EP1268723B1 - Pearly luster concentrates - Google Patents

Abstract

Aqueous pearly luster concentrate comprises: (A) an anionic surfactant component comprising an anionic gemini surfactant(s) and a poorly foaming anionic detergent component(s) and/or a electrolyte stable anionic surfactant(s); (B) a nonionic surfactant(s); (C) a pearl luster component(s); and optionally (D) an active agent(s); and/or (E) a stabilizer(s).

Description

The invention relates to aqueous, flowable pearlescent concentrates comprising one or more pearlescing components, gemini surfactants and at least one further surfactant.

Cosmetic hair and body cleansers, dishwashing detergents and liquid detergents and cleaners contain substances which give the formulations mentioned a pearlescent appearance in order to improve the visual appearance of wetted surfaces and thus to increase the commercial value. To achieve such an effect, a wide variety of substances can be used, for example finely powdered natural substances such as mica, fish-silver, inorganic materials such as bismuth oxychloride and titanium dioxide pigments, metal salts of higher fatty acids, fatty acid monoesters or diesters, fatty acid alkanolamides or long-chain fatty alcohols.

1. 1. aus einer perlglanzgebenden organischen Komponente, wie z.B. Fettsäureglykolester oder Fettsäureglycerinester der Stearinsäure
2. 2. aus Dispergiermitteln, wie z.B. anionischen Tensiden (z.B. Laurylethersulfat oder Fettsäureamidopropylbetaine)
3. 3. aus Kristallisationshilfsmitteln, die nach dem Stand der Technik den Zweck haben, die perlglanzgebenden Komponenten in der gewünschten Form kristallisieren zu lassen

Usually, commercially available end-use surfactant formulations are prepared using flowable pearlescent concentrates, which mostly contain organic pearlescing substances. Such pearlescent concentrates have the advantage that they can be introduced cold into the surfactant formulation, ie the pearlescence no longer has to be prepared by heating the entire preparation to 60 to 80 ° C. (RL Crombie, SH Nicholson, Comun. Journal Com. Esp. Deterg. 28 (1998) 87-94). These pearlescent concentrates may be composed of the prior art as follows:

1. 1. from a pearlescing organic component, such as fatty acid glycol esters or fatty acid glycerol esters of stearic acid
2. 2. from dispersants, such as anionic surfactants (eg, lauryl ether sulfate or fatty acid amidopropylbetaines)
3. 3. from crystallization aids, which have the purpose in the prior art to crystallize the pearlescing components in the desired form

Regardless of which components of the pearlescent effect is produced, according to the previous view, the only effect and task of pearlescent concentrate in the effect of giving the end product a pearl or silk gloss, and this with a very easy to handle, so low viscosity, very stable and not adversely affecting the properties of the final product Pearly luster. In particular, the pearlescent concentrate must not contain skin or mucous membrane irritating components.

For additionally required properties which are required in many foaming cleansing preparations in the field of personal care, for example reduction of the irritation potential of the anionic main surfactant used, foam improvement with regard to foamability, content of wash liquor, creaminess and refatting, further active components must be used. The use of active ingredients, e.g. Vitamins, enzymes and proteins, which are often easy to reduce, oxidize or hydrolyze, are not possible here without special pre-treatment.

A clear simplification of the formulations would result if many or all of the functions mentioned were fulfilled by one of the components of the surfactant composition which was in any case used. In addition, a hitherto unknown technical flexibility would be apparent if active substances could simply be incorporated into one of the stated preparations.

• anionischen Geminitensiden enthaltenden Tensidzusammensetzungen zusammen mit einer anionischen Detergenskomponente mit schlecht schäumender Charakteristik und/oder
  elektrolytstabilen anionischen Tensiden,
• in Kombination mit zumindest einem nichtionischen Tensid und
• einem Perlglanzgeber,

das Perlglanzkonzentrat zu einem multifunktionellen Baustein wird.Surprisingly, it has been found that when using

• anionic gemini surfactants containing surfactant compositions together with an anionic detergent component with poor foaming characteristics and / or
  electrolyte-stable anionic surfactants,
• in combination with at least one nonionic surfactant and
• a pearlescer,

the pearlescent concentrate becomes a multifunctional building block.

The present invention relates to surfactant compositions and the use of aqueous, flowable pearlescent concentrates according to claims 1 and 6.

Preferred embodiments of the invention are subject of the dependent claims.

• (A1.1) zu 10 bis 80 Gew.%, bevorzugt 20 bis 60 Gew.-% oder sogar 30 bis 50 Gew.%, jeweils bezogen auf die Summe der Komponenten (A1.1) und (A1.2), ein oder mehrere anionische Geminitenside und
• (A1.2) zum verbleibenden Rest, d.h. zu 90 bis 20 Gew.%, bzw. zu 80 bis 40 Gew.% oder zu 70 bis 50 Gew.%, jeweils bezogen auf die Summe der Komponente (A1.1) und (A1.2) ein oder mehrere anionische Detergenskomponenten mit schlecht schäumender Charakteristik.

The anionic gemini surfactants (A1.1) are preferably used together with the anionic detergent component having a poorly foaming characteristic (A1.2) in the following ratio in the anionic surfactant component:

• (A1.1) to 10 to 80 wt.%, Preferably 20 to 60 wt .-% or even 30 to 50 wt.%, Each based on the sum of the components (A1.1) and (A1.2), a or more anionic gemini surfactants and
• (A1.2) to the remainder, ie to 90 to 20 wt.%, Or to 80 to 40 wt.% Or to 70 to 50 wt.%, In each case based on the sum of component (A1.1) and ( A1.2) one or more anionic detergent components having poorly foaming characteristics.

The pearlescent concentrate is used in concentrations of particularly preferably 1.0 to 5% by weight in the end product.

Surprisingly, the pearlescing component in the application formulation not only performs the function of imparting a pearl or silk luster of high optical density and brilliance to the end product, but also reduces the irritation potential of other anionic surfactants, leads to better foaming characteristics, the foam contains much surfactant solution and is very high creamy. In addition, the pearlescent concentrate according to the invention leads to a good moisturizing effect of the application formulation and can be used as a vehicle for inclusion and thus protection of active components against oxidation, reduction or hydrolysis and for their controlled release (eg odorous substances only when used as intended).

Consequently, formulations for cosmetic hair and body cleansing, dishwashing detergents and liquid detergents and cleaners can be greatly simplified by using the multifunctional pearlescence according to the invention, since the pearlescent now additionally functions other, in this case superfluous additives or then only to a lesser extent necessary additives takes over, such as Refatting components, Schaurnverbesserer and Irritationsminderer. Cocoamidopropyl betaine and isethionates may be mentioned here.

In addition, it is no longer necessary to adapt the entire formulation for the incorporation of an active substance, as is customary with structured liquid detergents, because the active substance can be safely encapsulated in the pearlescence and released only when it is used as intended.

If the combination of gemini surfactant (e) and poorly foaming component (according to German Patent Application 199 43 681.9) is dispensed with and an (instead of) an electrolyte-stable anionic surfactant is used instead, such a pearlescent concentrate still has the property of encapsulating the active substances. however, the use of the combination gemini surfactant / poor foaming detergent component is preferred because it results in better incorporation of the active and higher stability of the composition.

Furthermore, the inventors have been determined, without wishing to be bound by theory, that unlike described in the literature (RL Crombie, SH Nicholson, Comun. Journal Com. Esp. Deterg., 28 (1998) 87-94), in the pearlescent effect compositions of the invention, the pearlescent components are not present in the form of small, oriented in the surfactant bilayers, crystals.

The pearlescent concentrate according to the invention forms elongated multilamellar liquid-crystalline layers. The elongated multilamellar liquid-crystalline layers are composed of several surfactant bilayers. When stretched according to the invention, these stretched multilamellar layers also remain in the application formulation or at water concentrations typically found in formulations (1 to 90% by weight).

The elongated multilamellar liquid crystalline layers which form in compositions of the invention differ markedly from the concentric membrane vesicles described for encapsulating drugs (see, for example, WO 99/27907). The arrangement of the elongated multilamellar liquid crystalline layers does not correspond to that of vesicles, but rather that of a system of emulsifier and co-emulsifier forming a gel network (J. Britto, Euro Cosmetics, 9 (1998) 27-32).

The shape of the elongated multilamellar liquid-crystalline layers is shown in FIG. This is the pearlescent concentrate given in the examples as formulation (A). Here, the pearlescent concentrate was snap-frozen with liquid nitrogen, broken, the fracture surface was covered with conductive material and examined with the Scanning Electron Microscope (ESEM). On display are the elongated multilamellar structures, which can be used for the inclusion of active substances. These differ markedly from the spherical, onion-like structures of conventional compositions, such as e.g. in WO 99/27907 are described.

Particularly suitable for the encapsulation of active ingredients in the pearlescent system are active ingredients which themselves have an at least slightly amphoteric character, i. contain both hydrophobic and polar groups, which are incorporated as part of the bilayers. These active ingredients do not affect the efficiency of the pearlescing agent. Oil-soluble active substances can be taken up by the elongated multilamellar liquid-crystalline layers and thus remain in front of them, e.g. Oxidation, reduction or hydrolysis protected. Water soluble actives can be placed in the hydrous layers between the elongated multilamellar liquid crystalline layers. The protective effect of the pearlescent concentrate can be determined simply by the concentration of the intact active substance over a certain period of time.

In the context of the present invention, gemini surfactants are surface-active compounds which consist of at least two, preferably two, surfactant units, ie of hydrophilic head group and hydrophobic group, which are identified by at least one, preferably spacer, spacer Near the head group are linked together. The gemini or gemini silk are also called dimer surfactants and bear their name because of their special design. Depending on the nature of the head group, there are anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric gemini surfactants. Different to However, conventional surfactants, which are likewise classified into these groups, gemini surfactants can also carry combinations of head groups of different character. These are usually combinations of nonionic and ionic groups. Preferably, the gemini surfactant has at least one anionic group.

The gemini surfactants preferably used in the surfactant compositions according to the invention include those which contain nitrogen atoms at the point of attachment between spacer, hydrophilic and hydrophobic group. These include preferably gemini surfactants with spacers containing amines or amides, but also spacers deriving from dicarboxylic acids, hydrophilic double head groups derived from betaine structures which optionally have side groups prepared by alkoxylation (in particular ethoxylation), the sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, carboxylic acid or alcohol groups ( including polyhydric alcohols), and hydrophobic double chains of 5 to 25 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched and may carry up to 2 non-contiguous double bonds.

The following general structural variants of the gemini surfactants as represented by the formulas are particularly suitable for the surfactant compositions of the invention. The preferred structural variants are explained in greater detail by the definition of the substituents / spacers, wherein each individual definition of a substituent / spacer can also characterize the gemini surfactant taken by itself. The disclosure of the writings mentioned under AI to D.IV is hereby explicitly made the content of this application with regard to the definition of the gemini surfactants.

Variant A: structures based on amide- or amine-containing spacers A.I gemini surfactants of the general formula (A.I) analogous to WO 96/14926

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander folgende Bedeutung haben:

R¹, R³

C₅- bis C₂₅-Alkyl, verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt, gegebenenfalls bis zu 2-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt;

R²

C₁- bis C₁₂-Alkylen;

X,Y

(C₂H₄O-)_x(C₃H₆O-)_y-FR; x+y ≥ 1, x: 0-15, y: 0-10 und

FR

-SO₃M, -CH₂-CO₂M, -P(O)(OM)₂, H, -C₃H₆SO₃M; oder
-CH₂(CHOH)₄CH₂OH, soweit x+y=0; wobei M = ein Gegenion wie Alkali, (Alkyl)Ammonium, Alkanolammonium, H oder ½ Erdalkali ist.

where the substituents independently of one another have the following meanings:

R ¹ , R ³

C ₅ to C ₂₅ alkyl, branched or unbranched, saturated, optionally up to 2-fold non-adjacent unsaturated;

R ²

C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkylene;

X, Y

(C ₂ H ₄ O-) _x (C ₃ H ₆ O-) _y -FR; x + y ≥ 1, x: 0-15, y: 0-10 and

FR

-SO ₃ M, -CH ₂ -CO ₂ M, -P (O) (OM) ₂ , H, -C ₃ H ₆ SO ₃ M; or
-CH ₂ (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH, as far as x + y = 0; where M = a counterion such as alkali, (alkyl) ammonium, alkanolammonium, H or ½ alkaline earth.

A.II gemini surfactants with dicarboxylic acid-containing spacers of the general formula (A.II) analogous to WO 96/25388

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander die für die allgemeine Formel (A.I) angegebene Bedeutung haben.

where the substituents independently of one another have the meaning given for the general formula (AI).

A.III Amphoteric gemini surfactants of the general formula (A.III) analogous to WO 97/31890

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander die für die allgemeine Formel (A.I) angegebene Bedeutung haben. Geminitenside der allgemeinen Formel (A.III) sind amphotere Verbindungen, so daß sie bei entsprechend saurem Umgebungsmedium auch kationisch werden können.

where the substituents independently of one another have the meaning given for the general formula (AI). Gemini surfactants of the general formula (A.III) are amphoteric compounds, so that they can also become cationic in a correspondingly acidic surrounding medium.

Variant B: structures based on amide- or amine-containing spacers B.I gemini surfactants of the general formula (B.I) analogous to DE 19622612 or JP-A 10-175934

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander folgende Bedeutung haben:

R¹, R³

C₅- bis C₂₅- Alkyl, verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt, gegebenenfalls bis zu 2-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt;

R²

C₁- bis C₁₂-Alkylen;

A

CHR⁴, CH₂, C₂H₄, C₃H₆, C₄H₈;

R⁴

Rest einer Aminocarbonsäure und

M

ein Gegenion wie Alkali, (Alkyl)Ammonium, Alkanolammonium, H oder ½ Erdalkali.

where the substituents independently of one another have the following meanings:

R ¹ , R ³

C ₅ to C ₂₅ alkyl, branched or unbranched, saturated, optionally up to 2-fold non-adjacent unsaturated;

R ²

C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkylene;

A

CHR ⁴ , CH ₂ , C ₂ H ₄ , C ₃ H ₆ , C ₄ H ₈ ;

R ⁴

Residue of an aminocarboxylic acid and

M

a counterion such as alkali, (alkyl) ammonium, alkanolammonium, H or ½ alkaline earth.

B.II gemini surfactants of the general formula (B.II) analogous to EP 0 708 079

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander die für die allgemeine Formel (B.I) angegebene Bedeutung haben und

R⁵, R⁶

C6- bis C36-Alkyl, verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt, gegebenenfalls bis zu 2-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt;

X

Alkylen- oder Alkenylengruppe mit 1 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, die mit einer Hydroxylgruppe oder einer Sulfonsäuregruppe oder einer Carboxygruppe substituiert sein kann;

Y¹

eine Sulfonat- oder Sulfatgruppe oder eine Carboxylgrupppe und

Y²

eine Hydroxylgruppe, ein Schwefelsäurerest oder -O-(CO)X-COOH bedeuten.

wherein the substituents independently of one another have the meaning given for the general formula (BI) and

R ^5, R ⁶

C 6 to C 36 alkyl, branched or unbranched, saturated, optionally up to 2-fold non-adjacent unsaturated;

X

Alkylene or alkenylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group or a sulfonic acid group or a carboxy group;

Y ¹

a sulfonate or sulfate group or a carboxyl group and

Y ²

a hydroxyl group, a sulfuric acid residue or -O- (CO) X-COOH.

B.III Gemini surfactants of the general formula (B.III) analogous to JP-A-8-311003

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander die für die allgemeine Formel (B.I) angegebene Bedeutung haben und FG -COOM oder -SO₃M bedeutet.

wherein the substituents independently of one another have the meaning given for the general formula (BI) and FG -COOM or -SO ₃ M means.

B.IV Gemini surfactants of the general formula (B.IV) analogous to JP-A 11-60437

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander, die bei den allgemeinen Formeln (B.I) und (B.II) angegebene Bedeutung haben und

AO

Alkylenoxideinheiten, d.h. Ethylenglykol-, Propylenglykol und Butylenglykolethereinheiten, allein oder statistisch oder blockweise verteilt, mit n = 1 bis 20 und

Z

-SO₃M, -C₂H₄SO₃M, -C₃H₆SO₃M, -P(O)(OM)₂ oder -CH₂-COOM, -C₂H₄-COOM bedeuten.

wherein the substituents independently of one another have the meaning given in the general formulas (BI) and (B.II) and

AO

Alkylenoxideinheiten, ie ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and Butylenglykolethereinheiten, alone or randomly or in blocks distributed, where n = 1 to 20 and

Z

-SO ₃ M, -C ₂ H ₄ SO ₃ M, -C ₃ H ₆ SO ₃ M, -P (O) (OM) ₂ or -CH ₂ -COOM, -C ₂ H ₄ -COOM.

B.V Gemini surfactants of the general formula (B.V)

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander folgende Bedeutung haben:

R¹, R³

C₅- bis C₂₅- Alkyl, verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt, gegebenenfalls bis zu 2-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt;

R²

C₁- bis C₁₂-Alkylen;

M

ein Gegenion wie Alkali, (Alkyl)Ammonium, Alkanolammonium, H oder ½ Erdalkali, wobei die Carbonsäuregruppen auch nur teilweise neutralisiert sein können.

where the substituents independently of one another have the following meanings:

R ¹ , R ³

C ₅ to C ₂₅ alkyl, branched or unbranched, saturated, optionally up to 2-fold non-adjacent unsaturated;

R ²

C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkylene;

M

a counterion such as alkali, (alkyl) ammonium, alkanolammonium, H or ½ alkaline earth, wherein the carboxylic acid groups may also be only partially neutralized.

Variant C: structures based on amide- or amine-containing spacers C.I Gemini surfactants of the general formula (C.I) analogous to EP 0 697 244

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander folgende Bedeutung haben:

R¹

C₅- bis C₂₅-Alkyl, verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt, gegebenenfalls bis zu 2-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt, hydroxysubstituiert oder perfluoriert;

R²

C₁- bis C₁₂-Alkylen oder hydroxysubstituierte Derivate davon;

B

eine Amidgruppe [-C(O)N(R²)- oder -N(R⁵)C(O)-], eine Carboxylgruppe [-C(O)O- oder -OC(O)-], eine Polyethergruppe [-(O(R⁶-O)_x-];

R⁵

für C₁- bis C₄-Alkyl oder hydroxysubstituiertes Alkyl oder H steht;

R⁶

für C₂- bis C₄-Alkylen;

x

eine Zahl von 1 bis 20;

R³

für C₁- bis C₁₂- Alkyl oder hydroxysubstituierte Derivate davon, R⁷-D-R⁷ oder eine Polyethergruppe [-(O(R⁶-O)_x-];

R⁷

für C₁- bis C₆- Alkylen oder hydroxysubstituierte Derivate davon;

D

-O-, -S-, -N(R⁸)- ;

R⁴

Alkylen oder Alkylaryl mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen oder die hydroxysubstituierten Derivaten oder R⁹-D¹-R⁹ ;

R⁸

C₁- bis C₁₂-Alkyl oder hydroxysubstituiertes Alkyl oder H oder R⁹-D¹-R⁹;

R⁹

für C₁- bis C₆- Alkylen oder hydroxysubstituierte Derivate davon oder Aryl;

D¹

-O-, .-S-, -SO₂-, -C(O)-, [-(O(R⁷-O)_x-], (R¹⁰)_t[N(R¹⁰)]_z oder Aryl;

R¹⁰

C₁- bis C₁₂-Alkyl oder hydroxysubstituiertes Alkyl oder H oder Aryl;

t,z

unabhängig voneinander eine Zahl von 1 bis 4 bedeuten und

Y

unabhängig voneinander für -SO₃H, O-SO₃H, -OP(O)(OH)₂, -P(O)(OH)₂, -COOH, -CO₂-C₆H₄-SO₃H und deren Salze davon steht.

where the substituents independently of one another have the following meanings:

R ¹

C ₅ - to C ₂₅ -alkyl, branched or unbranched, saturated, optionally up to twice non-adjacent unsaturated, hydroxy-substituted or perfluorinated;

R ²

C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkylene or hydroxy substituted derivatives thereof;

B

an amide group [-C (O) N (R ² ) - or -N (R ⁵ ) C (O) -], a carboxyl group [-C (O) O- or -OC (O) -], a polyether group [ - (O (R ⁶ -O) _x -];

R ⁵

is C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxy substituted alkyl or H;

R ⁶

for C ₂ - to C ₄ -alkylene;

x

a number from 1 to 20;

R ³

for C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkyl or hydroxy substituted derivatives thereof, R ⁷ -DR ⁷ or a polyether group [- (O (R ⁶ -O) _x -];

R ⁷

for C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene or hydroxy substituted derivatives thereof;

D

-O-, -S-, -N (R ⁸ ) -;

R ⁴

Alkylene or alkylaryl having 1 to 12 carbon atoms or the hydroxy-substituted derivatives or R ⁹ -D ¹ -R ⁹ ;

R ⁸

C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkyl or hydroxy substituted alkyl or H or R ⁹ -D ¹ -R ⁹ ;

R ⁹

for C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene or hydroxy substituted derivatives thereof or aryl;

D ¹

-O-,.-S-, -SO ₂ -, -C (O) -, [- (O (R ⁷ -O) _x -], (R ¹⁰ ) _t [N (R ¹⁰ )] _z or aryl ;

R ¹⁰

C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkyl or hydroxy substituted alkyl or H or aryl;

t, z

independently represent a number from 1 to 4 and

Y

independently of one another for -SO ₃ H, O-SO ₃ H, -OP (O) (OH) ₂ , -P (O) (OH) ₂ , -COOH, -CO ₂ -C ₆ H ₄ -SO ₃ H and the salts of which stands.

C.II Gemini surfactants of the general formula (C.II) analogous to EP 0 697 245

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander die für die allgemeine Formel (C.I) angegebene Bedeutung haben und

R¹¹

C₅- bis C₂₃-Alkyl, verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt, gegebenenfalls bis zu 2-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt, hydroxysubstituiert oder perfluoriert oder R¹⁴-B-R²;

R¹⁴

C₁- bis C₁₂-Alkyl, verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt, gegebenenfalls bis zu 2-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt, oder die hydroxysubstituierten Derivate;

R¹²

C₁- bis C₁₂-Alkylen, verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt, gegebenenfalls bis zu 2-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt, oder die hydroxysubstituierten Derivate oder eine Amidgruppe [-C(O)N(R²)- oder -N(R⁵)C(O)], eine Carboxylgruppe [-C(O)O- oder -OC(O)-], eine Polyethergruppe [(O(R⁶-O)_x-] oder R⁹-D¹-R⁹ und

A

-CR⁶= oder -N= unter der Voraussetzung, daß wenn A gleich -N= ist, R¹¹ gleich R¹⁴-B-R² bedeuten.

wherein the substituents independently of one another have the meaning given for the general formula (CI) and

R ¹¹

C ₅ to C ₂₃ alkyl, branched or unbranched, saturated, optionally up to 2-fold non-adjacent unsaturated, hydroxy-substituted or perfluorinated, or R ¹⁴ -BR ² ;

R ¹⁴

C ₁ to C ₁₂ alkyl, branched or unbranched, saturated, optionally up to 2-fold non-adjacent unsaturated, or the hydroxy-substituted derivatives;

R ¹²

C ₁ - to C ₁₂ -alkylene, branched or unbranched, saturated, optionally up to 2-fold non-adjacent unsaturated, or the hydroxy-substituted derivatives or an amide group [-C (O) N (R ² ) - or -N (R ⁵ ) C (O)], a carboxyl group [-C (O) O- or -OC (O) -], a polyether group [(O (R ⁶ -O) _x -] or R ⁹ -D ¹ -R ⁹ and

A

-CR ⁶ = or -N =, provided that when A is -N =, R ¹¹ is R ¹⁴ -BR ² .

C.III Gemini surfactants of the general formula (C.III) analogous to DE 4227391 and DE 19608117

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander die für die allgemeinen Formeln (C.I) und (C.II) angegebene Bedeutung haben und

R²¹

C₅- bis C₂₃-Alkyl, verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt, gegebenenfalls bis zu 2-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt;

R²², R²⁴

C₁- bis C₆ Alkylen;

R²³

Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl oder eine Polyethergruppe [-(O(R⁶-O)_x-]

bedeuten.

wherein the substituents independently of one another have the meaning given for the general formulas (CI) and (C.II) and

R ²¹

C ₅ to C ₂₃ alkyl, branched or unbranched, saturated, optionally up to 2-fold non-adjacent unsaturated;

R ²² , R ²⁴

C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene;

R ²³

Methyl, ethyl, propyl or a polyether group [- (O (R ⁶ -O) _x -]

mean.

Variant D: D. I gemini surfactants of the general formula (D.I) analogously to US Pat. No. 5,863,886

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander folgende Bedeutung haben:

R, R¹

C₅- bis C₃₀-Alkyl, verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt, gegebenenfalls bis zu 2-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt, hydroxysubstituiert oder perfluoriert;

R²

C₁-bis C₁₀- Alkylen, Arylen und hydroxysubstituierte Derivat, ein Polyether [-O(R⁴O)_x-], -S-, -SO₂-, -O-, -S-S-, -O-R⁵-O- oder ―S-R⁵-S-; Variable für eine direkte Bindung zwischen den beiden α-Kohlenstoffen;

R⁴

C₂- bis C₄-Alkylen;

R⁵

C₁- bis C₁₀-Alkylen, Arylen oder Alkylarylen, -N(R⁶)- oder -(NR⁶)-R^7-(NR⁶)- ;

R⁶

C₁- bis C₆-Alkyl;

R⁷

C₁- bis C₆-Alkyl, wobei R⁷ und R⁶ auch Teil eines heterocyclischen Ringes sein können;

X

Polyether [-O(R⁴O)_x-], wobei x eine Zahl von 1 bis 30 ist, -O-, NZ;

Z

C₁- bis C₁₀- Alkyl, Aryl, Alkylaryl oder H und

Y, Y¹

unabhängig voneinander H, -CH₂-COOH und Salze, ein Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit mindestens 2 Hydroxylgruppen, wie Erythrose, Threose, Ribose, Arabinose, Xylose, Fructose, Lyxose, Allose, Altrose, Glucose, Mannose, Galactose und ihre Mischungen.

where the substituents independently of one another have the following meanings:

R, R ¹

C ₅ - to C ₃₀ -alkyl, branched or unbranched, saturated, optionally up to twice non-adjacent unsaturated, hydroxy-substituted or perfluorinated;

R ²

C _{1 to} C ₁₀ alkylene, arylene and hydroxy substituted derivative, a polyether [-O (R ⁴ O) _x -], -S-, -SO ₂ -, -O-, -SS-, -OR ⁵ -O - or -SR ⁵ -S-; Variable for a direct bond between the two α-carbons;

R ⁴

C ₂ to C ₄ alkylene;

R ⁵

C ₁ to C ₁₀ alkylene, arylene or alkylarylene, -N (R ⁶ ) - or - (NR ⁶ ) -R ^7- (NR ⁶ ) -;

R ⁶

C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl;

R ⁷

C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl, wherein R ⁷ and R ^{6 may} also be part of a heterocyclic ring;

X

Polyether [-O (R ⁴ O) _x -], wherein x is a number from 1 to 30, -O-, NZ;

Z

C ₁ to C ₁₀ alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or H and

Y, Y ¹

independently of one another H, -CH ₂ -COOH and salts, a hydrocarbon radical having at least 2 hydroxyl groups, such as erythrose, threose, ribose, arabinose, xylose, fructose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, galactose and their mixtures.

D.II Gemini surfactants of the general formula (D.II)

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander die für die allgemeine Formel (D.I) angegebene Bedeutung haben und

AO

-C(O)-, -C(O)- [-O(R⁴O)_x-], -CH₂- [-O(R⁴O)_x-], -CH₂-O-;

T, T¹

unabhängig voneinander -OM, -H, -CH₃, -C₂H₅, -SO₃M, -CH₂COOM, -C₂H₄-COOM, -C₃H₆-SO₃M, -O-P(O)(OM)₂ und

M

Alkyli, ½ Erdalkali, Ammonium, Mono-, Di-, Trialkanolammonium oder H bedeuten.

wherein the substituents independently of one another have the meaning given for the general formula (DI) and

AO

-C (O) -, -C (O) - [-O (R ⁴ O) _x -], -CH ₂ - [-O (R ⁴ O) _x -], -CH ₂ -O-;

T, T ¹

independently of one another -OM, -H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ , -SO ₃ M, -CH ₂ COOM, -C ₂ H ₄ -COOM, -C ₃ H ₆ -SO ₃ M, -OP (O ) (OM) ₂ and

M

Alkyli, ½ alkaline earth, ammonium, mono-, di-, trialkanolammonium or H.

D.III Gemini surfactants of the general formula (D.III) analogous to WO 96/16930

wobei die Substituenten unabhängig voneinander die für die allgemeinen Formeln (D.I) und (D.II) angegebene Bedeutung haben und

R⁸

NYY¹, -O(R⁴O)_xH oder -O(R⁴O)_x-C(O)-CHR-CHR¹-C(O)NYY¹ bedeutet.

wherein the substituents independently of one another have the meaning given for the general formulas (DI) and (D.II), and

R ⁸

NYY ¹ , -O (R ⁴ O) _x H or -O (R ⁴ O) _x -C (O) -CHR-CHR ¹ -C (O) NYY ¹ .

D.IV Gemini surfactants of the general formula (D.IV) analogous to WO 96/25384

wobei die Substituenten die für die allgemeinen Formeln (D.I), (D.II) und (D.III) angegebene Bedeutung haben und

t

eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100, bevorzugt 1 bis 20, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 4 bedeutet.

wherein the substituents have the meaning given for the general formulas (DI), (D.II) and (D.III), and

t

an integer from 1 to 100, preferably 1 to 20, particularly preferably 1 to 4 means.

• wasserlösliche Zuckertenside, acylierte Protein-Derivate, Sulfosuccinate, insbesondere Natrium- -Mono- und -Di-alkanol-sulfobernsteinsäureester mit verzweigten oder unverzweigten, gesättigten oder 1 bis 3-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigten Alkylresten im Bereich von C₆ bis C₁₈, oder Acyllactylate, insbesondere Natrium-, Kalium-, Magnesium- oder Calciumsalze der an der Hydroxylgruppe mit linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder 1 bis 3-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigten, cyclischen oder acyclischen Carbonsäuren mit C₆ bis C₂₄ veresterter monomerer Milchsäure oder deren Oligomeren, wobei der Oligomerisierungsgrad der Milchsäure vorzugsweise bei 1,1 bis 10, besonders bevorzugt bei 1,1 bis 4 liegt, oder Alkyl(poly)glucoside mit einem Oligomerisierungsgrad von 1,0 bis 10, vorzugsweise 1 bis 3, und Alkylresten, die verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt oder 1 bis 3-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt, cyclisch oder acylisch sind, und 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatome enthalten, oder Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Mono-, Di- und Trialkanolammonium-, Ammonium-, Mono-, Di-, Trialkylammoniumsalze N-acylierter Aminosäuren, einschließlich ggf. auch teil-N-acylierter Oligo-/Poly-Aminosäuren, wie der Alkylisethionate, die Alkylreste mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffen enthalten und verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt oder 1- bis 3-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt sind, oder Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Mono-, Di- und Trialkanolammonium-, Ammonium-, Mono-, Di-, Trialkylammoniumsalze der Acylsarcosinate, die Alkylreste mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffen enthalten und verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt oder 1- bis 3-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt sind, oder Proteinkondensate mit C₆- bis C₂₄-Acylresten, die verzweigt oder unverzweigt, gesättigt oder 1- bis 3-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt sind, oder Betaine, die Alkylketten mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen enthalten, die verzweigt oder linear, gesättigt oder 1- bis 3-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt sein können. Bei den Betainen sind solche vom Amidoamin-Typ bevorzugt. Acylglutamate mit 6 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Acylkette, die linear oder verzweigt, gesättigt oder 1- bis 3-fach nicht-benachbart ungesättigt sein kann, eignen sich ebenfalls. Besonders bevorzugte weitere Detergenskomponenten für die erfindungsgemäßen Mischungen sind Acyllactylate und Acylglutamate.

The following compounds are preferably used in the surfactant compositions as a detergent component having a poorly foaming, preferably mild, characteristic:

• water-soluble sugar surfactants, acylated protein derivatives, sulfosuccinates, in particular sodium mono- and di-alkanol-sulfosuccinic acid esters with branched or unbranched, saturated or 1-3 non-adjacent unsaturated alkyl radicals in the range of C ₆ to C ₁₈ , or Acyllactylate, in particular sodium, potassium, magnesium or calcium salts of the at the hydroxyl group with linear or branched, saturated or 1 to 3-fold non-adjacent unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic carboxylic acids with C ₆ to C ₂₄ esterified monomeric lactic acid or their oligomers, wherein the degree of oligomerization of the lactic acid is preferably 1.1 to 10, particularly preferably 1.1 to 4, or alkyl (poly) glucosides having a degree of oligomerization of 1.0 to 10, preferably 1 to 3, and alkyl radicals which are branched or unbranched, saturated or 1-3 non-adjacent unsaturated, cyclic or acylic, containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, or alkali, alkaline earth, mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium, ammonium, mono , Di-, Trialkylammoniumsalze N-acylated amino acids, including optionally also partially N-acylated oligo- / poly-amino acids, such as the Alkylisethionate containing alkyl radicals having 6 to 24 carbons and branched or unbranched, saturated or 1 to 3 are non-adjacent unsaturated, or alkali, alkaline earth, mono-, di- and Trialkanolammonium-, ammonium, mono-, di-, trialkylammonium salts of acylsarcosinates containing alkyl radicals having 6 to 24 carbons and branched or unbranched branched, saturated, or 1-3 non-adjacent unsaturated, or protein condensates having C ₆ to C ₂₄ acyl radicals branched or unbranched, saturated, or 1-3 times non-adjacent unsaturated, or betaines, contain the alkyl chains of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, which may be branched or linear, saturated or not monosubstituted to unsaturated 3-fold. In the betaines, amidoamine-type ones are preferred. Acylglutamates having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl chain, which may be linear or branched, saturated or non-adjacent to one to three times unsaturated, are also suitable. Particularly preferred further detergent components for the mixtures according to the invention are acyl lactylates and acyl glutamates.

Mild in the sense of the invention means that the corresponding compounds / compositions are free of labeling (for example according to Directive 67-548-EEC, Hazardous Substances Ordinance) with respect to their irritation potential for skin and eyes.

For the purposes of the invention, the "poor foaming characteristic" property means that these surfactants, in their capacity as further detergent component, fall short of two of the three values listed below in the evaluation of their foaming behavior.

• die Schaumlamellendicke in mm direkt nach der Schaumherstellung,
• der Blasenzahl pro Bildfläche bei 100facher Vergrößerung direkt nach der Herstellung, beide durch die Mikroskopie des Schaumes bestimmt, und
• das Anschäumverhalten im Handversuch.

The criteria are

• the foam lamella thickness in mm directly after foam production,
• the number of bubbles per image area at 100x magnification directly after production, both determined by the microscopy of the foam, and
• the foaming behavior in the hand test.

For the purposes of the invention, the "poor foaming characteristic" property means that these surfactants, in their capacity as further detergent components, fall short of two of the three values listed below in the evaluation of their foaming behavior.

• Schaumlamellendicke in mm direkt nach der Schaumherstellung,
• der Blasenzahl pro Bildfläche bei 100facher Vergrößerung direkt nach der Herstellung, beide durch die Mikroskopie des Schaumes bestimmt, und
• das Anschäumverhalten im Handversuch.

The criteria are the

• Foam lamella thickness in mm directly after foam production,
• the number of bubbles per image area at 100x magnification directly after production, both determined by the microscopy of the foam, and
• the foaming behavior in the hand test.

Carrying out the experiment to determine the property "with poor foaming characteristics":

8% by weight of the surfactant to be characterized are dissolved in demineralized water. The surfactant solution to be examined is 10 min. stirred at 1500 rev / min with apparatus with blade stirrer according to Figure 2/3 to 4/4, wherein the solution is slightly heated (from room temperature to about 35 ° C). After stirring for 10 minutes, the resulting foam is skimmed off from above and subjected to direct microscopy - in this case the lamella thickness is measured in mm and the number of foam bubbles in the image section is determined.

In addition to the foaming quality generated by stirring, the foaming behavior of a surfactant under flowing cold tap water is also assessed. For this purpose, 2 g of surfactant are distributed on the palm of your hand and rubbed evenly under running water. The foam quality is assessed in four stages, 0 = no foaming, 1 = moderate foaming, 2 = good foaming and 3 = very good foaming.

• Lamellendicken kleiner oder gleich 16 mm aufweisen oder
• kleiner oder gleich 16 Blasen im Bildausschnitt aufweisen oder
• im Anschäumverhalten mit 1 oder schlechter beurteilt werden.

Surfactants are considered to be poorly foaming if they fall below the limits of at least two of the three criteria listed below, ie

• Have lamella thicknesses of less than or equal to 16 mm or
• have less than or equal to 16 bubbles in the image section or
• be judged in the foaming with 1 or worse.

Surfactants are judged to be good foaming if they have all three criteria with values of ≥ 20 mm in the lamella thickness, ≥ 20 bubbles in the image section (both directly after foaming) and a foaming behavior rated 3.

The method used for foam production is shown schematically in FIGS. 2 to 4. The drawing shows schematically in Fig. 2 the blade stirrer used for foam production, in Fig. 3 the experimental setup for foam production - each with the size in cm, where H is the height of the unfoamed solution -, and in Fig. 4 the state after foaming at a peripheral speed of Blattrührers of 5 m / sec. (S = foam, D = detergent solution). After stirring for 10 minutes, the resulting foam was skimmed off from above and microscopically examined both directly and after 2, 5 and 15 minutes. The following experimental setup was chosen for all investigations in order to evaluate the influence of the surfactant mixtures on the foaming behavior:

The process for producing foam is also described in German Patent Application 199 43 681, the disclosure of which is hereby also made the subject of this application.

• Alkylsarcosinate, Alkanolethersulfate, Alkanolsulfate, Alkyltaurate und -isethionate, Sulfobetaine, Olefinsulfonate, Ethercarbonsäuren und deren Salze sowie Alkanolphosphorsäureester und deren Salze, wobei die Alkylketten 8 bis 22 C-Atome enthalten.

As electrolyte-stable anionic surfactants , the following compounds are particularly suitable for the pearlescent concentrate according to the invention:

• Alkyl sarcosinates, alkanol ether sulfates, alkanol sulfates, alkyl taurates and isethionates, sulfobetaines, olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, and alkanol phosphoric acid esters and their salts, the alkyl chains containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

• Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und / oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Alkylalkohole mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und an Mono-, Di- und Triglyceride. C12- bis C18-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin, Sorbitanmono- und -diester von gesättigen und ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen und deren Ethylenoxidanlagerungsprodukten, Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen im Alkylrest und deren ethoxylierte Analoga. Anlagerungsproducte von 2 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und / oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl, Polyol- und Polyglycerinester, wie z.B. Polyglycerinpolyricinoleat, Polyglcerindimerate oder Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat und Gemische dieser Substanzklassen. Partialester auf Basis linearer, verzweigter, ungesättigter bzw. gesättigter C6- bis C22-Fettsäuren, Ricinolsäure sowie 12-Hydroxystearinsäure und Glycerin, Polyglycerin, Pentaerythrit, Dipentaerythrit, Zuckeralkohole (z.B. Sobit), Alkylglucoside sowie Polyglucoside (z.B. Cellulose). Trialkylphosphate sowie Mono-, Di- und / oder Tri-PEG-alkylphosphate, Wollwachsalkohole, Polysiloxan-Polyalkyl-Copolymere bzw. entsprechender Derivate. Mischester aus Pentaerythrit, Fettsäuren, Citronensäure und Fettalkohol und / oder Mischester von Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Methylglucose und Polyolen, vozugsweise Glycerin sowie Polyalkylenglykole.

The following nonionic surfactants are particularly suitable for the preparation of the pearlescent concentrates according to the invention:

• Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear alkyl alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and on Mono-, di- and triglycerides. C12 to C18 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol, sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 6 to 22 C atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogues. Addition products of 2 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, polyol and polyglycerol esters, such as Polyglycerinpolyricinoleat, Polyglcerindimerate or Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearate and mixtures of these classes. Partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6- to C22-fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, Pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg, Sobit), alkylglucosides, and polyglucosides (eg, cellulose). Trialkylphosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates, wool wax alcohols, polysiloxane-polyalkyl copolymers or corresponding derivatives. Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol and polyalkylene glycols.

Particularly preferred are alcohol ethoxylates having 6 to 13 carbon atoms and 4 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide, e.g. MARLIPAL® O13 / 120, Laureth-9 or MARLIPAL® 1012/6, and other nonionic surfactants with comparable HLB and a molecular weight <800 g / mol.

• Metallseifen von C12- bis C22-Fettsäuren, z.B. Magnesiumstearat, Mg-, Zn-, Cu- Al- oder Ti-Salze in Kombination mit einer vorgenannten Fettsäure, C12- bis C22-Fettsäuren, langkettige Alkylalkohole mit 18 bis 36 C-Atomen, Alkylalkoholether aus C8- bis C22-Alkylalkoholen, Fettketone mit insgesamt mindestens 18 C-Atomen, Alkanolamide auf der Basis von C10- bis C22-Carbonsäuren und Monoethanolamin, Mono- oder Diester von Glycerin oder Ethylenglykol oder 1,2-Propylenglykol, Butylenglykol, Hexylenglykol und / oder Polyethylenglykol mit einem durchschnittlichen Molekulargewicht von 80 bis 1.000 g / Mol und C12- bis C36-Carbonsäuren. Bevorzugt sind Mono-bis Triethylenglykol-mono- und -distearate, ganz besonders geeignet sind die Monostearate des Mono-, Di- und Triethylenglykols.

As pearlescing component in the pearlescent concentrate according to the invention, the following compounds are particularly suitable:

• Metal soaps of C12 to C22 fatty acids, for example magnesium stearate, Mg, Zn, CuAl or Ti salts in combination with one of the abovementioned fatty acids, C12 to C22 fatty acids, long-chain alkyl alcohols having 18 to 36 carbon atoms, Alkyl alcohol ethers of C8- to C22-alkyl alcohols, fatty ketones having a total of at least 18 carbon atoms, alkanolamides based on C10- to C22-carboxylic acids and monoethanolamine, mono- or diesters of glycerol or ethylene glycol or 1,2-propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 80 to 1,000 g / mol and C12 to C36 carboxylic acids. Preference is given to mono- to triethylene glycol mono- and distearates, very particularly suitable are the monostearates of mono-, di- and triethylene glycol.

The active substances according to the invention are substances which are particularly sensitive to reduction or oxidation, substances which are particularly sparingly soluble in water and oil or substances which are particularly sensitive to hydrolysis or surfactants. Particularly suitable here are antioxidants, vitamins (especially tocopherol, retinol) and their derivatives, especially their esters, enzymes, proteins and pheromones. In addition, substances which due to their acidity can cause problems in the formulation, such as α-hydroxy acids, are also suitable. In addition, organic UV absorbers, skin tanning agents, eg dihydroxyacetone, odorous substances, for example for perfuming or insect repellent, such as especially thiols, ternary or cyclic amines, natural essences whose insect repellent effect is known, for example citric or orange terpene, neem oil extract or insect repellent pheromones suitable for inclusion in the pearlescent concentrate. Also suitable are essential oils, flavorings or dyes.

If the combination gemini surfactant / poor foaming detergent component is dispensed with, it may be necessary in the case of insufficient stability of the active ingredients to add agents for stabilizing the lamellar layers (stabilizers) . Particularly suitable here are cholesterol and its derivatives as well as phytosterols and their derivatives as well as saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in particular C 12 to C 22 fatty acids. Furthermore, the following hydrophilic compounds can be used in both cases as a stabilizer, wherein said compounds additionally ensure better flowability of the compositions of the invention: glycerol or ethylene glycol or 1,2-propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and / or polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 80 bis 1,000 g / mol.

production:

The pearlescent concentrates according to the invention can be prepared by mixing the components (A), (B), (C), (D) and (E) at 20 to 80 ° C, preferably at 40 to 50 ° C, and at 30 to 80 ° C, preferably at 40 to 50 ° C water is added. The pearlescent effect sets in at 25 to 30 ° C and is stable at temperatures up to 60 ° C. The finished pearlescent concentrate can be mixed with the application formulation at room temperature.

The pearlescence is assessed on a scale of 1 = brilliant to 5 = blunt, using the microscope is tested for existing crystals (0 = no crystals, 1 = crystals visible). In addition, it is checked whether the stretched multilamellar layers of water or a surfactant frequently used in the application formulations (alcohol ether sulfates, Cocoamidopropylbetain) are dissolved or dissolved (1 = yes, 0 = no).

The temperature-dependent viscosity of the concentrates is determined to check the temperature stability of the concentrates.

Examples of pearlescent concentrates according to the invention are the following table compositions: [CTFA INCI] formulation A [weight%] B [weight%] PEG-3 stearates 10 10 Laureth-9 18 0 Isotrideceth-13 0 18 Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium, Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate (Geminitensid - Diamide ether sulfate) (CERALUTION® F) 10 10 PEG-400 8th 8th Aqua 54 54 [CTFA INCI] formulation C [weight%] D [% by weight] Glycol stearate 10 10 Laureth-9 18 0 Isotrideceth-13 0 18 Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate (Gemini surfactant - Diamide Ether Sulfate) 10 10 PEG-400 8th 8th Aqua 54 54 [CTFA INCI] formulation E [% by weight] F [weight%] PEG-3 stearates 10 10 Laureth-9 18 0 Isotrideceth-13 0 18 Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate (Gemini surfactant - Diamide Ether Sulfate) 10 10 PEG-400 8th 8th Aqua 53 53 tocopherol 1.0 0 retinol 0 1.0 [CTFA INCI] formulation G [weight%] PEG-3 stearates 10 Laureth-9 20 Isotrideceth-13 0 Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate (Gemini surfactant - diamided ether sulfate) 10 PEG-400 8th Aqua 49 Ascorbyl dipalmitate 3

The ability of the compositions of the invention to effectively encapsulate active agents can be e.g. can be detected by the pH during storage of the formulation G and in each case the same amount of ascorbyl dipalmitate in water (see diagram 1/1). The significant drop in pH indicates the hydrolysis of the ascorbyl dipalmitate. If this ester is encapsulated as in Formulation G, there is no significant hydrolysis.

Claims (8)

1. Surfactant composition comprising an aqueous, flowable pearly luster concentrate in a concentration of 0.5 to 10 % by weight, wherein the pearly luster concentrate comprises

   (A) 5 to 30 % by weight of an anionic surfactant component consisting of

   (A1) one or more anionic gemini surfactants and one or more anionic detergent components having a poor-foaming characteristic and/or

   (A2) one or more electrolyte-stable anionic surfactants,

   (B) 5 to 30 % by weight of one or more non-ionic surfactants, and

   (C) 5 to 30 % by weight of one or more pearl luster giving components, and optionally, one or both of the following components:

   (D) 0 to 50 % by weight of one or more active substances, and

   (E) 0 to 20 % by weight of one or more stabilisers to stabilize the lamellar layers each related to the pearly luster concentrate,

   
   wherein the gemini surfactants are surface active compounds consisting of at least two surfactant units, namely out of a hydrophilic head group and hydrophobic group, linked with each other by at least one spacer near the head group.
2. The surfactant composition according to claim 1 comprising the pearly luster concentrate with (D) one or more active substances.
3. The surfactant composition according to claim 1 comprising 0.1 to 10 % by weight, related to the pearly luster concentrate, of component (D).
4. The surfactant composition according to any of claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the surfactant composition comprises multilamellar, liquid-crystalline layers.
5. The surfactant composition according to any of claims 1 to 3 wherein component (A) consists solely of (A1) one or more anionic gemini surfactants and one or more anionic detergent components having a poor-foaming characteristic.
6. Use of an aqueous, flowable pearly luster concentrate comprising an anionic surfactant component consisting of

   (A1) one or more anionic gemini surfactants and one or more anionic detergent components having a poor-foaming characteristic and/or

   (A2) one or more electrolyte-stable anionic surfactants,

   (B) one or more non-ionic surfactants, and

   (C) one or more pearl luster giving components, and

   (D) one or more active substances,
   and optionally

   (E) one or more stabilisers,

   
   wherein the gemini surfactants are surface active compounds consisting of at least two surfactant units, namely out of a hydrophilic head group and hydrophobic group, linked with each other by at least one spacer near the head group,
   for the manufacture of a surfactant composition comprising an aqueous, flowable pearly luster concentrate in a concentration of 0.1 to 75 % by weight, wherein in the surfactant composition the active substance is encapsulated in the pearl luster and the pearly luster concentrate forms multilamellar liquid crystal layers.
7. Use of an aqueous, flowable pearly luster concentrate according to claim 6 wherein the component (A) consists solely of (A1) one or more anionic gemini surfactants and one or more anionic detergent components having a poor-foaming characteristic.
8. Use of an aqueous, flowable pearly luster concentrate according to claim 6, wherein the surfactant composition comprises the pearly luster concentrate in a concentration of 0.5 to 10 % by weight.

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