EP3449756B1 - Pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie avec bracelet amovible - Google Patents

Pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie avec bracelet amovible Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3449756B1
EP3449756B1 EP17188055.2A EP17188055A EP3449756B1 EP 3449756 B1 EP3449756 B1 EP 3449756B1 EP 17188055 A EP17188055 A EP 17188055A EP 3449756 B1 EP3449756 B1 EP 3449756B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
piece
bar
jewellery
timepiece
bracelet
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP17188055.2A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3449756A1 (fr
Inventor
Cédric Nicolas
Nicolas François
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Original Assignee
Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Swatch Group Research and Development SA filed Critical Swatch Group Research and Development SA
Priority to EP17188055.2A priority Critical patent/EP3449756B1/fr
Priority to US16/103,063 priority patent/US10691073B2/en
Priority to JP2018154521A priority patent/JP6703570B2/ja
Priority to CN201810982121.9A priority patent/CN109419108A/zh
Publication of EP3449756A1 publication Critical patent/EP3449756A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3449756B1 publication Critical patent/EP3449756B1/fr
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C11/00Watch chains; Ornamental chains
    • GPHYSICS
    • G04HOROLOGY
    • G04BMECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B37/00Cases
    • G04B37/14Suspending devices, supports or stands for time-pieces insofar as they form part of the case
    • G04B37/1486Arrangements for fixing to a bracelet
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/14Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps characterised by the way of fastening to a wrist-watch or the like
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/14Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps characterised by the way of fastening to a wrist-watch or the like
    • A44C5/145Hooks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/18Fasteners for straps, chains or the like
    • A44C5/20Fasteners for straps, chains or the like for open straps, chains or the like
    • A44C5/2019Hooks
    • A44C5/2023Sliding hooks
    • A44C5/2028Sliding hooks with spring closure means
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/18Fasteners for straps, chains or the like
    • A44C5/20Fasteners for straps, chains or the like for open straps, chains or the like
    • A44C5/2057Fasteners locked by sliding or rotating of the male element of the fastener; Turn-button fasteners
    • A44C5/2061Fasteners locked by sliding or rotating of the male element of the fastener; Turn-button fasteners combined with spring means

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a timepiece or jewelry comprising at least one bar, and comprising a removable bracelet comprising at least one strand arranged to be assembled with a watch or jewelry bar, the bar being inscribed in a geometric envelope of given profile and given dimensions, the bracelet comprising, at the end of said at least one strand, a chamber of profile and dimensions complementary to this given profile and to these given dimensions and arranged for housing a bar, said chamber comprising a lateral opening on a first side of said strand for the introduction or extraction of said strip, said strand comprising a latch movable in a longitudinal direction of said strand against an elastic return means and further comprising a pusher for controlling said latch, said pusher being movable in a transverse direction substantially perpendicular to said longitudi direction nale and according to the thickness of said strand, and comprising a first arranged to cooperate with a second profile that comprises said pawl for the transformation of a transverse movement of said pusher into a longitudinal movement of said pawl, and said
  • the invention relates to the field of watchmaking or jewelry.
  • the watch or jewelry bracelet is an important accessory, which must ensure both a comfortable wearing for the user, and the security of maintaining the watch or the jewelry, in all circumstances and in particular in professional or sports use, at during which the object can be subjected to strong accelerations.
  • the bracelet plays an important role in the aesthetics of the watch or jewelry, gives it its own physiognomy, and makes it possible to highlight the style of the user or of the clothes he is wearing, which explains the interest of removable bracelets, designed for personalization of the object, and which are supposed to be exchanged by the user himself.
  • the invention proposes to define a bracelet provided with a fastening system fulfilling all these requirements, designed for the most common case of a watch or jewel comprising a hanging bar, and so as to avoid disassembly of this bar, if however this is possible, since, especially on jewelry this bar is generally removable from the body of the jewel.
  • the invention relates to a timepiece or jewelry comprising at least one bar, and comprising a bracelet, according to claim 1.
  • the invention relates to a timepiece or a piece of jewelry, in particular a watch 1000 or a jewel 2000, comprising a hanging bar 101, 102, and comprising a bracelet 100, provided with a fixing system to be integrated into a such a watch 1000 or such a jewel 2000, and designed so that this bar can remain in place on the watch 1000 or the jewel 2000 during the exchange of its bracelet.
  • This removable watch or jewelry bracelet 100 includes at least one strand 1 arranged to be assembled with a watch or jewel bar.
  • This bar 101, 102 is inscribed in a geometric envelope of given profile and given dimensions.
  • the bracelet 100 includes, at the end of a strand 1, a chamber 2 of profile and dimensions complementary to this given profile and to these given dimensions, and which is arranged for housing and enclosing a bar 101 , 102.
  • the strap 100 can be a versatile strap, suitable for being mounted on many commercial watch boxes which have bars relatively standard, at least in terms of their diameters, but also be a bracelet specific to a watch or jewel case with bars of special profile, so as to prevent the fitting of any bracelets likely to distort or trivialize the object .
  • a bracelet 100 comprising an insert 40 at the end of the strand, which has the advantage of being able to be produced in series and of reducing storage costs.
  • a bracelet for example made of ceramic or metallic material, or the like, may comprise a strand the end of which is directly equipped in the manner described below in this particular application and preferred in the case of the bracelet with insert.
  • the chamber 2 in particular but not limited to produced in the structure of the insert 40, has a lateral opening 3 on a first side of the strand 1, for the introduction or the extraction of the bar.
  • This strand 1 comprises a latch 4 movable in a longitudinal direction DL of the strand 1, against an elastic return means 5, and further comprises a pusher 6 for controlling the latch 4.
  • the pusher 6 is movable in a transverse direction DT substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal direction DL and according to the thickness of the strand 1, and has a first profile 7 arranged to cooperate with a second profile 8 that includes the latch 4, for the transformation d 'A transverse movement of the pusher 6 in a longitudinal movement of the latch 4, in particular along a flat surface sloping both with respect to the transverse direction DT and the longitudinal direction DL.
  • the bracelet 100 includes a closure means 9, which is arranged on the first side, for retaining the pusher 6 within the thickness of the strand 1 or of its insert 40.
  • the closure means 9 comprises a molded lip 10 of flexible material, such as elastomer, rubber, silicone, or the like, which is arranged to permanently enclose the pusher 6 in the thickness of the strand 1 or its insert 40.
  • the molded lip 10 is designed to permanently enclose the elastic return means 5 in the thickness of the strand 1 or of its insert 40, as visible on the figures 18, 19, 20, 22 .
  • the molded lip 10 is designed to permanently enclose the latch 4 in the thickness of the strand 1 or of its insert 40, as visible on the figures 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 .
  • the molded lip 10 is in one piece with the strand 1, it can in particular secure the strand and the insert 40 which it comprises.
  • An alternative to overmolding is the use of the flexibility of the material constituting the strand, for example a leather, a textile, an elastomer, rubber, silicone, or the like, the strand being produced so as to constitute a pocket in which the insert is locked away.
  • the user can manipulate the pusher 6 through the skin of the strand, by a pressure in the transverse direction DT.
  • the pusher 6, embedded in the thickness of the strand is without contact with the outside, and cannot be handled unexpectedly.
  • the pusher 6 comprises stop means 69 arranged to cooperate in abutment support with the shutter means 9, as visible on the figures 6, 7 , 13 and 14 .
  • the pusher thus remains locked in its housing whatever its position.
  • the chamber 2 is separated from the opening 3 by at least one notch 30 in relief formed in a flexible wall of the chamber 2 or carried by a flexible lip 24 delimiting one side of the chamber 2.
  • the closure system may also include a keying device to ensure that the bar is properly inserted and locked in its chamber, and that the system can close properly, for example in the form of a curved metal blade which is flexible to the bottom of the chamber 2, and which is deformed when the bar comes into abutment, then emitting a click of the correct position of the bar in its room.
  • This blade projects through the opening 3 as long as the bar is not at the bottom of the housing, and, when the bar is at the bottom of the housing, it deforms the blade which retracts into the chamber 2 and is no longer projecting through the opening 3.
  • This blade can be made of shape memory material, or of amorphous metal.
  • the latch 4 forms a drawer which is movable, only in the longitudinal direction DL, in a yoke of an insert 40 which comprises the bracelet 100.
  • this yoke of the insert 40 comprises, extending in the transverse direction DT, transverse guide means 46 arranged to guide the travel of complementary guide means 66 that comprises the pusher 6, as visible on the figures 3 , 6 , 7 , 13, and 14 .
  • the elastic return means 5 in particular constituted by a spring, a coil spring in the case of the figures, is enclosed between a wall 41 of the yoke of the insert 40 and a bearing face 42 of the latch 4 .
  • the chamber 2 is formed in the thickness of the yoke of the insert 40.
  • the yoke of the insert 40 comprises at least one flexible lip 24 arranged to cooperate bearing on the bar after its insertion.
  • the manufacture of the insert 40 can be carried out by molding, for example by molding of metal powder.
  • the elastic return means 5 can be in one piece with the body of the insert, for example in the form of a zig-zag spring.
  • Naturally additional safety devices can also be added, such as a quarter-turn locking by a flooded latch (of the aeronautical closure type "Riveklé” or similar) before allowing access to the pusher, this latch may include the manufacturer's logo and require a particular angular orientation for its opening.
  • a flooded latch of the aeronautical closure type "Riveklé” or similar
  • this latch may include the manufacturer's logo and require a particular angular orientation for its opening.
  • the part 1000 comprises a first strip 101 inscribed in a first geometric envelope, and a first strand 11, a first chamber 21 of which is dimensioned to receive the first strip 101, and this part 1000; 2000 comprises a second bar 102 inscribed in a second geometric envelope different from the first geometric envelope, and a second strand 12, a second chamber 22 of which is dimensioned to receive the second bar 102 but not the first bar 101, the first chamber 21 being unable to receive the second bar 102, as illustrated in a particular example on the Figures 15 and 16 .
  • the invention relates more particularly to a watch 1000 comprising such a bracelet 100, arranged to receive at the first horns a first bar 101, and at the second horns a second bar 102, so as to distinguish a first upper strand 11 arranged for be attached to the level of the first horns, and a second lower strand 12 arranged to be attached to the level of the second horns.
  • the invention relates more particularly to a jewel 2000 comprising such a bracelet 100, and which can naturally include all of the arrangements described above, and is in particular arranged to receive at the level of the first horns a first bar 101, and at the level of the second horns a second strip 102, so as to distinguish a first upper strand 11 arranged to be attached at the level of the first horns, and a second lower strand 12 arranged to be attached at the level of the second horns.

Landscapes

  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
EP17188055.2A 2017-08-28 2017-08-28 Pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie avec bracelet amovible Active EP3449756B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP17188055.2A EP3449756B1 (fr) 2017-08-28 2017-08-28 Pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie avec bracelet amovible
US16/103,063 US10691073B2 (en) 2017-08-28 2018-08-14 Removable bracelet for horology or jewellry
JP2018154521A JP6703570B2 (ja) 2017-08-28 2018-08-21 計時器または宝飾品のための取り外し可能なブレスレット
CN201810982121.9A CN109419108A (zh) 2017-08-28 2018-08-27 用于钟表或珠宝首饰的可移除的链

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP17188055.2A EP3449756B1 (fr) 2017-08-28 2017-08-28 Pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie avec bracelet amovible

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3449756A1 EP3449756A1 (fr) 2019-03-06
EP3449756B1 true EP3449756B1 (fr) 2020-05-13

Family

ID=59713910

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP17188055.2A Active EP3449756B1 (fr) 2017-08-28 2017-08-28 Pièce d'horlogerie ou de bijouterie avec bracelet amovible

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US10691073B2 (ja)
EP (1) EP3449756B1 (ja)
JP (1) JP6703570B2 (ja)
CN (1) CN109419108A (ja)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3838054A1 (fr) * 2019-12-19 2021-06-23 Richemont International S.A. Dispositif d'attache de bracelet

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3754437A1 (fr) * 2019-06-17 2020-12-23 Dexel S.A. Dispositif de liaison mécanique entre un bracelet et une pièce mécanique
WO2021008302A1 (en) * 2019-07-15 2021-01-21 Guangdong Oppo Mobile Telecommunications Corp., Ltd. Mounting and locking mechanism, casing, and wearable device
CH718283B1 (fr) * 2021-01-26 2023-12-15 Richemont Int Sa Dispositif d'attache d'un bracelet de montre.
WO2023287085A1 (ko) * 2021-07-15 2023-01-19 삼성전자 주식회사 스트랩 및 상기 스트랩을 포함하는 웨어러블 전자 장치

Family Cites Families (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1508612A (en) * 1924-03-04 1924-09-16 A & Z Chain Co Bracelet hook
US1630498A (en) * 1926-02-20 1927-05-31 Harvey Clap & Co Bracelet chain for wrist watches or the like
US1653058A (en) * 1926-08-16 1927-12-20 J F Sturdy S Sons Co Bracelet hook
US1675324A (en) * 1926-12-10 1928-07-03 Automatic Gold Chain Company Bracelet hook
US1692809A (en) * 1927-02-18 1928-11-27 S O Bigney & Company Bracelet chain
US1662628A (en) * 1927-08-23 1928-03-13 Automatic Gold Chain Company Bracelet end hook
US2876521A (en) * 1956-04-25 1959-03-10 Legman Nathan Watch band and clasp
US3036353A (en) * 1961-01-11 1962-05-29 Kestenman Bros Mfg Co Clasp for articles of jewelry and the like
US3644967A (en) * 1968-12-04 1972-02-29 Irvin Industries Inc Safety belt buckle
CH704810B1 (fr) * 2011-03-31 2015-08-14 Louis Vuitton Malletier Sa Brin de bracelet flexible.
US9498029B2 (en) * 2015-03-13 2016-11-22 Google Inc. Clasp mechanisms for wristwatch bands

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
None *

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3838054A1 (fr) * 2019-12-19 2021-06-23 Richemont International S.A. Dispositif d'attache de bracelet

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US20190064744A1 (en) 2019-02-28
JP2019037771A (ja) 2019-03-14
US10691073B2 (en) 2020-06-23
CN109419108A (zh) 2019-03-05
EP3449756A1 (fr) 2019-03-06
JP6703570B2 (ja) 2020-06-03

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