EP3519059A1 - Produits de soin capillaire à effet de conditionnement amélioré assurant une protection contre la perte de couleur - Google Patents

Produits de soin capillaire à effet de conditionnement amélioré assurant une protection contre la perte de couleur

Info

Publication number
EP3519059A1
EP3519059A1 EP17742230.0A EP17742230A EP3519059A1 EP 3519059 A1 EP3519059 A1 EP 3519059A1 EP 17742230 A EP17742230 A EP 17742230A EP 3519059 A1 EP3519059 A1 EP 3519059A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
hair
hair treatment
oil
contain
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP17742230.0A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Volker Scheunemann
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
René KROHN
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP3519059A1 publication Critical patent/EP3519059A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/51Chelating agents
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

Definitions

  • the invention relates to hair treatment compositions, in particular shampoos and so-called conditioners, with a combination of active ingredients for gentle and effective care of the hair.
  • hair treatment compositions in particular shampoos and so-called conditioners
  • active ingredients for gentle and effective care of the hair.
  • care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair.
  • the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased splits following such care treatments.
  • the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse.
  • special active ingredients for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse.
  • this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.
  • multifunctional cosmetic products are known in the prior art.
  • these include the so-called “2 in 1" shampoos, which not only cleanse the hair, but also condition it.
  • These products are highly appreciated by the consumer because of their product performance, at least one process step, for example, conditioning with a classical hair conditioner; unnecessary.
  • the term "undesired change” is understood to mean the fading or bleeding and loss of color brilliance of the hue of the hair as a result of the respective dyeing.Environmental influences and / or sun effects may exacerbate these changes.There is still a need for active ingredients or active ingredient combinations for hair treatment products with good nourishing properties, which also strengthen the adhesion of dyes to the hair fibers and thus preserve the authenticity of the artificially produced hair color, and further develop hair treatment products in this regard.
  • the present application was therefore based on the object to provide good skin-friendly and nourishing hair treatment compositions which have excellent foam properties and have a good rinsability with water and also reduce or prevent the washing out of color from dyed hair.
  • the nourishing hair treatment products should have a constant conditioning performance regardless of the water quality and in particular fine hair and / or damaged hair and thereby strengthen the hair in their structure and so protect against splits and breakage and improve combability and grip. In addition, they should have a germ-reducing effect.
  • a first object of the present invention are hair treatment compositions containing by weight
  • Tetrasodium A /, A / -bis (carboxylatomethyl) -L-glutamate Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, GLDA
  • Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair conditioners, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hairstyling preparations, hair lotions, mousses, hair gels , Hair waxes or their combinations.
  • Preferred agents are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics.
  • the hair treatment compositions contain as the first essential ingredient 0.001 to 20 wt .-% complexing agent from the above group.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain only one of the three complexing agents mentioned. But it is also possible that the means according to the invention two or all three of the above.
  • Complexing agents, the manganese of all the complexing agents contained in the agents from the o.g. Group is within the range of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%.
  • Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.005 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0 , 1 to 5 wt .-% tetrasodium A /, A / -bis (carboxylatomethyl) - L-glutamate (Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, GLDA) included.
  • Hair treatment compositions which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.005 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% pentasodium Diethylenetriaminepentaacetate (DTPA) included.
  • DTPA pentasodium Diethylenetriaminepentaacetate
  • Hair treatment compositions which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.005 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% tetrasodium imino disuccinate (IDS) included.
  • IDDS tetrasodium imino disuccinate
  • DTPA pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate
  • IDMS tetrasodium imino disuccinate
  • DTPA Pentasodium Diethylenetriamine pentaacetate
  • IDS tetrasodium imino disuccinate
  • preferred hair treatment compositions contain - based on their weight -0, 1 to 5 wt .-% tetrasodium A /, A / -bis (carboxylatomethyl) -L-glutamate (Tetrasodium glutamate diacetates, GLDA) and 0, 1 to 5 wt % Pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate (DTPA) and 0.1 to 5% by weight tetrasodiumiminodisuccinate (IDS).
  • the agents according to the invention contain from 0.001 to 20% by weight of at least one proteolipid from the group (b1) cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin and (b2) steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain only one of the two mentioned proteolipids. However, it is also possible for the agents according to the invention to contain both proteolipids, the manganese content of all proteolipids (b1) and (b2) contained in the agents being within the quantitative range of 0.01 to 20% by weight.
  • Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, based on their weight in particular 0, 15 to 5 wt .-% Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
  • hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 15 to 5 wt .-% Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
  • hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 15 to 5 wt .-% Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin and 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 15 to 5 wt .-% Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin.
  • agents according to the invention may contain amino-functional silicones to further increase the conditioning effects.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain from 0.001 to 50% by weight of at least one amino-functional silicone.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
  • compositions according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)
  • R is -OH, -O-Ch or a -Ch group and m
  • n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • agents according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g, are preferred ,
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • Hair-treatment agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.15 to 5% by weight of amino-functional silicone (s).
  • the agents according to the invention contain amino-functional silicone (s) with terminal (r / n) hydroxy group (s).
  • pretreatment agents which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-V) have proven particularly effective with regard to the desired effects:
  • A represents a group -OH, -0-Si (CH 3) 3, -0-Si (CH3) 20H, -0-Si (CH 3) 20ch 3;
  • D is a group -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
  • n and c are integers between 0 and 1000,
  • Hair treatment compositions according to the invention which - based on their weight - 0.01 to 20 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 7.5 Wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one silicone of the formula (Si-V) contain:
  • A represents a group -OH, -0-Si (CH 3) 3, -0-Si (CH3) 20H, -0-Si (CH 3) 20ch 3, D is a group of -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
  • n and c are integers between 0 and 1000,
  • the individual siloxane units having the indices b, c and n are randomly distributed, i. it does not necessarily have to be block copolymers.
  • compositions according to the invention which, based on their weight, 0.001 to 20 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% Of at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone containing structural units of the formulas (Si-Via), (Si-Vlb) and (Si-Vlc)
  • R 1 is -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , or -O-CH (CH 3 ) 2 ;
  • R2 is -CH 3, -OH, or -OCH 3;
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight.
  • R 1 is -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH 3, -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , or -O-CH (CH 3 ) 2 ;
  • R2 is -CH 3 , -OH, or -OCH 3 .
  • B represents a group -OH, -0-Si (CH 3) 3, -0-Si (CH3) 20H, -0-Si (CH 3) 20ch 3;
  • D is a group -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3, -Si (CH 3 ) 20H, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
  • a, b and c independently represent integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso that a + b + c> 0
  • the units a, b, c, m and n are distributed randomly or in blocks in the molecule.
  • Structural formula (Si-VI) is intended to illustrate that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be bound directly to an end grouping B or D, respectively. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI) a> 0 or b> 0 and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-Vl) a> 0 and c> 0, i. the terminal moiety B or D is preferably attached to a dimethylsiloxy moiety. Also in formula (Si-Vl), the siloxane units a, b, c, m and n are preferably randomly distributed.
  • silicones particularly preferably used in the present invention are selected from silicones in which
  • the agents of the invention preferably contain the silicone (s) in the form of an emulsion, more preferably in the form of a microemulsion ,
  • Nonionic components which are particularly suitable here are ethoxylates of decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tridecanol, etc. Ethoxylated tridecanols have proven to be particularly suitable, which are incorporated with particular preference into the compositions according to the invention.
  • compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.00001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 3.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on their weight preferably 0.01 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-% branched, ethoxylated tridecanol (INCI name: Trideceth-5) or o iso-tridecyl-u hydroxypolyglycolether (INCI name: Trideceth -10) or mixtures thereof.
  • compositions of the invention may contain other silicone (s) which are not amino functional.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone selected from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% non-amino-functional silicone (s) included.
  • Preferred silicones are described below.
  • x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.
  • silicones are called DIMETHICONE according to the INCI nomenclature.
  • the following compounds are preferably used as the silicone of the formula Si-I: (CH 3 ) 3 Si-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3 Si-O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si-O- Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 2 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 3 -0-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (CH 3 ) 3 Si - [0- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 4 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention may contain surfactant (s).
  • surfactant s
  • anionic surfactants in particular have proven useful
  • conditioning compositions cationic surfactants are often used ingredients, amphoteric surfactants are used because of their advantageous properties with particular advantage both in shampoos and in conditioners.
  • the hair treatment compositions of the invention may contain at least one anionic surfactant.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers for the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • Preferred hair treatment compositions contain - based on their weight - 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.75 to 15 wt .-%, more preferably 1 to 12 wt .-% and in particular 2 to 10 wt .-% of anionic ( s) surfactant (s).
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 12% by weight and in particular from 2 to 10% by weight of alkyl (ether) sulfates of the general formula R- (OCH 2 -CH 2) n -OSO 3 X, in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 24 C atoms, n is the number 0 or 1 to 12, and X represents an alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium or alkanolamine ion.
  • the hair treatment compositions of the invention may contain at least one amphoteric surfactant and / or at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.3 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6% by weight and in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% amphoteric surfactant (s) included.
  • amphoteric surfactants or as zwitterionic surfactants called surfactants, which have both a negative and a positively charged functional group.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl 3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl- glycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidoproylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-C18-acylsarcosine.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions contain as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (Bet-I)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • Cocoamidopropylbetaine Representatives derived from coconut fatty acids, are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamidopropylbetaine. According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (Bet-I) which are a mixture of the following representatives:
  • hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which - based on their weight - 0.25 to 8 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 7 wt .-%, more preferably 0.75 to 6.5 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (Bet-I) included.
  • the hair-treatment compositions of the invention may be used with particular preference as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (Bet-II)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as amphoacetates, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as cocoamphoactetates.
  • surfactants of this type always also contain betaines of the formula (Bet-IIa)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M is a cation.
  • surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Amphodiacetate, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamphodiactetate.
  • hair-treatment compositions according to the invention which - based on their weight - 0.25 to 8 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 7 wt .-%, more preferably 0.75 to 6.5 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (Bet-II) included.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred in which the radical R in the formulas (Bet-I) and (Bet-II) is selected from H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 7- H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 9 - H 3 C- (CH 2 ) ii- H 3 C- (CH 2 ) i 3 -H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 15 -
  • the hair treatment agents may contain nonionic surfactant (s).
  • Hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention contain, based on their weight, 0.3 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 6% by weight and in particular 1 to 5% by weight. % nonionic surfactant (s).
  • the hair treatment agents may contain cationic surfactant (s).
  • Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines can be used according to the invention.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides.
  • the long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as.
  • cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride.
  • Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or esterquats and / or amidoamines.
  • cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or esterquats and / or amidoamines.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that - based on the weight of the composition - sis -0.05 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 8 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 7% by weight of cationic surfactant (s), preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 8% by weight .-% and in particular 0.5 to 7 wt .-% behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride.
  • cationic surfactant preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 8% by weight .-% and in particular 0.5 to 7 wt .-% behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride.
  • compositions of the invention may contain at least one cationic polymer.
  • Cationic polymers increase the care performance of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention (in particular the effectiveness of the hair breakage compositions according to the invention).
  • preferred hair treatment agents contain, based on the weight of the composition, 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.15 to 0.8 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s).
  • Cationic polysaccharide polymers increase the care performance of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention (in particular the effectiveness of the hair breakage compositions according to the invention).
  • Suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers may be selected from cationic cellulose compounds and / or from cationic guar derivatives.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain as cationic polysaccharide polymer (s) - based on the weight of the composition - 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.15 to 0.8 wt .-% of at least one polymer selected from the group of cationic cellulose polymers and / or cationic guar derivatives.
  • s cationic polysaccharide polymer
  • Cationic cellulose compounds in the sense of the invention are those which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in at least one side chain.
  • Cellulose is composed of beta-1, 4-glycosidically linked D-glucopyranose units and forms unbranched, water-insoluble chains.
  • side chain of a cellulose chemical substituents are defined which bind to the cellulose skeleton and do not belong to the native cellulose since they have been subsequently introduced, for example, by chemical synthesis.
  • Such polymers are known to those skilled in the art and commercially available from various companies. Particularly preferred are the cationic cellulose derivatives known under the INCI names Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and / or Polyquaternium-72. Very particular preference is given to polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24 and / or polyquaternium-67 and particular preference to polyquaternium-10.
  • Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain as cationic polysaccharide polymer (s) - based on the weight of the composition - 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 15 to 0.8 wt .-% of at least one polymer from the group of Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and / or Polyquaternium-72.
  • s cationic polysaccharide polymer
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain as cationic polysaccharide polymer (s) - based on the weight of the composition - 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.15 to 0.8 wt .-% Polyquaternium-10.
  • Suitable cationic guar derivatives in the context of the invention are cationic hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives, preferably cationic hydroxyethyltrimethylammonium guar and / or cationic hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar with average molecular weights between 100,000 and 2,000,000 daltons. Particularly preferred are the cationic guar polymers having a molecular weight (weight average) between 200,000 and 1,600,000 daltons known by the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
  • the cationic charge density of these guar polymers is preferably at least 0.4 meq / g, preferably at least 0.5 meq / g and especially at least 0.6 meq / g.
  • Their nitrogen content is preferably in the range of 1, 1 to 1, 8 wt .-% (based on their total weight).
  • Cationic guar derivatives which are known under the INCI designation Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, are known in the art and available, for example under the trade name Cosmedia Guar ®, N-Hance ® and / or Jaguar ® from different vendors.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain as cationic polysaccharide polymer (s) - based on the weight of the composition - 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 15 to 0.8 wt .-% guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides.
  • preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they - based on the weight of the composition - 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 1, 5 wt. % and in particular 0.15 to 0.8% by weight of cationic polymer (s), preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0, 1 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 15 to 0.8 wt .-% of at least one polymer from the group of cationic cellulose polymers and / or cationic guar derivatives.
  • alpha-substituted aldehydes can further enhance the action of the compositions of the invention.
  • significant increases in performance are observed.
  • Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that, based on the weight of the composition, they additionally contain from 0.001 to 20% by weight of at least one alpha-substituted aldehyde.
  • Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 6% by weight and in particular from 0.15 to 5% by weight of alpha-substituted aldehyde (s) of the formula (I)
  • Preferred aldehydes to be used according to the invention are described by the numbers 1 to 176 on pages 30 to 33 of the priority document.
  • Very particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 1 to 6% by weight. % and in particular 0, 15 to 5 wt .-% of at least one alpha-substituted aldehyde from the group
  • succinimidyl esters can further enhance the effect of the agents according to the invention.
  • Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on the weight of the composition, additionally from 0.001 to 10% by weight of at least one succinimidyl ester.
  • Succinimidyl esters are esters of carboxylic acids with (optionally substituted) / V-hydroxysuccinimide (NHS, IUPAC 1-hydroxy-2,5-pyrrolidinedione) and are also referred to as NHS esters.
  • Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 6% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. % and in particular 0.15 to 5% by weight of (one) succinimidyl ester (s) of the formula (III)
  • R1 represents -H or an ionic group.
  • R is an optionally substituted saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, aliphatic or aromatic hydrocarbon radical having at least 5 C atoms.
  • Suitable ionic groups R1 include both anionic groups such as phosphate, phosphonate, phosphinate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfinate, sulfenate, oxysulfonate, carboxylate groups and cationic groups such as substituted or unsubstituted ammonium groups. Zwitterionic / betainic groups such as carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine groups are also possible.
  • R 1 is -H or -OSO 3 " or -SO 3 " or -SO 2 - or -COO " or -NH 3 + or -N (CH 3 ) H 2 + or -N (CH 3 ) 2 H + or -N (CH 3 ) 3 + or -N + (CH 3 ) 2 (CH 2 ) 2-COO- or -N + (CH 3 ) 2 (CH 2 ) 3 -SO 3 -.
  • succinimidyl esters to be used according to the invention are described in the priority document on pages 36 to 38 with the numbers 1 to 72.
  • Very particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 1 to 6% by weight. % and in particular 0, 15 to 5 wt .-% of at least one Succinimidylesters from the group
  • X is H, a monovalent cation or the nth part of an n-valent cation
  • the hair treatment compositions preferably contain the active ingredients described above in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • a cosmetically acceptable carrier for the purposes of the invention, this is preferably understood as meaning an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • the cosmetic carrier preferably contains at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, particularly preferably at least 70% by weight and especially preferably at least 75% by weight of water.
  • the cosmetic carrier may contain 0.01 to 40 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 30 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 20 wt .-% of at least one alcohol.
  • Suitable alcohols are, for example, ethanol, ethyl diglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1, 2-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1, 2 Hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention it is advantageous if they have a slightly acidic pH.
  • compositions according to the invention in a pH range from 4.2 to 5.8 have a particularly good skin tolerance and mildness.
  • the hair treatment compositions of the invention preferably have a pH in the range of from 4.2 to 5.8, more preferably from 4.3 to 5.6, most preferably from 4.4 to 5.5, most preferably from 4.5 to 5.4, and more preferably from 4.7 to 5.3.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention may contain vegetable oils, vegetable butters and / or vegetable waxes. These vegetable oil components give the hair improved combability and manageability and increase hair shine.
  • Suitable vegetable oil components include natural (vegetable) oils and / or butters, which commonly contain triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides.
  • Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, marula oil, meadowfoam oil, thistle oil, Macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and / or shea butter.
  • Carnauba waxes, beeswaxes and / or candelilla waxes may be used as suitable natural or vegetable waxes.
  • Particularly preferred vegetable oil components are (sweet) almond oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and / or shea butter.
  • Apricot kernel oil, argan oil, olive oil and / or jojoba oil are particularly preferred.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably contain coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, marula oil , Meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and / or shea butter.
  • coconut oil (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain (sweet) almond oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter and / or shea butter.
  • the proportion by weight of the at least one vegetable oil, the vegetable butter and / or the vegetable wax in the total weight of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is preferably 0.02 to 2.50 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.03 to 2.00 wt .-% , Particularly preferably 0.04 to 1, 50 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 1, 00 wt .-%.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention may contain at least one further hair-conditioning active agent, which may be selected from the group of US Pat
  • Suitable protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which can be obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • protein hydrolysates of plant origin eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • cationized protein hydrolysates the protein hydrolyzate on which the animal is based, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collages or algae, or from biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives include the products known and commercially available under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Case
  • the proportion by weight of the protein hydrolyzate (s) in the total weight of the hair treatment compositions is preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 2% by weight.
  • Regardless of the source plant, animal, martim, etc. contain protein hydrolysates depending on the degree of hydrolysis of individual amino acids, oligopeptides and possibly polypeptides.
  • Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, particularly preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, even more preferred at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the composition Have amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu.
  • compositions of the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, even further preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile.
  • Still further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, still more preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, still further preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile.
  • Very particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, still more preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg.
  • Still further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, still more preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, still further preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu.
  • the abovementioned conditions relate to the total content of the agents according to the invention to peptides which originate from keratinic materials.
  • oligopeptides of keratinic origin of course, other peptides and / or protenihydrolysates can be used, for example from other native sources.
  • the additional use of wheat protein hydrolysates is preferred.
  • Suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives: • Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate into consideration.
  • Vitamin B may belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex. a.
  • Vitamin B3 > Vitamin B3. Under this designation are often the compounds nicotinic acid and
  • Nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide).
  • panthenol is preferred.
  • Useful derivatives of panthenol are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • Vitamin ⁇ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid: use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, in the meantime, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H Particular preference is given to nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol.
  • the proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), vitamin derivative (s), and / or the vitamin precursor (s) in the total weight of the hair treatment agent is preferably from 0.001 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight and in particular 0, 01 to 0.5 wt .-%.
  • Suitable plant extracts are extracts that can be made from any part of a plant. Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant. Particularly suitable are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden, lychee, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Boerhavia diffusa roots, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apim graveo
  • compositions of the invention are the extracts of green tea, stinging nettle, witch hazel, chamomile, aloe vera, ginseng, echinacea purpurea, olea europea and / or Boerhavia diffusa roots.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • the plant extracts may in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention (based on the total weight of the compositions) preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0, 1 be used to 5 wt .-%.
  • Glycerin may be added to the hair cleansing and care products separately in an amount of up to 10% by weight (based on the total weight of the composition). However, it may also be part of the aforementioned aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
  • hair treatment compositions according to the invention are also suitable for use as antidandruff preparation.
  • the total weight of anti-dandruff agents in the total weight of the hair treatment agent may preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.025 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.075 to 3 wt. -%.
  • Suitable antidandruff active ingredients may be selected from piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts.
  • auxiliaries and additives which may preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are, for example:
  • Thickening agents such as gelatin or vegetable gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such.
  • polyvinyl alcohol the Ca, Mg or Zn - soaps,
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
  • fiber-structure-improving active ingredients in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
  • Active ingredients such as bisabolol and / or allantoin
  • Ceramides are understood as meaning N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of such lipids (so-called pseudo-ceramides), propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • Additional viscosity regulators such as salts (NaCl).
  • the agents of the invention can be formulated as so-called rinse-off products, i. are rinsed out of the hair after a certain exposure time. This exposure time is preferably less than one hour, i. the consumer preferably does not leave the products until the next hair wash in the hair.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore a method for hair treatment in which an agent according to the invention is applied to dry or damp hair, left there for a period of 10 to 300 seconds and then rinsed out.
  • the agents of the invention may also be formulated as so-called leave-on products, i. are not rinsed out of the hair, but left there until the next hair wash.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore a method for hair treatment, in which an agent according to the invention is applied to dry or damp hair and left there until the next hair wash.
  • the agents according to the invention lead to a significantly increased strengthening of the inner and outer hair structure.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore the use of agents according to the invention for strengthening the hair structure, in particular the inner hair structure.
  • Structural strengthening in the sense of the invention is to be understood as meaning a reduction in the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to the most diverse influences.
  • the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role.
  • Restructured fibers are characterized for example by an improved gloss, improved grip and easier combing.
  • they have an optimized Firmness and elasticity.
  • Successful structural reinforcement or restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber.
  • compositions of the invention also lead to a significantly increased stability of artificial dyeings against the washing out of paint.
  • chemically dyed hairs can be washed significantly more frequently with the compositions according to the invention, without the undesired bleeding or color fading occurring.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore the use of agents according to the invention for reducing the washout of color from chemically colored hair.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des produits de soin capillaire contenant, par rapport à leur poids, de 0,001 à 20 % en poids d'agents complexants, choisis dans le groupe constitué par le N,N-bis(carboxylatométhyl)-L-glutamate de tétrasodium (diacétate de glutamate tétrasodique, GLDA), le diéthylènetriaminepentaacétate de pentasodium (DTPA) et l'iminodisuccinate de tétrasodium (IDS), et de 0,001 à 20 % en poids d'au moins un protéolipide, choisi dans le groupe constitué par (b1) la kératine hydrolysée d'hydroxypropyle de cocodimonium et (b2) la kératine hydrolysée d'hydroxypropyle de stéardimonium, ces produits permettant de renforcer de manière accrue la structure interne des fibres kératiniques, d'améliorer les effets de soin et de réduire ou d'empêcher la perte de couleur des cheveux colorés.
EP17742230.0A 2016-09-30 2017-07-19 Produits de soin capillaire à effet de conditionnement amélioré assurant une protection contre la perte de couleur Withdrawn EP3519059A1 (fr)

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DE102016218989.1A DE102016218989A1 (de) 2016-09-30 2016-09-30 verbessert konditionierende Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Auswaschschutz
PCT/EP2017/068239 WO2018059774A1 (fr) 2016-09-30 2017-07-19 Produits de soin capillaire à effet de conditionnement amélioré assurant une protection contre la perte de couleur

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