscht werden kann. Die daraus möglicherweise resultierende negative Ladung der Schichten wird in der Regel durch Kationen, insbesondere durch Na+ und Ca2+ in Zwischenschicht-Positionen ausgeglichen. Chemical formulas can only be approximated for phyllosilicates because they have a large ion exchange capacity and silicon can be exchanged for aluminum and this in turn against magnesium, Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Zn and the like. The resulting possibly negative charge of the layers is usually compensated by cations, in particular by Na + and Ca 2+ in interlayer positions.
Schichtsilikate können durch reversible Einlagerung von Wasser (in der 2- bis 7-fachen Menge) und anderen Substanzen wie z. B. Alkoholen, Glykolen und dergleichen mehr aufquellen. Ihre Verwendung als Verdickungsmittel in kosmetischen Mitteln ist dementsprechend an sich bekannt. Allerdings konnte der Stand der Technik nicht den Weg zur vorliegenden Erfindung weisen. Phyllosilicates can be obtained by reversible storage of water (in the 2- to 7-fold amount) and other substances such. As alcohols, glycols and the like swell. Their use as thickeners in cosmetic products is accordingly known per se. However, the prior art could not point the way to the present invention.
Vorteilhafte Schichtsilikate, welche im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden können, sind beispielsweise solche, deren größte Ausdehnungsrichtung im unmodifizierten und ungequollenen Zustand im Mittel eine Länge von weniger als 10 μηι hat. Beispielsweise können die mittleren Ausdehnungen der verwendeten modifizierten Schichtsilikatpartikel bei 1000 nm x 100 nm x 1 nm und darunter liegen. Die effektive Größe der modifizierten Schichtsilikatpartikel in einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung hängt selbstverständlich von der Menge an eingelagerten Substanzen ab. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte (Schicht-) Silikate sind insbesondere: Advantageous phyllosilicates which can be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, those whose largest expansion direction in the unmodified and unswollen state has an average length of less than 10 μm. For example, the mean extents of the modified layered silicate particles used may be 1000 nm × 100 nm × 1 nm and less. The effective size of the modified layered silicate particles in a cosmetic or dermatological formulation of course depends on the amount of stored substances. Particularly advantageous (layered) silicates according to the invention are:
=> Talkum: Mg3 [Si4Oio] (OH)2, => Talc: Mg 3 [Si 4 Oio] (OH) 2 ,
Kaolin: AI2[Si205] (OH)4 Kaolin: Al 2 [Si 2 O 5 ] (OH) 4
=> Montmorillonit: M+ AI [S12O5 OH), auch Smektite genannt. Darunter fallen: => Montmorillonite: M + Al [S12O5 OH], also called smectites. These include:
• Bentonite = Montmorillonite mit Ca (Füller Erden) oder Na (Wyoming Bentonite) Hektorite: M+o,3(Mg2,7Lio,3)[Si40io(OH)2], worin M+ meist Na+ darstellt,Bentonite = montmorillonite with Ca (filler earth) or Na (Wyoming bentonite) hectorite: M + o, 3 (Mg2,7Lio, 3) [Si40io (OH) 2 ], where M + is mostly Na + ,
=> Glimmer (Mica), ein Alumosilikat, das leicht spaltbar ist und in tafeligen Kristallen vorliegt. Glimmer ist transparent bis durchscheinend und weist Perlglanz auf. Die wichtigste Form ist Muskovit: K Al2 [AIS13O10] (OH, F)2. Sericite ist eine Sonderform des Glimmers, die kleinere Plättchen als Muskovit aufweist. => Mica, an aluminosilicate that is easily fissile and is present in tabular crystals. Mica is transparent to translucent and has pearlescence. The most important form is muscovite: K Al 2 [AIS13O10] (OH, F) 2 . Sericite is a special form of mica that has smaller platelets than muscovite.
=> Magnesiumsilikat Mg2 [S14O10] => Magnesium silicate Mg 2 [S14O10]
Auch Siliciumoxide (Si02) sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind beispielsweise Aerosile (fumed Silica), welche hochdisperse Kieselsäuren mit häufig irregulärer Form sind, deren spezifische Oberfläche in der Regel sehr groß ist (200 - 400 m2/ g) und mit Hilfe des Herstellverfahrens gesteuert werden kann. Aerosile werden auch bezeichnet als: Amorphous Silica Amorphous Silicon Oxide Hydrate Silica, Amorphous Silicic Anhydride Silicon Dioxide Silicon Dioxide. Also, silicon oxides (Si0 2 ) are to be used advantageously in the context of the present invention. Aerosils (fumed silica), which are highly disperse silicas with frequently irregular shape, whose specific surface area is generally very large (200-400 m 2 / g) and which can be controlled by means of the production process, are preferred according to the invention. Aerosils are also referred to as: Amorphous Silica Amorphous Silicon Oxide Hydrate Silica, Amorphous Silicic Anhydride Silicon Dioxide Silicon Dioxide.
Siliciumoxide lassen sich auch in sphärischer Form herstellen, wobei hier die spezifische Oberfläche kleiner ist als bei den Aerosilen, da die Teilchen größer und rund sind. Ein Beispiel hierfür sind die Ronaspheren (mittlerer Teilchendurchmesser < 3 μ) der Fa. Merck. Silicon oxides can also be produced in a spherical form, in which case the specific surface area is smaller than in the aerosils, since the particles are larger and round. An example of this is the Ronaspheren (average particle diameter <3 μ) from the company Merck.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Puderrohstoffe sind Siliciumdioxide, deren freien OH- Gruppen an der Teilchenoberfläche (ganz oder teilweise) organisch modifiziert sind. Further preferred powder raw materials according to the invention are silicas whose free OH groups on the particle surface are (completely or partially) organically modified.
Vorteilhaft sind z. B. die durch Addition von Dimethylsilyl-Gruppen erhältlichen Silica Dime- thyl Silyiate, wie beispielsweise Aerosil R972 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil R974 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-610 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL TS-720 (Cabot), Wacker HDK H15 (Wacker-Che- mie), Wacker HDK H18 (Wacker-Chemie) und/oder Wacker HDK H20 (Wacker-Chemie). Advantageous z. For example, the obtainable by the addition of dimethylsilyl groups silica dimethyl Silyiate, such as Aerosil R972 (Degussa Hüls), Aerosil R974 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-610 (Cabot), CAB-O-SIL TS -720 (Cabot), Wacker HDK H15 (Wacker chemistry), Wacker HDK H18 (Wacker chemistry) and / or Wacker HDK H20 (Wacker chemistry).
Ferner vorteilhaft sind die durch Addition von Trimethylsilylgruppen erhältlichen Silica Silyiate (z. B. Aerosil R 812 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-530 (Cabot), Sipernat D 17 (Degussa Hüls), Wacker HDK H2000 (Wacker-Chemie)). Also advantageous are the silicates obtainable by addition of trimethylsilyl groups (eg Aerosil R 812 (Degussa Hüls), CAB-O-SIL TS-530 (Cabot), Sipernat D 17 (Degussa Hüls), Wacker HDK H2000 (Wacker). Chemistry)).
Ferner vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind die durch Hydrolyse- und Kondensationsreaktionen von Methyltrimethoxysilane erhältlichen Polymethylsilsesquioxane, die ebenfalls eine runde Form besitzen und deren Teilchengrößenverteilung durch die Herstellung gesteuert werden kann. Also advantageous in the context of the present invention are the polymethylsilsesquioxanes obtainable by hydrolysis and condensation reactions of methyltrimethoxysilanes also have a round shape and their particle size distribution can be controlled by the production.
Bevorzugte Polymethylsilsesquioxane werden beispielsweise unter den Handelsnamen Tospearl 2000 B von GE Bayer Silikones, Tospearl 145A von Toshiba, AEC Silicone Resin Spheres von A & E Connock sowie Wacker - Belsil PMS MK von der Wacker-Chemie angeboten. Preferred polymethylsilsesquioxanes are available, for example, under the trade names Tospearl 2000 B from GE Bayer Silikones, Tospearl 145A from Toshiba, AEC Silicone Resin Spheres from A & E Connock and Wacker-Belsil PMS MK from Wacker-Chemie.
Weiterer vorteilhafter Puderrohstoff im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist Bornitrid. Bornitrid ist isoelektronisch mit Kohlenstoff (d. h. es sind Graphit- und Diamantform möglich). Bornitrid zeichnet sich durch seine chemische Inertheit aus. Another advantageous powder raw material in the context of the present invention is boron nitride. Boron nitride is isoelectronic with carbon (i.e., graphite and diamond shapes are possible). Boron nitride is characterized by its chemical inertness.
Vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise die im Folgenden aufgelisteten Bornitrid: For the purposes of the present invention, for example, the boron nitride listed below are advantageous:
Handelsname erhältlich bei : Trade name available from:
Boron Nitride Powder Advanced Ceramics  Boron Nitride Powder Advanced Ceramics
Boron Nitride Powder Sintec Keramik  Boron Nitride Powder Sintec ceramic
Ceram Blanche Kawasaki  Ceram Blanche Kawasaki
HCST Boron Nitride Stark  HCST Boron Nitride Strong
Tres BN® Carborundum Tres BN® carborundum
Wacker-Bornitrid BNP Wacker-Chemie  Wacker boron nitride BNP Wacker-Chemie
Die Puderrohstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung werden darüber hinaus vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der organischen Puderrohstoffe gewählt. The powder raw materials in the context of the present invention are also advantageously selected from the group of organic powder raw materials.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte organische Puderrohstoffen sind z. B. natürliche Polymere, wie mikrokristalline. According to the invention advantageous organic powder raw materials are z. B. natural polymers, such as microcrystalline.
Weitere vorteilhafte organische Puderrohstoffe sind ferner Stärke und Stärkederivate, wie: => Maisstärke Zea Mays (Amidon De Mais MST (Wackherr), Argo Brand Com StarchFurther advantageous organic powder raw materials are also starch and starch derivatives, such as: corn starch Zea Mays (Amidon de maize MST (Wackherr), Argo Brand Com Starch
(Com Products), Pure-Dent (Grain Processing), Purity 21 C (National Starch)), => Reisstärke (D.S.A. 7 (Agrana Stärke), Oryzapearl (Ichimaru Pharcos)), (Com Products), Pure-Dent (Grain Processing), Purity 21 C (National Starch)), => Rice Starch (D.S.A. 7 (Agrana Starch), Oryzapearl (Ichimaru Pharcos)),
Distarch Phosphate (Com P04 (Agrana Stärke), Com P04 (Tri-K)),  Distarch Phosphate (Com P04 (Agrana Starch), Com P04 (Tri-K)),
Sodium Com Starch Octenylsuccinate (C* EmCap - Instant 12639 (Cerestar USA)), => Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate (Covafluid AMD (Wackherr), Dry Flo-PC (NationalSodium Com Starch Octenylsuccinate (C * EmCap - Instant 12639 (Cerestar USA)), => Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (Covafluid AMD (Wackherr), Dry Flo-PC (National
Starch), Dry Flo Pure (National Starch), Fluidamid DF 12 (Roquette)), Tapioca Starch (Tapioca Pure - (Akzo Nobel)) Starch), Dry Flo Pure (National Starch), Fluidamide DF 12 (Roquette)), Tapioca Starch (Tapioca Pure - (Akzo Nobel))
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte organische Puderrohstoffe sind auch synthetische Polymere, d. h. Polymerpartikel, welche in der Zubereitung in Form von Feststoffen vorliegen, wie beispielsweise Polycarbonate, Polyether, Polyethylen, Polypropylen, Polyvinylchlorid, Polystyrol, Polyamide, Polyurethane, Polyacrylate und dergleichen mehr. Besonders vorteilhaft ist z. B. die Substanz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, welche unter der Bezeichnung BPD-500/Plastic Powder D von der Firma Kobo erhältlich ist. According to preferred organic powder raw materials are also synthetic polymers, d. H. Polymer particles which are present in the preparation in the form of solids, such as polycarbonates, polyethers, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, polyamides, polyurethanes, polyacrylates and the like. Particularly advantageous is z. B. the substance with the INCI name HDI / trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, which is available under the name BPD-500 / Plastic Powder D from Kobo.
Weitere vorteilhafte organische Puderrohstoffe sind: Further advantageous organic powder raw materials are:
=> PMMA: Polymethylmethacrylate => PMMA: polymethyl methacrylates
=> Polyethylene Spheres => Polyethylene spheres
=> Polyurethane => Polyurethanes
=> Silikon Resins: Trimethylsiloxysilicate (z. B. SR 1000 GE Bayer Silicones)  => Silicone Resins: Trimethylsiloxysilicate (eg SR 1000 GE Bayer Silicones)
=> Silikonelastomere => Silicone elastomers
Weitere besonders vorteilhafte Silikonelastomere können gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymere, wobei das Dow Corning® EP-9801 Hydro Cosmetic Powder von Dow Corning hervorzuheben ist (INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Silica). Other particularly advantageous silicone elastomers can be selected from the group of vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers, wherein Dow Corning's Dow Corning® EP-9801 Hydro Cosmetic Powder is to be emphasized (INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Silica).
Weiterhin bevorzugt ist auch Lauroyllysin, das unter der Bezeichnung Amihope LL von Ajino- moto vertrieben wird. Also preferred is lauroyl lysine, which is sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amihope LL.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Puderrohstoffe kommen aus der Gruppe der anorganischen oder organischen Siliziumverbindungen. Powder raw materials preferred according to the invention come from the group of inorganic or organic silicon compounds.
Von den anorganischen Siliziumverbindungen sind besonders bevorzugt die Schichtsilikate. Davon besonders bevorzugt sind Kaolin, Talkum und Mica.  Of the inorganic silicon compounds, the layer silicates are particularly preferred. Of these, kaolin, talc and mica are particularly preferred.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß von Vorteil, wenn die Zubereitungen, dadurch gekennzeichnet sind, dass sie 0,1 Gew.-% bis 20 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,2 Gew.-% bis 15 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,5 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, an einem oder mehreren Puderrohstoffen enthalten. It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparations are characterized in that they contain 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably 0.2% by weight to 15% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight. 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of one or more powder raw materials.
Als Grundbestandteile der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können verwendet werden: As basic components of the preparations according to the invention can be used:
Wasser oder wässrige Lösungen  Water or aqueous solutions
wässrige ethanolische Lösungen natürliche Öle und/oder chemisch modifizierte natürliche Öle und/oder synthetische Öle; aqueous ethanolic solutions natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils;
Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol o- der Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;  Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Butylenglykol, Methylpropandiol, Glycerin, Ethylengly- kol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -mo- noethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.  Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, methylpropanediol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.
Insbesondere werden Gemische der vorstehend genannten Lösungsmittel verwendet. In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used.
Die erfindungsgemäße Öl- bzw. Lipidphase kann dabei alle in kosmetischen Zubereitungen üblichen Öle, Fette, Wachse und/oder Lipide enthalten. The oil or lipid phase according to the invention may contain all oils, fats, waxes and / or lipids customary in cosmetic preparations.
Der Lipide im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist erfindungsgemäß im Wesentlichen frei von Silikonölen. Toleriert werden kann ein Gehalt von maximal 0,95 Gewichts-%, bevorzugt höchstens 0,5 Gewichts-%, noch besser höchstens 0,1 Gewichts-% an einem oder mehreren bei Raumtemperatur flüssigen Silikonölen. The lipids according to the present invention is substantially free of silicone oils according to the invention. A content of not more than 0.95% by weight, preferably not more than 0.5% by weight, more preferably not more than 0.1% by weight, of one or more silicone oils which are liquid at room temperature can be tolerated.
Indessen ist es bevorzugt, die Olkomponenten der Lipidphase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen vollständig oder weitestgehend vollständig aus der Gruppe der Öle synthetischen und/oder natürlichen Ursprungs zu wählen. Diese können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctyl- stearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, Cetearylisononanoat, Isodecylneopentanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, Coco-Caprylat/Caprat, Oley- loleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, z.B. Jojobaöl. Ferner kann die Lipidphase teilweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, der Dialkylether, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkohole, sowie der Fettsäuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, z.B. Caprylic Capric Triglycerid, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Mandelöl und dergleichen mehr. However, it is preferred to choose the oil components of the lipid phase of the preparations according to the invention completely or largely completely from the group of oils of synthetic and / or natural origin. These can then be advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, coco-caprylate / caprate, Olefinoleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil. In addition, the lipid phase can be advantageously selected in part from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12- 18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as Caprylic Capric triglyceride, sunflower oil, soybean oil, almond oil and the like.
Vorteilhaft werden die Lipide gewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyldodeca- nol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isodecylneopentanoat, Cocoglycerides, Isoeicosan, 2-Ethylhe- xylcocoat, Ci2-i 5-Alkylbenzoat, Capryl-Caprinsäure-triglycerid, Dicaprylylether sowie insbesondere Cetearylisononanoat. The lipids are selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl advantageous, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, Cocoglycerides, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl xylcocoat, C 2 -i 5-alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether and, in particular cetearyl isononanoate.
Erfindungsgemäß ist es möglich und vorteilhaft, den Anteil der Lipide der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen im Bereich von 0,5 bis 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, frei zu wählen According to the invention, it is possible and advantageous to freely choose the proportion of the lipids of the preparations according to the invention in the range from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations
Von den Kohlenwasserstoffen sind Paraffinöl, Squalan, hydriertes Polyisobuten, Isohexade- can, Isododecan; Ci5-ig Alkan bzw. Polydecen vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden. Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isohexadecan, isododecane; Ci 5 -ig alkane or polydecene advantageous to use in the context of the present invention.
Es ist dem Fachmanne natürlich bekannt, dass anspruchsvolle kosmetische Zusammensetzungen zumeist nicht ohne die üblichen Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe denkbar sind. Darunter zählen beispielsweise Konsistenzgeber, Füllstoffe, Parfüm, Farbstoffe, Emulgatoren, Pigments, zusätzliche Wirkstoffe wie Vitamine oder Proteine, Lichtschutzmittel, Stabilisatoren, Insekten- repellentien, Alkohol, Wasser, Salze, antimikrobiell, proteolytisch oder keratolytisch wirksame Substanzen usw. Of course, it is known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are generally not conceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, pigments, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic substances, etc.
Übliche Farbmittel, welche sich für die Verwendung als kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eignen, sind lipophilen Farbstoffen (z.B. Sudanrot, DB&C Red 17, DB&C Green 6, ß-Carotin, Sudanbraun, DB&C Yellow 1 1 , DB&C Violet 2, DB&C Orange 5 oder Annatto), hydrophile Farbstoffe (z.B. Rote Beete-Saft oder Methylenblau), Pigmenten, Perlglanzpigmenten sowie Abmischungen aus solchen Farbmitteln. Die Pigmente können weiß oder farbig, goniochromatisch oder nicht goniochromatisch, anorganisch und/oder organisch, beschichtet oder nicht beschichtet sein. Zu den anorganischen Pigmenten, die angegeben werden können, gehören Titandioxid, das optional oberflächenbehandelt ist, Zirconiumoxid (Zr02), Zinkoxid (ZnO), Eisenoxid (z.B. Fe203), Siliciumoxid (Si02), Mangans (z. B. MnO), Aluminiums (AI203), oder Ceroxid (z. B. Ce203), sowie Eisenoxid, Chromoxid, Mang an violett, Ultramarinblau, Chromhydrat und Eisenblau Usual colorants which are suitable for use as cosmetic or dermatological compositions in the context of the present invention are lipophilic dyes (eg Sudan Red, DB & C Red 17, DB & C Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan brown, DB & C Yellow 1 1, DB & C Violet 2, DB & C Orange 5 or Annatto), hydrophilic dyes (eg beetroot juice or methylene blue), pigments, pearlescent pigments and blends of such colorants. The pigments may be white or colored, goniochromatic or non-goniochromatic, inorganic and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Among the inorganic pigments which may be mentioned include titanium dioxide which is optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide (ZrO 2), zinc oxide (ZnO), iron oxide (eg Fe 2 O 3), silicon oxide (SiO 2), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum ( Al 2 O 3), or ceria (eg, Ce 2 O 3), and iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese of violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and iron blue
Die Perlglanzpigmente können unter weißen Perlglanzpigmenten, wie Glimmer, der mit Titan oder mit Bismutoxidchlorid überzogen ist, farbigen Perlglanzpigmenten, wie Titanglimmer mit Eisenoxiden, Titanglimmer mit vor allem Eisenblau oder Chromoxid, Titanglimmer mit einem organischen Pigment vom oben erwähnten Typ und Perlglanzpigmente auf der Basis von Bismutoxidchlorid ausgewählt werden. The pearlescent pigments may be exemplified by white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially iron blue or chromium oxide mica, titanium mica having an organic pigment of the type mentioned above and pearlescent pigments based on Bismuth oxychloride.
Die Pigmente können vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung auch in Form kommerziell erhältlicher öliger oder wässriger Vordispersionen zur Anwendung kommen. Diesen Vordispersionen können vorteilhaft Dispergierhilfsmittel und/oder Solubilisationsvermittler zugesetzt sein. Within the meaning of the present invention, the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Advantageously, dispersants and / or solubilizers can be added to these predispersions.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen bezogen. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.
Zur Herstellung von 100 Gramm der erfindungsgemäßen Suspension werden die lipophile Phase (z.B. Lipidphase), Verdicker, Puderrohstoffe, Pigmente und die wässrige Phase separat eingewogen. Die Puderrohstoffe und die Silica-beschichteten anorganischen Pigmente werden in der Wassserphase mit der Hilfe einen Dissolver bei 1 000 rpm intensiv dispergiert. Der Verdicker wird in der Lipidphase dispergiert und unter intensivem Rühren langsam zur Wasserphase hinzugegeben. Die Suspension wird dann mit Natronlauge auf einen pH Wert von pH 6.8 - 7.2 neutralisiert und 5 Minuten bei 1 000 rpm gerührt. To prepare 100 grams of the suspension of the invention, the lipophilic phase (e.g., lipid phase), thickeners, powder raw materials, pigments and the aqueous phase are weighed separately. The powder raw materials and the silica-coated inorganic pigments are intensively dispersed in the water phase with the aid of a dissolver at 1000 rpm. The thickener is dispersed in the lipid phase and slowly added with vigorous stirring to the water phase. The suspension is then neutralized with sodium hydroxide solution to a pH of 6.8-2.7 and stirred for 5 minutes at 1000 rpm.
Zur Bestimmung der Lagerstabilität werden alle Suspensionsproben in verschraubten 30 mL Gläsern bei unterschiedlichen Temperaturen gelagert: bei Raumtemperatur (RT) (ca. 20°C) und bei +50 °C. tabilität wurde nach 7, 14, 21 , 30 und 60 Tagen (T) visuell bewertet. To determine storage stability, all suspension samples are stored in screw-retained 30 mL glasses at different temperatures: at room temperature (RT) (about 20 ° C) and at +50 ° C. stability was assessed visually after 7, 14, 21, 30 and 60 days (T).
Dow Corning® Dow Corning®
Distarch  Distarch
Tapio- EP-9801 Hydro Tapio EP-9801 Hydro
Polymere// Puderrohstoffe Ölphase Phoscastärke Cosmetic Pow- phate Polymers // Powder Raw Materials Oil Phase PhosCoke Cosmetic Pow- phate
der  of the
Beispielre¬ Beispielre¬
Beispielrezeptur 3a Example recipe 3a
zeptur 1 a Beispielrezeptur zeptur 1 a Example recipe
Mit Cetearyl RT - Stabil With Cetearyl RT - Stable
RT - Stabil 5a  RT - Stable 5a
Isononano- 60T  Isononano-60T
60T RT - Stabil 60T ate B50 - 60T RT - Stable 60T ate B50 -
Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl B50 - Stabil B50 - Stabil 60T Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl B50 - Stable B50 - Stable 60T
Leicht inAcrylate Crosspolymer 60T  Easy in Acrylate Crosspolymer 60T
stabil 60T  stable 60T
(Pemulen TR-1 NF Lubri-(Pemulen TR-1 NF Lubricants
BeispielreBeispielrezol) BeispielreBeispielrezol)
zeptur 1 b zeptur 3b Beispielrezeptur zeptur 1 b zeptur 3b Example recipe
Ohne RT - Instabil RT - Stabil 5b Without RT - Unstable RT - Stable 5b
Ölphase 21 T 60T RT - Stabil 60T  Oil phase 21 T 60T RT - Stable 60T
B50 - InstaB50 - InB50 - Stabil 60T bil 7T stabil 60T  B50 - InstaB50 - InB50 - Stable 60T bil 7T stable 60T
Beispielre¬ Beispielre¬
Beispielrezeptur 4a Example recipe 4a
zeptur 2a RT - Beispielrezeptur zeptur 2a RT - Example recipe
Mit Cetearyl With cetearyl
RT - Stabil Leicht in6a  RT - Stable Light in6a
Isononano- 60T stabil 60T RT - Stabil 60T ate  Isononano-60T stable 60T RT - stable 60T ate
Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl B50 - Stabil B50 - B50 - Stabil 60T Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl B50 - Stable B50 - B50 - Stable 60T
Acrylate Crosspolymer 60T Leicht in¬Acrylate Crosspolymer 60T Slightly in¬
(Pemulen TR-2 NF Lubri- stabil 60T (Pemulen TR-2 NF Lubri- stable 60T
zol) BeispielreBeispielrezeptur 2b zeptur 4b Beispielrezepturzol) Sample Recipe Recipe 2b zeptur 4b Example Recipe
Ohne RT - Instabil RT - Insta6b Without RT - Instable RT - Insta6b
Ölphase 60T bil 14T RT - Instabil 14T  Oil phase 60T bil 14T RT - Unstable 14T
B50 - Leicht B50 - InB50 - Instabil 7T instabil 60T stabil 14T  B50 - Light B50 - InB50 - Unstable 7T unstable 60T stable 14T
„Stabil" bedeutet, dass keine oder nur geringe Phasentrennung, keine oder nur geringe Abnahme der Viskosität, keine visuell erkennbaren Inhomogenität der Pigmentverteilung auftritt. „Leichte Instabilität" bedeutet, dass es zu einer moderaten, sichtbaren Phasentrennung oder deutlich sichtbaren Abnahme der Viskosität oder zu visuell erkennbaren Inhomogenität kommt. "Stable" means that no or only little phase separation, no or only slight decrease in viscosity, no visually discernible inhomogeneity of the pigment distribution occurs. "Light instability" means that there is a moderate, visible phase separation, or a marked decrease in viscosity, or visually discernible inhomogeneity.
„Instabil" bedeutet schnelle, vollständige Phasentrennung. "Unstable" means fast, complete phase separation.
Diese Experimente haben gezeigt, dass die Wasser-basierte Dispersions von Silica beschichtete anorganische Pigmente durch die Zugabe einer Ölphase und/oder einen Puderrohstoff stabilisiert wurden. These experiments have shown that the water-based dispersions of silica-coated inorganic pigments have been stabilized by the addition of an oil phase and / or a powder raw material.
T = Tage T = days
Beispielrezeptu- 1 a 1 b 2a 2b 3a 3b 4a 4b 5a 5b 6a 6b ren/Gew.-% Example recipe 1 a 1 b 2a 2b 3a 3b 4a 4b 5a 5b 6a 6b ren /% by weight
Tapiocastärke 1 1 1 1  Tapioca starch 1 1 1 1
Distarch Phos1 1 1 1  Distarch Phos1 1 1 1
phate phosphates
Dow Corning® EP- 1 1 1 1 9801 Hydro Cos- metic Powder  Dow Corning® EP-1 1 1 1 9801 Hydro Cos- metic Powder
Cetearyl Isononano- 4 4 4 4 4 4 ate  Cetearyl Isononano- 4 4 4 4 4 4 ate
Acrylates/C 10-30 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1  Acrylates / C 10-30 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Alkyl Acrylate Alkyl acrylates
Crosspolymer Crosspolymer
(Pemulen TR-1 NF (Pemulen TR-1 NF
Lubrizol) Lubrizol)
Acrylates/C 10-30 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 Alkyl Acrylate  Acrylates / C 10-30 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Alkyl Acrylates
Crosspolymer Crosspolymer
(Pemulen TR-2 NF (Pemulen TR-2 NF
Lubrizol) Lubrizol)
Natronlauge (45%- 0,09 0,09 0,09 0,09 0,09 0,09 0,09 0,09 0,09 0,09 0,09 0,09 ig)  Sodium hydroxide solution (45% - 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 0.09 ig)
Silica beschichtete 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 anorganischen  Silica coated 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 inorganic
Pigmente [(Cl Pigments [(Cl
77499, Cl 77491 , Cl 77499, Cl 77491, Cl
77891 , Cl 77492) + 77891, Cl 77492) +
Silica] - PRIMROSE Silica] - PRIMROSE
Wasser Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad  Water Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad Ad
100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Beispielrezeptur 7 Gew.-%100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Example recipe 7% by weight
Dow Corning® EP-9801 Hydro Cosmetic 5,0 Powder Dow Corning® EP-9801 Hydro Cosmetic 5.0 Powder
Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspoly- 0,15 mer  Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates Crosspoly- 0.15 mer
(Pemulen TR-1 NF Lubrizol)  (Pemulen TR-1 NF Lubrizole)
Butylene Glycol 4,0 Butylene Glycol 4.0
Phenoxyethanol 0.8Phenoxyethanol 0.8
Cetearyl Isononanoate 4,0Cetearyl Isononanoate 4.0
Glycerin 10Glycerol 10
Natronlauge (45%-ig) 0,1Sodium hydroxide solution (45%) 0.1
Ethanol 2,0Ethanol 2.0
Silica beschichtete anorganischen Pig6,0 mente [(Cl 77499, Cl 77491 , Cl 77891 , Cl Silica coated inorganic pigments [(Cl 77499, Cl 77491, Cl 77891, Cl
77492) + Silica] - PRIMROSE  77492) + silica] - PRIMROSE
Wasser Ad 100  Water Ad 100
Beispielrezeptur 9 Gew.-% Example recipe 9% by weight
Tapiocastärke 3,0Tapioca starch 3.0
Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose 0,5Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose 0.5
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer 0,2Sodium acrylate copolymer 0.2
Hexandiol 0,5Hexanediol 0.5
Phenoxyethanol 0.8Phenoxyethanol 0.8
Cetearyl Isononanoate 4,0Cetearyl Isononanoate 4.0
Glycerin 3,0Glycerol 3.0
Natronlauge (45%-ig) 0,1Sodium hydroxide solution (45%) 0.1
Panthenol 1 ,0Panthenol 1, 0
Silica beschichtete anorganischen Pig10,0 mente [(Cl 77499, Cl 77491 , Cl 77891 , Cl Silica coated inorganic pigments [(Cl 77499, Cl 77491, Cl 77891, Cl
77492) + Silica] - PRIMROSE  77492) + silica] - PRIMROSE
Wasser Ad 100  Water Ad 100

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1 . Kosmetische oder dermatologische Emulsionen, umfassend 1 . Cosmetic or dermatological emulsions comprising
a) Mindestens ein Pigment aus der Gruppe der anorganischen Weiß-, Färb- oder Buntpigmente, welche mit hydrophilem Silica beschichtet sind und  a) at least one pigment from the group of inorganic white, colored or colored pigments, which are coated with hydrophilic silica and
b) eine wässrige Phase,  b) an aqueous phase,
c) einen oder mehrere Polymere aus der Gruppe Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan, Hyd- roxypopylmethylcellulose, Ethylcellulose, Carboxymethylcellulose, Sodium Ac- rylates Copolymer und / oder Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer. d) einen oder mehrere Stabilisatoren aus der Gruppe,  c) one or more polymers from the group of xanthan gum, carrageenan, hydroxypopylmethylcellulose, ethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, sodium acrylate copolymer and / or acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. d) one or more stabilizers from the group,
i) der Puderrohstoffe  i) the powder raw materials
und / oder  and or
ii) der Lipide mit einem Anteil von 0,5 bis 5% bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.  ii) the lipids in a proportion of 0.5 to 5% based on the total weight of the preparation.
2. Zubereitungen nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie 0,01 - 50 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,05 - 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 20 Gew.-% an einem oder mehreren der erfindungsgemäßen Pigment aus der Gruppe der anorganischen Weiß-, Färb- oder Buntpigmente, welche mit hydrophilem Silica beschichtet sind, enthalten, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung der Zubereitungen. 2. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are 0.01 - 50 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 - 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 20 wt .-% of one or more the pigment according to the invention from the group of inorganic white, colored or colored pigments which are coated with hydrophilic silica, based on the total composition of the preparations.
3. Zubereitungen nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie 0,01 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,05 - 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 2 Gew.-% an einem oder mehreren Polymeren enthalten. 3. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-% of one or more Contain polymers.
4. Zubereitungen nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der oder die Puderrohstoffe gewählt wird oder werden aus der Gruppe Polyme- thylsilsesquioxane, Titandioxiden, Stärke und ihre Derivate (insbesondere Tapioka- stärke, Maissärke, Distärkephosphat, Aluminium Stärke octenyl succinat), Talkum, Si- loxanelastomere, insbesondere Dimethicone / Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer. 4. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the powder or raw materials or is selected from the group polymethylsilsesquioxanes, titanium dioxides, starch and its derivatives (especially tapioca starch, corn starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum starch octenyl succinate), Talcum, siloxane elastomers, in particular dimethicone / vinyldimethicone crosspolymer.
5. Zubereitungen nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie 0,1 bis 20,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,2 bis 15,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, an einem oder mehreren Puderrohstoffen, enthalten. 5. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 20.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 15.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 10.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the preparation, of one or more powder raw materials.
6. Zubereitungen nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Lipide gewählt wird aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyldodecanol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isodecylneopentanoat, Cocoglycerides, Isoeicosan, 2-Ethylhe- xylcocoat, Ci2-i 5-Alkylbenzoat, Capryl-Caprinsäure-triglycerid, Dicaprylylether sowie insbesondere Cetearylisononanoat. 6. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipids is chosen from the group xylcocoat 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, Cocoglycerides, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl, 2 Ci -i 5-alkyl benzoate, caprylic Capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ethers and especially cetearyl isononanoate.
7. Zubereitungen nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie 0,5 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, an dem Lipide, enthalten. 7. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they contain 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation, of the lipids.
EP18700100.3A 2017-02-27 2018-01-05 Cosmetic or dermatological preparations having a content of inorganic pigments, which are coated with hydrophilic silica, and having one or more stabilizers Withdrawn EP3585352A1 (en)

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DE102017203113.1A DE102017203113A1 (en) 2017-02-27 2017-02-27 Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing inorganic pigments coated with hydrophilic silica and one or more stabilizers
PCT/EP2018/050267 WO2018153555A1 (en) 2017-02-27 2018-01-05 Cosmetic or dermatological preparations having a content of inorganic pigments, which are coated with hydrophilic silica, and having one or more stabilizers

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CN112569127A (en) * 2020-12-30 2021-03-30 广州澳希亚实业有限公司 Liquid oily composition and preparation method and application thereof

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US4119712A (en) 1977-07-25 1978-10-10 Revlon, Inc. Makeup foundations
DE19834821A1 (en) * 1998-08-01 2000-02-03 Beiersdorf Ag Emulsifier-free finely dispersed systems of the oil-in-water and water-in-oil type
DE19834820A1 (en) * 1998-08-01 2000-02-03 Beiersdorf Ag Emulsifier-free finely dispersed systems of the oil-in-water and water-in-oil type
EP1250915A1 (en) * 2001-04-19 2002-10-23 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Cosmetic and dermatologic compositions comprising high electrolyt contents
DE10355711A1 (en) * 2003-11-26 2005-06-16 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic and dermatological emulsions containing creatine and / or creatinine and electrolyte concentrations, an ionic strength of at least 50 mmol / l
DE102004005366A1 (en) 2004-02-03 2005-08-18 Eckart Gmbh & Co.Kg Cosmetic preparation containing a metal pigment
US7476395B2 (en) * 2006-04-11 2009-01-13 Conopco, Inc. Cosmetic composition with soft focus properties
DE102010049375A1 (en) 2010-10-26 2012-04-26 Merck Patent Gmbh pigments
DE102011055072A1 (en) 2011-11-04 2013-05-08 Eckart Gmbh Coated, wet-chemically oxidized aluminum effect pigments, process for their preparation, coating compositions and coated articles

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