EP3233212A1

EP3233212A1 - Oil-based exfoliating cleansing product

Info

Publication number: EP3233212A1
Application number: EP15763505.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Horst Argembeaux; Anke Hoff
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2014-10-29
Filing date: 2015-08-25
Publication date: 2017-10-25
Anticipated expiration: 2035-08-25
Also published as: WO2016066299A1; EP3233212B1; DE102014222014A1; US20170246103A1; US11147760B2

Abstract

The invention relates to an oil-based cleansing product which contains abrasive particles as exfoliating substances. In one particular embodiment, salt and sugar crystals are used as exfoliating substances.

Description

Peeling cleansing product based on oil

The present invention describes oil-based cleaning products, the abrasive particles, in a particular embodiment salt and / or sugar crystals, as peelers

Substances contained.

The oils of the present invention are lipids that can be either fats that are solid or semi-solid at 20 ° C or oils that are liquid. Native oils and fats are chemically im

Substantially high number of triacylglycerols of even higher number of fatty acids

Carbon atoms. Petrochemical oils or fats are usually longer-chained, more or less branched or cross-linked, saturated or unsaturated or partially saturated hydrocarbons and derivatives thereof.

In a broader sense, the term lipid is understood as meaning a particular group of biomolecules, which is structurally not at all homogeneous, and which completely or at least

is largely insoluble in water.

Lipids for the purposes of the present invention may be any oils and / or fats of the form described. Mixtures of liquid and solid lipids which are liquid at room temperature are preferred.

Cleaning products containing an increased oil or lipid content have been on the market for some time. The oil in the cleansing product should be applied to the skin and protect the skin, normalize the skin condition and contribute to the regeneration of affected, sensitive or even aging skin.

To explain the protective function of lipids, the following idea was developed: the surfactants, in particular anionic surfactants, can adsorb on the upper skin layer and exert their effect there. On the one hand, they remove dirt particles or a dirt film from the skin. However, not only is the dirt removed, but skin-derived lipids and natural moisturizing factors (NMF, Natural Moisturizing Factors) are also replaced. Since the Olkomponenten in the cleaning products a film on the Skin, it is conceivable that the effect of the surfactants on the skin's own lipids and the natural moisturizing factors is limited.

In addition, the lipid film causes the skin does not dry out so much and contributes to the regeneration of the skin's own lipid film on the Rückfettung.

Affected skin, sensitive skin or aging skin is often characterized by the fact that it is dry. In the application of conventional cleaning products that contain no oil or very little of it, the dissolution of the skin's own lipids and natural moisturizing factors causes further impairment of the skin. The skin dries even further. It can lead to a feeling of tightness of the skin, redness and itching. Especially for users with such skin conditions cleaning preparations based on oil in a position to remedy.

Cleaning preparations based on oil have long been disclosed in the prior art.

The document DE 29 43 202 describes compositions with cleansing and skin-care effect based on mixtures of surfactants and oils, which are preferably used as so-called Pflegeschaumbäder, although the use of these agents is mentioned as a shower preparation. The preparations described have a content of 20 to 80 wt .-% of an aqueous surfactant solution, which in turn consists of 85 to 95 wt .-% surfactant and 5 to 15 wt .-% water, and an oil content of 80 to 20 wt. %. The detergent component of these preparations consists of mono- or dialkylamine, mono or dialkanolamine or alkylalkanolamine salts of fatty alcohol sulfuric acid esters.

The document EP 120 224 describes active substance-containing oil bath preparations with a content of 38.75% by weight of soybean oil, 2.00% by weight of castor oil, 37.00% by weight of vaseline oil. As emulsifier Polyethylenglycolmono- or diesters are disclosed, in concentrations of about 10 to 12 wt .-%. The active substance used is pelargonic acid.

Document DD 236014 discloses oily cosmetic products which must be clear. These funds find u.a. Use as bath oils and cream baths. In addition to 20 to 80% oil, an aqueous anionic surfactant solution or water, these preparations contain a combination of certain hydrophobic and hydrophilic emulsifiers or

nonionic surfactants. In the document DE 44 24 210 are cosmetic or dermatological

Shower preparations having a surfactant content of at most 55 wt .-% and an oil content of more than 45 wt .-%, wherein the preparations are substantially free of water. Due to the high oil content, these preparations have a regenerating effect on the general skin condition. At the same time you have a good foam development and a high cleaning power.

The document EP 0867176 describes shower preparations which have a high, but in

Compared to the prior art have significantly lower, oil content. However, it is still a high refatting achieved with better foam performance and compatibility.

The document WO 03/051319 also discloses oily cleaning products, but in this case cleaning products based on oily microemulsions. A process for the preparation of these oily microemulsions is described. At a constant total amount of surfactant, the primary surfactant / cosurfactant ratio can be varied.

In WO 2005/065629 it is disclosed that oil-containing, anhydrous

Surfactant preparations can be designed such that they counteract an enzyme damage of the enzymes of the upper skin layers.

The document WO 2012/104025 also describes lipid-containing bath preparations which are mixed with probiotic active ingredients.

For more thorough skin freshening and cleansing, there are cleansers that have a peeling effect. The peeling effect can be achieved by the use of abrasive particles. The abrasive particles are usually natural or synthetic, water-insoluble solids, in the form of particles having an average diameter of 100 to 400 μηη and a round or non-circular shape.

As part of a peeling treatment, the abrasive effect of particles used can irritate the skin. In exceptional cases, especially dry and / or sensitive skin and / or aging skin may cause irritation.

In the past, there has been no lack of attempts to counteract this irritation, z. As by nourishing additives that soothe the skin and / or through the use of Exfoliating particles, which dissolve during use and thus show a decreasing peeling effect.

Water-soluble particles, such. Example, from crystal-forming sugars or salts, can be integrated in surfactant-containing solutions saturated with these sugars or salts aqueous. Such solutions are difficult to stabilize; the particles tend to settle. In addition, such formulations lack refatting components that can soothe the skin and cause regeneration.

The term sugar can be understood as meaning mono- and oligosaccharides (dimers to decamers of monosaccharides) which taste sweet, are water-soluble and usually crystalline compounds. This is offset by the polysaccharides, which are poorly or not at all soluble in water, have no uniform molecular weight and are virtually tasteless.

Such cleaning preparations are described, for example, in the documents

DE 102013224336 and DE 102013224368 described. These preparations are

Aqueous preparations containing no or only small amounts of lipids.

Abrasive particles can also be incorporated directly into lipid-containing preparations. A largely pasty consistency counteracts the sinking of these particles. Such formulations, however, even when incorporating amphiphilic components, lack the foam desired by the consumer.

There was therefore a need to provide oil-containing, largely water-free cleaning preparations which achieve a more thorough cleaning.

Furthermore, the abrasive particles containing the oily, largely anhydrous

Cleaning preparations are added, be largely stable distributed in the preparation and remain.

When using the preparations according to the invention should one, with conventional

Cleaning products comparable cleaning effect can be achieved. this will

for example, indicated by adequate foaming. In order to achieve a particularly irritating peeling effect, it is very advantageous if the exfoliating particles dissolve for the most part during use and thus reduces the peeling effect during the course of the application.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that cleaning preparations based on an oil / polyol mixture containing abrasive particles and one or more oil-soluble surfactants are capable of solving the above objects.

It is advantageous if the oil phase contains a hardened vegetable oil or a mixture of different hardened vegetable oils and / or fats for structuring in order to improve the stability of the preparation.

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the cleaning preparation also contains polymeric structurants, in particular anionic polymers in order to effect structuring.

Cleaning preparations with abrasive action

containing <5.0% by weight, preferably <1.5% by weight, particularly preferably <0.2% by weight, containing water

a. lipids

b. polyols

c. oil-soluble surfactants

d. abrasive particles and

e. polymeric structurants,

are suitable to solve the above tasks.

Preference is given to cleaning preparations which have a certain weight ratio of certain components. It is preferred if the weight ratio of lipids to polyols is 4: 1 to 1: 4. It is further preferred that the ratio of the sum of the proportions by weight of lipids and polyols to the proportions by weight of surfactants is from 2: 1 to 1: 2 and preferably from 1: 5: 1 to 1: 1, 5.

The cleaning preparations contain <5.0 wt .-%, preferably <1, 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably <0.2 wt .-% water. The water content can be determined by Karl Fischer titration. The determination of water according to Karl Fischer is suitable for the

Determine water content in organic solvents, essential oils, ointments and other organic substances. The basis of the method is the fact that iodine and sulfur dioxide react only in the presence of water to iodide and sulfate. Of the End point of the titration is indicated by the appearance of a yellow-brown color; At this point all the water is consumed and iodine no longer reacts to the colorless iodide. Today, this provision is carried out with prepared, commercially available solutions.

The cleaning formulations contain surfactants that are oil-soluble. It has proven favorable if the preparations comprise a main surfactant which is preferably at least one nonionic surfactant, in particular an amide of a C 10 -C fatty acid, particularly preferably a monoisopropyl amide. Main surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are those surfactants which, taking into account all surfactants in the preparation according to the invention, are present in the predominant amount.

In addition to the main surfactant, there may be other surfactants known as cosurfactants. It is preferred if at least one cosurfactant is another amide of a C 10 -C 16 fatty acid. This amide of a C10-C-m fatty acid is different from the amide used as a major surfactant of a C10-C16 fatty acid. It is particularly preferred if the cosurfactant is a diethanolamide.

It has also proved favorable if the cosurfactants comprise further structurally different nonionic surfactants. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants surfactants selected from the group of alkoxylated fatty alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 16, preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms and a degree of alkoxylation of 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 6 selected. The degree of alkoxylation describes the number of alkoxy groups in the molecule. Preferred alkoxy groups are propylene oxide and ethylene oxide. Particularly preferred is ethylene oxide. An ethylene oxide radical may be abbreviated to EO. The degree of ethoxylation is understood to be the number of EO radicals present.

It is particularly preferred if the cosurfactants include amides of a C 10 -C fatty acid and alkoxylated fatty alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 16, preferably 10 to 14 C atoms and a degree of alkoxylation of 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 6.

It is also possible that the cosurfactants include other nonionic surfactants.

The content of oil-soluble surfactants is 10 to 60 wt .-%, preferably 20 to 50 wt .-%, particularly preferably 25 to 40 wt .-%, based on the total weight of

Preparation. The lipids according to the invention consist of a mixture of lipids which are liquid and solid at room temperature. The liquid at room temperature lipids may be synthetic and / or natural, mineral and / or vegetable oils. It is preferred if the liquid lipids are vegetable oils, particularly preferably castor and / or soybean oil and / or oil from sunflower seeds.

The solid at room temperature lipids may be hydrogenated vegetable oils and / or fats. As examples here are hydrogenated vegetable oil, z. B. Dermofeel Viscolid of Dr. Ing. Straetmans and Hydrogenated Vegetable Fat, e.g. B. VGB 22 of the company ADM called.

The content of lipids in the preparations according to the invention is 5.5 to

12.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The inventively preferred polyol is glycerol. With the aid of the polyols, in particular glycerol, the total weight of the preparations according to the invention is brought to 100% by weight. It is preferred if the content of polyols is in a concentration range of 5 to 40 wt .-%, preferably 10 to 27 wt .-%.

The cleaning preparations according to the invention contain polymeric structurants, which are preferably incorporated into the mixed phase of surfactant (s) and polyol (s). The structurants preferred according to the invention are anionic polymers. These anionic polymers are in the course of the preparation of the inventive

Cleaning preparations neutralized with a base. To neutralize the anionic polymer, an amine is preferably used, particularly preferably

Amino methyl propanol.

The anionic polymer is preferably a crosslinked acrylic acid copolymer. It is further preferred if, in addition to the monomer acrylic acid, a vinyl monomer is used for the synthesis of the acrylic acid copolymer as a further monomer, in particular preferably a vinylpyrrolidone monomer.

The content of structure in the inventive preparations is 0.5 to 3.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.8 to 2.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of

Preparation. The cleaning preparations according to the invention contain soluble and / or insoluble particles as solid abrasive particles.

For the purposes of the present invention, solid abrasive particles which are soluble are particles which are present in the cleaning preparation in the solid state, in particular in crystal form. When using the cleaning preparation, for example when showering, the cleaning preparation comes into contact with a larger amount of water, so that the cleaning preparation is diluted. As a rule, this leads to the solid particles, in particular crystals, gradually dissolving.

The solid abrasive particles which are soluble are preferably generated from sugars and / or suitable and skin compatible salts. Particularly preferred is the use of sucrose and / or sodium chloride to form the soluble particles.

The solid abrasive particles which can be used according to the invention and which are insoluble have a synthetic and / or natural origin. Insoluble particles of natural origin can be of mineral as well as vegetable origin.

The cleaning preparations according to the invention may contain solid abrasive particles which are soluble or solid abrasive particles which are insoluble, as well as mixtures of soluble and insoluble particles.

Likewise subject of the present invention is the use of

Cleaning preparations with abrasive action

with a water content <5.0%, preferably <1.5%, more preferably <0.2%, containing a. lipids

b. polyols

c. oil-soluble surfactants

d. abrasive particles and

e. polymeric structurants

for deeper cleaning of dry and / or sensitive skin and / or

Age skin.

The following surfactants can be used advantageously in the preparations according to the invention: The amides of the fatty alcohol sulfates or of the fatty alcohol ether sulfates to be used according to the invention have the following structure:

In this case, b can assume values of 0 to 10, advantageously 1 to 5. R ² is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

Preferred fatty alcohol ether sulfate is MIPA laureth sulfate.

Advantageously, the fatty alcohol ethoxylates to be used according to the invention have the following structure:

R ³ - (O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -) _c -OH

In this case, c can assume values of 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 6. R ³ is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferred fatty alcohol ethoxylate is laureth-4.

Advantageously, the fatty acid mono- or diethanolamides which are advantageously used according to the invention have the following structures:

R ⁴ or R ⁵ are selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups and / or alkenyl groups having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular having 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

Preferred fatty acid diethanolamide is coconut fatty acid diethanolamide (Cocamide DEA). Natural coconut fatty acid contains as essential constituents lauric acid at 44-51% by weight, myristic acid at 13-18% by weight, palmitic acid at 8-10% by weight, caprylic acid at 6-9% by weight, capric acid at 6-10% by weight. 10% by weight, oleic acid to 5-8% by weight, stearic acid to 1-3% by weight, linoleic acid to 0-2% by weight and caproic acid to 0-1% by weight.

Very particular preference is given to mixtures of MIPA laureth sulfate, laureth-4 and

Coconut fatty acid diethanolamide. Such mixtures are available, for example, under the name ZETESOL® 100 from Zschimmer & Schwarz Chemical Factories, Lahnstein / Rhein, or TEXAPON® WW 99 from Henkel KGaA, Dusseldorf.

The Öte invention are preferably selected from the group of triglycerides of the following structure: wherein R ⁶ , R ⁷ and R ^{8 are} independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched, alkylcarboxyl or alkenylcarboxyl groups having 12 to 24 carbon atoms. It may be advantageous if one or more aliphatic hydrogen atoms of the alkylcarboxyl or alkenylcarboxyl groups are substituted by hydroxyl groups.

For the selection of lipids which are liquid at room temperature, it is particularly advantageous if R ⁶ , R ⁷ and / or R ^{8 have} 16 to 20 carbon atoms and are selected from the group of monosubstituted to triunsaturated carboxylic acid radicals.

When R ⁶ , R ⁷ and / or R ⁸ carry hydroxyl groups, the preferred alkenyl carboxyl radical is the ricinoleic acid radical.

It is particularly advantageous to select the inventive liquid at room temperature lipids from the group of soybean oil, castor oil and sunflower seed oil.

For the selection of lipids solid at room temperature, it is advantageous if these have a melting point or melting range in a window of 50 to 70 ° C, an iodine value between 0 and 5 and a free fatty acid content of 0 to 0.8 wt .-%. to have.

Polyols in the context of the present invention are polyhydric alcohols. These are low molecular weight compounds which carry at least two hydroxyl groups.

According to the invention, the compounds are preferably propylene glycol and glycerol,

particular preference is given to glycerol.

Solid abrasive particles in the sense of the present invention are soluble and / or insoluble particles which cause an exfoliating action.

In the case of the soluble particles, the peeling effect is caused by the undissolved portion of sugars or salts which may be in crystalline form. This is achieved by such a high sugar and / or salt concentration that not all sugar and / or Salt molecules in the preparation of the invention can solve, but in solid or crystalline form. These peeling substances of this type come into contact with water during use during the shower or washing process, for example during showering or washing off of the foam and the cleaning preparation at the end of the cleaning process. As a result, a dissolution of the sugar and / or salt crystals is guaranteed, resulting in a decreasing peeling effect. At the same time, however, this results in no or virtually no residues of the peeling substances in

Sink or treatment devices remain behind. Virtually no residue means that in very few cases extremely small traces of the

Cleaning preparation after washing on washbasins or

Application facilities are visible, but are easily removable by rinsing or wiping.

The sugars used according to the invention can be, for example, mono-, di- or

Be oligosaccharides. Mono- or disaccharides may be, for example, sucrose, glucose or fructose, with sucrose being particularly preferred.

The salts in the preparations according to the invention should be suitable for the skin and in the environment of the cleansing preparations to form solid structures, preferably crystals. These may be, for example, alkali metal salts, such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium sulfate and / or potassium sulfate, with sodium chloride being particularly preferred. The salts in the preparations according to the invention may also be alkaline earth salts, for example magnesium chloride and / or magnesium sulfate.

The insoluble peeling agents may be selected, for example, advantageously from the group polyethylene, alumina, sand, plastic particles, crushed or crushed cores of walnut shells, apricot, peach and / or almond kernels.

The polymeric structurants which can be used according to the invention are anionic polymers. Anionic polymers may be polymers that include, for example, acrylic acid as a monomer. For example, polyacrylates such as acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those selected from the group of so-called carbomers, can be used according to the invention.

Particularly preferred according to the invention, in the synthesis of the anionic polymers, it is additionally possible to use vinyl monomers, in particular preferably vinylpyrrolidone. Particular preference according to the invention is given to compounds having the INCI name Acrylic Acid / VP Crosspolymer.

In order to demonstrate the effectiveness of the preparations according to the invention, a selected preparation, OELPEEL: 70, was used in an in-use screening. The

Preparation OELPEEL: 70 was distributed to 100 subjects who had to use the product at least four times within 12 days. A questionnaire was handed out asking for different product services. Of 100 questionnaires, 83 were returned and could be evaluated. The subjects were all female, on average 37.08 years old. All subjects were users of

Duschpeeling products. The questions could be answered on a scale of 1 (disagree) to 7 (agree). The answers were evaluated in terms of the determination of the respective mean value, the absolute and relative frequency. In addition, so-called topboxes and lowboxes were identified, i. grouped the answers in terms of best and second best, and weakest and second weakest statements.

The cleaning performance of the preparation OELPEEL: 70 was assessed during the application, 36.4% of the subjects agreed with the highest possible value of 7 (see Figure 1). The cleaning performance of OELPEEL: 70 is generally rated as extremely good.

Likewise, the mildness was assessed during the application, 28.7% of the subjects rated the mildness with the highest possible value of 7, 32.2% with a value of 6, the second highest value. The preparation OELPEEL: 70 has an excellent mildness, see Figure 2.

After drying, the test subjects should give an assessment for the gentle removal of skin flakes, the skin feeling and the drying out of the skin, see Figures 3 to 6). 47.2% of the subjects rated the removal of the skin cells with the highest value of 7. It follows that the peeling effect was evaluated by the sugar crystals as very good.

That skin feel is excellent in terms of smoothness and delicacy is also judged to be high (Figure 5). 34, 1% of the test persons agreed with the highest value that the product does not dry out the skin (FIG. 6).

After 12 days of application, the subjects were to the care, to a

Feeling of tension on the skin and moisturizing the skin are interrogated, see FIGS. 7 to 9. All three aspects were rated as above average by the test persons.

The product used in the IN-USE screening, OELPEEL: 70, has the following

Composition:

Examples:

All information in the present application is in wt .-%, unless other units are expressly stated.

The data in the examples below indicate the raw material contents. These correspond to the active contents, unless the respective percentage active content is stated in the trade name.

Claims

claims

1. Cleaning preparations with abrasive action

with a water content of <5.0%, preferably <1, 5%, particularly preferably <0.2%, containing

a) lipids

b) polyols

c) oil-soluble surfactants

d) abrasive particles and

e) polymeric structurants.

2. Cleaning preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the

Weight ratio of lipids to polyols 4: 1 to 1: 4.

3. Cleaning preparations according to claim 1 and / or 2, characterized in that the ratio of the sum of the proportions by weight of lipids and polyols to the proportions by weight of surfactants 2: 1 to 1: 2 and preferably 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1, 5 is.

4. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the oil-soluble surfactants are nonionic surfactants.

5. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the preparations contain at least one nonionic main surfactant, preferably an amide of a C10 - C6 fatty acid, more preferably a monoisopropylamide.

6. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the preparations contain at least one cosurfactant.

7. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the cosurfactant is an amide of a C10 - C16 fatty acid, preferably a diethanolamide.

8. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the cosurfactant is an amide of a C 10 -C 15 fatty acid which is different from the main surfactant.

9. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the cosurfactant from the group of alkoxylated fatty alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 16, preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms and a

Alkoxylierungsgrad 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 6 is selected.

10. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 5 and according to claim 9, characterized in that the cosurfactant is selected from the group of ethoxylated fatty alcohols.

1. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the cosurfactant amides of C10 - C6 fatty acids and alkoxylated fatty alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 16, preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms and a degree of alkoxylation of 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 6.

12. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of the preceding claims,

characterized in that the polyols are propylene glycol and / or glycerol.

13. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of the preceding claims,

characterized in that the polymeric structurants are anionic polymers.

14. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of the preceding claims,

characterized in that the polymeric structurants are crosslinked acrylic acid copolymers, especially acrylic acid copolymers containing vinyl monomers, especially acrylic acid copolymers containing vinylpyrrolidone monomers.

15. Cleaning preparations according to at least one of the preceding claims,

characterized in that solid abrasive particles are contained, wherein the solid abrasive particles are soluble or insoluble particles.

16. Cleaning preparations according to claim 15, characterized in that the

soluble particles of sugars or salts.

17. Cleaning preparations according to claim 16, characterized in that the

soluble particles consist of sucrose.

18. Cleaning preparations according to claim 16, characterized in that the

soluble particles consist of sodium chloride.

19. Cleaning preparations according to claim 15, characterized in that the insoluble particles of synthetic or natural origin or mixtures of particles of synthetic or natural origin.

20. Use of cleaning preparations according to claim 1 for deeper cleaning in dry and / or sensitive skin and / or aging skin.