EP3325699B1

EP3325699B1 - Method and device for the production of a slub yarn, and yarn produced

Info

Publication number: EP3325699B1
Application number: EP16739458.4A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Davide Maccabruni; Antonio RIPAMONTI; Roberto BADI
Original assignee: SSM Giudici SRL
Current assignee: SSM Giudici SRL
Priority date: 2015-07-20
Filing date: 2016-07-14
Publication date: 2019-05-22
Anticipated expiration: 2036-07-14
Also published as: JP2018521236A; TW201712174A; CN107849749B; ITUB20152307A1; TWI699467B; JP6915888B2; CN107849749A; EP3325699A1; WO2017012996A1

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the field of yarn production. More in particular, embodiments described herein relate to improvements to the methods and devices for the production of slub yarns.

BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION

In the textile industry, new yarns are continuously developed in order to achieve particular technical and aesthetical effects. In the textile technology, it is well known to produce so-called "slub" fancy yarns, that is yarns in which accumulation areas, i.e. irregularities in the thickness thereof, are provided by means of a suitable slubbing device or unit. Slubbing devices are disclosed, for instance, in EP0299131 , US6820405 , US4368612 .
Usually, a previously texturized slub yarn is coupled with an elastomer yarn to obtain a composite fancy yarn.
There is still a need for developing slub fancy yarns of better quality and suitable to impart innovative features to the knitted or woven fabrics produced with these yarns.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a method for the production of a fancy yarn. In embodiments described herein, the method comprises the step of feeding and processing a first yarn by means of a drafting and false-twist texturing process. The method furthermore comprises the step of feeding and processing a second yarn by means of a drafting and false-twist texturing process. The drafted and textured first yarn is then fed to a first slubbing unit in order to form accumulation or slub areas on the first yarn. Similarly, the drafted and textured second yarn is fed to a second slubbing unit so as to form accumulation or slub areas on the second yarn. Then, the first yarn, the second yarn and a core yarn are joined together so as to form the fancy yarn. In advantageous embodiments, the joining of the three components (first slub yarn, second slub yarn and core yarn) is performed in a single joining device. The joining device may be, or may comprise, an air interlacing jet.
According to a further aspect, the invention relates to a device for the production of a slub yarn, comprising in combination a first drafting and false-twist texturing unit to process a first yarn by means of drafting and false-twist texturing, and a second drafting and false-twist texturing unit to process a second yarn by means of drafting and false-twist texturing. The device comprises, downstream of the drafting and false-twist texturing units, a first slubbing unit for the drafted and textured first yarn, and a second slubbing unit for the drafted and textured second yarn. A joining device for joining the first yarn and the second yarn is provided downstream of the first slubbing unit and of the second slubbing unit, a core yarn being also fed to this device.
According to a further aspect, the invention relates to a fancy yarn comprising in combination a core yarn, a first drafted textured slub yarn, and a second drafted textured slub yarn joined together.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The invention and the many advantages resulting therefrom will be better understood from the description below of some embodiments, set forth with reference to the accompanying drawings, where:

Fig. 1 shows a functional diagram of an embodiment of the method described herein;
Fig. 2A shows a section of a machine comprising a plurality of devices according to an embodiment;
Fig. 2B is an enlargement of a portion of Fig. 2A;
Fig. 3 is a schematic of an embodiment of a slubbing unit;
Figs. 4A-4D show an operative sequence of the slubbing unit of Fig. 3;
Fig. 5 is a schematic of a different embodiment of a slubbing unit;
Fig. 6 shows a picture of a slub yarn produced according to a prior art method; and
Fig. 7 shows a picture of a slub yarn produced according to the method described herein.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS

The detailed description below of exemplary embodiments is made with reference to the attached drawings. The same reference numbers in different drawings identify the equal or similar elements. Furthermore, the drawings are not necessarily to scale. Moreover, the detailed description below does not limit the invention. The protective scope of the present invention is defined by the attached claims.
In the description, the reference to "an embodiment" or "the embodiment" or "some embodiments" means that a particular feature, structure or element described with reference to an embodiment is comprised in at least one embodiment of the described object. The sentences "in an embodiment" or "in the embodiment" or "in some embodiments" in the description do not therefore necessarily refer to the same embodiment or embodiments. The particular features, structures or elements can be furthermore combined in any adequate way in one or more embodiments.
Fig. 1 shows a functional diagram of some embodiments of the method described in the invention. For the production of a composite fancy yarn FF, two initial yarns F1 and F2 are used. The yarns F1 and F2 may be supplied in reels B1 and B2 that are gradually unwound to feed the yarns F1 and F2 to the processing unit of the device, indicated as a whole with number 1 in the diagram of Fig. 1.
In some embodiments, each yarn F1 and F2 is subjected to a preliminary drafting and false-twist texturing in a section 3 of the machine. A first drafting and false-twist texturing unit, indicated with 2A, is provided for the first yarn F1 in the section 3. A second drafting and false-twist texturing unit, indicated with 2B, is also provided for the yarn F2 in the section 3.
In some embodiments, in order to perform drafting and false-twist texturing, the first yarn F1 is fed through a first feeding unit 5, an oven or heater 7, a cooling area 9, a false-twist unit 11, and lastly through a second feeding unit 13.
Similarly, the second yarn F2 may be fed through a respective first feeding unit 15, a second oven or heater 17, a second cooling area 19, a second false-twist unit 21, and is lastly introduced into a respective second feeding unit 23.
In the diagram of Fig. 1, the two ovens 7 and 17 are integrated in a single heating unit, indicated as a whole with number 8.
In a known manner, the yarn F1 may be drafted between the feeding unit 5 and the feeding unit 13. Each feeding unit 5 and 13 may comprise a pair of rollers adjacent to, and pressed against, each other, so as to define a nip for the passage of the yarn F1. At least one of the rollers of each feeding unit 5, 13 may be motorized, while the other one may be idle. The peripheral rotation speed of the rollers of the feeding units 5 and 13 is so selected as to impart the yarn F1 the desired drafting degree in the drafting and false-twist texturing section 3. For instance, the feeding unit 13 may be actuated at a peripheral speed of the rollers that is greater than the speed of the feeding unit 5 by a percentage comprised between 1.1 and 2.0.
Similarly, the yarn F2 may be drafted in the drafting and false-twist texturing section 3, between the feeding unit 15 and the feeding unit 23. The feeding units 15 and 23 may be configured in a way similar to the units 5 and 13. In some embodiments, the motorized rollers of the feeding units 5 and 15 may be installed on a common shaft, controlled by a single motor. In other embodiments, the feeding units 5 and 15 may be associated to different motors, in order to impart the yarns F1 and F2 different drafting degrees. Similarly, the feeding units 13 and 23 may have motorized rollers installed on a same shaft and controlled by a single motor, or rollers actuated by different motors so as to adjust the drafting degree of the two yarns F1 and F2 independently of each other.
Downstream of the drafting and false-twist texturing section 3, the device 1 has a first slubbing unit 25 arranged along the path of the first yarn F1, and a second slubbing unit 27 arranged along the path of the second yarn F2.
The two slubbing units 25 and 27 may be designed in a known manner, for example as described in the patent documents mentioned in the introductory part of this description. A further embodiment of a slubbing unit 25 or 27 will be described below with reference to figure 3.
In an suitable position, for example in the area of the slubbing units 25, 27 or downstream thereof, an unwinding station 29 may be provided for unwinding a reel BE of an elastomer yarn FE, destined to form the core yarn of the composite fancy yarn FF. The elastomer yarn FE may be made, for example, of Lycra® or any other suitable material.
The feeding paths of the yarns F1 and F2 and of the elastomer yarn FE merge in a joining device for joining the yarns F1, F2 and the elastomer yarn FE. In some embodiments, the joining device 31 comprises, or is constituted by, an air interlacing jet 31. In the air interlacing jet 31 the yarns F1, F2 and the elastomer yarn FE are joined together by means of pressurized air jets, in order to obtain, at the exit of the air interlacing jet 31, the composite fancy yarn FF, that is wound in a reel BF in a collection and winding station, schematically indicated with 33, to which the fancy yarn FF is fed by means of a feeding unit 35 that may comprise, similarly to the units 5, 13, 15, 23, a pair of rollers adjacent to, and pressed against, each other, at least one of which may be motorized and the other one may be idle. The peripheral speed of the rollers of the feeding unit 35 may be suitably controlled in order to further draft, or to relax, the fancy yarn FE before it is collected on the reel BF. In some embodiments, the feeding unit 35 may be replaced by a heated roller called godet roller. In this way, the unit has not only the function of feeding but also the function of thermosetting the fancy yarn FE. In some embodiments, an oil supplying unit 37 may be arranged along the path of the fancy yarn FE towards the collection reel BF.
The composite fancy yarn FE therefore comprises a core yarn constituted by the elastomer yarn FE, to which two slub yarns F1 and F2 are joined by means of the air interlacing jet 31.
The fancy yarns F1 and F2 are advantageously and preferably multi-filament yarns, with a number of filaments comprised, for instance, between 10 and 288.
In some embodiments, the yarns F1 and F2 have a yarn count comprised between 15 and 550 Dtex.
The two yarns F1 and F2 may be equal to each other as regards yarn count and composition, or differ from each other in yarn count and/or composition.
In some embodiments, the yarns F1 and F2 may be, independently of each other, POYs (pre-oriented or partially oriented yarns) or FDYs (fully drawn yarns). The two yarns F1 and F2 may be made, independently of each other, of polyamide (nylon), polypropylene, polyester, polyethylenterephthalat or any other material, typically a polymer material, useful for the production of yarns destined to the textile industry, for clothing, furniture, automotive or any other textile applications.
Figs. 2A and 2B show an embodiment of a device according to the diagram of Fig. 1. The same numbers indicate equal or corresponding parts to those described with reference to figure 1. More in particular, Figs. 2A and 2B illustrate a section according to a vertical plane, orthogonal to the longitudinal extension of a multiple machine comprising a plurality of devices 1 aligned to one another orthogonally to the plane of the figure.
The paths of the yarns F1 and f2 are partially overlapped in the image of Figs. 2A, 2B, in particular as regards the drafting and false-twist texturing section 3. In Figs. 2A, 2B the ovens 7, 17 joined in the heating unit 8, the cooling areas 9 and 19 and the false- twist units 11 and 21 are shown overlapped to one another. Downstream of these latter, the two paths of the yarns F1 and F2 are visible separately, with the feeding units 13, 23, the slubbing units 25 and 27, the single interlacing jet 31, common for the yarns F1, F2 and for the elastomer yarn FE, and the single feeding unit 35. Below this latter, two collection units 33 are indicated, put one over the other and corresponding to two adjacent devices 1 arranged according to the alignment of the machine, orthogonal to the plane of the figure.
As mentioned above, the two slubbing units 25 and 27 may be designed in a known manner, for example as described in the patent documents mentioned in the introduction. Fig. 3 illustrates a slubbing unit according to a further embodiment. In this embodiment, the slubbing unit 25, 27 comprises, for each device 1, i.e. for each position of the multi-position machine of Fig. 2, a pair of guide members 41, 43 for the passage of the respective yarn F1 or F2. The two guide members 41 and 43 are preferably fixed with respect to the structure of the device 1. Between them a thread guide 45 is arranged, movable with reciprocating motion according to double arrow f45. To this end, the thread guide 45 may be connected to a toothed belt 47 that may be driven into reciprocating motion by means of a motor 49.
The thread guide 45 moves along a path, rectilinear in the illustrated example, from an initial position, shown in Fig. 3, to a final position, where a slide 51 is arranged stationary with respect to the bearing structure, The thread guide 45, in the position illustrated in Fig. 3, engages the yarn F1 or F2, guided along the guide members 41 and 43, and moves it in its translation movement towards the position of the slide 51. By interacting with this latter, the yarn is unloaded from the thread guide 45 and returns into rectilinear arrangement between the two guide members 41 and 43. The thread guide 45 moves back to the initial position of Fig. 3, where it picks up the yarn again and deviates the path thereof, as described above, up to the slide 51.
This operation is schematically shown in the sequence of Figs. 4A-4D.
The periodical elongation of the yarn path between the guide members 41 and 43 and the subsequent release of the yarn causes the formation of yarn accumulations, thus generating the slub effect.
Fig. 5 illustrates a different embodiment of a slubbing unit 25, 27. In this embodiment, the slubbing unit 25, 27 comprises, for each device 1, i.e. for each position of the multi-position machine of Fig. 2, a pair of guide members 41, 43 for the passage of the respective yarn F1 or F2. The two guide members 41 and 43 are preferably stationary with respect to the structure of the device 1. Between them a thread guide 45 is arranged, which is movable with reciprocating motion according to the double arrow f45. To this end, the thread guide 45 may be connected to a toothed belt that can be driven into reciprocating motion by means of an electric motor, similarly to what has been described with reference to Fig. 3. The thread guide 45 is symmetrical with respect to a vertical plane and co-acts with two slides 51A, 51B, arranged at the ends of the stroke followed by the thread guide 45.
In this case, the operation of the slubbing unit is substantially the same as for the slubbing unit of Fig. 3. However, in this case, the thread guide 45 performs a greater stroke in the two directions according to the arrow f45, in order to co-act with the two opposite slides 51A and 51B, alternatively.
By using a double slubbing unit, as illustrated just by way of example in Fig. 5, the texturized yarn passing through the slubbing unit is more tensioned and therefore more rigid, and this can lead to better final results.
Two identical or different slubbing units 25, 27 can be used in the device 1. For example, a slubbing unit may be made as shown in Fig. 3, and the other slubbing unit may be made as shown in Fig. 5.
Moreover, the slubbing units 25, 27 may be controlled in a same manner or in different manners with respect to each other. In particular, the two slubbing units may be operated at the same rate or at different rates of the motion of the thread guide 45 or of any other movable slubbing element. By adjusting the position of the slides 51, 51A, 51B with respect to the position of the guide members 41, 43, it is also possible to vary the strokes of the thread guide 45 and, therefore, the quantity of accumulated yarn.
It is therefore possible to adjust, independently for the two yarns F1 and F2, the rate at which the accumulations are distributed on the yarn (depending on the operative rate of the slubbing unit), the quantity of each accumulation (depending on the stroke of the thread guide 45) or both these parameters.
By varying the operation parameters of the two slubbing units 25, 27, it is possible to have a wide range of different fancy yarns FF.
Similar adjustments may be made also on different slubbing units, designed for example as described in the prior art documents cited above.
A different final result on the fancy yarn may be also obtained by changing the yarns F1 and F2. The yarns may be equal to each other or can be different from one another, for example as far as yarn count, number of filaments and/or material is concerned. The yarns F1 and F2 may also differ in physical features imparted during the drafting and false-twist texturing process. For example, the two yarns F1 and F2 may be subjected to a different drafting percentage and/or to different texturizing temperatures and/or to different twist.
By using different yarns, having different behavior during dyeing, it is possible to obtain particular color effects.
In general, a wide range of slub effects on the final fancy yarn, and therefore a high production flexibility can thus be obtained with the device and the method described herein.
The joining, in a same interlacing jet, of an elastomer yarn FE and two yarns F1 and F2, textured and slub in separate slubbing units 25, 27, surprisingly allows to obtain particular effects on the final fancy yarn FF. Fig. 6 shows a picture of a slub yarn obtained according to a prior art method, with a single texturized and slub yarn, joined to an elastomer yarn. The fancy yarn thus obtained has a discontinuity in yarn accumulations, which are spaced from one another by areas without accumulation. The result is a limited yarn volume and poor quality.
Fig. 7 shows a picture of a fancy yarn FF obtained with the method described above. By joining two textured and slub yarns in the same interlacing jet, a fancy yarn is obtained having a greater volume and better quality, with the possibility of varying the distribution of the yarn accumulations by varying, for instance, the operative rate of the two slubbing units 25, 27.
The two yarns F1, F2, processed separately in the slubbing units 25, 27, interact with each other in the interlacing jet, thus creating a synergic slub effect on the finished yarn FF.

Claims

A method for the production of a fancy yarn (FF), comprising the steps of:
feeding and processing a first yarn (F1) by means of a drafting and false-twist texturing process;

feeding and processing a second yarn (F2) by means of a drafting and false-twist texturing process;

feeding the drafted and texturized first yarn (F1) to a first slubbing unit (25) and forming accumulation areas or slub areas on the first yarn (F1);

feeding the drafted and texturized second yarn (F2) to a second slubbing unit (27) and forming accumulation areas or slub areas on the second yarn (F2);

joining the first yarn (F1), the second yarn (F2) and a core yarn (FE) together.
Method according to claim 1, wherein the core yarn (FE) is an elastomer yarn.
Method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the first yarn (F1), the second yarn (F2) and the core yarn (FE) are joined together in an air interlacing jet (31).
Method according to one or more of the previous claims, wherein the first yarn (F1) is a multifilament yarn.
Method according to one or more of the previous claims, wherein the second yarn (F2) is a multifilament yarn.
Method according to one or more of the previous claims, wherein the first yarn (F1) and the second yarn (F2) have a count comprised between 15 and 550 Dtex.
Method according to one or more of the previous claims, wherein the first yarn (F1) and the second yarn (F2) are equal to each other.
Method according to one or more of claims 1 to 6, wherein the first yarn (F1) and the second yarn (F2) differ from each other, for instance in one or more of the following features: yarn material, yarn count, number of filaments of the yarn, yarn drafting degree, yarn texturizing degree, twist of the yarn.
Method according to one or more of the previous claims, wherein the first yarn (F1) and the second yarn (F2) are processed by means of respectively different slubbing processes, to generate different slubs, preferably different in frequency and/or accumulation degree.
A device (1) for the production of a fancy yarn (FF), comprising in combination:
a first drafting and false-twist texturing unit (2A);

a second drafting and false-twist texturing unit (2B);

a first slubbing unit (25);

a second slubbing unit (27);

a path for a first yarn (F1) through the first drafting and false-twist texturing unit (2A) and through the first slubbing unit (25);

a path for a second yarn (F2) through the second drafting and false-twist texturing unit (2B) and through the second slubbing unit (27);

a path for feeding a core yarn (FE);

a joining device (31) for joining the first yarn (F1), the second yarn (F2) and the core yarn (FE) together, arranged downstream of the first slubbing unit (25) and of the second slubbing unit (27).
Device according to claim 11, wherein the joining device (31) comprises an air interlacing jet.
Device according to claim 11 or 12, wherein at least one of said first slubbing unit (25) and second slubbing unit (27), and preferably both said slubbing units, have at least one operational parameter that can be adjusted, preferably independently for the two slubbing units; wherein in particular said at least one slubbing parameter can be chosen among: slubbing frequency; yarn slub amount.
A fancy yarn (FF) comprising in combination a core yarn (FE), a drafted, texturized and slubbed first yarn, and a drafted, texturized and slubbed second yarn (F2) joined together.
Fancy yarn according to claim 15, wherein the core yarn (FE) is an elastomer yarn.
Fancy yarn according to claim 15 or 16, wherein the drafted, texturized and slubbed first yarn (F1) is a multifilament yarn.
Fancy yarn according to one or more of claims 15 to 17, wherein the drafted, texturized and slubbed second yarn (F2) is a multifilament yarn.
Fancy yarn according to one or more of claims 15 to 18, wherein the first yarn (F1) and the second yarn (F2) are different from each other in one or more of the following parameters: yarn material; yarn count; number of filaments; texturizing degree; drafting degree; twist degree; yarn slub frequency; yarn slub amount.